The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, March 21, 1897, Page 24

THE SAN FRANCISCO dALI!. SUNDAY, MARCH 21, 1897. D et e BIC costumes always provide us| .l~i S with ideas if we will but try to critic- | ally analyze their indescribable | charms, even if we cannot have them re-l produced. in equally elegant materials. Among numerous con fections there has of | late been made a lovely skirt of the palest | shade of Nile green, and with it goes a bodice of green crepe, which has a high corselet that decreases in width in the cen- ter of the waist in front, and is of mauve | velvet. The low bodice is edged with | mauve velvet, covered with lace attached with diamond ornaments. Fine lace is used for epaulets. Quite effective is & gown of pale rose pink brocede. The bodice is exquisitely cut, and down one side extend undulating revers ©f the finest Alencon, and it al-| most entirely composes the dainty sleeves. Truly delightful we must ail admit isan embroidered crepe of a delicate shell pinks | inserted with motifs of lace embroidered in silver. This silvered lace forms the en- tire bodice, attached at the back and in | front with three straps of black velvet in | the shape of a calice. The train is of maize velvet of just the tome to blend | with the delicious pink. Black feathers | were worn in the hair. The same pretty woman owns a black | crepe de chine of the most superior qual- ity. Itis closely embroidered in jet and is handled so as to conveya clinging | effect, and 1s made over a royal purple | foundation. | A white toilette I greatly admire has a | bolero of real Irish point lined with pink. | Irish point is 1n great demand at present, | especially for boleros, and when lined | with a soft-colored silk or satin lining the | result is exceilent. Doubtless many such | for example, those who have made their social entree for three, four or even five winters in succession may indulge in black, but the dear, fresh, starry-eyed, golden-haired fairies should wear only the most delicate of hues—inceed, I con- sider them most lovely when in pure white. Another handsome toilet reverses the contrast, as the principal part is of polka- dot brocaded satin, with light pink em- broidery on the panels. A debutante’s frock at the same dinner carried out the contrast well, as the dress, of light-biue China silk, was crossed by rows of dark- | blue ribbon, as was also the vest, two pan- els of the skirt and the wide girdle. The bodice was held together with dark silk cord in the old-fashioned way, so becom- ing to slight graceful figures. Emerald Hues. Green promises to continue in high favor, and lately a leader of fashion wore an exquisite dinner gown of two shades of green. The front petticoatand vest of the bodice were of seafoam green, embroid- erea with ferns of the dark natural green tones. . The remainder of the dress at the back and sweeping train were of the dark | green in glistening satin. Thelong sleeves and low neck: were finished in artistic bands of the seafoam green, embroidered in the natural ferns. The Children Look like lictle angels in the delicious dainty frocks many a mother has had fashioned at home under her own watch- ful eye. On’ these wee garments many yards of narrow lace are being used, so numerous are the frills they must edge, and when combined with narrow satin 1. Dress fora le maid of 11 or 12, of shrimp-pink silk poplin and ecru lace. The skirt 18 gathered to the waist and trimmed with several Tows of insertion. The blouse waist 18 | trimmed with lace to simulate a bolero. The closing is among pleats at the back. 2. Bridal toilette of satin, mousseline de sofe and lace. pleatings of silk muslin headed by bouguets muslin is partly covered by a silk blouse. and have lace epaulettes. The skirt opens in frout upon of orange flowers. The corsage of pleated nilk The satin sleeves are draped with the mousseline The wide draped belt and collar are of the satin. boleros will be seen in connection with. our spring bodices. "The Redingote. | In Paris much is being said about a | certain redingote seen not many moons | ago—heliotrope cloth covered with a de- | sign in biack velvet apolications, edged | with chinchilla, with a waistcoat of white guipure and a waist ribbon of mauve satin fastened with two large diamond buttons. Dinner gowrs are topics of unfailing in- | terest, as all who are in the social world | are at