The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, March 8, 1896, Page 19

N\ THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, MARCH 8, 1896. 19 OW rapidly the days fly The" lectures, concerts, Shakespearean readings, etc., which are consid- ered proper relaxations at |hx.~'1 season, have all been soexcellent | that we have not willingly missed one of | them, and they have taken up every spare moment during the daytime. This week I bave heard of a highly enjoyable euchre party which: was given in the Western | Addition on Thursday evening; numerous | have been the informal little teas and musicales, at all of which one hears pretty complimentary remarks concerning the | charming debutante whose engagement | has just been announced. How seldom | does an engagement cause such general | satisfaction and felicitation, for never has | a beile had more lovely manners. And all girls should remember that any one can be rude and brusque, but that more of | them would be belles were they to culti- | vate unselfishness, a low, gentle voice—"‘a most excellent thing in a woman’’—and et manners. It is dehightful to be | beautiful, but in the end other qualifica- tions are more necessa | We all sincerely regretted the cause | which necessitated the postponement of | the reception which was to have been | given on the at the biz house quite on | the top of Pacific avenue. Not a few of us are thinking abont Santa Barbara anu Los Angeles and are planning to enjoy the fete and festival, and most of us w on be flying around attending ope I received one milliner's card | announcing her spring exhibition of hats | the day of the snowstorm (and if this | weather continues I shall return to a dis- | cussion of velvets, furs and perhaps skat- | ing costumes, as now the contemplation | of mulls and muslins is not 1n the least to my taste), and here about two weeks ago we were lo up last year's shirt- | sts and cons gicecream and sodas | sherbets, but then I have always said | rvelous climate, and I like it hat tricks the elements play us. I have a few illustrations to i The mourning gown has a new make of bodice and sleeves, with a full skirt admirably adapted to any black ma- terial. Observe the way in which the | folds in the front of the bodice fall; the ful bows and buitons at the waist. 1e collar cape is formed of ribbons with jet buttons, the ironts gracefully falling over the sleeves and back and front. It is not only distinctive, but original as well. The dinner dress for a matron is, as you | see, simple and effective. The skirt is of | the best duchess satin and the bodice of the same, the biouse t being produced with blac on ich are seven fine ruffles an ions of rare lace. Any dark rick effective, but black is by | far the most ful, as the skirt can be | utilized with so many waists. The last model is from Paris airect, and is very exquisite, being of plain pink oir veivet. The deep lace adorning he low-cut neck is, in the original, almost priceless, and the buttons are fit for a| princess, as they are of picked pearls, one | large pink one being in the center of each. Pearl-colored glace taffeta linesit through- | out, ruches of pearl and pink compieting | it around the bottom. Few of us can have | such a creation reproduced, but the ex- quisitely graceful cut and simple arrange- | ment of lace may be profitably carried out | ; an expert dressmaker with surprising- zood results for a customer with a well- proportioned figure. | At this season novelties are hard to find, | and what will be accepted styles for the spring and summer of '99 can only be guessed at. The new designs and confec- tions now flooding the country will be carefully scrutinized by fashionable wo- men, and all good pointscombined and toned down to suit their peculiar styles of feminine loveliness. The latest budget from Panis inforias us that light suede gloves are to take the place of white kid | this spring, and I am sincerely thankiul | for this expected change, expected firstly because the white kid has become too common for the smart woman any longer to tolerate, and secondly because it looks soiled after two hours’ wear. However, this has not prevented some women from apparently wearing the same pair day in and day out for two weeks, regardless of | zppearance, but I am not again going to indulge in remarks about soiled gloves, as you may remember I said a good deal on | the subject not long ago.and two days | after my appeal for clean gloves a woman satin front of me with the very worst | gloves 1 have ever gazed upon. I was sim- ply fascinated by her hands, which seemed | 1o afford her & strange satisiaction to con- | template, otberwise she was well turned | ont. That person should be induced to always wear black gloves in future. | I remember a dear