The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, December 6, 1896, Page 24

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, DECEMBER G,V 1896. Gowns for the Horse Show. The men are all discussing the horses and we are likewise deeply interested in the beauties, but dear! oh, dear! we have also to think of our frocks, our wraps, and last but not least of our chapeaux and bonnets. As a result, with the numerous social duties that begin to crowd upon us, we are fairly being rushed to death. Ever since the arrival of the unusually coid weather wraps have become subjects of serious investigation, for several of the ex- quisite toilettes shortly to be worn are of the airiest of fabrics. Many will spend every afternoon and evening during the show at the Pavilion. As a result smart costumes of varied sorts will be offered for our critical admi- ration. Numerous gorgeous capes and cloaks, stiff with embroidery, relieved with fur and lace, will be commented on. Some will, perhaps, like the beautifnl model here illustrated, of rich velvet, cov- ered with an applique-of lace which alone cost a small fortune. The chinchilla lining and edging it is of the finest quality, most becoming to a clear skin, bright eyes and rosy color. A pelerine in Breitschwautz, also repro- duced by our artist, the latest Parisian model, received by me, is uniquely ex- quisite in cut and perfect for afternoon wear, as were also some velvet coats worn on a similar occasion, very recently, in New York and Paris. One especially noted, of black velvet, had a roll collar and re- | vers; in the back it fitted tightly, and each seam opened to disclose a lining of lustrous satig. Itfell straight in front, every seam being braided with black silk braid. Round the throat was wound a cravat of white surah, which, tying as it did under the roll col- lar, imparted an indescribable air. This arrangement of surah is spoken of as the 1830 cravat. An evening cloak, made em- pire style, was black satin lined with white brocade, with a coller of sable resting upon & hood of lace caught up into a chou at each side of the neck in the front and fastened with white satin ribbons. The white brocade lining to this coat was gdorned with s thick ruching of white t The Newest Reception Lamp. satin ribbon with the happiest of results when the coat was worn open. Another lovely coat is of a beautiful brocade, having a ground of cream satin, upon which are large blossoms and light airy foliage; it is lined with a satin cov- ered with large grape leaves. The great high collar is boraered with some exceptionally good white Thibet, which also edges the fronts. Imaginethe charms cf a long cloak of pale blue moire brocade lined with ivory Duchesse satin, which has a delightful zouave of fine gui- pure ecru in tone, edged with chinchilla, the sleeves and lovely collars edged with the same fur.” Indeed, I often wonder what women would do without fur,lace and feathers. They lend an air of soft- ness to the hardest face and impart a charm that mere words are inadequate to express when permitted to adorn beauti- fnl women. Yon may smile at my love of the little luxuries of life and of its beau- ties, but I know that one must pay the penalty if one understands the pieasure that can be imparted by a barmonious blending of colors or by the mere breath of a delicious perfume, for there are so many discords on all sides that for most of us it ispetter not to dwell on sensibili- ties. Now, if I had written a single line more you would have believed that Mar- cella intended to deliver a lectire on “Harmonies in Nature,” etc.; so let us return to a discussion of our costumés for the show, as we are assured by the best of authorities that it will be a most brilliant event, well worthy of the bravest appardl. Gowns for morning, noon and evening must be considered, A dress that comes from one of our best dressmakers is appropriate for the after- noon, being a coarse black canvas over a bright green silk. The corselet and neck- band are of a tartar silk. With itis worn a bolero of black baby lamb, on which is carried out a neat artistic pattern with a beavy gold cord. I really covet one of green cloth, The plain skirt has two rows of inch and a half wide chinchilla. Throughout the lining is of a chameleon silk, varying from pale blue to a dull rose and yet again to green. The bodice is of green velvei, of the latest cut and seems the bodice, which is hemmed everywhere with chinchilla. A great hat of black | velvet with plumes and just a touch of green completes a satisfactory dress. How well a pretty debutante will-look next week when arrayed in a dark crimson | serge. Encircling the skirt are three rows of - black ribbon veivet, bordered top