The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, November 29, 1896, Page 22

() B o THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 29, 1896 UCH time and thought, to say! nothing of Iucre, is now being expended on chic and beauti- | ful toilets for the fair debutanies, and not consider that in vroportion I do sufficient one of these three requisites ess is spent on the se- lecting and ordering of their wraps, there- fore I Itave secured for them descriptions of several' models of capes, cloaks and a | new pelerine, which is sucha delightful creation that it makes me feel like keeping | the composition just for my dearest friends. All these mode!s originated ‘in either London or Paris. The fur-lined bro- caded cape is not only a handsome but a most useful article of apparel—it can be 80 easily discarded on entering a warm or | overcrowded room. This ttern may be carried out in a great variety of fabrics, | but the one which received the highest | commendation in London was of a black | velvet sprayed with dull red roses with | their leaves. The limmng of fur makes it most comfortable round the throat, and | down the front extend trimmings of black Thibet ‘goat. For morning wear only | cloth can be substituted for the brocade. | Velvet is also in vogue, aad it is cheaper | this season thian ever before. The pelerine is composed of ermine, and breitschwaulz, most exquisite embroidery, completes it. | The muff matches. The cut is beautiful— | how gradually the collar slopes; and at | the waist line isa buckle composed of dia- monds and emeralds set in dull gold, in itself a work of art. The lining is of lus- | trous white satin, When rare lace ap- | plique-takes the place ot the embroidery, | 1his innocent fittie wrap becomes too | - costly for any not richly endowed with | this world’s goods. However, so perfect | is the shape that it will suggest many de- | lizghtful possibilities to our bright girls, | One of the handsome-t overa cloaks re- | cently remarked in Paris is here depicted, | for I am giving only examples, models of garments that have made the critical and best-dressed of women a trifle more beanti- ful and attractive than ever, This oneis in Opbelie velvet, with an application of Luxenil, lined and trimmed with the love- Jiest of chinchilla, that most deiiciously becoming and comiorteble fur. Note the aigrette in my lady’s hair; it springs, ap- pafently, from a jeweled ornament con- sisting of a great turquoise surrounded with diamonds. Each tiny spray of this aigrette sparkies with gems. Such a cicak any woman would love to possess, but I would not'be surprisad to hear its praises sung in some Eastern fashion journal a little latér on, for its destination is New York, A sortie de bal, of white satin lined with' the new pinky mauvre- shade in satin was admired recently at the opera. Over it was draped a long dalmatic in white. lampas brocaded with small flounces- of mousseline de soie, covered with a golden guipure. * It was completed by a high collar and long waistcoat of ‘eider. _An exquisite cloak we all- ad- mitted. Girls, the next tfme you are in England be sure to sesure a Simla cloak, for this “:Simla” fabric, fashioned of two cloths woven together, is as light as a f:ather, being of .a soft cashmere wool. The Tsaritsa ordered a cloak during her re- cent vigit from Scott Adie, who alone makes thecloth;which may truly be said to be a-fabric de luxe, and it is as sunable for day as the evenine. FEven the cold blasts | of aSt. Petersbure winter will not be suf- ficiently nenetrating to pierce the gar-| ment ordered by her Majesty, for it also | hes a lining of padded heliotrope brocade covered with sprays of heliotrope. .The fur that forms the collar and extends down the front 13 composad of the skin of an extremely rare Finland fox, =nd al- though of a biscuit color, is cailed “‘blue fox.”” Very smart is a driving coat ofa good fawn cloth, lined thronghout with | gray ‘and white real squirrel fur and | trimmed , witha deep collar and large revers of ‘mink fur. This model was on & dummy at a Regend-street store, and I ass sure you it was very swell, being strictly tailor-made, and what do yon think of the price, $602 I must also chronicle that ‘many of the evening’ cloaks are this season® made | of chiffon, which at first seems ab- surd - copsidering the icy Winds they are presumed to shield us from, but on inves- tigation they prove highly satisfactory as the chiffon is merely kilted over a founda- dion, cape of Satin, which is lined with ermine. Insertions'and laces frequently stripe the chiffon and add a few more five