The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, April 12, 1896, Page 26

26 AST Sunday our women were cer- tainly, in mostcases, correctly at- tired, as East it is no longer con- dered good form to appear in new hats or gowns on this joyful occasion. Some of the young people have been naving a gay dancing party this week, and never were the gowns prettier or fresher, and I beard some one remark that the girls who had observed Lent the most strictly seemed to enjoy the dance the most. I hear that until the trunks are packed for — the social ball will be kept roiling. The very popular bride and groom who live on the top of a hill are being gener- ally entertained. A large reception and several dinners will be given this week in their honor. There was a large tea in Oakland this week, and not a few invitations were sent over here. There was a crowd, so that means that the affair was a success, and one matron present I mistook for one of as so deliciously pretty in ilet of lovely pale blue taf- le stripes of pink roses and vest. The wearer bad hair, which was 1 filagree comb; but 1l sides I heard this a , on_ al bean in Oakland. belle hea en velvet, most becomi: ame completed the short elbo w T . A piquante brunette was effec a_corn-colored silk gown, shot hts and covered with meetin 7th ins 4 hosy Polk and Geary streets. n on Tuesday, the A the corners most se to many pl; and delicious refreshments wer red the ladies, one of the courses hay- | ing been prepared from a recipe-book pub- | THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, APRIL 12, 1896. I /I////I/llllllrlllll | i \\\\ PITTLLA lace. "At the neck is a_Medici effect of collar formed by three tabs on either side, trimmed with the embroidery and turned back to show a jabot of lace over pink chiffon. _Girls with lovely coloring will appre- ciate the description of a gown of cloth of a pretty color. The skirt is plain lined wnhfreen glace. The badice is swathed round the front, and over it falls a square, blb:llke' viece of heliotrope velvet, over which is a_piece of beautifully embroid- ered grass lawn. Three small straps of emerald green satin fastened with diamond buttons appear at the neck, where there is draped a collur of grass lawn turned over with tabs lined with green. The tout en- semble is delightfully springlike and highiy artistic, but such a gown can only be successfully carried out by one of the best of our dressmaker. The second illustration is of asimple but elegant gown of 10se-colored moire. It has a yoke effect of white net wonderfull embroidered in sequins, under which is white satin. The fashionable sleeves wrinkle to the waist. The hair of the Freny_ woman represented as wearing this rock is arranged in the latest style, the Pompadour puffs being very becoming to oval faces. A slim maiden with fluify golden hair will be much admired this summer when arrayed ina_gown of black-striped blue chine silk. The skirt is trimmed with a fourteen-inch ruffle. The waist has odd, s?unre-cut revers, which are covered with black and cream applique lace, and the vest is of light blue chiffon, accordion pleated, and is crossed by dainty little straps of black ribbon, with two good paste buttons on either side. A young married woman, with dusky hairand dark-brown eyes, will emphasize her charms when arrayed in a dress of miroiy moire of an odd shade of apricot. The skirt is perfect in its absolute sim- plicity, but the bodice is delightfully elaborate. The sleeves wrinkle to the wrist, where they are finished with a fall of lace. The vest is of a lighter shade of apricot and of chiffon and has on either side straps of miroir green velvet, which zre covered with the same costly lace which appears at the wrists, Fine buttons of blue stone are placed at intervale along the straps. The many times in the washtub without becom- ing more than half a shade paler. It hasa deep eollar of white muslin edged with lace, and two rows of insertion make it one of the daintiest of garments. Chevipt is quite a favorite material for very active young ones, as it is so stout and strong. Gingham will always be useful, and a pink one with a little black thread has three pieces of white in- sertion down the front laid over black satin ribbon. A black ribbon encircles the waist, and two frisky bows are perched on the shoulders. The short puffed sleeves have a sipilar band of insertion. A small but very plump little daughter looks re- markably well in this dress. The fichu continues to flourish greatly, and I thoroughly recommend using mous- seline de soie instead of silk mull, or chiffon, that is, if expense is any object; as, if you pay $1 50 per yard for the mous- seline de soie, it will stand cleaning; in fact, it will also look