The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, December 13, 1896, Page 25

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FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, DECEMBER 13, 1896. 'HE horse show is a thing of the past, | but during the coming week we will continue to hear many remarks on | the beautiful gowns and the fair women | who adorned the bozes and the choicest | seats. Perhaps from a social and dressy point of view the display was not quite as fine as that of last year. However, all | said it was most satisfactory, but New York certainly sets the fashions in many ! things, and those who lead society here | are affected by the attitude assumed by | FEastern autocrats, and apropos of thelast New York show Vogue says: “Fashionable patronage the world over has been proverbial for its fickleness. Ferhaps in our republican society, where there is less of the sentiment of noblesse oblige, it bas less staoility, less staying powers. At all events our sccial functions —those particularly of a public character— are not dependable. For one or two or three years they may meet with greatest favor—become, in fact, unprecedented in | brilliancy and success, snpported by le beau monde with the enthusiasm of its fashion and wealth—when, presto! the | whim has passed, the fad is over, and the | result is an entire change of base or sudden inanity followed by extinction. “The borse show is a case in point, It begins to show symptoms of having lost the elans of the first two displays, and there are indications that the smart set no longer respond con amore. So it goes. There is little hope for perinanency of rep- resentation to be counted upon in our | amusements. Everything is for the day, for the craze of the nour, and like a chiid’s 10y to be cast aside.” All lovers of horses will sincerely recret fashion’s decree if within the next year or | two such exhibitions are abolished, still, | doubtless some equally interesting di- | version will be substituted, and we will all wonder how we ever could have been | s0 enthusiastic over such a display. Our Pretty Women's Gowns| But to return to the subject of our pretty | women and their gowns. They were as- | suredly most lovely and transformed the | Pavilion into a rose garden, and, indeed, | the blossoms were of such uniform perfec- | tion that it was difiicult to decide which | was most beautiful. Ourdressmakers and | aany Eastern and foreign ones must have | racked their brains and exercised the greatest ingenuity to have evolved such unique and chic confections and creations. Such combinations of iaces, furs, chiffons, mousselines de soie, crepe lisse silks, satins, brocades and jewels are sel-| dom seen. Seversl of the brides | present Were most picturesgue in delightful frocks; the acknowl- edged belles were bravely attired, and the dear, sweet debutantes were simply charm- g in dainty, delicious gowns that weil | suited their fresh, bright faces, and our! Istately matrons were gorgeously attired in their silks and satins, their velvets and jewels. The bonnets and hats worn had in most cases been selected with rare good taste and gave the necessary artistic touch to | muny a toilet. Indeed, 1 agreed with the remark of a bright Eastern woman who said: “*Well, you certainly have some mii- liners here who wounld make a name for themselves even in New York,” and this reminds me that you will all probably like to hear about the Tzarine hat, which has met with well-deserved popularity in New York. A correspondent says: Extremely coquettish is the Tzarine hat, with the black velvet brim rolled up the sides and lined with green velvet. Hich but rather large crown in paler green velvet, with a lace scarf caught in front by a large jet | buckle. Quite at the back, on the left side, was posed a blackbird, above which curved an osprey plume. To complete the toilet | weas a love of a manchon—a large one, as they all are now—with deep frills of black velvet, plisses of white satin and green lisse, great chic bows of broad ribbon of ustrous satin, exquisitely tied. Two HAdmirable Frocks. Two frocks worn by sisters lately ata very fashionable tea (they assisted in re- ceiving) are worthy to be described. The elder appeared in a skirt of light blue taffeta, which had a silvery sheen over it, and was trimmed high above tlie hem so as to give the effect of a double skirt, two bands of lace encircled it and they were united down the middle by a narrow band of sable. The bodice was likewise of taffeta covered with creamy Brussels lace, over which were plenifully