The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, October 4, 1896, Page 22

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, OCTOBER 4, 1896. Princess Walking Costurmne Egmmm_v.uummnxuj The artist has reproduced for us two charming walking gowns suitable for the | season. The left-hand figure isa becom- | ing form of princess gown fashioned ina | fine gray faced cloth, with lapels and miniature panels of white fastened with small gilt buttons. Frilled chiffon bor- ders the neck and the grass lawn fichu. The second costume is of coarse canvas in a light shade of gendarme blue, with a frilled vest and strappings of black satin, finished with paste buckles. The steeves of this gown are of pariicularly original | design, while the neck has alternately ruffles of black satin and cream-colored embroidered lisse. Almost equally interesting are the mod- els for blouse suitable either for afternoon or theater wear. One boasts a particu- larly original development of the ruched chiffon sleeve, with insertions of gold- detailed embroidery and a triple frill, in place of the usual shoulder puff. A fichu- like drapery is drawn up from the side seams to the left shoulder and there caught with a paste buckle. Black and white striped silk forms the material for the second design, of which the V-shaped neck is bordered by three rows of embroidered lisse, the same lisse forming a full double frill at the elbow. No. 3 is noticeable for a Zouave-like yoke of sequin-embroidered grass lawn, the same embroidery appearing on the chiffon sleeves. Brocade forms the lower part of the bodioe and the smart shoulder knots. Some lovely and very smart cloth gowns will soon be sent home by an excellent tailor. One, eonsisting of & coat and skirt, is composed of the finest purple beaver eloth, the collar being faced and the cuffs | trimmed with arich dahlia-colored velvet. | Buch @ combination is indeed daring, but reallv most effective. A chic row of tiny black cords and barrels finishes the loose- fitting fronts and the sleeves as well. Mink borders the epaulettes and collar, and also extends down the fronis. The lining is & shot-dahlia taffeta, A great black velvet picture hat with seven beau- | tiful ostrich plumes completes a fetching | toilette—and make a mental note of the fact that all such chapeaux must have at | least seven plumes of the choicest descrip- | tion. More may be worn, if you are tall enough, but not less, even if you are only five feet in height, for this is one of fashion’s imperative mandates. There is a revival in the fancy for serge in London, Paris and New York, so we bodice and tablier of gathered Valen- ciennes lace over pale blue. A small white straw hat covered with roses and leaves placed among the white tulle was effective. The tulle also fell like a scarf round her shoulders. consist of silk and woolen mixtures, the designs being after the style of velours cisele, viz.: uncut velvet, with the loops left. Generally these are bold 1n de- sign and a combination of two shades, one helping to develop the other. In fancy reps is shown the basket weave in both large and small patterns, and in all such fabrics cords and shots prevail. Several of the great French dressmakers are also employing Scotch tweeds, which show every variety of design, and many diag- onal tweeds, having broad borders of a distinct color and a shawl fringe, are con- siaered chic, as the gowns evolved from may shortly expect to see a very stylish bride arrayed in one of the most exquis- itely fine navy blue serges ever made with reveres faced with white moire, edged by s fine hair-like cord of mixed dark blue and siiver. The coat is lined with the white moire, but the skirt has a sensible lining of blue taffeta. Such a costume would be excellent for a matron if black moire were used instead of the white. Smart is also & costume, just completed, of a black cloth, which has a very narrow white stripe and fixings of white velvet. The short, neat, little basque buttons up (slantingly) the left side with eighteen small tailor-buttons. A iedium sized black velvet hat with a touch of white velvet and nodding plumes is in keeping. A lovely dark-eyed schoolgirl who will make her debut ere long is a fetching picture in a costume of brown heather mixture tweed. The coat has a semi-loose back, held by one of the stylish belts of crimson leather. The front is loose, and when open reveals a vest of dark crimson cloth