fresb for a longer time than either of the other fabrics, but the mull and chiffon look like a rag very quickly, and thus far I have not found any means of renovating them. Small Dresden buttons, displaying ex- quisite flowers, are 1o be seen on many stylish summer costumes. Now there is such a rage for aelft china Iex- pect to see delft buttons; in fact, I am surprised that I have not yet heard of e e | n)?eumnce. % here 1s a decided tendency shown to overtrim hats, especially the large ones, which should most ‘emphatically be fought, as no matter how perfecily a woman may otherwise be clad a topheavy appearance spoils the tout ensemblie com- pletely, and as we must wear our hats as far over the jforehead as possible, this ap- pearance is hard to avoid. However, alter we have worn our bats well forward | whil 3 3 | in silk or satin you would appear like a for a while the trimming will be better understood. ‘Wise young women have ceased to wear dowdy dresses when receiving at teas, comprehending that a perfectly fresh, crisp muslin is preferable to a soiled satin. As a result most of the girls look unusu- ally fetching, even when only women are invited, for women dress quite as much for each other as for the approval of the other sex. ‘White gloves are vanishing, excepting | diamond ornament, forms the sole trim- ming. A bonnet of black straw with a diadem of emeralds and diamonds and a ared 1o be the most | group of black and green quills at one Another | side and a ribbon of a roseate hue tied at 1ily attired in a skirt of | the back may correctly be called st: atin, and a Louis XVI coat | as may also a fanciful black straw, deco- mbroidered with a small | rated with small white straw balls, white acefully draped vest | and black feathers nod over the crown. A The stock was of a | single bunch of rich crimson roses give the | ish, and | needed touch of color, and I must not | forget to tell you that the ‘‘Hebe’ | togue, when composed of gold straw, with a black crinkled crinoline brim and beautiful with broad bows of black fulle striped with gold straw and a ames held their last black osprey on the ieft side, is well worth contemplating. The “Doris’’ toque, made itable home on one of | of a black fancy chip and crinoline brim is trimmed in front with rose ieaves under interesting historical = paper was|the brim and crushed roses. It is com- fi read by the hostess, which | pleted by a bow of petunia velvet, which sant reminiscences. | has hizh upstanding ends, but I'cannot vet leave the hats, as the picture ones, many of them, are appropriately sonamed. One of bebe chip has a fold of mignonette A DAINTY HOUSE DRESS. lished during the seventeentn century. | green velvet under the brim and a ban- Almost every Dame was present. organization of women is the most ex- clusive in the United States, many of our most prominent social and literary women being members. I regret that the Century Club breakfast will take place too late for me to tell you anything about it this week. On Monday evening I trust the Occi- dental parlors may be crowded, as sweet charity asks our aid and an excellent mu- sical programme will be presented. The Century Club will be the scene of a large reception on next Saturday, as the membership of Seauoia is large and each dsughter has three invitations at her dis- posal. Men will not be lacking, so with such popular hostesses one of the most brilliant events of the season is antici- | pated. Wedding-bells will ring right joyfully for more than one bonnie bride during the coming week. Hats and bonnets! I wonder if women ever really become indifferent to genuine Parisian conceptions composed of flow- ers and teathers, straw and horsehair, velvets ana ribbons, buckles and pins. Perhaps the new woman may find noth- ing interesting in an_“‘opening,” but the average woman is quite ready to listen to any amount of news concerning these in- teresting frivolities, as the most lovely of toilettes are spoiled unless properly com- pleted by a chic chapeau. One I should not object to owning has a rim wreathed with violet pansies and a crown covered with a delicious pleated frill of green tulle, & mass of violet flowers are beneath the brim at the back and a violet osprey is at the left side. Another equally pretty is made of green straw with a double filling of shot green silk round the crown, which is filled with the most delicate creeper leaves. This hat has a lining of white crinoline, and at the back there is a bunch of white cowslips which rests on the hair. A hat just designed is of gray straw, striped with very narrow black velvet rib- bons, bas a battlemented brim, and re- minds me of the Henry IV style. The only trimming consists of white camellias. A charming little