The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, February 2, 1896, Page 26

26 THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, FEBRUARY 2, 1896. VERYBODY is talking about the dinner dance and the domino party. Both passed off with great eclat. The very vouthful set predominated at the Presidio and had the most delightful time possi- ble. 1t was a leap-year affair and the girls d enforcing their authority, in fact r sway is being immensely appre- ciated by the beaux. One informed me that three charming maidens were going to see that he had a good time, for one of them had invited him to dance the co- tillon, another had engaged him for suo- per and the third, really { forgot what the third bad undertaken to do, at all events this young man deserves lots of attention. He has such charming manners and is so- unaffected that his head is not in the least likely to be turned during '96, and I trust the men who bave been in the habit of ac- cepting every possible invitation and have | Back of Stylish Tailor Gown. been scarcely civil to their hostesses may be left severely ‘alone and taught a few wholesome lessons. At both of the large teas on Saturday San Francisco’s four hundred are fully represented. Much is expected of the Mardi Gras ball, the management being in most exceilent | hands, and with such spacious and beauti- ful apartments it should be a perfect suc- cess and close the season in a blaze of glory. I must now tell you about my illustra- tions, as you see evening toilets are upper- most In my mind, and small wonder, when I have seen such a number lately, and from now until Ash Wednesday all the pretty girls will be dancing their feet off, and will declare after each dance that they never had a better time in all their lives, One of the gowns is novel, the back, which you cannot see, being entirely of white tulle over white duckess satin, the front being of the satin decorated with trails of chrysanthemums, which reach the knee, and trim the bodice as well. Bands of silver sequin embroidery are used with especially good effect. The white satin frock is exceedingly simple; but artisticto a degree, the bodice: being draped with pale green chiffon, caught on the bust with diamond orna- ments and falling with pearl-fringed ends to the hem. The bodice of the third ball costume is a soft mass 6f white chiffon scattered with rose leaves, upon which dewdrops of diamonds appear to have fallen. “Round the decolletage are double frills of diamond-studded, ace ordien- pleated chiffon, and the full skirt shows three inches of the accordion-pleated chif- fon studded with diamonds and headed with therose leaves and dewdrops. This last gown is worn by Miss Studholme in *‘An Artist’s Model,” which is running in New York, and 1s the creation, of a well- known English house. In the same pla is noted a pink satin skirt decorated witl old and silver sequins, with lace on the iips; and a plain skirt of pale green has a bodice draped like a handkerchief, elabor- ately jeweled; a green and white-brocaded skirt shows a bodice of emerald green vel- vet with an applique of heavy lace, the top portion of the sleeves of this being close-fitting, with three frills a la Marie Antoinette, while the belt is white. A dainty gown of white satin is lined with pale pink, having shoulder straps of roses, the short sleeves displaying the top portion of the arm bordered with sable; the bodice of 'this overhanging the belt, which is of pale pink. In the second act the weary travelers arrive from Paris just in time jor the fancy dress ball, and ap- pear in the most interesting of uisters, *all bearing the Directoire indelibly im- ressed upon their outlines,” yet all differ n detail. - One of drab cloth has facings‘of black and white striped velvet, another of ray with yellow facings, and perhaps the gest of alliscut like a redingote and is of green cloth faced with black. The hats for these are said to be picturesquely appro- priate, all being of the three cornered, or ‘punchinelio shape. All the actresses also wear huge ruffles of black lace with equally large bows. Another play_which has greatly taken the fancy of New Yorkers is much like “Charlie’s Aunt” in character. It is cailed “The Strange Adventures of Miss Brown.” The character of Miss Euphemia Schwartz, German. girl in an English boarding- school, is‘taken by Miss Nita Allen. Her acting is excellent and so_are her frocks; one has a yellow satin skirt with trim- \\Q{\\\\\\\\\w i it \ Al \ Y embroidery, odd combinations being the order of the day. Of course, many stage gowns are appropriate only before the footlights or for & fancy