dollars to the costly trifles. Another extravagant but exceedingly pretty cloak may be made out of chine brocade with a °white ground, lined “throughout with white Mongolian goat, the large collar of this being cut In Medicis form fo turn up round the neck, Scarcely less economical is a coat in the empire stvle reaching to the hem of the gown, made of black satin lined with white bro- cade trimmed with real lace, and a collar ofsable, cuffs of sable finishing the blouse sieeves of this. Anothersnggestion for an evening cloak is torquise blue-watered poplifi “traced with siiver sequine, lined with eable, and boasting a sable collar at the neck. Sable and ermine are the only furs suitable for wearing in the evening, and thibet may be cordially recognized too, but this only looks well in white, and when allowed to form the lining as well as the collar. Od the whole, the theater cloaks this year are prettier than thes have been-for many seasons; and as, a last example of the truth of this let me quote a coat in sac shape hanginz from the neck, made of black satin, covered . with a running ap- the, . fact mest lovely blue satin, the collar of chincilla, and—by the way I bave forgot to say chincbilla is an admissible fur in the evening—looks quite lovely. | with amethysts to match the skirt, and a shot with silver. | of late for suggestions and ideas. F vligue of ecru lace, this lined with uura‘l s'eeves and bodice of the same. | The hair must be powdered and turneq off the face in a large roil, fuiler at the sides | than the top, the curled ends falling on the shoulders. Very large true Gainsborougn hat of black or colored velvet with great plumes must be worn, and high-heeled slippers and almond-colored kid mittens complete this toilet. Lady Barbara'Yelver- ton was painted by Gainsborough while attired in & plain white muslin gown with short sleeves, ruched at tne neck and el- | bows witll bows of rose-colored ribbons, | A large sash of the same shade is tied ! round her-waist, and on -her head isan | odd cap-like arrangement, much trimmed Much of the information I have given you “‘“f‘ lace. Hundreds of, costumes nqm;; you will appreciate if yon attend the com- | I‘“) u\:’gge:t f"emze'veii such F"'“s""l;;&;h ing horse show. Felix created the gor- | 'Ave been worn by Mme. ey geous dress -worn by Marie Pia, tne | arie Antoinette, or by one of the fair Dowager Queen of Portngal, at the wed- | 48mes painted by Sir Joshua Reynolds, ling of the Duke of Orleans and the | DUt remember these facts, powder was not Princess Marie of Austria. The satin, the | WorR in Encland until the reizn of magnificent broeade, the supero lace and jewels left nothing to be desired. Note | James I, and higb-heeled shoes were un- | known until the réign of Elizabeth. Gloves were unheatd of until the tenth curls was worn over the forehead and long ringlets at the back. Never wear a wig if you can ayoid it: they are most unbecom- ing, for one thing. You may think from seeing them on the stage that such is not’ the case, but remember that distance lends enchantment, and as you expect to dance yon certainiy have to stand a ciose’ inspection, and, besides, a wig almost always gives the wearer a memorable headache, as it heats the head greatly. Adverse as I am on any cccasion to recom- mending rouge, I know it is an absolute "|mecessity when the hair is powdédred, un- less the wearer's coloring is more than usually brilliant. You wiil all probably conclude before long that the prepara- tions for a fancy-dress ball are not quite assimple as some imacine, for they re- quire much prearrangement. Chit-Chat. Nowadays a bridesmaid’s bouquet must be large and tied with yards of ribbon, as the ends must be very long. If carnations are used, about fifty, intermingled with | maiden’s hair, will be sufficient; if roses, and they are large, twenty-five wifl be |enouch, as any clumsy effect must be avoided. quette, “an inyitation to a church wed- {ding alone demanas no acknowledg- ment.” X 3 The Russian coronation cupsare to be given as favors at a cotillon shortly. It has been suggested that owing to the near approach to Christmas, they should be filled with crimson carnations. I thoroughly agree with the well-known authority who renmtarked a few days ago: “Finger-bowls are useless when fruit is the exquisite cut of the skirt, the two points of the bndice in front and the quaint sleeves. This model may well be stuaied by those about to order ‘a hand- some evening gown, and says a corre- pondent: “Some of the dresses made by Worth | for Maria Pia, Dowager Queen of Portu- | gal, to wear at the wedding