The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, November 15, 1896, Page 22

22 ' THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 15, 1896. FOR THOSE WHO WISH TO BE IN THE FASHION At thelast Grand Prix jackets and capes were both in evidence. The dresses were almost all in excellent taste, but no es- pecial novelties were noted. However, it is well to know that tne bodices fitted closely and were elaborately trimmed, most of them with mohair braid, as the silk wears shabby so very rapialy. The skirts were not as full as they have been, and were gored, but flat on the nips. One beautiful Duchesse (de Brissac) was in mouse-gray cloth, the skirt was ahsolutely plain; the bodice had short basques and revers opening over a waistcoat of exqui- site antique velvet, with a high collar of chinchilla. This most becoming fur was not in vogue last winter, but this season it is restored to popular favor in Paris and the East,and asa result is in great de- i mand. Worn with this toilette was a high-crowned black velvet hat with white feathers and loops of black velvet. Com- tesse de Kels was most picturesquely at- tired in grenat cloth, braided with black round the hem and up the seams. Her hat was adorned with folds of red velvet and ropes of black beads. Princess Murat had on a green cloth skirt stitched round the bottom (exactly a dozen rows), mounted with three small flat pleats at the back, black satin blouse bodice with pleats, flat sleéves having but shght full- ness at the shoulders only, held with twists of black passementerie; hat with a crown composed entirely of black cut jet beads, and a brim of empire-green satin laid in folds. A black aigrette completed it. Extremely handsome also was a cos- tume of dark-blue vigogne, with blouse of blue satin confined with a richly beaded black belt and embroidered in gold and cut jet. It fastened with a most gorgeous and unique clasp. The short cape of old Venetian point over bleck satin was charming, and will be copied widely, as over a bright-hued silk or satin it would be just the thing for evening wear. The high crowned gray feit hat which went with it trimmed with a violet aigrette and velvet of the same color was the creation of an artist. Simple and handsome was another gown worn on the same occasion, it being of a fine black cloth finely braided, the jacket of an iron gray cloth was embroidered in black. It was stylish, as was the hat of black felt trimmed with a black aigrette and some beaded velvet. Apropos of capes and jackets, smart women are wearing capes only when out driving and in the evening, never when walking; they are useful and indispensable articles, but should not be abused. In Paris the elegantes now wash their hair with paraffin, instead of water or shampoo, and a well-known London hair- dresser is introducing the same method there. Paraffin is a wonderful cleanser. But the greatest precaution, owing to the inflammable nature of paraffin, must be taken in its use. Care of Clothing Is a subject but hittle comprehended by some women; as a result many with mod- erate incomes look decidedly shabby when there is no real reason for it, simply, for instance, because after paying a round of calls or after a wearisome day’s shopping they return home exhausted, neglect to brush their clothes and do not givea glance to see whether there is a stitch needed anywhere, so naturally the dust gets ground into the garment and very likely the next time the gown is donned it is in haste and a pin takes the place of the missing hook or eye, or the silken ruffle, perhaps, has a slight tear which a pin has to hold together. Of course, the pin in- jures the goods and the ruffle will proba- bly tear badly, and such is the peginning of the end. Mothers should teach their daughters, from the time they are chil- dren, to hang up their gowns and wraps as soon as they take them off, after care- fully dusting and mending them as neatly as possible; and every ore should remem- ber that all dinner, ball and handsome gowns must be kept from the air and the slightest exposure to dampness or dust. Any observing person can detect at a glance the sort of care clothes receive. There is no way to elude the mark of per- sonal carelessness, it speaks loudly from every point and tells the story plainly to the world. That is the evidence by which we detect the frumpiness and untidiness of some of our friends in contrast to others who are always spic and span, as if they had come out of that proverbial bandbox so often quoted. Many women excuse themselves (when fortune no longer smiles upoa them) from keeping up a