The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, January 31, 1897, Page 22

[ (&) THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, JANUARY 31, 18 Thea tirely novei de wide drap. d match also the pleated ruft su fills up the squ ctte of lavender cloth with has the upper portion gold embroidered brocads roshape ard short enough to display a | on the medleval sleeves are of satin to | porting the Elizabethan frill around the neck. Pleated satin | openings at the top of the bodice. | it ning-wheel, and it is the &p: instance is useful, for its readoption has| ¥r balloon sleeve is over. front of the bodice is finished in the dain- society women something | tiest manner imaginable, with a bow of throat and a jabot of fine cream lace, a second bow of the satin of Wales, and since that time- the | being placed where the jabot ends. e has spread until a fashionable Eng- | gether the composition is a masterpiece, and makes a superb toilette for a woman with dignified earriage. should look a “f not been brought about to ornament the household, but to give our lymphatic and do. The spinning- oduced by the Prin- ome is not comylete without one of i nces. The Duchess of Fife makes use of Ler wheel to spin the yarn with which she aft- ward knits her hasband’s golf stockings, and it can safely be said that next season will see our “upper-ten” bicyelists wearing homemade hose, which, of course, will be far superior in quality to the store goods, even the most expensive kind. For my part I think the fad an excellent 1 one, and every one knows a spinping- wheel is a most decorative object. Embroidered Collars for New | York Swells. “ Our London correspondent writes that a | celebrated London firm has brought out and introduced the idea and design of em- | broidering the collars of gentiemen’s | coats for evening wear. These are being | beautifully worked,’and having seen and examined some of their specimens Iam not surprised to find that they have proved =o attractive that, as I am given to understand, the demand for t ese em- broideries is almost greater than the sup- ply at present. The idea seems to have thoroughly “taken,” and one great merit greatly to be appreciated is that it is not likely to be copied by any but the rich, owing to the increase of expense due to the artistic decoration and desizn. The turned-back collar is lined and covered with a rich black corded silk of the best quslity, and on this is traced original and artistic designs, which are then exqui- sitely embroidered with black silk purse twist, forming a charming decr(alioni when finished. As yet no colors ur!in-] troduced. These embroidered collars should certainly be scen and worn by all those who wish to be up to date in dress. They are a very great improvement on the usuaily uninteresting dress coats that have be¢n worn for so long. A visittoa swell New York tailor has elicited the fact that he has received already a number of orders for thess embroidered collars. New Gowns That I Have thes; T 1 [/ JNGLISH society has now a new fad. | cloth and very full are uf a somewhat dif- Y shade of green. N Dleasing to note that the fad in this | Quite tightly from the shoulder to the Y ¢, a sure warning that the day of the The center of the The sleeves fit white satin at the I suppose that I ght” in it, and I must | contess that [ found some comfort in the | thought. Another gown is made most effective by the graceful use of astrakhan, the skirt being of sapphire blue cloth arranged in a | series of graduat'd panels, each edged | with strips of far running from the waist | to the hem. A deep band of dark blue velvet encircles the waist, the upper part of the bodice being of Chita silk arranged in deep tucks running horizontally and designed to have the appearance of scat- tered cornflower blossoms and green| leaves on a foundation of the palest tea- rose yellow. Strange to say there is noth- ing but the most perfect harmony in these shades. The dainty bodice is half con- cealed under a double bolero of dark blue cloth, each zouave being edged with as- trakhan and cut into a sharp point. The leaves are cut in three leaf-like epau- lettes cut in points like the bolero and edged with a tiny strip of fur. The tailor-made gown of the collection of nut-brown cloth has a skirt that fits close!y to the figure from the waist to the kneces, Itistrimmed just below the knees with thres bands of sable, the fur encir- cling the skirt and the bands being about six inches apart. Below the bottom row of fur 1s placed a full deep flounce of brown cloth, which sets off a pretty foot