embroidered in a darker brown ana crimson, and a thread of gold. Just a tint of red runs through the tweed. The braid- ing is wonderfully effective and a crimson glace taffeta lines it. A brown felt hat is trimmed with wide bows of brown taffeta. A knot or crimson velvet rests next the @usky bair. Very recently an unuasually handsome woman wore a pale green silk covered with striped rather light blue canvas, the bodice being of blue and green brocade adorned with vold galon as a girdle, =oft grayish chiffon with ruched ends was worn very gracefully. It was about three yards and three-quarters in length. A young woman on the same occasion appeared in a stylish gown of pretty col- ored facecloth. The loose jacket lined with turquoise blue taffeta had three really beautiful buttons of a turquoise blue set in silver down thefront. Worn under the swell coat was a blouse of turquoise blue taffeta with a yoke of fine silver embroid- ery. This also formed cuffs, and the slen- der, graceful fignre might have passed for a Paris fashion plate, for the hai of pretty colored straw was braided with turquoise- lined chinelle. At the left side was a large aigrette of white and gray, the crown being encircled with a loose twist of blue and gray velvet. The gray gloves had blue stitch, the gray parasol had a great ruche of blue and gray and a lining of blue. Every detail was complete and beautifully carried out and naturally the skirt’s lining matched that of the jacket. Very recently the Princess. de Sagan gave an elaborate and beautiful dinner | party in Paris, and naturally some of the gowns worn were very pretty. In almost every case the materials used were lignt and the bodices were almost without ex- ception richly trimmed with lace. None of the sleeves were large. The materials were principally gauze, tulle or muslin, and there were some lace skirts over silk. A charming dress was of soft silk, the color of a rose petal; on each seam wasa ruche of pinked-out tarlatane, the same carried round the foot of the skirt and on the corselet forming bretelles; elbow sleeves of tarlatane over silk, fulled at the seams and drawn in with a band of pink moire. A dress of white tarlatane over white silc was striped with Valenciennes lace; the bodice trimmed V-shape with lace; waistbelt and bows of soft cerise silk draped round the waist, Americans will be interested in learning that at Deauville the Princess de Sagau has been dethroned, socially. and the young Count and Countess Castellane (nee Gould) reign in her stead. Their yellow liveries and atteluge a la Danmont attract univer- sal attention. The Countess is said to act in a winning and graceful manner. The other day at the races she wore a dress of » soft woolen material, the bodice of which was covered with light Isce, the same ar- ranged en guilles, and flounces on the skirt. A wide belt of black faille and a white straw hat witk black and white feathers completed her costume. On the same occasion anotber fair Countess ap- = peared in a pretty light-blue foulard with | Some of the bandsomest dresses will | £ Parisian Hats and Coiffure In Paris the bair is being dressed much higher than it has been for some time, the knot being arranged almost upon. the summit of th- head, and hats continue to be worn tilted well over the eyes, asis | absolutely necessary with the present style of coiffure. The Parisienne very carefully considers the relation of her hats and gowns; as a B0 -k V/:\?filf/fi- S i ¥ | i w /L = thermn suggest the use of shawls. Matelasse patterns of aH kinds are tobe largely employed, and the new vigogne in light greens, blues, yellows, browns and pinks, with self-designs upon them, either of flowers or waved stripes, are pronounced novelties. Young girls will select them and look very pretty in them, and their elders will use them for evening dresses. : //mfl\\)\m-, result, she has for the present banished the extreme hat and instead is ordering toques and small hats, trimmed simply bui with rare artistic skill. Fiuted rib- bons bound with black velvet are the newest of hat trimmings, and the white and black ostrich feathers have taken the place of flowers, the only exception being made in favor of the red poppy, which is fw;'e %) =ik 7 (’W\"‘" Y le g A enjoying an exceptional vogue. One model chapesu has an entire crown of brilliant red poppies massed together, from which arose a bunch of soft-looking curled white quills. The first Paris hats