The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, February 7, 1897, Page 24

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 1897. — | | | The newest style of hairdressing. The effect is obtained by using a round Pompadour | frame, which forms a complote circle. The back hair] is drawn loosely over it and pulled | through the aperture in the center, where it is iormed into puffs and an upstanding loop. 4T SEEMS to be an established fact that , {7 braiding is to be very considerably | f empioyed, buv the braiding will be very different in character from | that seen so much a year ago, for some of | the most beautiful examples from Paris | have open-work flowers in crochet let into the material in the midst of the braiding, and especially in vogue are black figares on the cloth and canvas dresses, just com- | pieted as models for the coming season. | The ungraceful skirts composed of many nseless yards of stuff are vanishing, and stiffened gores are things of the past deed, it has been a sore trial this wearing of skirts that were certainly fashionable, but sadlv uncomfortable and the cause of many a headache. To return to the braiding in tailor | gowns, Mrs. William Whitney has just received one from her tailor. It is of a | clear ieaf green cloth, with a vest of real | turquoise blue satin. The green is largely | toned down with shadows of gray among | the folds, and then the inevitable braiding comes In to further dignify; but the braid- | ing goes exclusively on the front panel of the skirt, taking the form of a frameworc of a rococo panel, or mirror, that cer- tainly commends itself to the eye. This is seen on many a new skirt, but it | 10 panel or large figure effect is adopted, | what is designed as a rose-and-dart design embellishes ihe bottom of the petticoat. It is noteworthy that not one in fifty | skirts goes out innocent of any hem deco- | rations, and that there are two new and | admirable braids—one a broad, satin- finished band, whick, when applied, looks | like a wide satin piping, and another, | rough, balf-silk, half-wool weave known as porcupine soutache, | Tailors are making a great exertion to | fmpart to their gowns such an sir of style that they may be in favor for many occa- | sions, and their success has certainly been | satisfactory, for ata Waldorf musicale Mrs. Jack Astor's tailor pown excited no little admiration. - It was of a bluish purple hue. On the front of coat and skirt and lower balves of sleeves of the smooth-finished spring weight of camels’ hair a large Per- sian figure is cntoutand patched with cream wool twill. Where the edges of cloth meet each other fine black silk braiding is done' in loopings, and then the twill's face is well covered with orna- | mentation in yet finer and more intricate braiding. Where the most delicate tendrils of the vine-like figures run off, black silk em- broidery is set in, and under the first collar of violet camel’s hair a second of twill | folds out over the bust, its points and edges graced with braiding. At least three dickeys and neckbands accompanied this suit—one of white satin, sparkling with jet beading, another of violet velvet, decorated with a double row of close-set, small, cut-steel buckies, and a third of black satin. Alter perusing such a description we can understand the prices asked and rapidly obtained East for such gowns, as assuredly they are well worth from $100 | to $200. | Novel and Gnicicreations. Some delightful models are being sent out this month from London and Paris, as smart women have finished with their costumes made during the first part of the winter and are demanding novel and chic creations to wear to the varied enter- tainments that are being arranged for the gavest part of the season, but visiting dresses are also receiving their serious consideration. One such conception would please most of us, as purple moire velours enters largely in its construction, the skirt being perfectly plain and entirely composed of this fabric. The narrow and continuous vest is in biack satin piped with cream color, and the front of black mousseline de soie is over purple, the same shade of which lines the entire dress. A iull ruche of black chiffon will be worn with this toilette, which is edged with tea- colored Valenciennes lace. The togue is composed of pinkish mauve roses, tea- colored lace and a natural colored bird of Paradise feather. A new weave of cashmere, commercialiy known as “cashmerecloth,”” is much liked in Paris, 50 a young matron here has had & very successful frock evolved from a £oft tan shade, embroidered quite beauti- fully in a black and light tan brad. A color. It should be remarked that the skirt is but four yards wide and fits likea | glove around the hips. More elaborate is a costume, ordered by | a bride, of shot silk of an artistic green shade. Quite a quantity of black ribbon | velvet trims it; indeed, ribbon velvet | figures on many imported costumes, but | is used comparatively little