in & most charming manner. The bodice is made in a tight-fitting shape with | short full batques bordered with sable and neatly cui cloth recers edged with sable and turned back to show a waistcoat of Louis Seize brocade, the floral design being worked out in small silver sequins. This is a model that will su1f almost any re and it is a particularly smart-looking model. There were also two lovoly princess dresses. Now a princess gown is one of the most perfect styles of dress if there is a perfect fizure underneath or if a figure can be mede shapely by judicious pad- ding; but such a garment on a woman who is naturaily anguler ard thin to my mind is & perfect abomination. We in America, [ am pleased to say, are aware of all these things, but Daume Fashion al- lows us to dress accordingly as long as we keep within range of the leading styles. The styles of princess robes are being car- ried over into the summer gowns, and for those who can wear them I cannot rec- ommend anything pre:tier. New Styles in Corsets. No article of apparel owned by women should be so carefully studied as the cor- set, for on itdepends the style and fit of every gown they wear; so let this be care- fully noted, that it has of iate undergone a most decided change, and a very low bust is now a necessity if one would be in the least in style. In fact, many of fashion’s leaders are wearing a French corset which islong below the waist line, but extends | only about three or four inches above that ine, allowing the bust to remain in its natural position, thus imparting beautiful lines to the fizure, unknown during the days when women even of the most gen- erous proportions insisted upon baving their bosoms forced into the most un- natural positions, so that. they protruded from under their chins and gave them a simply dreadfal stuffed appearance, en- tire.y out of keeping with any and all ideas of symmetry, and many & case of cancer may be traced to just such un! { natu:al and absurd methods. I am not writing so plainly because I nave heard of such cases; I positively know of more % ) Y ) ) 2 ) i }Hfl W . | //f/’/% 7 " W ! W ) Al JliN 1| N A than one. And Iam not advocating the banishment of the corset, as I approve of it in most cases; but this new model T bope to see in some of our stores ere long, as the resu'ts to be obtained by wearing it are productive of so much good and are largely appreciated by New York’s best-turned-out women. Calve is said to be responsitle for the change, and besides a very low bust, a perfectly straight line down the front with no curv- ing in at the waist, and an unfettered sprinziness over the hips are demanded of every well-made woman. And now that the best corsets are to be had in at least twenty different models thatinciude a! most every figure, the high and low bust, the small and large hip, the long and short waist, etc., I advise you all to first try and see if you cannot find what you desire *‘ready made,” and this is the first time I have ever giv-n such counsel, as it is a well-known fact that no French Woman ever thinks of incasing herself in a corset not especially made to order, and the results are beyond criticism; but the very worst corset I ever put on was made to order, cost §16, was of piain coutille and did not fitat all, even after being sent back twice for alterations, and besides | was hideously uncomfortable, so 1 sball in future not give any more suggestions of this character; but before purchasing the ready-made article be sure to have 1t tried on by an experienced fitter before having it sent hLome, asinsensibly your figure cbanges and one size larger or smaller means & greater amount of com- fort in many cases; and thls per- formance need not be gone through with frequently, for all who can affora it order at least three pairs at once, as con- stant changes from one to another keeps the fi:ure in proper shape and goes a long way toward preserving the girlish curves and springy outlires of the figure. Al- waye, when possible, change your cor- set for the evening when you do your dress. This used to be a necessity, but with the lowered bust it will be so no longer. However, you will be revaid for your exertion if you do so, as corsets last much longer when not required to do con- stant service. Real wialebones and the best coutille make excelient corsets, which may be had for §6 only. When you can afford it have your corsets match your silk petticoats, as they are both pretty and fashionable, nevertheless it isa great mistake to put all your money into a single puir, for one of the secrets of keeping your