The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, September 13, 1896, Page 29

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 1896. ALREADY THERE IS TALK OF THE FIRST COTILLON The first cotillon will not be danced for | several weeks, but already the discussion of evening gowns is becoming an. interest- ing topic of conversation, especially to the debutantes, who will, almost without ex- ception, dance their first cotillon garbed in snowy white, and wise is the maiden who wears nothing else during her first season, provided, of course, that it is be-| coming to her style of beauty. The great European dressmakers intend to make tulle over white satin again the most | fashionable combination, and one youth- ful belle will wear tulle and satin at her first dance, and mousseline de soie over the palest willow-green satin at her next, and besides has selected several quite lovely light figured silks which are to be made up with charming simplicity for less ceremonious functions. Time and thought must both be de- voted ungrudgingly to the successful evolution of the debutante’'s wardrobe, even when aucats are plentiful, and itis a great mistake to postpone until the llst! minute the choice of frocks, ete., for, unless the young girl is unusnaily strong, she cannot be expected to dance until the wee small hours with pleasure if the greater part of the day has been spent having her gown *“‘tried on.”” The thought- ful mother will see to all the little things that are such necessary adjuncts to s satisfactory toilette, for her dainty bud does not have to compete with debutantes alone, she must also show the seasoned belles that she can hold her own and is not to be overlooked. There would be {fewer sad little wall-flowers were all neces- sary points of success more carefully and deliberately studied, for the sweetest, brightest and most beautiful bud ever seen is very likely to biush unseen if her gown is a fail ure and her hair not arranged to the best advantage. Many teas will be given to introduce our future belles, al- though such an anthority as Julien Sar- dou declares that to launch a girl ata tea is sufficient to mark her a social failure, and advocates instead dinners, even if small ones only are given. Her opinions | are held by many sensible mothers who prefer that their daughters should thus quietly make their social entree among | their special friends. But to return to evening gowns. One for a dear little ma- tron is well worthy of our admiration. The skirt is of a heavy blush rose duchesse satin, and has two panels of pleated chiffon confined at the foot by bands of | gold passementerie. They arecompleted by a full ruching of chiffon. Chiffon grace- fully drapes the bodice, the handsome passementerie being introduced here and there. Two scarfs of chiffon lie in grace- ful flat bows on the shoulders, uver which are carried exquisite clusters of damask roses. Pink taffeta lines the entire gown. Alternate ruffles of pinked silk and lace make the inside almost as fetching as the exterior. That matrons understand the charms of tulle may be assumed when one reads irom a Newport correspondent these few lines concerning tulle marvels: Such wondrous work is done in tulle! What i design and what effects in this new broidery in jewels which we are now so fa- r with, done on those web-like transpa- Overdresses sre like fairy things, | g and glittering as if the wand hnd( touched them. There is danger in g, however, and mingling too many colors in stones as well as in anything else, | 1t is safer to keep a design in jewels as near to | supported largely by diamonds, as it is possible to do. As an instance, the superb gown worn by Mrs. M—at one of the big balls, built of white satin duchesse, with over- dress of white tulle, hanging apart below the knee. The design was carried out ina lace pattern with rubies and diamonds, the latter defining scrolls and arabesques, the former garlands and flowers; satin pointed decollete corsage, with designed empiecement, artisti- cally forming part of the bodice, and the sleeves merely wings of tulle, held together by scintillating jeweled band over the bare arms. With diamond tiara and necklace no sun at midday could be more brilliant than & toilette of thiskind in the evening. Quite stunning is the Redfern gown I present this week and it may be said to fill a long-felt want, for, while the skirt and bodice are of a soft black well-wearing material, the panels and tabs are of red moire. Upon this moire a design of black braid and cords is worked over a thin white cloth, which, in its turn, is cut away, and tbus leaves merely the most dainty design of white with biack