ball, but nowadays only the cleverest of designers are em- ployed in creating such gowns, which nat- urally abound in good suggestions for the weman who desires to be thoroughly up to | date, and that is the reason I so carefully keep my readers posted concerning the latest creations of the stage. At tne Fortnightly cotillon the girls were as delightfully pretty as ever, es- pecially those in gauzy, fluffy frocks, for organdies, muslins, chiifons and mulls made even the least beautiful dainty and pretty. Th® older members of the club wore handsome silks and laces. A wise maiden never makes the mistake of wear- ing a gown of a very decided hue which may clash wvith other colors, as the result is bad. However, I know of a case where a very handsome little brunette desired 1o make herself conspicuous and well known from the first. 8he made her debut, very correctly, in the whitest of white gowns, and at once realized that dozens of girls wore white, pale blue, light, pink and Nile green, so she would have noth- ing to do with such delicate shades, and forthwith "appeared at her next dance in a most fetching toilette of crimson and black chiffon, red roses nest- ling in her hair; :her next venture wag a vivid orange frock with a touch of green. Both of these costumes were perfectly suc- cessful, the petite brunette was declared a belle at once, but then she had rarely per- fect taste and all the attributes of a belle, but oh, how the other girls would have liked to have extinguished her, for such vivid garments made their dear little frocks look so faded and washed out when she appeared, and of course this young sirl was very incorrectly garbed, as she ressed as 3 woman five years her senior might have done, as far as colors were concerned, although to be sure the fabrics and styles were suited to her age. A gown I greatly like is the property of a u%. slender blonde. It is made of the palest pink satin, the hem being trimmed with two rows of white spangled ribbon, roses adorning the front of the decolle- tage. Black and white has been so popular for ‘the past two vears that most expected this spring would see the last of it. However, those best informed write from Paris that white and black will be again worn this spring and summer, To be sure, there is a considerable difference between black with a touch of white and white with a dash of black. Nita Allen showed the effectiveness of this combination when she had three dozen white ruffles which com- fosed her skirt edged with black. White ndia silks sprigged with black wili be soon en route from the East. However, torquoise hlue will probably be the color of the spring-summer. The craze for Delit china has been and is so vreat that designers of fabric combi- nations evidently have come to the con- clusion that the same shade of blue as we see in the china on s white ground will be equally popular in silk, so many of the latest taffetas (summery-looking weaves) show Delft-blue figures—usually flowers; warp printed in white. Last summer we had a new line, and an- other one has just been imported which ie far more beautiful. It islike cloth of sil- ver, its surface being described as soft and glossy, of'a perfect silver gray. Many of the grass cloths and. other linens have small dots brocaded over them which look like embroidery. Organdies and grenadines will be much worn. The grenadines are arriving in great numbers, some being as thin as mousseline de soie, while others have large canvas-woven squares, Many have fine velvet stripes and some have wide, solid- colored stripes alternating with rose vines that also form stripes. The dark-ground orfinndiu are also unusually attractive and are to be had in black, blue and dark Prussian blue and _navy covered over with beautiful floral ‘designs quite different from the large stiff pansy and rose designs seen a few seasons ago. Even newer are the (Psnernu which show wide stripes of a solid color on a white ground; narrow stripes in rose, lilac, black, blue or green- -lwmnting with white stripes of the same width, and all over Persian patterns with floral and scroll effects in varied colors. It seems entirely too early to begin a discussion of fabrics which are to figure in garments for the next two seasons, and yet Lent has always been selected by those mings of biack lace, the bodice being gay with many colored spangles; another of white has frills edged with black, tbe colors being of yellow enriched with gold who prided themselves on being *‘before- hand” as the proper time to make up all the wash dresses at home, so the dealers are hastening to unpack great cases of the ‘thin