The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, September 6, 1896, Page 29

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, -SEPTEMBER 6, 1896. 29 WHAT FASHION DECLARES For the Princess of Wales The dress illusirated with the long coat has just been completed for the Princess Qi Wales by a leading London tailor and is'a model well worthy of the considera- tion of every slender woman, as the style !eaves nothing to be desired, being perfect in every detail. Among the points to be noted are the very small revers, the three buttons at iong intervals, the small cuffs, with two medium-sized buttons, the posi- tion and size of the pocket, the véry mod- erate sleeves and :the comparatively nar- row skirt. The material employed is a superfine steel gray cloth, This style re- calls the mode of three years ago, and yet it differs in several radical points. The other tailor gown is a combination of dark brown melton, with a vest of creamy white cloth embroidered in three shades of brown silk intermixed with gold. The lining 1s of a brownish golden silk. All such gowns will have this winter much rich braiding, not only on the vests, but on the skirts as well. and the vests are to be of velvet; heavy brocade cloth will never be seen excepting when very elab- orately and beautifully adorned with em- broidery or braid, as the plain skirt and a jacket can only now be donned when the wearer starts on a shopping tour. 'The elaboration and beautification of the tailor suit was anticipated by those who keenly watch fashion changes, as the moment it became quite the thing to wear handsome bats and toques with such costumes it naturally followed that to be strictly in keeping they must become more orna- mental. Let us hope that foolish exag- gerations will not drive one of the most satisfactory of gowns out of existence, for if discretion is exercised there is no reason why the results should not be quite de- lightful, as its usefulness can be greatly increased by the use of not only the most lovely of vests, but also of those as simple and unornamental as possible, and for the slender and the plump woman as well no more desirable style has ever been evolved. The other design conveys an excellent idea of one of the latest Parisian crea- tions. It is decidedly chic, being of black crepe de soie over a rich black taffeta silk. The bodice is covered with paillette black tulle and with encrustations of white lace. The chaveau with the lofty plumes is from one of the best known millinersin France, and we are assured that this ar- rangement of feathers is to be much seen in the immediate future. Ican but won- der if our fashions will ever appear as ab- surd to us as those of 1882 now do. One of the swellest tailor gowns de- signed for some time makes a dark-eyed belle a trifle more charming than ever. It is composed of a dark green melton cloth. The bodice has a vest of tomato red cloth, covered with the finest black braiding, and from this vest arises an upper part of creamy white cloth, over which turns a pretty collar of red cloth edged with black braid. The costume is lined with glece tomato red silk. Every one wants a tailor dress for win- ter, 2o I bave no fear of describing too many, and a traveling toilette of blue and green shot homespun, having a Tatter- sall vest 1n vicuna color, with appliques of green leather outlined by gola braid, is especially successiul, as is also a hand- some one of boxcloth in Hussar blue. The cuffs and waistcoat are of light blue- gray cloth covered by braidings in blue, gold and fawn and bordered by a narrow line of brown mink fur, the braiding and fur trimming being repeated on the skirt by little godets imserted at either side of the skirt. The lining throughout is of white chine silk striped with blue. Blue cloth in every dark shaae is to be stylish this season, especially when richiy braided and used in combination with gray or white cloth. Unquestionably braiding is to be a great feature of all cloth dresses, sewn on in straight rows or in rows put on in a fanciful design. Also extremely chic are the tailor frocks which have just appeared in London, made in jacket and skirt form of smooth cloth to be worn with smart little plald waistcoats. With tailor gowns belts of both green and red leathers are to be worn during the early autumn, red being the most fashion- able. The green must be of a bright shade. Yachting dresses continue to be an in- teresting topic of conversation and dark lue flannel with a lighter blue line run- ning through it is enjoying a great vogue, and-is certainly a welcome change after plain dark blue serge, and besides it will look well for quite as long a time and has u smart appearance when worn with shirts and belts of almost every color. During Cowes week many were the excellent yachting costumes commented on. One fair Archduchess wore white serge and a white sailor hat. The Countess of Annes- ley is said