old Southern gentle- woman saying to her granddaughter, “My | chiid, a lady may have to wear a shabby gown, but ehe always will strive to have her gloves and shoes of the best quality, | and even if they are old at least they can be kept in perfect order.” Tuere is 2 little | typewriter in this City who supports ber- self and mother entirely by her exertions. Of course there may be many such, but this one interests me, for sheistbe trim- | mest bit of a woman possible. Her dark blue serge dress is always well brashed, the binding around the bottom is invaria- bly fresh and clean, and she wears the neatest collars and cuffs, which are fresh every morning, and her gloves and shoes are never minus a button, but I must not describe ber anv further,because you might know ber if I did. However, I am certain if she ever marries she will -marry well, as men are not slow to appreciate such at- tractive points in a woman. Lo Among the girls who are to be pitied are those who have to keep up appearances on little or nothing because they or their parents consider it beneath their dignity iodo anything but try and secure rica husbands. They wonder they do not suc- ceed, and fairly shudder when they hear that Jack, on whom they had all beamed, had actuaily married a schoolteacher or a tvpewriter, forgetting that the bricht face and, trim, well-groomed appearance was far more attractive than their blase beauty, which too frequently is not even enhanced | tell him your shirtwaist must be as care- | for such is really the case. | eilk around the edge, or with a tiny ed, by attractive apparel; on the contrary, only too often their finery is limp and soiled. Fortunately this class of girls shows a decided tendency to diminish, for most of them are coming to the conclusion that there is nothing undignihed in honest work and that the securing of a wealthy husband is not the one end and object of a an’s existence. ButI nad no idea ng a lecture so let us change the subject and talk about shirtwaists, which be worn as much as last summer, ving an exception to the rule, that asa le becomes convenient it iz no longer fashionable, but remember, there are shirt- aists and shirtwaists. Thousands of -made orfes are sold here dur- month, and for the girl with | ing eve: the regulation figure they are very we'l,. but few smart women purchase them. The up-to-date matron and maiden 1ally has bers made to order by one of he best haberdashers in the City. While walking up one of our principal streets a few hours ago, I noticed in the window of one of the swellest men’s storse here a very excellent shirtwaist; it was of a fine piece of goods of a light ecru shade, through which ran narrow white lines about an inch apart. The style of this waist was indisputable, so I entered at once and made inquiries, and as I know you may want just such a garment I will tell you what I was informed. You can have a shirt made just like the model for $250if you furnish the material, but if u do not it will cost you between $4 and $5, according to the grade of material se- lected, and you can feel certain that vou not have your waist duplicated, which is a real satisfaction in a small city. It does seem a good deal, perhaps, to give $5 forso simple a garment, but I assire you that you will find it cheaper in the | end to have the correct thing, and scarcely any ready-made waist ever fits properly arouna the neck. I presume, however, that a special price might be made when & dozen waists are ordered, but under all circumstances do not imagine that you can go to any fash- ionable summer resort and feel comtort- able in a cheap, bad!y cat, ili-fitting shirt- waist. You will probably look, unless a | recuiar Veous, like a meal bag, and if father or husband objects to the outlay fully cut and made ss one of his shirts, In New York fancy shirtwaists vary in price from 69 cents to $35. The cotton ready-made shirt may be had in a good cotton and well sewn here at about the same figure, but as yet I have not investi- cated the high-priced new ones which have doubtless already arrived. East, shirts, made of plain-colored French cam- bric, are trimmed with fine edging and insertion; the insertion is worked in raised dots, which match the shirt in color. These waists are imported and rank among the noveities. They cost about $425. For an additional quarter | The charms of such a gown can be ima, may be had in this same style fine French ginghams made upon the bias. These are | gay and pretty. Twine-colored linen ones | with white cuffs and collars are gooa, and | are worked in the same color. They are | more blouse-like in styles. Twine-colored ! wash batistes are attractive, with collars | ana cuffs of very fine white muslin edged | with narrow lace; the front plait may also be edged with