shirts, suci -are far more fas| % .A RreCEPTION GOWN., * excellent tailor gown. Nothing could be simpler than this costume, and no ane can deny its charms. It is made in a dark purile tone of cloth. The large collar is of white kersemere hemmed with a stra; ping of black satin. The coat is loose in the front and fastens with a double row of smoked pearl buttons set in steel, and on the skirt (and it is an admirable one) the strappings extend themselves to the knees at the front seams. and these strap- pings I consider most disfiguring, and no novelty of this kind will taken up by the wise. In all other respects this gown is worthy of commendation and imitation, s it is suitable for all ordinary occasions. The sacque-backed coat is now an indis- pensable garment for fashionable women. The sleeves are of moderate dimensions, and the back hangs in graceful pleats, which are pre-eminently becoming to most figures. A Redfern gown of black cloth is in per- fect taste. 1t is of black cloth—the finest ladies’ cloth made. 1t has a jaunty jacket with an inner waistcoat of violet velvet showing a small vest of white cloth. I have seen a model for early spring. It is & rough, checked tweed dress with a collar and revers of plain drab cloth. Only a good tailor can put these strappings on correctly, as it is a delicate and extremely difficult piece of work. In fashionable drawing-rooms tea tables are never seen now, for at 5 o'clock the butler or maid serves the tea from a large tray, usually of wood with carved edges, covered with an exquisitely embroidered lace edged cover. A wooden tray is most used, as one writer wisely remarks that *‘the tray may-be of silver, but one large enough for the entire service would be too heavy.” and it should be remembered that demitasses and spoons should never be used for tea. An ingenious cream and milk pitcher combined has appeared in. solid silver; it holds milk in one side and cream in the other. This. will be appreciated by tea drinkers, as many maintain that cream utterly spoils tea, while others will have cream, but if tea is not tuken ala Russe milk is most correct. A cracker jar of crocodile: stone and silver, made in exact imitation of the curl- ing stones used in the north, 1s an attrac- tive novelty for my lady’s table. It is hard to realize, but in just about three weeks from to-day Lent begins, so we are beginning already to hear a great deal about fancy work, which can be done during the forty days. For instance, many girls like to make pretty and exdpen- sive Easter gifts. Let us recommend to them to try for linen picture-frames some of the rococo designs, which long ago superseded the flowered effects. When gold thread is introduced in the-conven- tional figures the frame is finished off with a narrow gilt-beading in place of the heavy watered paper. These frames are now used for dainty bits of landscape as well as for photographs. Many sofa cushions are usually made during the penitential season, and for them art linens are to be had in almost évery conceivable artistic shade. These are much used for sofa cushions, as is also a new material in black and white—a cross between linen and denim — which, em- broidered in tize bright silks and linens, is especially adapted for piano and table covers, Sofa pillows of the cloth embroid- ered in heavy all-over scrolls in_blues, yel- lows and reds are extremely effective and AN EVENING COSTUME. most ethereal weaves suitable for the warmest weather, while the snow in many places is still lying on the ground. All of us are interested in shirt waists, which are to be as popular as ever, so Vogue thus replies to a correspondent who desires to learn what are to be the newest summer styles for washatle shirt waists: Shirts for the coming season are to be made of cheviot, linen, percale, batiste, linen, lawn, or in fact any of the washable materials. The collarsare about iwo inches high, and turn over perfectly straight, with straight corners coming very close together instead of slanting from wnere they turn, as formerly. The collars are detachuble, thus enabling one to have several for each shirt of the material of which the shirt is made, and of white linen. On the shirts of the thin materials which are to be much worn next season the collars are of white linen. Sleeves are very full at the top and_finely vathered 1into the armhole. Where they join the cuff they are fuller than last year. Some of the cheviot shirts have bishop’s sleeves, but they are not as pretty asin the thin stuffs, as it makes them rather bulky. The cuffs are about three inches deep, and are made of the same material as