to bave looked charming in a cream serge gown with a short dress coat, the collar revers of which were outlined with cream and gold braid, which was carried up the seams at the back of the bodice; a vest of pale green silk and a hat of white manilla straw trimmed with cream ribbons completed this costume. Much liked was a dréss of navy blue serge; the short coatee, uniquely cut, has the revers outlined in gold cord, showing a sash of pale dull green silk, of which the vest was also made. A creation of royal blue canvas had a zonave bodice which was emvroidered in waved lines of white cable stitch and re- vealed a soft blouse of white silk encrusted with lace. With it was worn a sailor hat of white straw with blue burgee ribbon. A pretty French woman wore cream serge with a vest of soft rose pink silk and a hat of eream rush straw, and trimmed with a ruche of pink silk and black quills. A white mohair toilet with a white silk vest embroidered in jet was noted, and a hand- csome blue serge was lined with heavy watered moire silk, the revers and collar of the jaunty jacket being of this silk out- Jined with siiver braid. The Empress Eugenie was a guest on board the Thistie and is reported to have worn a blue serge suit, a vest of white silk and a dark Dblue straw hat with bur- gee ribbon. Most of us think of this un- fortunate woman as quite unable to take any further interest in worldly affairs and to think of her going to a boatrace! Styles in riding babits will not change much this fall, the best tailors never having made them with large sleeves. Gray will be the favorite color, although many mixed materials will also be em- ployed; one such mixture has its dnrk! tones brightened by lighter ones. The | basques are not quite as long as those | made at this time last year. Plain clotbs | will be as much used as eger. Black lace, as I predicted, will be fash- ionable this winter and many gowns will be eyolved out of black satin and cld lace and long-since banished shawis will all be put into active service, as they can be | draped by a clever woman very satisfac- torily over our skirts, but to begin with the skirt must hang to perfection. Pale tan gloves are being much worn with white evening frocks in Eurove, and | such gowns have no sleeves at all; in many cases only bands passing over the | shoulders hold up the bodice. When smart women, however, do wear sleeves they are ludicrously small in comparison to those so lately in vogue. In New York are being worn very be- coming black satin stos over which turn little white coilars half an inch wide. The stocks have buttons on the inside, which perfectly hold the collars in place. Snch stocks cost $1 25 and the collar 25| cents. | Another collar, usually made of white linen, has five odd diamond-shaped bulges | about an inch in length under which is run a satin ribbon, which ties in a bow in THEPRINCES® the back. This siyle is very fashionable. An English correspondent states that all the interest of the royal box at the | opera the other night was centered on the | Duchess of Marlborough, who looked very | charming and girlish in a white satin gown relieved with superb jewel There is no doubt that the American giris have made the sensation of this season, | Miss Winslow and Miss Scott being greatly feted, while the Hon. Mrs. Eaton | (nee French) and Lady Naylor Lyland | have taken a firm hold -on tke British affections.” I am certain many will thoroughly ap- preciate the excellent remarks made by a correspondent to Vogue. She writes: “The sine qua non of smart dressing is the gift of imagination. Women whose dowdiness and bad taste so frequently dis- tress us give sufficient proof of their lack of that precious quality. All the successful men and women gown-makers and fashion [ purveyors who succeed best, and are fore- mostin theirline, possess the finest, truest sense of that power to conceive and create, without which they would never have been heard of, but have fallen among the countless numbers of incompetents. “Have we not often in our lives known women whose incomes enabled them to order the choicest creations from famous | makers, either at home or abroad. but who in the wearing of them made so many fatal additions of their own that the toilet was utterly ruined and would have been unrecognizable to the maker. Such women suffer from a plethoric and ill- | regulated imagination, which is quite as disastrous as to be born without any. Their ruling passion is to over-elaborate, to pile on laces upon laces, ribbons upon ribbong, to overflow with trimmings galore. Their mildest sins are to wear the wrong jewels, or too many of them, or to peck themselves with the most incon- gruous flowers, *In contrast, observe the man or woman vhose imagination is well balanced in all its parts, both harmonious and faultless. He or she will, even upon the most limited | H expenditure, exceed all others in obtaining the best of