border- ing wherever the pattern is applied. The tabs and every edge of the black cloth that lie upon thered moire are bound with a tight, narrow hem of real Persian lamb, and buttons of biack and white are em- ployed to complete this eminently useful as well as beautiful gown. This toilette will be sure to obtain great favor, for the correct shade of the Danish national red has been employed, and this is a becom- ing note of color to most women. The French conception can be worn in such places as San Mateo until almost the end of next month; the skirt of silver-gray cloth is adorned with scallops and lovers’ knots on white lace. The zouave pocket is of a truly beautiful shade of pinkish amethyst taffeta beantified with frills of embroidery, and three Strass buttons get in silver appear on each sleeve. The blouse of white satin is veiled with mous- zeline de soie. The sleeves should be noted and the smart bow with the buckle in the center. Tue hat is a model which will be mach affected all autumn. Very sensible is the mountaineering cos- tume for long pants, being made of either cheviot or unshrinkable cloth set off with revers, cuffs, belt and turned-down collar in blue or black velvet. Ornamental but- tons appear on the front box pleat and on that of the left hip, which is apparently raised 1o display a skirt in blue skirting. A sailor hat of coarse straw is usually trimmed merely with a band and cluster of loops in plain or club ribbon. Ascan be at once seen, this model is defective in one respect. Note the sleeves, which indi- cate that it was designed three months ago. - However, it is good, provided the sleeves are altered. Laced shoes of heavy kid completes this toilette, as laced shoes have long been known to be the best for long walks, as they afford the ankles more suvport. Mauby, the celebrated French tailor, has just created a model jacket for autumn wear, over which all his patrons are raving. It is made of cream cloth, with silk braidings; down both back and front extends a graceful pleat. In front this pleat closes in the center with invisi- bie fastenings. The skirt fits tightly round the lugs and hangs in four folds in the back. At a well-known summer resort lately were noted some gowns which were well worthy of the admiration and the com- ments they excited. One fair-haired and youthful matron wore & boaice of plain navy-biue surah, with many infinitesimal tucks. The finest of cream guipure and paste buttons completed it. The skirt lLung perfectly and was without orna- mentation of any sort. With it was worn a black chip hat of the new retrousse shape. | And the Belles Are Gonsidering What to Wear ‘and When to Wear lt—A Beautiful Autumn CGreation by Redfern, and a Chic Its trimmings consisted of a bow clasped by a paste buckle and a bunch of white- edged, dark bluish-green quills. A" very handsome brunette was gazed upon with unfeigned admiration wkhen she appeared in a princess dress of dark gray cloth, relieved by insertions of white cloth under black braiding. Her gray felt hathad a band of black ribbon and two erect seagulls’ wings; indeed, seagnils and their wings are being very extensively used by the most fashionable of milliners at the present moment. Another princess gown | was worn by a sweet-faced young girl with a mass of flaxen hair, a delicate color and a truly lovely complexion. It was of a light blue woolen fabric with tabs and rimmings of black velvet. The yoke was of a green silk covered with guipure lace. Over the brim of her black chip hat fell a festoon of yellowish and very fine old lace, shading a lining of pink miroir velvet. La France roses and a black bird of para- dise plume adorned the crown. Not long ago a well-known and beauti- ful actress appeared at a garden party D — == T PR PR n an exquisite frock of pale gray crepe de chine most beautifully embroidercd in green and pink sequins. The sleeves were of pale pink tulle a la mousquetaire, and the ceinture and sash of pink glace shot | with gray. Her bhat of pink rosebuds had a great ruche of gray tulle and many green leaves nestled among the roses. The shoes worn were gray suede in the same shade as the gloves. A parasol of pink glace covered with gray tulle, em- broidered with pink roses, completed this costume. Itis an established fact that princess gowns are to be among the modes all this winter. One of our best-gowned social leaders will be a picture in such a dress, which she has ordered to be. made of black velvet, with a front of white satin covered with mousseline de soie, in which silver paillettes glisten and the velvet is also to be embroidered with similar pail- lettes in an artistic but irregular pattern. The front trimming on the low bodice will be extremely effective, as the en- crusted silver paillettes overlap each other. The small elbow sleeves of black velvet are beautifully embroidered with the paillettes; a smali ruche of the mousse- line gives them a pretty finish. A bride has in her trousseau an evening gown of white moire with a rich pattern of flame-colored orchids and dull green leayes. The skirt is made very full, lined with silk matching the poppies. Within eighteen inches of the bottom is a broad band of sequin embroidery, in which all the colors of this beautiful gown are exquisitely blended. 