sprinkied rhinestones, which shimmered in the light, The debutante who wore this dainty costume is quite narrow across the shoulders, so the necessary width was | given by a judicious management of fine | lace and fur. Her collar and waistband were of a delicious green. The sleeves ! were long and ruched, the net only being used in their composition, a friil of lace fell over the hands. The younger sister wore a pink glace | taffeta; the four and a half yard skirt was bordered with thres full ruches of the same; the pink bodice had pink chiffon’ most gracefully draped over it, and over that fitted exquisitely a bolero of white Irish lace, embroidered with pink coral beads. The long and fantastically lovely sleeves of chiffon had a bouillonne of chiffon over the shoulders, surrounded by a lace epaulet and four bands of lace-edged nsertion apparently hold the bolero to- gether. They each terminate with a hand- some coral button gold mounted. Coral is for the moment enjoying the greatest favor and is being most extensively used. *Emeralds are of zll the colored jewels the most fashionable, both under their real aspect and their imitation. Most at- tractive muff chains are formed of cabo- chon emeralds, red enamel and pearls, al- ways excepting those made entirely of diamonds, which are completed with dia- mond tassels of jewels flexibly set. And, by the way, it may be observed at the theaters that the wearing of these long i | o/ Ve ) (§ P ) Yo (0 G | line of fine black silk braid atintervals 1 chains has at last reached London. No well-dressed woman appears now in the evening without a chain of pearls and a chain of some jewels or enamels. As I have previously observed, the fashion is absurd, but it is none the less charming, and we are slowly but surely yieiding to it, Jewels are altogether in high favor. “Women deserving of the title ‘well- | s e U Ve G+ & € 0 € m/f@:«::__.! s D O ) G e Tessed’ all decorate their hair with dia- monds, and it is no rare sicht to meet real | diamond buttons on evening frocks, while | the decolletage is liberally besprinkled | with diamond brooches. And then, as1 said before, these pendant chains offer ex- | cellent opportunities for thzdisplay of our taste and our wealth. The bracelets of the chain order, set with many colored gems, continue on their career of popu- larity; but 1 question whether it is good i form to wear duricg the daytime balf a dozen of these on either arm, each dis- | playing jewels of the richest and the rarest. However, such is the ordinary conduct of the fashionable woman.”” The Latest Parigian Models. One Parisian model is made of the new eregue cloth—a perfectly lovely shade of violet that is being much worn at this moment in Paris. The skirt is absolutely plain, mounted with a couple of narrow box pleats just at the center of the waist. The bodice is of Jeanne d’Arc velvet, a lovely fabric with a silver sheen, the oolero being of cloth, trimmed with quaintly exquisite Japanese buttons. Quite an idea, which we can easily imitate in San Francisco. Equally lovely is a dress of dark green cashmere cloth, made with a trimming of Greek bands in the same cloth stitched upon the skirt. The bodice is composed of a chinchilla blouse, ‘with a little basque band of green velvet and a Jeanne d’Arc bolero. This costume is given a certain art by the addition of a large chinchilla muff with a ruc:e of velvet and lace on either side. Very chic is the tout en semble! Most attractive is a toilet of accordion- plaited gray cloth and gray baby lamb, Worth has just completed such a gown, the slesves being trimmed with a double from the wrist to the shoulder. The gar- ment is, taken all in all, rather eccentric, but then the demand is for novelty, as it is, as that alone marks the artistic clever dressmaker. There are many little points known by fair Parisiennes that are worthy of our observation, and one is this: A Parisienne considers that only a plain material makes a becoming skirt, and in fact can mold her hips and give her “la ligne,” and she remains true to her opinion. This applies c¢hiefly to woolen dresses; dressy silks she will admit with flowers and lines, however. 