The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, November 1, 1896, Page 24

24 THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUND"'AY, NOVEMBER 1. 1896. The demand for the latest designs and models increases daily, and it is quite im- possible to give to much information on such subjects, for those who cannot ?rder more than two or three gowns are quite as. anxious concerning their cut and style as the matron who expects home a score of toilets before the beginning of next montl, so I have condensed the latest information for your benefit and describe only such gowns and bodices as are worthy of your special consideration. Redfern is sending home daily costumes we all may well sigh for, as bebind their air of stern simplicity is an- indescribable chic, as difficult to copy as it istode- *scribe. For instance, a dark-blue cloth dress is traced with a design in a narrow biack silk cord, and is made with a short jacket, cut in one with epaulets, showing nar- row revers of orange-colored velvet, which turn back to reveal a pouched waistcoat of caracule; open to the bust to show a cravat of cream-colored lace. The combination is delightiul. Of a tabac- brown cloth is fashioned a second cos- tume. The bodice fastens over at one side with a narrow band of Astrachan. Gold and sil- ver and jet adorn this in front, and round the armholes and beading the fur, while the belt and collar band are of geranium rea velvet. However, Mauby’s creations, which have caused the great sensation in Paris and London, are certainly the der- nier cri. He makes the skirts of his tailor gowns of the finest black cloth separate from the silk lining, which is united at the waist only, and for the boleros he uses a fine cloth ofa brilliant red or blue shade which is covered by braiding, so applied that the color can barely show through. The result is charming and the skirt is al- ways lined (according to the latest method) with silk matching the bolero ia color. All the latest tailor sleeves are most mod- erate in size, almost but not quite like the old coat sleeve. Art Lawns. The accompanying illustrations are from Liberty’s. The standing models gown is made of a green velvet hanging from the shoulders loosely to reveal a front of a lighter green tinged with gray. It is caught just below the bust with a laced belt of green, traced with green beads, while it is smocked at the neck with another shade of green silk; the sleeves are rucked to the wrist, and frills of the velvet, lined with green soft satin, fall over the shoulders, the long yoke-like col- | lar, which is ruched with the satin, being elso embroidered with the green beads. Of creamy white Bengal satin is the even- ing gown iliustrated, with an embroidery of gold beads, amber-hued beads and pale green beads. There is a strong sug- gestion of the medieval about the shape of this, the suggestion being further carried out by the jeweled girdle and pendant ret- icule, while the sleeves, with their short puffs and long bells, reaching almost to the knees, are lined with the faintest green. A most stylish dress has been created from a novelty canvas. It is bright violet | in shade and its bodice is of a thick basket-work silk of a lighter violet color, ana is covered with little groups of roses which are on a white grourd. Itis full to the waist at the back, with a tabbed basque piped with violet velvet. Violet | velvet also comprises the waistcoat, with a chiffon and lace cravat falling to the bust, and violet frills border the front of the bodice, while straps of violet velvet buckied with jet extend from the armhole to the bust. For a Visiting Costume. An elegant visiting costume has a skirt of a violet and black silk canvas and a double-breasted bodice of violet velvet fastened by four most beautifully enam- eled gold-mounted buttons and bordered on the broad revers by light-toned mink fur. The reversare turned back so as to show & vest of exquisite point d’Angle- terre. Princess dresses are daily gaining in; favor, and many leave the great dress- makers’ hands now daily, and one of the latest is made in a very light shade of gray satin cloth, and has around the hem a very broad band of fine Irish lace inser- ‘tion, bordered on either side with a hem of black velvet, which in its turnp is edged with 2 narrow band of marten. At the neck there is a square of deep red veivet studded with jewels, and over this, which can be worn or dispensed with at will, isa bolero of novel detail, square at the front and the back, with epaulets, and trimmed with black velvet and the Irish lace to match the hem of the skirt. Charming will one of fashion’s leaders look in a gown of violet vicuna dark and rich in tone. The seams of