The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, February 28, 1897, Page 24

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, FEBRUARY 28, 1897. snede cloth 35 cut o of engraved silver ci over a fitt 0 and fasten t! d bodice of velvet, embroidered with gold. il Le cloth sieeve to the puff. i Wl e b &) i ilor-made gown 1s of suede-colored cloth, trimmed with black velvet, embroidered with gold. The bolern of The cloth sleeves open upon a puff of velvet. Buttons | e i YUSQUETAIRE sleeves are pro- aimed to be the thing for every ing and dinner the coming season. They volved from a very transparent as beaded tulle, Chantilly seline de soie, goazed at the lling over the hands to the may be e , such e or mo seams and xnuckles. latest accordion-pleated skirts ema- nate from one of the leading dressmakers in Paris. The new accordion pleating 1s alluded to as n “inventory,” and it is declared by fashion’s votaries that it will enjoy a great vogue, as it can be applied to_velvet, satin. or tulle with equal ease, as.the pleats are only formed from the hips and therefore do not increase the size of the figure, which was formerly one of the greatest disadvantages of accordion pleating. One such model skirt ‘greatly admired is of white | taffetas embroidered with bouguets of jet; the bodice draped and em- broidered alier the same manner. With it was worn a Marie Antoinette fichu in mousseline de soie. Make a mental note of the fact (you may positively depend upon my pred 1) that fichus will be much worn by fashionable women East all tbrough this sammer, for they are again to be the mode. Mille. Sorel a few weeks ago wore one of white mousseline de soie, edged with two frills, over a bodice of deep blue silk gauze upon a mauve silk lining. much gouged -at the hips. The eftect by the white fichu and the long mousquetaire sleeves is said to have been most pictur- esque. The fichus are always worn shightly open at the throat, being most becoming when so arranged uunless the wearer is most painfully thin. Gloves for evening dress are always either white, cream or a pale shade to | match the dress,and when long are fin- white lace spangled 80 as 10 eitber maten ibe spangles on the zown or to repeat some tone in the coloring. They are heid in place round the arm with narrow rib- bons—white, mauve or pink, according to the dress—and tied with frisky little bows, which should not have any ends. The Jatest gloves have the three seams ombroi- dered with small spangles sewn on 0 as Such spangles may be either red, gold, silver or of any appropriate color, but nat- urally the mousquetaire sleeve will do away with long gloves. Fur on Spring Organdy Would not seem so very unseasonable were it applied to woolen or silken fabrics, | but what do you think of a sheer white organdy being beautiful, not only with a lace applique, but also with a border of fine sable, it is said to be a simply ravish- | inely lavely creation and vastly becoming. However, most of us will content our- seives with the evolution of dainty, fetci- ing frocks for the coming months, adorned simply with laces and insertions, ribbons and frills galore, and during the long, quiet Lenten days much thought can be expanded in such vanities, but that re- mindsme that I have heard litts tales concerning events that will take place during the penitential period, which makes me wander whether it will be very strictly observed; however, that is au- other story, and toreturn to the organdies, mulls, chiffons, mousselines de soie and grenadines, be sure if you cannot have a silken foundation for each one, to at least have three perfectly fitted, and then you The skirt was of taf- | fetas beautifully embroidered and very | yourselves with a small amount of the foundations, unless you have had a considerable amount of experience. ! Last summer I was much amused at one young woman who was constantly telling her friends avout how she had made all her Jight dresse: { regular beanpole, so she had all the silk | sltps most carefully fitted and padded by | one of the best women here, and then she | really did make the little confections of | muslin and lace, for which she received | numberless compliments, bat she never can all take a leaf from her book and go and do likewise, and thus have a ward- | the smailest possible outlay, the sum absolutely necessary for our girls 10 ex- pend for their frocks will be considerable during the next few weeks if they have aspirations to be smartly robed, as a great dresses this summer, and therein the expense, for example, from 200 to 400 yards of lace and almost the same | number of yards of insertion, fizure, | creamy gown covered