The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, October 11, 1896, Page 22

22 THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, OCTOBER 11, 1896. The Directoire costume js an excellaml Very chic is a costume worn by the model carried out in hopsack. The'skirt | wheelwo{nafl. the jacket of wmf:h isofa is the new shape, with but little fullness novel variety of corduroy, very light ana at the back of the waist. The fastening of | porous, and: the skirt is of a serge known the bodice from the right shoulder is |as ‘athletic serpe.” It ie warranted to necessary, one revers edged with the same | stand the hardest ot wear. The tout en- embroidered braid which appears in the ; semble commends itself. skirt. Two large and handsome mosaic ; The seated figure is garbed in nhm.zd- buttons look well. A deep belt and a | some visiting toilette composed of a rich small basque “eased” on to theedge of | material of a silky texture. The yoke is the bodice complete it, and the sieeves | of guipure lace gracefully arranged and should be less bouffant than those illus- | the epaulettes are very original. trated. They are finished with epaulettes. An unusually good iailor costume, lately sent home, is made of a fine soft coating, smoky gray in color. The vest and stiffly | flaring little epanlettes are of white broad- cloth, with appliques of the gray. The skirt is absolutely plain and most beauti- fully cut and finished. ‘Che discovery that the best hanging skirts are those made over a stiff silk lining, but not sewed into the seams, is illustrated in this garment, and many who should be authorities on this subject assert that two materials of different substances rarely hang well when Everybody Can Have a Tailor-Made Those who have but a limited allowance j and of all difficult fashions it requires the on which to dress should remember tiat a | greatest skill to cut and fit properly. Con- tailor suit is not an impossility, for the | cerning such a costume a Vogue corre- | skirt can be made at home and by having J spondent writes: it pressed by a tailor the resuit should be | * “Very chic was a cloth princess gown. ;obd, but they must give the jacket to a | The princess model is in great favor it first-class man, and if the cloth is proverly | appears, and to be worn whenever it sponged there is no reason why a stylish | proves at all becoming. The material was gown should not be evolved. | 2 soft woolen canvas cloth in a warm, For reception and house gowns the |rich, aster purple, with golden moons princess are®among the most fashionable | raised up on coarse black threads, the size of a ten-cent piece, and widely scattered apart. The effect was charming. The front dart seam extended down the skirt almost to the knee, and had been opened to introduce a white satin band. Purple silk frogs- laid on quite close together covered this seam. On the lower part of the side-gore seams were short openings, underlaid also with white satin, and trimmed oyer with frogs of silk cord. The neck of bodice was en carre, with a A Directoire Costume and a Visiting Toilette very logical conclusion, but it has taken a great many years to arrive at it. Recently noted and favorably com- mented on was a creation of tabac-tinted cloth. The skirt was full as usual, but cut in quite a new way, with broad box pleats. The short open jacket revealed a blouse of an odd spotted silk, artistically braided in black, the cuffs and roll collar being adorned in a like manner. With this was worn a brown felt hat with a moderately high crown. Two black quills were at the sewed together, and this seems to be a ' side. Costume finely plissed white satin chemisette at tached to a neck-band of purple velvet and white satin. The square neck was finished off- with folds of white satin, and a soutache of purple silk braid. The puff of the cloth sleeves was more loosely draped than a Louis Quinze, the lower arm heing closely fitted only to elbow ora trifle above. Double rows of purple frog trimming was used to encircle the lower arms very effectively. Velvet to Be Used Extensively as Trimming Velvet is to be used extensively as a|As there was an. elasticity in the trimming on many fine lady’s cloths; for | material itself, it was better adapted instance, one of dahlia cloth with velvet {to an inexvensive percaline lining, to match has been much admired, and | whereas when material is soft, a guite charming was a gown lately seen iu | silk one is quite indispensable if one | of yellow lace above. New York “built of warm chestnut-brown | wishes to have a skirt hang well. There cloths, evenly checked with black. The | was a nine-inch hair-cloth facing with an skirt, new model, had a much less flarin utside covering of brown mobair. This appearance, and when worn hung quite | gown had a round, bias bodice, with a high flat in front and at the sides. On the | belt of plain dark brown velvet. The seams of the front gore bl zlossy braid | fronts were laid in folds, while the back was laid on, artistically, in side panels, | was seamless, and the fastening of the leaving the rest of the skirt entirely plain. ' beit was invisible at the left