8ilk is quite a differ- ent matter. Apropos of cloth gowns, excellent is one of chestnut-brown cloth, of which the bodice forms a sort of bib over an under-bodice of green satin, pat- terned by velvet foliage in many tones of browns with here and there a touch of tor- qnoise-blue, while the bralding on the cioth adds ancther note of color. A green gown, tailor-made in cloth, recently cre- atea in the same gay capital, has a bodice the insertions of which are of velvet of a darker shade. Long narrow bands of vel- vet ornament the bodice and the top of the skirt in rows of three, each being fin- ished by a green jade button. The corse- let belt is of black satin terminating in a rosette at the side. Another charming walking costume has been seen in a fine cloth of a nut-brown shade. The bodice is made in the Rus- sian biouse mode and has its revers edged with sable, opening over a chemi- sette of golden brown velvet, a roll of sable giving a pretty finish to the collar. The swathed waistband of black satin ends at the back in long sash-like loops, almost reaching to the bottom of the skirt. Collars and Capes. . Numerous collars and capes are made in astrakan or sealskin, bordered with a wide band of another fur, such as sable, chinchilla or silver, blue .or black fox. Quite fantastic are some made of marten fur, leaving a vandyked or scalloped bor- der, from which falls a wide ruche of lace. The same lace borders the high collar and falls in front on a silk waistcoat, over which lies the fur of the cape. Sealskin en ters into the composition of a most-suc- cessful cape, made very full with godets. Itcrosses in the front and is fastened on the shoulder with a fringe of marten tails, gathered together in a bunch. All round the cape is a five-inch band of marten. The collar is funnel shaped and of the same fur. A flat muff of marten, with the little animal’s head and tail and a full frill of lace at each end accompanies this delightful wrap. But enough of cloth gowns and furs. More elaborate conceptions for weddings and cotilions, etc., demand our serious and concentrated thought as the season waxes gayer every weels; so a new sleeve, a trifling difference in combination of col- ors, the merest suggestions are all being received thankfully by those to whom fashion has imparted her mysteries. Every style, modernized of course, is to be i | ONE OF ThE LATEST WAISTCOATS. anc had a fulling of lace in front and also at the back, but still showing the outlines of the waist distinctly. Chit-Chat. The fashion of wearing a watch. fast- ened to the bodice has been obsolete for quite a time in this country, but some women still 50 adorn themselves in Lon- don. This style finds no favor in the eyes of most men; so, it is reported that not long ago a man walked down Regent street with a small American clock fast- ened to the lavel of his coat, hoping that the ridicule it would excite might make women stop offering such temptations to every passing thief. This person created 80 great a sensation and so much amuse- ment that the police remonstrated with bim, but he declared he saw no reason why he should not wear a clock justas ladies wear their watches. Members of the very interesting and extensive Neediework Guild in this City will be interested in learning that the Duchess of York has this year collected fer a similar guild in London 4000 articles of clothing. H. R. H. has been pretMiy and aptly named the ‘“Princess of the Poor.”” She will never have a prouder title, MARCELLA. For Men. The waistcoat illustrated is of a richly brecaded black silk and from London comes the information that such waist- coals are being worn with evening dress, | and in the spring it is predicted that they will be worn with frock coats. White and gray waistcoats are also made; the design in some cases is oudined in gray or gold or brightened with some slight touches of color. The waistcoats are made single or donble breasted, with silk buttons to match; or, if the wearer possess any antique gold or other waistcoat buttons, tuis is an excellent opportunity for their introduction. At present the fashion al- most entirely continesitself to dress waist- coats, but we are informed that next year the plain black brocades will be much seen. Forexample, Louis X1I, Louis XV, Empire, 1840, according to the time and circumstances, but such modes to be suc- cessful must be carried out most carefully and never is it allowed to mix styles in the same costume. Bat first let me call your atlention to the most attractiv: models here illustrated by our artist and thus described : “Round skirt and cioss-fitting sleeves in sarnet-colored cloth, ornamented with Swiss belt, festoons and throat lapels in fancy jet galon; pleatings of black satin. Blouse striped with black velvet; neckband to correspond. Shoulder cape, lined with garnet silk, in sable or otter fur, like the flounce round the skirt. Large fur maff barred with chinchilla bands, on each of which sparkles a jeweled clasp