'Lhe low bodice is cut square, is of the moire, the .stom- acher is of the sequins and the sleeves of mousseline of a flame color; sequins also appear on them. Moire is to be much worn, so I must re late that ata large ball another one of white moire will be seen. This one has a broad band of silver and turquoise em- broidery around the hem. The low bodice is draped with mousseline de soie, which is covered with silvery threads and turquoises. A long sash of the moire falls to the bottom of the skirt, the ends of which are daintily embroidered in the biue and silver. Pink roses are to be worn with this most fetching frock, the sleeves ot which are mere bands of embroidered mousseline laid over moire. The moire slippers are to have tiny buckles of tur- quoises set in silver. Some of the noveities for the coming season are delightful chines on cream grounds, with tucked stripes. Moire is well to the fore, and in colored silks moire effects appear on all sides, Chameleon mixtures find a place in the new mignon- jette silks, covered with tiny specks, like the sweet-scented bloom, Thegeare effect- ive in such mixtures as green, peach and brown. All the new fancy moires are par- ticularly bright, and the old moire antique is greatly in demand. For ball wear there are pink and blue moires with close set | French Gostume threads of silver, while old ladies are wearing armure royales. Everything | points to the employment of bright colors, | | a great variety of patterns, and a multi- | | tude of styles in dress and mantle making. | | The salient novelty in the coming au- | | tumn in woolen materials is the boucle | surface, this effect being generally pro- | | duced in black or such color as a rich vio- | let, peach-blue, verging on cornflower and | deep reds. | Lovely and chic are the white silk al- pacas with printed flowers upon them. Nearly every fashionabte possess one ere long, and the most besuti- | ful creamy white moires and poplins will f be worn with pretty light waists on numer- woman will | Thompson, Dr. Conrad;and our own John Muir have delighted thousands, and other writers are daily joining this goodly com- pany. As for fiction, there is really something bewildering in this making of many books. Fiction comes pouring in a steady stream from the presses of the world. Every possible human emotion, every phase of human thought, every manifes- tation of human activity, is being ex- ploited as never before in the history of the world. Nor was there ever more vigorous work | produced than is being done to-day. | Despite the cry of decadence and dilei- 2= ~ i T L i ) tantism, of corruption and feebleness, e FANZD TR Uy L) 3 LN WAl | REDFERNS AUTVMN Gown | the talking girl. I eannot swing Indian clubs, or fence, or bike, but I can sweep and clean, wash, 1ron, bake and brew, and beat your athletic girl at any one of them on a fair trial. I get as much exercise as she, and the work is of practical value.” I looked at Conservativia as she lay on the lounge. I knew shespoke truth. Con- ous occasions, as black skirts are so de- cidedly de mode with light waists. The best dressed women wear them no longer, { and when poplin or woire at $3 per yard | sem rather extravagant, mohair or aipaca | of the finest weaves may be employed | | instead, as, when made over white glace, | | they are certainly satisfactory. However, | L cannot ay that they clean as well as the | | other fabrics, and this must be iaken into | | consideration, for white soils so very | | quickly, and once anything loses its first | freshness its charm is gone. | Wedgwood buttons mounted on silver | are the dernier cri in Europe. Why Fiction Holds the | Reading World | MARCELLA. The. past twenty-five years have seen & marked change in the literary taste of peovle of culture throughout the world. Where book-loving men and women used to read poetry and essays and only now and then a great novel held public at- tention for a day, fiction and nature study reign supreme. We still read verse, it i!i be brought to the ultimate attention of symbolism, but we avoid long