here. Cream- | white guipure lace faces the jaunty short bodice and the sleeves, and a very deep corselet of black satin gracefally drapes | the waist. The very small vest is of sheer chiffon over green. | A novel little cravat effect of weasel's | fur is pretty, and the high, soft collaris | adorned with a narrow band of the fur| and two points of the guipure. The hat | is of an unusual shape, with u square ap- | pearance in front, and is made of velvet | of a rich brown shade, a green bird of | paradise and a little guipure lace. | A picture rare was a wee bit of 8 matron the other day at an informal little tes. Her gown of pale gray cloth was exquis- | itely embroidered with silver and a shade of amethyst silk, now so fashionable. The entire costume was fashioned over this silk. The jacket-like fronts of the bodie revealed a waistcoat of pleated tulle, with acravat in bow form also made of the tulle. This reminds me, girls, to tell vou that ail the smart girls in New York are wearing cravats of pale chiffon tuile. Try one. They are wonderfully becoming. At intervals in the embroidery were in- troduced amethysts with delightful effect, and her gray velvet chapeau, faced with amethyst velvet, had one of the new ser- pent buckles at one side, in which was set an exceptionally fine amethyst. FEven her gloves were stitched with this, to her, most becoming color. MARCELLA. Fresh From Paris. ® From Paris have just been sent out some cloth dresses with heavy open silk em- broidery. They came each in a separate box, and are completed with boleros formed by the insertions setin the cloth. These most desirable novelties are made with broad baunds of satin, and shouid bave little vests of real lace. Only firs class dressmakers can handle them with s hope of doing justice to the fabrics. Very smart 1s a costume worn by & well- known social leader and donned occa- sionally by her when calling. It is of the finest and most beautiful quality of dark brown face cloth. The skirt is edged with aable and lined with a goiden green shot tafleta. The chic rever is also made of this silk, covered with some old Irish lace and edged with sable. The waist- band and neckband are of black satin, the collar being completed with a roll of for. The guaint toque of brown velvet of a dark shade has three handsome up- standing ostrich tips at the left side, held in place with an odd ornament of Indian workmanship. It looks like a loose knot and is studded with emeralds. The crown 1s embroidered to carry out the ides of the ornsment and is wrought in dull zold and small emeralds. MARCELLA. Black Skirts and Light Waists. In Paris skirts of the finest black cloth are being exiensively worn with light- colored waists, made severely plain of the beavy new weave of cashmere (drap d’ete) or of vigogne or cashmere. Pale | but I prefer those composed of tiny lace- | round. | and chiffon, as it is & hundred times more | chiffon, with lace of the most exquisite | | pleated on the hips and trimmed at the |av | velvetis used, and from the top of these | with straps of rose-pink velvet, fastened grays, pinks, Delft blues, reds, greens and petunias are fashionable colors. In front they fasten with simple pearl, gold or silver buttons, like a shirt waist, and the fronts are made with from four to five vleats. Generally they are belted with the new monkey-skin belts, which are to be had in all the newest shades, mounted with gold or old silver buckles, richly en- crusted with turquoise and garnet. The swellest of belts are of gold, enriched with Russian enamel. The sleeves are very moderate in size and have cloth wausi bands that button, The collar is turn down or stand up, ac- cording to the wearer's fancy, and very frequently a little lace is used at the throat. Such waists are sometimes lined with Florence silk. White serge and grain-yellow are dressy and becoming shades much liked. Bodices of black or colored velvets made in the same Way are already enjoying a great vogue. Many are gathered at the waist or tucked and open on the side &sy little vest gives the necessary touch of without showing any fastening, instead of being pleated. They are most becom- g when of velvet to slight figures, cash- mere suiting those best who are plump. ARCELLA. Net Dresses. These are daily increasing in favor for evening wear. Some have simple skirts, accordion pleated, with bodices gatherea into the waist beneath a handsome sash. Sometimes the sleeves have short puffs, edged frills. In some cases the sleeves wrinkie down to the waist. Usually the Cecolletage is most becoming when cut A graceful spray of flowers at one side gives a_finishing touch to a gown | which has enablea many a debutante to look lovely during the pasi month, mdg we may rejoice over the fact that net is | supplanting in favor mousseline de soie desirable. Of course, all such gowns have | a silk or satin foundation. Very pretty is | such a irock t home from a leading dressmaker’s. The skirt is gathered from waist to hem, over