The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, September 20, 1896, Page 22

22 THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 20, 1896 THE MUOSCLES SHOULD BE R Did vou ever try to push a kitten over the edge of a step? The guestion hasa suggestion of cruelty, but kittens hnv_e a way of getting under foot, and thc_cnl isa frequent victim to the popular belief that she has nine lives. Butif in a moment of haste and irritation you ever did givea kitten a thrust from the edge of stair, chair or table you doubtless remember how determinedly it resisted the impul?e that obeyed would have precipitated it floor- ward. With all its not inconsiderable might, with bracing of paws and cl.\ltch- ing claws, the timid speck of a kitten, whose eyes are open, will resist whatever jts instinct warns it is likely to produce pain. You do not have to guard the small creature from harm as, for innancg. you must guard the baby. If by chance it does get a 1all can you imagine any young cat in possession of its senses rolling from top to bottom of a stair as a young or fre- quently an adult human being seems to think he must simply because he has fallen over the first step? I read recently with considerable amuse- ment an account of how would-be actors | are taught to fall. It was curiously sug- gestive of the faulty training we give these bodies of ours, that we should for a mo- ment consider itan art for any man who knows he is going to fall at a certain in- stant to go down in such a way as not to sustain any injury. Not only should we be able to do this, but had we such pos- session of our faculties as should be the inheritance of every human being we might easily prevent ourselves from fall- ing at unexpected times, or when we fall unexpectedly might unconsciously gather ourselves as quickly as a cat does and, like her, fall upon our feet. The young cat shrinks back from the brink over which the young child calmly rolls to serious injury, not really because it has an instinct which the child does not possess, which warns 1t of possible barm, but because it possesses in addition a muscular consciousness descended to it through countless generations or ances- tors who have developed this conscious- ness through use. The cat is not alone in possessing it. You cannot pass vour hand before the eyes of a blind horse without causing the creature to wince; not because he sees your hand, which may be a foot away from his face, but because his sensitive muscles warn him of its presence. All creatures, even very young ones, have the ability of self-protection to a greater de- gree than the human being, but there is no reason in the nature of things why tuis should be so. If mothers, instead of hovering over their children, forbiading them every sort of amusement that seems to possess an element of danger and ren- dering them helpless by unnecessary care and atiendance, devoted alittle intelligent effort to teaching them to recognize and efficients and fewer accidents than we now hear of. As it is most of us never learn what our bodies are capable of. We are content to accept the theory that we have five senses; to give these a fair degree of development and to consider that thus we have fulfilled the demands of “‘the modern fad for phys- ical culture.’”” But we shall never ao enough until we have become as deft as cats in the handling of our bodies. Children should be given exercise which does more than develop the muscles. These can really grow at the expense of the nerves that supply them, wkile their real muscular consciousness or sensitive- ness remains undeveloped. We are still a long way behind the Japanese in athletic training, and we shall remain behind them until we learn that ‘deftness and efficiency are as desirable as mere strength. " Of what avail is it that a man can strike a sledge-hammer blow when awake if an enemy can catch him sleeping? The human ORE SENSITIVE being who boasts that he has strong nerves because he is not airaia of ghosts and can suffer or see suffering-without flinching may betray himseif, unconsciously, by his involuntary start at a sharp unexpected noise or the quiet approach of another person. ‘We know how acute becomes the con- sciousness of those who live much with nature; but civilization is rapidly lower- ing the physical standard of man and all our boasted physical cuiture is not suffi- cient to counteract its enervating in- fluences. Ispoke in my last paper of the benefit to be derived from so simple an exercise as making the tips of the thumbs meet accurately above the head. There are other “‘trifles light as air’’ that are equally useful and as easily practiced. If you wish to know how little real muscular consciousness there is in the tips of your fingers, despite the exquisite nervous en- | dowment of these organs, here is a test for it: Close your eyes and resting your elbows npon the table before you endeavor to make the tips of your two forefingers meet. After several attempts you will bump them together, but it will take considerable practice before you will be able to touch tip to tip lightly, delicately, quickly’and