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30 THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, MAY 10, 1896. VERY one is now on the wing, an unusual number bhaving al- ready flown toward Europe. All the fashionable resorts will be well patronized and from indica- tions I should say that we may anticipate & gay summer, and certainly I hope for | one on account of the number of pretty girls, who so enjoy having a good time. And what trunks full of lovely gowns will accompany many of them, but few are provided with less than a dozen fetching | toilettes for the summer’s campaign. Many of these are simple and inexpensive enough, but very charming, bearing wit- ness to the fact that our women have more than their share of taste and a very cor- | rect eye for the beautiful. Polo at Burlingame? Well, I do not know whether I will see that game on Sat- urday or not, but it will be a good game and well played, I am quite certain, and the gowns of many of the women will be smart enough to warrant more than a passing glance, provided frequent showers are not predicted. On Tuesday next one of the fairest and sweetest maidens in California will be- come a bride. Much will probably be written about the quiet home weading, which will be witnessed by but twenty-five in all, and the beauty and number of the wedding gifts will form the principal topic for many a chat, but for my part I have nothinz to say excepting that all who know both bride and groom consider that they should be equally congratulated. There is to be a pretty wedding here in June, and still luncheons continue to be be given of an elaborate nature, but by the end of this month most of us will be | off in search of sunshine and freckl Some will don bloomers and go on bic cling tours, and others will examine the guns and fishing tackle, «s not a few of | our women are excellent shots and expert | anglers. In fact, I must myself confess that a fishing-rod has a great fascination for me, so you may in the near future hear from me something about sporting cos- tumes. A fetching bicycle suit has just been de- signed by Falk, it1s a very coarse weave of brown, linen duck. The short skirtis | very plain only having six lines of stitch- | ing round the bottom. The pretty little coat is fancifully cut and has a_broad col- | lar, revers, and cuff pointsof ecru linen | duck. The coat is adorned with brown | braiding and dark brownish pearl buttons. A shirt waist is, of course, worn, a smart belt and tie, but in conclusion I must not forget to tell you that “the special feature | of the skirt is the shaping of the under- neath back breadths to fit the saddle and wheel frame in such a manner as_to allow | the overlaying plaits to hang straight from the skirt belt without a break at the sad- ¢ ile.” The fad of having the bicycle and cos- tume all match is increasing in favor, and one especially stylish one is in hunters’ | green picked out with ecru; the fair rider | wore a tailor-made costame of dark green cloth and an ecru linen shirt. A correspondent writes to Vogue asking | for information concerning the number | and material of gowns necessary for a summer at a seaside hotel, and in T told to have a tailor-made gown of homespun or tweed. with a plain s a jacket bodice, which can be worr over shirt waists. A mobair dress, in a becom- | ing dark shade, also tailor made, is aimost & necessity, as it is cool and sheds the dust.” For afternoon wear a giace taffeta is suggested, the bodice to be elab trimmed, and for the same purpose solutely required a grenadine creation, which can be worn as a §eneral visiting gown, in afternoon teas and for church. Several fancy silk bodices, some cut high and others low, will do to wear, some of them with the grenadine skirt, others with the well-made black or light silk skirts, which every woman who goes out atall is supposed toown. A dozen per- fectly fitt shirt waists are necessities, | and they can be worn with a white mohair | or pique skirts on bright days, and on dull ones a dark skirt is prefera! A useful dress is of “white or colored duck cress, barred and tailor-made, with a skirt and blazer.” “A flowered batiste with a lace stri made over silk, with lace and ribbons, cannot well be dispensed with, and if a satin gingham and a dainty dimity added one can manage, provided one does | not indulge in yachting, golfing, tennis, | etc., as in