The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, November 22, 1896, Page 22

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 22, 1896. FASHIONS CONCEITS IN FURS AND LACES The Season for Furs. In “The Case of Rebellious Susan” Henry Arthur Jones informs us that “all women look well in furs.”” Now, every one of us knows and appreciates that fact, and we are never loath to hear the latest news concerning furry fashions, even when our purses admitof no luxuries. ‘Under this head comes a white broad tail, used for revers on its appliqued black, broad tail. »uch revers are certainly at- tractive on coats of broad tail of caracole or of sealskin. The introduction of the white fur adds much to the becomingness of such wraps. Over blouse bodices are worn little fur Eton jackets. Chinchilla is again in vogue, and at a celebrated fur- store is to be seen a handsome sealskin cape with a hem and a large collar of chin- chilla. The theater cloaks lined with ermine are owned by many fashionable women, but a dark green one lined with rich sable is far handsomer. Endless is the assort- ment we are offered in boas and small shoulder capes. These are, for the most part, given a Frenchy air by the intro- duction of lace and flowers. One such cape of chinchilla has a delicate gray lining of satin and a chiffon frill of the same hue embroidered in silver. In opera cloaks there is no economy. They are made in glace figured silks, as well as in brocades, with sleeves of miroir velvet cut with enormous armholes to ad- mit of any sized epaulettes going through. A beautiful violet brocade, which reached 10 the feet, fastened across with one large revers of white satin, the embroidery pearls and gold; the sleeves in this case being of the bishop form. Apropos of fur, it is said that there are few things vrettier this season than the black fish tail, which so closely resembles satin that 1t 1s being employed in the evo- Jution of the most fascinating of jackets. These are double-breasted, and terminate at the waist. The long sleeves have a little fullness at the top. These are seen and admired at the great race meetings in England, and at the horse show in New York the same fur is also being used for capes. Fancies in Lace. Fashion is now graciously smiling in sable, chinchilla, velvet, moire and lace, the finer the quality the more stylish; indeed, lace is to be seen on everything, for with it are beautified the swellest of evening gowns, many walking dresses, numerous fur boas, quite as many seal- skin capes and hats of all descriptions, so to begin with, purchase as much fine laces, sable, etc., as you can afford before giving you winter orders. Quite clarm- ingis an evening dress just completed. It has a lace bolero, not tight fitting, buc hanging loose in pleats from the bust. This is easily arranged with a piece of flouncing, so that a narrow border may be added up the sides, the results being more than satisfactory. A dress of softest ivory satin, the property of a bride, is beautified with many yards of rare old Brussels lace from the knees to the hem of the skirt, all the way round is a lace flounce. The low bodice of the satin is draped across the fi.ure under either arm; over this falls a bolero of pleated lace, while round the waist is a narrow belt of white satin traced with diamonds. .Such a frock would be lovely in colored satin, but to bave that certain cachet real lace must be employed, for otherwise no matter how clever the imitation the result willbea complete failure. A most reasonable duchesse lace is now on the market which most can afford. The best imitation lace lacks perfection in detail, but if you atedetermined to use it you will obtain the best value for your money by selecting a fine-meshed net with a delicate sprayed design. The success of the bolero is not less than exiraordinary. Itis to be seen in many fabrics—silk, velvet, fur, lace and embroi- dery all being pressed into service. When made plain and tight a bolero is remark- ably unbecoming excepting to a perfect fignre. A bolero richly embroidered, which would excite the admiration ot most of us, is composed of a light shade of green velvet covered with large tur- quoise outlined with gold thread. Unfor- tunately this beautiful little garment fits closely and the wearer has a square waist and a flat chest. She would look far more attractive in a bolero of pleated lace, which would partially drape and cornceal the sadly angular lines. The bodice said to be the most univer- sally becomirg is the one that overhangs the belt slightly at the waist. Now some dressmakers are trying hard to make pop- ular the bodice which overhangs at the back as well as at the front. Very dainty are some shirts of tucked crepe de Chine fashioned in this manner; they overhang very narrow belts. Velvet bodices are useful belongings, and posi- tively wonderful are the ornamentations lavished on many of them with the hap- piest and most artistic results. Most of them are made to overhang