accurately. You will not be able to main- tain your first effort very long, not be- cause of muscular fatigue, but because of the strain upon your closed eyes. These organs are almost the most hope- lessly overworked servants in the body. So accustomed are they to doing the work of all the cther members that even the closing of the lids is not always taken by them as a signal to go off duty, and guite unconsciously on your part the eyes strain and tire themselves in the vain ef- fort to see the whereabouts of each finger and telegraph it to the brain, that the latter may guide the wandering tips to the trysting place. This, because, with a nervous endowment superior to that of any other creature, we suffered our sense of touch to deteriorate until we uncon- sciously rely upon sight for the aid it shouid give us. Psychologists tell us that muscular ac- tivity is, after all, mental activity. This is undoubtedly true, but even the most active brain cannot move promptly through irresponsive muscies, and hitherto the tendercy of most of our physical cul- ture has been to make the muscles re- sponsive to but one demand of the brain— that calling upon them to put forth strength. What we need now is training that shall make our muscles sensitive as well as strong. The right hand has been too long ignorant of what the left hand is doing, while at the same time the two have been too long dependent upon direc- tion from the same centers. The twoact | together unconsciously, yet lack the keen avoid danger, we should have fewer in- | perception by which they unerringly meet in the dark. The same lack of real co- ordination exists between hands and feet. If you do not believe 1t try so simple an exercise as a conscious direction of the in- teraction of the legs and arms in walking. You will find, for instance, that if you swing yourarms at all the richt one comes forward at the same time as does the left foot. Now, try walking steadily and light- ly, bringing your right arm forward simul- taneously with your rignt foot. It will take you some little time to learn how. Probably you will lose your balance, or even get a fall before you accomplish the new trick. Itis worth while to persevere, however, if only for the satisfaction of knowing where your arms and legs really are, and that they are there in response to intelligent direction from the brain. There is another benefit in the action, in that it brings into play muscles not generaily used and thereby increases the body’s power and usefulness. Man differs from the lower animals in e Under the first head comes the San Souci costume, SOME NEW AND BECOMING BICYCLE COSTUMES THAT ARE POPULAR which can readily be appre- ciated, even by those wto wear bloomers, asitisa jaunty habit of the newest cut. The cloth is a slate-gray tweed, the collar being of white boxcloth. tie and lining of the Zouave jacket are of black satin; with black, the shirt bosom is speckled with it and a rib the very becoming cap. I know the criticisms made concerning such skirts, mistress of the wheel not long ago declared that th hended from long skirts except from beginners. However, I know that the “divided skirt,”” or as it is called the ‘‘new bicycling skirt,” by many. The stylish one illustrated buttons down the center of the front, the back when riding, being unbuttoned, 80 as to fall on either side of the wheel. ing the skirt looks like any ordinary one. bocker costume. This has been patented. can be quickly converted into skirts. The setting perfectly. skin, the puckle being of dull gold. The gown is of fawn cloth, and the coat is lined with white satin; the large white collar is of cloth, striped with fawn. The hat of Panama straw has a full bow of 2 blue shot taffeta ribbon at the left side. The result is excellent, but numerous are those who do not feel safe even when | thus attired; so an ingenious English woman evolved the loose-fitting knicker- By means of strings the knickerbockers model given isof an greenish cheviot, lined with a rich dark crimson surah, at once seen to be the work of a good tailor, 80 excelleatly well does it fit, the pleats The belt worn is an unusually handsome one of green alligator The gaiters are of a fine black cloth, As yet I The girdle, neck- tl:e white gloves are stitched bon of black satin encircles but a woman who is a perfect ere was no danger to be appre- is regarded with greater approval ‘When walk- unusually light weight, The pleated Norfolk jacket is that he must learn through experience what they know by instinct. The child learns, in time, what the kitten knows in- stinctively, that to crawl over the edge of the top stair is to fall, but few of us learn, as we go through life, what the kitten ac- | quires almost as soon as it can run, the art of catching ourselves, balancing our- selves and assisting a fall in such manner as to fall upon our feet. When, by some lucky chance we do fall thus, we are almost certain to come down flat-footed, the most of our weight upon our heels, with the kind of concussion some one has graphically described as driving the spinal cord through the brain.’ Most women jump this way and never seem to learn the art of coming down upon the toes, bending the knees and recovering the balance with a little upward spring. The exercises that promote muscular sensitiveness are of so gentle an order that the athletic girl is apt to smile at hearing them called exercise. They are of value, bowever, even in the matter of increasing strength. In this class belong many of the exercises in the Swedish system of physical culture, movements directed toward the gentle, systematic, progres- sive awakening or each muscle in the body, bringing all to harmonious growth, rather than a few, or even a majority to excessive development. This last, it can- not be too often said, is the tendency, and a mischievous one, of nearly all modern athletic fads. Whoever takes up some athletic pastime rides it as a hobby, wheeling, rowing, riding, playing golf or tennis, until there is a specialization of the muscular development, with—be it carefully noted—a corresponding special- ization of brain development, for if mus- cular activity is really brain activity, then it follows that the particular portions of the brain that control oft-repeated special muscular acts develop equally with the muscles they control, and at the expense of other less exercised areas. Carefully considered, this view of tae matter must materially alter the ordinary conception of “a sound mind in a sound body.”” The physical culture of the future, to be really worthy of being called physical cultare, will aim at producing in the hu- man being the same sensitiveness that warns the lower animals of danger and makes their muscles alert and prompt to act. By all rights instruction in the noble art of self-defense should include development of the special senses of sight, taste, smell and touch as well as of the muscles that enable one to strike from the shoulder, for as civilization advances it is presumable that dangers will come oftener along these lines than by direct violence. PENELOPE POWELSON. THE FASHION IN FURS Already we have been given an idea or two concerning what are to be the fash- ions in furs. Caracule will probably be worn considerably. It is being made up into longer and fuller capes than last winter, as both Caracule and mink capes are being made so full that they fall in regular flutes, and some of last year's styles are lengthened by adding a gathered flouncing of fur to the hem. The result is said to be good, but I rather doubt it. Some sealskins are being treated in a simiiar manner. Skirts That Reach the Ankle, the Divided Skirt, Patented Knickerbockers and Bloomers Bicycle Castnmeskthe Skirt That Reaches the Knickerbockers and Bloomers have not had the pleasure of investigating such a Ankles, the Divided Skirt, Patented, costume, so must leave to your imagination how the cords ars arranged, and how the skirt is cat, what its width, ete. Ican only add that there are many admirers of the try. The sailor hat worn is of black straw, biack ribbon band. bloomers and bioomers; for instance, couid not have been improved upon. made a strong bid for popalar favor, knickerbocker skirt in this coun- two green quills being stuck through the It is true that bloomers are regarded with women; and I confess that in spite of the fact that th, to wear on a bicycle, I cannot bear to see women we: park. In the seclusion of the country they are not great prejudice by many charming ey are certainly the safest togs aring them—well, say, in the so bad, and of course there are the least objectionable I have ever seen were cut full, and were composed of a dark blue serge. The c lined with dark green taffeta. The shirtwaist, the ti oat was beyond all criticism and e, the gaiters, the hat and gloves At first in Paris knickerbockers and bloomers and many were the jokes and cartoons circulated The predictions that men would shortly be seen attired in waistcoats and ties of a rainbow-like brilliancy will not be verified this winter; instead, even the fawn-colored waistcoat is passe, the white having taken its place for afternoon dress, and brown shoes are not to be worn ex- cepting for country wear or for mufti. Rough goods are among the most stylish which have thus far reachea New York, and for lounge suits cheviots will be much worn by smart men. Covert coats are preferred in drab. They are to be made loose, and only a good tailor can cot the new coats with any measure of success. “Him” in his last article gives some val- uable information, as he is well qualified to do. Concerning the frock coat he writes: The frock coat will have three buttons and Wwill extend exactly to the knees. My tailor furnishes me these data, which I should say can be taken as an absolute criterion: “The skirts are moderately long, say about forty inches, and the natural waist—whatever that may mean—is 17 and the fashion waist 18l4. (I feel now as if I was calling out numbers in his fitting room). Vicuna with a twill pattern or perfectly smooth is the material. The 1apels are faced with silk. They are not built up as formerly, and the shoulders are devoid of padding. Men are expected to wear their