bonnet—a Paris—has a crown of white satin, ornamented with an applique of brocaded flowers upon it, traced with sequins. A group of black quills set ip a bow of tulle, clasped with a This | deaux of roses, a plume of black tips and another band of velvet round the crown. Long strings of ribbon veivet the same shade of green extend gracefully from the back. A Versaitles hat wjll probably be re- cgived with even greater favor. It hasa handsome feather mount at one side and a bow of broad satin ribbon_ on the oppo- site side. Three handsome tips hang over the brim. . A smart cycling hat is to be had in Pan- ama straw. It is trimmed with black vel- vet ribbon and two upstanding quills. A similar hat was made appropriate for a young girl’s best hat by placing shaded dark green wings upon it, and a bunch of delicate roses in shades of pink. While thinking of our pretty girlsI see that a New York authority remarks: A pretty hat easily maae 15 suggested by selectinga broad brim black tulle frame, covering it fully with black tulle, and enwreathing it with brim roses having quantities of fol- iage. Then tie broad tulle bows to stretch across the hat, turn it up in the back with tulle porepons and roses. A yet younger girl, if she has a pretty color, will look well in a white chip hat with a tulie scarf wound round the brim. At the sides should be upstanding plisse fans of tulle and erect among the plisses should be a bunch of roses. The Panamas are now much seen and are of the simplest description; for in- stance, one of brown straw is trimmed with a black ribbon, three black quills and a lovely bunch of cowslips. In the hands of agood milliner these materials are ca- pable of making a stylish if simple hat which will be useful on many occasions. A traveling hat, worn by a faultlessiy gowned young matron, was of white twist straw with a smart bow of black ribbon velvet at one side, and a ruche of black tulle surrounding the crown. It is no easy matter to suggesta satisfac- tory hat for a middle-aged matron, so I am glad to see the illustration of an excel- lent one. The brim is shallow at the back and broad in front, and has a rather tall crown. This model is carried out in the new fancy brilliant straw of a Tuscan color. The brim is lined with black chip, curving on one side like a Gainsborough, while the opposite side has a pretty arch and droops close over the hair gt the back. The trimming is entirely feathers, with an osprey on one side. Lace or tulle and ribbons may also be used, but the feathers, having a soitening effect, are most be- coming. Straw of a pink shade interplaited with a narrow straw-colored beading is used for a youthful hat, which is turned up at the side, trimmed in the front and back with honeysuckle and has on either side black velvet rosettes, an osprey standing directly |in the center in front. This bat is an | Enelish model, for in France foliage is used only at the back of hats, and in Lon- don, as usual, many floral toques will be | s year, for at the leading milliners y toques composed of tulle and flow- | ers are in great demand, and ivy has been | | introduced into many of the spring models | with good results. Cowslips arein demand | | for the time being. Bonnets having a | small bigh crown are coming in. Stylish | ones are seen of biack and white straw. | Arich little sackcoat in black poult de | sole is pessessed by one of Jast season's debutantes. It has tiny, artistic sleeves, a yoke richly embroidered in jet, which de- scends in strips to a front of black ac- cordion pleated chiffon, through which is seen the silk, which lines this odd gar- | ment, and it is a pink shot giace. A sim- | ple cape for this season iooks well on a firigm schoolgirl. It is of a fine fawn-col- ored cloth, edged with knife pleatings of changeable green glace silk, which'forms | a ruche around the neck. The lining is of | the same silk. The whalebacked short | coat has again appeared and a good one | from a celebrated house is of 4 pale-green cloth, trimmed and braided front and back with black braid, and has a well- shaped collar and cuffs of white kid. For a bride what could be prettier for evening wear than a cape of miroir velyet with a rich flounce of old yellow Venetian lace put on with a ruching of black chiffon and further beautified with a wonderful embroidery of various colors liberally diamante? The once well-liked pelisse is coming again into style. One handsome model just completed for a stvlish woman is of pale veilow and old rose brocade with | stolelike ends of rose-colored velvet with | anapplique of yellow guipure. Another of gray brocade was desigued by the same firm and is trimmed down the front with | treble ruchings of accordion-pleated gray | chiffon, and over