poems snd the essays in meter that were once so pop- ular, and dnly here and there do we find a reader of the old school sitting down to the leisurely perusal of essays. Books of out-of-door life, books of fiction, make up nearly the whole of our modern literature and next in order of popularity may be placed biography. ‘Why is this? Why are two branches of 1iterature apparently so widely separated as popular science and fiction simultane- ously engaging public attention? When Mme., de Stael said that she would not cross a room to behold the most beautiful view in the world, but would-cross an ocesan to talk with a clever man, she expressed the attitude of herage toward humanity and toward nature. The one was patronized and condescended to; the other was only of interest as he was clever or prominent. To-day nature is tous a book of wondrous interest, while as for man it suffices for our interest that be is human. “For is he not a man and a brother?” There was never a time when so many books about natural objects were being made and read. The field where once T heard on every side, the end of this cen- tury is being characterized by greater artistic virility, by an altogether higher creative reach, than we who are in the midst of it can rightly estimate. Our modern fiction differs from the old in being a study of life rather than of art. It concerns itself, primarily and finally, with the effort to read ‘“the painful riddle of the earth,” and an honest if somewhat mistaken effort to study humanity along wholly natural lines, ‘‘Can man by search- ing find out man?’ is its question, which fictionists are setting themselves to an- swer. Along true lines or false, our modern fiction’s consideration of human life is entirely serious. Itisa study which has its justification deep in the nature of things. Natare, life itself, is a constant earnest study of and running commentary upon itself. We can have no great and varjpus study of any series of phenomena | q-—ui D TN Y D A FRENCH (OSTUME 29 in human experience without direct re- sulting benefit. This explains somewhat why the makers of our modern literature are but obeying the genius of the age when they put that which they wouid have us undeistand in the garb of fiction. Consciously or unconsciously, we best get sight and kpowledge through this me- dium and come thus to our best under- standing of any sympathy with our.kind. It is true in literature as in painting, that which Browning makes Fra Lippo Lippi say: X We're s0 made that we love First when we see them painted, things we have passed Perhaps a hundred times. nor cared to see. ® ® % % Artwas given for that; God uses us to help each other so, Lending our minds out. | Nothing, for instance, is doing more to bring about National unity and a recog- nition of race ties in this country than what is called the local fiction which so many American writers are producing to- day.' There is not at present in this coun- | try the field from which to draw material | for a great novel. Our problems are not | yet formulated. Our deepest questions are still individual rather than National, | and we have no “types” in the true seuse | of the word. It would not be possible, in the present stage of our development, to write a story of American life with any | very wide range of application. | T here are among us no crystallized forms | | that any great number of people would repard as typical. What we are wont to | | call types are really characteristics, not having suflicient coherency for sustained purpose in fiction. This factisin itself exceedingly interesting. The character study that is such a pronounced feature of American fiction is worthy to rank as a phase of art. It is, in fact, the most dis- tinctive phase of our literary art, and finds its best exposition 1n the short story, of which American writers are masters. It cannot be called characteristically Ameri- can, this character-study fiction of New England, of the South, of the Middle | ‘West and of the Pacific Slope. Nor has it, thus, far, given us anything really great or lasting. Through it, however, it is very largely that a characteristic National | literature is to be accomplished. It 18 | unifying our Nationa! life by deepening | and unifying the National interest and sympathy. It is painting us pictures that cannot but enlarge our understanding of and quicken our sympathies with the com- posite factors of this Nation, | The hard, barren tragedies of - New England rural life; the fervid, yearning, hungry lives of the Southern mountain- | eers; the simple, sunny, helpless archaism of life among the Louisiana creoles, the bitter, sordid toil, the intellectual and