a broad corselet of satin, formed of a folded bias piece of this material. This usually ter minates in wide, long sash-ends, reaching the hem of the skirt. Very successful, I hear, is a black velvet dress made with a perfectly piain skirt. The bodice is cut like a sailor blouse, with a large collar round the shoulders. It is open in front and shows a waistcoat of soft white chiffon and yellow lace. The corselet is of extra-wide biack satin ribbons, long ends of which extend to the skirt’s bot- tom. The waistcoat fastens just below the bust with two fine buttons set with diamonds. This style is worn with excel- ient result by a matron whose figure is by no means faultless. Similar bodices of soft silk are an economical investment. Buch a success was one composed of a green-plaided poplin made with a front of white and a belt of black satin, With it was worn a hat formed of frills of green velvet of three different shades, fastened at one side with an erect and drooping piume of cock’s featiers buckled with steel and emeralds. Latest Walking Costume. This consists of a skirt of the very finest broadcloth and a short velvet jacket. This jacket has taken Paris by storm and well merits a description, being of the richest Lyons velvet. It fits tightly in the back and is loose in front. 8ilk braid borders it and the two seams at the back are braided. The front is double-breasted and fastens with two rows of large, handsome buttons. This arrangement of buttons would be fatal {0 a stout woman, for, as I have be- fore remarked, the fattening effect of large buttons is astonishing, especialiy when awoman is small in stature. A Vogue correspondent says: The best dressed women in Paris, London and New York—in other words, what the faiseurs call “Varistocratiqué clientelle”’—will not wear what are termed trimmed skirts. That fur, ruching or some simple device of braid or ribbon should edge the bottom of skirts, or form simple panel lines, is to be expected; but not such trimmings as will destroy the beauty of line or grace of carriage. All that is pour les autres. Par- ticularly will this be true of walking and visiting gowns. Ball gowns are a law unto themselves when of tissues and gauzes. In the same way the cape so much worn for the past two seasons is now superseded by the Russian coat and jaquette for street wear; but as a wrap the cape will still hold its own, and extremely lovely ones in velvets, brocades and even- ing cloths are ordered by the smartest people every day. They are needed con- stantly as wraps before the ball and opera cloaks are worn. To Be Correctly Gowned. Remember that last winter's skirts are too voluminous to be worn again. = Indus- trious women, and those who have to economize, will find it quite possible, by careful manipulation, to decrease the width round the hips and in frort, but it wilt not be found necessary in most cases to make any alterations in the back. Any one who undertakes such a task should be sure to see that the bindings and silk ruffles are in good condition, as nothing can have any style about it if in the least shabby. Last winter's coats can now easily be made inodern by decreasing the size of the sleeves, and most prefer 1o still retain a slight fullness, but the leg-of- mutton effect must vanish; the fullness should never be stretched either to the right or to the left. In some cases the sleeves will be found difficult to handle, unless they have cloth strappings. In that case a seam can be put down the center to disgunise the fact beneath a strapping. The fullness of the basque may be allowed to remain, al- though it is not according, exactly, to the latest of fashion’s decrees. Dresses com- posed of a coat and skirt are still easier to make over, as they all have vests, and such smart, chic little affairs as some of them are! They really make a most or- dinary little gown dressy, as nowadays no elaboration scarcaly is considered too great for them. I lately admired oneof a patterned Indian velvet. 1t had an odd cerise ground, which appeared to be in- terwoven with a turquoise-blue thread, and over it was a raised Oriental figure in black velvet; the effect was admirable. Vests of chiffon are of great service. One of black chiffon siriped with grass-green velvet baby ribbon I liked. Ithad afoun- dation of black taffeta glace and a soft crush collar of the same shade oi green velvet. This vest made a fine black serge remarkably becoming to a dainty matron who has fair bair and blue eyes and col- oring that is ruined by immediate con- tact with biack. I have heard of another vest which is said to be very swell; it isof white cor- duroy velvet, bordered from neck to waist with a band of colored veivet edged with sable; and from Paris are some novelty fronts of alternate bands of fine broad in- sertion and tucks of chiffon, edged with narrow bands of sable. The way such vests should be finished at the neck varies according to the size and length of the wearer’s throat. The woman with the long