the shirt and may have square or round corners, the square being smarter. The as lawn and batiste, have bishop's sleeves: and turned-back cuifs, with which no sleeve-links are worn, but buttons anly under the cuff, where it is turned back. If one prefers they may have embroidered bands to finish the sleeve. Many of these thin blouses have fancy fronts, insertion let in, embroidered bands or fine tucks, and with them may be worn satin s and pleated belts of different colors. Girls, do not purchase any more black crepon for shirts, as those.of black satin hionable. They must be of good quality, and 1n the end will prove less expensive than those of crepon, for the crepon must be made over a good silk, and soon becomes rusty and dowdy, while the satin wears ‘well and makes an_ excellent foundation for. flounces of black lace, grenadines, etc, 1also give this week & back view of an bear a close resembiance to the imported Austrian embroideries. 5 The present fancy for Delft china has caused the revival of the old onion pattern. Such designs are not easy of execution, as the work must be closely' embroidered in white silk, outlined with the blue. The design calls for a round center piece, and is most effective when fringed. The linen must be very closely outlined in the white silk, leaving a margin of two inches; this can be frayed outup to the circular out- line without fear of raveling when laun- dried. The onion can be had in different. sizes, suitable for center-pieces, caraffes and individual plates; the last, of course, are only used on the bare polished table. 1t is quite wonderful how fleurs-de-lis as a design for table linen retain their popu- larity. For example, five fleurs-de-lis scat- tered over a piece of linen twenty inches square can be made artistic by drawing close in white filo floss one way, using the finest gold thread to darn across. Such a centerpiece should be scalloped in white with pale yellow shot in, forming an irregular upper edge. The same design carried out in white and that lovely new shade of dull green is even more to my likine, The most exquisite of sets are of the finest linens and Jawns witL insertions of Honiton and point lace braid in ribbon bow-knot and raised rose designs. The latter is made by the lace being put on in TOWs on the linen, which is then cut out, that the prevailing color of the luncheon may appear beneath the roses, These in- sertions and edges may be had in all widths, doylies being made of the nar- rowest. One set which caused me most warmly to express my artistic satisfac- tion wasa oooxn%innfinn of the lace braids and the finest drawn work I seen. A delightful dinner table I also ad- mired had thie Delft pattern carried oat asI have: suggested, and in the center stood a tall Delft lam mounted on a base of the same sup, the bowl. The napkins each h: have ever rting atiny onion design in one corner. Among the novelties in Delft ware are I more, the clubhouse of the Green Spring with fluted shaft | //7_// Zl ) N 3 candlesticks four feet high, most curious, but remarkably effective. MARCELLA. e e o b FOR MEN. In New York the Knickerbocker Riding Club held their first meeting a few days ago at Durland’s Riding Academy. As usual the fashionable set keep this club very exclusive, and each year it continues to increase in popularity. It was organ- ized by Livingston Center some years ago, and is now in the hands of Messrs. Fred- eric Pierson and Edward Thomas. Itis an interesting sight to watch the club ride to music and form figures and quadrilles in the ring. After the regular meeting is over the most expert indulge in jumping. When the season is over the club givesa dinner, which is always a social event. The Knickerbocker Bowling Club is al- most equally successful, and this season it is predicted that the competition wiil be fierce over the ‘‘scores rolled up for the silver bow.” In San Francisco there should certainly be a riding club well patronized, as the wheel can never take the place of the horse, and yet how unsuc- cessful all attempts have been of late to form such an organization. Fox-hunting is very popular in Balti- and the kennels of the Elkridge Valle; geing well attended. Club A man writing to Vogue wants to know how he had best have a frock coat made and of what material, as he is only to have one such coat. Many are in the pesition of this inquirer, so 1 quote the reply: *‘If you are to have ouly one frock coat it is to be assumed that you intend to make it last for a long time—say two, three or jour years. You should get a coat which is not extreme in any respect. The men who buy a great many clothes go