are’just beginning to appear in fashion’s horizon, and from that quarter comes the information that “all the crowns are going to be very high and narrow, tapering almost to a point. A ‘picture hat’ of black satin has a facing and band around the narrow crown of black velvet. The very wide brim is edged with a fine plaiting of black tulle. Well toward tioe back and on the left are a number of black feathers, one arranged under the brim to fall over the hair. It would be most effective on a young girl, but not on her older sister. A charming little theater hat has a narrow high crown of green tulle embreidered with blue, pink, green and bronze sequins. The front and back of the hat are composed of sprays of P g e forget-me-nots, the desired width on either side being obtained by a series of loops of blue ribbon; on the left a bunch of green grasses and a twist of yellow lace relieve the general flatness of the brim. It is charmingly French.” ‘We are assured that Amazon checks of loud and mixed colorings will shortly be much worn, and there are numerous soft woolen materials with a zibelline surface, viz.: with a soft, hairy,\fluffy face, and on this plain figures are introduced. Fancy tweeds of every possible mixture are sell- ing well in Europe. Some of the novel- ties in winter fabrics resemble check can- vas and have multi-colored cashmere stripes. There are also plaids in fancy tweeds which are beautified by the soften- ing effect of the boucle weaving, when such shades as blue, peacock green and red are blended together. One of the new- est of the season’s cloths has a check like a zaufre cake with the curled thread on the surface. Besides the pure woolen goods there are a great many intermixed with silk. Some have a slightly chine effect and many a NEW YORK, N.Y., Sept. 29.—Ho for city parks and city streets once more! Vacation days are past, and sunburned, freckled hu- manity is trooping back to town, loaded down with taggy, dusty clothing, battered straw bats and crumpled summer finery. Good-by, summer! Good-by, canned fruits and vegetables! Adieu, mine host the wily landlord, thy country hotel was not country enough for us. Even thy cream and butter and eggs were sent to thee from the great city! There, there, let it pass. Presto! Change!l The melancholy days have come, the saddest of the year; and yeta Californian feels quite at home in New York these humid September days. Never have there seemed to be so many familiar faces from the “land of goiden pop- pies” and big, true hearts as there are here now. Rev. John Hemphill and wife are at the Gil- sey House, having arrived last Tuesday. Miss Jennie Dunphy, who nas been abroad during the past two years, will start for Cali- fornia shortly. Her niece, Miss Viola Plercy, who has been studying abroad, will not take the journey to Califorma, but will enter a young ladies’ seminary, near New York City, until Miss Dunphy returns. Colonel and Mrs. Richard Henry Savage are among those who have taken up their abode in Gotham permanently. They have returned from a long vacation, and are comfortably set- tled in their apartments at the Girard. J. Park Henderson. late of the San Francisco Bar, has joirted the downtown colony of Cali- fornians and opened offices on Lower Broad- way. Seabury C. Mastick, an able young lawyer and son of Judge E. B. Mastick, {s perma- nently established in New York. Though his family lives in California, he frankiy con- fesses that his one roason for coming to this city was to make a record for himself unaided by the influence of powerful friends and inter- ested relatives. Mr. Mastick is to be married on Thursday, October 1. The bride-elect is the danghter of Dr. Lucien C. Warner, the in- ventor. The wedding will be celebrated at Dr. Warner's residence, “Osborne Terrace,” at Irvington-on-the-Hudson. Mr. and Mrs. Mas- tick will reside In New York. Their new home on Mount Morris avenue is now ready for occupancy. Mr. Mastick left Friday for Chicago to meet his mother, Mrs. E. B. Mas- tick, and accompany her on to New York. Bhe will arrive Tuesday and will remain until after the wedding. Mrs, C. W. Howard hes left the Cambridge and- taken spartments at the Park-avenue Hotel, in order to be near her son, who is very ill in Dr. Bull's private hospital, on Thirty~ third street. A fine-looking, sunburned chap came hur- rying up Fifth avenue the other morning, swinging a tightly rolled umbrella and softly humming the