side. Cloth sleeves ontlining the arm, with a jaunty epaulette of velvet, heavily trimmed with the same black braid as on panels. A brown velvet choker with loops, and a ruff Frills of the same lace at the wrists.” The loose effect in front, with the full- ness hanging a little over the belt, is to continue in fashion, but will be becoming to women only with slight figures, and | Worth used to carefully avoid the use of any but small buttons on his conceptions for stout women, declaring that they had an enlarging effect, and if you experiment you will discover that the gifted E nglish- man was perfectly correct, but few of my readers could guess what the new fash- ionable buttons are. Nothing less than wrought iron is the material of which they are composed. This sounds heavy and unsuitable, but in reality the buttons are extremely light, ornamental and pretty They are used on coats and jackets, and are for the moment almost the only but- tons seen, except the very large bone and pearl onas. Effective Buttons and Some Fine New Silks Tartan of a brownish hue crossed wit own is built over a good quality of brown fine lines of green, turquoise blue an iace taffeta. crimson combines perfectly in an im-| Wonderfully attractive is a youthful ported dress with a brown canvas. The | bride in her going-away gown of cedar- skirt is of the canvas, across which is in- | brown cloth. The skirt is rather narrow troduced with odd effect an eight-inch | (that is, according to present ideas), and band of the tartan; the bolerois of the | is trimmed with seven rows of cloth strap- | The little coat same with a deep folded sash of black | ping set closely together. satin. One button holds the bolero in | had the same strappines on the seams and place. The sleeves have the smallest of | opened to show a vest of a new shade of puffs. A smart cravat of creamy lace has | green, most beautifully embroidered in and above the stock of | shaded brown silks. The lining was of stiff long ends, The | silk which matched the vest in hue. black satin the lace again is visible. Unusually magnificent are many of the new silks. One noteworthy novelty dis- plays a bold chine floral design, in which is a white brocaded pattern in velours cisele, outlined throughout with colored paillettes “shaped like the minute petals of the elder flower,” so that they have the appearance of gems. These are to be had in all colors, and, as can be easily im- agined, are of unusnal beauty. They will be used for dress fronts and court trains. A similar silk has a white silk brocade and and bright-colored on a cream surface, while in design the brocade is arabesque. Some of the least costly ot these have chine grounds with handsome. brocades in self-coloring. Many grounds are of poult de soie, some of satin. All designs remind one of the time of Louis XVIand XVII. Oiten the grounds are white; quite as frequently pink or gold; however, no matter what their coloring, all show great beauty in the flowers and fine weaving in no velvet, the chine flowers being large | the brocade. Becoming Gowns for Beautiful Grandmothers A beautiful grandmother here, who has | leaves of the roses. The slippers are to the most wonderful snowy. hair, recently | be of the brocade, a rose forming the toe ordered a princess dress which cannot fail | of each. to be lovely, as the pale shade of maanve 1 am always glad to see beautiful grand- satin is richly embroidered with long | mothers in such becoming tcilettes, and stemmed pink roses with their leaves. | many could be cqually lovely who insist | Down the front will be introduced plain | on always appearing in somber grays and pinkish mauvesatin, which will be com- | mixtures of black and white, when=green, pleteiy veiled with costly lace. The neck | blue, pink or mauve creations would is to be cut square, back and front fin- | transform them, and nothing can be more ished with lace applique. The lining is of | charming than a perfectly costumed old green exactly matching the color of the | lady who looks as though she had stepped from one of the wonderful paintings of long ago. But, no, there is no time for sentimentality, so to return to practical affairs. All the latest evening gowns are to be long, and I may say the hanasomer the material the longer the train, and the fronts of all princess dresses must be very elaborate, but the backs are to be abso- lutely plain, hence the fit must needs be perfect. Lovely is an evening gown owned by one pretty belle, but I can only tell you that it is of soft rose-pink tulle over silk of the same tone, aund the bodice is arranged as a zouave jacket of rich jeweled em- broidery trimmed with deep ecru lace of exquisite fineness, opening from the cor- sage of tulle. @ The broad corselet will be in great vogue all winter. One Paris frock just unpacked has a corselet that reaches to the bust line, and we now know positively that blouses will continue in style, as in one of the most elaborate trousseaux just com- pleted for a great belle in New York are several direct from Paris, and one “beanty blouse’” you can ail appreciate comes from the same capital. It is of mauve taffeta