a silken slip, with flounces of lace put on at intervalsin a round shape dipping toward the front, and rather high in the back. This style is much in evidence in New York, and is extremely charming, when | carried out in figured net with very fine | real lace. Also I have just heard of the | same idea carried out under the most | expensive circumstances in the finest of | quality inserted transparently, keeping | he same form—low in the front and high | in the back. Greatly admired also, are some net dresses, which have lace insertions in the hem. Grenadine is being used in the same way for young women and the debutantes, ss it is now obtainable in such | attractive evening shades, Beautiful Ball Dress. This may be said (0 be a combination of | the magnificent and the simple, being made of a brocade of pink shot with yel- low, patterned with a ribbon design, fol- lowed by & lace effect. The skirt is bem with two rows of‘fine lace, headed by a band of guipure, just fastened back on to | the second pleat with loops of rose-pink | velvet ribbon, buttoned with diamonds. The bodice shows a sort of double bolero, | the one made of the rose-pink velvet elab- orately worked in tinsel of many hues, ! and the other of the brocade pleated to form a rever. At the back is a pomnted | belt of the embroid-red velvet, in the front st of the softest cream-colored lace; then again on the sleeves the embroidered emerge two puffs of the brocade. The decolletage is cut to show the shoulders, with aiamonds, the bodice se- curely. Describing the most beautiiul gown worn by a debutante at the great New | York ball Vogue says: Among the| younger seta white mousseline de soie, | flounced on the bottom with silver thread edge embroidery, was deliciously fresh | and rming. Round skirt- dancing length, with two or three separate gauze skirts peneath, showing the least glimmer of the white satin shp. The bodica modet | was particularly new. A tignt- fitting | white satin one, with its front draped | with white mousseline, on which were | silver daisies embroidered en relief, tha | centers in strass and the very little full- ness drawn up to the center of decolleage and fastened as it were by a large dia- | mond daisy | “The bodice was round, fastened on the side, being merely a foundazion for lne‘ loveliest drapery of mousseline starting | from the side seams, slanting downward | from the decolletaze toward the front, | where it gave the effect down to the edge holding | bappily relieve the branette headdress | Detached leaves are sparingly studded | over the berthe flounce, while narrow | and ovening of bodice. | front, and below the Greek knot sparkles of waist of an open jacket, the finish con- sisting of a fine plisse frill, which con- tinved round the waist, tie back being draped across the shoulders to the waist line. Tight mousquetaire mousseline sleeves reached the elbow and over the top of them were oval puffs bordered very much as a nurse’s cap with a fine plisse, which gave a charmingly simple finish to the shoulders and was quaint besides. With & string of pearls round the neck, the hair beautifully dressed, nothing so thoroughly raffinee in the way of a debutante’s ball- dress could be devised. MARCELLA. Latest Evening Gowns. A heliotrope brocade, much admired at a recent reception, has orchids in the bodice, as well as some gold and pearl rassementerie. used for the shortelbow sleeves, the frill that extends down the lcit side of the skirt. The effect produced by it is Known as the crossing skirt, because it is presumed to give tfe idea that the skirt crosses over; the bows of plain satin rib- bon, which adorn plentifully the entire gown, are pretty. Felix lately completed three models, the descriptions of which I quote, hoping they may be duly appreciated ; but to con- fess the truth in the matter, I prefer the designs of our well-known dress- makers. The first is spoken of as having a low-pointed bodice and slightly trained skirt in moss-green moire velve large velvet bow on the point at the back; charming and artistic Louis XV corsage | drapery with loop epaulettes, harmoni: ing with the panel robings in cream satin, | edged with rare guipure and all aglow with radiant roses, hand-painted in variegated hues amiast soit lace ap- pligues; oblong diamond buckles. In the coiffure shines a rising-sun ornament in | gems and diamonds resting against a bow of shell-pink satin ribbon. | The second is a robe of black net spangled | with either steel, silver or gold and clev- | erly wrapped on the right side in the loose empire style over a princess gown in black satin. Short bolero in keeping, edged | with sequin lace and cut to meet on either | side the opposite pointsof the fan-shaped | epaulettes in fluted wire net. Tufts and garlands of pink leafdess roses cover the short slecves and outline the square open- ing of the bodice. pink moire silk veiled with spangled net with a light touch of color. A few de- tached blossoms are besides strewn