with natural seized Duchess de Brabant rosebuds, made over | a rose pink glace silk foundation. | Almost as pretiy was one of pure white over pale-green silk. {t had numberiess {rills, on every one of which were three rows of narrow green satin ribbon. Such dainty belongings cannot be owned by us all, and [ suggest that those who cannot «fford several such dresses—of course, 1 am most all the while thinking of those wbo go out a great deal or entertain con- siderably—should instead select-two pretty light taffeta silks and have them made | pertectly, with different vests or fichus of mousseline or chiffon, and they will give | smallest possible expeaditure, for a cer- tain outlay is absolutely necessary for any one who has any ambition *to keep up | with the procession,” otherwise take my | advice, stay at home and only see your | intimate friends. : | Iknow atrue story about a very fash- | ionable New York matron who bad two | beautiful daughters, who had just made | proaching sprin:. She informed her hus- and what sum would be necessary to | supply their wardrobes for Newport and | he promptly told her that such an amount | he could not afford, having just suffered & | financial loss. This wife did not weep, | but calmly thought about the situation, | and arrived at this conclusion that to goto Newport without certain frocks was not 10 be thought of, to stay in the baking | city would cause remarks, which would |lead to explanations which might affect | Ler daughter's prospecis. So remember: ing that ber husband had lost an auntin London, she calmly said: “My dear, wi | will go into mourning for Aunt Sareh, i and that will be our excuse for spending a | delightful summer in some quiet place.” In cvery way was this parent’s ides a snccess, for her girls re- turned for the next winter's campaign thorougbly resied and refreshed and—but the next thing I know [ will be telling you a love story and that would not be- long to this page. Sun-Pleating. As it is to be most fashionable for all transperent fabrics, let me exp!: is a wide, flat side-pleating. Two years ago it was introduced in New York by a / on | | one simple little organdy, which has a | | an immense amount of satisfaction at the | ished at the top with a fall-off cuff of | n | their aebut most successfully in the aj to fit over one another like fish scales. | 4 L2 worldly-wise | | patience, but let the dressmaker handle | went into raptures over its charms. | sun-pleated, gauzy fabrics. Well, she isa ! | | told who made those lovely slivs, and we | can make some really pretty little things | well-known Broadway house, but it did not take East. However, the Parisians Asa result we are now receiving imported cvening frocks in this country from France made up most delightfully out of Let me cau- tion you not to have your best frocks made until the styleof skirt has been posi- tively decided on, as the close-sheathing skirt bas a'ready taken a fixed hold, and, with the exception of the skirts for the sheerest stuffs, it will be the model by which all fashionable skirts will be cut. Besides, remember most of them are Lo be | hung over a separate silk skirt, which will be very considerably narrower. Num- | berless models and daring creations are i rcbe full of really charming garment at | deal more trimming must be used on all | lies | | every season offered for our contempla- tion, but the wise woman with a small income always waits as long as possible until things are definitely decided, so as to have her few gowns in advance of the styles here if possible. Concerning sleeves, Vogue tells ng: “Re- ance sleeves are to be undoubtedly | the model for the coming season, the arm | fitted closely, with the tops Irilled or | puffed into fullness. That entirely tight- | fitting sleeves will be a little more general | would not be surprising, for a few were | seen last summer, and through the winter we have met them occasionally. Those who choose to wear them will be quite on | tl.e safe side, but the favorite sieeve, the | most becoming one, will be ore which | mives the length of arm with long wrists, | clearly detined, and is topped off with a jockey.” A Model Bolero | Fastening down one sde and showing | a little frill of lace or lisse, revealing just a peep of light under the bodice, is most popular. The sleeves of this are made with epaulettes trimmed with velvet rib- bons or with black silk braid, and the cos- tume is generally completed by a plain | cloth skirt, either light or dark in color, which may or may not be braided. When made of black velvet such a bodice may be worn for the next two months for in- | formal visiting. | Very coufortable are the new bedices made of tucked crepe de chine completed | with a linen collar and ribbon stock. 