frock coats unbuttoned. Angola will be one of the popular cloths for trousers. Gray- striped cashmere, however, is always consid- ered neat, conservative and smart. The promised checks have not matured.” This latter sentence has & financial ring about it, albeit dismal, which is quite refreshing. Trousers will continue to be cut about 19 knee and 1714 bottom. Itis very English now to call your dinner- coat a dress jacket, and our British cousins are falling in line and are wearing that very use- ful garment at many minor functions. It comes back to them after & season of being transplanted, a popular hybrid which will al- ways bave a place in their wardrobe. The dress jacket has the roll collar and its siik fac- ings are brought to the very edge of the lapel. I believe evening waistcoats will be without collars. Pajamas in pongee silk are very satisfac- tory, especially when the white is used, as itis well known pink and blue silks are more fashionable, but they soon have a faded appearance. C. C. Ti diculing the English women, who from the first frowned u ments. Now the strictest English spinster bicycle habit built with a skirt just to cover her shoetops who prides herself on always being correctly attired. isonly a question of time and we will cease to see anythin bloomers, and I am perfectly ready to admit that some of the consider them the most truly modest and correct atiire, which, they declare, constantly catches in the wheel, to your attention a description of a costume which 1. every wheelwoman it contains valuable advice: “In the park the other morning, when ing cycling habit worn by a very pretty woman, It was built of navy-blue corduroy cloth. In point of color and text: A tight-fitting coat bodice belted with black saiin, with narrow the figure, which was slight and graceful. The bodice was wor! than which no other hangs hali so well. A dark biue straw En; ruching of pinked-out blue taffetas, a bunch ot biue quills at th, note of neatness and trimness so desirable. cate bands of throat and cuff linen, answer for one will not for the other.” ® OF A lovely blonde created quite a little flutter not many days ago, so beautifal was she in a pale blue and white foulard frock. The bodice of plain light blue surah was covered with white mousseline the immaculate cravat with mull, a pleasing feminine touch to soften the sev. hose above the neatest of black iies buttone chamois gloves. Park rides and country rides de soie with lace flowers let in transpar- ently. The perfectly cut skirt had in- numerable tiny tucks from” the waist to the hips, while the waist was trimmed with five cordings set closely together in a Vandyke pattern. Encircling the rounded waist was a silver belt richly adorned with 'zurqnoiseu, a slender string of which were worn also around her throat. An October’s vride will leave home in one of the most stylish tailor-made dresses I have seen for a long time. It is of a very handsome green smooth-faced ladies’ cloth. The little basque is short and cut 80 as to show a smart bit of a V-shaped vest of white cloth, braided with tiny black and green silk braid. The short cape, worn of the same material, is beauti- fully cutand lined with a novel black silk, covered with green leaves exactly match- ing the green in the costume. The hat which will be worn with it is an entirely new shape felt, an exceptionally fine one, which is trimmed with a studied sim- plicity. This same bride has for one of her din- ner dresses quite a lovely crepe de chine of a light pearl gray, that is to say the skirt is of the crepe, around the bottom of which are five very narrow rows of apple- green mousseline de soie rnchings; the bodice is of apple-green mousseline de soie over silk of tne same shade. A mere band ruche of the mousseline is the only sleeve. A wide sash of the crepe has two deep ruches on each end. Of course, it per- fectly matches the mousseline, and the shade of gray is exactly the right one to combine with apple-green and vastly be- coming. From Parishas just arrived a simple and effective confection for an extremely styl- ish matron. The gown js made of a ma- terial which has a tobacco-brown back- ground, over which are small, raised, ir- regular lines of black, green, red and blue. The plain, five-yard-wide ekirt is lined with a beautiful guality of surah, which changes from green to red and from red to blue. The Eton-cut jacketreveals a vest of white suede, most charmingly embroid- ered in brown, green, red and blue silks, a veritable work of art. The sleeves are of the old coat shape and have curious tri- angular-shaped little cuffs of the embroid- ered suede. Many authorities declare that flounced skirts will shortly be universally worn in the evening, and it is reported that we are to return to the old style by separate foun- dations, and these will induce the frilied appearance round the hem which we are about to be compelled to cultivate after the style of our grandmothers. In this case a separate silk foundation and a tight bodice lining, also of silk, could be used for half a dozen gowns, and should such economy be necessary I