Iace, or the collar, cuffs and | front plait can all be covered with a very fine embroidered muslin, edged with lace. Some of the expensive waists really do not come under the bead of shirtwaists, nevertheless they are so classified, | although spoken of as bodices, i Our parasols are to change but little in style this year. Those with pale or| white grounds over which are scattered brilliant flowers in conventional and ar- tic designs will be the favorites, and the most chic have those delightful Louis XV stripes on a white surface witn tiny garlands. Toe ribbons this summer ars marvels of beauty, for on evening irocks are to be seen gold ribbons, silver ones, and chine ribbon will be enriched with sequins, jewels and lace, and the simplest of gowns | composed of organdy, lawn, muslin, jaconet or batiste will be beautified with exquisite ribbons. i ] Veils are always interesting topics in San Francisco, where they are well nigh indispensabie, especially in the summer, 0 it 18 well to know that plain black tulle, | i correct, and may oll in white-floss i ging of very narrow fine reai lace. The ends are tied in a full bow upon the brim of the hat at the back and allowed to follow their sweet will instead of being tucked away | out of sight. I like to see the ends crossed | at the back and pinned in position with a | small ornamental pin much better than | the bow, for after a bow has been tied say half a dozen times the veil is spoiled. The grace and beauty of the plain skirt have laid such a hold on the affections of most women that the trimmed and fiounced skirts, which are now especially | designed for cvening wear, are not being | received with enthusiasm. A delightful | white satin was lately worn; the corsage ornamented with large revers, thickly em- broidered by hand in pearls and silver thread. These revers fell over the sleeves, which were of the finest point de Brux- elles. A large tablier of the same delicate lace adorned the skirt, which was other- wise plain, much gored, very full at the hem. From all ball dresses the train has van- ished. White brocade has recently been used considerably in combinaticn with white satin, and the results are good. A white brocade was admired which had a wide. perfectly plain skirt and large folds of tulle on the bodice, embroidered with pearls in a pattern of marguerites. Hand-painted gowns are growing in fa- vor, and one of the very handsomest court dresses worn at the last Dublin drawing- room was of green satin. A huge bunch of exquisitely painted malmaisons adorned | the left side of the skirt. They were won- deriully shaded, being the work of an ex: cellentartist. The bodice wasdraped with | rare oriental embroidery, in which were | used pearls, emeraids and zold paillettes, | which looked as though held in place by a cluster of malmaisons. The sleeves ~of green chiffon terminated in a band of simi- | lar oriental embroidery. The train was of rose-colored velvet, lined with green and draped with green chiffon. The mantle worn with this creation was of pink velvet, lined with cream satin and arranged with chiffon, lace and a trimming of gold thread and green and pink sequins. It had large revets, lined with cream satin, edged with this galon, the shoulder drapery be- ing in deeply accentuated points. . A model Paris toilet is descrived as hav- ing a low corsage vest and godet skirt or- namented with hand-painted wreaths, sprays, lovers’ knots which enliven the pointed front and deseribe two panels on either side of the skirt framing of pearl traceries. Waistcoat in veloars, miroir, Vvieux rose, trimmed with paste buttons. Balloon sleeves in velvet, finished off with a gaged band in taffeta, veiled with the upper part of the mechlin lace frilling. erchief epaulets, with jabot in yellow lace. A single rose at the side. Turquoise blue and black are to be ex- tensively seen in combination. For ex- ample, a godet skirt of duchesse satin of a turquoise blue shade has a low round blouse composed of black satin bands, which_sparkles with exquisite jeweled embroidery. The bodice has epauletzes of black ostrich plumes, which aiso edge it around the neck. The waistband is of folded black satin. The sleeves are short puffs of miroir velvet, which matches the skirt. They are finished with a band in black satin which ties in a sprightly bow. ined. With a change of sl€eves this beauti- ful bodice might do duty with several skirts, making a considerable saving if necessary. Just as described, it would be very handsome with a skirt of black satin. All of the newest cloth costumes show white facings, white waistcoats and cuff, while some of the darkest stuffs are braided stance, I have just been asked about the | style of sleeves for spring and summer, but the “‘anxious subscriber” doas not say for