throat should carry out a sort of stocklike effect with the chiffon, but her short, plump sister mus: content herself with a few soft folds. The most univer- sally becoming of vests are of some soft fabric in white or cream, but for econom- ical winter wear 1 recommend that shades of periwinkle blue, mauve, turquoise in chiffon or mousseline de soie be selected, also excellent are many of the handsome plaided silks; the green plaid is, for the moment, the most stylish. With her blue serge dress a stylish school girl wears a green plaid silk front with a white linen collar and a green stock of a brighter shade than that which appears in the check, but I have for this week given suf- ficient suggestions for vests. Sleeves con- tinue to be a subject of warm interest. For evening wear fashionable women are coming back to the small emnpire puff as far as size is concerned, but the simple piece of material gathered at either edge is a thing of the past. There is generally a close-fitting band beneath, which pre- vents the under arm being unduly seen, Above this are small double flounces of thin material, or a puff which is gathered at intervais perpendiculerly. The upper puffs, by means of swansdown stuffing or being gathered over wire or whalebone, or crossway folds in the thicker stuffs, as- sume a breadth which permits them to support as they should the cape trim- mings of the bodice. Some are using wire to support bows, sleeves, flouncings, but it needs the most careful usage or it gives a bard, unnatural stiffness. But few will object to the return of the tuck, as it has the merit of being both simple and inexpensive. Tucks are seen covering the lower portion of sleeves, and they also border the hems of skirts and are carried across, horizontally, the front of morning gowns, and they entirely cover the front of many full evening bodices, when of gossamer fabrics, they are then drawn together and much puck- ered. Small flounces have appeared on the up- per portion of numerous sleeves. They almost, or guite, cover many skirts, and a large number of the latest fronts are adorned with them. Asa natural result, the question arises, how should they be bordered? The most effective and fash- ionable bordering thus far discovered isa narrow black velvet put just above the edge, or a slightly wider bordering of either mink or sable, for the most costly of furs are sacrificed, without compune- tion apparently, for such uses, but how the dressmakers manage to sew the fur on the chaffon so successfully is an unsolved mystery, as far as I am concerned. The latest basques remain shallow, but they are wideno longer, and before many moons, there is not the least doubt, that basques will be much longer, and as the long, close-fitting basque of the riding- habit is the thing, the next thing we will | be wearing dresses modeled on the form of a riding-dress. Boleros continue to enjoy a great amount of popularity, but the fact remains that they smt few figures. The bolero back is never attempted uniess the fizure can stand it. However, the fronts are gener- ally becoming. Lace boleros are the mode, the heavy guipure in russet, or the finer cream-white variety, the latter one most popular. ‘They are adding extremely narrow lisse or mousseline plisse ruches to the eages of them, as we see on recently arrived Paris frocks. In most cases it does beget an added charm. ‘When made upon cloth or woolen goods of any sort the bolero is edged with vel- vet, fur, braid or embroidery. Some cloth gowns are beautified by the addition of velvet or fur boleros, when velvet is utilized. in topazes and diamonds. A black-satin girdle and long sash complete it. Most beautiful is a dress of black tulle, em- broidered with diamond vats. A deep band covered with these gems encircles the waist. The sleeves have a band oidiamonds a jour and black tulle. The sleeves have been much admired and such a gown may be built over either glace taffeta or black satin, There are many changes in low bodices. A biack velvet one indicates the certain return of the pointed court bodice, which is, after all, the most ladylike and becom- ing style for a good figure. In this case the center seam down the front seemed to have been opened and a fullness of netem- broidered in steel and jet let into it, the embroidery being carried round the bod- ice on the side seams. It was intended to be worn with a black velver skirt, and the sleeves were slightly wired in order to give the desired effect of standing well out and appearing square from the shoulders. Thus far not more than one or two of our belles have decided what they wiil wear to the fancy-dress ball, as considerable thought is necessary before arriving at any consideration. So, not until the st of December will the orders for most of the costumes be given. In my next article I will give you my ideas concerning toilettes for that occa- sion. MARCELLA. . Styles for Men. Our correctly garbed men will certainly be more amused than even H. R. H. when