the skirt are trimmed with four rows of black velvet baby ribbon, and the bolero is braided on either side and has a vest embroidered in green, pink, blue and purple harmoni- ously blended, and the waistcoat is made of shirred velvet in a shade of dull water green. Combinations of JMaterials. On the very best authority I can assure my readers that gowns “built of one material mainly’’ are not the dominant fashion, for I have information from Paris direct that jaunty jackets, bodices and blouses of a different fabric from the skirt are to enjoy a greatvogue. Theyare com- vosed of velvet, brocade or ot some rich silk, and, excepting when of brocade, are usually enriched with embroidery or beautiful hand braiding. I will describe some of the latest models: An especially attractive one is a short bodice of olive green. Brocade lace is jaboted down the front over a vest of canary-yellow taffeta, Encircling both neck and waist are wide satin ribbons matching the brocade. At the waist line in the back they terminate in a handsome bow. A bolero, edged with handsome mink ana lined with the taffeta, adds much to the air of chic. The sleeves fit closely to just above the elbow, and then expand into a well-proportioned puff. With this little things that must be combined if a harmonious whole is desired. Many are the women who will not grndge the best of brocade and the choicest of mink for the bodice, who-will save on the petticoat, When in reality they had far better go without one of their numerous dresses this season, and have each of their toilette perfect in even the minutest particular. Delightful indeed is ano'her model having a bolero of goiden-i:ued silk with a brownish tinting; it is exquisitely braided with a heavy silk praid composed of strands of dark and light brown silk mixed with one of gold. The under waist shows a front covered with soft, rich, creamy Jace applique, and encircling the waist is a corsage of the silk softly folded. The skirt is of a handsome brown broad- cloth, which tones in perfectly with the silk of the bolero. The sleeves are most artistically shirred at the elbow, the puff being very moderate. The cuffs are braided and unusually pretty. The petti- coat accompanying this dress Is as elabo- rate in detail as the one I have just de- scribed, but a full ruffle of yellow lace | takes the piace of the silk one, and is a decided extravagance, for only a good lace should be used, and it will prove un- substantial; a parrow frilling of the silk completes it. Neat Velvet dacket. The third creation that excited my en- thusiastic admiration was more conserva- tive, but not less worthy of considera- tion, for the smart jacket of steel-gray vel- vet is embroidered in black with rare skill and indisputable taste. Itiscutshortand can be worn either closed or open, but is most effective when open, as the gray chif- fon ruffles, edged with black lace over gray silk, make a stylish waist. The skirt of black satin cloth, when gracefully raised, reveals a petticoat of gray taffeta exactly matching the jacket. It hasthree narrow ruffles, each edged with black valenciennes lace and beaded with black velvet. The jacket is lined with black silk and the sleeves are the regular coat sleeves, with just a suspicion of fullness. They are covered with the embroidery. A | fichu. stylish high-crowned French hat of black velvet, trimmed with black ostrich plumes, gray gloves stitched with black and a tiny bunch of California violets complete a toilet that might be worn with a feeling of satisfaction by the most perfectly gowned | woman in San Francisco. These three examples from Paris direct are quite suffi- | cient to prove that in spite ot all fash- | ion’s desires issued six months ago con- | cerning the banishment of the odd bod- { | | for the next six months at all events. Bodices of Chiffon Lace. Several of the evening bodices sent home | during the past week reflect credit on the | skillful designers, whose work certainly compares favorably with any done in New York. One dainty evening bodice is of | hghtest yellow chiffon, with an abbrevi- ated bolero of pale-yellow velvet, em- | broidered in jet, jet ornaments being | erossed at the bust and brought into the waist. The basque is very full ana made of the chiffon, which has the appearance of having been sprinkled with jet. ice it stitl flourishes, and will be in vogue ! Ivory chiffon and black-thread lace enter into the composition of a bodice evolyed for a bride who fully understands how well she looks in black and white The bolero is of blackethread lace, the corselet and trimmings being of black silk guivure, studded with wonderfully real- looking emeralds, which also appear to hold in place the