festivities at Rome were extremely beautiful. A mch | lampas, the shade of the Parma violet, | was covered with a mounting pattern of | sprays of roses. The siightly trained skirt was ornamented on éac’s side with an em- broidery in amethysts simulating the sun’s rays, The double-pointed bodice was high at the back, bat cut square in front, with a demi-cherusque of old point | d’Argentan and tuits of violets placed here and there in the lace. Long sleeves, rather full at the top. They are workea century. Until the Virzin Queen mounted sort of fulling of lsce at the top. “‘An evening -dress has a raised pattern in white veivet' on a maave safin ground The design was copied from some Persian material and is so | large that it takes up the whole of the | length of the skirt, and the front hasa tablier worked with diamonds. - The skirt islong at the back; the pointed bodice, in the pompadour style, i1 low ana edged | round with diamond embroidery in van- | dykes on white tulle. Below this fallsa berthe of Alencon lace worked with dia- monds and draped on the shoulders with sprays of orchids. ™ Fancy Dress Cotillon. Nnmerous are the -belles interested in a discussion of toilets for the fancy dress cotillon which will take place next month, Thus far but few have. ordered their gowns, However, if all the present iGeas take a material form a. very beautiful sight will be witnessed on that eventfu! evening. for ladies of high degree, to say | nothing of a few Princesses, will tread with a historic grace the mazes of the dance. O1d paintings, miniatures and h.stories have all béen diligently Searched Now | for a little advice: There will be nothing | economicai in purchasing cheap fabrics, the throne the hair was parted in the middie and either allowed to float on the shoulders or was bound up under a coif. Elizabeth introduced padding and frizz- ing. For Marie Stuart the hair should be wrned over side rolls, so as to fill the vacuum beneath the velvet headdress, During the time of tbe Stuarts a crop of not served, and many persons are of the CARR | opinion that in no circumstances are they i good jorm, their use being in the nature | of'a toilet operation, which is not in place | at dinner.” Persons married in travel garb have for \ attendants only a best man and maid of honor. Even when a couvle are tostart atonce ona journey, if they are married for the cost of making is the main consid- eration, and if a small amount of discre- tion is used the toilet can be readily altered so as to make it perfectly modern at a trifling expenditure. For example, take a handsome Wattean model. Rich satin, brocade and Jace are requisite. The skirt and ‘waistcoat are of satin; flounces, five in number, caught up here and there with ribbons und flowers, adorn the skirt. The “overdress” is really out a la princess, with a wide wattean pleat in the back; it may be of: either silk or brocade. It bas short panier fronts which are caught | up at the sides £0 as to givedit a bunchy | effect, and_the -square-cut neck opens on a plain satin pointéd vest, buttoned down. | the front. The top of this vest is beauti- fied by a ruche of lace; a ruche also bor- ders the entiré overdress. - The watteau train is et in a treble box- pleat between the shoulders and turns under about half way from the waist, asa pouf. The train may be either caught up with flowers, ribbons, etc., or be allowed to fall straizht. Lace edges the elbow sleeves and a black velvet band must sur- round the tnroat. The slippers should be of the brocade. The powdered hair has at the side a ciuster of flowers. Such a dress an readily be altered by a good dress- maker and do excellently well on numer- ous occasions. Ifa hat is worn it must be trimmed with either ostrich’ plumes or ribbon and flowers and be Gainsborough in shape; and speaking of this hat, re- minds me tbat a Gainsborough costume would be very effective. Consult any of his THE NEWEST Really beautiful and chic is the jacket here illustrated of baby lamb en that new shade of blue velvet embroidered in heavy black and white silken stuffed work. 4 famous portraits—for instance try, if be- coming, a rose pink satin trained skirt, and a long overskirt of a cream silk, brocaded or -sprayed with pink blos- soms and their green leaves, long THEATER HAT. According to the strictest rules of eli~I MADE FOR THE at home, the bride and groom a'hou!cthoth soon as the mourning is lightened gray bein evening dress, as it takes but so short a time to make the necessary change and a traveling dress for a bride in the evening is, te say the least, extremely try- ing. Small almost