The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, January 3, 1897, Page 22

- but alarmingly expensive. . take, is of some light soft stuff, such as - all women; ** impression that it is fashionable, when, in - reality, a dark shade of red is the dernier THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, JANUARY 3, 1897. Necog, MN@;}?.‘R@@«(\W\ oo The Reefer. In Paris the reversible reefer is enjoying a great vogue, being a smart as well as a practical jacket. It is short, light in| weight, with a touch of color in the collar, revers and hood. These jackets are in | dark blue, some with gray and while lin- | ings, some with red and black checks; in | golden brown, with light fawn checks; in dark green, with plaid lining. The neat little strap shaping the waist and gold buttons give an effective touch. They are | worn over black velvet or cloth skirts, with & small toque, with a wing to-match the color of the hood, etc, East-such cos- tumes will be much worn for skating, end | the zowns of fine black cloth, having per- | fectly plain skirts with boleros composed | of a bright cloth, covereda completely with | fine black silk brald, are most popular in New York, as are also suits in dark green | ana Bishop violet, with numberless rows of black silk braxd from the waist to the hem of the skirt. The jackets have a | beautiful cut, which can only be given by | a first-class tailor. Tartans are going to be most extensively , one irock of a dark green plaid being gspecially chic, and the lining of such creations must always repeat the color of one of the str In the case of | the reefer suits the skirts are always lined | witis a silk which matchea the lining of the | hood, etc., and the black cloth skirts have | linings that are of the exact tone of the boleros, and speaking of skirts reminds me that balayeuses are things of the past, as they huve proved in many cases ex- ceedingly unsatisinctory. They are quite super: by a box pleating of satin rib- bon a couple of inches in wiath. What a relief after our pinched out flouncings in 1affetas that were always snagging and | aying. Velvet Dresses. These are owned by every fashionable Wwoman and the latest are quite delightful, The plain vel- wet skirt must be trimmed with innumer- | able rows of silken braid, graduating from the front half way up the pack, and either a sacjacket treated in u similar fashion or & bolero will complete such a skirt, In allcases the vest, or front, or shirt, whichever form the underbodice may lisse, or lace, or both, and this is a good idea, as the touch of light is becoming to especiaily when the coatis | faced with some dark fur is the introduc- | tion of the diaphanous of special use ana beauty. Gowns of Crimson Cloth. Tt is really a deplorable fact that many women insist on choosing bright cardinal as the color for their costumeés under the criin Paris, and this is charmin either when braided by hand to match, trimmed with gray chincbilla or braided in black, and then trimmed with black astrachan. An Eaglish correspondent thus speaks of a tailor-made suit in this fashionable | shade: | Another rezson why I am very much in | love with dark red is the charm of a cos- tume with a skirt of face cloth, the front seams braided with a flat braid about haif an inch wide, twisted in coils round the base and narrow up toward the waist, completed with a coat covered with lines of braid, of the sac shape, but one‘inch be- low the waist. This has a Medisi collar at the back and facings of chinchilla, while the sleeves are braided in straight lines, and the hat, which completes it, is of dark red felt, somewhat of the boat shape, with the bnim covered with a full pleating of violet velvet, shaded violet and red roses being beneath the brim at either side, while over the crown waves a double plume of black. It was an admirable costume truly, and most admirably worn. A young eirl in this City looks exceed- ingly well in a crimson camas hopsack material, the skirt of which is trimmed about the knees with three rows of black ribbon velvet. The bolero is of the same material, edged and braided with exceed- ingly narrow black velvet. The bolero js fastened from the bust to the waist with small ornamentai fastenings made of vel- vet. It is just short enough to show a | waistband of black velvet. The revers are