should advise them to have a good quality of white glace taffeta, which can pay many visits to the cleaners with satisfactory results. Taulle is to be so generally used this win- ter that a description of a Newport gown 7 e pon such masculine gar- isnot more particular about having her than the French woman, However, many predict that it g out of the way in most sensible of women and langh to scorn the skirt, In conclusion, let me commend ately appeared in Vogue, as for it was cool and delightful, I saw a becom- accompanied by her two young sons. ure it was perfect. basque lying flat to n with a divided skirt, glish tnrban, with full e side, emphasized the Then came the well-put-on veil, the deli- lace incrusted on the ere cloth ontlines. Black silk-ribbed d at the sides. The freshest of white each have a fit style, and what will MARcELLA, THE COSTUME OCTOBER BRIDE ONE composed of it1s worthy of serious con” sideration. Most of us have been attending the openings this week, and I have been espe. cially interested in the displays of hats and bonnets. Some were good, some wera bad and several indifferent. However, I feit amply repaid for my expenditure of time afier investigating twenty or more of the most chic of chaveaux that ever left Paris. Every one showed that they had been selected with the greatest care by a Woman possessed of rare judgment and taste, who certainly spent no less than two months in the gay capital choosing novelties that will delight even her most fastidious customers. You must see a French hat to appieciate fully its charms, fs even the most successful word-painters fall far short of the mark, but I will at- tempt the description of a few of the mil- linery triumphs, each of which I found a sore temptation. z One love of a bonnet recalled a modified colonial shape—that is to say, it has a small brim and a dear little crown about three inches high. It is composed of a really beautiful shade of rose pink velvet, & narrow edging of black ostrich feathers surround it, and three or so good tips stand up at one side. The long pink taf- feta strings are edged with narrow black Valenciennes lace. Nearitreposed in a sub= stantial box a bonnet of canary velvet all wrinkled and crinkled in a marvelous manner, and every wrinkle and crinkle was edged with real Valenciennes lace by a creamy line. A touch of black gave it a certain indescribable air quite delightrul and charming, and utterly different in every respect was a third, which showed how cleverly velvet, cheuille and straw can be handled. In it were blended two shades of heliotrope, velvet with a touch of white and some handsome jet. An avricot velvet toque was much ad- mired by almost every one, the rich vel vet ana the truly exquisite-shaded roses with their leaves will find a proper resting-place, I trust, on the head ot a beautiful brunette with a small oval face. | Another toque of quite anew shade of crushed-strawberry velvet has a beaver crown, roses matching the velvet, and roses of a green shade are placed here and there on the hat with excellent effect. Chenille and straw are in high favor for autumn wear and may be seen this winter as well. A hat having a brim of a most picturesque greenish straw mingled with chenille of a darker shade bas a crown ot fawn-colored felt. At either side are bunches of biack bird of paradise feathers and here and there a small bow of black watered moire ribbon. Ilost my neart to this creation until 1 realized the charms of a black one, in which straw and chenille were mingled, and the very simple trimming consisted of upstanding loops of white moire rib- bons with quillings on the edges of black mousseline de soie, but all put together in a certain way that but few milliners understand. I almost forgot to mention a , unique bonnet which has two little crowns of lovely oriental embroidery, done on yellowish silk. The crowns are no less odd than the rest ot the shape, which looks like two black velvet triangles. Black velvet and ostrich feathers also enter into its complicated com position. Some excellent English hats have also arrived, which commend themselves highly for morning wear. MARCELLA. NEW TO-DAY. e NADE Or Water Sets, consisting of a Two- quart Pitcher, Six Glasses and Silver- ine Tray, in Genuine Bohemian Glass, handsomely etched and decorated in gold. reguiariv $2.25, go at $1.45 per set of Eight Pieces—a splendid bar- gain. 2 Also 175 Two-Quart Jugs, same style as above, go at 65 cents each. 8§ Dinner Sets, 115 pieces, in Mea- kin’s famous Decorated Royal Semi- Porc=lain, have bzen red ¥ A n reduced from $15 THAT BIG CHINA STORE— 4 Quarter of a Block Below Shrava's. WANGENHEIM, STERNHEIM & CO. 528 and 530 Market St., 27 and 29 Sutter St., BELOW MONTGOMERTY, $B67.50 4ROOMS FURNITURE. Kitchen: Table, 2 chairs, stove(No. 7). Dining-r.: Exten= sion table, 4 oak chairs. Bedr.: Selected ash set 7 pieces, wire and top mattress, 2 pillows. Parlor: Solid oak set 5 pieces. CARPETS AT LOWEST PRICES. SHIREK & SHIREK, HOUSE FURNISHERS, 747 Market Street, Opposite Grant Ave. TELEPHONE 5391. 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