If vou own a handsome lace shawl and can find a bright woman to drape it cor- rectly the snccess of a charming evening gown is assured, but if you havea grad- uated set of real lace flowers, wellg-allow me to congratulate you, as Felix has just created for one of his royal patronesses a pink satin ball gown, the skirt of which has three flonnces of point de Venise, richly jeweied with diamonds, pink turquoises and emeralds. The very low cut bodice is literally covered with the jewels, the sleeves are composed of a soft fall of this well-nigh priceless lace. In- deed, lace is agogd investment, even if the first outlay seems rather appalling, for look at the amount we fritter away in chiffons, crepe, lisse, etc., all so perish- able. Winter Evening Bodices. The low-cut bodices now being sent home for the winter’s campaign are many of them worthy of our enthusiasm. For instance, imagine a simple one of pink satin, trimmed with creamy lace. The whole front is covered with large, soft, silky-pink roses. They are placed so artistically that the wearer's fizure is not in the least concealed. A pretty debu- tante’s zown 1s of white tulle over white satin ruches, and frillings of the tulle trim it, as they are carried down each seam and encircle the skirt; again the frillings appear on the bodice, inter- mingled with rose-pink ribbons. OQur artist this week depicts a lovely white tulle bodice, with bows of shaded lilac ribbons; the foundation is of the same colored silk. The rose-pink satin one has a2 wreath of roses round the topof the bodice and these are veiled with tulle; lace frills also adorn it.” The bodice of black velvet is handsomely embroidered LA LOIE FULLE I bave just had a peep at some of La Loie Fuiler's dresses, and they prove once more that Paris is unrivaled in the pro- duction of feminine garments. Her gowns are all like nerself, full of ever-changing expressicn, and Mr. Redfern of Paris has certainly studied his charming client’s peculiarities as an artist studies his model. For instance, every one of Miss Fuller’s dresses is cut in a small square to show her lovely column throat, and, as she never wears a4 corset, mostof them are lined with a very thick ‘‘coutil’ to give support to the fizure. The seams in the they read the foilowing extract from an English fashion journal: The Prince of Wales must be amused to learn that the jeunesse doree of America throughout the length and breadth of the Continent are 1 stately stiffness, such as we are wont to associate with London and the English of forty years ago. Our collars also are stiff and uncompromising, our frock coats have almost a perfect square cut, with just the suspicion of a waist, and the top hat de- scribes an almost perfect geometrical square. The brown derby has also suffered, and the most fashionable bowler to wear With a lounge suit is one high and slightly square of crown, with brim fairly wide ana curly and covered with a thick black cloth. The white waisteoat, double- breasted and pleasing to the eve, has suc- ceeaed the fancy fawn-colored affair which is now only worn with business clothes; Isay the word business, because we have reached an era of usefulness. We want at present to look like capitalists.”” ., C. — The Pleasure of Perfume. *‘Some people,” said the large and portly person to the Washington Star reporter, as they stood in a drugstore with a caseful of perfumes spread before them, *‘don’t seem to exercise one bit of judgment the selection of a perfume. What they appear to want is something that will find its chief function in conceahag some other smell which is less pleasant. “It isn’t so with me. To me there is sentiment in smell, if you will permit the alliteration, and L buy my perfume be- cause of the sentiment. When I was younger I don’t know but that I bought about as other people did and still do; but now, having given up the frivolities of the gay world, I live more in the past, and I love to think of what the worid ‘was to me as a boy. I lived in the country, and when one has started from the ground he never quite forgets his starting point. I might say he never ceases to love it. Now here,” said the large and portly person, picking up a bot- tle of some fashionable scent, ‘‘this is an odor that reminds me always of crowded bullrooms, of women in satins and laces, of men in full dress, of music and dancing and wine and long "hours into the night and heaviness and sorrow in the morning. Do you think I want to get a whiff of that sort every e I take out my handker- chief? Here's another. This reminds me of theaters, on the stage and off; the glare of lights, the temptations, the joys, the iriumphs, the defeats, the late suppers, the bitterness, the broken hearts, the every- thing that a man would rather forget and a woman can never forget. Not any per- fumed reminders of that kind if you please. “There are others that are equally un- desirable, and there are others that are so artificial that they remird me of nothing, and they are, if