of black velvet, hemmed with astrachan. A handsome visiting toilette is of vne of the newest reps, dull red in tone, coverea with an overfigure of black brocade, the velvet bodice being trimmed with galon and pleated lisse, Other excellent models are worthy of our profound consideration, as many ideas are suggested by them. One there is in black, the coat faced with green mcire silk in tucks, with a httle frill of lace showing at tbe top, and a large coliar of chinchilla. This is elab- orately braided ina somewhat novel de- sign, which extends down the seams in the front of the skirt, while the skirt | which completes the costume is of green | moire set into groups of triple tucks, the center box pleat being adorned with oxi- dised and diamond buttons, and outlined on either side with a kilted frill, winle at the neck a black collar turns over a stock made of green. A dark gray cloth coat and skirt are in excellent taste, the coat cut away in the front at the waist and showing at the back. a closely tabbed basque. This has a chinchilla collar wnd a belt of white elaborately embroidered. A dark blue dress exploits braids all over | the coat, which has a collar of black as- trachan, and is completed with a bodice| of the dark blue cut in one with lone epaulettes and overhanging a deep corse- let of miroir green velvet. Quite delight- ful is a bodice, which might be allowed to0 pose as a coat; it reaches but to the waist, is made of turquoise blue miroir velvet, with large stripes of hand-made lace over the shoulders, and’ it has draped revers and sleeves of mink. Creations Noted in Paris. Mme. Legrand resides in Paris, but she dresses with so much taste and orlginality that now and then one of her toilettes is described for our benefit. For example, she recently wore a toiletts consisting of a light-gray cloth skirt, accordion pleated, and round the foot ran & wide band of braiding. The braid was not sewed on evenly, being irregular at the edge; the bedice mutched and had an arranzement in front of gray velvet, enhanced with spangles. Over this was a collet of black astrachan, embroidered with spangles dresses of crepe de chine, one white, the skirt long and flowing, the bodice draped across and drawn into a deep corselet of gold lace, embroidered with raised gold, long wide draped sleeves, the high neck cut in a small square and bordered with dull gold embroidery. The second, made nearly the same, was silver eray, with the embroidery and raised work in_silver; the third was pale yellow, ornamented on the bodice with draperv a l'antigue of white lace; the skirts all plain. For evening dress, a pale yellow satin; on the left side of the skirt was a quille of silver em- broidery, on which were placed narcissus flowers of white crepe with diamond cen- ters, and the veinsof the petals marked with a silver thread. The low bodice was ornamented with same design but smaller placed in the rich lace that formed the berthe and sleeves; the waistband was folded satin, outlined with large dia- monds. Ancther beautiful evening dress was pale pink damas with a pattern of laurel leaves entwined, and here and there small wreaths embroidered in dia- monds, long skirt, low blouse bodice of damas and lace, and the laurel leaves cut out and appliques on the lace and stud- died with diamonds, a most skillful piece of work. The third is Ophelia green satin made with trained skirt and two wide quilies descending from the hips to the edge of the skirt in a point. This beautiful em- broidery is composed of smalil spangles and silver beads mingled with diamonds; the top of the quille 1s surrounded with white crepe like a cloud. The low bodice is ornamented with crossed berthes of embroidery, formine festoons round the shoulders. A splendid evening cloak is of | Genoa velvet, blue and mauve flowers on a green satin ground; the sleeves sre im- mense and looped up; the whole finlshed with sable and rich lace. Even these few lines, written immedi- in style, see that your collar fits, sets and suits you perfectly MARCELLA. Stylefi;.Men. The sweilest pocket-books this season are made of pigskin, and if there is any silver used about them it mnst be per- fectly plain and sohid, as I am pleased to say repousse work for such purposes is out of date. If a monogram or crest is used it must be engraved. i An unusually