short, puffy sleeves of white silk, veiled with tbe lace. The skirt of white glace is draped in a truly graceful manner, with an ancient shawl of black-thread lace. Newest in Blouses. Blouses, some of the very latest, are be- ing made with the short elbow sleeves exactly such as were worn during the time of Marie Antoinette, and 1 am quite charmed with one made of a white silk, having a hair-like stripe of black. The muslin fichu which adorns it is apparently passed through small rhinestone buckles at the waist line. Three of the narrowest rows of ribbon velvet are in the frill of the The bodice has a deep corselet of black velvet, and on -the left side of the sik skirt are three bows of black velvet, which increase in size as they reach the hem. Mostof us would admire a blouse baving a vest and collar of the most deli- cate green chiffon edged with frills of creamy lace. Beneath the bust scarfs of the chiffon cross and disappear into the belt, edged with black velvet ribbon and tied ia the front. The sleeves of !hillwl! presented in 1852, has not been cor- bodice are of a shade of fancy silk, half a shade darker thian the chiffon. It is soft and rich and has agloudy pattern over it. The upstanding collar opens in front to reveal a double frill of the lace and chiffon. . In pale rose silk velvet is a bodice for a slender matron. It is set in pleats from the bust to the waist and shows & chemi- sette of the finest guipure, lined with rose- pink taffetas.. The short sleeves are of the guioure over silk. We will shortly see an- other in cut velvet; the ground 1s of whirte satin and the colors are cerise, mauvre and yellow. The back hangssac |fashion in a pleat and the front is fashioned also to set away from the figure slightly and turns back with one revers, ruched with white chiffon, while the under bodice is of white-silk embr_idered chiffon, with a broad pale-green’ velvet ribbon crossed at the back to fasten to one side in the front. HAs to the Debutante. Rather odd is a debutante’s bodice made of the new brocaded ribbons in green and white. They are stretched across the figure up to the top of the arms, and it reveals a corselet, basque and chemisette of black chiffon richly incrusted with jewels. Useful on many occasions is a bodice having a yoke of tucked black satip and a deep, quaintly shaped eollar of chine- patterned velvet with infinitesima! stripes. The sleeves are entirely made of the veivet, and are trimmed with a border of mink; it likewise edges the collar, which rests on a thick frill of lace, lace agein appearing inside the high neckband. Quite elaborate is a theater bodice of aprle-green moire, covered with a design in white. The yoke of white satin is almost concealed by an incrustation of pearl and gold beads. The bodice is made of the moire. rectly staged of late years. She declares that it was the wish of the late Alexander Dumas that the play should be mounted in the costumes of the time in which the “Dame aux Camelias” first fronted the footlights. As a result Mlle. Saylor makes her appearance in the first act with a truly marvelous pink and green poke bonnet, and Mme. Grandet is an amusing figure in organdy muslin, an antiquated shaw! and corkscrew curls. Sarah’s robe d’opera excited the en- thusiastic admiration of all the women in the audience. It was composed of pink silk gauze with festboned flounces, at- tached with pink feathers frosted with diamonds. The mantle worn with this lovely dress. was a kind of stole of yellow satin with large sleeves of zibeline. The gown worn by her in the country is delightful, being of watered velvey of the lightest tone of Nile green, shaded with silver, and over this is thrown a mantelet of pink gauze. This mantelet, I assure you, will enjoy a great vogue, as it is strikingly becoming, especially to women of Bernhardt’s style of figure. In the fourth act her ballaress of exquisite lace spangled with gold is caught np with great bunctes of white cameliias, and in the death scene a long, trailing robe of In- dia muslin is graceful and effective. Sarah never wearies of telling every one who asks that Doucet originated all her | costumes, and she is almost equally | pleased with the sensation created by the remarkable bonnets worn throughout. One is in Italian straw, trimmed with waving branches of lilac and Marechai Nie] roses, with bonnet strings of flowered taffetas made sixty years ago. Another “cabriolet” ‘in heliotrope velvet with a lopohore feather and a heliotrope bow is, strange to say, very fetching. Naturally these extraordinary bonnets, which are asserted to be reproductions from en- | gravings and portraits of that period, will | affect the fashions, and unique, odd chapeaux will be the