such’ cases suitable costures must be worn. As far as wraps are concerned Vogue | says that only a “mackintosh, a covert | jacket, a goli cape and a fancy cape will be | needed.”’”” Then my lady must have for | APBSY | carried up to a yoke made of blue chiffon | small bunches of roses over it, as it were, {a dress described as truly picturesque. ! silk of the old Fragonard rose tint, with | is also provided with every comfort loving | in tiny pink rose buds; bands of insertion Alexandra have scarcely died away, and | already we have full descriptions of her charming gowns. The evening toilets are the most interesting; an exquisite one of | light blue has a skirt of moired aurore, and, as the name implies, itis of a pale blue, which is shot with a tender rosy pink, in some lights, and in others with a golden hue. The body of the same silk is veiled with light blue chiffon, which is puffs aivided by little vars of ecru inser- tion. The sleeves are each formed of four blue chiffon puffs. Another costume of pale blue satin is a la Lonis Seize, with interrupting gleaming lines of silver pail- lettes that diversify the skirt. More of these delicate silver lines are seen on the bodice, and each of them terminates at the berthe, with a small embroidered rose that is almost imbedded in the puffs of blue chiffon, of which the sleeves are also made. with little satin turrets worked with silver and roses over the tops of them. A rose-tinted satin has silvery stripes of moire woven into it, which is a chic nov- elty, and a pink corded silk, shot with white and pale green has a graceful floral design all over it. Yet another pink con- fection is of a shot chine silk, and has a sort of Eton coat bodice, with a white cnffon furet, over which is some filmy beurre lace. A white velours soie (a beau- tiful fabric) has interwoven pale gray- green velvet stripes. At the Coburg fetes the bride wore The skirt is of arich rose glace sick, all over flowers of a chine description, with a full but narrow rache of the®ame all round the bottom. So greatly does the Princess prefer abso- lutely plain skirts that this is the only one of her skirts so adorned. The bodice is of the Louis Quinze style, and it is of rich the ioveliest white lace appliqued upon it, not in the usual way. hut the lace flowers and foliage are unconnected by any mesh and made for the exact places they occupy on both sides of the revers, the deep cuffs, vockets and the basque, which like the entire coat 1s lined with pale canary satin. The front 1sof the same satin, and there is a little lace cravat. What a lucky Princess, to have so many beautiful frocks. She has dozens of them, but not one black dress: a very pale green is her favorite color, which is seen in several of her tea gowns, one of maize and white is said to be “‘indescribably dainty.”” Atexandra has an abundance of every- day frocks for all seasons and ail occa- sions. Numerous are the mohair and cloth dresses, all of which are lined with shot silks in contrasting colors. Her gowns of grass linen are all silk-lined, the lining matching either the figures or stripes em- broidered on the linen or are of the same tone as the linen. The Princess’ mother has wisely seen that her daughter foresight can provide, as numerons are also her robes de chambre and petticoats of the delightful Zenana fabric, which is crinkled sirk above and the softest of wool beneath. There are also silk, woolen and cambric neglizees galore. Her mantles and cloaks are not numer- ous, but show much sense in the selection. A military-looking coat is of fawn cloth, trimmed with silk soutache of the same shade, and an ecru lace shoulder-cape is over pink accordion-pleated chiffon and has a pink chiffon ruche round the neck. Thelingerie is exquisitely fine, real torchon and Valenciennes lace trimming predomi- nating. Boote, shoes and slippers of every de- scription (quite numerous enough to stock a small store) will accompany the Princess to her new home. There are riding boots of the newest cut and strong leathern walking boots, Besides there are red kid shoes with gold studs and bronze shoes with studs to match. Cromwell shoes in tan with large bronze buckles and stylish kid shoes for practical wear. All these boots, etc., have round toes and moderate heels. A chic froc for Monterey is of a willow- green taffeta embroidered with flowers of lighter shade. The bodice