results and raining the most pleasing effects. conditions and circumstances is supreme evidence of the aid of imagination in form- ing and directing good taste, independent of lavish outlay, the latter being the world’s generally accepted interpretation of being well dressed. Happy is the woman who possesses this gift, this temperament, for she may always prove herself irresistible under whatever change of fortune.” Lace doylies are preferred to all others by my hostesses, and we hear not only of the finest Honiton lace being used but of point lace as well. Drawn work and TFASHIONABIE ToILElgS lace are frequently seen in combination. White linen beaura strips embroidered in silver are always useful, and' one hav- ing a border of exquisitely shaded pink fuchsias, with their green leaves, is very dainty. I nave read of another for a room 'in which there is a brass’ bedstead and brass furnishings. It is worked in an artistic snade of brass gold, the pattern is described as a metallic one. Art satin and even art sateen is employed. To be smart under these | 1 Propefic. Attire for Dri\i_ir\g Now that San Franciscans are paying more attention to their equipages and their appointments, they might with profit direct their criticisms to the inap- propriate costumes worn only too fre- | quently by the fair occupants. One author- | ity writes: The various classes and conditions of life are well represented in the great vari- | ety ot vehicles manufactured, and each one should be occupied 1n a fitting and be- | coming way. The toilette of the occu- pants should conform with the carriage | they are seated 1n, and discussion of this | matter is the subject in band. Coachirg, as we know, has its full dress and its toilette de voyage. A drag has also its'grande et petite tenue. A victoria demands smart dressing from top to toe. No other vehicle has been built to show off to such advantage a prettily dressed woman. Landaus and cabriolets are cere- monious structures; they require fine toileites, and never fail to do justice to them. Much less imposing are park phaetons, consequently one should dress with less exiravagance in them. Basket-wagons, wagonettes, runabouts, are very unpre- tentious, and require modest but as smart- as-you-please dressing. Anything loud or voyante stumps tbe occupants as vul- garians. Surreys and carryalls are sabstantial, unobtrusive family carrriages, which pre- sent a pleasing picture of family comtort when filled with young and old dressed with taste and fitness. Remember that carriages built of oak require jaunty demi-toilettes, never cere- monious ones, and in accepting invitations for a drive one should consider the equip- | ages of the person extending the invitation and be governed by them 1n dressing for the occasion. To appear overdressed in a friend's simple carriage is in as bad taste as to be carelessly or shabbily garbed when invited to occupy a perfectly appointed Victoria. The same correspondent adds: “It has always been one of my convictions that women view their carriages from an almost entirely utilitarian point of view and rarely from an artistic one,” and yet she has just been visiting one of the most fashionable watering places not very far from New York watching the passing show of an afternoon drive. At this fash- ionabie resort fetching Mrs. G. L. 8. ap- peared in a Paquin creation thus described: The gown was a straw-color grenadine, built over lizard-green and straw-color shot taffeta. Skirt separate, trimmed on the bottom with an entre-deux of Lissierre plisse bodice fitted over white silk, and | sleeveless, was worn under a ravissante bolero, built with folds of grenadine. Three folds formed the upper part, and | three more the lower, separated by a broad Lissiere i. New model insertion. sleeves outlining the arm, and over the bouffant tops were epaulets of three bias folds lined with shot silk. which stood out very prettily. The corselet was exceed- ingly effective; and of black velvet, beauti- | fully fitted in the back. But the fronts | were cut into three straps each, and these straps were drawn into a point and met under three large jeweled buttons in front in pairs. Neckband of black velvet, with lace ruff above, and two wired loops of velvet curled over at each side. White tulle beret ruched round the front with black Chantilly, and trimmed at the left side with two slender paradis noirs os- preys curling outward. Last year about thistime I spoke of how many women East were learning how to knit golf and bicycle stockings. 