The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, October 25, 1896, Page 22

22 THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, OCTOBER 25, 1896. DAME FASHION'S FANCGIES IN Tulle, Chiffon and Mousseline de Soie Are in High Favor How busy most of us are at this season | of the year ordering and selecting hatsand | bonnets, gowns and wraps of every de- scription, to say nothing of zhe hundreds of little things, all of which demand our | serious attention. Everywhere clothesare | under discussion, the stores are crowded and the dressmakers rushed to death, just as though we were not nearing a political crisis, and aiready we hear of numerous luncheons, teas, receptions and dinners which will be given in the near future, and ' socially it is predicted that the season will be gay enough to vlease even the most pleasure-loving of the de- butantes, and certainly those who have joined half a dozen dancing clubs will | stand a good chance of being thoroughly tired of dancing before they see another season. Iam giaa to chronicle the fact that several of our future belles have taken a leaf from the books of their New | York cousins and will not appesr in| | | silks, satins and laces, such as their mothers might wear, but will, in-| stead, wear charmingly simple frocks of chaffon, mousseline de soie, crepe lisse, tulle and the most exquisitely fine mus- lins, all of which, of course, must be made over either glace taffeta or satin, Not by any means inexpensive are such gowns, put they are very lovely and enhance the charms of Liight, fresh faces. At a card party recently I asked one of the most critical men in the City which of the young girls he considered the best dressed. He unhesitatingly | replied, “The one in pale green,” and he was perfectly correct. This pretiy belle | (she has seen more than one season) | was quite charming in a pale green or- gandie, sprayed with a small leaf in a darker shade. The full skirt had three! DAITOW IV s, edged with black Valen- | ciennes lace, and the elbow sleeves were | composed of four short frills. A deep corse- let of black satin was finished in the baék with a Jarge bow of black satin, and had long ends, reaching the hem of the skirt, and the entire frock was built overa glace taffeta silk, jast one of those little F¥rench dresses we so seldom see, as many, when trying to reproduce such models think, for instance, that satteen can take the place of silk, and as a result, leave frocks that hang wretchedly, for how can a satteen which is soft and clinging in nature, take the place of taffeta or satin? and some have ever tred rustling linings, with yet worse results, for cambrics and all the | stuffs are conspicuous on account of | the dreadful rustling sound they make— | like the crinkling noise of much brown | | are the same. | covered with a black Brussels net striped | with hues of silver sequins set closely to- paper; and now that silk is reasonable most girls can afford three or four slips at least. One fair debutante in a white chiffon frock over glace taffeta is certainly fetch- ing. It hasa corselet of roseate miroir velvet which divides in the front into two tabs fastened with little diamond buckles. A dainty ruche of the chiffon surrounds the plump throat and the tucked sleeves The chiffon emvloyed is covered with a silk pattern. This variety of chiffon is ranked among the most wel- come novelties for evening toilettes, as they are said to wear longer than the plain varieties of chiffon; they seem to be somewhat coarser in texture, so closely resembling lisse that it is almost impos- sible to distingnish the one from the other. Net is being used in great profusion for evening gowns, but the simple net (Brussels) is scorned, for nowadays it must be covered with steel, jet or jewelsin endless varieties. A black silk gown gether in rows of five at intervals of about four inches has just left the hands of a skillfal dressmaker; its bodice is swathed round the figure with a berthe of white tulle. Round the waist is a corselet of dark green satin, which terminates in a large bow in the back. It has longends. Very lovely is a creation lately received from Rouff (the celebrated couturier). Itisa reception dress composed of pale blue brocade slizhtly draped in front, and caught up at the side. The back has a large Watteau pleat and the sides opening over a brocaded petticoat are artistically adorned with a cascade of pointd’Angle- | terre. The upper portion of the bodice is f ormed with a casaquin of chinchilla, con- tinuing on to the sleeve, and white satin revers embroidered with gold and secin- tillating stones, half hidden beneath a fall of lace, complete a most satisfactory dress., From the same house comes a costume in a delightful tone of cloth, which is known as blue-hussard. The entire bodice is covered with Irish guipure, in- tersected with bands of zibeline similar to those uvon the skirt, crossing at the back. The waist and throat are finished off with straw-colored velvet, dotted with black spangles, terminating in a butterfly bow. A ball dress, also from Rouff, is a truly charming toileste. It has the effect of a rincess vest and is composed of ivory- white satin. Felix has just comnpleted a princess robe in velours craquele ecaille. Down the frontextend two stripes of galon sparkling with many-colored jet. There isa neck- band, a bow in the back and bib-like lapels in ruby velvet and guipure