The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, January 17, 1897, Page 26

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, 1897. At the Vaudeville in Paris.| ife in Sar- and as nine The partof the gay little w dou's play is taken by Rejane Doucet has made the dresses, ali ni adorn many an imported dress, as well as hats and bonnets galore. One creation, a white satin gown, had a fringe of violets atthe knees, and at the hem large.bunches of the same adorned each shoul®r of the Yaris is in a commotion, so lovely and ‘:m\]:ce. which was also of satin, embroid- chic are they Imagine the charms of | ered with diamonds. one composed of velvetof a rosy hue; the | Bodice forming the vest is braided with a | Somne of the Very Newest warm (‘,“‘nr in 1.110 shade-known as wine “Tuiieues are made of fine net, spotted with oolor e Scoians L owies heavily | ook chenille, over white satin. They are braided, and consists of two veivets—the | o c 2 B G OO e S neive, e interior rose, the exterior mauve. The ||, o voy can utilize an old ball dress for bodice isattached at the waist with “xd(f 1 e Tonadntine G idiass aaTatt folds of the mauve velvet and finished at | oot WIACE T C SRR AR, S8 RO the neck with a cascade of old lace. | Truly delightful is a costume of beige cloth, which is embroidered with white chenille. So exquisitely is this done that it gives the effect of white roses scattered and quite as becoming. Speaking of enadines reminds me that some pink and blue ones have just been desizned for the especial use by the debutantes, but one serious fault to be found with them over the gown. The 1'{3,“‘ P eien | is that in texture they are rather harsh. princesse, the front and the sides being | “qp, spotted net, commercially alluded 1to a wide band of yellow velvet, w v velvet c they are draped arm; a quantit of chemisette, zevers in the c There is also a cape in mauve velvet trimmed with an empiecement of chin- chilla, a border of the same fur at the edge of ihe cape, and a collar of gray fox | filled in with white tulle. From the chin- chiila empiecement there are folds of vel- vet falling to the border of the fur, and npon each fold is a white lace palm edged with black feathers. Rather complicated, mposes th the upper part of the | d off with two small red velvet. { { | is it not? But we must not forget that it | bad to be something out of the common t0 suit the situation. Remember, the lady is supping in a restaurant with her husbana! Her hat must also not be for- gotten. It is formed of alternate gaugings of ‘mauve mousseline de soie and velvet, caught up on one side with bunches of Parma and Russian violets and pink car- nations. From these issue an aigrette of orchids and mauve violet irises, and you can have no idea of the lovely toque this combination of color and material makes. Toilette upon the stage isone of the ele- ments of success. So no wonder the great dressmakers take such pains in the evolu- tion of charming creations. Evening Dresses. | | Quite lately one made in empire style | was a success. From a broad beit of silver | over a white satin lining, with a beanti- ful fringe of pink roses on the hem, fell softly the most dainty slip of creamy | white mousseline de soie. The great sash of white satin had both ends bordered with roses. Russian net is being extensively used, and one evening frock is trimmed with flounces threaded with white satin ribbon as iar as the knees; the flounces are used with good results, being put on so that they slope downward in the front and reach almost to the waist m the back. Exaetly bow this is managed I do not quite understand. I only can assure you that the effect is good. Bodices draped | th this net admit of but few variations, as all must either have the swathed ap. | pearance or the fabric must overhang the belt. An admired swathed bodice shows av the top a chemisette of the finest white muslin and Valenciennes iace. It istied on the shoulaers with very narrow pale blue ribbon. Another of the same description of black silk net has a broad picce of elaborate | eel embroidery 2t the top, and by thel 1 | | vay, steel is considered extremely be- coming to a white neck, when used in combination with black; with a touch of mauve at one side, violets are also fre- quently utilized, and these sweet flowers are as amazingly popular as ever, for they | | row ruffles of to as “esprit” net, is more effective than the plain, and the largze-meshed Russian variety deserves its popularity, and again are lace skirts declared to be fashionable when the luce is of the finest quality, but oddly as it seems, the edge is to be coarsely worked and trimmed with nar- ribbon. The amount of material used