spiritual aspirations rounding existence’s span on the great prairies, the strange, fascinating, vivid characteristics of the Pecific Coast, have come to seem very real | tousand we have been brought into a | | realization of a common life, 8 common aim, though the local literature that has touched us into fellowship with it all. It is not the knowledge of external condi- tion, the hardness, the toil, the bitterness, the helplessness, that has done this, but the tracing of the common hope, the com- mon striving and the common need, through it all, shared by our National brotherhood. What appears to an alien merely as | picturesque or interesting is to us vitally moving, quickening us to love and ra- prochement with our own blood kin. In its vital humanity it is full of hope and promise for that coming American litera- { ture of which it is the forerunner. | | | | Conservativia took me to task the other day. | *“All this ralk about physical culture and | development of muscles is mere fuss and nonsense,” she said. “I am tired to death | of the athletic girl, the walking girl and | servativia is a famous housekeeper. Her home is the pink of perfection. Her win- cows glisten in the sunshine. Her polished floor never shows 2 speck ot dust. Her walls are immaculate. I have seen her wash her dustpan.’ But 1 found out, long ago, that Con- servativia is nearly always tired. She is thin and pale, and shs suffers from in- digestion. She once went with me on a tramp, with disastrous results, but I did not remind her of this. Ionly said, as I tossed ner another cushion, “You look tired.” *Yes,” she replied, wadding up the cushion and thiusting it into a position where it propped her right shoulder for- ward. “But I have founa fatigue an in- evitable result of muscular exertion. I suppose the athletic girl gets tired, now and then. IconfessI am unable to be- lieve that your boasted physical culture is any more useful than good, old-fashioned housework.” I have heard this sort of thing before. There is an idea prevailing among men and women that housework forms an all- sufficient exercise, if only woman would | attempt it. As a matter of fact, according 1o statis- tics, 75 per cent of the women of the United States do their own housework. If this occupation were all the exercise they need we might expect to find them strong, alert, splendid specimens of physi- cal womanhood, but he would be a daring man who ventured to assert that 75 per cent of our American women are even fairly well developed, physically. They make a poor showing as compared with their English and German sisters, who have the training that the gymnasiom or active out-of-door exercise can give. So far from being a thorouch system of physical exercise, housework alone duces more serious ill-development of the body than almost any other occupation except farm labor. Sweeping, scrubbing, dusting, the wip- ing of walls, the cleanine of windows, the family washing, strengthen, harden and develop the muscles of the back and arms, but they do not develop the chest, or promote uprightness of carriage. Sweep- ing, in fact, contracts the chest brings undue strain upon the back and develops the right side at the expense of the left. This last objection is a very serious one, yet the woman who ailowed herself to sweep “left-handed” would be laughed at Thoreau wandered, a solitary, unique figure, is now the lterary background of agroup of writers whom the world reads with delight. John Burroughs, Jef- freys, Olive Thorne - Miller, Maurice and disapproved of by her fellow house- keepers aimost as thoroughly as the pro- verbial crowing hen has always been sup- posed to be in the poultry-yard. Who- ever sweeps for an hour should afterward Wholesome Exercise for the Women Who Do take fifteen minutes of vigorous chest- raising exercise, including deep breathing movements to relieve the strained back muscles and clear the lungs of carpet dust. Nearly all our manual employment is open to the charge of developing usun- symmetrically. The right arm is stronger than the left. The right leg takes a longer stride than the left one. The right shoulder is more rounded; the right hip more prominent. Only the left foot is larger than the right; this because of the greater weight it constantly bears during the superior activities of the right side of the body. The ordinary tasks of housekeeping, while not furnishing in themselves suffi- cient exercise to build up the body, are yet not enough to overtask an ogdinarily well woman. The trouble is that most of our women are not ordinarily well. They go about their work in close rooms. Their employments are such as require much bending over, as well