securing a tab of pleated lace artistically turned in | different directions. edged with fur.” Also very interesting is the delightful bolero for evening wear, with its Empire belt. The materials employed are rose- pink satin and white tulle. At an unusually brilliant cotillon very Iately was worn a gorgeous dress of white damas. The flowers of the pattern were embroidered witb chenille and seed pearls; the skirt was perfectly plain, with a demi- train; the low bodice, slightly pointed, was fastened with diamond buttons, and round the throat a band of sable and tufts of roses. The short sleeves were of gauze and damas, the long gloves being held with an elastic jeweled bracelet at the top of the arm; mauvre-silk stockings and shoes of the 'same material as the dress, white marabout fan. The hostess was appareled in a pale &60ld moire antique, the water marks shghtly outlined with gold; plain skirt; round the square cut bodice was a band of chinchilla, and here and there a tuft of shaded pansies; lace ruffles edged the el- bow sleeves, which were draped en pa- pillon, with a strap of chinchilla. A lovely Baronne was a picture in a plain sitk, cafe au lait in color, covered with shaded roses, most artistically painted by the wearer; white gauze and roses with- out leaves beautificd the bodice; pale pink stockings -and white satin shoes, painted with small roses. Dainiy and smart was a white Pekin through which ran pink stripes with gar- lands of roses and lilies of the valley on the stripes round the skirt, with a row of small roses close together round the edge, which were veiled with a white lace flounce. Hat in garnet felt, The bodice was low and pointed ! worn in the daytime. This return to the w modes of our great-grandfathers will be gladly welcomed as a relief to the mo- notony of male attire in the evening. The attempt to revive this fashion is, of course, due to the fact that the Prince of Wales gave such extensive orders for bro- cades suitable for waistcoats to the Spital- fields veavers. The two young English- men who have been wearing gay waist- coats recently may yet find themselves in the height. ot fashion. Who can tell? Him would frown upon the mere sugges- tion of a crimson waistcoat to-day, but as spring draws near his views are quite likely to undergo a decided change. Our artistic senses are to be further grati- fied shortly I hear by the appearance by one of the Britishers I have just men- ticned arrayed in a light brown leathern waistcoat. At the present moment the best dresse of men in America are strictly conserva- tive in their views, and show no desire to depart from theconventional styles. Him ‘admits that: “There is yet a lingering de- sire for brighter plaid wai. istcoats than are exactly the best in point of taste; and the most brilliant of cinnamon-pink shirts is even seen at as conspicuous-a place as the Waldorf, worn by a man of reputed fashion aud in the evening.” By ‘the way, how few properly fitted frock coats, comparatively speaking, aro ever seen. They are difficult to cut well, and even some of the best tailors here do not make them correstly, and a second- rate man simply makes a perfect botch of | such a garment. s The very newest gloves are of a queer shade of green, describea as a species of cafe au lait. They are extremely smart for aiternoon wear. BVENING DRESS C———LY I Y & m— T v ¢ S—c .‘.av.—-.. the . NEW YORK, N, Y., Dec. 7.—Hooray! Whizz! Bing! The boys have been hay- ing packs of fun pelting each other with jcrisp white snowballs' during the past week! A flock of angels swooped down near earth last Sunday night, because when New York rubbed its sleepy eyes Monday morning it found the world was polar white with feathery snow. | The first snow of the season seems whiter and cleaner and more weicome than any of the other winter storms; but thatis because it 1s a novelty, and humanity craves constant change in all things. Per- haps that is why we grow old so rapidly. To-day the sun is shining warm and patches of snow still cling to the house- tops and lie on untrodden ground every- where. Now and then a stray snowball, thrown by a straying schoolboy, splashes the woolly surface of a passing overcoat, but otherwise all is quiet on Manhattan Isle. The ‘first-snow” fever has abated and we will settle down to the regular routine business of an Eastern winter. When Dr. H. C. Cluness and his estima- ble wife came to town they put up at the Grand Hotel and intended to enjoy the sights, the opera and their friends in an independent Western style, They carried out their plans for a few