in one model recently shown was simply marvelous. Just below the hips a very full flounce of the laces I have alluded to was gathered from a double ruching, while at the knees the pattern of the lace was outlined with three hittle quillings of pink satin. The same trimming appeared at the hem. At least twelve yards of lace was used. Fur in General Use. It even figures conspicuously in an evening robe; for instance, a deli Nile green satin, beautified with pearls. has deep frillings of lace headed and edged with sable one inch in width. Great bunches of violets apparently hold it 10 place on the skirt and bodice. A pearl-white moire velvet, a queenly gown made princess style, is possessed of un- { usual charms, for down the front extends a piece of priceless lace, with just the amount of fullness necessary for perfect grace, and bordering this on either side extend long strips of “royal sable,” and this regal fur also edges the gar- ment. A beautiful arrangement of lace and fur encircles the wearer's (she is a beautiful grandmother) neck and here and there among the folds of lace peep the most attractive of little sable heads, some of which have eyes of real rubies, some ot emeralds and one has iamond orbs. I cannot begin to do justice to this simply perfect work of art, which is rather bevond the means of most of us, still it appeals to me like a beautiful picture which it wouid be impossible to pass by witbout an exclamation of pleas- ure. But before quite dismissing this gown let me tell you that it is lined thronghout with the palest mauve taffeta, a full ruche of which borders the trained skirt; the lace front is draped over satin of exactly the same mauve shade, and over this is also arranged the quaint collar-like yoke of lace and sable, and among the coils of silvery hair just let me suggest a tiny sable’s head with eyes of amethysts, Creations in velvet are by no means un- usual and connoisseurs declare that for evening wear but few colors show to such an advantage in velvet as a light and tender vink covered all over Wwith tiny silver fleur-de-lis: — Bluette and poppies, colored or in black, are worked on many satin gowns, and several of the tulles and lace that are embroidered in pailletes and gold thread are still employed as French trimmings on many of the fronts and backs of low- cnt bodices. Black lace worked with true- lovers' knots and steel and gold inter- mixed with turquoises of various sizes trimmed most successfully & handsome gown, Quite striking and very becoming to a handsome brunette is a scarlet crepe de chine. The bodice has innumerable ruches and revers of black and white check. The white mousseline de soie cravat is edged with a narrow frill of the same. Satin Remaing in Favor And from it are made many beautiful garments. One of the loveliest of evening gowns was completed the other day, the skirt being traced with pearls and silver. The same application was made to the bodice. In‘front it is very loose and is so arranged as to reveal an underbodice and shoulder-straps of real lace. From Paris comes quite a magnificent creation, which is to be worn at a large dinner party this season. It is of shaded velvet. At the bottom of the skirt it is of a dark, rich shade of velvet, but the waist is of the palest mauve. In the waist lace and sable are so skilifally handled that the re- sult is wonderfully good and chic. Those who are fond of black for evening wear have shown a preference lately for velvet, as the black watered bengalines are not near so successful as those in white, cream, light pink or pale blue, but quite an unusual number of the most fashionable matrons have shown a prefer- ence for gray watered bengaline, as with rare old lace, fine sable and a touch of silver embroidery, truly wonderful are the results, especialiy when worn by a woman with a bright color and a clear skin. Sallow women and brunettes should carefully avoid almost every shade of gray. A matron of my acquaintance lately exploited with signal success the charms of a white satin dress heavily covered with jet embroidery, long lines of jet sequins 1alling from the waist to the hem of this, and the coat bodice of Louis Seize order was entirely covered with jet sequins showing a vest cut square at the top and made of a scarf of lace twisted into a bow. This was completed for theater wear with an Empire coat of black satin lined with white satin with a sable collar tied round the neck with a scarf of old lace, and the matron, who was really a matron owning to some fifty summers, looked quite charming. Wraps for the Opera. Concerning opera cloaks, an Euglish correspondent furnishes this valuabie in- formation: “These have become a most costly and