each shoulder isa stripe | of grebe feathers caught with a bunch of | | violets in front and a frill of soft lace. The | collar is a la Maurie Antoinette and has | frills of tiny gray feathers. | Grebe makes a beautiful trimming and Iam sure you would all admire a cloak for evening wear of gray satin, with a scroll design on violet velvet. Grebe also edges | this garment. The sleeves are of the vio- let velvet. For the same purpose is a | quaint little coat of pearl gray satin, cov- | ered with a large floral design in yellow and green. The bodice is formed of a piece | of black lace over yellow satin. A stately grandmother is a picture in a | bandsome mantle, in cape form, of black poult de soie, which is covered with bead | embroidery and an applique of exquisite guipure. A ruff of black chiffon completes it, and this is edged with creamy Valen- ciennes. For this same grandmother has been de- signed a theater wrap of a black brocade, with bold figures in violet velvet. The reveres, of the same material, are orna- mented. Two more reveres are of richly beautiful lace and passementerie. This | entire wrap is lined with a changeable mauve satin. One of the simplest and prettiest of | little capes was in one of our store-win- | dows to-day. It consists of two pinked ruftles by " changeable blue taffeta siik, | | over which were ruffles of knife-pleatea | grass cloth, edged with white Valenci- ennes. The grass cloth used was the $1 50 per yard quality. Down the front the grass cloth was laid in small pleats, two small buckles apparently holding them in place on each side. A liace edge ruche of the grass cloth compieted it. Such a cape | can very easily be made at home by any | woman at all clever with her needle. A very excellent gown from the estab- | lishment of a well-known English tailor is | made of an olive green face cloth, trimmed and piped with a turquoise biue under- | | waistcoat. ~ The front of the bodice is traced with black and gold braia. The same design appears on the skirt. The initiated can understand the perfect suc- cess of this toilet when carried out by an artist and tbe fearful looking affair most | tailors would make of it, for alas, artists are few in number and_hard to discover. Very appropriate for Burlmgame would be a gown from the same establishment of a drab Scotch tweed which has a touch of blue in it. The waistcoat is a blue ana white check which repeats the tone of the tweed. From Redfern’s comes a delightful model of coarse-grained blue alpaca. The coat is piped with white suede, a belt of the same being round the waist, the revers displaying a front of lilac-tinted silk florally patterred in a Louis Seize design and striped down the center with a band of nl:e white suede embroidered in jet and steel. Canvas cloths are increasing in popu- larity. A dark blue one has been made up with an unusually good bodice in the Russian style of a full, loose, low bodice over a high one. This one was worked all over with minute horizontal rows of gray cord, interspersed with lettes and beads in front; at the top of ti was_ a straight four-inch band of ecru lace, and inside the neck, forming also the collar-band, was a brilliant orange and white chine glace silk; over this the skirt fastened with a jeweled band. The sleeves are unusually graceful. Many dressmakers say that the Russian blouse will shortly be much worn. Numerous pretty bodices are being trimmed with the new silk run lace. Basques are smail and most of the little frills are edged with narrow black velvet or ribbon. Thbe gown I have had our artist copy for you to-day is made of apple-green glace silk with a bodice pointed just below the waist over a basque of cream-colored lace of superior detail, the front embroidered in a wondrous way with pale pink, blue and green, with the leaves and flowers of lace.” Each side of the skirt is a cascade of A RECHERCHE TOILET. finishing touch is given by a belt of truly exquisite passementerie. A gown of goft black broche, with spots of silver gray, has a skirt with a novel drapery and a bodice trimmed with fine black lace and rosettes of black satin rib- bons. This most appropriate for a ma- tron whose hair is be ginning to be touched with silyer. Smart women will, many of them, in- clude in their summer outfit an evening gown of black and white silk, as they do not appeal to the taste of ordinary people, and, as I remarked previously, a skirt of cream-white mobair, heavy pique or serge, will be in great vogue again, and the most chic of silk bodices and shirt waists will be worn with them. Speaking of shirts re- minds me that one of the favorites is com- posed of the finest linen lawn, embroid- ered by hand, with a small turned-down collar ‘at the neck; the cuffs