anything, worse than the others. | “Now this,” and the large and portly | person picked up a bottle, “‘is what I use | because it 1s redolent of the farm. When I catch a breath of it it makes me a boy again, and Ican see the old fence across LATEST EVENING STYLES. indulging—since His Royal Highness' good-natured purchase at Spitalfields—in brocade waistcoats of all colors and pat- terns imaginable. Twenty-five years ago there was a rage in New York for gay waistcoats, and the fashion quite suddenly died out. The tailors and manufacturers were left with hundreds of yards of rare silks upon their hands, and many of these are reproduced as ‘“‘antiques” to supply the present great demand. An English writer says: ‘A black bow or knot should always be worn with a white or fawn waistcoat. A little patch of black at the throat tones down the ex- tensive open space of lightness and effects & pleasing and stylish contrast.” At the present moment conservatism is the watchword, all "desires for picturesque etfects having vanished. Tan and dogskin gloves are much worn, the gray shade having taken second place ever since the winter goods began to arrive, Haberdashers in New York are making their windows quite gorgeous with brilliant ties in red, green and saffron hues, but all their exertions cannot make them ‘‘take.” No one need restrict himself to black ties, as check bows and ‘“‘a biv of tartan in blues and greens” make an agreeable change. Him remarks: “I find that the black club tie will be so the clover field, I can almost touch the clambering vines, I can feel the ribble of the first spring fish at my pin hook, I can hear the cows in the pasture, I can see the blue skies up through the leafy shade of the big old tree in the front yard, I can see it all, I can hear itall, I can feel it all, and I hold the bot- tle in my hand as a treasure greater than that lamp of Aladdin’s, which brought him gold for the rubbing of it; for what this perfume brings to me is what all the gold in the world can never bringtoa man when once be has let it slip from his grasp in his grasping for what is worth so much less.” The large and portly person was silent for as much as a minute, gazing as if at something which was not of the earth. Then he spoke again. “Yes,”” he said to the clerk, ‘‘you may wrap me up a bottle of this and give one to this gentleman also,” nodding with a persuasive smile at the reporter. ————— ‘When terrified the ostrich travels at the rate of twenty-five miies an hour and clears twelve to fourteen feet at a stride. ————— The whiskers of the walrus extend three or four inches out from the snout. They are quite stiff and become stiffer with age. ‘They are plucked sevarately and exported to China, where they are used as tooth- much worn that it requires a certain * picks. R'S ARTISTIC PARISIAN GOWNS form a sort of boa, and'the wnost daring combinations are indulged in. Velvet is worn upon velvet of a different color, and every seam is concealed by a line or shining spangles, Tbere is mno hard, metallic giisten in these spangles; they are all of subdued coloring, such as helio- trope, old rose and faint blue, a shimmer of delicate hues melting into one an- other. Every woman who aspires to be relieved of the burden of corsets should stndy the make ot Loie Fuller’s costumes, from her simple little blue pacha, or coarse-grained alpaca, which isa gem in sort of princess gowns she affects are made 80 as to give length to the waist, end the skirt, which is one with the bod- ice, is cut, like her dancing dresses, in nar- row gorges that widen at the bottom after the fashion of a cartwheel. ‘When the pretty dancer sits down the material falls around her feet quaintly and full, like the portraits we see of our granni ‘What costly and enviable trifles have passed before my vision to-day! Dainty neckbands of velvet cut on the cross and finished with a butterfly bow of velvet and narrow lace edging; fluffy large silk poppies nestle in garlands to itself, to the grandest conception of a gown for ceremonious receptions. The hats and muffs by Virot are worthy of the now famous name they bear. Itis by beauty of detail that Parisian frocks win the day. A sleeve finished in a certain way, a roll of velvet,a collar; nothing tangible, but just a dainty tinish- ing touch to make it perfect. & The dress of blue alpaca 1 first saw La Loie in suits her admirably. It is very full and made from a yoke. The full puffed sleeves have a bracelet or cuff folded in folds, one over the other, to imi- tate a tucked material. With thisa long driving coat of blue alpaca is worn, orna- mented with large white pearl buttons and acurious sort of strap, which sup- ports the fuliness of the bust. One I most admired was a black satin, with sleeves of moire striped with hair lines of blue, pink, gold and heliotrope. With a yoke of the same on the shoulders are three deep and leaf-snaped vpoints, outlined like par- row guipure, plentifully ornamented with bright spangles. Bands en- tirely