what style of gown, muslin or cloth, day or evening, 0 I can only repeat what I hiave already said, the principal change in our d 'zsses will be in the sleeves, and so0 excellent an authority as Vogue says: “We are certain that the old sleeve model | is to return, not the glove-fitting one, but | the moderately close sleeve we wore before | the balloon came in”’; and in speaking of blouse-coats for early spring, Harper's Bazar says ‘“sleeves are of gigot shape, {'or the straight bishop sleeve.” " So if my | inquirer wants a safe style fora wash frock let her Lave a bishop sleeve; iffor a cloth I recommend the gigot. Please remember aiso in asking ques- tions to state whether the style is desired | for a woman, young girl or child, as I | want to make my information as exact as possiple; and I also want to know whether the design is for a short or slender, stout or thin snbject. For a thin woman a louse front is stylish. Made according to | the new model such waists must always have a perfectly fitted foundation. Round | boaices, stylishly trimmed, are being well | received. For evening wear the newest bodices have jacket effects, the revers | opening over a lace vest; others are | bloused. The lendmfi fashion papers ' abound in plates which offer good sugges- | tions, and any of the papers I mention are | to be relied on. | Mohair and cheviot will be much worn | and the jacket bodice model is the favorite | for them, as the vest and plastron admit | of many variations. Such dresses depena MOURNING GOWN. in white. Indeed, the keynotes of the spring fashions are black and white, so many pretty white bodices are bein lanned of white satin, as when of a gong | quality it will clean perfectly, and speak- ing from experience I should state that white satin will look clean quite as long as pale green, pink, blue or buff. Many waists of this fabric are worn with black tailor jackets, the swellest of which have a Iining of it. With such a costume let me recommend a jaunty littie black hat of the new braid, trimmed with a large white osprey at one side, and at the back violets and three or four white gar- denias. ‘Those who are more economical can substitute a black satin blouse waist buttoned with tiny .diamond buttons, Such blouses must have a collar or vest of the new black lisse with the white lace applique. A blouse which has caused many com- plimentary remarks wherever worn is of pale yellow chiffon an¢ lace. ¥he outhnes are early Victorian. It is trimmed with black veivet covered with an applique of creamy lace. A simple little spring costume consists of a coat and skirt.of petunia frieze cloth, the skirt made with a short full basque and quaintly cut revers. The waistcoatis of white face cloth, braidea in gold, and fas- tening down the center with tiny gold but- tons. Another, :‘rllually good, is in hussar blue face cloth. The short full basque is very smart in appearance, and the full, drooping shoulder pieces and straps across the bodice from bust to waist give a de- cided touch of novelty. The vest is of white cloth braided in a darker shade of blne. The handsomest tailor dresses are all beantified with the loveliest of jeweled buttons which, by contrast, look especially well on dark, rouch surfaces, and the smartest of jackets are now making their appearance. One of the latest models is from rue de la Paix, a light Havana cloth, warm, brilliant in tone, and so becoming gener- ally. The jacket is longer than those we are wearing and the basque does not rip- le at all, lies merely in graceful ease. A Eeaded passementerie of steel and jet cover the seams. The sleeves are the usual gigot coat medel. The cachet of this garment lies in the hood, for it is a' genuine Trianon, such as the merry queen often wore going to her toy palace. A Trianon | capuchin lies flat across the shoulders and | bust and then rolls up below very grace- fully with a spring that eives great width across the shoulders and increases the slenderness of the waist. A large doubie jeweled ciasp fastens the hood at the bust, and when fur with stole ends is worn the ends are slipped under; with this is worn a very modish black cloth skirt. When writing to Marcella, correspond- ents must not neglect to give their name and address, and they should make their questions as explicit’ as possible; for in- entirely for their cachet on their graceful hanging and perfect fit, as they are an- tirely destitute cf trimming of any descrip- ust designed for the tion. A dressy bodice‘f' Riviera is described as having a close-fit- ting under bodice which is made in white satin of soft chiffon, with horizontal bands of black lace insertion, and over this | bright cerise or petunia velvet, satin or | brocade, are draped with the intention that the sleeves should be a part of the