times either preparing, mentally. some charming confection or are consi ering their dressmaker’s latest sugges- | tions. For the moment light ard dark | contrasts in the same dress are considered smarl. One such is of an old-rose brocade, the center panel of the ekirt and waist being of striped satin in faint pink with suggestions of green. The strives run crosswise and give the desired effect of plumpness, which is increased by a jaunty Tolero jacket heavily embroidered in pink and pearl passementerie. Felix has just completed a dress in mauve taffeta, striped down the tablier and festooned round the hips with lovers’ knots wrought with spangled embroidery, which also edges the skirt and outlines the diagonal drapery of the bodice. Left side of corsage cleverly rucked with white tulle like' the sbort balloon sleeves and detached train, which is finisbed off with a treble row of thick ruches. Garniture of tea roses and huge loops of satin rib- bon. A Kentucky . Belie. The lovely Miss Alice Castleman ap- peared at the charity ball in New York in a black creation, a little yellow about her low-cut corsage being the only touch of color about her ‘otherwise somber gown, but the black formed an. admirable set- ting for Miss Castleman’s blonde loveli- ness. On this, her first appegrance, her beaaty created a profound tensation, and one of the daily papers sent a special cor- respondent down to see her in her own environment, and the frontispiece of the next Sunday’s edition was adorned by her classic features and a page was devoted to the interview with her. Miss Castleman’s beauty deserves the meed of praise it is receivinz, for seldom does one find more perfect face and more perfect figure united in one person. Her appearance might be described as fanlt- lessly fauitless. In her Kentucky shows once a-ain that her fame for fair women is well deserved. 4 Ido not know the age of this new belle, debutantes. As paradoxical as it may seem, all debutantes are not youthful; but as a rule black is far to old for young } ribbons the results are charming. White is the most satisfactory always, as it washes so well, but green and pink are both good colors. Mothers should always endeavor to have such dresses made in as childish a manner as possible, for tnerein lies their great charm. However, Ameri- | er return from her daily drive, dark can mothers excel all others in the beauti- ful dressing of their children. For wear with their little summer frocks are being shown in New York jackets of fine light-weight broadcloth, stitched in five rows of white sili thread on the re- vers and around the hem. The sleeves These maidens are ali between 15 and 17, and they leave a lock of their natural hair at a wigmaker's, with instructions 1o somewhat match it by shades of gray hair, not at first t0o far removed from the origi- nal color. A toupee affair is purchased to Thess fans are made in solid gold and’ silver and painted in oils. One recently finished was a Millet. The home.of the present Millet, where -**The Angelus” was painted, appeared on one stick; another depicted the noted field; another the dis- tant church, the old woman, and so on. The final stick contained a portrait of Millet. Mother of pearl picked out with gold is also a favorite mounting. For Evening Wear. For practical gowns the white grena- dines, thickly covered with spots the size of a peain silk of some bright color, promise to beliked almost as well as those woven to resemble lace,—those that are dotted on the tussore grenadines with bright checks thrown over them, or the gayly colored grounds covered with a white net, as if coarse lace had been placed over them, Numerous are the grenadines and that canvas of all sorts and kinds will be worn, Last summer only one of our le ad- ing houses importsd the heavy, coarsely woven variety, so fashionable East. In appearance it isnot unlike a handsome cloth and in color, the regnlar Holland. It can only be made up successfully by a first-class tailor, but when completed, un- der such circumstances, no more stylish gown for evening or afternoon wear could be desired, but of course it will not be in- expensive. The same fabric is being ex- tensively orcered by many leading mer- chants for their summer trade. There is nothing more novel than the mousselines de soie painted in pale colors, in. imitation of old brocades. Dresses made out of these gauzy stuffs are