good assortment of socks, gloves and tiesis to be had at our leading haberdashers. The dressing-gowns and smoking-jackets made of bright Scotch plaid materials are liked. Speaking of overcoats, rough cloths are being much used for them, and melton is not so well liked as beaver. Such a coat is made moderately loose and has a velvet collar. It should be single-breasted, and the front must be a fly one. In length it comes to just about two inches below the knee. Only two outside pockets and a small one additional for change, eic., are considered necessary. There must not be any flaps, and the pockets should be one on each side of the garment, but not a breast one. A coat of dark brown beaver is declared to be more useful than a black or blue one. New Yorkers as yet show no desire to adopt the fancy waistcoats, which have been so much discussed of late. I see that the ties for evening and semi- evening wear are wider and broader. Of course they must be tied by the wearer, made-up aftairs being an abomination. Him writes to Vogue: “I must again state that never has there been 2 season in which there were fewer novelties. The minds of a number have become somber, and the popular taste seems to ran to black. We had a very short run of the | brilliant Scotch plaids and tweeds, and to- | day itis rare to sec even a bright brown | on the streets. Black serges and tweeds and the reefer (which has gained unex- he 1s disappearing as surely as the game which he has hunted. In the greatnorth- ern belt of the States bordering upon the Canadian line he is found in dwindling numbers, vainly striving to make a living in his precarious calling and bemoaning the times when it was an easy matter to find enough animals in his traps each day to keep him supplied with money. "It is now the work of a week to gather the skins that formerly came to his trapsin a day. Y The popularity of furs has not declined. In fact, they are more in demand than ever, and fashion decrees that they shall be worn every winter on garments for men and for women. Most of them com- mand a higher price than ever in the bis- tory of civilization, but the trapper does not profit as much by this change as might be supposed. The fur-bearing ani- mals are disappearing faster than the prices for the furs advance. Other unset- tled regions of the globe are being ex- plored to help supply the markels of the world with skins and science is doing everything in its power to utilize the common skins of the domesticated ani- mals. The fur of the cat, dog, sheep, lamb and other animals of our barnyard and house- hold has already become valnable com- mercially, and through the dyer’s art and ihe currier’s skill the wearers of cheap furs are totally deceived. It is not an easy matter to ascertain the relative value of the important furs, but those taken from the forests and woods of, this country are much higher than in former days. The silver fox, that abounded so plentifuliy in our Northern woods, is now & comparatively rare ani- mal, and from $100 to $200 is paid for first-class specimens. The darker the fur of the silver fox the more valuable it is, and consequently the farther north the trappers go the better luck they have. Those over the Canadian border trapsmore and better silver foxes than can be found anywaere in the United States, although Northern Maine and the Michigan penin- sula have yielded some excellent silver foxes. Owing to the great demand for this far, the animals have been trapped and hunted so persistently that they are very scarce and the few remaining ones aze more timid and harder to catch than the common red fox. Bear skins generally come next to the furs of the silver foxes, and they run all the way from $40 to $75 aviece for the raw fur. Dealers grade the skins according to their idea of the value, and the trapper is not always sure that he wilt receive the Figure 1—Pompadour. Figure 2—Marie Stuart. NEW STYLES OF HAIRDRESSING. Figure New Ball Headdross. Figure 4—New Evening Headdress. Figures 5 and 6—Two Novel Coils for the top of the head as the bair is now worn. and gold; above this a collar of guipure and a high-standing collar, which was filled 1n with a mass of cream lace round the head. A black satfn bonnet, with pink roses, gave the finishing touch, but from the description madame must possess certainly a