bodice. They require most careful arrange- ment, standing out in folds from the arm in a new and remarkable way. They need skilled dressmaking, and then are a marked success. The mneckband matched the sleeves in color, and so do the tight gaunt- lets, almost to the wrist; but the waist- belt, the band from the collar to the bodice, and the two encircling the waist are of black satin. This answers charmingly for a theater bodice, a tea jacket, and for an afternoon reception dress. And, says the same authority, one of the prettiest no- tions in the way of sleeves closely resem- bles a Canterbury bell. It is quite close- fitting and plain‘on the shoulders and to the elbow, where it ends in a multiplicity of soft frillings of lisse and lace. Then there is another shape coming in, quite tiznt also, but with an upper sleeve almost as wide as a child’s frock, drooping a little over the elbow and just reaching to the bend of thearm and sewn in on the shoul- ders in broad box-pleats. Crepon is so completely de mode that the wise woman will not invest in even kin- dred fabrics. In all washing materials chine designs will prevail. Beautifully jeweled combs are the rage everywhere, and the Duke de Morny set the fashion, for at Christmas time he sent as pres:nts to many of his friends tortoise- sheil combs richly jeweled. Silver toilet articles are entirely out of fashion, and are now considered banal. | Tortoise-shell is seen on the most perfectly appointed dressing tables. OQur belles are having their silver and gold handeled par- to the goldsmiths’ delight, as these fads keep them all busily emploved. Green, lettuce green and the real tur- quoise blue and tn!le are to be found in or on most of the Parisian hats, with which we willi presently amuse and torment our- selves. The swellest hats .are trimmed | with tulle, or the cream - colored lace scarfs which I bhave before’ mentioned, and the osprey made of flowers is truly be- coming, and flowers are to be beneath the brims of most chapeaux. The French have taken a violent fancy to the tail of the bird of paradise, so it, 1n a vivid shade of green, adorns many a model. wear our hats well forward on our fore- heads, says Dame Fashion. I have {ust been doing a piece of appro- priate Lenten work, which may be of use 10 several reeders. More than six months MATRON’S: EVENING DRESS. ago I purchased a piece of excellent black | Saturday evening—a tribute, b: alpaca, which I made up into a very useful | evidently fully appreciated petticoat. 1t was well cut and had around the bottom two ruffies of bluish gray silk | shot with black, and the yoke was of the same fabric. I saw a few days ago that the silk ruffles had worn out, so I renewed them and the yoke, as the alpaca still is perfectly good; ana replaced them with a deep ruifle of black silk, which has alter- nate pink and black stripes. . Then I put on a yoke of pink satin matching the rmk stripe and as a result have an excellent petticoat for rainy days and morning wear at a small ocutlay, as I only purchased four yards of the silk for the ruffle the yoke coming out of my scrapbag. I suppose you all have sucn bags. If not institute one at once,as many a bit of silk apparently oi no use comes in very nicely when least expected. I forgot to say that to make my petticoat as durable as possible I finished it around the bottom with a binding of the best black corduroy. I am watching an opportunity to secure a pretty sprigged silk whict I sball ruffle, and frill in the newest and most approved fashion, as I find the sprigged silks are effective for this purpose. For those who do nct care to pay from $5 to $20 for skirts and yet love dainty underwear let me advise them to try those of home manufacture, as I am cer- tain, judging from my own exertions, that they will be surprised and gratified at the results. I have been requested to discuss the comparative merits of silk, lisie thread and linen-mesh underwear for summer wear; but at present I cannot do so, never having tried tbe linen. However, some day I may, and will then be in a position to speak from exverience; but, consider- ing how differently people are constituted, 1 think that if delicate they should obtain the advice of their physician on such sub- jects, and in this climate I am a great ad- vocate for light-weight woolen garments. The prettiest way of having a trousseau marked is to have the Christian name em- broidered on each article, but if initials are_preferred they should be of the mar- ried name. MARCELLA. SRS FOR_MEN. As the subject of men's clothing is easily exhausted, we find such authorities as Him constantly discussing whether we will ever go back to knee breechesand silk stockings, ruffled shirts and patches, and we are solemnly notified that colored evening suits are in demand on the Con- tinent, and conservative “Him,” who is supposed to be the ‘‘Glass of fashion and the mold of form,” informs us that he has ordered “a white silk waistcoator so,” and is absolutely listening to the sug- gestion of one in pongee silk of a canary color for evening wear; however, we much doubt his appearing in this novelty. A few “West End’’ tailors 1n New York have been making dinner jackets without pockets. No svch jacket ever has more than two pockets, and, of course, they never have flaps. Those without pockets were s0 satisfactory that probably many more will be-ordered. 