trimmed with flounces cut bias, alternated with lace. The bodices are adorned in the same way and finished at the waist with wide pleated bands of a bright color in a mirror velvet of a strongly contrast- ing shade, with three rhinestone buckles be worn a la false bangs. The gray hairs bareges with black effects in color that ATS THAT WILL BE upon one side. IN VOGUE THIS SEASON. have six small white pearl buttons on each of them. Tea dJackets. When you have an accumulation of remnants and do not know exactly what to have the home dressmaker work on, allow me to suggest that many a fascinat- 1ng tea jacket has been evolved under just such circumstances. “One of the prettiest lately seen wasa piak brocade with a pink chiffon front, baving quite a narrow basque, all sewn at the edge with pearls, a strip of white satin descending from the shoulder to the bust, on erther side edged with pearls, and the puff to the top of the sleeve having the same strappings carried down at intervals. Next to pink in favor comes dark green, and for quiet tea jackets worn in London, where the hostess receives her friends on green chiffon bodices with red and green shot ruffled sleeves and a pleated bolero are very fashionableindeed. Thesesleeves are continued over the band in points, with a deep ruffle at the wrist and a roll collar of red satin supplemented by lace.” No longer are dainty women content with the regulation bed jackets of flannel or of embroid red Japanese silk. Instead they have chic littie affairs of silk and maull, or silk in combinatien with either chifton or mousseline de sole. These gar- ments are lined witha very lightwelght flannel or with nun’s veiling. Many are made up during this Lenten season that would serve as models of elegance. By these trivial things the naturally refined woman shows her taste. MARCELLA. Mrs. Abner McKinley, while visiting New York just before the inauguration, purchased a handsome empire cloak of & brocaded velvet that shades from crimson to violet. The colors blend perfectly, and scattered over it are mest gorgeous chrys- anthemums. At the bottom is a valance of vioiet velvet, and up the front isa grad- uated velvet ruffle, with an inner one of black chiffon. The high collar of violet velvet bas an inner one of point lace, and the entire garment is lined with violet satin, i Our Hair Must now he worn waved behind and fastened up straight—not twisted—*with a comb that goes across the back of the heall, and is just seen below the edge of the hat. Then the hair is made into & loose twist just at the top of the head.” ‘The bow coiffure is well liked and rather becoming. For it the hair is tied in a smooth bow quite high on the head and finished with a looped coil which is just visible in front. A large number of New York girls have an absurd fad for gray hair, their 1dea be- ing to try and appear very intellectual. are carefully intertwined with the dark locks, and one is perfectly up to date. Spring Costume. One of the newest is composed of a dark blue and white shepherd’s plaid. The bodice has a wide pleat, both back and front, which narrows toward the belt. The skirt is plain, with a wide pleat in front, which spreads out wider at the front and is fastened down just behind the waist line. There are a few white pear] buttons on the front pleat in the bodice about the bust, and dark blue surah forms the belt and collar. Gloves. For wear with tailor dresses only heavy dogskin gloves are correct, and for calling all delicate shades of suede that will har- monize with the gown are worn. For teas and receptions in the day time some still prefer white glace kids, black stitched, with four-buttons. However, they are no longer 1n demand, and for the evening white or light-colored suede are liked. White and €old. To have an artistic table is the aim of every hostess, and nothing can be prettier than a white ana gola dinner; besides, it is easily arranged. Golden-lined flowers and ribbons of satin that match can read- ily be placed on a bandsome damask cloth with delightful results, cut glass and sil- ver assisting the effect. The ices, punch, icings of the cakes and bonbons must all be of the same hue, as well as the shades of the lamps. If the hostess has golden hair and wears a white and yellow gown the results can be imagined. About Fans. Strange is it not that but comparatively few women have ever devoted themselves to fan-painting with the smallest degree of success? It is so truly a feminine occupation—the painting and mounting—that one should imagine that women would excel in it. However, such is not the case, and one of the most beantiful fans ever seen is the work of F. Houghton, the renowned Eng- lish fan-paiuter. The center delights the eve.by the most charming representation of the minuet. This gem is surrounded by a frame of delicate Honiton lace, the production of a clever worker and draugbtsman. In this design are com- bined the rose, thistle and shamrock, sur- rounded by an appropriate border. The mountings are of tortoise shell. Point de gaze is the favorite lace at vresent for rare fans, and this exquisite cobweb texture is fancifully shaped to either surround or interlace singie, double or treble medallions in kid or crepe, these being enriched with rare paintings. Beautiful empire fans are being shown. “show a tendency to chine patterns in the grounds, and some of the patterns in the grenadines recall quilting.” But newer than any of these are the semi-transparent materials intended for flouncings that show an interwoven bor- der, says an authority. *“‘Alarge range of bareges are thus bordered, and plain col- ored voiles with silk borders, some of a two-inch solld stripe, others about four inches deep, formed of a narrow stripe in peach and white, cerise and white, brown and blue and other colorings, and ocea- sionally graduated. Some of the latest tweeds also display such borders. “Printing has been applied to grena- dines, both as checked and florally, and there are many varieties uf crepe de chine, which, to be fashionable, must be dall, with no luster.” Some of the quaintest of the bareges of the most expensive varie- ties are covered with a twisted scroll formed of upstanding loops like bath toweling. Those considered stylish twenty or thirty years ago are again en- joying a great vogue. Occasionally these display a pattern that looks as though it was brocaded, produced in what seerus to be a bubble of siik, and it partakes of the natare of matelasse. The smaller pat- terns are often thrown on a check ground. Shepherds’ plaids will be much worn, and are seen in silk, in wool and in mix- tures that combine the two. In the fancy grenadines we will shortly observe a considerable variety of small- lined checks in relief—“generally black— and silk on'a wool foundation. The most effective are black checks on grass-green and blue on green. The fawn-checked grenadines of biack pattern are sure to be worn with an admixture of scariet in the togue or bonnet." You will be surprised at the great beauty of the grass lawns and all kindred weaves; some will have bhorizontal stripes of Valenciennes lace, interwoven on s colored stripe, stc.. as a Holland tinted ground, a bright green stripe, subdued with a row of creamy lace. Blendings are to be had in peach color, bright pink and pale blue. No more delightful stuffs have we seen for many a longday, and besides their manifest attractions they wear well and have safficient body not to become limp like rags, and do not crease readily. The diversity of the checks on grass lawn groands is so great that every one will be fully satisfied, and the colors that are found in combination are seldom inartis- tic. Forexample, in one case, fawn, brown, green and red figured with excellent re- sults. The intermixture of a tinsel thread in woolen goods this winter was so much liked that in several of the mixed woolens just uncased, this idea is again carried out successfully. I must not forget to add Radical Changes Are to be noted in al! spring gowns, and the most noticable are those recently made in our skirts. Such changea I have long predicted, but now they are an estab- lished fact. The other day it was a nar- yoke with the jetted lace, letting the lace. ran down 1n points at intervals all round to break the effect of a straight line. Make ‘the blouse with a yoke and cover the yoke and the top of the sleeves with the lace. But perhaps the greatest mnrve'l the times have perfected 1s the loose jacket that in the beginning was flowing and wide, and is now metamorphosed by the chic tailors into an effect of slimness and length. This jacket is the principal ele- ment in the serge gowns and the bicycle dress for spring. Itis drawn asclose to the figure as keeping it straight will allow, for it must not curve in anywhere, an ap- parent cortradiction that gives rise to an entirely new effect. M ARCELLA. A Lassie’s Way. 0, down in the meadow the air was sweet ‘with a breath of blooming clover. The blue-eyed grasses were kissing her feet And an azare sky bent over; But Mary’s heart had a burden of woe, A burden she sought to cover With a smile axd song, lest the world should know She had loved and lost, her lover. Each daisy was nodding her snowy head, And a zephyr stirred the grasses. Sir bobolink, saucily laughing, said: “'Tis ever the way with lassies, They think that a g iarrel when once begun Can be as easily ended; But Iaddies are lost, a3 Sometimes when ’tis least intended.” But down through the meadow young Arthur ctme And the laughing skies bent over; The zepnyrs whispered & maiden’s name And s tremor stirred toe clover. Though he spoxe no word, yet he kissed her brow In spite of the chiding grasses, And bobolink whistied: ‘“Just see her Dow, 'Tis ever the way with lassies.” —The Peterson Magazine. e Thought the Judge Hospitable. At the Durham (England) Assizes an action was tried which wasbraught by one neighbor against another for a trifling matter, The plaintiff was a very deaf old lady, and after a little while the Judge sug- gested that counsel should get his client to compromise it, and ask her what she would take to settle it. The counsel shouted out very loud to his client: «His lordship wants to know what you will take?” - She at once said: back, fron becoming flaring collar. Elegant velvet sack coat with three godets in the back. Fine jet embroidery decorates the lar and sleeves. A ribbon ruche edges the fronts and fills the inside of the row skirt, covered with flounces; now it is countless pleats or innumerable godets, that fall over an underskirt, not of silk, but of flannel, and so drag and cling with siren grace. These novelties need not trouble the dressmakers much until after Easier, as they arentended for thin mete- rials; nevertheless here isa model. The materials are gray surah, shot with black and black jetted lace or passementerie. Make a black-llning skirt and cover the top smoothly with the surah; to this add a plaited skirt of the surah, sewing it on some five orsix inchesdown from the top s0 as to leave a yoke. Cover the THE ATTIRE IN WHICH THE U There will be neither frills nor furbelows this season about the well-groomed, easy-going American man of business, who has respect, but not veneration, for Dame Fashion, and who pays his tailor, his haberdasher and his shoemaker to see that he is attired in accordance with her | reasonable edicts. The ultra may go to extremes this springtide as they do every son, but the man who regards his attire from the same point of view that he regards his daily bath will dress this year comfort- ably and as becomes a man of business. 1f he be of solid and athletic mold the fashion in dress that will prevail will suit him all the better. The fashions for every day men this season do not approach rakishness, but provide for & comtortable looking and feel- ing attire, Bcotch goods will be “‘the thing” this HATS, CUFFS, COLLARS, SHIRTS AND TIES THAT spring for material for suits for every-day wear. Softly finished goods that always make a man lnok well will be the fashion. Hard-finished stuffs—diagonals and all their kind—will find a poor market this year. Even for semi-full dress soft ma- terials will pe used. b While the square-cut sack, which has been so popular, will lose 1its prestige it will still be in vogue. But the cutaway sack has usurped its place as the cut for coats in the estimation of the man of busi- ness who dresses well. The neatest thing shown by San Fran- cisco tailors for wear durfng the present season is & four-button cutaway sack of solid colored Scotch tweed. The ‘‘cuta- way” is slight, practically being but the rounding of the corners of the coat. The lapels are rolled back from the collar to reveal a double-breasted vest that is cut V-shaped in front. This innovation in; P-TO-DATE MAN OF the vest was brought about by wise men who finally succeeded in convincing tailors that decollete waistcoats and flaring shirt bosoms could scarcely be considered the proper thing for men of business to wear during the hours they were at work. The trousers are made of the same material as the coat and vest, and they are cat much in the same fashion as those of last season, except in the bottom of the legs, which are cut narrower, and in this the only objection to this otherwise per- fect business suit is found. Straight-cut trousers with a slight “spring’’ at the bottom will always be the most popular with business men. A three-button cutawsy sack, made on the same style, with a wider flare at the corners, will also be jn vogue, but it does not deserve to be—and probably will not be—as popular as the four-button sack. In hats the style will run to derbys, with WILL BE a slight concession in favor of soft outing Feoras. 