latest Parisian ditty. He was Emile A. Bruguiere Jr., just returned from Paris, where he went last June. He and his brother Francis have had a jolly time this summer, he says; and though he regrets not being able to return to San Francisco immedi- ately he will look forward to that pleasure next spring, at the end of the Harvard College term. He will leave for Boston to-morrow, and enter into college routine at once. Francis Stuart and Andrew Bogart have left the city to visit relatives of Mr. Stuart in Piqua, Ohio. Robert Geisllich and Thomas A. Smith are at the Metropolitan. This used to be the Cole- man House. The place looks familiar, how- ever, because genial Charles Pearson is behind the desk and greets the old friends from Cali- fornia with the hearty welcome which made his father, H. H. Pearson of the Baldwin, famous. 7 W. H. Miner, the coffee merchant, is here on business, and W. B. Starboard, who has estab- tished business in New Haven, Conn., was in town this week. Mr. and Mrs.-J. F. Eastland are here at the Fifth-avenue Hotel, Mrs. M. de Forest js at the Hotel Bartholdi. Talk about this being ‘‘the woman's age.” Mankind had better be wideawake in these bicycle - dress - reform-tight-sleeve-times. Wo- men have been so persistently forging ahead during the past few years that to-day they are strong enough and able enough to organize into one mighty host and sweep about every- thing before them. There are a half-dozen “Women Republican A CALIFORNIANS SOJOURNING IN NEW YORK clubs” in New Yorks. They have magnificent banners stretched across the busy thorough- iares ana are doing great and telling work for their party. Last Friday, during one of the meetings of an uptown Republican club, while the treas- urer and secretary were taking up the regular collection, by some twist or turn a number of coins fell to the floor and rolled, with a me- tallic ring, under the chairs of the ladies near. There was a rustling of silk petticoats, a wide- spread murmur and a dive for the truant coins. A couple of them rolled near the chair of a dear old white-haired lady. She looked at them with her eyeglasses held close to her eyes. She peered comically and said: ‘Not worth the bother: they’re only silver.” The little witticism was appreciated. We have been simply deluged with royalty and famous people lately. Of course, Barl Li took our breaths away for a few days, but the great steamers are unloading more titled for- eigners at our gates than we have been blessed with for many years. Among the numerous rames isone which may prove significant to Californians. It is thatof the subtle Sir Wil- liam Lane Booker, who was for many years Britieh Consul-General in this city. He was the organizer of a system which induced the English Government to intrust the Pinkerton agency of America to watch the Clan-na-Geel and . kindred organizations on this side of the ocean. Sir William is retired on a pension, but is subject to a recall at any time shouid the English Government need his services in public or secret negotiations. His name is still enrolled on the lists at the Foreign Office in London. Lady Booker is an American woman and for several years lived in San Francisco. She Bispham of that City when 8 William Booker. Dr. Ernest W. Auzal, whos for’ several years was stationed at Mare Island as assistant sur- geon in the navy, and who left there on the United States steamer Lancaster nearly six years ago, has settled permanently in New York as a specialist on nervous diseases, Dr. Auzal has devoted years to study, and after his retirement from the navy in 1893 he spent two years in the hospitals of Berlin and Paris. He is meeting marked success in this city. The opening of Siegel-Cooper’s monster store on Sixth avenue and Eighteenth street has been the talk of the town since it began busi- ness last Monday morning. The small tradesmen in the avenue will suffer greatly. Theycannot stand such mag- nificent opposition. Hon. James G. Maguire spent a few hours in the city yesterday. He has been over in Bos- ton taking testimony in the great Santa Cruz bond case. He left last evening for Dallas, Tex., where here he wili attend the grand reunion of the Ancient Order of Odd Fellows, arriving in San Francisco about the 29th inst. Mr. and Mrs. Clarke Alberti of San Diego have just arrived. Mrs. Albertl was Miss Waterman, daughter of the late Governor Weterman. She is bere to study vocal and in- strumental music. Her