match the collar, all being edged with a small frill of real Valenciennes lace. These shirts may be had in all of the new and delicate shades and cost $15, as the insertions used are of unusual fineness and are intro- duced with excellent effect. The grass- linen shirt with frills of itself, lace edged, 1s not to be despised. ‘The Spanish flounce is to be much used on our petticoats and organdy skirts. Such skirts should not be gored at all, so that they may be drawn with cords for a distance below the waist or pressed into side pleats the entire length of the back widths. This produces an excelient effect, but the skirt must be pressed each time it is worn. Elbow sleeves will be the rule for ail but street gowns. Beige grass linen is becom- ing to almost ail complexions, so large quantities are being sold,and for warm weather it is much fighter and more com fortable than the heavier linen twills Such frocks are simply and daintily trimmed with many yards of lace and rib- bons. This season collets or short collars differ from those of last by being much more claborately and beantifully trimmed. Felix is making up some’ that add a greater luster than ever to his name. I wonder if_the little girls ever think I do not write about their frocks frequently enough. Well, at all events, I think about you all very frequently, and to-day I want you to read these few lines from Vogue, as they so nicely express just what I wished to speak about this week. In New York such a gown would cost $13 50, but if you make it at home it will be much less expensive. ‘‘A most exquisite little frock is made of plain twine-colored batiste. The batiste is laid in a broad box pleat in the middle of the bodice in front, either side of the gle_n bordered with very fine Swiss em- roidery of a lacy pointed pattern. From the shoulder, either side of the embroidery, Tuns a black velvet ribbon to the waist, where it is ended with a full rosette of the embroidery. There is a large pear! button in the center of the rosette. Around the bigh standing collarat the neck the velvet ribbon is loosely laid, and the embroidery turns back over the velvet in a loose collar.” Mn'ny mothers complain about the chil- dren’s'dresses shrinking and losing their color. In the first ulgnce cotton goods should always be shrunk before they are cut out and in the second place it is cheaper in the end_to purchase expensive aterials, well dyed, and send them to a good laundry if you cannot have them done upat home. Blue washes better than pink and I have seen a dear little frock of pale-green French chintz which Yas been for evening wear—fashionable calls. One of the poorest economies in the world is to purchase so-called cheap gloves, for, to quote a remark Charles Kingsley made about something else, they are ‘“cheap and nasty.” MARCELLA. — FOR MEN. If a black cutaway is not desired a brown or gray is stylish for semi-morning wear. An excellent suit can be made from plaid in which gray and black are the keynote, with just a thread of red running through the symphony. Scotch goods or cheviots should be selected, as never have we had a more excellent selection to choose from. Trousers are being cut straight with a sprinz bottom, but they must not be too full, and $§15 should not be grudged for a well-made pair. 1 White waistcoats should only be worn | in the evening and white gloves with black stitching have never been worn in the streets in this country, although they have been by extremists, as a fad, in botn London and Paris, but our men have had the good sense to wear them with their | frock coats at afternoon weddings onlv. Sack coats should never be made with a fly front, as tashionabie men will not wear them. 5 Waistcoats are to be made moderately igh. More gray and checked cloths are being that | | So, when I said “white,” she looked at me | | and answered: BAB DISCUSSES DRESSES, The Colors and Shades the Blondes and Brunettes Should Wear. PALE BLUE FOR DARK WOMEN. The Sweet Res: Pink Is for the Golden-Haired and Gives Them Lovely Color. NEW YORK, April 7, 1896. — There was no doubt about it. She was an artist in dressmaking. But unfortunate- ly for the rest of the world she had in some way or another inherited millio could only give her friends advice. Most of them listened and refused to accept it. I am among the few who appreciate her. “On you? With your | pale face? Never, unless you have it in; some soft, woolen stuff, which will seem to | drape you and make soft folds, forcing the white to seem caressing, whereas if it were frightened corpse chasing around in search of your past sins. Women don’t consider fabrics enough; they seem to think that if they get a color that is becoming all is at- taineg; and yet, take a stout woman and