The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, September 1, 1895, Page 15

< 1 THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 1, 18985. 15 sunny matured s nature, before they ps, that life would ess Lucy—weil, days many a gay into something for man really int be one hides you all know t rded to 1 ions, for it , at least, 1 hing boughs, ; and the exhausted ite a quarter of a , there came the s give the answer is young and so h knows many t will be hers during the coming Wise maiden; let them all wait ou have tried those pretty wings, he next thing I will be telling you ,and that would never do for mns, 8o imagine what I might ck nother week will be gone before I can ibe the gowns worn at the Del Monte matrons are very reti- ng, even to their friends, abrics of their toilettes, some cases, direct impor- s, but our own modistes ummer resort 1atany French woman might ud toown. One I can describe vas Worn oy a st demi-blonde a week ago. It was of white pompa- ver which are powdered 0 he sleeves are of rose-colored v vet and the bodice has the slig ct produced by means of the velvet i ced in the front, over which is sewn exquisitely spangled gauze. ] skirt has a single huge bow of the t at the left side, and innumerable s of pink and green silk are sewn he inside of tne skirt, producing a ng effect. costume accompanying an elderly v is of rich gray satin. The skirt shows ‘ee handsome panels, one in front, the other two at either side. They consist of beautifully jetted net over mauve satin. The bodice 18 cut with a slight point in the back. The front shows a vest of net over the mauve satin. A most graceful fichu of rare oid black lace'is draped so as to in no way conceal the vest. The tout ensemble | is very good. The sleeves are moderate in ze and are composed of gray satin with i tions of black net over mauve, black ills completing them around the Felix has just sent to his fair customers a supply of costumes for seaside wear, and 1l the bodices are made with pleats, not cut but well drawn in at the waist. frequently the front pleat is edged ith a narrow lace. This real artist in costuming has been showing for the past few weeks in his rooms a mode of the last ntury to meet the xigencies of this, Le asavet Regence, c enient to slip over a low bodice at home. It is described as a sort of straight garment frilled in at the neck with a iffon boa, fastening with one button or ribbon bow in front, and falls open just below the waist on the hips. The sleeves are immensely wide and open. It is not iined, although composed of silk merely. Spotted mousseline de soie over white | satin is le grand chic, and the very pretty ng woman so sooh to become a bride is e aware of how charming will be her hese fabrics. The skirt hasa pinked und the bottom and the bod- are with a deep fall of lace. rest orchids of a greenish white are artistically arranged on the corsage. e simplicity of this creation con- s charm., stitute Among the shades of pink in great de- mand are peach-blossom and rose aurora. A robe in pale-tinted moire with plain ekirt and godets barely missing the ground, with a square-cut bodice striped with bands of ecru guipure as epaulettes, with pale yellow roses on the shoulders nestling in bouillonnes of pink chiffon, is a delight- ful gown. The short sleeves are of two frills of the moire. A black velvet sash tied at the right side, with long, flowing ends, completes it. The first waist I saw trimmed with but- tons was a black serge, and the buttons were of excellent mother-of-pearl. I at once commended the idea, but now, alas! every other waist is bristling with buttons of every possible size, shape and material, and they are used to form circles, right- angled triangles and every geometrical fig- ure known during our school days; so, fair reader, if you have a spark of originality rip oft the buttons so arranged and do not indu in any style which can be uni- versally copied within twenty-four hours. I very narrowly escaped commending a chic blouse of a rare pink shade which had odd little black buttons, it was so really pretty. AN So many predictions are coming from Kurope by every sieamer concerning the autumn and winter styles and fabrics that one is fairly confused, so contradictory are many of them; but it should be borne in nind that the styles of the early autumn never continte in vogue, asthey are merely modifications of summer ones and will not last long, so be content with having a few simple, inexpensive frocks to begin the on. This much " basque: is to be worn extensively, and it will be warmiy welcomed, as its pretty lines are becoming to all figures, when a good modiste bandles it. Last week T quoted one of the highest authorities concerning crepons, and, as we shouid hear both sides of a question, I will this week tell you what Harper's Bazar has to say through its Paris correspondent. Bhe writes: What are to be the fashions for the coming autumn nobody knows as yet—that is to say, nobody knows positively in Paris. I myself sredict that crepons will not be much worn {lére, even though desalers are making no end of them. Pigis says that zibellines and soft clinging materials of that sort will take fts place, and Pigis is pretty &pt to know. Paquin and Doncet have made up very little erepon this smmmer, and _there certaiily is no reason to suppose they will take any more kindly to that umsatisfactory material for the coming peason than they have thus far. It doesn’t wear well, it's neither dress nor undress, and