figure young and elastic is never 1o allow yourself to wear a corset after it becomes siretched and soiled, 8s a corset is never thoronghiy | satisfactory that has been washed or cleaned, and one writer says in her advice | 1o séciety women and girls concerning corsets: *‘Economize elsewhere rather | than limit yourself to two or three a year. Six corsets, including negligee, bicycle and evening wear, ought, however, to carry one very comfortably through a twelvemonth.” Slender women are made the proper size and shape by little light- weight pads composed of the very finest of fine hair that comes from Paris direct | already shaped so as to fill in every possi- ble gap or scoop in hip, shoulder-blade or bust. These are perfectly adjusted inside the corset. All plump women are wearing the most elastic in stays, that fit almost like the skin, for the day has gone by when heavy cloth, steel and bones are employed 0 compress the flesh in one direction, thus causing it (o bulge out in an absurd manner where it was never intended to obtrude. The weight and thickness of such a corset adds materially to the size and tremendously to the aiscomfort of the unfortunate wearer. Now instead are patronized thin, light-weizht corsets of coutille and whalebouae, built out i all necessary parts with Ruithel elastic, woven like stockinet, but as firm as can- vas. Such stays are low in the bust, long below the waist line, and when necessary slit and laced over the hips, with a band of clastic silk strapped securely over the apdomen. Such models hold the body properly and yet admit of much comfort. Several new modeis bLave lately been SN \“. AN N SRS S NANRN SN NN N PP PORN 1. Evening gown of biack and white striped silk with a floral pattern in white meander- ing down each stripe. The bodice has a vest o roseate silk, lightly draped with lisse, siudded | 5 E: Laidley, with silver sequins, and over each shoulder is & fold of roseate velvet, tied at the top into & bow. Evening dress ot pale pink net over palest pink satin, trimmed with frills edzed with Valenclonnes lace. The bodice is made of pleated net and trimmed with the frills sad iace | X again, tied with ribbon. It is soft =nd zymy to a degree. created in golf and bicycle corsets. One has bands of elastic ribbon under the arms, a broad band of silk elastic over the abdomen, and fastens in front by means of books, over which a lacing passes. An- other is made entirely of bands of elastic ribbon, fitted in at the hips and bast by means of gussets and coutille. Such are very satisfactory for those who never be- come overheated when riding or golfing, but those who verspire freely should se- lect the waist from which the bones may be removed readily, so thatit can be easily washed. The little dainty Empire corsets find many admirers, but these frequently amount to nothing more tnan a bust sup- porter, but are delightful combinations of silk, lace and ribbons. Some are only strips of satin ribbon fitted into the figure by means of boned gussets of satin. Others are of light silk covered with lovely lace, elightly boned, with a tiny frill over the bust gathered in at the top with a ribbon. All are completed with shoulder straps of bright ribbon. Evening corsets are indeed marvels of beauty, and nomberiess are the combinations of embroideries, laces, silks, satins and brocades. MARCELLA. For the Men. Quite remarkable and very ugly are some of the latest hats, some of thederbys being high-crowned and square, others are almost brimless—two absurd extremes. Very foolishly many fashionable tailors early in the season laid in a large stock of satins and brocades, especially white, adorned with flowers and butterflies. These quamt fabrics they have been try- ing 1o dispose of for waistcoats, telling all | their patrons most impressively that they are to be the faskion this scason. How- ever, all their efforts have been in vain, for no well-turned-out man has been seen in one of them. Neither has the ridiculous velvet collar been seen on any correct evening coats. The straight standing collar is now most fashionable, and still the club bow is as much worn as the puff or the four-in- hand. Among the new material for the vuff that having a dark green background sprayed either with buttercups or golden- rod is best liked. Sometimes the flowers are in pink instead of yellow, and occa- sionally minute garlands of flowers or bows of ribbon are shown on appropriate- ly colored silks. Dark blue and red sur- | faces are in great vogue; when adorned | property known as the Bl | with minute designs in either white or |that Mrs. Hinckley bhad black, the smallest of marguerites are el- fective. L‘;aos Van Ness avenue. Athome third Mon- ay. Mr. and Mrs. Charles S. Bier, who recently retusned from Europe, are now occupying the Shilling cottage, southeast corner of frankiin and Geary. At homw onday. Mrs. Arthur R. W r, who has 0 visl! ing friends in this City, has returned to her home in Watsonville. yoIT: 804 Mrs. T, C opping at the A A les Green and child are Nicholas Hotel. s, Henry Martin, will home, 977 § avenue, Oskland, on t d aud taird Thursdays. | oMrs. Willtam B. Bourn leit Saturday for the | Bastern States ou . prolonged visit. | o Judge and Mrs. F. E. Spencer came up from San Jose last Tuesday and passed several days at the Pa.gee Hote Judge W. B. Gilbert is here from Oregon on & visft and is siaying at the Occidental Hotel. S The home,of Mr.and Mre Warren Gregory rightere u y nashris ou Jauuary 21 by the advent Fred Yates, who has been in Honolulu for some time, intends returning here on February 6 by the steamer City of He will ré- main her about three we 7 Loundon, of President Dole, Dr. Hyde, Judge B Colone. C. . Crocker end J. A. returned frorh & visit to Arizons. Dr. M. Hersstein wili leave to-day for Europe, where he will visit the principal ciinics in England, France, Germany and Ause tria for about three months. Miss M. 5. Dole returned to Honolulu Iast Tuesday on the Oceanic steamship Ausiralia. ‘Alired Dunham witl soon leave ior the East and wil. be away about six weeks. Mr. and Mrs. B. D. Murohy of San Jose have been passiug the week at the Californin Hotel, E A. Bresse has reiurned from New York and is at the California Hotel. SAILED AWAY. The Australia Carries Well-Known Passengers to the Islaads. Among those sailing on the steamship Aus- tralia for Honoluiu on Tuesdey, January 26, were: Mrs. J. B. Atherton, Herbert Austin, Walter Austin, Miss S. Beesley, Willam E. Black, 1. G. Camarinos, Thomas Carter, Frank R. Clifton, J. L. Daugherty and wife, Miss H. J. Dickson, Miss M. S. Dole, C. E. Eakin, Mrs. Emmeluth, Mark Ezekiel, Mrs. C. Fairenild, E. T. French, H. A. Greene, E. F. Green, C. A. Griscom Jr, W. Hall, Edgar Henriques, W. M. Hopkins and wife, J Hoover, Mrs. . L. Huston. Mrs. J. D. Jenuings, Mrs. H. Lams: two children, De. D. N. Loose and wife, . Mackay, Fred Manty, Mrs. E. A. Millef, Miss A. Pearce, M. 3. Prator and wiie, J Sempliner, Mrs. J. 2 Henry Stockbridge, muer, 0. H. Wal Dr. G. N.Webber and rin, C. L. Wight ~ Wileox. EATON'S ATTACHMENT. His Proceedings Against Florence Blythe Hinckley Sustained by Judge Belcher. Judge Belcher hus handed down a de- cision in the case of John D. Eaton against Florence Blythe Hinckiey in which the motion for dissolving the attachment against her property is denied. Mrs. Hinckley's attorney contended that the repayment of $25,000 borrowed from Eaton was contingent on the suc- cess of Mrs. Hinckley in securing the vihe block, and not complete legal possession at the time the aiiach- ment was served because several appeals were pending in the Supreme Court. Fur- Brown and drab spots are declared to be | thermore it was urged that the attach- smart. White ones are never seen. ment was improperly issued becanse Patent-leather walking-boots aze always | Eaton had an equitable len on Mrs. buttoned and the toe is round, the tooth- pick style having vanished many moons Hinckley’s interest in the property. Judge Belcher brushes aside these. ob- jections and holds that Eaton is entitled ago. Boottrees of aluminum have long | 1o maintain this course for the purpose of been used in England, and now we annder- getting his money which was furnished siand their many advantages. Among | for the purpose oi carrving on the litiga- others, they occupy a very small amount | tion that finally resulted in securing the of room, are very light and extremely | P t0P <5 durable. C. C. PERSONALS. Dr. and Mrs. E. 5. Breylogle saflea from England for New York on Wednesdsy, Janu- ary 27. Dr. and Mrs. 8. §. Kahn a1rived in New York on the 25th inst. on their return from Europe. where the doctor has been siudying for the st seven months. On Saturday next they eave for San Francisco, where their many friends will be gled to welcome them home. Mrs. J. C. Shsinwala (nee Barnard) is here on a short visit to her parents. She will re- main a few weeks, and is stopping with Mr. and Mrs. Burnard at 1213 Laguna street. Mies Lillic.n Fleisig of Santa Cruz 1s visiting Mr. and Mrs. M. H. Lichtenstein of 2318 Clay street. Mrs. B. Braham Raphecl will be pleased 1o see her friends on the last Thursday of each month at her