on | pieated chiffon and guipure lace, which the hanging drapery. Berthe of finely | was covered with aundreds of sparkling pleated net. The last mentioned has a low, close-fit- ting bodice and oval trained skirt, mount- ed with three pleatings at the back in dentelle point de Paris, elaborately trimmed with graduated stripes of large velvet leaves, brightenea up with a splen- did gold and multi-color jet embroidery. bands of foliage define the pointed waist Short sleeves in black velvet, gathered into a double puff. | In the coiffure at the back towers a single white ostrich feather, curling toward th, a gem buckle in the center of a windmill bow composed of 100ps 1n shot-yellow rib- bon. White gauze fan, painted with a row | of medallions, with showers of paillettes in rainbow tints. White Satin. This is used with good results for a dainty girl. Round the foot of the skirt is & ruching of mousseline de soie. The satin bodice nas a buttertly front of white mousseline de sote, and the silver and | pearl galon is quite decorative. It is an excellent idea when a light | likewise employed, but not with such hued satin skirt begins to soil around tne Heliotrove mousseline is | nd forms | Other roses or loops of | | | | | | ployed in the evoiution of the trousersare | glowing heather ‘mixtures, as well as | are indulging in bright colors with pic- sewn lightly round the skirt; then over this have a ruching of tulle, mousseline de soie or chiffon. It will make the skirt | look perfectly new and fresh and thus de- lay the departure of the gown to ine cleaner’s. | Ola rose glace is a very fashionable | fabric this season, and one such dress.has a bodice scalloped at the neck, each scal- lop being edgea with an ivory whi pleating of tulle. In front the corsage is embroidered with bands of steel and sil- ver paillettes. The plain skirt is made according to the style now much in vogue in Paris; that is to say, it had a gathering | of a thigk cord about the hips, and this throws the fullness in the most graceful way just where it is needed. A yellow satin made in this City and much admired has the entire front of its bodice beautified with embroidery and | falls of soft old lace. An empire bodice said to be constructed on quite new lines is made with an oddly shaped "bolero of gray satin. It hasa broad wsistband of white satii t the neck are bouillermes of gray and white satin, and crossway folds of the same form the bodice. The skirtshows again folds of the satin. The latest bodices are not fashioned ac- cording to the liking of the dressmakers, for they are so complicated that tney rep- resent an immense amount of labor; as one authority says of a certaln model, each side of the front is different, and each side of the back. One model bodice California that Him's mte.s! rem!rk: on this important and interesting subject are well worth reading, so I quote the fotlow- lines: mfi’l‘be golt suit with the cap to match is no longer in good form. The ready-made affairs have driven the combination out. The new knickers are made of S_cotch worsteds in broad prominent plaid et fects. The hose should be of the same predominating tone as the knickers. “The Scotch knitters are making hose now of a lightweight worsted. The legs are ot a plain color, or of a warm heather mixture. The tops have lozenge panels in very vivid colors. The feet, by a clever process, are woven to tie worsted leg but they are not made of worsted, but of iisle or cotton. “This gives that lightness of texture which insures foot comfort. Very few men could bear the warm, itchy worsted feet, and footless hose were very uncom- fortable and shifty. This new cotton-foot hose overcomes the discomforts lncident’l to woolen feet and supplies hosiery that is rugged, comfortable and healthy. “The knicker for next spring will be cut véry much on the same principle asriding breeches. This will bring the buttonson the quarter-cuffs to the front of the leg. The cuffs should not have less than five buttons, and taey should fit without a wrinkle. When the hose is rolled up over the cuff, put the garter on so that two but- tons on the cuff will be exposed. The tops has, on the left side of the front, a fan- should then be rolled over, and care taken This dafoty nightgown for a small maid is in soft coral pink flannel. yoke, embroidered in feather stitchings of thick white washing ailk. It is trimmed left side in order 1o keep the chest well cov- ered. shaped pleating of the same satin as the dress, widening on the bust and narrow- ing at the waist, while the other half is all tulle and velvet. The deep beltis of tw o shades of velvet, dark and light, crossing exch other in the center of the back and front, and thus presentin g totally differ- ent aspects on each side, Lovely is a ball dress in pale pink satin, veiled with alternate stripes of accordion diamonds. . For the Men. No first-class Eastern tailor would now think of putting a breast pocket in a coat, and I sm thankiul for its