put her in black satin—she looks three times her 196 pounds. Put her in black cashmere, or black cloth, properly made, and you speak of her as plump, and won- der that anybody ever called her fat. “‘Then there is blue—people have an idea that every young girl can wear it. It makes the dainty blonde maiden, who ought to look like one of Watteau’s young women—and they are, always excepting their waists, perfect representatives of health—look like a frozen lady, a lady who might have been picked up at the north pole. Here there is no question of fabric; pale blue belongs exclusively to the bru- nette. It hasa curious way, even if the brunette has a sallow skin, of making that skin Jook less sallow and more olive. Pink, the veritable sweet rose color, fades when1tis put on a brunette. From the color standpoint, she is too strong for it, | while on the blonde it retains all its own | beauty, makes her cheeks glow. brings out the gold of her hair, while the blue of her eyes, by contrast, match the June sky. You are the type that want red—brilliant, glowing red. Not crimson, not purplish Ted, but the clear, bright red that is always the envy of the Quakeress, A bit of it in your hat makes your eyes brighter, makes your dull hair glossier, ana sheds, uncon- sciously, a shadow of itself on your pale checks. ' The average woman doesn’t value red as she should. There ought to be a set of redl rosettes in the chest of drawers in every woman's dressing-room, for there always comes a day when she needs them. “Black? Black, like white, is the refuge of the afflicted, and yet, how smart a black tailor-made gown is] How elegant a black | velvet dinner dress 1s! And how beauti- ful a black tulle, spangled with gold be- comes when it is worn by the belle of the ball! I have never been able to agree with | the elder Worth in his dislike of black. | He claimed that black in bringing out beauties also brought out defects, and | that elderly women who wore it simply intensified ‘their lack of youth and the number of their wrinkles. 1Oh, ves; 1 remember very well when you wrote and asked him to send youa black dinner dress. And there arrived a black satin, elaborate with rosettes and trimmings, that shaded from rose pink to deep magenta. And you wept. And wept bitterly. And wore the frock but once, and felt the night you wore it that if it had been a rippling stream, near some town, l NEW TO-DAY. PRV Y VRPERP P RRP R Ry 1 e SEESAS AR A ASA AL LR ERbtba g * - A DRESDEN CLOCK, $2.60. Porcelain Clocks, hand-painted in colors and gold, are very popular. ‘¢ Eight handsome styles 2o on sale at | @ one-third less than regular price: FS until Wednesday night—$1 80, $2 25, $ 9245, $260 and $490. The clock ES: hown above at $2 60 is eight inches # high. See them in the window. » PERVRPRPRYRERP PP RIRP PR IVY L1 * A b3 * :THAT BIG CHINA STORE— | ® A Quarter of a Block Below Shrave’s. | ® WANGENHEIM, STERNEEIN & 0. % 528 and 530 Market St. | %27 and 29 Sutter St., | » BELOW MONTGOMERY. | SAAASRAAAACAASEAESE NS imported than any other kinds, and some | tailors have not yet relinquished the idea | that they can eventually persuade men of | fashion shortly to appear in snuff-colored frock coats. It is a positive fact that among the pat- | terns of linens for shirts just recrived in New York there is one of ‘‘adim green with pink stripes and at intervals large yellow roses.” It seems impossibie that any one would wear such a design. *“It re- calls,” as Him says, “one of the hideous old wallpapers which used to disfigure our grandparents’ rooms,”’ and this authority u{a that for his part he intends to select *‘the dark marine blues, the vivid cinna- mon pinks and the deep lilacs in stripes, and these colored backgrounds with fleur- de-lys upon them; or, again, a few of white, on which are sprayed dainty bunches of forget-me-nots or simple | branches of black ana blue, or, perhaps, a tiny garland of coral.” Now, all such things are matters of taste, but assuredly I will never be seen going around with forget-me-nots wandering over my manly chest, and the new greens and yellows [ will carefully avoid, and then there are be- ing shown East some absolutely absurd patterns also for shirts in tartan plaids, “Him’ remarks: *I am told by the high English authorities that the London man intends returning to the flower-pot silk hat, such as we sometimes meet in Leech’s sketches, or again, see on the boulevards of the other side of the Seine—those of the Latin quarter. Shall we all resemble these queer French artists, who are very pic- turesque with the Luxembourg and its stiff gardens and rectangular beauties for a background. Ido not wish to look as if I came from an insane poster. In the United States the Dunlap hat has a very narrow