1ndeed, it was, and still is, quite a fad East, butI know of but few here who knit stockings for such purposes, and, indeed, the fancy tops require some considerable knowledge of that old-fashioned accomplishment, in which, until quite recently, only grand- mothers and old maids were supposed to indulge. MARCELLA. The Color of Mary's Hair. The exact tint of the Scottish Queen’'s bair has been alwaysa vexed subject of | discassion. Some give it an unmitigated red, Michelet, for instance, who so far forgets him'self and history as to call the poor lady a great red camel; others, siding with chivalrous Sir Walter, boldly endow their martyred Queen and mistress with rich dark-brown tresses. It should not be forgotten, however, that red hair, even modest auburn, suffered a severe eclipse during the early years of our century, whereas, under the Valois no one with any Ppretensionsto elegance could be seen wear- ing it black. In this particular, at least, Mary Stuart must have had the advantage of Queen Margot,who inherited her father’s dark coloring, and was reduced to dissem- blg nature's shortcomings by the perru- quier’s art. \ We are told of three gigantic blonde la_ckeys kept in her service, and brought to the shears as regularly as sheep. Bran- tome, indeed, protests that his incompar- able princess could carry with grace ‘‘even her natural black hair, twisted and plaited a I'Espagnol, as she sometimes wore it, in imitation of her sister, the Queen of Spain.” But no such need of insistence, one feels, when he comes to praise the curled golden tresses of the Scottish Queen. **Alas!” he cries, “what profanation was that at the dread ful moment of her death when the barbarous executioner snatched her bonner, and there lay revealed those same fair locks, now whitened, thin and wintry, and which her friends of France had so often seen to admire, curled and adorned as befitted their beauty and the Queen they graced.”—Macmillan's. | Discard” and “Reverse Discard.” In our whist article of May 31 last we pub- lished a very interesting letter from Major- best writers on the game living. He mentioned in that letter that the ‘‘Reverse Discard” was first played by him in 1880. There is no doubt in my mind that the Drayson system of dis- carding is the best that is known up to the present time, without it is the system advo- cated by the writer and pubiished in Whist in the January number, 1895. As the whist- playing season is now upon us it is time for every whist team in every club to adopt sys- tems of play that will be understood by the members of each team at least, Drayson says. During the last few years I have found sev- eral fairly good players who are somewhat puzzled occasionally as to the discard. When trumps have neither been led nor called for by the adversaries, the discard should be from the weakest suit. It has been suggested that when trumps are declared against you the dis- card shoald, be from your strongest suit. This in theory is simple, in practice it is sometimes difficult. Here is an example. I hold one trump, the six. My rightadversary leads the three, I play my six, third hand plays nine, my partner wins with ten and returns the kuave, my right adversary plays king on knave, and I huve to discard. Am I to assume that trumps are declared against me and con- sequently to discard from my strong suit, or am I to conclude that by my partner’s return- ing trumps they were declared in my favor? ‘Whatever conclusion I may come to, and act in accoraance therewith, my partner may form a different opinion, and there is at once a mis- understanding between us; he may think my strong suit is my weak, and vice versa. To avoid any such confusion, I have long ago adopted the rule to discard from my strongest suit to my adversaries’ lead of trumps, but | from my weakestsuit from my partner’s lead of trumpe; hence, if my right adversary iead a trump, and my partner win this and (feturn the trump, and I have to discard, I then throw away from my weakest suit to my partner's lead of trumps. Because my right sdversary commenced the lead of trump, it does not fol- low, if my partner return them, that trumps are declared against me; consequently, to discard from my strongest suit would not only be puzzling, but might be wrong. Dis- card from the strongest sult to the adversaries’ lead of trumps, and from your weakest suit to your partner’s lead of trumps, prevents any mistake as 10 whieh is your strongest suit. The Reverse Discard. The object of the reverse discard is to enable aplayer to alweys be able to discard to the best advantage of his hand, whether from his best or poorest suit; trumps, declared against you or not, at the same time tell his partner as trathfully as though he showea his hand. To accomplish this result discard a high then a lower card of the same suit, thus reversing the order of the discard and, of course, reversing the meaning of the special diseard. Here is an example. You hold ace, king, jack and three little diamonds.. You have not had the lead and could mot indicate your strength in adiamonds. Your partner being strong in trumps exhausts them. You holding only two trumps with your six diamonds you are compelled to discard two diamonds. | Your first discard of s diamond tells your General A. W. Drayson of England. one of the | | partner