well-groomed appearance by laying the blame on the want of a maid or their own helpleseness to do for themselyes. Such a plea instead of being an excuse is in reality accumulative evidence of innate laziness and untidiness, Every woman who cannot afford a maid is able to supply the want by her own hands and go through certain duties to her person and clothes every day of her iife unless she is a confirmed invalid, utterly helpless. A Novel Collarette. Quite a beautiful collarette has'arrived in town. Itreaches to about six inches below the shoulders, is of ermine cut in square ends all around, thus, two squares down the back, one large one extends over each shoulder and there are three in front; a high collar of the same fur is also cut into squares, and between each is in- troduced an accordion pleated ruche of black mousseline de soie. It is lined with white satin. Another differs from it slightly, as the high collar is of black vel- vet with a lining of ermine. A Dainty Tea Gown. Quite beautiful are the tea-gowns I have had illustrated for you, but one lately sent home has a back cut in the Wattean style of a lovely flowered silk. Over a cream white ground are scattered great pink roses. Long ends of the silk float down the front, and the big Medici coliar of lace, skillfully wired, is apparently held in place in the back by boullonnes and bows of pink satin ribbon. The skirt is of the most exquisite quality of closely corded creamy silk, but it is completely veiled by the fine Frencn lace which falls from the throat to the feet. The belt and yoke are of rarely fine imitation gems. “A Smart Frock.” Fancy a smart little gown cf an excel- lent shade of brown Amazon cloth. The vest is of a most becoming shade of green cloth. It is made with an absolutely plain skirt and an artistic litile tabbed Zouave, with two shoulder capes; the softly folded waistband, the novelty col- lar and yoke effect, the Zouave, capes and sleeves are all braided by hand, with wide black military braid. For a schoolgirl very smart isa gray tweed frock with tabs and buttons and a braided front in black. The-slecves are also braided. The crush collar is of erim- son taffeta and round the skirt inside is a irill of the same silk. Two Cozy Dressing Gowns Belong to as many brides. One of these is of a new materinl known as *‘swans- down molleton.” It is covered with a large check 1n light blue, the ground being of a biscuit color. The great turned- down collar of white silk is beautifully embroidered in blue silk and edged with cream guipure lace. Wide blue silk rib- bons tie it in front, The other is of a cream flannel adorned with quite elabor- ate insertions of edging of butter-colored lace. Numberless tucks are on the bodice, and round the skirt is a broad-gathered flounce. Private Theatricals. Scarcely ever have San Francisco society matrons or maids undertaken to givea play, no matter how simple, that has not been brilliantly successful, and it is to be hoped that during this winter smateur theatricals may receive due attention, A Paris correspondent writes that the pri- vate and amateur theatricals at the Chatean de Josselin were very successtul, and as the costumes worn by the Duchesse de Rohan and her daughters are described, I quote the descrintions, as the play is a pretty one, which could easily be given in any large house. The play chosen wa “Les Danicheffs’’: “The part of Comtesse Danicheff was played in plain violet vel- vet, the low bodice surrounded with Alencon lace and a necklace of threc rows of enormous pearls. In the part of Prin- cess Lydia Velanoffs, a vert d’eau satin skirt quite plain was worn, with pretty low bodice of pink crepe plisse, in the hair aigrette of feathers and diamonds. A traveling dress was of mouse gray cloth with silver embroidery, bodice with short basques and revers embroidered with silver. and a full gnimpe of spangled gray crepe; large Vandyke hat of drawn black tnlle and immense black plumes. The part of Anna was played first mna Russian costume, and at the end of the plav the dress was pink taffetas with fuil plisse sleeves, blouse bodice draped, and ruches of pink tulle round the neck and en jabot.” ‘“‘As to the skirts of dresses, they are made clearing the ground, sometimes with a stiffening of horsehair or such like tissue in the hem, sometimes without it. They are gored rather in the umbrella style, but not much gored at the back, leaving fullness enough to make three flat double vleats at the back. The skirts of thick material are generally made plain. If trimming is used it must be flat zalons or passementeries, flouncings or fullings