swan-like neck, as it is difficult to understand without seeing this creation exactly the effect; however, it must be de- lightful, as was likewise one of dark blue ribbed velvet, which has a plain skirt and a blouse bodice, in the center of which there 1s & fulling of pale biue crepe plisse drawn in, with a belt of dark tan leather, studded with cabachons; over this was worn a large cape of rich sable. The wearer’s bonnet has a red velvet crown and is trimmed with black ostrich feathers; ti e muff of feathers and velvet exactly matches; pearl gray gloves were worn. A fair countess when attired in iron-gray velvet with a violet velvet blouse, ornamented with bretelles, em- broidered with shaded silks and spangles is said to be most picturesque. A cascade of real lace extends down the front, and a simply huge ruff composed of lace, velvet and nbbon encirctes her throat. With this goes a huge-crowned hat of black satin finished with a tersade of velvet and piumes and tan kid gloves. Worn by Great Actresses. All Paris is flocking to the Renaissance, | for Sarah Bernhardt, as Alfred de Musset's Lorenzaccio, is attracting not only the social world, but also celebrities from among the great artists and the most noted literary men of the day. Both cos- tume and scenery are very fine, and thus far concerning Berahardt’s apparel I can only report that she wore a black silk embroidered tunic, which bad fu!l sleeves of black sBtin. Her breeches were short and-the long biack cloak was suspended from one shoulder. “She was an ideal Lorenzaccio; the deathly pallor of her face, ber short waveless hair, all helped to make the portrait of that Florentine Hamlet complete.” La Duse, I am glad to hear, has ordered from Worth many of the elegant costumes which she wiil wear soon in the different plays in which she so soon expects to ap- pear. Some are thus described by a cor- respondent who has just paid Worth's es- tablishment a visit: There were three | ately after examining such delightful con- ceptions, sbound in valuable idea and sug- gestions. Naturally, the first night Sarah Bern- hardt presented “Lorenzaccio,”” the fair damesin the audience were gorseously appareled. Any number of dresses were composed of crepe de chine in various light shades, such as in gray maize, helio- | trope, etc., these three being for the mo- | ment raost liked for evening wear. Almost ail liad gauged sleeves puffed at theshoul- ders, and draped bodices over white lace | square empicements. Many of these so- | called blouses worn were of velvet. -Mme. Feydeau’s bodice was especially admired, being of a 1ettuce-green 'velvet, opening over a chemisette of old guipure upon pale blue satin. The collar was also of gnipure over satin, with pleated blus satin riobon standing out from the throat in imitation of the ancient ruffle. JAs to Collars. The greatest attention is being expended upon collars. They are being made ofa piece of velvet cf some pale or bright shade, according to the fancy or the color- ing of the wesrer, and measure a quarter of ameter ia width and are cutcn the bias, the ends being zauged into the height required atthe back and fastened with books and eyes. Then they are beaded all over with either steel, shaped like small nail heads, or with ordinary seed pearls. The ruff is attached from the sides, so it leaves the throat bare. Itis made of satin ribbon or creamy white chiffon, edged with Valenciennes lace, which is 6f the same tone. One of the fa- orite colors employed in geranium pink velvet, studded with pearls, with a ruff of chiffon. These collars were got out by a Parisian house to sell during the holidays at $3 each, and were so popular that it was found impossible to meet the great demand, as many were purchased as Christmas gifts. So we may expect to see them here ere long, s our clever women will soon be able, from this:brief descrip- tion, to evolve some becoming ones. On some of the swellest jackets are seen high chinchilla collars or the 1830 collar in black velvet; but a woman is made or unmade by her collar, quite as much as a manp, so do, if you would be in the least pected popularity) are the only new things so far that the winter has given us. The square derby hats have been affected by a number of men, but I think they are hid- eous. A few very large and stout men, however, can wear