mode. : Thelast time Mme. Bernhardt was seen on the Bois she wore a strange structure on her head, which had, apparently, seven i brims. As usual, her garments clung about her, and her gown had a funny A brilliant-hued geranium Sicilian silk is employed for yét another, the yoke being covered with an unusually good lace; over the shoulders epaulettes are formed of black satin loops; they also trim the front and compose the basque below tne waist. A morning blouse, made of green silk, bound with velvet and fastening with velvet buttons, has the fullness so ar- ranged as to open over the embroidery which is executed in gold-plaided brown silks. Round the waist the 8ilk is carried in soft folds and the sleeves are ruffled at the top. The collar is highand plaited and flares round the throat, a style becom- ing only to very long thin necks. In London tea jackets are declared to be indispensable, and one just noted at a fashionable bouse was of white satin, cov- ered with gold-spangled tuile and had at intervals large jet starsembroidered on it. The full back bodice and front were ad- mirably cut. The sleeves barely reached the waist and were rather full. s, Bernhardt’s Gowns. The immortal Sarah is assuredly a most ingenious woman, for she has suc- ceeded in convincing the general public that the “Dame aux Camelias, which little train. MARCELLA. lé\QFUl MEN'S COWES JACKETS, GLOVES JAND TIES Several smartly dressed men have re- cently ordered suits of brown tweed, run with a thread of green, which have proved highly satisfactory. Him recently an- nounced : “‘I have seen but few novelties in gloves, but I can mention one which may be used for afternoon dress. Itisof thick chev- rette, of about the consistency of a driv- ing glove, The color is pure white, and it has a certain style, but [ would really pre- fer the brown or tan. The undressed kid or Suede is as popular as ever, yet I think that there will be some change by the Horse Show. I hear that then many men are going to try to do away with even- ing dress at night sessions of that func- tion. They allege that it is ou: of place ata horse show. I disagree with them, but I think that there should be no evening performance. A man has but one dress after candlelight—I am going back to the G — ] same old theme asa musician in 2n ol!- fashioned symphony or sonata—and that there are hardly any circumstances which can change that attire. In the daysime be as horsey as you please.” s Evening dress or semi-evening drass is good form; and, more than }hnt. only form—if I may use the expressxou—ui;er candles are lit. Men of this peflod_uke to appear as if they have just arrived from the country, and disport themselves in tweeds and short coats, when tbe‘y should remember that the rules of men's dress are inexorable and that one cannot be too careful about them. Tuxedos. Dinner jackets, or Tuxedos, are so use- ful and comfortable that every man who pretends to dress owns at least one of them. They are made of a special c_lozh, which has an elastic tounch, but with a noticeable thread. 1t has a roll silk col- lar; it is short and ronnded, and has two ‘pockets as frequently as it is made with- out any, but no breast pockets are allow- able. It is correct to wear it at the club, at stag dinners and at home 1n the even- ing and to dinner at hotels or restaurants. With it are worp patent-leather pumps, black hose, a black satin tie, a black waist- coat and trousers matching the coat. Neckwear. Men cannot be too particular about their ties. They make or unmake a man, and this winter the club tie will be in the greatest vogue, for the turn-down collar and butterfly bow are things of the past. The club ties are obtainable in silks of every conceivable shade, color and pat- tern. They are about one and a half inches wide, and are arranged in a bow, with square ends. The best form are the aark ground munchunda, especially in blaes, greens and reds, with white %guées. Europe Ruled by Germans. It is a curious fact, with the excep- tion of the French royal lines (now prac- tically without a country), the Portu- guese and the Italian Princes, all of the reigning famgilies of Europe are Germans or descendants of Germans. Thg Kings of Austria, Denmark and the Princes of Art— Gowny the former Turkish vprovinces—Servia, Bulgaria, Greece and Roumania—and the Spanish princes are all German. The present royal house of England is ot Ger- man origin, and, though the King of Sweden is of French ancestry, the recent | ancestors of the family have been Ger- man. e Some Queer Superstitions. In Ireland a belt of a woman’s hair is vlaced about a child to keep harm away, and garlie, salt. bread and steak are put into the cradle of & newborn baby in