The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, February 14, 1897, Page 24

TUCKED Draped COSTUME ned ere. red eashm THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 1897. FROM REDFERN. at the side with a frill ero in bl Ive! hending in harmony Blouse and frills in es for evening dress quite apart from that capita occasion o rich white dt princess and from those f with point d’An the hands. The t over, her veil covered ded to the was worn a The bride’s arrayed in mother was velvet gla On the -lined em- lar quille a jabot of fine A sho! ders puifed. The beautified , and at were apote of b goid ana the left side ne black ostrich tips and arose an ai several rette. The groom’s sisier was arrayed with equal taste in a Tobe of oyster-gray satin, which opened from the neck to the foor, over white satin worked with diamonds and edged with Russian sable. The roll- ing collar was square in shape in the Louis X1II style, the rarest Venetian lace was employed. The neckband of white satin and sable and in the style known as the “Anne of mired. tulle had goura plume and a white aigrette. two bridesmaids’ costumes were moire velvet; the b chiffon ruches and shoulder ornaments setween the gradu; sleeves; hats resembling smaj turbans of black tulle, oow on one side and high white aigrette. A Gala Dress Just completed for the Dowager Duchess @' Aosta 13 described as follows: “The skirt was oranze velvet giace with pink, made half long and v the sides; at the back two or three box pleats; the sides were white satin cov- ered with motifs of embroidery and span- gles on zauze; at the foot a thick ruche of white tulle, bordered with rouleanx of in. The iow bodice was satin, broidered and edged with a e ruche, the front of white satin em- broidered with diamonds and spangl and sbove this a narrow row of sable. Orange corselet, edged with embrdidered and spangled satin; very short sleeves composed of tulle, sable and tufis of roses shaded with vellow. This same dress looks very well carried out in white velvet and satin.” The Orchid Gown Isone of the season’s novelties. It is for evening wear, and has a point de Venise bodice, the decolletage and V-shaped vest being edged with artificial orchid flowers | The | made of veivet with jeweled centers. cos had bre- | ) large velvet | close-fitting on | i | steeves. The sleeves merely consist of | | puffs of gauze—very small ones—caught | | here and there with jeweled bands of tur- | | quoise velvet, simulating the stamens of | | a flower, so that each sleeve looks like a | great orchid. The tablier of the | of exquisite lace, with orehid | gown is of a soft, rich, bluish purple | | silk. For a debutante of slender proportions there is pothing prettier than a rose bod- ice. A berthe of roses, composed of from threo to four rows of exquisite roses, buds and folisge, is arranged gracefully around | the shoulders, crossing kerchief style | in front and passing over a vest of | mousseline de soie. The two ends can be | | fastened in the back at the waist line and | fall artistically, mingling with a great | tuile bow, which bas long ends. A thick | | ruche of the flowers encircles the skirt of | mousseline de soie, and the foundation of the whole is pule rose taffeta. Such a | gown would bea complete atlure if at- | tempted at home, for unless properly | handled the roses look both ciumsy and ugly. Embroideries and Laces. | These are being offered in tempting pro- fusion at many of our leading stores a Prices that are simply wonderful consider- | r artistic and other merits. The ciited with imaginations and | foresignt have been securing many yards | of embroidery, for it will be possible to | use most advantageously great quantities | of it, as well as iace, in all our spring and summer garments. For example strips of | fine embroidery may be employed with | cobwebby batiste or chiffon, or black vel- | vet to malke really lovely bodices, which | may fit tightiysor loosely, according tothe | taste or figure of the wearer. | Collars of lace or embroidery are used with excellent effect on ail houso and evening gowns, and boleros either cut round or straight, loose or tight, pleated | | or plain, wiil be seen all tbrough the | | spring and probably through the summer | as well. The pleated ones are most artis- tic, and can be evolved from a piecs of flouncing set into a double pleat on either | shoulder and one in the center of the back, or the arms. The flouncing must set perfectly plain, and this style can only be induiged in by slender women. Down the front must extend an | applique of lace on either side. Such a | bolero can be worn over a high dress or overalow one, and 1 hear it will look | very smart, provided, of course, that the | | materials used are of fine quality, as in- deed it is useless to waste time over in- ferior cheap goods. Boleros. Boleros