and bottom with chinchilla. The bodice is made with a bolero, cov- ered with a conventional design in black velvet. The soft front is of chine basket- work silk. A beautiful blonde will be equally attractive in a dark-green cloth frock, made with a bolero of caracule, showing an applique of green satin traced with fine jet beads. The vest of white chiffon is made over white satin. A youth- ful matron in a dress of brown-face cloth, with a zounave of velvet about two shades darker, will receive many compliments. Her waistband and collar are of green taffeta, and a large brown felt hat is trimmed with plumes that match the vel- vet. I must not forget to add that the velyet zouave is piped and lined with green, as are also the deep cuffs. The sleeves have moderate puffs. All the gowns I have thus far* mentioned can be worn during the morning and afternoon, but in the evening many will be the elab- orate creations worn in the boxes. In- deed, last year the dresses were almost as beautjful as those to be seen ona first night at the opera. A Pearl-Colored Velvet. A much admired dress worn at there- cent New York show was of a pearl- colored velvet. The skirt had no orna- mentation, but the bodice was a work of art. The soft vest of accordion-pleated white chiffon fell over ivory-white moire. This moire appeared to form a sort of little coat, over which was worn a bolero of the velvet, edged round the neck and down the front with costly sable. On the other side of the fronts of the coat, which was made to open widely to show the vest, were seven gold buttons, each the size of a quarter, enameled in rose pinks. In the center of each appeared an odd black Egyptian character. Around the waist was carried a deep belt of black veivet, which was tied gracefully at the left side. Over the edge of the high moire collar fell a little rare Duchesse lace. The tiny bonnet had a foundation of the gray velvet, three very full white ostrich feath- © fs, and unusually excellent aigreite, and here and there loops of white velvet. A single touch of black appeared at one side. The gown appeared to be comnpletely lined with white taffeta and ‘the fair wearer, a bride of 8 month, carried a huge bunch of heliotrope and maidenhair ferns. This gown wasmade in New York, as was also the one in which her sister, a well-known belle, appeared cne evening. It consisted of a skirt of light blue poult de soie having a greenish tone. Around the bottom was a twelve-inch border of deep green velvet, charmingly embroidered in tones of blue and green with a touch of gold. The bodice was a combination of the silk, the velvet and a good deal of very old yellow lace, out of which the sleeves and yoke were evolved. The velvet formed a deep corselet which was drawn through & buckle of rare beauty, for the finest of turduoises were thickly set in the gold. The tiny bonnet worn had a crown of real turquoises and a sprightly aigrette. This gown was lined with green and numerous were tbe friils of lace and silk revealed when the skirt was siigntly lifted. In front of this pretty girl rested an immense bunch of the new variety of mignonette. Imagine another gown from the same city of lime-green silk and black-dotted chantilly net. The under slip is of this charming color, covered with chiffon to match; finished with a flat plisse on the bot- tom. The full black lace skirt is mounted separately with two loose chiffon skirts, besides being entirely plissed, with a nar- row black lace on the bettom. Bands of the finest jetted lace fall vertically atin- tervals, and an Oriental suggestion in massing the lace jetted on the top of front gore was most effective. The composition of bodice, which was high, was the same treatment of lime-green silk, covered with chiffon—the lace in long lines, with two narrow vertical panels of yellow velvet in front, showing through jet interstices. The lights and shadows gaiged by this veiling give the pleasure we derive from color transfused in pottery or enamel, and therein lies the real art instinct. Numerous will be the skirts of white watered moire and poplin worn with chic waists of tulle lace, and chiffon surah beauties have been sent home. and I have seen a red one, a green one and more than one in white, pink and blue, but their charms 1 cannot dilate on, having been sworn to secrecy. I wonder if we will see any of the new boas; the latest fad is to have them match the gown, not only in the identical color, but 1n minute shad- ings. Truly only a large income admits of the numerous extravagances which are offered as temptations daily. Before leaving tbe evening toilettes I want to mention one I have just heard about that is the work of an American dressmaker and is of ivory silk trimmed with