Hol- land. Roumanian mothers tie red rib- bons around the ankles of their childrea to preserve them from harm, while Es thonian mothers attdch bits of asafetida to the necks of their offspring. Welsh mothers put a pair of tongs ora knife in the cradle to insure the safety of their children. The knife 1s also used for the same purpose in some parts of England. Among Vosges peasants chil- dren born at the new moon are sup- posed to have tongues better hung than others, while those born at the last quar- ter better reasoning powers. A daughter born during the waxing moon is always { precocious. At the birth' of a child in Feathered Tyrants of Wood and Sky and Stream The article on “A Butcher in Feathers,” which recently appeared in Tre CaLy, gave one view of a common Californian bird, and a view little likely to endear him to the casunal observer. The bu:cher-bird is not, in reality, the cold-blooded assassin that many writers have made him out to be. Like all other creatures of wood and sky and stream, he is absorbed in the common struggle for existence, and realiy does more good than evil in the way oi keeping down the con- suming hordes of small life that would otherwise prove a serious detriment to the farmers’ crops. The bird aerives his name, not, as is generally assumed, from a murderous and wanton disposition, but from his habit of haneing his victims upon convenient thorns, twigs and nooked branches. His food consists prin- cipally of mice, the larger insects, small snakes and slugs, and, while he does at times attack other birds, his enmity for his own kind seems largely directed to- ward the English sparrow. The butcher- bird belongs to the shrike family. He may be readily recognized by his colors, a sort of blnish-gray above, with black wings confection is worn a skirt of fine ecru- colored face cloth, which has a petticoat of green taffeta, shading from green to yellow; it is an altogether delightful pet- ticoat, and has an accordion pleated ruffle, which consumed just five yards of silk, but without that petticoat half the. style of the costume would have been lost. Observe how particular the fair Parisian is 1n relation to details, and therein lies her style and air, so fre- quently deciared to be indescribable by those not having the wit to analyze the and tail, the latter being tipped with black, and having a white paich at the base, from which he has gained his other name of ‘*white-rumped shrike.” He has a characteristic flight, near the ground, propelling himself straight forward with a rapid flapping of the wings until near . home, when he makes a sort of quitk, up- ward spring, and climbs the air to his in- tended perch. Those who know. him enly as a fierce, ruinary feathered assassin may be sur- prised to learn that in the early spring- time, when mating is in order, the butcher- bird develops musical talents of no mean sort. Perched high in some tall tree, he will sing by the hour to his ladylove, in clear musical notes, romething like the song of the catbird of the Eastern woods. John Burroughs declares that his voice is “that of a savage, strident and disagree- able,” but the genial naturalist has, like most of us, small love for the shrike, whose song has been admired of many poets. Even Thoreau, that forest seer, whose ear was so sensitive to every dis- cordant note, speaks of the shrike *“‘with heedless and unirozen melody, bringing summer back again.”” Out here in this gopher and ground- squirrel infested country, the butcher-bira is really worth protecting. He makes a meal now and then off a small bird, but oftener the denizens of the grouna are his prey. John Muir told me, some time ago, of seeing a butcher-bird fol- low a young ground - squirrel into its bole. Mr. Muir watched in amazement to see what the proceedings meant, and vresently saw the bird reappear, driving before him half a dozen young ground- squirrels, which he dispatched and then carried off one at a time. Doubtless he impaled them somewhere, to return for them when his family demanded fresh meat, for the bushes whereon he hangs his spoils are to him storehouses for future need. . . For all | e is such a fierce hunter, so that one might suppose him able wellnigh to exterminate the whole bird tribe were he £0 minded, the shrike, as compared with other biras, is comparatively rare. Al though slways keeping a sharp eye out for my little brothers of the air, I have not seen & single butcher-bird this summer. “I have often wondered,” says John Burroughs, that tireless observer of birds, ‘‘how this bird is kept in check. In-the struggle for existence it would appear to have greatly the advantage of other birds. It cannot, for instance, be beset with one- tenth of the