these; but as for others, they should avoid them—but, of course, they won't. In ties there are absolately no new de- signs. Kverywhere it is the black, dark blues and greens with the same little white figures sprinkled over them, or here and there by way of a variation the same designs in yellow and red. The ascots; are very much less puffed and the aprons meet at a very sharp angle. Ireally believe that the greatest novel- ties are in dressing gowns and 'pajamas. These are of all hues of the rainbow and the stripes of bright yink and blue are much wider than formerly and in -the former are of that staring hue that-one sees in the old-fashioned cream candy. Collars continue upright and the all-round turn-down is not as much in vogue as it was during the autumn. 5 Smart men have entirely given up the Hombourg hat, for the gray with the black cloth band has been seen in the Bowery for some time past, so naturally this style has been abandoned. C. C. The Passing of the Trapper and Trailer Among the changes that an advancing civilization and a senseless denudation of forest land are creating throughout the length and breadth of a great continent, none are more conspicuous than those pertaining to the fauna of this country. The solitudes of the great primeval forests, that formerly abounded in wild game, beautiful birds and fowls of the air and valuable fur-bearing anim: are now nearly as deserted as the great Western plains, where the buffalo long since left nothing but traces of his existence behind. Trappers find it more difficult to obtain their fuis each season, and along with the sportsmen they retreat further into the cold regions norih of us, penetrating into the wilds of British America, where life in winter is scarcely endurable. The fur-trapper has had his day in the United States, observes the Philadelphia Times, and as a product of past conditions highest quofation even after he has shipped his booty to market. The cross fox fur comes third on the list, #nd is generally worth from $15 to $20, according to size, general beauty and richness of color. The fur of the otter is nearly as yaluable, and a good specimen will com- mand §$18 either at the country store or in the city markets. The beaver is not worth more than $15, the wolverine $10, the Iynx and black raccoon $6 and the common wolf and marten $5. These are the principal fur-bearing animals canght by the trappers in this country, but along list of cheaper ones are brought to the market, such as the mink, skunk, badger, wildcat, red and gray fox, muskrat and rabbit, The price paid for these vary. from a few cents apiece up to several dol- lars. The rabbit skins are so cheap that the trappers would not take the trouble to express them to the cities if it were not for the fact that they can be packed in with the others at no extra cost. The skins of the deer, moose, elk and antelope must not be confounded with those of the strictly fur-bearing animals. The former are sold as skins and bhides, and not as furs, bringing so much a pound. Deer hides usually bring from 20 to 36 cents per pound. As most State laws forbid trappers killing these animals except during a very short season, there is not so much profit in hunting them as the prices offered would seem to war- rant. The trapper is essentially what hisname implies, and not a hunter or sportsman, Toe shotgun is not his implement, for this tears and injures the skins ann furs, The traps and skinning knife are his chief articles of trade. The traps are usually divided into three classes—snares, dead- falls and steel traps. The steel traps vary in size from the small ones set to capture the little muskrat to the large double- spring arrangements known as ‘“grizzly bear traps.” These latter are mammoth affairs, weighing forty pounds, and with rows of sharp teeth spread sixteen inches apart. When the rows of such a trap close upon any creature they are pretiy sure to break his leg and hold the captive prisoner until relieved by some outside person. The grizzly bears have been known fo tear the heavy traps from their moorings and drag them a mile or more through the forests, but they have never been known to pull the leg away from the lentless teeth. re’;m deadfalls are made both for large and small animals. In the small horse- shoe inclosure s tempting bait is fflu'lened