it is your weakest suit, but when you | | made your second discard, and it is lower than the first, yousay Ireverse the meaning, my | | first diseard says it was my poorest suit, my second says no, it is my best. It mustbe | borne in mind that the “reverse” should be | played only when no other suit can be dis- | carded or when the difcard of any other suit entails the certain loss of & trick. The fifth editon of “The Art of Practical Whist,” by Major-General Drayson, gives this play in de- tail. WHISTLETS. The Trist Duplicate Whist Club started their fall and wigter schedule of play last Tuesday | evening in their rooms, in the Wenban build- “ ing, by giving a reception. It was not pos- | sible To accommodate more than two-thirds | of those that were in attendance, for | the rooms were more than packed. It| shows the popularity that whist has with the people. James Foord, President | of the Los Angeles Whist Club, and his wife | came from Los Angeles to be present. Mrs. L. W. Sitton, president of the Kate Wheelock | Club’ of Portland, Or., and George E. Bates, | president of the San Franeisco Club, and Mrs. | Bates were also present. The entire affair was under the charge of the house committee—Mrs. Fredericks, Mrs Myers and Mrs. Wpodward. Two hours was spent at the silent game. The spice of the evening was a deal that was put into play that came from the last whist con- gress, It was the second hand that was ever played by Cavendish, Trist, Whitfield and | Weems in this country. The identical cards | they used and the positions in which they played were a feature of the entertainment. The deal was as follows: 3,6, 4 &1 S0ts 7.8 *—Q.6,5 0—Q. 8 q.9.2 |y B[ Q143 S—AK,10,3,2 74 o6 s k0 9, 8,7 —K, J, 9,7,5,8,2 Six club trumps, East to lead. Robert H. Weems played South, N. B. Trist played West, W. H. Whitfeld played North, Cavendish played East, and the play was as follows. The winning card is underscored. TRICKS. BOUTH.| WEST. | NORTH.| EAST. 4aa | A& 6A | K& The legitimate number of tricks that North | and South should mske is 4 and East and West 9. Fifteen tables played thisdeal. North and Soutir at five tables made only 3 tricks, North and South at another five tables made 4 tricks, two others 5 tricks; one table 7, one table 8 and one table 9. East and West players of course made the opposite scores: Five, 10 tricks: five, 9 tricks; two, 8 tricks; one, 6 tricks; one, 5 tricks, and one 4. It don’t seem possible thatin such a hand there could be such a variance in the play. We will send & copy of Milton C: Work’s “Whist of To-day” to the first one who sends us the play of this deal where nine can be made North and South, double dummy or any other way. The proceedings of the sixth American Whist Congress, held in Brooklyn, N. Y., June 23 t0 29, 1896, has just been issued by the recording secretary of the league, B. D. Krib- ben. This yolume ,contains a record of every- | thing that took place at the congress and the scores of all contests are given. It is the first time in the history of the league that the pro- ceedings were in print so soon after adjourn- ment of the congress. Mr. Kribben deserves the thanks of all whisters. Copies can be had by ordering them ot B. L. Richards, treasurer, American Whist League, Rock Rapids, Iowa, or whist editor of THE CALL. Revision of the Code of Liaws. Before the adjournment of the sixth Whist Congress, just held in Brooklyn, the newly elected president. of the® American Whist League, Mr. Walter H. Barney, of Prowdence, R. I. announced a standing committee to re- port on the revision of the code -of laws gov- erning all whist play, both streight and dupli- cate. in clubs belonging to the league. The code of laws adopted by the third Whist Con- gress have never been revised, and it is to be hoped that the revision that will take place at the next congress will'be the only one for many years to come. The Trist Duplicate Whist Club of this City has been honored with the appointment of the chairman of this com- mittee, 1n the person of P. J. Tormey. The fol- lowing are the balance of the committee: Cassius M. Paine, editor of Whist of Mil- ‘waukee, Wis., Robert H. Weems of Brooklyn, Irving T. Hartz of Chicago and Gustavus Remak of Philadelphia. The Oakland Whist Club has withdrawn its challenge for the Rideout trophy, leaving the way clear for the Vallejo Club to have their game at the earliest date possible. The Vallejo Whist Club plays its next match next Saturday, September 12, instead of the 19th, against the San Francisco club. President R. B. Calley of the Linda Vista Whist Club of Linda Vista Terrace, Oakland, entertained Mrs. L. W. Sutton, president of the Kate Wheelock Clud of Portland, Or., last Wednesday evening at the spaclous rooms of the Oakland Whist Club. The play for the ladies’ trophy held in the San Francisco Club rooms last week resulted in & victory for the team composed of Mrs. Bates, Mrs. Schell, Miss 