as being of a nature to keep only a few muscles in active use. Buteven if there is an occasional accumu- lation of dust on vpolished floors, if the windows show where cur San Francisco fog has laia salty fingers, and the dust- pan goes scot-free of sapolio. every woman who spends six or seven hours or less in the household rounds should take time for fifteen or twenty minutes bf counteractive drill. It is quite wonderful what even so short a time as this will do toward developing the body in such fashion that such fatigue as most women feel shall no longer be “an inevitable result” of ordinary household work. “There is no kind of achievement you can make in the world,”” says Carlyle, “that equals perf: ¢t health,” and an hour each week rationally employed in physi- cal culture will go far toward helping most women to attain this desirable end. Physical training should begin in the schools and be a part of the child’s daily, unconscious, steady development. This, however, is a truth too recently become patent for most of us women to have been profited by, so we must take ourselves as we are, and do the best we can by our- selves to overcome difficulties. 1 have spoken of the necessity for chest development. A glance at any assembly of women, almost—to our shame be it said —at any assembly of young girls, will re- veal the greatness of this necessity. Of the latter class I shall have more to say at some future time, but at present I am writing for the large army of women who do housework. Some have not, as a rule, access to a gymnasium, nor have they the time to at- tend upon one. Generally, too, would not visit one could they do so. But there are certain simple exercises with which any woman can help herself greatly, and develop surprising results, in the course of & few months. One of these is the exercise I recommended recentiy for strengthening the hands. Stand a foot or two from the wall, press the hands against it, well apart, and lean forward until, with the head thrown well back, the chin touches the wall. Do this four or five times on rising in the morning and repeat they | Housework the exercise at intervals through the day. Stand erect, with the heels together and the weight on the balls of the feet. To | get just the right position walk backward | a few steps and then stop. You will find | yourself in the normal standing position. | This walking backward, let me remark in ‘ passing, is capital training for those who | wish to walk forward gracefully. Now, | standing erect, let vour hands come to ! your sides, the elbows streight and me; palms forward, the little tingers touching the thighs. Keep the elbowsstraight and the body as still ‘as possible, raise the hands straight out from the sides and up- ward until the tips of your thumbs meet above your head. They will probabiy | hunt wildly for each other in midair the first few times of trying, but the sense of | locality will soon develop in your muscles | and you will be able to move them with a | very delicate accuracy. You will find even | this newly acquired muscularintelligence, if one may use such a term, of value to| ou. y-l do not think we half appreciate the | extent of delicate perception to which we might train our bodies, by a little taking thought, making them more perfect in- struments for the use of the spirit within,- often dumb for lack of co-operation on | the part of these unresponsive tissues through which its message must be given or else be hidden. Repeat the raising o your hands as described until the muscles are a little tired, but never push any such | exercises to the point of fatigue. Resta moment, then, standing as before, extend the arms, palms stiti forward, as far out ward and backward as possible. Now you will have a chance to discover what sweep- | 1ng, dusting, stooping and all the rest have done for the muscles of your back and shoulders. You will find your chest bound and your shoulders drawn forward by too-long contracted muscles, while the muscles of the back, habitually extended, have lost much of their power to contract. Ia other words, you are round-shouldered, partly from the nature of the principal forms of exercise you have taken, partly as a result of your own carelessness. But persevere in your exercises for chestex pansion. Practice deep breathing after the man- ner recommended a few weeks ago. Maintain yourself as nearly erect as pos- sible as you go about your work, and hold the head np. There is a moral as well as a physical use in this last exercise. It is the normal attitude of the human creature. If the head is held properly, the body is sure to be. The mere lifting of the head is often eaough to lighten