square thin cards are the most fashicnable for women. Models fcra_fi’ousseau. Have most of them originated in Paris. One striking costume has a draped bodice in leal-green bengaline. The small slightly fulled vest is of white mousseline de soie bouillonne and trimmed with ecru guip- ure. Round the skirt are eight flounces of mousseline de soie edged with black velvet, Similar flounces flare out from the shoul- ders in a sprightly. manner, extenaing over the glove-fitting sleeves, They are five in number. At the elbows are five more. The fact is that although this creation is a decided novelty it is rather hideous, I think. The collar is shaped like two crescents and reaches almost to the top of the ears, A more u-eful frock is composed of a new weave of cloth of a rich crimson. Kive V-shaped bands of velvet trim the skirt, arrariged at an equal distance. .The bodiceis c¢utlike a Louis XVI jacket and has three jeweled | battons on either side. The collar is more like a little cape, and is edged with an sccordion-pleated ruffle.of changeable taffeia silk. This also lines the dress and varies from black to green, from green to black. This cape-like collar extends in pretiy points down the iront, but the vest is of delicately embroidered white chiffon, most gracefully draped across the figore. Very unique in effect isa cape of coral colored taffeta, trimmed With long hori- zontal bands of black velvet, Russian sa- ble and diamond buckles, very original | coquille forming wings. The velvet bands are cut on the coss of the material. With this goes a black velvet skirt, trimmed with a rather wide band of sable placed about eighteen inches irom the bottom. ‘| The Duchess is evidently a tall woman from the number or lines of trimming in- troduced in every possible way to give her width. Thus far these are the only gar- ments I have heard about for this bride, but from the same capital comes news of a visiting toilet of souris taffeta, trimmed with white Jace, which descrives epau- lets, covers the softly folded beit of rib- | bon and is gathered into achou bow at the back. The bolero has fan-shaped re- vers and cloven epaulets in silver and gold Japanese embroidery and edged with | vinse! balls to match., The hat of gray tis trimmed with a handsome cluster VL -2 Ok s e e N (P G P IAGE CLOAK of: black ostrich plumes, and some softly folded white satin, covered with black tulle, encircles the erown. Extremely odd is a costume of dark green cloth. The collar, of a marvelous cut, is known as the ““Robert Macaire.” It is lined with Balmoral tartan, which matches the incroyable revers and the minute frills and fixings. is of biack velvet. The grecn felt Amazon hat is adornea with bands of black velvet and ostrich tips. A ‘‘directoire’” gown is in excellent tasie. It also is of green cloth, which is enhanced with some most artistic black binding. This is about six- teen inches deep around its hem, and be- low it is a band of Astrakban fur, which forms the blouse fronts as well. Red silk lines the bhigh collar and the entire gar- ment. Italso forms the belt, which ter- minates in a sort of windmill bow, with a lovely antique jeweled center. Braided cloth makes an eftective neckband znd a straight front. The hat is extremely ugly, so T omit a description, but this fact is noticeable—felts are being very generally worn this winter, Fur is playing its part in millinery. Narrow banas of sable or mink border green velvet toques and bonnets, often in- terblended with.a white satin foundation for the embroidery, in which gold and turquoise are combined, or steel and jet, the inevitable paste ornament finding a place at the back or front, or perhaps both. The diamond-shaped crowns of velvet of some light coior, on white satin worked in gold and silver, are frequently accom panied by black velvet brims, and we have happily not forgotien the com- fortable Dutch shape, which shows off vel- vet so well. MARCELLA. Styles fl;_ Men. Round-toed black leather walking boots laced are universally worn. With after- noon dress patent leather buttoned walk- ing boots are correct and for the evening patent leather pumps. Some of the covert coats, just out from London, are of a cloth known as “Venetian,” which has been rendered waterprouf owing to the chem- ical action of an acid. They are cut very loose and have broad backs. Down the center of the back is placed a broad band and the cuffs are finished in the same style of stiiching. Such coats are not. lined and have but one breast pocket, A man in deep mourning must wear black gloves only. Thick black driving gloves of dogskin are made by