s far from effective. At all times the woman who can modify & fashion to suit her individuality and pre- serve her best points is worthy of and com- mands universal admiration, and so among ht bloused | siik bodices have large collars of lace | we know—-that the ; | the multitudes of costumes and weaves | which will be submitted shortly for our in- spection we should constantly have.before | us certain rules concerning our personal | perfections and imperfections; otherwise, no matter what the contents of our purses, | we will always be unsuitably clad, and | mark one thing the color of a garment may | suit you perfectly, but if the texture does notit will be unbecoming; for instance, | some complexions are ruined by bringing | them in contact with coarse materials. The well-dressed woman is never the one who purchases thoughtlessly, for dress- |ing is a fine art, which not one of us can afiord to disregard for ‘“the incompetent,she who ignores herself and wears everything that comes out because she fancies it, is the object of pity or ridicule, or both, whenever she disports herself.”” No onein this City more mhy understands this diffi- i cult art than the stylish fair-haired young ;matron who comes from Baltimore, for | whether in a strictly tailor gown or in the | daintiest confection in the evening she is i always perfectly garbed. | The elegantes at Newport and such re- sorts declare the dernier cri for day wear | to be a white faille, or white glace of the best quality. They are covered with frills | innumerable of lace and are completed with delightful hats, toppling with lace quillings, flowers and feathers—the rewi- val of the Trianon style. Glovesand para- sols are of white for such costumes. Many of the faille gowns worn have their skirts bordered with narrow, pinked- out ruffles. No gown will any longer be absolutely correct without a touch of black, so with such frocks are frequently worn | black satin sashes, tied in the back a la bebe. ‘When the Princess Helene was married, being in mourning, all her toilets were in black, mauve, gray or white, and de- lightful confections most of them are. One has a plain gray satin skirt, with a Louis XVI bodice with an undulated basque. The neck is cut square and_closed with a double row of buttons. A Marie Antoin- ette fichu finished it, and from such model gowns can we draw very correct conclu- sions concerning what is what. Among the weddings which will take place this month, one of the prettiest will be solemnized at St. Luke’s on the 12th, in the evening, and not a few elegant toilettes wiil then be seen. The soon-to-be-bride | es with much taste, so her troussean | is sure to be a stylish one. | From Monterey come daily reports of | exquisite garments, the dining-room being nightly a brilliant scene. Many of our matrons and maids rejoice in classically lovely shoulders; not so many, howey can boast of beautifully molded arm Among the most stylishly robed are the two young women who so shortly will change their names, one this month, the other about the middle of next. { Mme, Felix Faure is winning much | praise for her beantiful dressing and affable Recently at a garden party she wore what is designated in Paris as “a bronze toilet.” brown toilet of rich satin, made with great taste. From London comes the information in | a society paper during the height of the season that “Lady A. went to Mrs. B.’s evening party on her bicycle,” which re- minds us of the old lines which appeared many years n;ilo in the burlesque called ““The Field of the Cloth of Gold.” At every cvening party soon, we shall hear the n say. lara Vere ae Vere's bicycle stops the 00 That Lady C way. Doctors in Parns are denouncing the | present form of the bicycle saddle in most emphatic terms, saying it is seriously in- juring women; indeed, not a few noted physicians are much set against this form of exercise. The great trouble is many will not observe prover moderation, and the number of women now suffering from the results of bicycle riding is rapidly in- creasing; but those who should know say that anything that induces exercise in the fresh air must be welcomed, despite the inevitable excesses of the few, and we will see great improvements shortly, I predict, in wheels, as women continue to demand lightness, strength and perfection in de- sign. Women in Germany have more say in some ways than we imagine, for a recent “‘ladies’ race”’ on bicycles has been much i commented on, seventeen com petitors hav- i g taken part. The bicycle race at Monterey was a pretty sight. The pretty, graceful women were all the more charming for their bright color and dnncini eves. I have not not yet ascertained which costume was considered the prettiest. Bicyclists regard witfx marked approval the jersey knitted sweaters of white silk, and purchase numbers of them. i In spite of the general exodus of the | fashionable set this week, the Baldwin | again on Monday evening was weil filled with an appreciative audience, which warmly sympathized with “That Impru- dent Young Couple.” Theudyoung people were excellently well attired throughout the entire performance. Maud Adams made her first appearance in a stylish dark brown silk grenadine made over white | silk, with just the correct touch of white relieving the charmingly cut bodice. Her brown hat with the pink rosesand her cape of brown velvet, lined with white silk and trimmed with handsome Irish lace, were both in the height of the fashion. Mrs. Annesley also was most fetching