important partof dress. We the Venetian mantl:s of medieval times, but that is passing away as far as high | fashion is concerned. The newest, thongh | have had for some time a reproduction of | round the high crown with puffings of entherin the front or through its outer covering. All the collars are high, but they are filled in with soft bouitionnes; this is most becoming to the chin and neck. And Iam delighted with a half-length theater wrap of white silk broche with colored roses. Itis made full and basque- like in the back and simply immense loose open sieeves that extend well ovar the waist. Round the shouldersis a pretty hood lined with rose pink velvet from which rises a high Medicis collar of the same. Itis edged everywhere with sable, which makes it a costly wrap. The lining is of rose pink satin. Widows’ Wedding Gowns Are usuzlly now made of velvet and this season the most fashionable have shown a preference for either gray, heliotrope or | dark blue. Such dresses are generally made long with Louis XV jackets and handsomely embroidered satin waistcoats, | a considerable amount of vinate embroid- ery being permissible. Silver gray poplin trimmed with fur 1s aiso liked by some. A small and exquisite bonnet with a be- coming veil is usually worn. The lllustrations This week are of unusual intesest. The ‘‘Astrakan Jacket” has a close-fitting vest, short rounded basque and high Macaire collar in black Persian lamb, fastened with military frogs and horn or tortoise- | shell olivettes. Scrolls of the same braid | are conspicuous on the sleeves. The **Afternoon Costume” is described as being *'a gown of red cloth, elaborately embroidered on the skirt, and close-fitting | bogice with black braid, jet and silk. | Chemisette in pleated silk muslin. Co- quilles of lace on either side of the draved collar in black satin, like the belt. Mous- quetaire hat in black velvet, trimmed | zold tissue and chenille braid; plumes of | black ostrich tips.” The artistic evening hodice s carried out they reach from the neck to the feet in an | in yeilow chiffon over pink glace silk, unbroken line, and are wide at the hem, | headed with a pointed band and tiny silver are cut most carefully to the figure, re- | sequins and boasting a bolero and shoulder taining all the grace and style which a | puffs of daffodil and sunset-pink glace, good carriage entails; the heavy folds and | box-pleatings are attached to yokes,which were in favor in the middle ages. The redundancy of ornament, the masses of lace and fur introduced upon them, have | but graceful embroidery carried down the front, also under the arms, and down the center of the flowing Watteau which starts between the shoulders in a point instead | of @ thick box pleat, and it is so contrived that it blends into the material and does not stand out from it too boldly to detract from the beauty of the dominant fabric, which is generally the softest of moires lined with some coior that asserts itseli given place in the newer make to light | | with a sprinkling of silver sequins and an | edging of narrow mink. Sequin-edged | rufiles finish the yellow ch ffon sieeves, | and two large paste buttons complete the | | front of the bodice. Dressing-Gowns. | Beautiful ones may nowadays be owned ‘i by even the least well off of us, for eider- ‘ down and French flannels are obtainable | at such extremely low prices in most fetch- ‘ ing shades. For instance, take a gray | eiderdown, have it made up fuli and loose, the fronts crossing, with a watteau pleat in the back and a short train and a deep rolling collar of whatever color is most | becoming. The opsn sleeves must be faced with this silk and the girdle or rib- bons encircling the waist match. Let the upper part and sleeves be lined, and you bave a garment which will prove a real comfort. Materials of silk and wool are excellent, likewise. . All are made with sleeves, which are wide at the wrists and arm- holes, for dressing gowns should be so constructed that they can be stipped off oron in a second. Those of French flannel may be charmingly pretty if a little judi- cious care is manifested in their selection, then let the flower, fizure or stripe be matched in ribbons and with here and there a frill, the results are all that can be desired. Two sets of muslin or lace ruf- fles should be always made, so that the gown may from first to last impart that air dainty women desire. Dslicate shades and colors are now universally worn in our bedrooms, for no longer are hideous browns and reds tolerated by even those matrons who have to give due considera- tion to expenses, for especially do Ameri- cans love the beautiful in all things, and who would look like an Indian squaw