ficelle, en- livened with variegated trimming. The small revers and a queer little tab are of white satin covered almost with an em- broidered design carved out with gold thread and ruby-colored silk. Jet fringe completes it. = Another gown especially ncted is spoken of as a “distingue gown’’ in black moire lamee green, elaborately trimmed with . == S 7 GOWNS FOR THE SEASONS DEBUTANTES An Opera Cloak Of Richest Violet Velvet, Ermine-Lined straps, sash ends, torsaces and bow in black moire. The white satin bolero is veiled with a white net strewn with iri- descent jet spangles and crystal beads. Large and irregular tabs turn back over frills of black lsce, The white lace ap- piique jabot 1s fashioned & 1a Louis XV. With this costume is to be worn a black felt hat trimmed with black satin bows and black ostrich tips at the left side are the feathers of a green bird of paradise and a rhinestene buckle. Most of us would not object to possess- ing an elegant dinner gown in ivory pal_xlt de soie, with demi train. Panels embroid- ered in dull Indian gold beads and tinsel. Bodice of broderie Russe in pearls, gold and rich colors. “Sash in two shades of peacock green. Large epaulettes of fine Brussels applique, of which a basque flow- ing into long ends at the back is also made. On one shoulder orange roses and folizge; on the other, large ivory satin bows. The effect of this beautiful toilette is novel and most attractive. The beautiful cjoak illustrated is of vio- let velvet of a peculiarly rich shade. Itis lined with ermine throughout, the yoke 18 jeweled with amethysts, and the cape is arranged with rows of Russian sable, edged with ecrulace. The effect of the rows of beautiful fur and ecru lace is novel and most becoming to the wearer. The up- right collar is lined with ermine and pro- tects the back of the head. Altogether, it wouid be impossible to imagine a hand- somer opera cloak. N On her first appearance in Scotlana the Czarina was gowned all in white, her dress being embroidered on the cuffs and collar with a little gold braid artistically applied; her cape, of heaviest white silk, was without ornamentation. When she attended service at Craithie church with the Queen, her toilette is said to have had a considerable touch of color about it, and indeed, must have, as her dress was of dark green, her cloak plum colored and in her hat white trimmings predominated. ‘While in Paris the Czarina ordered a com- plete set of sables, which are reported to be truly magnificent. MARCELLA. RSN For Men. : Smartly dressed men have given up the Hombourg hat, for the gray with black cloth band is seen everywhere, even on the Bowery. The club tie is still in favor, but the bow seems to be the thing to wear, and it only is now worn with evening dress. Concerning the Prince of Wales, a New York correspondent states his Iatest lounge suit is of check tweed, moderately cutaway in front, with pockets. The waistcoat seven buttons, the bottom one being worn unfastened. The tailor litteratenr who bestows on us this bit of news says the Prince is very careless and that nis clothes seldom four ountside is long and has are 0 pressed. 1 have only cited + this item as g example, possibly, for middle-aged fat gentle- men with youthful aspirations, who may find a suggestion in this attire of the once leader of London fashion. [t seems the Prince bas followed the example of New- port, and has banished the high hat at midsummer garden parties. London’s season is the opposite to ours, and I think the sooner men wear sensible clothes in midsummer the better. Nearly every one ai Newport wears a lounge suit during the day, even for calling, and, unless at wed« dings, one rarely sees the top hat during the months of July and August. I hear from London direct that the Prince has again given an order to the Spitalfields weavers for brocades to be util- ized for evening waistcoats; so we wilt doubtless hear a good deal on this topic later on, as waistcoats have been under animated discussion every season lately. On several occasions while in England the Czar wore a black frock coat and vest, gray cashmere trousers and a light tie knotted sailor fashion. The leading New York tailors are said to be overstocked with rough goods in shades of brown. As a result, brown is destined to be avoided by the best-dressed men. A subscriber to Vogue writes: “Shounld a covert coat—quite short and of light.color—be worn with evening dress? If yes, I presume I am correct in suppos- ing that a silk hat can also be worn with a covert coat at any time.”’ A very short covert coat should not be worn with evening dress, especially if the tails of the coat would show below it. A covert coat can be worn over dinner jacket and semi-evening dress, and an Alpine or Hombourg hat of brown or gray, oragain, a stiff derby. But never wear a covert coat and a high hat. It is a little too much on the principle of the Broadway Rialto. If you must wear your covert coat with your evening dress—in default of another overcoat—then wear a derby or an Alpine, just as if you had on semi-even- ing dress underneath. Anything to avoid the combination of a top hat and a short covert coat. The most popular smooth cloth for frock coats this winter will be Mayall twill Black is most correct, grays not being at all suitable for afternoon functions. C. C. POORHOUSE IN A PALACE Peculiar Story of an Old-Time| Milpitas Millionaire The finest almshouse in the