depression and muscular weariness and bring about a mental poise which is almost certain to reael upon the body. Like all other facts in psycho-physics, this one may be pushed to the extreme of literal interpretation, and tbhus made to do mischief, but there is enough truth in it to make it, when ration- ally applied, a useful factor in physica culture. I am aware that the hints given in this paper will seem to many too sumple to be worthy of attention, but their very simplicity, when the results they are able to accomplish are considered, makes them FOR MEN JailorsNowMake Suits to Hang Lioosely - The colored shirt will be worn ali this winter, but will not be as flamboyant as in other seasons. ‘‘Him’' remarks concern- ing such shirts: It is very usetul and I think it is mostartistic for morning wear. One needs, however, a bit of variation from the strict sketches in black and white. The fashions for the seasoms to come point to either the solid color in dark blues, drabs or lavenders, or again the sprigged and figured white, which always has a neat ef- fect. Englishmen carry the wearing of colored shirts to a point a little beyond the rules of eti- quette, especially when 1n this country. They regard us as the colonies and the upper mid- dle class has a mistaken notion of our igno- rance and they believe that we will accept anything, This authority comments on the iact that on the Thames the many-hued blazer is as conspicuous as that unbecoming Cummerbred, and adds that ‘‘even in the very hot season which the United States has suffered [ did not see a single individ- ual decked out in this style. We are more partial to the straw hat, and our straws are in much bstter form than those one sees in England.” Many Americans who have had suits built for them in London have complained that they fitted and hung too loosely, but now the best tailors in America are adopt- inz this style, with modifications, the re- sults being excellent, especially for large and big-jointed men. Concerning sack coats, they have three buttons, are single-breasted and round away gradually in front. Coats from Lon- fdon have even the flaps of the pockets rounded. The coat is as nearly straight as possible, and the shoulders must be square. The trousers for such suits are loose and straight at the top avd taper toward the foot. It is said: Fancy trousers, which are worn with black frock coats, are made of cashmere. The pat- terns are in stripes, in dark grays and blues. I haye seen a number of black and white plaids and & fow checks, but the stripe remains in favor. The trousers are cut about 1914 in the knee and 18 bottom. They are wide, but have no spring. Ditto trousers of cheviots and tweeds and shepherds’ plaids, to be worn with coat of same color and material, for morning suits, are cut perhaps a little wider, Knickers are made very full and baggy at the knee, and without the leather extensions with which they were formerly arranged. T'he cold morning bath has gone entirely out of fashion, even in England, as the leading physicians are frowning upon it, declaring that it has a tendency to shatter the nerves. So instead the warm bath, which has a soothing effect on the nervous system, is being prescribed. It is reported that we will have to pur- chase all our golf stockings in future, our sisters, cousins, ete., being too busy knit- ting their own to bestow any more on us. C. C. Ghina at Half Price! Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday only, 150 Dozen Fine Thin Hand-decorated China Teacups and BSaucers, regularly 35, 40 and 50 cents, go at 20 CENTS. 175 dozen China Butter Plates, deco- rated in colors and gold, reg- ularly 60c, go at 30c per dozen, 65 pair Buear Bowls and Cream Pitch- ers, regularly 65¢c, go at 35¢ per pair. 125 Cream Pitchers, reg- ularly 20c and 25¢, go at 10c gz each. THAT BIG CHINA STORE— : 4 Quarter of a Block: Below Shrevs's. WANGENHEIM, STERNHEIM & CO. 528 and 530 Market St., 27 and 29 Sutter St., BELOW MONTGOMERY, soosssssssesse $75m4 ROOMS CONSISTING OF FURNITURE PARLOR,BECROOM, DINING-ROOM, KITCHEN EASY PAYMENTS. Tapestry Brussels, per yard. 0il Cloth, per yard Matting, per yard Solid Oak Bed Suit, 7 pieces Solid Oak Folding Bed, with T. BRILLIANT, 410 POST ST.,above Powell OPEN EVENINGS Four-Room Catalogues Malled Free. (0" Free Packing and Delivery across the Bage Mirror makes the whole fam- ily happy. Send Sve two-cent stamps for ‘WOMANKIND three months and receive FREE the Woman- kind Cook Book, filled with tested recipes of practical housekeepers. You'll like the paper. It's able, bright and clean. Address, WOMANKIND, MENTION THIS PAPER. 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