by attiring herself in a blanket wrapper of red with black stripes when at a most rea- sonable figure can be had flzecy gowns of white, blue or pink, with great silken cords and tassels that drape the figure most gracefully and will last with the smallest amount of care a long time if seat once or twice to the cleaner’s during the year? There are some exceedingly pretty striped velours flannels to be obtained in the market, and the prettiest way of mak- ing these is with a pointed hood, open sleeves and a silken girdle. An effective trimming to such gowns may be made of quilled ruchings of satin ribbon, these to border the hood and the sleeves, and edge the fronts down either side about three inches from the center; and again ruch- ings may be allowed with advantage to extend round the bottom three inches A pale mauve and gray- striped velours flannel treated in this fashion, with pale mauve ribbons, is most effective, and another very pretty combi- nation is pale blue and pink. One ot the economies of this flannel'is that it needs no lining, although in confidence I may observe that it is very much improved by one of pongee. which is of all materials the most delightful to slip on over the lawn or linen nightgown. Many who are very cold-blooded prefer the oriental dressing gowns wadded and quilted, made, lined and embroidered with silk, as they are extremely light and comfortable. However, I warn any of you who have in contemplation such a purchase that a large per cent of those on sale are made of a most inferior silk that from the hem. | wears out rapidly, and unless you .are ready to spend a good round sum fora superior garment they are to be avoided, and in the end it is more satisfactory to have two or three gowns of a light-weight silk and wool at half the outlay. MARCELLA. For the Men. As the interest in golf is increasing in this City it is well to know that plain knitted golf stockings, with a bright pat- tern on the part that turns over, are among the latest importations from Lone don direct. Such stocking are made in dark browns, grays and fawas, but the grays and browns are best liked. Apropos of golf, Him, who is now in the coun- try, near New York, amusingly remarks: “Even New York has caught the Scotch fever, and out here they play golf in the snow and wear absurd plaid ties and read the Bonnie Brier Bush of a Sunday. “But before I had left New York the Scotch and the French and the Conti- nental bizarre ideas had all vanished. Men are not wearing gaudy neckties. “To-day the man of fashion affects white ascots, made for him, and now and then he wears a black or one figured. Even the waistcoat of brilliant hue, seen to perfection after the horse show, has faded away. Here in the country, how- ever, we do things differently. We are in mufti. Our golf stockings reflect the hnes of the rainbow, the tartan and the heather, and our knickers are of honest tweed, with a dash of color as fascinating as just a suspicion of absinthe in a cock- tail or the passing near of the garlic in a bowl of salad.” ‘With evening dress the waistcoat almost universally worn is white Marseilles or pique, double breasted, three buttons, and U-shape, with a narrow collar around the U. White silk and pongee in its natural color have been fashionable, and even white silk waistcoats, with small flower, in white applique, have been worn. The threatened introduction of black satin waistcoats for wear with Tuxedo coats has proved a faise alarm thus far. G A STRANGE SNAKE STORY The following story is related b_v.E. N. Ellis of Ruron, Kings County. Ellisisa foreman on the Gosben branch of the Southern Pacific Raiiroad and his renlu- tation for veracity is uqimpeacbab e. Some months ago we had in our home a peculiarly interesting canary bgrd, a z‘reat songster and a prime favorite in the er; ily. The bird was prized very highly an his sudden taking off was much the same ¢ e as losing a member of the fami 2 “One night, long after the family had me from a sound cage where he had entered were pressed aside, showing that he had used consider- able strength in order to force an entrance. “1t was no easy task to extricate the snake from the cage, and when released it did not take me long to dispatch the rep- tile. By actual measurement he was four feet long, and how he entered the house, which is screened, and then carried his length up the wall to the bookcase, is still to me a mystery." —ho\ie s Ghange. With him she strolls the shelving sands, retired, my wife awoke v slumber and said she thought something was wrong with the bird, as ig was flutter- ing and making a great noise. !nrase- thinking pernaps my wife was mistaken or that possibly our troublesome cat had