disappearance, as it totally ruined a good garment, and certainly it was not necessary to loudly arnounce the fact that one owned a hand- | kerchiel, as such articles are scarcely ever used in pubiic nowadays. The useless little tabs on the fronts of shirts have likewise vanished, as they were never of the slightest use. When in mufti the best-turned-out men turesque results when they do not permit their fancies run riot. Golf suits are owned by most Eastern society men, and the Scotch goods em- the only correct fabrics. In coloring they are more than satisfactory, and the warm bold rea plaids, are liked by some. Single-breasted coats of a heavy cheviot or black vicuna will be worn with our knickers. The vests may be of the same fabric as the coat, but fancy goods are pleasing resnits. bottom to have a bias piece of material | Golf is so rapidly gaining in favor in ol 1. Btuart tailor costume of blue cashmere cloth with braidings in biue and black and a skirt of primrose, The tucked and pointed yoke is of plain primrose silk. The cravat should be black and the hat also. 2. Dainty toilet for a summer girl. The satin skirt is iwlae-colored lace. SPRING AND SUMMER GOWNS. periectly plain. The bodice is of mousseline de soie and has It has a pointed | with a ruffle of torchon lace and closes at the | Striped flannel pajama for a girl of 12. The stripes are red and the yoke, waistband aud in red. Fine torchon lace trim- | that the pattern is even. A slovenly rolled top destroys the heauty of the eolf hose.” HUMOR ON THE FERRY An Oakland Maiden's Sorry Plight and How it About. Game T was on the hal‘-past ‘6 evening boat to Oakland that it happened. ¢ Now, this particular boat carries a very gloomy and misanthropic load of hu- manity. Indeed, not even the early mo ing boats coming this way, laden with people who have been forced to rise in the chill gray dawn, carry 8o grim and unso- ciable a lot of passengers as are seen on this special trip through the dusky shad- ows of approaching night to the regions across the bay. A tew of the morning travelers are, it is true, San Franciscans who went over to see their sweethearts—it is s harrowing fact that some San Franciscans do have sweethearts on the other side of the bay— and got left. There are also among them some mis- guided beings who have ba:n lured from the peaceful and pious precincts of our City to spend their nights in unboly rey- elry amid the glittering dens of vice and iniquity which we have been told on good authority masquerade under the innocent name of clubs in Alameda County, and bave, consequently, massive and sching heads for baggage. The majority, however, are workmen who have rested well, breakfasted com- fortably, bave appetizing lunches in their neat little baskets and are facing the pros- pect of a remunerative day’s work. There- fore, though sleepily silent, they are for the most part cheerful, hopeful, and, when occasion calls for communication among them, decently civil in look and speech and manner. Not so with the unfortunates mock- ingly known as “the happy sixers.” They are mostly business men who have been detained at the office over time by business or lack of business; clerks who have been ‘‘put upon’ in the matter of extra work; women who have been so absorbed in the pursuit of “bargains’ that they have paid no heed to the flight of time until the store doors have been gently but firmly closed behind them and persons who have ccomplished tue unsatisfactory feat of *'just missing” the 6 o'clock boat. This being the case everybody is more or less discouraged, and nearly every one is cross—decidedly so—for they are all the mad rush to be first on board is over the passengers gravitate to the front enq of the saloon and, sitting there in mor, and stony silence, either feign uty, ignorance of the existence of their felioy. sufferers or stare at each other sup. ciliously with coldly critical and disa; proving eyes, or openly express by look and manner their hatred of their envirop. ment and their disgust at the circum. stances which placed them therein. Among the “left-overs’” the other nigh( was a tall and willowy young damsel of haughty carriage, who was crowned wi(y an enormous hat, bepiumed and beboweq in the latest style, and wore upon her shoulders one of the Very “newest” capes, with a storm collar several yards high, Alihough she carried several bundles, it was evident from their appearance and her manner that they contained neither plebeian groceries nor dry goods, but rather, some dainty and breakable articles which their fair purchaser did not care to trust to the untender mercies of a delivery clerk. It was also evident that she wag one of those happy individuals who fee| that between them and the ordinary human being there is little in common, There was an air of [rosty superiority about her which was actually chilling and when she took possession of the coy. ner seat by the door and sat there, | personification of statesque ¢ there were many who