is covered ith the sheerest grass linen embroidered allow pale green silk to show. Another lovely confection is also of grass tinen of the finest quality. It is entirely lined, with a silk which changes from mauve A LOVELY TEA GOWN. traveling a toque, a black picture hat and a very dressy one especially designed to be worn with the grenadine. ‘‘one or two bonnets und a earden hat (a Leghorn.)” In conclusion she is advised to have a black silk petticoat much frilled and wired, as well as one of white silk. Of course morreen can be substituted. Such petti- coats are absolute necessities as our skirts shounld hsve a certain flare. An abundant supply of slippers, boots, shoes, glovesand lingerie will take one comfortably through a s2ason. The echoes of the wedding bells an- nouncing the marriageof the Frincess to crimson. The bodice is a ‘work of art, { being covered with embroidery of a cash- | merian design, in which several colors blend beautifully. A hat of green straw, trimmed with California violets and green tulle is most becoming. _Then if you want one of the dearest little frocks of this same popular fabric vurchase thirteen yards from one of our ;leadinfi stores of the semi-transparent grass linen embroidered all over with | silken viclets and long green stems. You | can bave either very pale violets or those | of a dark hue, according as you desire to | bave the lining of mauve or violet silk. Such a dress will be very expensive, but egually lovely. In Paris large quantities of a snow-white grass linen is being used with much suc- cess. For instance, from a celebrated house comes a gown of white glace, sprigged with black. n composed of this silk and the bodice of white glace, over which is the white linen with bands of tambour embroidery run with tiny black velvet baby ribbon. The sleeves are of the same and the bodice and alelevss are finished with a roll of black velvet. A fascinating costume, suitable for many functions, is of a pinkish chine silk, cov- ered with a small blurred figure. The very ample skirt is composed entirely of the silk, and the bodice of creamy white lawn over a pale-pink glace. Thereis a lovely yoke, composed of tucks and fine inser- tion. Then thereis a novel arrangement of two pairs of pink silken scarfs. These start from the waist in front and behind, and are drawn up to the armhole, leaving a free end to fall gracefully over the pretty sleev These scarfs are edged on both sides with three thread-like lines of black velvet ribbon. An extravagant concep- tion, which should not be given much thought except by those who c¢an have The skirt is entirely | | made entirely of chincl tistic_sense, adorned the rich material; long branches were trailing all round the edge of the skirt, while single flowers or small bunches peeped forth among the folds. The satin was in front cut short, and gave the appearance of a high belt, encircling filmy folds of chiffon. "1t was edFed with ruchings of black tulle, a black velvet ribbon round the throat striking the corresponding note. A pointed waist- coat of guipure, epaulettes of spangles, cloud-like chiffon sleeves, and some roses tucked in the corsage gave the finishing touches to this benut.i!nf gown. But the most fascinating costume worn was donned by Mme. Brandesin the first act. It was composed of unbleached lawn over silk of the same tint, The gown was cut to rfection, and the skirt was absolutely plain,' The bodice had a boxpleat” down the front and her waist was encircled with a belt of leather, which exactly matched the lawn, as did also her shoes—sun shade, and at her throat was a most becoming touch of color, the ruche being of rose gmk, which appeared at the throat and cuifs, Her large straw hat was cov- ered with roses, and the satin ribbon in it matched the ruche exactly. Almost as charming was her evening toilette of mignonette green shaded satin, round the low neck of wiich was arranged a fichu of mousseline de soie, lace edged. On the shoulders it was fastened with tufts of rose-pink velvet and bunches of violets. Here ana there on the bodice flashed beautifui rhinestone buttons mounted in copper. n *‘Les Danichefs,” another French play now runaing in Paris, some notable toil- ettes are seen. Madame Tessandier wore, in the Parisian scene, a superb lavender colored of velvet cut a la princess. The large collar with stole-like ends was of velvet and exquisitely embroidered in em- eralds, gold and silver, edged by a tiny frill of lavender chiffon, but at the throat and sleeves was some rare old lace. The lin- ing was of emerald green satin. Another gorgeous robe was of lemon colored velvet. The back of the body was absolutely plain. The front was composed of a loose coat a. It opened on & waistcoat of the velvet richly t_:ovared with go'd and jewels. The narrow jeweled belt, which kept it in place, appeared also at the back. (yn the left side of the skirt was fastened a huge bouquet of Parma violets. Though the dress was decollete the sleeves were long and tightly stretched over thearm. Among some truly lovely trousseau AN AFTERNOON TOILET OF BLUE CANVAS. numerous toilettes. With it goes a true picture hat of pink-shirred tulle, veiled with white. Pink roses form a cache- peigne, and there are three choux of black and pink talle. Can you imagine, for a fair-haired beauty, a creation of pale-green moire shot with a golden shade and adorned with creamy lace which covers the bodice? A dress of blue moire has the water mark followed out with small black spangles. This idea of tracing the water mark on moires with sequins or spangles is a de- cided novelty, and a very effective one. The bodice matches, and is draped with blue tulle, scattered with diamonds. Sleeves have vanished from all French evening gowns which emanate from the best houses. Little puffs of tulle or lace have taken their place, and a bow of rib- bon or a small bunch of flowers is usually added. Light gloves almost reaching the shoulder are worn. Numerous are the demards for Louis Seize gowns, so you can appreciate one of chine silk, which has a white ground cov- ered with red flowers. The bodice is of black satin, the basque is full, and with it is worn an ample fichu of white chiffon, which is bordered with three full frills, and they drape the arm from the elbow of the close-fitting sleeve. A bunch of crimson flowers appears at one side of the bodice, and the lining of this effective gown is of black glace taffeta. A very beautiful Parisian gown is of white moire embroidered with seed pearls on the pattern of the water mark. The low bodice is of white gauze covered with spangles and diamonds. One from the same source for a matron is of black and pink Pekin satin. The bodice is of pink satin veiled with black gauze and finished with black velvet bows. Some of the gowns now being worn in Paris on the boards of the Francais must be truly charming. Mme. Brandes appears in one scene in a gown of yellow cloth over which is a scroll-like design in yellow silk. A ruche and frill of chiffon com- plete the skirt. The ample sleeves of chiffon are built up on.a foundation of yellow silk. On the bodice there is a dee; frill of the chiffon. Itis further belutifieg with a triangular-shaped trimming of in- sertion, through which run tiny riboons of black velvet. These are tied in choux on both sides. A little bonnet of green straw is worn with this, and it is trimmed with two bunches of vellow roses. Diadem-like in front lay a broad gold band caught down by cabochong in jet. At the same time me. Barlet appeared in a silk-lined crepe costume. In front the skirt was arranged in panels, between which ap- veared pleated gauze. The short, full sleeves were of orange velvet covered with an artistic pattern. Down the front of the bodice was a plat of fine lace, and at the neck and sleeves appeared black rushes of chiffon. In most Parisian dresses this touch of black is noticeable. In the third act Mme. Barlet was ex- quisitely robed 1n a tea gown which I bave had sketched for your benefit, as it is such a youthful and beautiful gown, and re- member how it 1s arranged. Over an un- dress of blue chiffon, flashing with many silver spangles, feil a robe of yellow satin. Garlands of roses, painted with true ar- gowns, just completed, 1 haye selected a few to describe. A gown of black and white striped silk is finished round the bottom by a narrow band of black satin, caught at intervals with turquoises and golfhul{uns. The bodice is made of the silk, with box pleats; these are veiled in creamy lace, which is arranged a la jabot over them. The vest is of accordion- kilted chiffon. The lace collar is orna- mented with trimmings of gold and tur- quoises. < X A lovely gown of crepe de chine has its skirt edged with three tiny rows of Valenciennes, the sleeves and bodice be- inz of the same crepe and ornamented with deep corselet and revers of pale blue silk covered with guipure and a full vest of creme crepe. A bow of blue ribbon and a dainty bunch of violets complete 8 gown well worthy of our consideration. A piain skirt of blue satin draped with net embroidered in silver and pearls goes with a bodice covered with the same net, which is completed by a waistband and shoulder straps of pale blue velvet. A small flounce of the lace forms the sleeves. Another simple but smart gown is of a plamn blue canvas, the skirt of which is a broad band of folded silk. Vest and collar are of a blue-and-white striped velvet. With this gown is worn a blue satin chip hat, lined with white; white tulle surrounds the crown in a ful ruche. Three blue quills stand erect at the left side. The first hats in which tulle figured were charming, but now it bids fair to be- come common, so generally is it used. In shades, one veiling the other should never be indulged in on amateurish bats, asonly the French imported hats have the proper air and style to make such a chapeau a success. So foolishly have most hats been overloaded with trimmings of all descri; tions that it is with relief one reads of the Princess Alexandra’s simple hats. One is composed of shaded pink roses, veiled with tulle, at the right side of which are three black ostrich plumes and a black aigrette. A hat of black satin straw is turned up at the back and is adorned with black chiffon and deep pink azaleas. A chip hat of a delicate pink shade has a dented crown, straw bows are in front, and clusters of wild roses on either side, and an aigrette is formed of a single white rosebud. It would certainly be well if some women would learn a les- son from thedescription of these chapeaux, all of which are free of all oddities and ex- aggerations. 4 Grass lawn, although a simple, inexpen- sive lovking fabric, has proved itself capable of any amount of elaboration, and is 10 be seen plain, striped with lace and sequin incrusted, embroiderea and covered with 1ace applique, and is used on woolen, i and alpaca dresses with excellent results. For the fourth season is biue and green again fashionable. At the last *“drawing-room’ man moire trains were interwoven with metal, and numerous are the gowns of chiffon and lace which are traced with silver thread, gold tinsel or silver and studded with g;arls. The tulle gown, although charming, is doomed, being a very expen- sive frock and sadly perishable.” A nov- elty is the application of heavy silk em- A PRINCESS GOWN, broidery, jet and paillettes upon such ethereal fabrics as mousseline de soie. When jet as an embroidery is used mousse- 1 line almost always forms the groundwork, | and beautiful is the result when gold or sil- | verare skillfully employed. The designsof | such valuable laces as Brussels or antique | oint have been detached from the ground, | aid on silk or satin and allowed to form | part of the embroidery, often powdered | with paillettes. Expense certainly 1s sel- dom considered by the smart woman now- adays. Honiton lace is again in favor. | ‘We will be glad to see it once more. On the fronts of some of the newest evening bodices are strings of pearls which | are caught up on the front with a hand- | some ornament and jewel a la Tudor. Satin is much used at present and many | of the latest gowns have their seams out- | lined with steel and jet beads, the boaice invariably showing a similar treatment. The most fashionable of the moire vel- vatinand moire moulle have a beautiful | silvery sheen, and numerous are the deli- | cate shades in which they are to be had. Many artificial flowers are used on ball gowns; they are usually veiled in tulle. Chatelaines of flowers are frequently seen, and roses without foliaze are u fad. Never before has straw been so much | employed asan embroidery ; forinstance, a Paris dress, from. one of the most noted houses is of black satin combined with | black velvet trimmed with straw, worked | with mother-of-pearl. The result may be | excellent, it certainly is novel if nothing | else. Shotand chameleon effects appear | in both materials and trimmings and now | form the groundwork of many floral | chines. | Purchase no red fabrics unless you must | have one luncheon gown, then have a serge | for the house, otherwise you will be the re- | verse of smart, red having been completely | banished, and right glaa Iam that it no longer is worn in the evening, as delicate, lovely gowns are faded looking affairs when brought in contact with so stronga | hue. Crimson is used with good results | occasionally, as a cravat, and bunches of red poppies are seen on numerous fans | and hats. | size we may expect, by fall, to consider a | skirt four yards in circumference ample, | and as the sleeves diminish, so are the | revers shrinking and tbe collars are like- | wise affected. { The skirts in the fromts, which are now plain and | tight over the hips, the fullness being all | at the back, a more becoming arrange- ment than formerly. In Paris blue serge is being much used and in England the light drab cloths so much liked by French women is quite “‘the thing.” I cannot understand the hold alpaca and mohair has ebtained on the fashionable world, as for my part I would | prefer the simplest little cloth gown to the | handsomest mohair or alpaca one that | could be made. However, this season is | likely to see the last of these materials. | There has just been placed on the market | adelightful new weave of canvas of a crepe- | like texture. It is extremely thin and very expensive, so it will never become common, a strong recommendation to | many. | For those who do not care for Tattersall | waistcoats, and yet do not wish to make | the extravagant outlay necessary for the | tulle and mousseline de soie ones, I would suggest that they should have a waistcoat made by a good woman of an excellent qual- ity of white silk or satin, for with this as a foundation they can readily arrange themselves ruffles of hemstitched or | tucked muslin, which will wash perfectly and e nable the economical to always be | well supplied with effective and pretty | waistcoats, Pale blue, white, pink ana lavender muslin can be used, and fre- uently the frills are edged with lace. hen a straight loose front is more be-| coming the muslin can be tucked or in- | crusted with lace, producing an excellent | effect. The foundation must, of course, | fasten down the back or at one side and | must be well boned. The new shade of hyacinth blue is cer- tainly stylish, but becoming to but few. Many shirt waists are being made up in silk and linen of this color, and with white linen collars and cuffs, are great favorites. Some manufacturers are trying to intro- duce rep, but I trust without success, as it had never been a favorite of mine. ‘When mentioning my dislike to alvaca and mohair I should have added that it does make excellent petticoats for the country and a good lining for skirts. From France have been sentout the latest novelties in gloves. The backs are elaborately sewn with a double twist of i)urse silk, intermixed with small beads. n many cases these are gold, but some- times the three stripes each display a different color—brown, biue and ruby, tinted iridescent beads. They are to be had in such a variety that one need never have a pair that does not harmonize with their gowns in coloring. Highly colored gloves in many of the so-called ‘latest summer shades”” should be let severely alone. £ Those who are about to furnish their homes should remember that for a dining- Toom beautiful real oid English oak 1s never out ot stvle, and now antiquated old oak Welsh *‘dressers,” which take the };Ince of buffets or sideboards, are the rage n London. They make admirable back- grounds for blue china, and old brass and copper jugs and plates. Sometimes in such roomsare placed “gate tables,”’ which are valued possessions. Rarely are more tuan two seen in such a room, as they are of goodly size. Many halls also are fitted in oak, and great is the variety to be had in hall chairs and tables. The latest tables are round, and have places for china and books. When oak is considered too dark and heavy, either Chippendaleor Sherraton are usually selected. Much bedroom furniture is also made up in these styles. The toilet tables having heart-shaped glasses are much liked. Houses should be furnished in harmony, but alas! how many are? Avoid pretentious shams and purchase fiood things when starting out to keep ouse even if you can only have a few handsome chairs and tables at first. Those living in small houses are fre- quently at a loss to know how best to en- | tertain their friends, so now East buffet is season and last is to be found | her skirt-binding.” | days. luncheons are frequently given and are fashionable functions. A large table in the drawing-room is usually daintily spread with snowy damask and adorned with choice blossoms, bonbons, salted almonds, etc., in cut glass or silver dishes. On a side table may be arranged piles of plates, knives, forks and spoons. The guests are supposed to be seated at small tables, but at many swell affairs they are not. Then two of your friends can pour chocolate and boullion at small tables. Maids or waiters serve the lunch, which usually does not consist of more than eight courses. Such affairs are in great vogue, being delightfully informal. and easily prepared, and as well-trained waiters and waitresses can now be readily secured here make entertaining a pleasure. An English magazine has been asked to start a competition and ask ““What are the first essentials of a gentlewoman?’ A number of bright women lately discussed the question and one repliea, By ber boots and gloves,” and another said, ‘“By be said on the subject as most of us have certain very positive ideas. Martyrs to seasickness will hear with pleasure that the channel has been twice crossed in rough weather by a wretched sailor without unpleasant results after taking “Yanatas.”” I should think it well worth a trial, although constitutions are variously affected, Women who rely on their “cup of tea” will be wise if they ever visit Venezuela to take tea with them, as the natives regard it with disfavor, and send to a drugstore for it if one insists on having it, and the quality obtainable is said by one who has experimented to be ‘“simply abominable | and like a dose of senna.” ‘‘MARCELLA.” s FOR MEN. There is a prediction that the vivid greens of springtime, which have been re- | produced for us in shirts and ties, are to be displaced by an absurdly briluant shade of violet. Truly, if ail predictions were veri- violet will never enjoy great favor, as it is very trying to the complexion. A London tailor insists that knicke: or cycling shoulid be made to taper, as he in- is clumsy. No longer will a fashionable man be seen in a Norfolk jacket. Itis a thing of | | : Coodi— &rincipnl difference between our | forms us that fullness just above the knee | ‘fi 4 | e the past, and the loose rough sack coat is considered smart. Him writes: ‘‘Plain stockings with a tartan,” says an English contemporary, ‘have taken the place of the loud-pat- terned stockings, the tartan with a gaudy pattern on the part tarned down.” Also, ‘The most fashionable shirts this season will be soft-fronted, in pink and blue, and the tie a plain sailor’s knot.’ All this may be the latest from ‘Lunnon,’ but for its correctness I will not vouch.” Polo seems to have more votaries here than golf, however, such excellent courses can be had not only in this City, but across the bay as well. In good time it will become popular. It should be noted that the golf field suit is of tweed. In America sack coats are worn in preference to the Norfolk jacket. A recent English authority suggests a tweed jacket, with two gussets in the back to al- iow easy and free play to the arm when the wearer is driving; and this also does | away with the band at the bottom of the | knickers, there being in its place a single cloti. strap. The cap is of tweed, the same material as the suit. The shirt is of Madras or cheviot. The hose have long- | ribbed tops turned over, making a | sort of heavy band just over the| calf of the leg. They are of heavy worsted, in brown, or tans, or dark mixtures, either plain or ribbed. The golf | clubs have special uniforms for receptions, bright red coats with gold buttons and other insignia being the rule among the | English and Scotch links. These uniforms | should, of course, be worn on all formal occasions in the clubhouse or on match And this rule is the general one for meets—golfers and other organizations of sporting men. The club dress uniform is full dress. The club uniform is, therefore, —— e NEW TO-DAY. HAT HAIR ON YOUR FACE, Arms or Neck can be removed permanently only by the Electric Needle. When you have tried in vain powders or lotions, making the growth thicker than ever, you will come to me and say, ‘““¥ow toid the truth!"" Performed by me, hair is removed perfectly, pinlessiy and permanently. No other one can. THAT GRAY HAIR Py F= does not become you, but makes you look older than you should. 1tcan be easily restored to original color at my par- lors, or you can buy my $1 per bottle. 4-DAY HAIR RESTORER, £..5ec, bote Not sticky or greasy. Best on earth. PERFECT GOMPLEXIONS ean be kept s0 only by the use of a good Skin Food to keep the skin healtny, clear and smooth. My LOLA MONTEZ CREME isthe best; 75¢ a jar. Lasts three months. riokics" 3 Sannarn o by oum FoiE, Ia s 0 rn is using t Good for burns and insect gllec. & oren TRIAI‘ Box. Ladies out of city sendinfl ad with 10c in stamps w ceive & book of instructions and a box of LOLA MONTEZ CREME And Face Powder free. MRS. NETTIE HARRISON, Dermatologist, this 1 re- Well, a great deal can | perfect full dress for golf dinners, dances, ;ui.l. just as the limit uniform is for limit alls. Blue serge is always worn in preference to anything else for yachting suits. For this purpose they are made with a reefer for peajacket, in case the weather is bad. Colored shirts are worn. Duck trousers and black sack coats wiil be the costumes seen on the tennis ground. Another attempt is being made to intro- duce braid on evening trousers, a hideous fashion which should not be tolerated. The dress or evening coat in vogue is of a soft fine vicuna, smooth and with a tine twill. or of soft fine corkserew. It is foced with silk. A frock coat and gray trousers, top hat and gloves of the new shade of tan are worn to garden parties and infirmal re ceptions during the summer. Last sum. mer on such occasions many gray cloth frocks were seen. Patent leather shoes are, of course, worn when so garbed. On the seashore a morning lounge s should be worn, with a colored linen with a white collar and the shirt. chapeau, __An indigo blue serge svit of fine texture is a very necessary and acceptable adai- tion to any man’s wardrobe at this season. Bathing robes are still being made of crash or Turkish toweling. The slippers match. Light colors are preferable, for instance, those having a white ground with stripes of pale blue, pink and ecru are becoming, or those in a solid color are liked. The color should be delicate, and it is well to remember that blue and ecru retain their color better than pink. When entering any such public place as a theater or restaurant a man must always precede the gentiewoman whom he es- c¢orts, as he thus clears a passage for her if there is anything of a crowd, but on en- tering a church the lady precedes her C.C. t hirt cuffs matching A straw hat is the only correct escort. He Stood Corrected. ‘Johnny, I want you to run a me: for me.” *‘Shan’t.” *Johnny, is that the way to speak to your father?” s ou please, I shan’t!” NEW TO-DAY. :iiiiiivvivv’iivivvvv: ESpecial Saving Sale $ . | & ST | & IMITATION CUT GI ® Almost as bright and clear P the genuine—at these SPE » CIAL prices until Wednesd: & night: Fruit or Salad Bowls #25¢ and 35c Large Cak i ater Pitcher: | ® 45¢; Cream Pitchers, 15¢; Pr ® serve or Icecream Saucers, 5 's and 60c per dozen, etc. » them in the window. & THAT BIG CHINA STORE— A Quarter of a Blook Below Shreve's. WANGENHEIM, STERNHEIM & 0., @ 528 and 530 Market St., § 27 and 29 Sutter St., s BELOW MONTGOMERY. ¥ L2 P L » L LT LY » » s a . | QQQQ!!"(Q(_(#‘:IQQ\Q_QQ‘AQ“G i Now that the sleeves are decreasing in | fied, we would be gorgeous to behold, but TieSenFeancesco Ve Ratf makx (i T |§ 22 Beary St., Near Kearny. A CHOICE COLLECTION! - Fancy Weaves—T75¢ per Yard Faney Weaves—$1.00 per Yard Fancy Weaves—$1.25 per Yard Fancy Weaves—$1.50 per Yard Fancy Weaves—$1.75 per Yard Fancy Weaves—$2.00 per Yard Fancy Weaves—$2.25 per Yard Faney Weaves—$3.00 per Yard Fancy Weaves—$3.50 per Yard The largest collections and of the most recent styles. SAMPLES FORWARDED, GOODS SENT C. 0. D. R. T. KENNEDY COMPANY. FREUD'S CORSET HODSE SPECIAL SALE OF CORSETS 200 Dozen Ladies’ Black and Drab Corsets, Reduced From $1.75 to $1.00. A Great Corset Bargain. Spoon And Straight Seels. CAUTION — Having no agencies or branch stores, our Corsets can be purcha; establishment. » sed only at our Mail orders receive prompt attention. Tilustrated Cacalogue mahed free. MAKE NO MISTAKE IN OUR ADDRESS M. FREUD & SO, 742-744 Narket St. and 10-12 Grant Ave, I:HE PHIEADELPHIA LTROLYSI5 G H70MarKeT: ST LORNERTAVLOR : (OveR e Maze) Room 26 PEBMANEA’I_’L\‘ REMOVESSUPERF hair by electricity at 81 a sitting; free: no scars lefe; LUOUS first sitting 40-42 Geary street, San Francisco, e DL moles, warts, etc., also re-