from one ex- treme to another. Not so very long ago they were making frock coats reaching many inches below the knees. There are men now who have gome to the other ex- treme and make them far above the knee. You will be always right, however, and look well dressed if your frock coat reaches just to the knee. There is sub- stantially only one material; that is black vicuna.” “Never have trinkets been less worn than this season,” is the remark of a New Yorker, and such is the caseas nowadays a | well dresced man neverallows his watch to be visible and bunches of secls are things of a bygone generation. | The_ultra fashionable are again wearing long frock coats which have at once be- | come popular and look well on very tall men. They are being' made in gray with proad collars of black velvet and cuffs. Green is the color in London, all busi- ness suitings having a mixture of green in them, and as for ties the rage is for black ties'with green patterns oa them, and the bright green Tecks are in great vogue, and even cigar-cases are made of green leather, although cigar cases of polished silver are considered in good form in New York. From New York comes the information that the high-banded turned-down coliars are the fayorites for informal .dress, and vary in height from 23/ inches to 2 inches. For full dress the best shape is the new straight standing collar, which ldps at the | buttonhole, the spacing gradually increas- ing until the top of the collar is reached, when the ends are sli- htly poked. The collars that stand straight, and break | slightly under the chin, are called poke collars; however, the bent point collar is NEW TO-DAY. roossssossssest Special Saving Sale. | PUDDING DISHES — Heavily Nickel-Plated on hard metal, with removable porcelain-lined dish for serving direct from the oven ; also useful for baking many other things. The regular prices are $1 50 and $2. On Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday ONLY we will sell the 3-pint size at $1 and the 4-pint at §1 40. THAT BIG CHINA STORE— 4 Quarter of a Block Below Shreve's, WANGENHEIM, STERNHEIl & CO., 528 and 530 Market St., 27 and 29 Sutter St., BELOW MONTGOMERY. i )ossoessSsses! still seen, especially out here, as it has numerous adyocates. An unusually deep cuff is being made by the swell tailors, and ‘“Harbonow of London puts a cuff five inches deep, with the buttonhole 13 inches from the top on all his shirts.”” The square-cornered link- cuff if most worn at present. Scant cuffs, that reveal part of the shirt-sleeve every tim: the arm is stretched, is not to be toler- ated. PROPER NAMES, Pronounced Like English, but With the Right Syllable Accented. As the English language has well-settled rules of pronunciation and is welt able to deal in its own manner with almost any possible combination of letters brought into it from other languages, it would seem to be not only permissible, but proper, for English-speaking people to pronounce foreign names according to English analogies. It is not incumbent upon Americans or Englishmen to famile iarize ‘themselves with Russian, for ex- ample, before they may venture to pro- nounce the name of a Russian diplomat or study Chinese in order to be in a position to mention casually some Chinese proper name brought into prominence by to-day’s news. It is enough, as a general rule, to give to the odd combination of sounds pre- sented to us in dispatches from Japan, Bulgaria, the Transvaal or Venezuela snch utterances as the laws of our own lan- guage prescribe. Hit or miss, life is too short to master the orthoepy of every tongue, and we must be content to do the best we «an in our own way. Espe- cially is this the case with proper names that have long had a place in the English language and have had a recognized Eng- lish pronunciation. It is mere affectstion to convert Paris into Paree, or ape the Ger- man pronunciation of the name of Wag- ner, the well-known musician and com- poser, by giving a v twist to the first letter. Paris is Paris and Wagner is Wagner, the names being common and well under- stood. A person in the first enthusiasm of his acquaintance with a foreign lan- guage may be pardoned for airing his su- perior knowledge when uncommon names not adopted in common -English speech are in question, but he becomes ridiculous when he undertakes to impart a foreign accent to familiar names. There is a story of a New York clerk named Gordon, who, | after a month’s stay in France, became ‘“‘Gor-r-rdong” and refused to answer to any other appellation. His case was an extreme one, peri:aps, but it illustratesthe vice (too common) of using with