covered with pleated mousseline de soie, with a Brussels lace berthe; tight sleeves of the lace fall over the wrists and double-kilted frills of the mousseline de soie are at the top; mauve satin ribbons encircle the waist. A large proportion of the French models havé quite tight sleeves, most of them being of lace, trans- parent to the wrist, while the armholes are usually finished with kilted frills of chiffon, lace or ribvon. Quite fetching is a theater bodice of ! black mousseline de soie, embroidered with fleur de lis, in a shade of yellow over one of the new shades of green silk, trimmed with frills of black mousseline de soie, which partially veils the deep empire waistband of green silk. An effort is being m’de to render the backs of the bodices as’ pretty and fully trimmed as the fronts, and it is meeting with great success. Miroir velvet printed in white, as though the color had been expunged, is lovely in the deep light pinks, and there is a liberal range of light striped and dark striped velvets of two shades watered on THE WAR OF THE MILLINER AND THE MANAGER | N 2 N e She eRlers “Ye gréatehat™] . THE DETACHABLE HAT THAT MAY SOLVE A VEXED PROBLEM. The new woman has met her Waterloo and has been conquered again by the ty- rant man. He used to take off his hat to her. Now he merely points- to it, but he insists that she shall remove hers out of respect to him. These be wonderful days, when women take off their hats to the gentlemen! In restaurants there are nice little signs telling gentlemen to remove their hats. There are many more which would look as well. They might request gentlemen not to put their feet on the table or mildly #ving them not to pour soup into their hats. Boon there will be companion mot- toes setting forth that ladies, too, must doff their bonnets. Why, yes, don’t you know, the theaters send round pleasant little hints now. The fiat has gone forth and the big picture-hot is doomed. That is in theory. Pretty things die hard. And this hat question gets quite complicated when you unfold it and spread it out. We will admit it is a case of selfishness on both sides. The manager needn’t try to pose as a philanthropist, for the ladies won’t let him. They remember how he smiled at skyscrapers and thought them lovely until inconsiderate peovle be- gan to bother him, just because they couldn’t see. The idea! Some folks never are satisfied! Why don’t all those people who can’t see over the hats take front seats? Do they want the ladies to look less lovely to oblige them? Some women, who are decidedly plain bareheaded, be- come beauties in the shade of a black- velvet hat, with a mass of quivering plumes. Are they to lose the opportunity 10 look charming simply because some man wants to see the stage? Let him go to the balcony, or to the gallery, 1f need be. The manager declares it is a clear case of selfishness and vanity on the ladies’ part. They want to look pretty and to wear hats which show how much they cost, and they ‘‘don’t care’’ who is trou- bled by them. Of course not. The milliners have various ideas on the subject. There is one on Kearny street who fears the big hat is doomed in San Frapcisco, because if the theaters taboo them there will be no place to wear them. The wind prevents them from being very popular for street wear. She says the effect will be felt clear down on the os- trich farms, where .the birds will wear their tails (have ostriches tails?) at half- mast, in mourning for their lost glory. Does the manager realize the breadth of his path of destruction? ‘Will he wantonlv wound the tender feelings of those noble birds and drive them to a diet of hatpins and death? If the wide brims are to go where can the feathers be piledon? Andif there is to be no place for plumes how are we to soothe the pride of the ostrich? Alas, thecrueity of man! Then there will be the sighs and groans of the ribbon and flower makers to haunt his dreams, unless we can put the blame on the next President. A whole multitnde must be thrown out of work and the ostrich must become extinct, so that some baldheaded man may see the | chorus girls dance. A pretty young milliner on Market street just laughs and goes on piling plumes on a drum-major bat. Bhe says the theaters czn’t do a thing but grumble, and women will wear what they please. All the hats are large this season, she says, and she hands out great masses of velvet and ribbons and feathers and puts on hat after hat to show how a large one sets off a round face. She isa picture in a frame of deep velvet with feathers curling all rount. Theplumes curl like Medusa snakes as she nods emphatically and tells bhqw few women are charming in small hats. There is nothing, she insists, more magical than a big hat and no place where it is so effective as in the soft light of a theater. She says “‘Oh, pshaw!’ when told what the other milliner feared, and she will not pity the ostriches at all, be cause women will never be silly enough to put their heads in the sand or their lights under a bushel. An effort was made the other day to find a compromise hat, which might be pretty and yet allow some of the landscape to appear around the corners. It was no easy job. In fact, it was given up. If there was At Last My Lady Takes Off Her Big Hat Indoors---Will It Crush an Industry ? WHO TAKES CARE OF THE HAT? Invention of a San Francisco Maiden---A Detachable Crown That May Solve the Problem and Avert a Terrible War any trimming at all, or any brim, it was the same obstructionist, and when the feathers were put straight up to be out, of the way the ladies were horrified, and somehow it didn’t look just right. Itisa bonnet ora bare head, or else it is a big hat. There is no compromise. Right here the woman with a cameo face, who can wear one rose and a bit of ace for a bounnet, may have a few mo- ents to give thanks. She is' not in this ickle at all. *Oh, yes,” complained one society girl, ‘“it is all very fine if one has a small face to go with a small hat, or a lot of hair to look nice without one, but just see here, I can’t wear anything smaller than this, and I'll stay home before I'll go like a guy.” There is a fortune 1n store for the inven- torof a transformation hat. Something like those cakepans which come to pieces, youknow. It must be a wide one with agreat curling brim and feathers like tropical undergrowth. Thelady will come into the theater, a vision, a poem, a pas- tel, and when the curtain goes up she will touch a spring and presto!—off will come the brim and the feathers and the lady will have ona tiny capote. Won't that be lovely! And then the horrid veople who grumble will have nothing to say. Since it seems to be the opinion of the majority that the big hat must not be worn during the piay, and still the ladies will not discard the wide brim, the burden is shifted to the shouldersof the man- agers. When she takes off her $50 hat,what are you going to do with it, Mr. Manager? 1s she to stuff it unaer the chair? It will not go. Besides she would rather sit under the chair herself and give the seat to the hat. You do not know how dear to her heart is the hat with the feathers. You might putasort of rack over the chair—no, some confounded growler would find it in the way. Would you have her hold it in her 1ap? Then what will become of, it when the ‘‘gentlemen” go out fora clove? This is the place for an interiude. This clove—it shows how much more consider- ate women are than men. Men take off their hats, but between acts they rush out for cloves. Women sit quietly through the play, but they wear hats. Merely two little idiosyncrasies, one to offset the other, and one would think to find a mu- tual forbearance. But you donot. Men grumble. Women knowhow precious the clove is to the masculine heart, and they smile politely when for the seventh time their dainty skirts are scraped by many feet scrambling for the aisle in a hursy for fear the clove may become weary and 20 home. Beware! Each smiling woman will be- come as a lioness defending her young when a man scrambles over her hat. It will never do, Mr. Manager. Could you even things by sending around a second little notice requesting the gentlemen to bring the clove with them! Ah, no! You would not wish to throw the whole cosmos out of joint. Men must goout for a clove. They have done it from beginning of time and their rights must be respected. How about the right to wear h—well never mind, Mr. Manager, but you've got to find some place for those big hats. It must be a safe place, too, where they will not be crushed. You have a heavy re- sponsibility there. Think of 600 hats, each covering an area of three square feet. You must build a hatroom and check the things. ~Nor is that all. These 600 women are not going to elbow and crowd and wait to claim their head gear. You must provide dainty maidens—many of them—to pass the hats during the last act, and you must evolve a system by which every hat gets to its fair owner and to no other person, This may seem a deal of bother in order that some people may see what they have paid to see, but you'll have the conscious- ness of victory and you’ll be happy, per- haps, in spite of all the sorrowful birds and the disconsolate silkworms you have thrownout of a job. There’s one woman who doesn't care whether styles change or not, and to whom the manager’s wishes are but wind. She is the tailor-made girl, who wears a round hat over smooth, shining, parted hair which never seems mussed. She goes to the theater to see the play, and she never notices whether or not there are eves on ber hat. If said hat bothers a man he has only to say so, and the hat is under the chair. She's a queer girl. She thinks all of wus go there to watch the stage. When the wrongs of the sex are laid before her she opens her eyes and says—she’s horridiy blunt: *“Well, one woman pays for one seat, doesn’t she? Bhe has no right to a whole row.” It is explained to this im- possible young person how much more becoming a large hat is and what a pic- ture it makes, but she only says: “Oh, well, if you are on exhibition—but then you would better nire a hall.” Ii is not necessary to talk further with this person. She has no sense of the beaun- tiful. She doesn’t think women were made, like the flowers of the conservatory, to be beautiful, and to be