1t is noticeable that the bolero form of bodice 1n cloth or velvet, worn over some light waistcoat of the lace or lisse order, | still has numerons fashionable devotees. Two Americans in Paris. A Paris correspondent writes that quite lately Mrs. Vanderbilt called on the | (American) Countess de Castellane, and on that occasion wore an Ophelia green moire. At the left side of the skirt wasa panel trimmed with the new vandyked buttonboled tabs edged with tinsel thread. Every point was fastened with a jeweled button. Down the left side of the bodice and on the sleeves were pleatings of lace, the falls of lace forming large bows, with a jeweled button in the center of each. The Countess received her friend at- tired in an at-home gown of cream-tinted satin, which hLad a draped frontof pink | satin, over which fell gracefully a garni- { ture of rare old lace. The Waiteau back fell in rich folds of satin, covered with apple blossoms painted by hand. Hairdressing. This all-important topic deserves much thought, and at the present moment flowers, such as lilies of t.e valley, roses and violets, are being extensively used, in combination with gracefuily tied moire bows. Very youthfu! debutantes are wearing little half-wreaths of small flowers, their older sisters preferring a | rose with two empire tips richly spangled. | Tiny pompons with osprey aigrettes are | likel, as are also ostrich plumes. At a certain valentine party a beautiful girl wore a rose falling at the nape of the neck, the color of the rose matching the ostrich tips on either shoulder. The most fashionable coiffures show the hair waved and toss:d lightly back rather than drawn back, and arranged in artistic loops and puffs surmounted by an aigretie caught with a jeweled ornament. A few | curls fal! over the temples, or there may be no bangs atallit desired, the waved | pompedour being in vogue. In many instances the hair is waved from the nape of the neck; after reaching acertain height upon the head the tiny waves merge into a series of puffs, the one toward the front forming the pompadour. A jeweled star, a bandeau of diamonds and emeralds or of diamonds and olivines, ortwo white wings rising from a jeweled ornament, form a pretty finish to an evening coiffure. The favorite place just now for the mass of hair is near that part of the head whick is most distant from the chin. The place has to be varied slightly in order to be becoming, the rule being 10 wear it high, and when a bat s worn it must not show oelow. Handkerchief. Very elaborately embroidered are the latest and no longer are floral designs in vogue—birds and insects being now the lmu:l correct ornamentations. On one _ : Gown in the new combination of blue and parple. ain that it | row bias black satin flounces. Tne waist is trimmed with five tny rows of pale blue The purple skirt has five rows of nar tin. Tue two little shoulder capes are flounced with blue, The waistband and collar are of black atiu, beautiful mouchoir are butterflies in each of the four corners, on another a line of swallows extend diagonally across the center. Bees and flias border many and the embroideries are to be bad in white or in contrasting shades, and some plaided borders are shown. For mourning are obtainable very exquisite handkerchiels | with either white or deep violet cambric | centers edged with black duchesse lace. Novelties are liked in cotton foulards | and batiste. being exquisitely fine in tex- ture as well as artistic in tints. Monograms are done in outline stitch, and are Irequently placed in the center of the handkerchief. This is, however a matter of fancy, but must always be framed by a circle in some correspond- ingly attractive emoroidery stitch. Ecru linen banakerchiels, with stripes or checks of lavender, reseda green or old pink, are among the smart combinations for general utility purposes. Handkerchiefs to match the gown in color are quite the proper thing, and for evening wear filmy bits of mousseline de sole, edged by several ruffies of point d’esprit lace. only are correct. The minor accessories of the toilat are safely beallowed to accompany any gown anywhere. Our Tables. Table decoration is undergoing quite a change. Some ladies who have become expert at the Honiton lace work have | combined the effect with rich embroidery | on a center linen piece surrounded by the border of Honiton. A recent luncheon showed the table all in white save the effect of soft color produced by violet | sprays on the center linen piece of the | Honiton at the center of the table. Belore each guest's place were tiny doilies of the same style for the glass butter-plate’ and sait-cellar. These Iatter, by the way, were imported from Russia and were enameled little bowls in the quaint silver- smith’s designs of the Russian domains | with small ladles of the same in each. The floral center was ferns with fragrant violets, The whole was veritabiy a dream of beauty. MARCELLA. Style for Men. The question is frequently asked why do | every garment worn by them, and other: demanding great attention, and none is some men seem to imparta certain air to | who patronize better and more expensive silk for day as well as evening wear cut up into This little gown shows what we are coming to. | | We are to have our ekirts of cashmere or | stories. | receiving more than the handkerchiefs of '97. which are daintily exquisite in design and manufacture. Our Petticoats Now demand as much attenticn as our gloves or shoes, and for street wear none | are so stylish as those of the very best | quality of black taffeta, made with corded ruffles. Frequently two or three are sewn on together, thus giving the appearance around the bottom of three distinct skirts. The cords are usually set in clus- | ters of five or three. Tbrough some of | them are run featherbone of the lightest and most flexible quality, but a stiff cord | is preferred by most women. I have heard of one especially handsome skirt, which had a triple-foot flounce. On the i top one was appliqued & heavy pattern of guipure lace set in guite flatly. | It is the greatest possible mistake to put lace on petticoats to be worn on the street, as it collects dust, zerms and mi- crobes, and is not only untidy but dan- gerous as well, for it tears easily, and so has a tendency to trip up the wearer. Truly gorgeous are many of the petti- | coats designed for house wear, the most beautifui and costly of silks and laces be- | ing lavishly consumed in their composi- | tion. One such garment for a bride is_of | a rich heavy white silk covered with | bunches of pale pink roses; round the bot- tom is & lace-edged {rill of rose pink taf. leta covered with ona of fine white lace. which has as a heading a quilling of tne taffata. Indeed, no woman having any pretentions to dressing well would think her wardrobe complete withoutat least half a dozen of silken shirts, many of which owe their charms to the fact that madame is an excellent shopper and un- derstands how charmingly odds and ends can be put together at ascomparatively small outlay. The Turban Is the form of hat now to be worn on all dressy occasions and it will shortly be | seen here in all colors and shades of | velvet and tulle. One turban just noted in Paris was of turquoise tulle, trimmed with a black velvet cnou and a long white feather. Another was in cerise velvet with two black tips fastened, en aigrette, with a brooch of diamonds, and a third was of white tulle, trimmed with black | and white feathers. These turbans are said to be easily made, only a tight-fitting | shape being necessary. The crown is | covered wita plain velvet and the border is a wide piece of either tulle or velvet very closely twisted and attached at the side where feathers and ornaments are placed. Perhaps, after we have scen one or two such models we might be able to make one, but I should not like to experi- ment, so 1 advise you all to watch for the openings of our leading millincrs, as thus far, excepting the turbans, there are no distinct novelties in the market excent in hats, and a peop at some of these which I have just enjoyed reveals | to me the popularity of glace silk, of bright-colored straws, and of black tulle bats with crowns embroidered in dia- monds or sequins, The artificial flowers are more lovely than ever, and the best examples of new millinery shows roses of the brightest pink with a weaith of foli- age, these being used as the sole decora- tion to bats of dark red or cerise-colored straw. These light straws which we adopted last year are again to have our favor; the blue, the pink, the green, and the mauve all reappearing, but at the mo- ment, perbaps, if we want to buy a new hat we should eschew the charms of these, itis too early for their immediate wear, and choose rather one of the little toques elaborately tucked and irilled of biack tuile traced with diamonds, turned up at one side, with a couple of black feathers and flowers. Such a style as this might | g E g tailors, never look especially well. Natur | spo | The weavers have taken the scream out of for designing fashions for some indepen- dent fashion-plate publisher. - It is ten to |-one if tnis -arpointed creator of styles i ever saw a well-dressed man. At any rate