been 1-ft in the house and was frightening the canary. The cage containing the bird swung from a small crane fastened to the side of the room. “Near the cage was a small banging bookcase containing a few volumes. The distance between the cage and the book- case as they hung on the wall was just twelve inches. “I procured a light and passing into the room to my astonishment saw an immense bull snake, with at least ten inckes of his length thrust into the cage. The bird was dead, as I was too late to prevent his snakeship from striking. ©In some way, unknown to members of my family, the snake had entered the house, and in order to reach the cage he had first drawn himself up the wall until his length had rested on the bookcase, then passing his head across the space separating the cage from the bookcase he had forced his ugly visage into the cage and struck the bird. The wires in the Or walks the woodlands airy; He seems to be a hero bold, And she to him some fairy. Fair Cupid’s marked them for his own, And s00n their troth is plizhted; She smiles on him, he smiles on her— Two souls fore’er united. e e . . Of Iate there’s been a sudden change, In love’s uncertain weather; The tender 100ks, the smiles, the jests, Have vanished altogether. She hardly says & word to him; Ho walks with sternest carriage; 1 wonder if they've had a tff, Or is the trouble—marriage? Harlem Life, A Fly-Lieaf Poem. [To a little girl with a storyHook—"Wymps" by Evelyn Sharp.] Here, in this book, the wise may find A world exactly to their mind. From fairy kings to talking fish, There’s everything such persons wish! Sweeter little maid than you Never read a story through. Through a sweeter little book Little meid shall never look. WILLIAM WATSON fn London Academy. NEW TO-DAY--DRY GO JDS. URTAIN DEPARTMENT! Broken lots of 2 to 4 pairs of a pattern of IRISH POINT, BRUS- SELS AND NOTTINGHAM CURTAINS to be closed out at a GREAT REDUCTION to prepare for stock-taking. TAPESTRY AND CHENILLE PORTIERES, in odd lots of 1 and 2 pairs of a pattern, To Close at Startling Reductions. Balance of our RUG STOCK, consisting of Wilton, Daghestan, La Paris and Bundah Rugs—also Ingrain Art Squares—size 9 feet by 9 feet, At Immense Reductions. 300 yards of SATIN TAPESTRY, value at 45¢c and 60c. To 30 Per close at AR C vara 250 yards of SATIN TAPESTRY, suitable for furnlture cov- Par OFinE or drapery, value at 758, To close at... 50c $3ra Balance of our stock of PLAIN ART DENIMS, best quality, 121 Per 36 Inches wide. 1o close at.. o COUNTRY ORDERS PROMPTLY ATTENDED TO. S8B ETABIL.A ESPANOI.. G. VERDIER & CO,, SE. Corner Geary Street and Grant Avenae. VILLE DE PARIS—Branch House, 223 S. Broadway, Los Angeles. GULDEi il LAWRERCE SYSTEM, The only one by which BAZAARR™ REDUCED . you can make a garment without trying on. FREE TESTS. 1231 MARKET §T. CAB FARE. Even the poor can ride as well as the rich. Baby Carriages. THE - WEEKLY CALL It Publishes the Cream of the News of the Week and MANY ATTRACTIVE AND ORIGINAL FEATURES, ITIS THE BEST WEEKLY -PAPER ON THE PACIFIC COAST Always Republican, but Always Fair and Impartial in Its Rendering of the Po- litical News, It’s the Papsr to Send East if You Want to Advertise California. W7 e s | All our Carriages “have®Varnished: Bodies, Steel Wheels and Patent Brake. All Carriages over $9.00 have Patent Hubs, | RUBBER TIRE, STEEL WHEELS. I Parasol Top, Reed Body, 1 Sateen, steel wheels . Food Top, full size Kattan nred Sateen, novelty wheels . Parasol Top, opt fabric, stéel wheels and springs. ‘Hood Top, Reed body. uphoistered - urea Sateen. steel wheels and springs..8$7.00 ‘Hood Top, Reed body. upholstered in Derby Cloih with Plush . $7.90 | Hood Top, Eattan body, upholstered in Tap- ! estry with Plush roll, RUBBER TIR¥ | STEEL WHEELS. 9.50 ‘ Inaddition we have a largs assortment of | Hood and Parasol Top Carriages in newest de- signs of bodies and upholsteries, selling up to | $30 each. We make a specialty of Carriage Repairiag. | frecklesand tan, prevents wrinkles | and readers the skin soft, smooth, olear, ami whie N 1 Snsds.chagpedTins, sod many Shia 'rice 50 cents. Sold by 55! And at PACIFIC COAST AGENCY, Room 29, Donohoe Building, 1170 Market 8t., 8. F. Istered y, The Best i Mining Telegraphic ™\ News That Service on Is Accurate &up to date The Coast SRR o AR Not a Line of it Sensational or Faky, and Not a Line of it Dry or Uninteresting. APAPER FOR THE COUNTRY FIRESIDE: Bright, Clean, A Champlon of Thoughtfui. . Truth. A CALIFORNIA NEWSPAPER ALL THE TIME. The most efoacious of Skin Foods and Tissus Builders is reo- ommeeded by physicians for its purity and eficacy. It remores IT ADVOCATES SENT BY HOME MAIL, $1.50 INDUSTRIES A YEAR. THE CALL SPEAKS FOR ALL