on a delicate trigger, which, when slightly moved, lets down upon the animal’s back a number of heavy logs. Thes: fall squarely upon the back or shoulders ?f the hunery creature, and either break it or crush ont the life. The animal caught ina deadfall rarely lives to tell the tale. The wary animals, like the fox, can sel- dom be induced to enter a deadall, for their instincts make them suspicious. Snares are used for catching a variety of small animals, and they are arranged in a great variety of ways, the most common of which is with the springpole. The trapper visits these snares, dead. falis and steel traps every morning, tray. eling through the woods in the bitterest cold weather and often returning withont a pelt of any great value. Hard work, rough fare and little pay are his rewards, and there is little wonder that he com- plains. He sees nis industry shrinking year by year, and withoutany possible im- provement in the fature he realizes that t e doom of his c!ass has been sounded. Another generation and he will be zone, along with the Indian-fighter, the prairie scout and the buffalo-huner. - There are 3100 women barbers and bair. dressers in this country. NEW TO-DAY—DRY GOODS. (ITY OF SPECIA COLORED DRESS GOOD3! NEW GOODS TO BE SACRIFICED. 'ALL- WOOL CHEVIOT SUITINGS, choice coforings, worth $3 50 and $2.45 Full $4. Sale price Suit. IMPORTED TUFTED CHECKS, all wool and silk and wool novelties, $4.20 Full new effects, regular price $6 and $7 50. worth $8 75 and $10 50. Sale price. Bale price......ccccceececes A BROKEN LINE NOVELTY SUITINGS, new weaves and colorings, Swmt. »~ Full 5.95 suit, 2000 REMNANTS OF ALL KINDS, varying In length from 2} to 10 yards this season’s Importation, at LESS THAN HALF PRICE. COUNTRY ORDERS PROMPTLY ATTENDED TO. S8E T ADBI.A ESPANOXI.. G. VERDIER & CO., SE. Corner Geary Street and Grant Avenue. VILLE DE PARIS—Branch House, 223 S. Broadway, Los Angeles. Follow Us! NO MERCHANT IN OUR LINE EVER DID, EVER CAN, EVER WILL. WE’RE OFFERING THE PEOPLE SOMETHING THAT THE PEOPLE WANT, PRICES AS THESE: AND WANT BADLY, AT SUCH We still have a few left of those LADIES’ RAINCOATS with “Cape at,... » $2.35 LADIES’ CORDUROY WAISTS, dressmaker made and llned throughout, regularly $6, now at » KERSEY JACKE LA oy soid less than $15, now at.. sllk lined, velvet on collar, an $4.75 $10.25 S /9 MARKET ST. Freud's C(iset House. SPECIAL SALE OF CORSETS. 200 DOZEN LADIES' PERFECT-FIT- TING FRENCH MODEL BLACK AND DRAB CORSETS. REDUCED FROM $1.75 TO $1. 100 dozen Perfect-fitting Black and Dr;?. regular price $1.50, will be closed at 75¢. “8108100 WIINOEL \wosdwony, SBP+CIAL SALE OF and Children. OUTII0N §,IOWIBAY *A(T “$375100 Fui} Corded Corset Waists and Shoulder Braces for Ladles, Misies -3A-940[D PIINIQOI0 Mall Orders receive prompt attention. Lilustrated Cutalogue mailad free. MAKE NO MISTAKE IN OUR ADDRESS M. FREUD o< SO, 742-744 Markeét st. and 10-12 Grant ave. LAWRENCE SYSTEM. The only one by which you can make a garment without trying on. FREE TESTS. : S 1931 MARKET ST. The most eflicacions of Skin Foods and Tissue Builders s Fc- ommerded by physicians for its purity and efeacy. It removes frecklesand tan, prevents wrinkles and renders the skin soft. smooth, and white, It cures chapped Chagped ips, 100 mans kia Frice 3 cense. Boid by qa‘; a Ey And st PACIFIC COAST AGENCY, Room 29, Donohoe Building, 1170 Market &t., 8. F. COSMOPFPOLIITAIN, Opposite U. 8 Mint, 100 sn1 102 Fifth st., Say Francisco, Cal—The most select familv hoisl ia Lhe city. and room #1, 3125 aud 31 50 pet , ccording 1o room. Meals 35c. Rooms 503 l 76¢ & day. Free coach 10 300K for the coach bearing the of ih movolitan Hotal WL ¥. l.hw‘;:“ THE WEEKLY CALL It Publishes the Cream of the News of the Week and MANY ATTRACTIVE AND ORIGINAL FEATURES. ITISTHE BEST WEEKLY PAPER ON THE PACIFIC COAST Always Republican, but Always Fair and Impartial in Its Rendering of the Po- litical News. It's the Paper to Send East if You Want to Advertise California. | Mining News That Is Accurats &up to date Telegraphic Service on Not a Line of it Sensational or Faky, and Not a Line of it Dry or Uninteresting. A PAPER FOR THE COUNTRY FIRESIDE. | Bright, ciean, || A champron ot s Thoughtful. | Truth. I A CALIFORNIA NEWSPAPER ALL THE TIME. T ADYOCATES SENT BY HOME MAIL, $L.5G INDUSTRIES A YEAR. THE CALL SPEAKS FOR ALL