ruch- ings of shell pink roses, the sleeves and corselet being of velvet exactly matching the roses. On the bodice the flowers are laid close together without any foliage, and are veiled with Argenton lace. Now, concerning hats, bonnets and toques, we must have something abso- lutely and entirely new, as last season’s will not stand comparison with the lovely conceits now being offered by our leading milliners. To convey some idea of the marvels to be had in capotes and chapeaux I repeat for your edification descriptions of several worn at a marriage which took place last month. A hat of Nile green vel- vet having a crown richly embroidered in gold and the aigrette composed of lace wings incrusted also with gold and a white *‘crosse” is alluded to as lovely. Two choux of pink and Nile roses framed the hair at the back on either side. Equally worthy of admiration was a Marie Antoinette capote in point d’Angleterre with a transparent crown of old gold embroidery, an aigrette of birds of paradise plumes and two choux of turquoise and velvet studded with tur- quoises and precious stones. Decidedly novel was a Louis XV toque made of a velvet in the new tint of lilac rose, trimmed with feathers that perfectly har- monized and a cachpeigne of white gar- denias. With this was worn a fyll ruche of glace velvet in the same soft and be- coming tints of pinky mauvre bordered with zibiline over a second ruche of cream pleated chiffon. A capote a la Charlotte Corday was and are supposed to be far lighter than lixe structures in velvet or felt; this, how- ever, is a mistake, as their weight is con- siderable. [ A young girl in the smart set in New York, who spent $13,000 on her garments, etc,, for the last horse show, is not con- sidered by her friends to have been unduly extravagant. Of course her father is worth millions. However equally well- off maidens here would scarcely spend so lavishly. MARCELLA. Beautiful Christmas Gifts. Not far from Pittsburg, Pa., the factory is established from which is peing sent this beautiful ware. It challenges the ad- miration and wonder of all connoisseurs of rare, uniaue and beautiful glass. Every one should examine the specimens of Vol- lenden, which have just reached us. In- deed the proprietors of one of our leading stores is to be congratulated on having re- ceived a consignment, as the manufacturers bave been very cautious in placing the Vollenden, and I understand that besides the firm in this City only Bailey, Banks & Biddle and Caldwell in Philadelphia, Tiffany in New York and Burley & Co. in Chicago have had the pleasure of handling it, so limited are the number of pieces made. Positively no mere words can be- gin to express the simply marvelous beauty of some of the pieces. Ore alone is well worth a journey to see, for in the factory are employed well-known artists from France, Italy, England, Germany, Turkey, etc. As aresult the decorations, designs and colorings are as varied as though the lamps, etc., had come from these different countries. For example, one lamp is of a deep rich green color, and on the stand and globe are exquisitely painted portraits. Those on the globe are of Balvatore Rosa, Rubens and Rem- brandt; the portraits on the body of the lamp are after Vandyck, most skillfully reproduced by Sigmuna Wirkner. Mr. Hunter, Gazoo Fouii, Albert M. Par- low, William Morley, George Morley, Dominco Campano, Edwara Zahn and Frank J. Vetter are among the well-known artists engaged by the ownersof theglass. The lamps, on whose translucent surfaces bloom such roses as Queen Mab must twine for her lovely hair, are extraordi- narily beautiful; on others flatboats, in which her Majesty might havedrifted down unique. Old-gold embroidery formed the crown and ancient point d’Angleterre the border. A great row of mendarine velvet gave a decided cachet to this artistic hat. A black velvet Louis XVI hat, trimmed with black plumes and biack velvet bows, fastened with a handsome buckle of rare gems, was worn with a collet of white ostrich plumes. The headgear worn by another guest is described as ‘‘a small begnin in three parts of cream satin er- broidered with Tutkish turquoises, becom- ingly finished with a coquille of cream ribbon, two black feathers and a white paradise aicrette.” The ruche worn was also of white ostrich feathers. How beau- tiful must have been a “toque Renais- sance,” in white glace velvet embroidered with pearls and large turquoises, with a Louis XVI bow in white moire attached with an ornament in pearls and turquoises and a white paradise aigrette. Some of these hats I have had reproduced for my readers. This season the French women are wearing their toques right on the top of their eyebrows. Such a style may be very Frenchy, but