days only. At the end of that period a conple of old and time-honored friends claimed their pres- ence and the firm resolves dissolved into the acceptance of their friends’ genial hospitality. They are visiting on Fifty- eighth street, but the doctor strolls into the Grand every day to get his mail, answer correspondence and chat with old acquaintances. Mrs. J. O’B. Gunn and young daughter left the Fifth-avenue Hotel for the West on Tuesday. They will stop at Cleveland and Chicago a few days each, arriving home about the 16th of the month. Mrs. Gunn will have a number of handsome new gowns to show her friends, for she has been busy shopping during her stay in town, and never have the shopping dis- tricts been so lively and so full of gor- geous finery. W. G. Coggswell of Los Angeles is at the Metropole. He has come on to purchase some novelties in the way of furnishings for his little summer resort. ‘Walter W. Bachman of San Francisco arrived last Tuesday. He will make a short stay. J. E. Carey will rush through his busi- ness here in time to spenda Christmasin dear old California—at least he said as much to a friend yesterday. Mrs. J. B. and Miss Emma Butler: of San Francisco have left the Imperial and are visiting in Plainville, N. J. They are the guests of Mrs. Eustice, sister of Mrs. Batler. B. F. Meyer and F. P. Jacobs left for California on Friday. H. 8. Blaught, the president of the San Francisco Ramie Company, is busily en- gaged in organizing a New York com- pany. He declares that the wonderful ramie plant will, inside of a few years, Y [ ) b ik completely revolutionize cotton market. A magnificent ramie mill is now being finished in Washington, D. C., the ma- chinery is being placed and everything will soon be in readiness for active work. Mr. Slaught is an enthusiastic and inde- fatigable worker and quickly surmounts every obstacle. E. W. Marks, who was visiting us for many weeks, left for the Golden Gate the first of the week. Colonel F. M. Irons is up at the Gre- noble. 5 Eiph L. C. Parker, the well-known mining man of Butte, Mont., came into town Saturday with colors flying. He is here to place some valuable mining properties Parker is well known in San‘ Francisco. He lived for many years in Virginia City, and paid many visits to the Golden Gate during that period. R. Luscombe of S8an Francisco arrived Saturday morning and hurried downtown to meet old acquaintances and let them know he had reached the city safe and hapoy. Mrs. William L. Price, who has been at the Everett House for several months past, left there a few days ago to visit friends in New England. She may not return to New York, but just continue her journey homeward after the Christmas holidays. Hon. J. M. Brazee floated into the crowded thoroughfares the other morn- ing, transacted a lot of business, and fold- ing his gripsack quietly stole away. “These Californians know their busi- FROM* GREATER NEW YORK A Budget of Interesting News and Gossip About the Galifornia Golony in the Eastern Metropolis located in Nevada and Montana. Mr., ness,” said a man to me to-day. “They just sniff at us Easterners these days, a_nd gleefully hustle homeward when the skies are lead and the snow filters down. They don’t like the looks of icicles, I guess.” The man was right,’ perhaps, because | the arrivals of California folk are few and very far between. 2 There is a tinge of sadness lurking about Thirtieth street and Broadway these days. Dear old A. M. Palmer has quietly re- leased himself from the management ?f, what has been long known as Palmer's Theater. Across the front now appeais the older name of “Wallack’s."” The swinging doors bear little gold let- ters speliing *‘Wallack’s.” Everything which even hints at the palmy or stormy Palmer days is being completely obliter- ated. It is rumored that Moss, the owner _and lessor of the theater, is a very rapacious sort of a man, and that through his cruel, hard-fisted methods the Wallacks came to grief. Mr. Palmer has hravely puffeted cruel waves of defeat, and triumphantly sailed over smooth waters of success and wealth. He is a man beloved by thousands, and though at present the world shrugzs its shoulders and wonders at his present atti- tude, it may depend that he will bob up serenely, dignifiedly, victorious. Mr. Palmer has what every public man should have—a brainy and courageous wife, de- voted and lovely. i 1 had a very interesting chat with W. H. Crane the other evening. He still labors under the unhappy belief that | Californians do not like him and never | will. Everybody has heard that he once chanced