forgot their per. sonal sorrows for the moment as th, gazed admiringly at the tip of nose, and wondered Why so loily young woman did not have her o vate conveyance across the bay ins going over in the same boat with com people. Siowly the steamer labored throt darkness, aud deeper grew the gioc the cabin, until it was as thick as a Lon | don fog, and then suddenly, as the end of the trip drew near, the modern Galate: the corner seat awakened into life, [ as though the™spiiit had moved her” a in was to liven things up a little, and she proceeded to do it with & vengeance. Slowly sbe, arose, took a step forward, and then began to dance a mc and lively jig in they the door. She hopred up and dow ing-jack: she pirounetted li mous:; she bentand s i his best days; wi the astonish spectators stared at her open-mouthed, undecided whether to applaud her ap- parent efforts to amuse them or to call for the deckhands to arrest her as an escaped lunatic. Wilder and wilder grew her gyrations. The waving featbers and bows on her big bat suggested an Indian headdress and made her performance seem less like a jie than a ghost dunce. One or two of the ladies had begun to look a little alarmed, when the impact of the steamrer against the dock-piles sent the disciple of Terpsichore seainst the door-jimb, and with one wild, convulsive kick, aimed apparently at the chandelier, the dance came 10 an end and the dancer disappearea ints the darkness outside. Then, and not until then, did the spell- bound onlookers think of disembarking; and as they rose, still wondering whnat it all meant, to begin the usual fight tor pre- cedence, a feminine voice solved the mys- rery. That,”’ said the oracle, ina toue of solemn conviction, “is what comes of rig- ging vourself out in one of them wired skirts and getting vour foot caught in i Fuxeean McVAHON. st ene ot space b e a Javane wayed like Kiral 100 foulards, §1, $1 15, at City of Paris. S Lmatasase “Until the Day Break.” A human soul went forth into the night, Sbutting behind it Death’s mysterious door, NEW arrivals, pieces satin finish And sha ing off with strange, resistless might The dust that once it wore. So swift its flight, so suddenly it sped— As when by skilltui hand a bow is bent The arrow flies—those watching round the bed Marked not the way 1t went. Heavy with grief, their acning, tear-dimmed eyes Saw but the shadow fall, and knew not when, Or in what fair or unfamiliar guise, It left the world of men. It broke irom Sickness, that with iron bands Had bound it fast for many a grievous day; And Love itself with iis restraining hands Might not its course delay. Space could not hoid it back with fettering bars, Time lost its power, and ceased at last to be: It swept by d the boundary of the stars, And touched Eternity. Out from the house of mourning faintly lit, It passed upon its journey all alone; So far not even Thought could foliow it Into those realms unknown. Through the clear silence of the moonless dark, Leaving no footprint of the road it trod, Straight as an arrow cleaving (o its mark, The Soul went home to Goa. “Alas!” they cried, “he never saw the morn, But fell asicep outwearied with the strife”— Nay, rather. he arose and met the Dawn Of Everlasting Life. CHRISTIAN BURKE, in Pall Mall Magazine. ity oot NEw style green serge suifs, bolero jacket, changeable silk front, City of Paris. o — . o 1t is computed that if the traffic of the city of London were to be dispatched by a procession of trains, esch with the en- gine, touching the preceding guard’s van, as far as Liverpool and back, the first to return to Euston would find’ 214,000 per- sons waiting to start. NEW TO-DAY. Imperial Hair Regenerator will make the hair beauti- tul, giossy and natural, no mutter how Streaky BL ACHED or GRAY it It is clean, odorless, last- P ing. 1t does notcontain an JeN) atom of poisonous matter. Baths do not a t it neither does cui g or erimping. Incomparable for the B ARD on sccount of its durability and clean- No. 2, Dark Brown. No. 3, Medium Brown. . 4,Chestaut Li Cuestnut. No. 6, Gold Blonde. No.7. Blonde. Price §1 50 and 00. @ Patentees Sole Manufscturers Imperial Chemical Mis. C & by Drug; Francisco sol , iand Goldstein & ( Sa doomed to be Iate to dinnerand to have that meal served up o them in a frag- mentary, congealed or desiccated state, mauve and black plaid silk. little curves of No artless children enliven this passage by indulging in games of tag through the saloon, tumbling recklessly over cus- pidors and the legs of their inoffensive and uncomplaining fellow-passengers, No dulcet strains of harmony are there to soothe the savage breasts of the belated ones, for the sleek musicians bave shut un shop for the day and are happily feasting on macaroni and oil and sour wine and otber dainties in the bosoms of their re- spective families. LANRECE SYSTEN, The only one by which Yyou can make a garment without trying on. FREE TESTS. Bo it is that, as a general thing, after JEFS 1030 MARKET ST - ! i f