dangers that beset the robin, and yet apparently there are a thousand Tobins to every shrike. * * * I seldom see more than two each year, and before I became an observer of birds I never saw any.” A greater enemy to the songbirds than the butcher-bird can ever be, and by far more mischievous in field and orchard, is the noisy, thievish, murderous, omni- present bluejay. If there is any bird in California that should be given no quarter this is the creature. Even his unques- tioned beauty is not sufficient to redéem his character in the eyes of any one who has ever studied. his habits. He is quar- relsome, meddlesome, a bully and a thief. He makes his way into the pouitry-yard, where he sucks the newly laid eggs, and has even been known to kill and carry off very yourg chickens. He hangs about the nests of smaller biras and destroysand devours eggs and young birds when the parents are absent. i The butcher-bird and the hawk are open devourers. When the other birds see them they run for cover and are generally able to keep out of harm's way, but they are less able toguard aga inst the sneaking depredarions of the blue jay . They some times do get the better of him, however One morning this summer I was aroused among my trees. Evidently some mighty disturbance was going on in the ornitho- logical world, Dressing hastily 1 hurried forth, fieidglass in band. A battle royal was in progress between half a dozen orioles, a bevy of Californian canaries and two or three linnets, on the one hand, and a single bluejay on the other. As might be expected, the jay was getting the worst of the encounter. Evidently he had at- tempted to despoil a nest, and the birds had made common cause against him. | The orioles will- frequently do this, not only for themselves, but for other birds. They seem to consider themselves the law- ful protectors of all small birds, as well as of their own nests. They are strong, courageous birds; as valiant as they are ‘beautiful and as chivalrous as the jay is knavish. But I confess to feeling sorry for the solitary jay on this occasion. Beaten down, his feathers broken and stained with blood and dust, he lay upon the ground watching his chance to escape. Every time be movea a small bird would rush upon him and drive him back to earth. The orioles, perched high, evi- dently considered their partof the work done and were merelv guarding, as'it were, the attack of the light artillery. Presently the jay, recovering strength, essayed a low flight to covert. Imme- diately the whole feathered vigilance committee were in pursuit and chased their victim—and this is to. me the sin- gular part of it ali—until he tad crossed the fence “into an adjoining orchard. Then they returned, trfumpbant, each going his own way. I confess it taxes my soon after sunrise by a great commotion | credulity to believe that the birds, intel- ligent as they are, recognized that fence a3 a boundary-line, yet on no other hypothesis can I account for their evident satisfaction with the work they had done and sometimes, gl- though wrongly, the “‘bee martin,” other quarrelsome and destructive He does & vast amount of mischief a the bees, and should be driven out neighborhood of hive: fellow in his way, cannot get bees, he bers of other and flycatchers are very always fighting, certain of the sive birds take the yicinily of a fiycatcher’s nest, trustin; to h1§ Pugnacity 1o keep away all danger- ous intruders. Most birds, however, dis- like constant wrangling, and avoid the great flycatcher's neighborhood, unless hunting for trouble, as even birds some- times seem to be. This love of the birds for ?eace is the secret of the English spar- Tow’'s success in getting the exclusive occupancy ‘of any locality which it in- vades. So far as strength and courage go one robin is the equal of two sparrows, but the robin gets tired of perpetual wrnng: ling und takes himself off rather than be- come a party to it. His wings are brown, with grayish margins; his tail black and shightly forked. His disposition, however, is characteristic of his tribe, and he maintains the reputation that he has won for the clan, the family name of Tyrannus, ApELINE KNaPP, is an- bird. mong of the s, but he 15'a useful destroys great num- noxious insects. The a circumstance of which smaller and more inoffen- Lower Brittafly the neighboring women take it in charge, wash it, crack its joints and rab its head with oil to solder the cranium bones. Itvis then wrapped in a light bundleand its lips are anointed with brandy to make it a full Breton. The Grecian mother before putting her child in its cradle turns three times around before the fire while singing her favorite song to ward off cvil spirits. The Turkish