excessive ostentation foreign instead of the more useful and intelligible English pronuncia- tions. With respect to Latin and Greek proper names a stricter rule may, perhaps, be con- ceded to apply. These languages are the implements of culture. The rules of pro- nunciation applicable to words transferred from them into English are simple and few, and well within the reach of every one who pretends to a classical education. A false accent is, accordingly, unpardon- able, and among classic scholars correct- ness of accent is the accepted test of souna and thorough training. But in the sounds given to particular itters there is room for the manifestation of vanity or im- mature judgment. Cicero’s name during the lifetime of the great Roman orator was undoubtedly vpronounced Kikero, and Cmsar was Kaisar. Other con- sonants and all the vowels were in classical Latin pronounced in a way which our English letters once followed, but from which they have now for the most part departed. At college it is well tolearn what is thought to have been the true Latin pronunciation: All knowledge is use- ful. But it is unnecessary in quoting Latin afier leaving college to aim at a vainful consistency. In respect, indeed, to names like Cicero and Cesar, which have been domesticated, so to speak, in the English language, the usual rule applies. Thay are to be pronounced like Engish words, only taking care to get the accent on the right syliable. The English-speaking American people accept, ir fact, the common-sense rule that pure English is always preferable to a potpodrri of German, Latin and other pronunciations.—Baltimore Sun. HAPPINESS. 1did not dream, I could not know, That life contained such bliss; That from a tiny germ could grow Such happiness as this. At last I read the losson taught In Joy’s mys erious eyes As in some sweet wild Creature's, caught And brought me us 8 prize. And this is life—that irksome gitt T longed to put awsy— The headiong force that strong and swif Throbs in my veins to-day ! There is & host of secret signs And symphonies half sung, A8 if I read between the lines In some forgotten tongue. And through it all a meanipg runs 1 surely used to know: I must have lived and felt it once Long centuries ago. A sweet new The pulising Dear God, till now I have not seen Thy lovely world aright. —Scribner's. o Itis one of nfe’s little ironies that the British rulers of India won’t be able to sell opium to the Chinese much longer, in spite of a war to open the Celestial ports to its sale. The Chinese are raising it for them- selves better and cheaper. NEW T £V VVIVVVVVVVVVVIS T _GUARANTEE YOUR \FACE will positively be beautified. Wrin- kles, moth patches, freckles and all facial blemishes removed by my personal office treatment. ' Youth- ful freshness restored to the impoverished skin and faded com- plexion. Ihave successfully treated thou- sands at my Dermatological Institute (the largest in Ame- rica) and have testimonials from many a happy woman, WA OAADY but “the best endorsement is my own face. I invite the fullest investigation of my claims, the great Lola Montez Creme (5 872 and tissue builder, a skin restora- tive and preserver of beauty, of known valune. Neot a 4-day Hair Restorer dye but 2 natural restorer, guaranteed to restore the coloring pigment to its criginal condition, thus reproduc- ing the natural color of the hair. i Permanent); Superfluous Hair S, the only means ever discovered— the Electric Needle as operated by Mrs. ‘Harrison, Ladies out of town T"m Pot sending this ad with Iocin stamps, will receive 2 book of x}stmctigus and a box of. Lola ontez Creme and’ Face Powd FREE. i Visit my Parlors and sce what may be done for you —_—— MRS. NETTIE HARRISON DERMATOLOGIST 40-42 Geary St., San Francisco § § WALL PAPER! No. 20 (l;e_aryE Street. GREAT REDUCTION SE CUT LAST SEASON'S PATTERNS TO MAKE ROOM FOR THE NEW % | ! ; |WINDOW SHADES! Any Color, Size or Kind. WHOLESALE—AND—RETAIL, OOBMOPOLITAN, Qpposite U, . Min:, 100 and 102 Fiftn st., wan Tancisco, Cal.—The most alogg family notel in the ; s and $1 50 per dncording 10 room.” Hreals 25c, Look for tha - ~ach be mopolitan Hotel. | WAL 0-DAY. [iYZPARIN LAST WEEK +e.OF OUR.... WINTER + CLEARANCE SALE. CENUINE BARCAINS CLOAK' DEPARTMENT, Eiectric Seal Capes, full Clronlas.”. ..o e Boucle Cloth Capes, Trim- med with Angora Fur. $ 10@ Jackets, Boxed Front, Black and Navy Blus Serge. . . $15.00 $7:50 $4.0 Jfickets, 3 Length, in Kersey and Serges. . covv.. Tennis Flanoel Wrappers, Assorted Colors, $1.00, T A SE HABLA ESPANOL. G. VERDIER & CO., SE. Cor. Geary and Grant Ave. VILLE DE PARIS. BRANCH HOUSE, LOS ANGELES. $175