world is, | perhaps, the one belonging to Santa Clara | County and located at Milpitas. Indeed, | the place isa palace and was at one time | one of the most elegant residences in Cal- ifornia. That wes long ago, but not long enough | to efface the grandeur of the old manor. | The decorations on the walls and the magnificent woodwork retain their original beauty, The grand portico, with its | classic colonnade, remainsas it wasin days gone by, tobe enjoyed now by the paupers of Santa Clara County. Favored indeed are the helpless poor when they can find surcease of their miseries in the old palace near Milpitas. The story of this house is like a romance. John O'Toole is the name of the man who built the palace. He was once a million- aire, looked up to by all the country round. Now he 1s reduced to extreme poverty and likely soon to occupy, as a pauper, the house he built for himself nearly forty years azo. At present he Jives in a shed near the Twenty-one-mile House, on the Gilroy road, and earns his | living by watering horses, being glad to | get the few nickels that are thrown him for the service. In his day John O’Toole was a most exemplary man — honest, upright and liberal to a fault. He believed in the motto, *live and let live’” and practiced itas long as he was able. In the days of | his prosperity everyboay liked him. When the O'Toole family concluded in 1860 to build themselves a home they left it all to John and he discharged his duties Jike a man. In the first place he had all of the work done by the day. No con- tracts for him. Each man had his part to | do and he did it well. As a consequence ) the house cost $35,000 and the O’Tooles got ; | value for their money, for the work was well done. Although the siructure is nearly forty years old it is stiil in the best | of repsir. Nota wall has cracked nor a | floor warped, and even the paint holds its color. | The house was furnished in splendid style. Costly carpets covered the floors, and silk and velvet upholstered furniture filled the rooms. There were pictures from the brushes of the masters on the walls and the best books of the time filled uhe{ | not? | money so that they- could start life else- | present are engaged in menial occupations | absolute poverty. That he has not reached library. Musical instruments of all kinds were scattered about the house. The O'Toole family moved into the | palace looking forward to long lives of pleasure and happiness. Why should they | There was everything that could be desired—health, wealth, broad acres of | land around a magnificent home located 1 a climate like paradise. But like many other similar cases in history ‘“there was no luck about the hous2.”” The costly place was a hoodoo. Nothing went right. In a few months there were estrangements between the members of the family, so that they wounld pass each other in the halls without speak- ing. Then they began to scheme against one another and in a short time to quarrel. The quarrels were bitter and hot, and it is said that on more than one occasion blows were exchanged. One faction occu- pied one part of the houseand the rest another. As was natural under such cir- cumstances things went from bad to worse. The business was ill-managed and the wealth gradually dwindled until-there was little readv money to be had. ‘When the split-up came, after only a few vears of life in the howe of which so much was expected, there was scarcely anything to divide. John bad the most, but he acted liberally, taking the house as part of his share and giving the others where. Those of the family living at in ditferent parts of the State. For a time John occupied the palace alone and then closed it upand: iived a sort of unsettled Iife. The mansion re- mained empty until 1884 at wkich time Santa Clara County bought it and 100 acres of the land for $15,000. This sum was enough to pay John’s debts and keep him a few years, but he is now reduced to the aimshouses by this time is due to the kindness of a distant relative who permits him to water horses. At present the old mansion is one con- glomeration of incongruities. In the fres- ===, 4 PNORHOUSE IN A PALACE. coed parlor that contains a marble mantle, the cost of which was $800, there are six cheapiron cots occupied by as many wrecks of humarnity. The-coarse bedding is scat- tered around and the old fellows use the mantle as a foot rest. In front of the mantle and concealing some of its beau- ties there is a cheap iron stove, badly rusted, with a battered pipe leading toa hole that has been cut for it in the painted wall. ,The generel effect of the old mansion is that of 2 rich home captured 1 war-time and made to do service as a hospital. Everything in the house seems out of place, even the rough shoes of the inmates on the polished floors. Probably | the old fellows do not appreciate their surroundings and might feel justas com- fortable in some of the surrounding sheds. Bat as well as being a palatial alms- house in the matter of constraction, the Santa Clara institution at Milpitas is a-| model in other respects, and the inmates are, with few exceptions, a countented and happy lot. Few indeed are the working people of the world who are so well fed and cared for. There are about 150 in- mates at present, ranging in age from 65 t095. These, with one exception, are men. About forty of them occupy the old man- sion and the rest the different small build- ings around that have