he is not the mun to tell men whatto do. He gets his ideas from the channels that supply the clothier, the rendy-maaes. He draws a plate, and soon as it is out every sweater and manufacturer makes the suit. Itisin the market almost im- | mediately. You will find these fashion- plate fashions in $5 suits, “What kind ofa tailor will recommend suits of that type to an experienced man of the world? You must have a tailor who can carry out the ideas that you ab- sorb from mingiing with well-dressed men, or that he has absorbed from having been patronized by weil-dressed men. Either you or the tailor must know enough to stay away from the old fashion-plates.” Recently a man asked waat he shoulq wearto church. Iam not surprised at the question, as I have noticed several who should know better attired in tweod suif s when they possessed an excellent frock and cutaway coats, which they really might have put on with faucy worstea trousers, well-polished calf or patent- leather shoes, slate or tan collored gloves, light-colored tie and siik hat. With a frock coat licht trousers are worn, with a cutaway rather dark ones, At informal morning and afternoon at- fairs, when one has to be dressed *above | the business or negligee standard,” the cutaway coat can be donned. T.e very latest collar, that promises to take extremely well in New York, isa balf-banded turndown. It is worn witha narrow back satin cravat, tied in a small, compact bow. Spring suitings are arriving in great quantities. Every sort of mixture and all kinds of plaids are shown, but the Cambridge and Oxford mixtures of serges are especially g For the street and country hopsacking will be seen, and knickers will be constantly worn by men when in the country, no matter what they happen to be doing, but when yacht- ing double-breasted coats of black cheviot or blue serge will be worn wih white duck trousers. In the fancy suitings checks are in mod- erate patterns anc in rather quiet tones. The Scotch tweeds, cheviots and home- reveal some tasteiul color schemes. the patterns, and as a result they are most sausfactor; C.C. Adverse Griticism, What flowers I had in onme fair knot were bound, And 50 I 1aid them on & public stall, Wondering would any one teke note st all, Or, taking note, o praise them would be found, A keen-eyed critic turned the nosegay round, o true flowers, these!” and “Mere weeds that grow sgainst the church’s wall | And what coarse thread abou: the stalks is wound | *Tis true, I fear me, dandelions and grass Iculled, mistaking them for garden bloom, And half believing that they might so pess; And now my cntic has pronounced my doom, | | Half undeceived, I shall not grudge my lot, 1f friends may find one truc forget-me-not, 1, in the Spectator. Wanted to Wash Like Father. Fond Mother—Come and let me' wash your face, Johnny; it is time for school. Johnny—Shan’t. Fond Mother—Oh, vou naughty boy. Johnny commences to cry. Fond Mother—Now come and tell me ally the way garments are put on has a | good deal to do with this effect, but a man | when giving his orders for a new suit | should know exactly what he wants and not allow the tailor to make it as he | pleases. Apropos of thisone authority says: | ‘“Your clothes must be right. How toget | them right is indeed a hard problem to | solve. When I go to a tailor and he | marches me up to a ridiculous old chromo | that shows off some men in dowdy clothes | Iprotest. When be tells me that the old | chromo is an authentic and reliable fash- | ion plate, ‘from the very best authorities, ‘ sir,” I boil. *Do not let any tailor show you a fashion plate. There is not one that is correct, | up-to-date or proper. Men’s fashion plates | usually represent the idea of some poor | cutter and designer, who was brought up | in the tenement district or some other | plebeian quarter. He gets so mucha year | what's the matter, Johnny; there's a dear. Johuny—Bo-ho-ho! Wants to wash like father. Fond Mother—Well, 80 you shall. How does father wash? Johnny—Puts on lots of soap and scrapes 1t off wif a knife. Johnny had seen his tather shaving.— Spare Moments. He Won the Bet. “Howdy, major! a question, ju know. Now, I want you to answer to decide a little bet, you be <o kind as to pay par- tica n and think before you speak. Did it rain this morning?"* “Why, of course it did!”” said the major much surprised. “Exactly. Much obliged,” said the in- quirer, with. a relieved expression. *You see, Judge Barker here bet me $40 that you couldn’t tell the truth on any subject and under any circumstances whatever, and 1 took him up. me out and have a drink.”—Texas Siftings. 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