voice is of a superior quality—soprano—and her ambition is to be- come a concert and oratorio singer. There is a little Californian in town now who is winning much genuine praise from the big newspaper critics. She playsin the new comic opers, “Lost, Strayed or Stolen,” and her name is Georgie Caine. She used to 1ive in Oskland and sang a great deal in pub- lic. Do you recall her 7 Charles Weils, rider for the Bay City Wheel- ‘men, was one of the pace-makers at the Man- hattan Beach races Saturday. The dreadful electrical storm which swept over Manhatian and Coney islands Saturday afternoon brought the races to a sudden finish. Several nders ‘were thrown from their wheels by the terrific force of the gale which sprung up and the thousands of spectators made a grand rush for home and shelier. Much damage was done by the storm and the cycle track was converted into s muddy circular river inside of fifteen minutes. Otto Ziegler, riger for the Garden City ‘Wheelmen, is in excellent spirits and has never been in better form than he is now. He declares he is well pleased with his past season and has received his share of winnings, TRELLA FoLTZ TOLAND, element. Fancy cashmerian stripes ::iidhnoy diagonals both develop this. There is a sort of black hopsacking with cashmerian designs thrown upon it, and fancy zibelline and silk reps, yhfle woolen figures appear on matelasse silk grounds. Another novelty is the thick buketvwork cloth in black and colors, some with a black surface and colors thrown on them, just exactly like 2 plait. Bright-ool.ored metallic effects, like beads or pin points, appear on many of the black checks, and we seldom have had anything at all like, in past years, the chine zibellinu‘w.nh flowered designs. But notwithstanding all this, a great many of the best dresses will be made in unfigured materials, 'lnd there is a plain, open, coarse hopsacking, which the best dressmakers are greatly patronizing. . Jeweled bodices now enjoy a great vogue. Ruby red and geranium red, mauve and rose pink in silk, but more usually velvet, form most effective foun- dations for the jewels. These are riveted on, the fine work being carried out with the precision of a piece of jewelry. FASHIONS FOR GENTLEMEN In London well-turned-out men are wearing plain black cloth overcoats with their evening dress. The Invernessor cape overcoat goes out of fashion this winter. The plain black cloth of the vicuna or un- dressed worsted, some what extra heavy, makes an excellent o vercoat, and the new- est falls a little below the knee, hasa fly front and is made very full in the back. For overcoats dark browns and dark blue cloths are still in favor and the materials employed are either beaver or cheviot. Velvet collars are correct. There are but few novelties in under- wear. Ascots and four-in-hands are in vogue, but the colors are dark. Some haberdashers are showing black grounds covered or sprinkled with red or green figures. ) New Yorkers have never countenanced shirts with plaited bosoms; as a result they are a complete failure and are selling below the cost of production. Fawn waistcoats are de mode; the double-breasted ones only are occasion- ally worn with frock coats, but the single- breasted and the multi-colored ones have been discarded by all smart men. The swellest waistcoat now worn (with a frock coat only) is the double- breasted white one; for evening wear the double-breasted waistcoats of white duek. cut very low with only two buttons dee}; and a very narrow collar around the almost perfect M, are being worn by those who set the fashions in such matters, Frock coats are a trifle shorter this sea- son, as they extend only an inch and a half below the knee and are loose in fit, ‘The three buttons are never fastened. Him informs us that for the country an English tailor has recommended a lounge riding rig of a short, comforta ble sack coat of cheviot, black preferred; a waistcoat of flannel with a small check ‘of red and black, and four flap pockets and breeches of stout white drill. With this you may either wear box-cloth gaiters or brown tops. Another New York authority writes: *‘The cloth which is said to be used for lounge, morning or business suits this autumn must therefore be as appropriate for golf or wheeling as for the office or the street. Tweeds and cheviots still lead, the colors in favor being grays and browns, and the ever-useful shepherd’s plaid. In London the browns have