have become, I think, almost | common, althougt: I confess they are most | | becoming to many figures, still they are be- ing overdone; however, it is an acknowl- | | edged fact that they are to hold theirown for some time yet, and perfectly plain bole- ros of embroidered net or coarse or fine lace are being cut up not only for boleros but for | epanlettes also. Irish lace is really an economical purchase, for italways looks | well and will last a lifetime. When lace bodices are made from it they are usnally charming, and lace bodices are daily in- creasing in popularity, being very becom- | ing. Fine black lace mounted over white | net was recently nsed with great success | for a bodice that was worn with a black | satin skirt. The combination of dead | white and creamy white is stitl in vogue, | and lace skirts will be popular for many months to come; quite fetching is one which is gathered just below the hips and | forms a very full narrow ruche. It showsan | edging at the knees, outlined with little frills of kilted ribbon. The same arrange- | | ment trims the hem. For half-monrning | | 2 black lace skirt made in the same way over white satin with frills of white rib- | bon would be chic. The easiest way of making such skirts is with flouncings of iace, (wo rows of this being sewn to-| gether, and where they join the frills of ribbon appear. | Sleeves. | The mnovelty of the season for | dresses, as jar as sleeves are concerned, | | baH“ emanates from Paris, even New York | | being slow to adopt them. They are lu- | cidly described as long mousquetaire | sleeves falling well over the hand-. The | lace, for instance, will be black pailette in | bright or dead silver, the spangles of the | smallest size. The sleeve will reach | | and 1t is almost NEW TO-DAY. GOOD & REESE Roses ARE ON THEIR OWN ROOTS. We send instructions with each order HOW TO PLANT AND CARE FOR THEM. leeve most graceful, piving that length of arm which adds so much to one's neight. Several of fashion’s lesders in New York have endeavorcd these long sleeves on full-dress gowns, but without success. As yet the style has not been seen more than once or twice here, but I warn you all that they are correct; 80 try them for your next ball | dress. Skirts. It has been definitely decided that for evening wear the open front, the orna- mented panel, the full gathered flounce from the knee, starting from a ruche which will border the hem, and the co- quille trimming—which, as its name de- | notes, is like a shell made cf pleating, with bouguets of violets or any flower suitable in the center. All these modes will ba seen. “For day wear panels will also be used, | the nature of | and flat bands, or after tucks, headed by Inr. The embroidery | will be principally relegated to evening dresses, and there is nothing newer than | the Empress designs and those of Louis | | XV reign; but a good many besutiful ga- lons and beaded ‘motifs will be introduced from the waist downward, and be carried down the side. in thin materials, clustered together at the hem, and constituting the sleeves. The V-shaped embroidered pieces on the bodices become more znd more elaborate, impossible to have too many buckles in paste or too many die- monds, or paste buttons. Soft frillings and tlounces of lace fall downward from | the bodice and are held in place by dia- mond ornaments.” Spring and Summer Goods| but the | loveliest I have thus far noted were some | One beauty had a pure white | Are arriving in great quantities, organdies. ground sprayed with the most perfectly natural pink roses and their foliage I have epaulettes are cut in the shape of an |above the elbow only on the top of the | yetseen. The pink was a most becoming curve outward over the short ' was much ad- | orchid petal. They are composed of lace, | arm, but will pass undernesth and attach | tone, another having a creamy surface The small capote of spangled | heavily jeweled lace, and are wired to |1tselfto a lace epaulette. The effect of the | was made lovely by the Marechal Niel | upper | sly use of bare arm is charming and the | bud scattered over it. Do not make a 2. Princess dress of accordion-piaited gre by & rosette of black faille. snd epaulettes, Cabbage bow and streamers in NS mimoss-yellow or emerald-green velvet. in purple moire velour. The narrow continuous vest is in black satin piped with cream color, and the front of black mousseline de edged with eresm lace and the toque ot pinkish mauve roses, cream lace, biack tips and a bird of paradise feath 1. tafleta, open its entire length upon a iront of cream-colored lace over satin. Black velvet neckband. 