not being suitable for heavy stuffs.” I wish women would realize the fact that a skirt pattern which suits perfectly a short, stout woman will not be suitable for ber tall, slender sister; also that the pattern for a walking-skirt cannot be transiormed into an evening one by tack- ingon a train. The result is sure to be extremely absurd. If you only take care to investigate you will find that for every imaginable occasion and for all styles of women special skirt patterns are to be had, and these emanate from the great Parisian designers. “HA Pretty Model.” I am sure you will all appreciate a dress made of one of the pretty ribbed cloths in pigeon gray, and such a groy as may be worn in the street in midwinter. The skirt is perfectly plain and wonderfully well hung. The bodice is round—fitted with & very deep black velvet yoke, quite square—braided with a flat purpie ribbon braid in scrolls. Side pieces of black vel- vet similarly braided seem to be a part of the yoke, entering the sleeve seams as well as the seams of the boaice under the arm. They curve prettily in front, jacket style, and end at the hips in a round curve, The cloth back is tucked and drawn into a black velvet belt, which slips under these side pleces and fastens with a buckle of brilliants and gold work. In front, while the cloth is drawn down into a slight point, the sides only are laid in tucks, a cluster of five each, which come from under the velvet side pieces, leaving the cloth plain in the center. To harmomze with this costume nothing more charming than a purple veivet toque could be worn, with its drapery combined with yellow lace and clusters of violets peeping out here and there, and aigrette twists of vel- vet at the side. Suggestions for the Men. A man from Brooklyn writes, asking a New York journal if a frock coat is proper for an informal occasion, such as a call, when evening dress 1s not worn. Now much the same question has just been asked me. I can easily cover every point by giving the journal’s reply, as on ali such matters it is undoubted authority. “Consideration as to appropriateness of dress only becomes of importance when formality is the leading id Any kind of dress is appropriate’ for in- formal occasions, for informality means there being po strict rules what- ever. The guide for informal occasions is that one shouid learn how others are to dress and to dress about as they do. Asa matter of formality, a frock coat is strictly an afternoon coat and should not be worn in the evening. In New York gentlemen do not make calls in the evening in frock coats ualess they happen to be on terms of great familiarity with the people on whom they call, wearing anything but evening dress being in the nature of a liberty taken. And in New York society formal calls are not made in the evening, but in the afternoon any day of the week.”’ All ties are wider and broader for even- ing and semi-evening wear, and are tied in a manner that suggests something of the French style, but are not so pro- nounced. Men nowadays take a certain pride in imparting to their ties an air of individuality. Fancy waistcoats with huge plaid checks and bars on a drab background were imported, presumably for our young ‘‘couniry squires,” but are quite dreadful. As a result the “country squires” have not.taken kindly to them, neither does the correctly turned out New Yorker pay any attention to the wild rumors concern- ing embroidered waistcoats for evening wear, and any display of jewelry is con- the brideis in traveling dress, the bride- groom, best man and ushers wear frock- coats, with waisicoats to match, of black vicuua, gray trousers, white shirt and collar, white four-in-nand or Ascot, top hat and patent leather shoes. The guests should appear at the church in afternoon dress. A reception afterward would not, unless it began after 7 o’clock, necessitaie evening dress. i Purists in dress insist that a man should always be in the same style of dress as the woman accompanying him. Forexample, if the woman has a tailor-made gown, he should be in tweeds or afternoon dress. If she is in evening dress he should be also And that applies to a theater or a public restaurant in the evening. If a woman has a tailor-made gown and is dining in it in the evening the man should not be in evening dress but should be in afternocon dress. At a wedding where the brideis ina traveling dress, as is sometimes the case when she ieaves the church to proceed directly to a train without an intervening reception, the groom would wear a dark traveling suit of tweed. If she hasa re- ception gown (in other words an after- noon