been added from time to time. The approach to the Almshouseis not at all suggestive of a public institution. Flower-bordered walks are on all sides and the grounds are as neat and clean as it is possible for them to be. The trees in front of the hause have grown very tall since the days when the O'Tooles lived there, but otherwise it looks much as it did when in its glory. Perhaps the old wrecks of humanity lounging around do not add any to the beatty of the grounds, but they are com- fortable and prolonging their lives, which is the purpose of the institution. Little work is required of the inmates. All they have to do is to sit in the sun and grow old. And they can take their own time about doing it. Some of the inmates have been in the institution ever since it startea, and with the fine climate and the ‘good living they get they may attain greatages. In fact, they are said to be in better health now than when they entered. Among these inmates there are of course many odd characters. Most of them bave been wealthy at one time or another and look upon their present home as their right in more ways than one. Few of them seem to think that they are public charges, Some of the cases are sad, some pathetic and a number ludicrous. Taere is only one woman on the place and she is there with her husband, Antone de Costa. They are ¥rench and can scarcely speak a word of English, but they are as happy as can be. The man is oyer 80 and they act like two doves in their devotion to each other. They have hada hard time all their lives and have at last realized what 1s to them a pleasant home in the Santa Clara County Almshouse. The oldest men on the piace are Mexi- cans and they are exceedingly well con- tented. Their ages are not known, but the chances are that most of them are over a hundred. Noneof them bave much to say, but they always get their meals at the regular time. Some of the inmates are slightly infirm mentally and have queer ideas. Some want medicine all the time and of course they get it, but not always what they think they are getting. A number in the insti- tution have small pensions and as regu- larly as itarrives they get né of it as fast as possible 1n the manner dear to them- selves. Some of the inmates expect for- tunes to arrive almost any day and look forward to the time when they will be able to shake the dust of the poorhouse from their feet and go out in the world and fizht some of its hardest battles. Many ofthose most hopeful already have one foot in the grave, but stand up and say “There is life in the old dog yet.’ One feature of the Santa Clara Alms- house is the fact that all tramps who come by and ask for food are given 1t. It makes no difference how oiten they call they are provided with the same as the inmates get. The strange thing is that few of them come more than the second time, although there are a number who will call once a month regularly. Within the last four years of free trade there have beer about 30.000 meals issued to hungry wan- derers. The number varies from 300 to 900 amonth. An Improved Respirator. A vaiuable prize has recently been awarded by the French ‘Society for the Prevention of Accidents in Industrial Parsuits,” for the best form of respirator produced, to Dr. Detourbe, whose design has now been adopted in quite a number of the most important workshops in North- ern France. The arrangement is a mask shaped to fit the lower half of the face, bnt not to interfere with the wearer’s vision; a chamber in the midale, which projects a slight distance from the rest of the mask, contains a laver of asbestos and also one of cotton or wool, arranged between small plates of aluminnm gauze. The mask is of copper, and & strip of elastic felt runs around the inner sur- face near the edge, thus insuring the necessary contact all around, and the device is held on with lighit elastic bands encircling the head, one being on a level with tbe forehead and the otherabout opposite the lower lip. The onfice 15 of such a size, and the lining of the chamber 80 loosely packed, that the wearer of the appliance is enabled not only to breathe, but to talk without difficulty, these two points constituting the great advantages of the invention. ————————— Millions of Petrified Fish. For a score of years, it is said, geologists have known of the existence of millions of immense beds of shale in Wyoming which oceasionally yielded fine specimens of fossil fishes, but it is only recentiy that similar beds have been discovered in Colorado. These beds of petrified fish, containing millions upon millivns of individual specimens, cover hundreds of square miles in the north- western part of the State. They extend a distance of 100 miles in the direction of Green River and ‘“shelve out” for 100 miles more toward the interior of the State. In some places these beds—almost a.solid mass of perfectly fossilized fish— are from 150 to 200 feet in thickness. One of the greatest puzzles regarding the find is the fact that they lie about 8000 feet above the sea level. Practical Milllnery School Now open to pupiis. Millinery practically and thoroughly taught. Ladies prepared for business. Terms moderate. 22}4Geary,r.46.