certainiy we would not care to gaze upon ourselves if our hats were so placed. Chapeaux composed of chenilie plaited with straw are much in demand many a mocnlight river. The greatest novelties of all are the incensesburners, which may be had in vase-shaped designs of rarely charming colorings. A liqud perfume most delicious is slowly burned in them. One of these esthetic ornaments was sprayed with the most natural cherry blossoms I have ever seen. Over another fluttered birds across a cloudy sky, and a third was purely Turkish in design. The vases, bowls, etc., indeed every piece, must be seen to be vroperly appreciated, and before deciding on your holiday gifts 1 do advise you all to make a judiciousex- amination of this most fascimating ware. MARCELLA. For Men. “Him’s” latest communications will cause a little flutter, as he tells this week about the ‘'stir’’ made by the reefer, and although it will never take the place of the frock coat, as some have predicted it would, still it will be very considerably worn; so I give you this authority’s re- marks concerning the garment: “The reefer, of which I spoke some time ago, seems to have created some un- wonted excitement. It is identical with the three-seamer, the debut of which has thrown into consternation the London tailors. After all, whatis it? Itisonlya jacket with square edges, very much on Though at present the planet Mars is about 52.000,000 miles distant, its com- parative nearness has brought important resplts that will awaken renewed investi- gation and discussion during the coming months. The sea-green area which has been gazed on for centuries with wonder as a watery main, “an ocean hung on high,” seems destined, like the dark lunar tracts, to be a topographical paradox, a sea in name only, traversed by permanent ridges-and Ocr 9 ¢8749* 19205 g 8984 LovELR OBSERVATORY Ly farrows that can be identified under favor- able conditions. . Scarcely had the orb ascended to north- ern. skies and turned its north polar regions earthward before the new tele- decidedly long tous. It has a seam on the hips, the basque being pleated at the center of the back, and in front it reveals a vest of china-blue and white satin, bro- caded all over with rosebuds. The pointed revers are of it also, and they extend over sCO| of Mr. Lowell’'s observatory at Fl.&flwn put in use for the study of the surface details. The object glass, which has already given proof of its ex- cellence in difficult observations of Venlf, was, according to the interesting accouht by T. J. J. See, recently published, con- structed from disks of glass that were ab- solutely flawless. With a diameter of 24 inches, it has a focal lensth of 21 feet, while the mounting is such as to insure the ntmost stability. With this powerful and perfect instrument the supposed watery tract, long known as the Hour- glass Sea, and also called the Syrtis Major, received speuvial attention, and Percival Lowell’s own fluent words, in his pub- lished account, will best explain the dis- covery made: “Unfortunately for the ocean-lovin@the character of the Syrtis Major must pass with other charming myths into the limbo of the past. For the great blue- green area is no ocean, no sea, no any- thing connected with water, but some- thing very far removed from water, namely a vast tract of vegetation.”” This interesting conclusion hasnot been hastily arrived at, as in 1894 there were evidences |, of solidity and of seasonal changes that were inconsistent with the ocean theory. The accompanying illustration, taken from “Popular Astronomy,” of the Hour- glass Sea, the tapering outline of which is well known to even the occasiohal tele- scopic observer, shows very clearly the light and dark streaks whose variations are the basis-of Mr. Lowell's theories. He classes the markings in question as light bands and patches and dark lines and. spots. In the beginning of the Mar- tian summer these markings become visible, under the midsummer sun they are still more distinct, and later on as- . sume mellower tints that are suggestive of a landscape in the fall of the year. Solis Pons and Lungz Pons, the light bands on the right, have been known for some years, but that on the left and another not visible in this illustration have been recently discovered at Flagstaff. Thedark lines are the most conspicuous of the canals detected by Mr. Douglas of the Flagstaff Observatory in 1894, and again in the present season, though a few were noticed by other observers previously. Mr. Lowell’s interesting and plausible theory is that Syrtis Major, the supposed sea, is a tract of land not uniformly level, but beltea by natural depressions, through which the melted polar snows find egress toward the equatorial