in the green and black erepon frock, the waist of whick showed the fashionable bit of white now demanded. The white straps on the bodice were beantified with a delicate embroidery in colored sequins. Katherine, you were most fetching in your white zown, and the bicycling cos- tume of brown tweed and “well-fitted gaiters were warmly commended by every one: but when you gave that little swish to the abbreviated skirt as you left j the cottage we all could see perfectly | that you were not wearing bloomers under it, and, besides that your white skirt was not a pretty one, so do complete this admirable costume before wearing it again. Mrs. Adams’ costumes_abounded in ex- cellent suggestions for elderly women, for she was delightfully pretty, the gown of gray crepon, in the black satin trimming of which was appliqued creamy white insertion. No less becoming was the handsome green silk covered with soft russet-shaded flowers. The bodice was of black, but the sleeves matched the skirt. Jeanette's gown of pale lavender lined with g;le yellow silk was _becoming and the tobacco-colored dress with the fouse front adorned with handsome jet pas- sementerie over dark green satin was quite smart. With few exceptions the gowns noted among the audience were not new or re- and white bair-striped taffeta, with a slightly bloused front of black satin It consisted of a golden- | markable in any way. One waist of black. trimmed with good lace, and two Rhine- stone Luttons, was new and well made. Another—worn by a young girl—of Dresden silk had a blue ground covered with cloudy pink roses and was a relief and a pleasure to gaze upon, for the front was not bloused, soft frills of chiffon being an acceptable substitute. Everyone is saying “Just wait until our 350 return from De! Monte, for then we shall see some gowns worth talking about.” As yet I have seen neither *“The Masked Ball’ nor “The Butterflies,” which will be given this week, so cannot comment on what the gowns may- be, but that they will be worthy of our careful inspection goes without saying. At the Columbia ‘“Masks and Faces” bas been a great success in all respects, the play having been well prezented and the audiences all that could be desired. Rose Coghlan as Peg Woffington won high commendation. She appeared in three handsome gowns. The very rich and pic- turesque one worn in the second aect—of beavy pink satin opening over white satin draped with exquisite lace, which also fell in deep ruffles from the elbow sleeves— was the one most liked, this costume being completed with some very beautiful roses, some of which held here and there the lace draping the front of the skirt, while a single one nestled in her powdered hair. In the last two acts, at Triplet's cottage, her quilted rose satin skirt with the ruche around the bottom, and the quaint waist and Paniera of most becoming green satin iined with white silk and brocaded in gold, was artistic. In the same play Margaret Craven, as the little wife from the country, was i sweetly pretty in a frock of gray and pink watered silk; the skirt being of the pink, was unusually effective. I would like to own a gray cape lined with pale pink such as she wore, the hood being very becoming. The minuet danced at the conclusion of the second act deserved the encore it received; for the harmonious blending of colors and the graceful movements of the | participants made it worthy of high praise rom an artistic standpoint. Arropos of the burglaries which have so lately occured, will you tell me why people who own much silver or numerous jewels do not send them to the safe deposit when out of town? Orif they consider it un- neccessary to do so, why do they put their valuables all together in the most obligin way for Mr. Burglar, in a drawer orchest I understand burglars are usually pressed | for time, so let me advise you, who have hitherto been so considerate, to scatter your valuable possessions over the house, o that on your return somz may have { eluded the house breakers’ search. | Whenever I see a jewel tray in which are lying handsome jeweled rings, pins, ete., on the bureau in a hotel I cannot but feel that the owner deserves to lose every one of them for offering such a temptation | to servants, who will not be excused on the | plea of kleptomania if discovered. ‘Women from the East frequently arrive here with the idea that our stores are very inferior and about a year behind the times. This idea is rapidly dying out I am glad to say, but from a desire to know how our sto] really compare with the most ex- | clusive and high-priced Eastern ones I fre- | quently write for samples of the latest fabrics, and having relatives in New York experience no difficulty in securing the most exact information relative to such points as may not be found in even our best fashion papers. By a late mail {arrived for me a great pile of samples, | and among them are the alpacas with the { little silvery wavy lines of silk through them for §1 25 a yard and a very handsome black one fifty-four inches wide for $2 per | yard. Then there are odd goods in tiny checked effects, a black ground crossed with lines of green, blue and a pinkish shade. Then I have the newestcloths to be used for the great domino cloaks which will be so universally popular for evening wear. I could go on and talk about these fabrics for a considerable space, but it is unnecessary to do so, as with few excep- tions these same goods will very soon be found on our own_counters; indeed, yes- jterday I