'The derbys which will be prin- cipuily worn this year will have s round crown of medium height and an almost straight brim. They can be of ‘black or a light brown to suit the taste of the wearer. A hat with the same crown but with slightly turned brims will also be con- sidered good form. The semi-plug, big- crowned, square-cut hat, which has been worn a, little during the winter, wiil be relgated to oblivion, where it belongs. It is a monstrosity which should never have been perpetrated upon the public. In accordance with the soft Scotch suits they will wear, well-dressed men will don loosely-fltting shirts in Madras, per- cale, French flannel and China crepe. The bosoms of these will be printed mostly in checks, but stripes have not been altogether tabooed. The cuffs should match the shirt, BUSINESS WILL NOW BE SEEN. The correct collar to wear with this dress is one moderately high and - turned down. Itshould be encircled by a plain *‘Club’’ bow. Forsemi-dress a straight high col- lar should be worn and the cravat should be an imperial. There is no need to write about fashions in male undergarments. There are people who wear hand-painted silk socks that cost $50 a pair and silk underwear that costs $100 a suit, but the solid-going, every- day business man will continue to wear well-made lisle thread hose in black or tan and underclothing of the same ma: terial, orof wool, in their original colors. A man who wishes to dress according to this fashion can purchase a suit of clothes for $40, n1s hats for $4 or $5 each, his shirts for $150, his collars for 20 and 25 cents each, his neckties for 75 cents and $1, his underwear for $1 a garment and his socks for 50 cents a pair. “I thank his lordship kindly, and, if it’s no ill convenience to him, I'll take a little whisky warm.”—Tit-Bits. —_————— The average value of each of the wax figares at Madame Tussaud’s exhibition in London is said to be over £50. XEW TO-DAY] Imperial Hair Regenerator will make the hair beauti- tul, glossy and natural, no matter how Streaky, BL. ACHED or GRAY i} ff may be. It is clean, odorless, last- ing. Itdoesnotcontain an atom of poisonous matter. Baths' do not aftect it, neither does curling of crimping. Incomparable § for the B= ARD ou account of its durability and clean- liness. No. 1, Black. No. 2, Dark 0. 5, Light Chestnut. No. 6, Gold Blon Price $1 50 and 3 00, Sole Manufacturers and Patentees: rial Chemical Mfg. Co., 202 Fifth a - orl;llacl‘ty Dr‘;{ah“fl‘nd .l‘i t‘:drulelm n Francisco sold and applied by Stas Strozynski and Goldstein & Gohn. + You Are Aware That James M. Moran & Co., 1009-1015 Market street, near Sixth, bet. Sixth and Seventh, are offering the finest values in Ladies’, Gents’ and Children’s Underwear and Hosiery in all this big city? Gents’ Black and White Striped Overshirts sold for soc you can get at Moran’s for 25¢; also soc White La.undered Dress Shirts for 25¢. Give them a trim{. Inspect their goods. It will pay you. LAWREACE SYSTEM, PATIERNS. 1231 MARKET " ST. and 126 O'Farrell St Im; Y. In las \ I | ? A O st the bubi in all prd There 4 Francisc| connec and secr cessibie tions. reputabl| orata v The & 1s probal kind quires to dorsemef ing. It mense s stantly i publicat nected w Mercant both of 4 good upon th chanics] the City, an large brary is the ~ M shelves the bes that o institut and the ea: men ter, tir doing f public s ing th con San Visitof Publi press ing of i and thi the Mc4 is reach) the ent The the ma as Eng are of younge rary or five- renrese) literaty lection thousa The lit ported and go tees, i ex its payers, The becom: plicati time 19 the pri volumg issued umes j rooms letin i 1ion c¢ sions ¢ the py Ina there volum for su readin contai childr] the P room, paper resiae| Ha muint distri the re of pe Dail tween 80 th ofat main in tl equip iectec good perio as dj libre: vide § ers. Th, “the being book, from, cons| recre of 1 L4