dress) he would wear a frock coat; or if she has a bridal gown high in the neck, as all bridal gowns are in this country, he would wear a frock coat. 1f the wedding isin the evening he would wear an even- ing suit. This is the exact idea. Present custom, however, has the bridegroom almost invariably in a frock coat for any morning or afternoon church wedding. MARCELLA. Protection From Lightning. Tt has long been held from practical ex- perience that the network of wires now found in many towns protects those places from the effects of lightning, and probably also prevents many thunder- storms from breaking over them. An official inquiry has been recently made in Germany as to the influence exerted by telephone wires on atmospheric elec- tricity, with a view to set at rest the ques- tion whether danger from lightning- stroke is increased or diminished by a close network of wires. This has shown that the wires tend to weaken the violence and diminish the danger of the lightning- stroke. Returns obtained from 340 towns provided and from 560 not provided with a telephone system show that the danger varies, on the average, in the proportion of 1 to 4.6 between the two cases. ————— Hints for Stamp Gollectors. The following are some of the varieties of tricks practiced by unscrupulous per- sidered an indication of hopelessly bad taste to say the very least. Brown and gray tweeds are the most fashionable colors for this winter. The morning or business suit which is the most popular is the sack coat having three buttons, the waistcoat and trousers being of the same fabric. As yet the morning coat, 0 much lixed in England, has not been adopted in this country. Itis made of cheviot or vicuna, with long tails, but at the bottom the skirt 1s narrow. Iu cor- responds to our old cutaway. Across the pond it is worn as a suit neghge. C. C. So numerous are the questions asked as to what a groom shouid wear when a bride wears a tailor gown thatI consider it best to give you Vogue's very excellent reply to such a question: At a 6 o'clock church wedding, when sons, says Harper’s Round Table: 1. Ordinary perforated stamps with ex- ceptionally wide margins have their per- forations trimmed off, and such stamps are offered as rare unperforated stamps, 2. Ordinary perforated stamps with wide margins are reperforated with the rare perforations. This is frequently done by means of an ordinary hand punch. 3. Where stamps are printed in thesame color, with slight changes in lettering, the rare varieties are made by piecing. For instance, the 1 franc French Empire is made by tak#hg the 80 centimes, dark car- cime, with the bottom label from the 1 franc of the republic. 4. Bicolored stamps with the center re- versed, which are extremely rare, are made by cutting out the center ana revers- ing 1t on another copy of the same stamp. For instance, the 1869 Unitea States 15- cent, 24-cent and 90-cent have been made by this process. 5. By chemical means the color is changed. For instance, the 10r blue of Brazil is changed into the 10r black. 6. Stamps which baye been canceled by pen and ink have their cancellation marks removed by chemical means, and these stamps are then sold as unused. 7. Counterfeit cancellations are fre- quently made on genuine stamps whlc]} bave been surcharged “reprint’’ or ‘‘speci- men.” 8. Counterfeit surcharges are extremely common. They can be made on an ordi- n rinting press. £ ‘!)’.’yll",nlse wgnrer- marks are sometimes made by printing the stamps with wood- cuts, using a certain kind of oil, or they are made by pressing the design of the w'nter- marks on the stamp and then removing a portion of the paper by rubbing with pumice-stone. 10. Very rare stamps of which a porf.lon has disappeared have had these portions added. Taking Gold. Any one who is not in robust health easily falls a prey to illness, says Dr. Pheltshoe. Of all causes of ‘“‘cold,” prob- ably fatigue is one of the most common. A jaded man coming home at night from a long day’s work, a growing youth losing two hours’ sleep over evening parties two or three times a week, a young lady heav- ily “doing the season,” or young children overfed and with short allowance of sleep, are common instances of the victim of cold. Luxury is favorable to chill-taking. Very hot rooms, feather beds and soft chairs create a sensitiveness that leads to catarrh, Probably many chills are con- tracted at night or at the fag end of the day, when tired people get the equilibrium of their circulation disturbed by either overheated sitting-rooms or underheated bedrooms and beds. This is especially the case with elderly