residence, 1532 Pacific avenue, near Bay station, Alameda. Miss Liner Jonas has moved from 1022 Genry street to 131034 Ellis street. Professor W.T. Ross has returned after an extended vacation iu the country. Mrs. Magnin and daughier have left by the Sunset limited en route to New York. Mr.and Mrs. M. J. Lyon have moved to Blythe estate vroperty for Mrs. Hinckley. Slack’s court yesterday the case was called up and it was acreed that the trial should begin on the 23d of next month. HENDY'S INVALID TRUST. Judge Coffey Recognizes the Demand of Josephine Green in the Hendy Estate. In the Joshua Hendy estate yesterday Judge Coffey declared invalid a provision of the will which attempted to establish a trust fund. In the original draft of the will the tes- tator. declared that Josephine Green should be entitled 1o $5000 in casb, in addi- i tion to other interesis in the estate. A codicil was added directing that the money should be held in trust by Mrs. Green for the benefit of her children until they reached the age of 25 years. Following the decision of the California Supreme Court, Judge Coffey decided that this attempted trust is invalid and the ;)ngmll provision of the will remainsin orce. NEW TO-DA CITYOF DRY GOODS. CLOAKS! Seen. 1t you could only have been at my side when I inspected a number of new gowns that a friend of mine has just brought nome from Paris I am sure the slight spark of envy you possess would have de- veloped into a large-sized flame. They were all marveis of beauty. My friend is noted for her good taste, and under no cir- P cumstances will ever wear anything that is not the very latest style, and bhaving a purse long enough to gratify her whim— as the men call it—she has, of course, a most modern wardrobe, Her recent visit to the gay French capital was made with | the express purpose of inspecting and se- curing the latest models, and in this way she spent two weeks in Paris. The skirts of these gowns are, in nearly every case, most elaborately trimmed. GREAT REDUCTIONS & BLACK JACKETS, Silk Lined................ $2.00 i BLACK AND NAVY JACKETS............... $4.00 TAN AND MIXED CHEVIOT JACKETS...... $5.00 pe AOLEGADES. & ii s e TAILOR-ITADE JACKETS 'XERSEY.oLors:-....$10.00 | OUTING SUITS ",ge3t. $5.00, $8.00, $10.00, $15.00 k This latter style is the only fault that I sm found with the toilettes, and this because ¢ ne; they would not show to advantage the ne: e e Sl el S 2' COUNTRY ORDERS PROMPTLY ATTENDED TO. eli consider the smail woman in giving the 2 sto stamp of approval to any style that is to | VA SE IxABI.A ESPAITOI. cig reign, for there are quite a number of ") tle : them, myself inciuded. pa Dress of Venetian Cloth. G. VERDIER & CO.,, - The first of the gowns I inspected was of | ] Venetian cloth, in a new shade of grass | ba It had three bands of chinchilia s Corner Gear Pee and Grant Avenue Dal of trimming, arranged in deep 1 : o . Eel e points, the bands being about a be quarter of a yard apart and encircling the VILLE DE PARIS—Branch House, 223 S. Broadway, Los Angeles. f skirt in a horizontal direction. The A fl bodice 18 not like anytbing Iever saw be- e R AN me fore. It has a deep corselet of jeweled she passementerie on cream satin, small \ > i s emeralds repeating the green of the cloth, FEE T i o i e O S - ToiLer creav ST i and silver sequins. Sequins, by the way, X The most efiicacious of Skin in are becoming daily more fashionable, ~& ’ ) Foods and Tissue Butid his But to continue with the gown. Below o G s ammended by physiclans for 1is the : s — - ity and efeacy. It remor the jowsled corzlet there are som guaint = o s o X The only one by which ‘ Lot oo SR i ow 1 ittle baques of cloth bordered with chin- | ~ you can make a garment | and renders the skin sofs, smooth, he chilla, while above there isa cloth bolero, EXQUISITE 1897 SUMMER GOWNS. Without trying on. i Thite, Toeu : ed e very trimly cut and edged with chinchilla, 1. Princess gown of blue figured mousseline de I'Tnde over silk. The lace yoke and lower part of sleeves. The ribbon over the shoulders and the sash bow at the back is pale blue. EREBESTS. dieaies. Prioo bicna. Baid b7 the Around the armboles are gray bands of | 3. Embroiderod mull gown pale blue ground with printed and embroidered white figures. Lace yoke and blus talfota neck and waist bsnd, 3. Challie dress white ground and lavender 1231 WARKET ST.|2e8aacimec COAST AGENCY, Room 29, ’ 2 poit gray fur, while epaulettes of plain |figures trimmed with lace ruffles. Lavender satin ribbon at neck and waist, Large pearl butions. - Donohoe Building, 1170 Market 5t., 8. #,