regions. The rather broad and irregular dark streaks that ap- pear in the early Martian summer are due to the vegetation springing up over those watered depressions, and later, in the de- cline of the year, these broad stretches give place to remarkably straight lines, which, according to Mr. Lowell’s interpre- tation, bear the stamp of artificiality, and may be an intelligent engineering expedi- ent for utilizing natural declivities and Science Obtains a Closer View of the Red Planet Mars making them more effective by construct- ing watercourses through them. The light bands in the supposed sea are, then, the uplands .parched by summer heat, outlined by the encroachment of the watered soil and made distinc} by the con- trast between barrenness and vegetation. The canals and oases, as shown in the drawing dated October &, cross both seas and continents alike; 'but of the latter divisions this keen-eyed observer reserves his recent impressions for a later date. These will be awaited with intense inter- est, as Mr. Lowell’s keen-witted infer- ences, as well as his practical zeal in the cause of telescopic research, give him a prominent place in the scientific world. In September, 1892, Proféssor Schaeberle of the Lick Obseryatory announced his belief that the dark areas on Mars were land, as the streaks and variation in tint seemed permanent, while the supposed continents glimmered brightest when on the central parts of the disk, in truly oceanic fashion. The canals and vases crossing the so-called continents he con- sidered to be the ridges and intersections of submerged mountain ranges bften duplicated as on the earth. With these views Schiaparelli entirely disagreed, but as tbey were founded on ob- servation and experimeat, and are now in part corroborated by the efficient observ- ers of Flagstaff, thev may bring the un- settled state of the Martian land guesdon to a satisfactory conclusion. It will be several years before the bright orb that is the subject of these scientific controversies revisits the firmament in its present beautiful aspect. Being the bright- est red star visible, it is easily seen be- tween the tips of the horns of Taurus, rising at dusk in the northeast, passing the meridian at midnight at a high alii- tude and settingat dawn in the northwest. It is now at its mean distance from the earth, and on December 10, being in oDpo- sition to the sun, will still afford excellent opportenities for observation during the coming weeks. Rose O’'Havropax. the lines of the yachting reefer or pea- jacket, but longe: and more of & coat than a jacket. Itis also finished in much better style, and there isacertain entrain nl?om. it. It has been used on several occasions this summer and autumn by the Prince of Wales as a compromise between the in- formal and formal afternoon dress. In- deed, I don’t see the cause for this agita- tion. The new square-edged jacket is, after all, only avery pretty sack coat, ' with a bit of suggestion of formal attire aboutit. Perhaps it will take a place in relation to the sack al the frock, as has already been occupied by tha_ dinner jacket. I do not believe men will wear high hats with it, and I doubt very m.uch if you will see many of them in the height of the winter season in New York, unless downtown or at the clubs.” Last August men wore at Newport lounge suits for calling, garden parties and even luncheons. Quite achange from the fashions of two or three years ago. Very smart suits are now to be seen of both biue and black serge, indeed one can- not fail to note them with pleasure and relief, so numerous are the tweeds. Such serge suits emphasize & good figure and have the faculty of not drawing any undue attention to a bad one. The new ‘“‘three seamers’’ are made of these serges and such suits when lined in black are certain- ly swell. This season the most fashionable gloves come in shades of tans and browns for the country and when driving the'reddish tan are most correct. The suede vanished at the approach of winter and they are only worn for half mourning. Gloves have longer wrists at present, but one button only. Colored shirts, with all around turn- down white collars, will be worn by well- dressed men all winter with their business suits, but never will they be seen in com- bination with frock coats, as they were last year. The black club tie is enjoying a great popularity and is worn on all occasions. The latest trousers are made compara- tively loose from the waist to the knee, and from there they are tight—‘'some- what on the pegtop principle.” When the weather is very cold it is a wise precaution to have one’s patent leather rubbed with sweet oil or vaseline, which can be applied with a picce of flan- nel. Such an application