mother loads her child with amulets as f00n as it'is born, and a small bit of mud, steeped in hot water prepared by previous charms, is stuck on its forehead. In Spain the infant's face is swept with a pine tree bough to bring zood luck. et Opie Read's Diplomacy. When Opie Read took charge of the Little Rock Gazette many years ago he was bitterly attacked oy a rival paper in the neighboring town, Camden, Ark. He bore this abuse in silence for several weeks, but finally printed this paragraph at the head of the “editorial jottings'': «“When Jim Simmons sirst settled in Camden, vears ago, he was poor, truthful and honest. He is still voor.” The next evening a tall, gaunt stranger alighted from the evening train and ae- | costed Opie, who chanced to be at the de- pot “watchin’ of the train come in," “Do you live here?” he querieq. “I do,” was the answer. “Come and have a drink then; [ want to talk to you.” The two men adjourned to a wet-goods store near by, and aiter emptying their glasses a few times the visitor casually re- marked: “T've got to shoot a man 1n this town.” “S0?” said Read, an inflection which asked for more. “Yep—got to do it,” continued the man hunter. ‘‘Know anything about a paper here called the Gayzette?” “‘Say, let’s have another drink.” hastily interposed Opie. They did, and several other drinks followed. “Now, where’s the Gayzette office?” finally inquired the man from Camden. “I want you to go along and see thav I get fair play. All you've got to dois to point out the coyote that edits it, and stand back out of range.” Together they started uptown toward the newspaper office. The visitor never reached it; there were too many saloons along the route. And, strangest of all, Opie several. times lost his bearings and took his belligerent protege through un- necessary detours and past meore grog- shops than the Camden editor ever had seen before. An hour later the man who wanted gore was sleeping off an alcoholic trance in a garbage-box in an alley. He had lost his gun and the editor of the Gazette had secured a new paper weight. It is unnecessary to add, perhaps, that Opie was not shot that night. It isno disparagement to him, however, to admit that he was about bhalf shot.—Chicago Times-Herald. The Meaning of Dago. One day last week a man shouted “Dago” at a party of men working on the streets and immediately there was trouble, an Italian worker in the group taking the word as an epithet appiied exclusively to bimself. Thirty or forty years ago, the same cry would have provoked a meles in which Scandinavian, German and sea- men of other nationalities would have mingled. In those days “dago” was a term synonymous with the objectionable “rat,”’ or one who takes the place of a striker in work reguiring skill and expe- rience. Still, further back, in the begin- ning of the century, ‘‘dago’ meant small shopkeepers, - “humboat” people, who supply sailors with fruits, bread, butter and other articles.—Pittsburg Dispatch. NEW 7TO-DAY. and the immediate cessation of hos- tilities. | The Arkansas flycatcher, called out here the ‘‘bee bird,” inasmuch as, when he | noisy and seem to be | advantage by building in | wsessesssssesEl DONT SHIVER These chilly morn- ings and evenings. Get_one of our B & H. Oil Heaters and get it NOW Handsome, prac cal, plenty of he —easily cared for, no coal tobring in, no ashes to carry out, mo dirt, no dust. To thorpugh- ly introduce them we have made a special price _of for a lim- ited time only. The B. & H. Open Front Heater, iar- gest size, light and heat at the same time, special price $7. 'Come and sce them or send for a circular. THAT BIG CHINA STORE— 4 Quarter of a Block Below Shrevs's, WANGENHEIM, STERNHEIM & CO. 528 and 530 Market St., 27 and 29 Sutter St., BELOW MONTGOMERY. 1 —————— elVEN A1 DO You WANT IT? You can get it in the Womankind word contest. How many English words can you form from the nine let~ ters in “WoMANKIND ?" It's easy. Every contestant wins a prize. 2 Columbia Bicycles, Price $100 each. 1 Cleveland Bicycle, Price $100. 1 Gladiator Bicycle, Price §100. : Business College Scholarship, $100. 1 1 0000000000000000000UDVUVUUUUUVLUUDOUOVOUUUUUUY Kodak, $26. Silver Tea Pot, $25. Set Amer. Ency. Brittanica, $30. 1 Webster’s Inter’l Dictionary, $10. more than 800 other prizes. Con- test closes Jan. 20, 1807. Send today for free sample copy of Womankind containing full particulars. Add; ‘WOMANKIND, Springfield, Ohio. Remember Every Contestant gets a Prize. N000NONNONNONNNNNANAANANANGODOOADDOODODDOGBRAA i Tie PHILADELPHIA ELECTROLYSI5 G H70Mark CORNERJAVLOR (OVERTHEMAZEY 2 REMOVES SUPERFLUOUS HAIR BY ELEC- tricity at $1 a sitting; first sitting free; no scars left; moles, warts, atc., also T6moyeds T oy