* ANCIENT MILL AT NILES Monument of the Goming of the Yankee - History does not record the date of the construction of the first flour mill within the borders of California, but it is very likely that the buiiding is still standing in a good state ot preservation. Atany rate the structure isa most interesting one and 1s known to have been putup long before the Americans came to the State. The structure referred to is located just to the sonth of the railroad track and within the corporate limits of Niles. It is a quaint old adobe, but stands so close to a large mill that was put up in 1860 that it is almost hidden from sight. The larger building, although constructed nearly forty years ago, is referred to as the *‘new miil” by the people living in the vicinity. Itis kvown that the old mill was built OLDEST MILL IN CALIFORNIA. by Don Jesus Vallejo, brother of General Vallejo, but the exact date can only be surmised. He even Jost track of it him- sell, but the mill was running several years before he moved into it as his home. That was about 1835, us near as can be as- certained. Victor W. Nuttman, the oldest resident in Niles, says that when he moved to that locality in 1852 the mill was an old struc- ture and that Don Vallejo told him it was built over twenty years. This will place the date close to 1830, although it is not improbable that it was built before this. However, this is as close as can-be ob- tained, and is before the construction of any other building of the kind of which there is any record. The old mill is at present occupied as a residence by Don Manuel, a Spaniard, and has been changed very little since thedays when it ground wheat for all the country round. In tact, one might say that it ground for all the State. It surely ground for the soldiers at the Presidio of Sonoma, and there is no doubt but that it did for other places. The building is about 30 feet wide and 100 feet long. One end was built to be used as a residence and the other as a mill. This part is two stories high and the framework of the old millstones is atill in place. The mill was operated by water- power and the old run and part of the wheel is still where it was placed over sixty years ago. . The interior of the part that is used by Days Before the Manuel is still a typical Spanish home. The ceilings are of heavy beams and the walls of the old-style cement, so quaint and picturesque. Big fireplaces are in most of the rooms. The floors are of| heavy boards, most likely cut by hand be- fore the days of sawmills. The outside of the building is as picturesque as possible. The walls are overgrown with vines and the roof has taken on a soft tone from a heavy growth of moss. In spite of its age the walls of the build- ing are-in perfect condition and should stand for ages. All things considered, the old mill is as interesting a pile as can be found in the State. It is, of course, not as historical as many other structures, but it takes one back to a time when this country was a wilderness and the men who after~ ward made it what it is were children, — Bicycle for Speed and Power. John W. Mclntire of Chicago, Ill., ha been.granted patents on a bicycle intended to develop great speed and power. The construction isnew and novel to say the | least. s The frame of this machine is almost ex- actly like those in géneral use. The front UPERFLUOUSI —HAIR— NEW TO-DAY. wheel, butit is in the rear wheel that all of the power is developed. Instead of being journaled to an axle and hub the rear wheel is of the friction type. The outer tire is of the usual kind, but within it there is a band to act as a friction surface. There are several gunide wheels that hold it in position. The power in this machine is generated as in ordinary wheels and is communi- cated to a friction wheel by a chain and sprocket. This wheel travels on the fric- tion band within the hind wheel. The idea is that the friction wheel can be made to run four or five revolutions to one of the sprocket wheel. The friction wheel then makes two revolutions to one of the driving wheel and gives it the same power as itself. By placing the force near the outside of the wheel there 1s a gain of considerable power that is lost in the wheels of ordinary construction. This ‘wheel should be a good hill-climber even if it is nothing else. NEW TO-DAY. Bmesesesessss Special Saving Sale. Pudding Dishes—Heavily nickel-plated on hard meta', with removable porce~ lain-lined dish for serving direct from oven. also usetul for baking many othar things. The regular prices are $1.50 and $2.00. On Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday il we will sell the 3- vint sizs at $1. R and the 4-pint at McKinley and Bryan Tumblers—Fine, thin glass with the picture of your favorite candidate on the side, reduced to 5 cents each., Coms before they are all gone. THAT BIG CHINA STORE— 4 Quarter of a Block: Below Shrevs'r, WANGENHEIM, STERNHEIM & CO. 528 and 530 Market St., 27 and 29 Sutter St., BELOW MONTGOMERTY. ‘makes the whole fam- ily happy. Send five two-cent stamps for ‘WOMANKIND three months and receive FREE the Woman- kind Cook Book, filled with tested recipes DESTROYED PERMANENTL' oo _— My ice has been nin city, and have not had a single Call and we'll convince you. REDUCED RATES Mrs. Nettie Harrison America’s Beauty Doctor 40 and 42 Geary St., _ San Francisco in this ure as yet. of practical -housekeepers. You'll like the paper. It's able, bright and clean. Address, WOMANKIND, Springfield, Ohio. ELELTROLYSIS @ 1170 MarkeT AT, C{ORNERTAYLDR e Maze) Room 26 59 S R“DVB SUPERFLUOUS HATR BY ELEC- tricity at §1 a sitting; first sitting free; scarsleft; moles, warts, etc,, also u‘mommn: