The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, April 26, 1896, Page 30

30 THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, APRIL 26, 1896. N unusually pretty wedding was solemnized last week. The bride and her sister, the maid of honor, were both charmingly and be- co ly arrayed. Many are the | regrets expressed that San Francisco will lose so attractive a member of society. The girls were more lovely than ever in | “living pictures.”’ Indeed, it would hard | to say who was the greatest belle, most of | them being pretty as a picture. And how amiable our belles are when requested to assist in any’charitable undertaking, but this one is unusually interesting and ex- crllent so I wish 1t every snceess. The large tea given last Saturday on Jackson street was one of the most suc- cessful and delightful of the season. Many of the most attractive girlsin the City were present and several of them assisted the debutante in receiving. She was fasci- natingly lovely in her gown of pale-yellow satin, the skirt plain and perfectly hung. | The bodice of the satin was veilea | with creamy mousseline de soie, embroid- ered in dots. It was given a true Frenchy touch by means of narrow black lace insertions, which were effectively in- | troduced. One of the young girls who | assisted in receiving was, as usual, much | admired; her dress of fine grass linen, | with insertions over silk, was a model by which many summer frocks might well be | made. There is no fear of such becoming | common, but you will not realize hew ex- | pensive such a dress is until you ask “‘Madame” what she charges for a similar costume. Several of the organdies worn | were commented on with admiration, and | perhaps never before have San Francisco | women taken quite so much interestin | light gauzy fabrics, for great numbers of them have been made up during the last six weeks for the southern floral fetes, | some of which were really beautiful and | most fetching. | Numerous have been the luncheons of k. The large one given at the v Club was a pretty affair, but those given at two of our spacious homes deserve weightier adjectives. Speaking of organdies reminds me of a simple dinner dress worn a few evenings ago by a cainty little matron. She Jooked™ radiantly pretty, and when I ad- | mired her very successful frock she ex- | ned its evolution. She had a soiled | lic which looked quite hopeless, so she carefully removed all the trimming and sent it to the cleaners, and on its re- | turn found that it would make a good foundation or lining. A few days later | she saw an organdy which had a creamy | ground sprayed with wild roses and green leaves. It was rather expen being | exceptionally sheer and fine. This, richly incrusted lace and insertion, now | ls in the composition of a toilette which cannot fail to be admired whenever | worn. Long chine ribbons, covered with pink and green flowers, completet. To | think that in California such gowns can be | and then to read that | at the battle of flowers just over in Nice, | Italy, the Empress of Austria wore a cave | and gown composed entirely of Persian | lamb and a smart little toqde to match. | "T'o our country cousins and those not well | posted concerning the modes of the season | the change is not noticeable, for one must needs examine closely to detect the slight modifications in detail and minutie. Basques and open jacket bodices are the | principal styles for outdoor wear, and they | are made with the new sleeve, which is | really a tight one with some drapery at the shoulder. Suggestions of Eton and Figaro jackets are produced in summer frocks by means of laces and insertions, ribbons and gauzes replacing the jaunty winter affairs of vel- | vets, satins and silks, but for those whose | figures can stand fichus they are the lat. est, most chic and delightfuily pretty, be- ing trimmed with lace, chiffon or muslin frills, which are repeated in the skirt, and | it shouid be remembered that ‘“drawing and puffing of sleeves wherever the ma- | terial admits is de rigueur, and where that | cannot be done folds are resorted to, turning from wrist to shoulder.” For morning wear there is nothing more practical than navy serge, especially if a good heavy make is selected, for it will stand all sorts of weathers, and can- be counted upon to last the season. In Paris there isan absolute craze for this serge, and the leading Paris tailor, Mauby, has just completed a costume composed of a well-cut skirt and a jeunty little jacket, with revers, collar and_turned-back cuffs of cream cloth, and sufficent inner Jining of the same cloth to be seen when the | jacket is open. No one could desire a | smarter morning gown, but for those who | are weary of serge this same tailor has | created a new checked cloth in dark red and green. The shape is quite new, as is also the cloth, for it is | checked in dark red and green. Black braiding appears upon the revers, the cuffs and upon the front seams of the skirt; it is introduced with excellent effect. As | usual, all the best dressed women_ are ap- pearing in tailor-made gowns, and for the moment most of the waistcoats seen are of lace and chiffon, silk and cambric. These are most becoming but extravagant frivol- ities. The substantial Tattersall ones rank next in favor. In London the neckties worn with the suits are of India or of black corded silks, but the ereen plaid tie is the iatest. A fashionable woman appeared one morning in the park attired in a bicycling costume of dark blue serge, completed by a light blue shirt, over which were fine hair lines of black. Her collar was a turn-down one, and her tie comrposed of a green plaid. She wore a black Panama hat with a black ribbon round it. Among the materials daily being un- cased are numerous new weaves of mohair, chine gauzes, lawns of an ecru shade mingled with heliotrope and paitlette of lace of all kinds. A light gray Bicilian alpaca is in great demand, merchants finding it impossible almost to supply the demand, and in_most cases it is made up with white.. Empire chines and the ombre-striped flowered chines are much sought for, as are also the empire bro- cades. Silks with the seventeenth century pompadour stripes are beautiful. Cream silk_blouse waists are frequently bright- ened with a bandana handkerchief. It is very swell to wear grass lawn overa sliot silk, but be sure, girls, to avoid the cheap silk so wmgtinglv displayed on everv side. It is much like brown paper and will split and tear almost asreadily. East much of this silk was displayed last summer, but- its reception was chilling in the extreme. 8o now we are offered shot silks in firm, excellent fabrics, sometimes shot in two colors, sometimes in tiree, and it can be bad in four if desired. | appreciate. | which has tiny golden buttons usedas a than ever when embroidered in elaborate designs in gold and jeweled effects. One is of butterflies worked in rich red silk out- lined with gold threads and covered with jewels on a groundwork of white mousse- line. This costs only $750 ver yard in New York. Many of the black and white silk dresses enjoying such vogue have ex- quisite appliques of white lace. Simple and plain materials will be extensively used, but simplicity will not be the order of the day, for such fabrics are to be richly trimmed " and ornamented. The latest capes have small flounces round them, and on light gauzy grounds they will also appear. Cravats of bati lace, chiffon and tulle will be worn h all costumes. Model evening dresses at Redfern’s have quite tight steeves. made plain almost to the shoulder, where they were either puffed out themselves or that effect was produced with softly falling trimming. So by gradual stages even the American woman will be lec back to small sieeves. One of our large stores here is showing Dresden chiffons. They are marvelously becoming and not so dreadfully expensive after all, for two or three yards will give a chic touch to an otherwise uninteresting bodice. The higher grade mohairs and alpacas are on sale in all the leading shopsand many inexpensive lightweight _cloths which make up most satisfactorily for visiting-dresses. With these costumes I strongiy recommend the newest sailor hat with just the ribbon band or a Panara chapeau. Hats laden with flowers, etc., are not suitable for all occasions, and the woman who desires to be trim, trig and stylish will give more than one glance at her faithful mirror before deciding on even tue simplest details of her toilette. If some women would only bear in mind thattime brings changes of form. coloring and com- plexion the results would be better. This morning 1 have just read the de- scription of a picture hat which many will It is in bebe chip, with a fold of mignonette green velvet under the brim and a bandeau of roses. A plume of black tips, another band of velvetround | the crown, finished off with strings, make | a very stylish bat, which will emphasize | the charms of a youthful face, and I have had an even prettier one illustrated for you—it is properly called a ‘“Versailles hat.” It is madeof black chip, with ex- ceptfonally fine feathers on one sideand a bow of broad satin ribbon on the opposite side, three tips fall over the brim. Wide strings of beautiful ribbon complete a chapeau which must be seen to be appre- ciated. The handsome house dressis of a rich | light gray silk. The skirt is simple and | well cut; the bodice very elaborate. The | sleeves wrinkle to the wrist, and over the | hand falls a frill_of fine lace. The vest is | of pale pink chiffon over a pale green silk | foundation. There are braces of pink vel- | vet studded with smali, but excellent, | paste buttons, and veiled by a cascade of filmy lace. A belt of unusually fine passe- menterie completes it. This gown is lined with rose silk and completed with green and rose pinked ruffles. A dear little blonde debutante here will look sweet!y pretty when she appearsina dark-blue serge, lined with green shot It has a biscuit-colored embroidered waist- | coat, trimmed with a beautiful galoon. Anotber stylish girl nas a costume of a rich golden brown cloth, the bodice of trimming. This bodice is cut so as to show a pouched waistcoat, outlined with Ori- ental trimming, showingat thetop a small yoke of cream-colored lace. I am delighted with a gown of blue can- vas, with the seams of the skirt showing an under petticoat of accordion-pleated blue and green shot silk. Braces of blue canvas, edged with narrow Kkiltings of the silk, appear over the shoulders of the bodice, which is comprised completely of the kilted silk, and has a deep corselet belt round the waist. With this wiil be worn an odd little mantle of a drab gauze over the green-shot silk. This mantel is covered with a conventional design out- lined with iridescent beads. Handsome | ribbons complete it. The new canvas is an attractive fabrie, so [ am sure most of you will be interested in hearing of a dress of Holland-colored canvas, which had a bodice of the canvas with a snowy mousseline de soie vest. | The bodice was edged with narrow white silk-kilted frills, which were repeated on the skirt in three rows round the bottom. One of the same fabrics is prettily made up with a waistcoat of grass lawn embroidered with silks in numerous col- ors. The little jacket has broad revers, also embroidered. A coarse purple canvas of an exceed- mgly stiff texture cannot be more effec- tively made up than with a vest of grass lawn embroidered in green, gold and vio- let silks, and a distinctly original air may be given by having the hem on the skirt scalloped and surrounding the scallops with a kilting of narrow violet satin nt- bon. An Easter bride has in her troussesn an evening frock of pink chine silk with a tiny gray stripe. The bodice is high, with a inted yoke of lisse, embroidered in pink roses and finished at neck and cuffs with a twist of ribbons. The ruffles at the wrists are of creamy lace. This_fortunate woman can wear yellow with delightful results, so, naturally, she has a dinner gown of golden hue. The foundation is of this rich color, in glace silk, over which is a skirt of accordion- pleated mousseline de soie, alternating with stripes of jet and gold-sequined em- broidery. The sleeves are ala butterfly. A frill of black mousseline over one of yel- low completes this conception at the neck and shoulders. A good and useful dress is the of a youthful matron. i white striped silk, the stripes graduating into V’s in front. The ice has revers of black lisse, which has a white lace ap- plique upon 1t, while down the front and around the neck is a deep rose-tinted rib- bon, outlined with the white lace ap- plique. ropert; of a black ani served a costume of chine silk with mauve predominating in its coloring and bretelles and collar of mauve miroir velvet, outlined with lace. The brunette who wore it had fortunately selected just the right mauve, which suited her rich coloring, so the result was noticeably 0od. 5 A very dressy tailor gown, made in Lon- don, has a decidedly Frenchy air about it. The material used is an exceptionally fine “‘nut brown” cloth. The basque is very narrow at the back. continued to the froni, where it falls in deep pointe, matching the revers at the neck. On the shoulders are triple capes, which are lined with white ) crossed the brown and white brocaded vest; this is secured with buttons. A cravat of fine lace gives an appropriate touch of daintiness. Sucn capes are occasionably movable, and such is the case in a good brown and blue checked cloak made with a blue siik front, so that it could be worn in or out of doors equally well. A full cape of deep blue velvet is lined with white satin and edged with a galon in tones of green, blue and brown, and inisde the ‘“upstanding battlements” at the throat were many bouillonnes of white lisss with ends tying in front. So popular are the new capes and man- tles, that no fashion paper would be com- plete without relating the charms of some of the latest novelties. Among them I admire a small model that barely reaches the waist. In design and embroidery 1t is a real Lows XVI cape, exquisitely pretty and chic. Itiscomposed of a pale shot silk, covered with arabesques of that period. The front is vest-like in effect, being made of lousine. Two lovely odd old buttons hold in place a becoming ruche of white mousseline de scie at the throat. The lining is of a rich white satin, the balayeuses are of the mousseline. This 1s quite the loveliest cape, in my opinion, that has been created this season. For a matron I recommend a black satin cne, draped like a shawl at the back over a pointed empisement of pompadour silk | | | ! | | beautiful toilettes were worn. The hostess appeared in old-rose satin made with a tablier outlined with two quilles of Parma violets ‘and cowslips. The _ bodice was low and square, veiled with white chiffon embroidered with golden but- terflies and violets. Violet bretelles crossed the shoulders. The bouffant sleeves were composed of a deep flounce of embroidered chiffon. A white aigrette and a tuit of violets were worn with good effect in the Vicomtesse’s hair. On the same oc- casion was worn a handsome confection of moire glace, rush green in color. It was covered with green gauze richly spangled with jet. The Louis X V1 bodice was veiled with the same gauze, which formed a cuirass, completed in the back and front with aroll of green velvet. Aithecornerof the lert shoulder a large bunch of black and green poppies reposed. 1n the hair of the fair wearer was an aigrette of black and green, held with a diamond clasp. On the occasion of Mile. Appert’s mar- riage to the Count de Bourlon-Liguieres, the bride was gowned in creamy satin, her long veil being of pointed Angleterre. Such veils are very unbecoming when worn over the face, so this bride had the good sense to have'it_so arranged that it did not cover hess. Her mother was at- | tired in -an elegant princess costume of | black velvet, the bodice composed of rare Alencon lace, which also descended in two bands down the front of the skirt. She wore a dainty bonnet of shaded lilacs. The Count’s mother was handsomely garbed in Parma violet velvet of a very dark shade, beautified with Brussels lace. The bonnet worn was a work of art of vio- let tulle and exquisite dark velvet roses. Another Countess was in a princess dress of black velvet, but hers had a sky-blue satin front, covered with white lace. One of the bridesmaids is said to have been quite charming in a Watteau frock of a bluish-white taffetas glace, covered with little black dots. Theiodice was draped with white tulie spotted with black. Her hat of gathered tulle spangled with steel and jet was large. At another wedding one of the guests appeared in an elegant dress of sky-blue moire, run with silver threads. The Louis XV jacket had a jabotof Alencon lace. The toque worn was of blue tulle with sil- ver and roses. A gown much commented on was of pale green satin, the very pointed bodice being covered with unusually beau- tiful silver embroidery. On the 15th of this month one of the most beautiful weddings of the season was celebrated at Trinity Church, in New York, when Miss Bramen was married to Charles Johnson. The decorations were A GRACEFUL TOILET. in long ends almost to the hem of the skirt, and is adorned with a pleating of black chiffon, edged with a small black satin ribbon. At the throat the ruching is wide, the chiffon being intervened with loops of pompadour ribbon. A cape from London Has s fronting_ black net with ap- plique of covper-colored velvet traced with jet. At the waist there is a belt of the | same. The sleeves are of copper and green | shot silk, the rest outlined with a frill of black lace and jet, falling in flounces from long straps of velvet, which ornament the front. This is only a suitable garment for a very slender woman, being too fussy and frilly for her stouter sister. Of course the style of the time of Marie Antoinette is the newest in capes, and very charming itis. The long square ends | reach to the feet, and are beautified with | ruching and trimming of tulie, net or chiffon, Tne rofles now being worn by fashion- able women round their throats are, gen- erally speaking, very unbecoming, and should not be given a moment'’s considera- tion, if not of good material, and if they do not suit the style of the woman contem- plating them. I haveseen one huge, hide- ous, horrid affair made of cheap net which surrounded the throat of a red-faced, short-necked woman. The re- sult can be imagined. It is safe to say that fashion’s leaders will soon drop this fancy, as already the reproductions of beautiful models are maddeningly gro- tesque. A brunette with peautiful coloring has a blouse bodice which suits her admirably, being of cherry silk with an applique of cream white lace, outlined with jet beads. This tekes the form of a *‘pointed corselet and a sort of zouave cut into tabs,” edged with an infinitesimal kilting of black chif- fon. Thesleeves are veiled with the same chiffon. A corsage from Felix is cut in Figaro style “with postilion basque, Directoire revers and Medaicis collar of white satin, completed with a flounce of silk gauze.” Very picturesque is a bodice of blue can- vas, with yoke and braces in one, of red cloth, traced with gold and silver. Thix 18 labeled by Redfern ‘‘Circassian,” and Circassian also is a deep corselet of white cloth braided in gold, which with a pouched top of white and yellow striped silk form a most delightful waistcoat. This excellent tailor has just completed a costume of Siberia brown cloth, with a magenta waistcoat braided in black, show- ing a white silk shirt front and a little lace cravat. There has just been given a very suc- cessful “Model Doll Show’” in New York for charity. It was held at Sherry’s, and must havebeen a most interesting and beautiful sight, each dressmaker of prom- 1nence being allowed to send one or more dolis arrayed in a model costume, Large crowds of fashionable women and children attended thisexhibition, and among many models oneof the most admired was a gown which had a white pique skirt, with a band of heavy Irish point about one- third way up tke skirt. 'Fl’le blouse bodice was composed of lisse, with insertions of lace. With this goes a short double cape of pique, with bands of Irish point. The hat was made of shirred green satin and white lace. Grass lawn will find pique a formidable rival ere the season is over. I must really quote for you a description of a beautiful mauve satin: “The skirt is formed in rather wide accordion pleats all round, two panels of broad Alencon inser- tion jeweled with tiny paste buttons being At one of the receptions last week I ob- | carried down both sides of the front. The bodice is also pleaied and has a gracefully draped garniture of the same yellowish lace powdered in the new way with small brilllants. A bunch of therosesand helio- trope catch the lace butterfly low on one side. Puffed sleeves turned up very high complete a lovely gown.” In Paris it is now tbe style to wear low- necked dinner gowns, the French, at least, having adopted the English idea. One of the most elaborate of recent din- ners was given by the Vicomtesse Vilain. Thne table was decorated with true artistic grace, the centerpiece being composed of Parma violets and cowslips, which were also scattered over the entire table. This Mousseline de soie is more attractive satin; a pleated band of white satin affair was especially noted in Paris owing with a black ground. The front extends ) not only elaborate, but beautiful as well. Two tiny maids of honor scattered rose leaves for the bridal party to walk on. The ushers are reported to have been un- usually good-looking. The bridal robe was a work of art. At the Auteuil steeplechase I see that one of our American Countesses was pres- ent. Iallude to the Countess de Castel- lane, who wore a skirt of lilac gros-grain with a black velvet jacket and a black and pink toque, but one of the prettiest dresses was worn by a very youthful Duchesse. It consisted of a skirt of fine violet cloth and a dark jacket embroid- ered with rich passementerie. A capot of violet velvet, having a large black aigrette, crowned her fair hair. The raint and Powder Club in Baiti- more at their last entertainment intro- duced an umbrella dance, which was exe- cuted with much skill by two young men attired as Quakeresses. They twirled the umbrellas as they moved. Brides are so numerous nowadays they want a word of advice; be sure if possible to acknowledge your wedding presents be- fore the wedding. Do not send a card with your thanks written on it, as I heard of one maiden doing, for you are expected to write as pretty a note of thanks as you can, but when gifts come too late to do this acknowledge them oa your return home I am havpy to see that Sheraton and Chippendale furniture is stili in high favor, as no one gifted artistically can fail to appreciate such refined and delicate lines. Some abominable cheap imitations have been placed on the market, but of course are passed by with a shudder by those who are au fait. The greatest palm fancier in London has discovered that the leaves of palms shonld be washed with milk and water, as the milk prevents the appearance of brown spots, and a little cold coffee poured occasionally over ‘the mold of potted viants produces excellent results. At the Opera in Paris if you look down upon the house numberless beautifully dressed heads are to be seem, most of which are adorned with some pretty orna- ment, a tiny bunch of flowers, an aigrette, or a chain of precious stones is woun about some coiffures. I wonder how many of you have seen the very beautiful screen embroidered in this City by a woman who should have R_ninud with a brush instead of her needle? he screen consists of three panels of homespun linen, on which are most per- fectly reproduced great white and red cactus flowers. The shading 1s wonderful, and I, who have seen great rooms full of fine needlework, have never seen a more artistic and beautiful reproduction of a very difficult flower. 'he screen is mounted handsomely in a frame, on which are carved representatives of the cactus plant and blossoms. Such a piece of work would make a lovely bridal gift. Several hostesses who gave KEaster lunches used eggs of chocolate or nougat filled with bonbons as souvenirs. Each guest’s name was inscribed with icing. Perfumes will be more used than usual this season, but should be of the most re- fined and delicate character. Of all I pre- fer the scent of fresh violets, of mignonette or wall flowers, but when these cannot_be had orris root is the most refined. Re- member that there is no better index to refinement than the perfume one uses. MARCELLA. —_— I'OB_._!EH. The latest English frockcoats show but little of the shirt or tie, and this is really fortunate if the very vivid ties are to be in vogue. Smart men are ordering large numbers of four-in-hands, silk Ascots and white pique ties from their tiemakers, as no longer are the ready-made ones con- sidered good form. The white spring scarfs which are being shown are never tied in bows, except for evening wear. White marseilles and white pique will he tied in bows. No one ever sees an evening tiea Ia butterfly nowadays, but the club tie is arranged in a kind of double butter- fly with straight square ends. Patent leather shoes may be correctly to the fact that an unusual number ol' worn while in mourning. They are never made with extension soles by any firste ciass bootmaker. Light trousers worn with a dark gray sackcoat produce rather a neglige effect. Ushers at a wedding should wear gloves of either pearl or white kid which match exactly those worn by the m, but it is not necessary that his should be the same as those worn by the bride. All the very latest tweeds from Scotland are mixtures of green and fawn color, and green is in evidence in all tweeds. Men who do not leave the City during the summer should wear lounge suits until dinnertime. Tan shoes, a straw hat and a colored shirt with white collar usually accompany such suits. Tan shoes hza7e s0 long been in fashion that it is pre- dicted they will shortly be banished. However, the (;uestion arises, What will take their place? Perhapsthe bootmakers have a surprise in store for us. Not a few of our beaux will spend much of thesummer arrayed in knickers and golf toggery. 5 en in mourning when in evening dress wear ties of black silk, not black satin ones. When driving four-in-hand a man is always suppo: to wear afternoon dress— light trousers, black frockcoat and top bat—t is perfectly allowable to wear in- stead a gray driving coat with large but- tons and a top hat. For tennis, trousers of white duck or flannel are worn with a sackcoat. Madras or silk shirts are in good style. The daz- zlingly bright blazer has vanished, let us trust, forever, as I can distinctly remem- ber, when it first was in vogue, the appall- ing figure presented by a vouthful New Yorker when arrayed in one having stripes of orange and black. en who have grooms should see to it that they do not wear jewelry, it is such bad form, and when servants are put into liveries it is certainly worth while to have them correct, otherwise those whom you most desire to impress favorably will' be highly amused instead. The New Yorker continues to regard a display of watch chain and seals as vulgar, 50 hadmonish you to keep them out of sight. “Him” announces that he has read in an English fashion journal “that apple- green silk waistcoats with white spots and vivid green tweeds have been exhibited.” Fortunately for us many things are ex- hibited which are never even given a passing thought by the men who set the fashions, and such will in all likelihood be the fate of those waistcoats; however, there certainly isa decided tendency to brighten up our somber garments. . Toilet articles in tortoise-shell or ebon- ized wood with a gold monogram or crests are in great vogue. Daintily preity things, being really suitable for women only. This reminds me of how horrbly unsuitable a turquoise ring looked on a man’s finger whom I met a few days ago. When preparing for summer, it would be well to glance over the following list given by Vogue: ORDINARY OCCASIONS. Morning—For casino, beach or walking.—A lounge suit, cut short and aimost square be- hind, all one material, cheviot, tweed or Scotch mixtures. Morning suit— A modi- fied lounge, all one material, black cieviot, grn¥ ground or patterned. L Afternoon—For garden parties, driving, in- formal receptions.—Frock coat; material, vi- cuna; color, brown, gray or black. Fancy waistcoats, striped, of milled flannel. Trousers, brown, gray or striped. Top hat. A less formal suit. Morning suit, as above, with new cut- away coat; material, cheviots, vicunas; color, dark brown or gray, ' Straw hat. Evening—Informal.—Jacket coat. Suit all one material, smooth vicuna; color, Black tie. Straw or derby hat. Formal.—White waistcoat, single or double breasted. Trousers and coat all one material. Smooth vicuna, black. White tie. High or crash hat. Inver- ness cape coat. SPECIAL OCCASIONS. Traveling: By sea—Lounge suit, tan shoes and Hombourg hat or cap; Madras shirt. By il—Same dress, colored shirt. Short jour- Sa lounge suit, covert ccat, bag, Vi ng-stick, umbrella. Yachung—Blue flannel for morning, and same dress as cn shore fordinner and evening. Golfing: For field — Material, tweed; no waistes Al:i’ et and knickers snd cap all one material; leggins. For clubhouse—The club uniform 1s formal dress on all occasions in the afternoon or evening. Tenmis—White duck trousers, white Madras shirt; white flunnel coat, plain or finely striped. Bathing—Ocean, two-piece suits, all one plain dark color with very short sleeves and trousers just to the knees; house, bath-robes. Cycling—Same as golf, but no spats or leg- gins. Riding—For afternoons, short black vicuna cutaway coat, long trousers strapped under the shoes, top hat, gloves; for morning, whipcord breeches, coat of same, fancy waistcoat, brown derby hat, boots or leggins, dark gloves. Driving—Afternoon dress. frock coat, top hat, light trousers, light dogskin or cape gloves of a gray driving coat with large buttons, top hat, light gloves. C.C. BAB ON BOOKS AND BEDS The Book-Borrowing Habit De- nounced as a Cardinal Sin. Beds and Their Different Makes and Builds Have Much to Do With Sleep. NEW YORK, N. Y., April 21, 1896.—If you wish to be considered smart you are, of course, announcing to your friends that May will find you in Russia witnessing the coronation of the Czar. I have been told of the pleasure expected by women who will get no nearer to Russia than the quarter dedicated to the Russian Jews, on the East Side, in New York City; and the queer part of it is that these ludies, who do not tell the entire truth, are so placid about it. It takes a woman to lie with ease. She can get into her face a look as innocent as possinle, and then go ahead in her efforts to outdo Ananias. I can im- agine that this great spectacle of the coronation will be well worth seeing, but I don’t think it will ever compare, as a curiosity, with the stolidity with which the spring-gowned young woman tells of her invitation to be present, and of the impression that she made on various Rus- sian nobles whom she met abroad last season. I cannot understand why Rus- sia is so fascinating to women. Possibly, it is because, in the history of the world, the most wicked women have been Rus- sians. Possibly it is because the average Russian man, while good to look upon, is, in reality, stupid. And, possibly, it is because the line of caste is drawn very de- cidedly in all the Russias. A republic does not appeal to anything feminine. The eternal feminine wants to sit npon a throne and command other people, or else she wants to be sufficiently near the throne to influence it. With woman, an aristocracy is a necessity, and although we may talk until we are blue in our faces about an aristocracy of brains, there never has been and never will be one. Brains bow to good manners and blood. Sometimes, when I get to think- ing very hard, I find myself predicting that 500 years from now the United States will be a monarchy. The day when men of brains and wealth, men like Thomas Jefferson and James Madison, longed to make all men as near as possible equal, have qpn. by; in these days each city and each little town hasitsaristocracy, usually an aristocracy of wealth. But after two or three generations of wealth there begins to be a longing for'an aristocracy of race; and, once the aristocracy of race and zvulth' with acertain leaven of brain, is in ontrol, it will demand a leader, and aking will be the natural result. Who will be the king 500 years from now? A descend- ant from_the butcher Astor? One of the tribe of Vanderbilt, boatman? Will the king come outof the West and be descended from one of the railroad magnates, or from one of the workers who dug in the earth and found gold therein? The king black. § will not be a politician, of that I feel sure; unless, indeed, he should descend from one of those dignified New England gentlemen who made politics not a ques- tion of money, but who used their money. to purify politics. I am not speaking of any politicians of to-day. Even in New England, I know of none who will answer that description. But think it cut for yourself, and decide under whose banner will the aristocrats of 2500 rally. But to return to Russia. The woman of to-day is a great admirer of Catherine of Russia. Shealways speuks of her as pos- sessing great brain and will power. She bas never seemed to me, however, the sort of person thatI should care to have an intimate acquaintance with. She be- gan ber career by killing her husband, and after that she took fancies, so to say, to various gentlemen to whom she gave her very intense love, and on whom she spent the wealth of all the Russias. One of these gentlemen, Potemkin, was so weary of money that be had his books bound in bank notes. I may mention that I have never seen or borrowed one of these books, but I read this 1n the history of Russia written in French. Speaking™ of borrowing books, aren’t they cheap enough and isn't our civilization old enough for that sort of thing to cease? You or i lovea book. We spend many happy or unhappy housrs over it. Here a passage is marked by a pencil ; there a_specially beautiiul description is emphasized by some rose leaves between the pages, and there, well there where there was something that appealed spe- cially to your heart or to mine a tear drop fell. and 'a tear drop never fades. This book is part of one’s self. Some day Miss Rosalind Flighty a: pears and she, after the manner of her fimd, goes over your books, picks up this special one and asks you to lend it to her. You are kindhearted and don’t know how to refuse. And this.fool hasin her possession what- is really a part of your life. And the chances are ten to one that she pencils certain passages as “lovely,’” ‘‘t00 sweet for anything,” and when the book that you're fond of comes home, if it ever does, it has become so inoculated with the insipidity of the borrower that you catch it up with a tongs and put it in the fire. Sometimes the borrower selects your favotite passages, learns them by heart, quotes them to other people, tells how thev were marked in your book, and then starts in to adapt them to your daily life. Personally, I do not lend my books. I used to, but the disappearance of a valua- ble French book, the mystery attending a book illustrated by John Leech, the walk- ing away in some mysterious manner of an expensive dictionary of quotations, and the disappearance of no end of novels has made me brutal. Now, I have the courage of my convictions and announce that I rever lend a book. For myself, I should Just as soon think of asking people to lend me their underwear as_to lend me of their library. Of course, there are people in tois world, as I know to my sorrow, who do not «raw the line at borrowing lingerie. Apropos of books, if you want one for your daughter, put into her hand the life of Dolly Madison, which has just come out and wuich will explain to her in the most charming manner how a woman can be fascinating and more than mer ly fascinating to both men and women and yet always be womanly and lovable. I am a great admirer of Dolly Madison. In her day what a great.lady this little Philadelpiia Quakeress was! No queen ever surpassed her in dignity orin charm, and no queen ever realized better than ' she did how to make people like her; and she managed this little bit of diplomacy as a woman and not. as a olitictan. Dolly Madison would not ave been in harmony with the advanced woman. Bieycles, bloomers and longings | for votes would have been far from her, but she would have ruled. to-day just as same reason—because she was a charming woman. As I said before, it is a good book for a girl, this story of her life, and a good book specially for the girl of to-day. To-day, orrather to-night, nobody sleeps well. - Whether it is the fault of the noisy city, of overstrained nerves, of a troubled conscience, who can teil? But certain sure, that doctor who will find an inno- cent opiate is the one who will make a for- tune. 1don’t believe the beds themselves were ever more beautiful. They are of enameled wood, of brass, of mahogany | she did so many years ago, and for the | expensive, It must bé all white, its cur- tains of white Swiss muslin, its ribbons of white satin, really, it must in toe first place be as immaculate as the lilies, and then it must be kept so. And that is why it costs so much. Mlle. Mousseline’s dra- peries must be like herself, unspotted. The zancy for the silk coverlids on one’s bed has caused the heavy Marseilles counter- pane to disappear, and this means that it is now possig e for one to sleep undersome- thing that isless in weight than sheet- iron, and which permitsalittle more ventil- ation than a stone wall. Doctors tell that more people have died from Marseilles counterpanes than from pneumonia, and that is saying a good bit. The prettiest bed I ever saw was Mrs. Lanetry’s, The bed itself was Chippendale; the draperies, soft gray brocade with tiny flowers in faint figures upon them; the side curtains were of bolting cloth, those at the head of the bed embroidered in poppies and thase at the foot in morning glories. But, after all, it is not the bed or its draping, or its cov- ers, or its curtains, but it is the sleep that one wants. And one may have the softest bed in the world, and yet the rose leaf hid- den in it will irritate the flesh and annoy the soul. If one is awake, the gmur: of the night are just as long if one’s bed is draped in brocade as if one slept without curtains and on a hard cot. Bas, NEW TO-DAY. America xAthens The victory of the American Eaglein therevival of the Olym- pian Games of ancient Greece is suggestive of the victories won by the American ¢ < dentifrice, SO- competitors during the past 50 years. & It is interesting to observe that“So- zodont” is de- tived from the Greek words“so- 20,” to preserve, and “odontes,” the teeth. If you wish to test the merits of famous Sozodont, a2 sample bottle will be mailed on receipt of 3 cents for Ro_s}zge, rflvzleél ygul mention this paper, ddress Hal uckel, Wholesale Druggist: New York. 4 muggists, brightened with git in the empire fashion or of whatever material you | will, but they are always marvelous | studies of beautiful furniture. Gos- | sip says that Julien Gordon sleeps in | a bed shaped like a swan, with drapings | of laceabout it. Surely, siumberingin this | way, the songs of the swan should come to | her 'in_her dreams. Of a fashionable di- | vorcee it used to be said that her bed was like a huge hearse, heavy and black. It stood 1n the center of tiie Toom on a raised platform, which made it necessary to climb two steps to get to it. When it was first brought over from the other side the heavy top was lined with a French mirror, for the purchaser did not know that French ladies objected to this style of bed, but the truth was soon discovered, the looking-glass removed and rose-colored satin put in its place. Those who know say that this bed had a barren, cold look, and ail that it suggested was the opinion given of Raphael’s ‘‘Madonna’ by Carlyle’s servant—*It is expensive.” That funereal type is the sort of bed Queen Elizabeth ought to have slept in. This Queen of England was undoubtedly a woman of great strength of mind. i’o trivolous lace decorated her nightgowr; no rose-colored knots were here and there upon it, and no thin mulle made the gown in which she dreamed. No, indeed, her favorite nightgown was of purple velvet, trimmed elaborately with gold lace! This was sufficient reason for her remaining a virgin Queen. But to return to beds. Mlle. Mousseline must have a bed that looks simple and is | NEW TO-DAY. :Diiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii?)i‘ wn > g0 iz ) = o Pepper Sha- ke?up—ull the . @ manufactur- @ er had. Ag splendid g shape, satin @ finished and @ every pair @ packed in a @ neat llmx. Regular — L ricefiflc.butz they go on sale for Mon(fiy, Tuesdng’ ¢ * b 2 iy, s and Wednesday only at 25c PE PAIR, and Wednesday night ends it. L1 1 Thinking of some medium-grade Crockery or Glassware for that coun- try home of yours? We have pre- cisely the right things for such a pur- pose—and at Wholesale Prices. ¥ PRRVRRPERERPRR PR RPRRPPRRP BRI R PR ® THAT BIG CHINA STORE— A Quarter of a Block Below Shreve’s. & WANGENHEIM, STERNHEIM & CO., bt %528 and 530 Market St., %27 and 29 Sutter St., & BELOW MONTGOMERY. AEERAREEEE R AR AR » & RAAAE S G SRR EERREHEES 66 ® THE PHILADELPHIA eory s ELECTROLYSIS © H7OMARKET. ST, COANERTAYLOR: 2 4 (Querie Maze) Moo 2623 PEKMANE~\1'LY REMOVESSUPERFLUOUS hair by electricity at $1 a sitting; first sitting free; no scars left; moles, warts, etc., also re- moved. 22 Beary St., Near Kearny. Crepon Nouveaute, $1.25 and $1.40 Crepon Nouveaute, $1.75 and $2.25 Crepon Nouveante, $3.00 and $3.50 Crepon Nouveante, $4.00 and $5.00 Grenadine Faconne, $3 and $3.50 Grenadine Faconne, $4 and $5.00 Etamine Novelty, $2.50 and $3.50 Bengaline Faconne, $3 and $3.50 The above goods com- prise the most recent pro- ductions in black ma- terials. GOODS SENT C. O. D. SAMPLES FORWARDED, R. T. KENNEDY COMPANY. FREUDS CORSET HOUSE. JUST RECEIVED—A LARGE INVOICE OF Long-Waisted P. D. Sans Rival Corsets, C.P. a la irene Corset: Celebrated Koyal C. ¥legant N. T. Corsats, Unrivaled Werly Corsets, Bicycle Corsets. The Rclgnln‘ kashionable LOUIS PARISIAN CORSET and THE OLGA CO.SET. xv FIT GUARANTEED. ‘SLSIVAM AS10d1add ‘A01aoa AHAAOW WATIIN SSANNAL HNIO CORSETS MADE TO ORDER AND RE- PAIRED, We have no branch store on Market street. ated Catalogue sent free to any addres: Mail orders receive prompt attention. MAKE NO MISTAKE IN OUR ADDRESS M. FREUD & SOIV, 742744 MNarket St. and 10-12 Grant Ave, FOR Fine Tailoring Perfect Fit, Best of Workmanship at M Prices, go to JOE POHEIM THE TAILOR. PANTS mads to order from $4.00 SUITS mads to order from $15.00 MY $17.50 ano $35 SUITS ARE THE BIST N THE STATE. 201 and 203 8t., cor. Bush 124 arkot 8t. 1110 & 1112 Markst St SAN FRANCISGO.