to remark something against “*California critics and California climate.” The outcome of it all was that Mr. Crane, the able actor and geaial gentle- man, has firmly and sweetly refused all overtures from Western managers. Kor eight glitiering successful years W. H. Crane has triumphauntly marched through the North, Soutn, East and Middle West, but never has he deigned to ascend the mighty Rockies and even peep upon the sunset States. He does not claim to be a Hannibal, but some day he may be in- veigled into crossing the mountain-tops. In the meantime Mr. Crane is growing richer every day, the public is growing fonder and Californians are losing a very good thing. To-day I saw McKee Rankin, the once elegant and shapely, waddling across Broadway puffing and blowisg under a mountain of flabby fat. I gazed with wonder at his broad back and gasped with astonishment when I beheld tue protruding paunch of the once manly Rankin. His face is smoothly shaven, accentuating if possible his puffed cheeks and double chin. Why, oh | why! How, obh how! doall the promi- nent actors and actresses develop into male and female Falstaffs before they are 50 years old. Even the great and only Oscar Hammer- stein is tending that way, but then he is just turned 50, as he frankly admits, so one can pardon him the offense. New York ought to bs proud of Oscar { Hammerstein. Through his example wealthy properiy-owners and prominent theatrical managers have invested their | money in building theaters and vlaces of { amusement, which add to the beauty and grace of the city streets. & Among the late arrivals in New York are: William Pridham, Los Angeles; Mrs. F. H. Green, San Francisco; Mr. and Mrs, C. A. Rothchilds, Mr. and Mrs. J. B. Levi- son, C.de Guigne and wife, W. Ralston, George C. Baldwin and Joseph Waund, all of San Francisco. 34 Park ro TreLLA Forrz TOLAND. XEW ';O-DA,'. Sossaassasss! Haviland China Is the finest mads—that's acknowledged everywhere. Usually rather high priced— here are some of tbe Big China Store’s =2 famous low prices. Be- autiful hand - dec- orated Plates— the picturs merely gives you an idea— Dessert size $3 per dozen, Breakfast size $3.50 per dozen, Bread and Butter size $2.75 per dozen. Fine thin hand d e corated Cops and Saucers, Fdivie 0’Clock Tea size, 25 cents per pair; Regular Tea 30 cents, Cofflee 4-O cents. A hundred other articles at equally Low prices—just come and see. Artistic Lamps and Globes, Rich Cut Glass, Ornaments, Cutlery, etc., in endless varfety, and every plece at thoss famous low prices. Come early and make your selections and avoid the holiday rush. OPEN EVENINGS. THAT BIG CHINA STORE 4 Quarter of a Block: Below Shravs'r. WANGENHEIM, STERNHEIM & CO. 528 and 530 Market St., 27 and 29 Sutter St., EELOW MONTGOMERY. BssgssssssssE GENUINE ROXBURY BRUSSELS CARPET, 75C A YARD, SEWED AND LAID. SHIREK & SHIREE, 747 Market Street, Tel. 5391. Opp. Grant Ave. KILL TWO BIRDS WITH ONE ST | hava to buy. Kindlv pay usa visitan { thing that will be JUST THE THING. We still have a few left of those Cape at. LADIES’ CORDUROY WAISTS, dres: throughout, regularly $6, now a never sold less than $15, now at LADIES’ RAINCOATS with 4o ONE! In selecting your CHRISTMAS PRESENT buy something your WIFE, DAUGHTER or SISTER REALLY NEEDS and which you will eventually d we will assist you in finding some-~ $2.35 smaker made and Ii TS et e 3475 LADIES’ KERSEY JACKETS, silk lined, vzlvet on coliar, 219 $10.25 S /G AIRRIET ST, UsEEy, HILIA GFTS One of Our Celehrated Corsetsand Waists JUST RECEIVED—A LARGE INVOICE OF Long-Walsted P. D. Sans Rival Corsets, C. P. u la Sireno Corse: Celebrated Royal C. T. Corsets, Elegunt N, T. French Corsets, Unr valed Worly Corsets, Bicyole Corsets. The Reigning Fashionable LOUIS XV PAIISIAN COREY nnd THE 5 " 13848 eEm SR3 R £ s . i i i TEe Sos S83 He g o= SEE8 i 53E wE mef 2 2ES si37 %8 - e o;.‘ 25 2R FoneE 83 |- o ® 55:¢ $23 HSES 1= > e & CAUTI -Having po agencies or branch stores, gur Corjetscan be purchased only at our estab- lishment. Meil Orders fecelve prompt attention. Iiustrazed Catalogue mailed free. Ba- Parcels delivered free to OCakland, Alameda sad Berkeley. Our Store Open Evenings until Jan. 1. MAKE NO MISTAKE IN OUR ADDRESS - FREUD o SO 742-744 Market st. aod 10-12 Grant ave, LAWRENCE SISTEM, The only one by which you can make a garment | without trying on. FREE TESTS. 1231 MARKET ST, i WANT IT? You can get it in the Womankind word contest. How many English ‘words can you form from the nine let~ ters in “WOMANKIND ” It's easy. 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