Dent. As e S0 The draped belt to call. But where a personal equation exists, formality falls to the ground, and there is no rule about it whatever, -the first call occurring by a natural process that cannot be precisely described, and when .looked back upon will bs seen to have, tike Topsy, ‘just erowed.: ”’ snede gloves are correct. The velvet collar is scarcely ever now seen on evening coats, as it was a fad that lasted but for a moment, one might say, and was at ouce frowned upon by the men who valued their reputation for smart dressing. The collars of the best evening coats are made of cloth with the silk lining within half an inch of the lapel. Coilars, I hear, are growing higher and remain stiff and straight. The colored shirt is gradually yanishing. Concerning ties Him inform$§ us: I had expected to see some exhibition of new ties, but so fdir there 1s little. to notice. The. old greens and blues, dark, almost |- black, with raised figures in the same pat- terns, are not noveities, but they are all that one sees offered these.days. I.won- der that silk neckwear manufacturers, like the carpet men and the wsu_pxper dealers, will not employ really artistic de- signers. I am weary of the fleur-de-lis, the polka dot. the crescent and_the disguised horseshoe; and as for the little white or, vellow flowers I do not care to geze on their.like again. I feel after Ilook at a selection of silks just as if I had fixed my | vision on blank space for awhile.and then suddenly closed my eyes. Now and then the patterns do resemble the .impres- sions one gets ‘when he receives a knock- down blow—stars antl zig-zags. A young man asks Vogue this week: if with propriety he can ask permission -to call on a young iady. I have so frequently been-questioned on tiis subject ihatIcan- rotdo better than quote the Tull reply, | *There is no rule. Any person who dog- matically pronounces judgment in such matters is absurd. “Your question is not one so much ot | etiquette as of human nature and good | manners."A man who in all circumstances | [ waits until a’woman asks him to call isa prig. A man who forces his acquaintance upon any one, man or womau, is a bore and a nuisance. ““When a lady wants a gentleman to call, or a gentleman wishes to call, they find some. natural way of making the matnal wish known to one another. This is when there is a friendly relation, a persoual interest. When no such relation exists, a man calls only when he is asked, or as the result of some civility extended to him; for example, an invitation to call in response to a letter of intreduction that he hss had delivered to the woman, or after getting a card to a tea, or a reception orafter adinner. Insuch caseshe calls, as a matter of course, and he ecalls promptly. 1f he does not make his first cafl within a week, or fails to call at all, he'is rude: ‘‘Perhaps this extended reply gives you the full idea; namely, that by standards of formality the man must wait for an invitation that requires a subsequent celi; or must wait for a direct invitation C.C. THE MOST ACCEPTABLE HOLIDAY -PRESENT TO ANY LADY IS A Kid Glove Order! You Can Now Get Them in Any Amount for Our 3 These Gloves have praven to be the best gleve ever shown at a popular price. We war- rant every pair. A néw pair for any that break in fitting. They are embroidered backs, large buttons and up to date in every respect. Assortments Now Complete. Black, browns, reds, tans, white, navy, green, cham- pagne, cream and grays. If you have not yet tried them come in and let us fit you with —A PAIR — NEW 7T0-DAY. Superior to any glove on the market, even at a higher price. -Thiii I‘l’.‘_ i H. 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LADIES' RAIN COATS, WITH CAPES, at. 82.25 LADIES' BLACK FIGURED MOHAIR SKIRTS at 83.25 LADIES’ MELTON JACKETS, fur-trimmed, at. .. 86.25 LADIES' JET-EMBROIDERED VELOUR CAPES at. ..$9.95 LADIES BLUE, BLACK AND TAN PAILOR-MADE CHE- VIOT JACKET SUITS, latest style, ilned thronghout and trimmed with militiry cord, at $11.75 A FULL LINE OF FUR COLLARETT IN THE NEWESY JUST ARRIVED— EFFEC1S, AT POPULAR. PRICES- 1 1 Kodak, ke Silver Tea Pot, $25. 1 e e tantea, $30. 1 Webster's Intor'l Dictionary, $10. Aad moro than 0 other prizk Con- CORSETS MADE TO ORDER AND RE- PAIRED., FIT GUARANTEED. CAUTI Having no agencles or branch stores, our Corsets can be purchased only ai ourestab- test closes Jan. 20, 1897. Yo lishment. MAKE NO MISTAKE IN OUR ADDEESS | M. FREUD @ SON, 742744 Market st. sud 10-12 Grant ave. for free sau‘fivle'mpy of Womankind containing full particulars. 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