3. Modernized Empire dress. Low awdl loose overall dress in cream silk gauze over white satin, -4,, s soic over purple. TRe.ruffle is Waistband of black velvet. Drapery of lace on the bodice fixed Rows of Mechlin lace surround the hem and outline the square opening, forming berthe to discard | Ball gowns favor frills | with crimson. bloom freely this Summer, either in pots or bloomers. We send instructions with each order, how to plant and care for them. Please examine the list below of 20 choice, fragrant monthly Roses, and sea if you can duplicate them suywhere for an smount so small as $1, all new kinds. We guarantee them to reach you in good condition, and we also guarantee red. "MD. SCIPION C OR, deep golden vellow, very fragrant. CORINN] crimson, very rich. AUGUSTA VIC o+ OF FRAGRANCE, in clusters of 8to 1o roses, white edged shell vellow-tinged with copper and orange. PRINCESS SAGAN, called the velvety rose from its richness. YELLOW HERMOSA, a charming yellow of the richest color. everybody's favorite, always in bloom, VICTOR HUGO, rich bright pink, finest rose growa. Getup'a Club:andwget your Collection FREE. Choice Roses at 5 Cents 2 Our Rainbow Collection . e 5. ©9F2( roses ror §1,00 rreraic ey mai B ‘The Roses we send are on their own roots, from o to 15 inches high, and will them to be planted in yard. They are hardy ever- They are nearly The BEST DOLLAR'S WORTH OF ROSES You Ever Purchased. 8" THE LIST. white. ['ID. SCHWALLER, rich pink in clusters, very fragrant. [TA[TAN COCHET, rosy pink touched with yellow. HENRI RIGNON, coppery vellow, shaded with OCHET, primrose yellow, tose shadings. BOQUET » flesh color shaded tzwn_{ MADAME JULES FING! BEAUTE INCONSTANTE, changes color from yellow to red. WHITE PERLE DES JARDINS, immaculate DE eat bloomer. THE QUEEN, immense large pure white, AMERICTN BELLE, a grand dee copper. 'ORIA, pure white, ink. PRINCESS OF WALES, amber, R,g)ure snow white, wax-like in texture. J.B. red rose, deliciously fragrant. CRIMSON QUEEN, deep velvet& always in bloom. QUEE ink, bordered VARRONNE, e UIS DE VIVIENS, MARQUIS 10 cts. stamps. secds and plants free. We Plants alone last season 410 WE CAN SAVE YOU MONEY. want the very best. Try us. GOOD & REESE €O, Champion City Greenhouses, SPRINGFIELD, OHIO. Liberal are the LARGEST ROSE GRO' exceeded a million and a half. Address, ‘When Six Collectiors all labsled and packed ssparately, sant for $5. Our Handsome Tllustrated Catalogue, describing all kinds of Roses, Plants, Bulbs and Seeds, mailed for remiums to club raisers of how to get your ERS IN THE WORLD. Our sale of Rose you order Roses, Plants and Seeds you | Spring gown of shot green silk, the ruffles edged with black ribbon velvet. covers the broad revers and the upper part of the slceves. The tiny vest is cream chiffon over | | green, and may be crossed by a littie cravat of weasel fur. | o | 1 | | | | | | | i | { | | | | | | | | | | [ Guipure lace mistake in purchasing the remains of last | year's stock, the designs for the summer | of '97 are vastly prettier than any ever shown before. One noticeable fact is that all canvases, etamines and grenadines are woven not more loosely, but the silken linings underneath. They are to be had ina | positively endless variety, so that every imaginable taste can be satisfied. | The heavy linen canvas with open work insertions every inch and a half are ultra chic. The remaining portion is run with siken hues; par example, one of ecru tint is run with pale mauve satin stripes, and the dress will be lined with exactly the came color silk. You readily imagine the charming .effect, pale green, blue or a golden brown may also be had. This fabric is forty-six inches wide and will not be generally worn, as it costs $2 25 per yard. A variely of grenadine looks as though woven out by a combination of thick twisted strong strings and cobwebs. The extremely stylish is forty-six inches wide, | price $235 per yard. The new shade of | purple, brown, blue, green and tan may be had. Curio Tables Are the latest fad for imilady’s drawing- room. They are dainty, plush-lined re- centacles, covered and surrounded with glasy, for precious miniatures, rare bits of ivory, and priceless gem-incrusted curios should not be carelessly exposed to dust or atmospheric changes, so now they rest quite safely in their tinted, perfumed nests. Dames of high degree, who recall with pride ve old colonial days, take es- pecial delight in such tables, and many a bit of hali-forgotten history is recalled as | they relate the quaint stories connected | with some tiny trifle. However, if the fair owner of such a table is a bit of a bas bleu there may be a miniature of Napo- leon printed by Isaby and given by some ardent admirer of the autocrat to some distant r:lative of the owner. Orif the fair coliector is sumply an up-to-date woman her curio-table is crowded with dehigbtful knick-knacks, which she frankly admits are all purchases of ber own and not heirlooms—trifies which she has vicked up abread—a lovaiv miniature of | diamonds and rubies given to her by the Raphael’s **Madonna of the Chair,’”” a Rus- sian enamel spoon, hideous ivory stats ette, a quaint old cup and saucer and pe: haps a curious coin or two. | Girdles and Belts. The fashionable brides of tc-day are showing a fancy for the very extravagant fad carried out in fine pearls and known as a “bride’s girdle.”” Such a one can be worn only with the wedding gown. At the narrowest point it is but feur inches in width, and at the widast six; pearls must completely cover the founaation, and the lacing must be done with a fine ; ver wire. The Princess Charles of Denmark has at last decided to have the 100 selected Queen on the occasion of her marriage made into a belt, so the jewels are to be mounted on a flexible gold wire. This idea was suggested 10 the Princess when she saw and aamired greatly the famous telt of the Duchess of Marlborough,which is composed of magnificent stones. Dressing of the Hair. It should be dressed in large loose waves, the waves seen on many a hair- dresser’s dummy in the windows having | long ago become common. French women certainly make far more of their hair than we do. At present they have it | rolled over a cushion in front, the soft knot at the back not being unduly promi- nent. Ornaments do not suit this mode, and as a result they have been discarded. Itis a mistake if your face is too broad to try and make it less noticeable by dress- ing your hair with a narrow effect in front, as broadness; rather study to have the hair always mn keeping with your especial style, no matter what the prevailing mode. Narrow oval faces are made lovelier than ever when surrounded witt the soft, fluffy frame oi hair now so fashionable. MARCELLA. For Men. The men who desire to be correot in all things should be extremely careful about their stationery. Crane’s bond paper, that only accentuates such | either a crest or'monogram shouid be siamped on it. Neither should be more than a fourth of an inch in height, and to seal all letters use a seal with your arms (if you have any) or your monogram. The white lawn ties worn with full evening dress are one inch wide, as sre also those of black satin worn with a Tuxsdo coat. While satin waistcoats show no signs of becoming fashionable, those of white vique are being still worn for full evening dress by the best turned-out men. “Him" makes several sensible remarks in his last article, so let me quote: “I think good business and good clothes go together. The well-dressed smart-look- ing fellow has much more prestige than the man in shabby and rusty clothes. The suits designed for business wear are comfortable, durable and cheap, 'They (are made of good stout Sotch or Irish stuffs. Warm plaids or overplaids in the earthy Scotch shades are now very popu-~ lar. These plaids are not loud. The color scheme is well controlled, and though the shades used may bs very bright, they are interwoven with moderate colors so cley- erly that one cannot tell where the bright- ness in the fabric comes from. Plaids should be memde up in single-breasted sacks only. Ifyouwant a double-breasted coat, have it made of a MWack or blue cheviot, and wear it with fancy worsted trousers. The double-breasted sack when made of a plaid material always appears a bit provincial. nd now asto the cut of business suits. If you are tall I should say a four-but- toned cutaway sack. If you are short make it three buttons. The pockets should be inserted, not patch, and shouid have liberal flaps. There should be no breast or handkerchief pocket. Have the collar cut wide and have large lapels. The waistcoat should be collarless. The trousers should be cut in the regular way. “With this suit wear a madras or a cheviot suit. Select a pattern that will harmonize well with your suiting. For example, I can’t bear to see green-striped shirts in combination with nut-brown suits, The collar should be a straight- stander or poke, or a bigh-banded turn- down. Ifyou wear a standing collar wear a four-in-hand or an imverial scarf. If you wear a high-banded tufn-down collar wear a club or string tie.” This completes the costume of his “'ideal business man,” with either heavy cape or deerskin gloves of a dark reddish tan, a derby hat and russet or calf shoes. It has been generally conceded that soft Scotch suitings are not thorou:hly satis- as they wrinkle so eusily and quickly bag at the knees. To look well thes must be kept properly pressed either by your valet or your tailor. FEW 7O0-DA FIRE! SMOKE! WATER! UNDERWRITERS’ FORCED SALE of the Entire Stock of LADIES’, MISSES’ and CHIL- DREN’S JACKETS, SUITS, FURS, WAISTS, MACKINTOSHES, UN= DERSKIRTS, etc., of LOEWENTHAL'S (loak and Suit House, Sale commences Wednesday, February 10, 1897, at 9:30 A. M. LAWRENCE SYSTEM, The only one by which you can make a garment ‘without trying on. FREE TESTS. 8ize 4Xx7 incies. is zood form. and then PSS 1030 MARKET ST, =