will in many cages keep the leather from cracking. Why Do the Lost Walk in Gircles ? The question is often asked: Why is it that a person who is lost, whether it be in a dense wood or on a prairie, invarianly moves in a circle and always to the right? No satisfactory answer has ever been given for this well-known peculiarity under the circumstances mentioned. Some physiologists, anatomists and speculative philosophers claim that the left leg in the human species is slightly longer than the right and so takes Jonger steps, thus causing a motion to the right which in time completes a circle, if the mind is so bewildered that it has no fixed objective point in view. Perhaps the real answer to this queer question lies in the fact that most persons use their right hands in preference to their left, and are accustomed to passing objects on their right-hand side, and so, unconsciously, keep edging off to the right. On a prairie, however, where there is nothing in the way of obstacles worthy of mention, this cause or reason for walking in a *“right- nanded’’ circle would hardly hold good. Does any reader know whether it isa fact or not that left-handed persons who are lost make the circle in an opposite direc- tion to that made by a right-handed per- son ?—8t. Louis Republic. ———————— Hetty Green's Losses. The loss of the money Hetty Green has spent on her boy’s politics in Texas would break tne old lady’s heart if 1t had come about in any other way.—St. Louis Post- Dispatch. e, (A4 Great Britain’s territory in Alfrica amounts to 2,615,000 square miles. NEW TO-DAY. This handsome Polished Fire-gilt Table, with genuine Mexican onyx Lop, 8x8inches, for 8.5, Just a sample of our well-known wholesals prices. Some more elaborate tables at %5.75, 5 and 89. China, Glass, Lamps and Art Goods—the holi- day assortment is now complete. Come and look around—don’t buy i you cav helo It. THAT BIG CHINA STORE— A Quarter of a Blocl: Below Shrave's, WANGENHEIM, STERNHEIM & CO. 528 and 530 Market St., 27 and 29 Sutter St., BELOW MONTGOMERY, FINE FURS AND SEAL- SKIN GARMENTS To order. e Remodellng anu repairing at prices far below those of any other furrier on the Pacific Coast. ~LL WORK GUARANTEED. FASHIONABLE AD. KOCOUR, Esaman/ 8% Rearny Street, Upstajrs—Opposite Chronicle. Formerly cutter with Revillon Freres, Paris, London and 3 GENUINE ROXBURY BRUSSELS CARPET, 15C A YARD, SEWED AND LAID. SHIREK & SHIREK, 747 Market Street, Tel. 5391 Opp. Grant Ave. Ladies, Don't Overlook T l This Chance! Children’s Heavy Mixed Cheviot D. B. Reefers at........ Ladies’ Double Texture Cloth Back Rain Coats at........ Ladies’ Tan Mixed Melton Electrie Seal Bdged Jackets at. . Ladies’ Silk Taffeta (extra fine) Underskirts af........ AS THEY WILL NOT LAST LONG AT THESE PRICES $2.75 $4.25 $6.25 $7.75 Ladies' Green Kersey Silk-lined Jacket (this is a world- beater for priee), af.......- JUST RECEBIVED—ASm2iete Assortment of LADIES' WAISTS, in Cloth, Corduroy and silk, 1 swell effects. 9 14 ATARNET ST. (Take Notice To-day. This ad. will not © appear again. $150 FREé!T i GOLD | Women ‘Who can form the atest number of wi trom the letters in 1NDUSTRIOUS? Fom wen make twenty o more words, we-feel sure, and if you do you will receive a good reward. Do ‘mot use any leiter more times than it appears in the word. Use no language except English. Wort spelled alike, but with different neg.nlng, can g: used but once. Use any dictionary. Plurals, pro- nouns, nouns, verbs. adverbs, prefixes, suffix adjectives, proper nouns aliowed. Any:hing ¢ 18 & legitimate word wil be allowed. otk it out in this manner: In. into, industrious, no. not, nut, nuts, dust, dusts, Us. sit, sits. etc. Use thess words in your list. The publisher of WomaN's ‘WORLD AND JENNESS MILLER MONTHLY will pay $20 in g0!d to the person able to make ihe largest list of words from the letters in the word INDUSTRIOUS: 812 for the second largest, $10 for the third, $8 for the fourth, $5 for the ten next it ana each for the twenty-five next largest lists. The above rewards are given froe and without consideration for the purposeof at- traciing attention to our handsome woman’s maga- zine, twenty-four pages, ninety-six long columns, finely illustrated and all original matter; long and shori stories by the best authors; price $1 per year. It iS necessary for yoji to enter the contest to send twelve 2-cent stamps for a three mouths’ trial subscription with your list of words, and every person seuding the 24 cents and a Tist of twenty Words or more Is_guaranteed an exira present by return mail (in addition to the magazine), of a 200- page book, “Dorrig’ Fortune,” by Florence War- den, IA'IIVB Story of intense interest. 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