8. Jenkins and Miss Baldwin’ As they have now won the trophy twice they Score: N, andS.4,E.and W.9, cannot play together as a team in future con- | tests. MEN AND WOMEN MUST WEAR What [s Correct for Men Covert coats, made of Venetian cloth, finished with a broad back and cut very loose, are popular in New York. A broad band is placed down the center of the back, and the cuffs are finished with the same styie of stitching. They have a breast pocket only and no lining. A method has been discovered of rendering them waterproof by the use of an acid. ‘White waistcoats are always correct with evening dress, but should not be worn with a Tuxedo coat. The latter is not good form on any except informal occa- sions after candle-light. Even when ac- companied by ladies a white waistcoat may not only be worn at the theater but at the opera as well. Black satin ties should be worn with Tuxedo coats, and or informal occasions with evening dress. Black silk ties are only worn when in mourning. Black silk hose must always be worn with evening dress and with pumps. Many like Balbriggan hose, and at pres- ent they are to be had in an extremely fine quality. Black silk or lisle thread with colored figures are worn with afternoon dress; gray and brown, solid colors, or silk checked with white figures, which some people rather like, Handkerchiefs remain plain and have narrow borders or hems and initials in white silk are in demand. Colored or colored bordered handkerchiefs are very common. b Some do not seem to realize that shoes with pointed toes ceased to be fashionable about four seasons ago, those with rounded toes having taken their place. A man lately inquired which is the correct way of arranging the hair and .received this reply: x Either in a straight part in the middle, or a side part on the left, about two inches from the midale. Long hair is affecfd only by very young persons and college youths who imagine that at this season they will be taken for members of a football team. When two men are driving and pass a lady who bows to the whip, he should salute with his whip and his companion should raise his hat. No gentlewoman shonld bow a second time to a man whom she recognizes on the street who merely touches but does not raise his hat. Requests for information concerning frockcoats are numerous, so I quote a full description: THE FrocK—The frock coat, which is-the proper garment to wear at afternoon weddings, teas, luncheons and &t garden parties in town in the season in London and in Paris, but which has been somewhat superseded by the lounge syit in midsummer, with morning coat, has developed into a very shapely if réctangu- lar affair. The very full long skirts of the past two years have been discarded. There isno attempt to copy the fashions of our grand- fathers. The most popular frock coat is made of black, dull surface cloth, with a slrght twill, It is double-breasted, three buttons. The lapels are pointed, and in width are about two inches wide at the bottom and about two and a quarter at the top. It is usually finished with silk facings to the ends of holes, There are, of course, no outside pockets. In length it is about forty-two inches, coming to just a little below the knee. It is cut squarein the skirts, and the shoulders are broad. English tailors are even making frock coats shorter than this description given. I have seen it stated by an observing correspondent that many do not reach to the knee, but we have not arrived at that fashion in America as yet. C. C. Kreiger’s Millinery Opening. Imported fall and winter hats, the latest novelties, most fashionable millinery goods. Opening Tuesday, September 8, and following days. 1010 Market sireet. > ———— The total income of the Church of Eng- land is about £200,000 a week. NEW TO-DAY. el Tumblers umbl Store closed on Tuesday and Wednes- day this week. Therefore until Satur- day night our fine, thin $1.00 Water Glasses. prettily enaraved. oo at GO cents per do=en. Claret or Soda l'umblers to mateh, same price. INTOt the light, flimsy sruff that is sold so cheaply (?), but first quality Tumblers made of pure lead giass. A large, complete Dinner Set of 115 pieces Meakin’s famous Royal Decor- ated Semi-Porcelain, formerly $16.50, now $12.00. That’s a sample of ths way we are reducing our overstock of Dinner Sets. THAT BIG CHINA STORE— A Quarter of a Block Below Shreve's. WANGENHEIM, STERNHEIM & CO 528 and 530 Market St., 27 and 29 Sutter St., BELOW MONTGOMERY. makes the whole fam- ily happy. Send five two-cent stamps for ‘WOMANKIND three months and receive FREE the Woman- kind Cook Book, filled with tested recipes of practical housekeepers. You'll like the paper. It's able, bright and clean. Address, WOMANKIND, wenmion This paven. Springfield, Ohio. 1170MaRKET.ST, L 0 R eRTHE Maze) Room 28 9 EMOVES SUPERFLUOUS HAIR BY ELEC- trieity at §1 a sitting; first sitting free; no scars left; moles, warts, etc., also removed,