people. In such cases the mischief is not always done in- stantaneously, or in a single night. It often takes place insidiously, extending over days, or even weeks, — . Bpples for the Gomplexion. *‘The secret of a bad complexion,” said Dr. Collison, “is a bad digestion, and we generally trace that to a bad liver. One of the best remedies for a sluggish liver is cheap and pleasant. Dieting is the secret of the cure. The best liver regulator for persons of sedentary habits—and those are the ones whose complexions are muddy— is to be found in apples, eaten baked if they are not well digested when eaten raw. I attended the pupils to a weil- known boarding school, and among them was a country girl whose complexion was the envy of all her associates. I found that she was a very light eater at her meals, but she had a peculiar custom of taking a plate of apples to her room at night and eating them slowly as she studied her lessons. This was her regular practice. Some of the other girls in the institution took it up, and I know, as a result of my personal investigation, that the apple-eating girl has the best com- vlexion of any in the school.”” The Arizona Mummy. An Arizona hunter named Jonhn Me- Carty has brought into Prescott amummy that is believed to antedate the Indians and is of a decidedly different type. He | found it while hunting a' lion, which he \tld treed and brought down in the Verde Canyon. In a cliff dwelling he had founa 8 sealed chamber, 7x9 feet. Tearing it open he met a ghastly sight. It was his mummy skeleton on a soapweed mat, with the body upright and head erect, the long arms hanging straight down from the shoulders. In life he wds about 5 feet 7 inches high. 1n one hand was grasped a stone ax, in the other a bundle ot barbed, flini-beaded arrows. As the air rushed into the vault the rawhead shafts of the arrowheads and the rawhide handle of the ax crumbled to ashes, as did the mat and the mantle which covered the mummy. The fine, brown hair, about two feet in length, fell from the head. In the cave were found several earthenware bowls, a tortotse shell and about $1800 worth of best grade turquoise in the rough, just as it was taken from the ledge. The pieces ranged in size from the dimensions of a walnut to those of a hen’s ezg. ————— - How to Make an Aeolian Harp. Of very thin cedar, pine or other soft Wood make a box five or six inches deep, seven or eight inches wide and of a length justequal to the width of the window in which it is to be placed. Across the top, near each end, glue a strip of wood half an inch high and a quarter of an inch thick for bridges. Into the ends of the box insert wooden pins like those of a violin to wind the strings around—two pins in each end. Make a round hole in the middle of the top and string the box with small catgut or blue first fiddle strings. Fastening one end of each string to a metallic pio in one end of the box and carrying it over the bridges wind it round the turning pin in the opposite end of the box. The euds of the box should be 1ncreased in thickness where the wooden pins enter by a piece of mood glued upon the inside. Tune the strings in unison and place the box in the win- dow. It is better to have four strings, as described; buta harp with a single string produces exceedingly sweet notes, which vary with the force of the wind. ———————— Evil Habits of a Thrush. Recently a solicitor applied at Maryle- bone Police Court on behalf of a landlord who desired that his tenant should be compelled to cease keeping a thrush which began to screech like a steam en- gine at 3 o'clock every morning. The owner would not destroy the bird, so the neighbors threw stones at it, without, however, causing it to cease a noise that was (as alleged) intolerable and injurious to health. Mr. Plowden said a person was within his right in keeping a singing bird, and the applicant's comparison of it to a steam whistle must be taken with a large grain ot salt. The remedy was to give the tenant notice to quit.—Westmin- ster Gazette. BSssesssessS Special Saving Sale. J. and G. Meakin’s Royal Decorated knglish semi-Porcelain Dinner Sets—none better made—in either brown or green sprays of flowers—regular.y $15—0n sale this week at $10.50 for a large comple e set of 115 pieces, as follcws: 1 Soup Tureen, 1 Gravy Boat, 2 Coveredand2 Uncovered Vegetable Dishes, 2 Pickle Dishes, 1 Salad Bow, 1 Butter Dish, 4 Mest Platters, 12 each Soup, Dinner, Breakfas,, Desser, Sauce aud Butter Plates, and 12 Cups and Saucers. THAT BIG CHINA STORE A Quarter of a Block Below Shravs's. 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