5 > Some young men are again tryingto make the velvet collar on the evening coat fashionable. There is little doubt but that they will not succeed, as the result is ex- tremely ugly and lacks smartness. i The correct evening tie you must tie yourself. It is of white lawn and has square (not pointed) ends. ¢ Strictly speaking the evening coat for ear is the black ined with either men at all seasons of the Inverness, which may be silk or satin. 5 X The question sometimes arises even now as to whether in going up and down stairs a woman precedes the man, so I quote a good and concise reply : . “The woman precedes the man in going upstairs, and she precedes him always where there is no possibility of any mis- adventure occurring. Where there is such a chance and a disturbance or difficulty of any character is likely to arise, the man precedes the woman. In going into a theater, or any public place, entering a | church or restaurant, or a public convey- ance where there may be any difficulty in the crush of a crowd or questions about seats, etc., the man precedes the woman, but in going upstairs in a private house, the woman precedes the man. “There is an absurd idea, which is prac- asols and umbrellas incrusted with gems, |- ‘We must. tically obsolete to-day, that in going up- stairs the man shoald gerecnde the woman, because there might some vestige of chance that the man would h woman’s ankles in case she is al him. As this is ridiculous on its face, it is ridiculous to have the man precede the womarf on this theory.” Varley says: ‘‘Atthedinner to the Hon. Charles A. Dana at the LotoS Club on last NEW I GUARANTEE “GOOD THINGS. ‘Wrinkles, crows-feet, deep lines effaced. Pimples cured. Faces cleared of freckles, moth patches, sallowness. Gray hair restored to original color. Superfluous hair forever removed. Ladies out of town send- Trial Pot. iy this ad. with 10¢ in stamps will receive & book of instructions and a box of : owder Lola Montez Creme ¥ FREE. MRS. NETTIE HARRISON, DERMATOLOGIST, 40-43 GEARY ST,, San Franciseo. TO-DAY. and Face the way, y the dis- | tinguished journalist—the ices were in- closed in boxes wrapped in a miniature ‘extra’ of the Sun, giving an account of the affair, poomising a later edition with full report, a novel and bright idea.” C. C. THE BABY DID IT. The Little Thing Was a Beam of Sun- shine in That Dingy Streetcar. On one of the cold, rainy days of the past week a Star reporter was on a car on the Pennsylvania-avenue line coming down Capitol Hill. There was a pretty good load of passengers. It was cold, wet and uncomfortable inside of the car, and the rain beat a tattoo on the windows without that brought anything but pleas- ant reflections to the passengars who would have to face it. At the Peace monument there was a big re-enforcement of passengers. They piled in very unceremoniously, bringing with them a rush of cold air and scattering showers of spray from their soaked gar- ments. In the crowd which got aboard wesa woman with a baby in her arms. The woman was rather poerly and thinly clad and had no umbrella. There was some delay in her getting a seat and she looked decidedly forlorn apd helpless trying to maintain her balance and at the same time look out for her child. But with all the environment calculated to make men m-an and surly some one had enough gallantry in spite of the weather to offer her a seat But mother and child got many a reproving look from the other pas- sengers. Those who were in an ugly mood on account of their unpleasant surround- ings found it very soothing to their ruffled feeling to thin Well, there’sa bi fool than I am to her neighbor loud enough to reach the ears of the writer: ““The very idea of tak- ing a baby out in such a storm,” and fin- ighed her sentence with a shrug of her 5h&uldqrs, which meant more than she said. Bat baby was wrapped up snug and warm in a blanket, and its mother, heed~ Tess of what her neighbors might think, began to unroll the quaint covering to see how his diminutive majesty was getting on. Everybody in the car was watching her with looks of mingled disapproval and curiosity, She finally got the roll undone so that Mr. Baby’s fuce became visible. And such a face as it was! There was probably never a more completely sur- rised set of people in that streeccar be- ore. - Baby wasa real beauty of the sort that is apparent to somebody else besides the mother. Such eyes, such dimples, and, withal,” such a’ bright, healthy, smil- ing face in all probabulity will never light up a similar occasion. Baby’s appearatice worked like a magic charm on the rest of the passengers. As soon as his face was uncovered he took a survey of ‘the passengers about him with owlish Trnvlty. Then, asif struck by some highly ludicrons idea in the contempla- tion of the scene, he burst into a great fit of baby laughter, He chirruped and chuckled and kicked up his heels in such high glee that inside of a minute he had the entire car on bis side. The scowliing looks had all disappeared as if by magzic and people forgot all about the disagree- able weather outside arid their uncomfort- able surroundings within and joined with baby in a broad smile at the novel situ- ation. Somehow that baby’s genuine, healthy and spontaneous good spirits had for the time put an entirely new phase on life with all who saw him.—Washing- ton Star. THE LAST WORD. 'Who has not felt a magic power, That through the heart has stirred, As memory brings back the hour And the last parting word? A mother from her son must part. While tears course down the cheek, He turns to clasp ber to his heart, ‘The last fond word to speak. And though they never may meet agaim, Ere she sleeps with the dead, His heart her image will retain And last kind word she said. A brother (ere he leaves to roam) A sister’s voice will check, To twine again (he arms at Lome ‘Around the loved one’s neck. Amid the busy scenes of life Her form he can descry, Rising from out the din and strife A sister’s last good-by. The lover from his mistress turns, But ere he galus the door Shecalls him back: her spirit yearng For just one sweet word more. Heaven looks down with eyes so bright, While to his heart she’s pressed. Of all the loving words that night The last one was the best. And 80 1t 1s, with old or young, Memory may recall The Inst word trembles on the tongne With loving wish for all. And when, beside the couch of death, Imploring accents seek, ©Oh, God! to stay the fleeting breath Just one more word to speak. In vain, in vain, the die is cast, The fondest ties are riven; But when this troubled life {s past No parting words in heaven. —HaMILTON. Musical Items. The minister, Parson Downycouch, was at dinner with the Chaffie family. Johnnie spoke up and said: ‘‘Can a church whistle?” “Why do you ask, Johnnie?”” asked the clergyman, kindly. “Because pa owes twelve dollars back pew rent and he says he is going to let the church whistle for it.” After the clergyman bad taken his de- parture there was a vocal solo by Johnnie. —Texas Sifter. B T e — The games of dominoes, chess, baccarat and lansquenet have come from China and are very old, being traceable as far back as two or three thousand years before the W FOR THE CHILDREN! Genuine Rog- ers Extra Plate Child’s Bets, consist- ing of knife, fork and Rogers ware is. Your choice of all of our Finest Gold- lined Quad- ruple Plate Napkin Rings guaranteed the best, for 35 cents. reg ular _ prices $1, 85¢ and 75¢c. These are for grown i . folks. Mon- day, Tuesday and Wednesday only. THAT BIG CHINA STORE— _ A Quarter of a Block Below Shreve's. WANGENHEIM, STERNHEI & CO., 528 and 530 Market St., 27 and 29 Sutter St., BELOW MONTGOMERY. ISSESSSSSoSse! GRAND OPENING OF SPRING AND SUMMER S ying extravagant prices for ;gupr %‘mml ‘You can get Stylish, Perfect-fitting Garments made to | order by JOE FO! the Tailor, at | 2 any other house on’the ~—" Pacific Coast. St 13.50 madi?wz\'da)wm $40 45, ( Clay Worsted, $17.50 to French Pique, 20 to 45, All-Wool Pants, 4 to 6 Dress Paats, 6 to 10 Stylish Overcoats, 5 to 35 My Suits from $17.50 to $35 ship,trig‘t'ming»audqua.fity. Joe JPoheim THE TAILOR fas in fine tailoring at moder- 203 & 203 Cor. 724 s«m.s“'; ey 3330 & 1132 Market Street, San Francisco, Cal. IRON BEDS, BRASS BEDS, FOLDING BEDS * Wire and Hair Mat- tresses, Reclining Chairs, Wheel Chairs,, . Tommodes, Back Rests W. A. SCHROCK, —a1-— New Montgomer: HEADQUARTERS FOR BICYCLE GARMENTS. SEE OUR NOBBY BICYCLE SUITS FOR 1896. For Ladies, Gents and Children The styles will interest, please and sur- prise sou. THEY LOOK WELL. THEY WEAR WELL. They Give Perfect Satistaction. WE SHOW STYLES IN SWEATERS “That Cannot Be Seen Anywhere Else. WE SHOW Everything That a Rider Wants From Cap to Leggins. OUR PRICES ARE THE LOWEST. SeeOur Exhibit at the Cycle Show, Booth 36. 1llustrated Catalogue and Price List mailed free npon application. NEWMAN & LEVINSON, 125, 127, 129, 131 Kearny St. St., under_Grani Hotei, 8. F. Branch Store 742 and 744 Markes St.