composed of spangles en- circled the neck. The muffs are nests of flounces in velvet or satin. They bristle with ostrich lips, birds on single ¢ilk roses in the new shade of apricot-pink. Violent ciashing contrasts of color suit La Loie, who never looks prettier than when purples and blues are swearing at each other in her headgear. ‘She does not care for trinkets, save a few special favorites, but revels in costly furs and filmy laces, It is a pretty sight to see her flitting about in her full skirts attending to her mother, Who 18 in delicate health, with all a most devoted daughter’s care, and few who see her at night growing into a living lily on 8 bird woman ever guess what the other side of her life is like. FROM GREATER NEW YORK. A Budget of Interesting News and Qossi About the California Colony 5 P in the Eastern Metropolis. NEW YORK, N. Y., Nov. 16.—The town went mad last week. Society put on its most gorgeous finery and swooped down on the Madison-square Garden like a cloud of gauzy-winged locusts. 1t was the week of the annual horse show, and everybody was in a whiriwind of excitement and delight. Even the horses seemed to appreciate ana enjoy the importance of the brilliant affair. Mr. and Mrs. Nabob elbowed Mr. and Mrs. Parvenu without knowing it, and Miss Winking Soubrette jostled pretty wide-eyed Miss Society Bud in the most reckless manner. Millionaire bankersand their families vied with millionaire bakers’ and saloon-keepers’ families. Actors and statesmen, queens of society and queens of the stage, “‘chappies”’ and ‘‘chappiettes” mingled together like flies about a barrel of sorghum molasses. The glossy, well-groomed horses peered over their stalls and whinnied a glad lit- tle welcome to the thousands of silken- robed, perfumed women and well-groomed men. The glare of electric lights made their beautiful big eyes blink in astonish- ment, but they didn’t care—they were happy, ecstatically happy—becanse _for six long days and six long nights the metropolis of the Nation saw fit to make them, the faithful horses, the idols of wor- ship. The triumph was glorious in this age of bicycles. The twelith annual horse show was a grand success in every respect. There are only one or two faults to be found in the way horses are treated in these faddish days. First, it is cruel to dock a horse’s tail. It not only causes the horse agony, but it maimsone of God’s most beautiful and useful animals. Sec- ond, it is an absurd and inhuman custom to put checkreins on horses. A check- rein ruins the natural, graceful arch of the neck, gives the muzzle an awkward poise, strains the back and loins and throws all the weight, when drawing a load, on the hindquarters. This is unfair. It is surprising 10 see the number of in- telligent folk who still cling to the old- fashioned idea that a horse should have “blinders” and check-rein, double bit and martingale, crupper and heavy collar be- fore the torture and disfigurement are complete. It is enough to make the human lover of horses weep for pity. Al! the large cities are unanimous in doing away with the barbarous fitters, and the City authorities do not permit them on any of the horses driven to the City’s pub- lic conveyances, all of which goes to prove that a horse will behave itself in good style when it is treated humanely. Genial John Kelly had several Western- bred horses in the show. He seemed in excellent spirits all through the week, and as one of his favorites won a blue ribbon he had every reason to congratu- late himseif as much and often as his many friends did. There has always been a misty pink halo of romance surround- ing John Kelly’s manly figure ever since his marriage several years ago; but that is an old story and we will not gossip over it Among the prettiest and most stun- ningly gowned women at the show were Miss Virginia Fair and Mrs. Wiil Hobart. They were the center of attraction for awhile on Wednesday night. A. C. Bonnell of Hollister thought the horse show & howling success and a won- derful institution. Mr. Bonnell has been in New York for some time. and bas about decided to make this his future resiaence. He has been quietly investi- gating, preparatory to making some good investment here. In the meantime he has wired Mrs. Bonnell to come on and join him, before he decides to remain in Gotham permanently. Like all great men Claus Spreckels is modest and retiring in his ways with the world of strangers. He and Mrs. Spreck- els slipped into New York quietly and un- heraldea several weeks ago, and a few days ago they just as quietly slipped out again and were carried homeward before any one realized their intentions, i con- sequence of which there were many dis- appointed friends and acquaintances. J. K. C. Hobbs, who met with such a serious loss by fire recently, is here for the purpose of buying machinery to replace that which was destroyed. In a conversation with him, he ex- pressed himself most encouragingly re- garding California and the outiook. He predicts a ‘‘great business boom” throughout the West, and says already the change for the better is being experi- enced by business men. "He laughingly exclaims that “New York is so blessed cold these November days it's enough to drive a man to ‘strong liquids.’ Dr. R. C. Meyers and sister returned from a several months’ tour of Europe last week. The rest and change of scene have great- Iy improved the doctor’s health during his absence. His many friends will regret that he will not be in California for some time yet, as he and his sister will remain in and about New York, sightseeing. “We are out for a good time,”” declares the doc- tor, *‘and we are going to stay until we are tired out.” Thomas McD. Potter and wife are guests at the Grand Hotel. They arrived direct from Los Angeles last Wednesday. Dining at Delmonico’s the other even- ing was H. K. Travis Jr., who had just reached New York direct from dear old San Francisco. He1s here on important business, the objective point being the renewal of one of the big Eastern contracts controlled by paterfamilias, and will probably be with us some little time. ‘When “Harry” returned to California, three years ago, many of his friends pre- | dicted that he was such a thorough New Yorker he would soon come back; but he didn’t until now, and already he has ex- pressed the desire to be in the land of the Golden Gate. = R. A. Nelson of Los Angeles left for home last Friaay night, having spent the summer and autumn with relatives in New England. Coloncl H. M. Van Arnum, once Governor of Arizona ana for many vears closely connected with the Southern Pe- cific Railroad, is in New York for the first time since last spring. Colonel Van Arnum was here on a land deal of considerable magnitide. He leit town Saturday night for California, stop- ping at Chicago about a week. His in- jured ankle is growing stronger and he has about recovered complete control of it, On Thursday evening the colonel was the guest of General La Grange at the horse show, and appeared. in a gorgeous outfit befitting the gay occasion. Charles Wellman, at one time manager of the Baldwin Hotel and an old resident of California, 1s negotiating for a New York City hotel. if he succeeds in his plans he will have as pretty and comfort~ able a house as New York affords, Just eighty-one years ago last Thursday Elizabeth Cady Stanton was born. I called at her home, Sixty-first street, to congratulate her on her eighty-first birth- day, and found the grand old lady sitting in a high-backed chair, cheerfully chat ting with & number of friends who had called on the same mission I had. Mrs. Stanton is one of the greatest wowmen in America to-day. She is a Radi- cal, and many of the strait-laced do not like her for that, but she laughs in ner jolly whole-souled way, and declares that “if ‘more folks would read her ‘Women's Bible,” they would change their opinions about some things.” She is in excellent health, and says that she feels as though she would love to live always. Life is so sweet and she has so much to do before she will be ready to die. Charles H. Holt and wife are guestsat the Gilsey. Samuel C. Boyd was in the city all of last week. TrELLA Fortz TOLAND. NEW TO-DAY. B. & H. CIL HEATERS Are known to be the best made— easily cared for, satisfactory, pos- itively no smoke or smell. There’s comfort and econ- omy in every cent of the $5.50 it costs. There is po other stove “*just as good” or the *same as.” The “B. & H.” can only be had of s THAT BIG CHINA STORE— A Quarter of a Block Below Shreva's. WANGENHEIM, STERNHEIM & CO. 528 and 530 Market St., 27 and 29 Sutter St., Freud’s Corset House. SPECIAL SALE OF CORSETS. S’ BLACK and DRARB S -FITTING FRENCH MODEL , regular price $1 50, will be closed ) SOLE AGENTS FOR THE Empire Stays, for the Stalla Chest Form and the Stella Hip Forms. Smdy S g EEgE £z He & E o vf=3 £ g @ e = s 15 - ZEE= &a 28<3 B oy xrBEQ c B "o s B A . B -] = & A 5 CORSETS MAPE TO ORDER AND RE- PAIRED. FIT GUARANTEED. CATUTION—Having no agencies or branch stores, our Corsets can be purchased only &t our estab- lishment. Mail Orders receive prompt attention. Tilustrated Catalogue mailed iree. MAKE NO MISTAKE IN OUR ADDRESS M. FREUD <& SON, 742-744 Market st. aud 10-12 Grant ave. FINE FURS AND SEAL- e SKIN GARMENTS e To order. Remodeling an: repairing at prices far below those of any other furrier on the Pacific Coast. LLL WORK GUARANTEED. AD. KOCOUR, EgHionasLe 8% Hearny Street, Upstairs—Upposite Chronicle. Formerly cutier with Revillon Freres, Paris, London and New York. A G R0 T AT O S M T GENUINE ROXBURY BRUSSELS CARPET, 15C A YARD, SEWED AND LAID. SHIREK & SHIREK, 747 Market Street, BRAHMAN Foods and Tissue Builders is rev ommended by physicians for purity and eficacy. It removes freckies and tan, prevents rrinkles and renders the skin soft, smoo clear, and white. Itoures chapp hands, chapped ii , and many skin iseases. Prlol& cents. Sold by And st PACIFIC COAST AGENOY, Room % m Donohoe Building, 1170 Market ., 5. F.