gazed on for their beauty. Perhapsshe works. Maybe she reads like a man. Anyway she says she’s no butterfly, and no-wax doll, and while she thinks the pattern hats are pretty things, you couldn’t hire“her to carry one around on her head. 8o, yon see her opinion isn’t worth hav- ing. She has no sympathy for the aown-trod- den ostrich, and no feeling for the pov- erty-stricken silkworm. She has even been suspected of an idea that women could do without hats and men without cloves. Pass her by. Brave indeed is the manager to face the prospect of souls lost through envy; of the hatred of women; of the sorrows of pirds and worms; of the care of priceless headgear, and the lasting enmity of the whole race of milliners. In yielding thus in one instance the feminine portion of the community has done for itself. It will soon be restricted 0 one seat per head in a car and one-half the sidewalk. It will be expected to know what it wants in a store and to get off a car face forward. The only revenge pos- sible is to contract the habit of going out for a clove and stepping on as many toes as possible. GRACE ALLEN. Bee FASHIONS FOR GENTLEMEN Smart men are carefully avoiding bright blues, greens and reds just now. They were worn only for a very short time last winter by correctly garbed men, and this winter sober hues will prevail. A few men in Newport have witfin the past few weeks blossomed out in a sort of pea jacket, or a species of reefer or double- breasted sack of blue. However, it is not yet possible to say whether it will obtain this winter. “Him’’ writes: I also see that the desire for mufti continues to such an extent that the lounge coat is be- coming vastly popular in England, and a com- promise is being effected by the introduction of jackets with the lower corners cut square. Itseems also that in some quarters pumps have been supersedea for evening wear by low patent-leather shoes. Russet boots, laced, have also given way to russet boots, buttoned, and tall hats nave been introauced much higher and a great deal more belled in the crown. All these innovations have nat reached us. A very excellent hint given is that all white waistcoats are not starched, only ironea. There is & prophecy that the club tie will be apandoned this season, but I fear that the prophet will have miscalculated his facts. I, for one, would be sorry to see it go, slthough in winter I believe that for afternoon wear the Ascot or the four-in-hana is decidedly smarter, unless you cling to the all- around turndown collar—a bit of neckwear which, in my opinion, belongs entirely to mufti. “‘Quite absurd 1s it for men to affect colored or tinted note paper,” declares an Eastern authority, “They should use only the very bes: quality of Irish linen, and those possessing a crest and mott should have it on their paper, but not their coat-of-arms.”’ A properly cut and mounted seal ring is appropriate for a man, but not so are dia- mond, turquoise, ete., rings. Quite a novelty is the new “Golf”’ cigar- lighter, consisting of a sold silver goli- ball mounted on an ebony stand. It will be highly appreciated by smokers, C.C. the stripes. These are intended for waist- coasts and blouses. Those with a design of tiny flowers ali over them are espe- cially attractive. Again black stripes are noted on white grounds, and black satin stripes on moires, many of which are watered after the semblance of cork, others like a stalactite, while others ap~ pear to pe covered with tangled ribbon. The stripes may be had in all widths, and colored ¥atin stripes appear alike on black and white silks. Black is again to be very fashionable, but white is preferred for evening gowns, and numberless beautiful brocades have been placed on the market. ————— The summaries of statistics of Congre- gational churches in the United States show that there are 5138 churches and 541,725 members. wssSsesssessal Special Saving Sale. SALT PEPPER SHAKERS. Rich cut glass, with heavy sil= ver-plated tops 3 fine shapes, at 20c_each. Cut Mustard Pots to match at 40c. We also place on sale those popular Ger- man stone Cov- ered Beer Mugs used so much for dining-room ornaments, at 60c each. Also some without covers at 85c. THAT BIG CHINA STORE— A Quarter of a Blook Below Shravs's, WANGENHEIM, STERNHEIM & CO. 528 and 530 Market St., 27 and 29 Sutter St., BELOW MONTGOMERY. $7 =4 ROOMS CONSISTING OF FURNITURE PARLOR,BEDROOM, DINING-ROOM, KITCHEN EASY PAYMENTS. Tapestry Brussels, per yard 0il Cloth, per yard. Matting, per yard .. Solid Oak Bed Suit, 7 pieces .. Solid Oak Folding Bed, with Mirror T. BRILLIANT, 410 POST ST.,above Powell OPEN EVENINGS Four-Room Catalogues Mailed Free. (37 Free Packing and Delivery aaross the Baga 50 Cents makes the whole fam- ily happy. Send five two-cent stamps for ‘WOMANKIND three months and receive FREE the Woman- kind Cook Book, filled. with tested recipes of practical housekeepers. You'll like the paper. It's 2ble, bright and clean. Address, WOMANKIND, MENTION THIS PAPER. ELELTROLYSIS @ 1}I70MARKET ST, CORNER TAYLOR Overtie Maze) foom 28 EMOVES SUPERFLUOUS HA: ; Riiawatiis sitting; et stiting Weis; scarsleft; moles, Warts, e'c., also Temoved,