brim and a somewhat bell-shaped crown. The brim is curled a little. fbe Derbies are low in the crown and brown in color. The radius of the straw hat at this early season has not yet been determine C. C. ————— IF YOU ACHE or get hurt, have sore throat or tonsilitis, try Mitchell’s Magic Lotion. b 22 Geary St., Near Kearny. Black Figured Alpaca—40¢ Yard Black Figured Mohair—50¢ Yard Black Figured Mohair—75¢ Yard Black Figured Mohair—$1 00 Yard u would have been damned by all those vyv':m had to endure it. Then you did a very wise thing. You had all_the trim- ming taken off, and cast the bodice, garish with crimson, to one side. There was made for you a black broadcloth train which contrasted magnificently with the satin sides and front, and d'to go with this there was 8 bodice composed partly of broadcloth and partly of satin,” with sleeves of satin, crossed by bands of jet; just such a sleeve as Marguerite of Valoise wore. There Worth made one of his mistakes. Black is becoming to some women, but unfortu- nately early in his working days this m‘-nsi in dressmaking saw what is known as ‘the best black silk’ of an American woman, and he shuddered. It was coarse of grain and scant of skirt; it was [xlled so that the lack of bust was conspicuous and the sleeves were so tight tbat an easy move- ment of either arm was impossible. He told me this himself, so I never blamed him for not wanting to send black dresses to American women; but remem- ber always what say that whether you are young or old, slender or stout, there are wonderful possibilties in black, provided always you choose the right fabric and then dispose of your ‘ma- terial properly. 1 remember once when T was in a fashionable tailor-shop I met Mrs. Embonpoint, who is a great friena of mine; che said: ‘Oh, my dear, aren’t these tailor-made gowns fine? These per- fectly simple gowns mean so mnch to the women who are inclined to be stout.” And I looked at her with dismay. The woman who had made ker stays pulled her in at the waist and so forced the extra flesh to go above and below the waist line in a way that was not artistic, and, | although the tailor did not_want to do it, she insisted on havinga plain, clgsrflumg skirt and an_equaliv plain bodica. An: the result? Well, the result was thatall the fat was brought out to advantage, to doubtful advantage, where a few folds of the material might have hid it, and be- tween staymaker and her own lack of artistic dressing, Mrs. Embonpoint looked more like the minute glass with which I time my eggs at breskfast than a well- shaped woman. And, my dear, with this she was going to wear one of those new hats wreathed with roses! And nature gave her a long nose! ““You know one of those poke-over hats worn by 2 woman with a long nose makes her look like the essence of curiosity in feminine form. A hat tilted way over the face has a reason for existence; but it is for the girl with the over-high forehead or the tip-tilted nose, and every other type should let it severely alone.” Bas. NEW TO-DAY. (TYmPARIS Colored Dress Goods! Our immense assortment of all the Latest Fabries has heen further aug- mented by the addition of many foreign NOVELTIES! JUST RECEIVED— We call particular attention to the following SPECIALS! 25 pieces 55-inch All- wool Mohair Serge 75 (navy blue only), c worth $I......... Per Yd 15 pieces 50-inch Two-toned Cre- pons, very stylish Ingst s S PeE YA 25 pieces 38-inch Im- ported All - wool 50“ Plaids.. oo PeeNid 18 pieces 40 - inch Silk and Wool Jacquard figure... Per Yd 20 pieces 49 -inch Q4,50 Rich $1 = Mohairs.......... Per Yd r .00 and choice color- TR .00 Novelty Suitings, 31 e Iridescent SE HABLA ESPANOL. G. VERDER & CO., SE. Cor. Geary and Grant Ave. VILLE DE PARIS. BRANCH HOUSE, LOS ANGELES. FREUDS CORSET HOUSE. JUST RECEIVED—A LARGE INVOICE OF Long-Waisted P. D. Sans Rival Corsets, J+ P. & In irene Corsets, Celebrated Koyal C. T. Corset Xle| . T. ¥rench Corsets, rivaled Werly Corsets, Bicycle Corsets. The Rel‘nlnx shionable LOUIS PAKISI CORSET and THE OLGA CO SET. L] < cg ] Black Figured Mohair—$1 25 Yard Black Figured Sicilian—75¢ Yard Black Figured Sicilian—$1 00 Ya 54-inch Iron Alpaca— 50c yard. 46-inch”French Coat- FIT GUARANTEED, Spagial:: EF~ Carrying only Black Goods, we can “offer our patrons by far a Iarger assortment than can be found elsewhere, and at the very lowest prices. R. T. KENNEDY COMPANY. ing Serge—b0c yd. 48-inch Fine Frel{ge Serge—50c yard. ‘SLSIVAL ASI0dINdT ‘HOTa0d TAAOW HATIIW SSHNNAL FNIAN CORSETS MADE TO ORDER AND RE- PAIRED, ow. lnlva n0 branch store on Market street. ur Illustrated Cat; A Tt alogue sent free to Mail orders receive Pprompt attention. MAKE NO MISTAKE IN OUR ADDRESS M. FREUD o soxn, 742-744 MNarket St. and 10-12 Grant Ave,