Lad their day and the prevailing note in color is gray. There have been already seen in this country some very smart lounge suits mads of gray worsted. There is no change in thé shape .of the sackcoat, which is as it was last year, rather loose, to the figure. The trousers are ordinarily wide. The official measurements are about nineteen inches around the knee and about seven- teen and a half at the bottom, j everything about our toilettes 22090299 In Capes It Is the Cavalier The latest style in capes is called the “cavalier.” It can be utilizea for either day or evening wear. One model is of pink-striped velvet, with a plain cape of pink watered moire below it. Itisfullin the back and richly trimmed with ermine. The pink velvet is striped with black. The designer has sent home for day wear one of gray cloth, with an overcape of gold and brown velvet above with a chinchilla collar, Novellies are in the greatest demand as the season nears its close, and we read that “the real surprises have been bewitching little collets, although no one expected anything new or original could come from that quarter, the fashion of them being in its second year. The new ones are more a part of the gown—very gay and coquette, One of these confections, of which thers were several worn at recent garden par- ties, was a veritable Marie Antoinette of changeable blue and straw-color silk, with two pinked-out bias ruffles arouna the cape and one ruffle bordering the long ends, which were tied in the back. ¢ Another in pink silk, shot with green, was lovely and much the same model, but trimmed with pink mousseline de soie plisse in triple shoulder ruffles, and double ones around the long ends.” Blue and white foulard that have been quite the rage this spring in London have not excited any enthusiasm here or at Newport. Vests of white kid, suede and glace, em- broidered with steel orsilver, are being re- garded with favor. It isstill an undecided question as to whether fashion leaders will regard favorably any radical altera- tions in the plain skirts, but plain flat bands of trimming are almost certain to be employed, and in London tailor-made gowns will have numberiess rows of stitch- ing at the hem. On other gowns narrow braid, velvet or ribbon will be employed. Paillettes will be as much used as ever, but the shape and colorings will be more beautiful than ever. Bhades and colors demand our most serious consideration, for no matter how stylish or well made the gown, if its color emphasizes defects in the complexion or makes the wearer have a purplish cast, the dress is a failure. French women make a regular study of what tones suit them most perfectly, and each season nowa- days we have variations, and now I bear that browns, grays and fawns will be pre- ferred to dark rich blues, greens or shades of violet, but almost all of us feel a relief at this announcement, as at s0 many stores the display of purplish and bluish tones during the last week have made me firmly resoive to carefully avoid them. Truly beautiful are the newest shades of cigar brown and a deep pinky crimson, in which there is to_be detectea a suspicion of geranium, and cerise promises to be re- garded w:th great favor, and we must be more careful than ever before to have either match or harmonize perfectly; and this will not be such a serious undertaking as heretofore, for all the leading houses are importing the trimming, etc., that blend with each pattern dress, and almost every fashionable color can be found in the new kids. MARCELLA. § 3 : NEW TO-DA wasssssssssS! Special Saving Sale. Havfiand China With beautiful hand-decorated sprays of flowers, at these SPECIAL PRIC.S until Wednesaay night. Teacups and Saucers, 20¢ and 25¢; Coffee, 380c and 35¢; At ter-dinner Cof- fee, 20¢; Dessert rge Plate 25cg 8, Fine Thin Wa~ ter Tumblers, en- graved in tne popular lace pate tern, regularly $125,g0 at 75 Cents Per Dozen. THAT BIG CHINA STORE— 4 Quarter of a Block Below Shrave's, WANGENHEIM, STERNHEIM & CO. 528 and 530 Market St., 27 and 29 Sutter St., BELOW MONTGOMERY. sessssssesss $75 =4 ROOMS CONSISTING OF FURNITURERE PARLOR, BECROOM. DINING-ROOM, KITCHEN EASY PAYMENTS. Tapestry Brussels, per yard. 0il Cloth, per yard Matting, peryard ... .. Solid Oak Bed Suit, 7 pieces Solid Oak Folding Bed, with Mirror. T. BRILLIANT, 410 POST ST.,above Powell X e OFEN EVENINGS r-Room Oatalogaes Mailed Free. 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