ascertained that some have already been uncased and are on view. We need not fear for the fate of the full skirt so long as 54-inch materials are being made in such quantities. MARCELLA, - FOR MER. { 0Oda,is it not, that Henry Irving was knighted as ‘‘Sir Henry” instead of Sir | John, for John Henry Brodrib is his true | name, Henry Irving being an assumed one; but when the list was published of those knighted on the Queen’s last birth- day the assumed name of the great actor was given instead of his baptismal one. ‘W. S. Gilbert will personally superintend the production in New York of his recent play, *His Excelliency.” He 1s a tall, stalwart, determined-looking man, with a handsome, ruddy face, surrounded with curly gray hair. He has a cavalry mus- tache, and is fastidious astodress. Speak- ing of his career, it has been remarked: “A unique feat in dramatic authorship, and one that is without precedent in the annals of the stage, is that Mr. Gilbert’s name has appeared on the London play- bills without a single break for a quarter of a century.” On good authority we have the informa- | tion that silk waistcoats are to be the style, and one worn by a member of the most aristocratic circle in London at a dinner recently given is thus described: “It showed a diminutive rosebud, thrown with unparem carelessness upon a white 1 ground.” Mr. Drew wore in “That Imprudent Young Couple” a double-breasted brown linen waistcoat, such as I described last week as being the rage this summer East. It of course had mother-of-pearl buttons. In every act of this pretty comedy Mr. Drew was garbed with absolute correct- ness. An odd fad which has just been taken up rather extensively at Newport is the com- bination of the silk and even flannel shirts with white linen collars and cuffs. These are sewed on. The effect is rather smart. Cotton ties continue in high favor, but i the foulard bow and white hunting stock are occasionally to be seen at fiasbem watering places. Never have white flannels been so universally worn at Newport as at pres- ent, but naturally every one is suffering from a violent yachting mania which will ]a“t until the great race is a thing of the past. Frock coats are as fashionable as ever. Men most thoroughly comprehending what constitutes good form and who dress under all circumstances exactly as the oc- casion demands are remarkable frequently for doing exactly what is appropriate and not following blindly and foo'i)iahly certain laws laid down by fashion. Arthur Byron showed us at the Baldwin last Monday an appropriate tennis suit, his bicycle one being equally good. The stockings worn on both occasions were in the lhtest style, being of heavy Scotch ‘wool. Itis a matter of surprise to me how many men seem perfectly content to be bald. In most cases this is quite unneces- sary, for whilein New York a few years ago I saw several men who had been al- most totally bald ref'elcing in an abundant new crop of hair, all the result of following a perfectly simple course of treatment under the direction of a man who has made the scalp his study for years, and as a natural result is now reaping a pienfi.fnu supply of ducats. Only complimentary remarks have been made by those most competent to judge concerning Mr. Barrymore's apparel since his arrival here, and his costumeof rich brown brocade and satin, worn in “‘Masks and Faces,” was so excellent as to tempt many to reconsider their decision never to allow the picturesque old styles to be re- -vived, C. C. WITH K LITTLE OLD WOMAN ON THE SANDS [FUSSSSSRUISUREUPIEVE SR ‘We started out for a holiday all to our- selves, because we were very old and very dear friends and had not seen each other for many a day. A grievous ill fortune had sent us many miles apart, but we had met again for one long, precious day, which we should fool and play away to suit ourselves and nobody else in the world. That was only a few weeks ago, and my little oid friend has gone again, leaving so strange & memory of thatday in the hills and on the sands that I could wish it less sweet were the voice of loneli- ness which beguiles it less persistent in its whisperings. Had she not been so small, so timid, so fragile, so dainty and confiding and affec- tionate and gentle and quaint, and perhaps had not the dimples in her cheeks been so bewitching, and possibly had not her quiet laughter been so full of that merriment which expresses a love of fun made com- plete by perfect happiness, and undoubt- edly had not the fine feminine graces with which her soul was filled possessed so great a power to twist a big man around ber finger, the day would not have been 80 bright, nor the hours so fleet, nor the memory of it all so tinged with loneli- ness. She was an old little woman; that is to say, she was 12, and it seemed to her that when a woman arrives at that age she has passed the uttermost bounds of antiquity and is hastening into decrepitude. ~But however aged she deemed her frame, her soul was young. The time will come soon enough when that sball have— But this is not a lecture on mummies and souls. It is merely to tell how two children, one an old woman of 12, and the other a young man of—anywhere between 30 and 100—went out for a lark in the hills and on the sands of San Francisco, and played and fooled away a Shlnwfi day. T'do not care what it may be'that impels the male of the human species to tease with the greatest pleasure those of the op- posite sex of whom he 1s fondest, and who are least able to resist the persecution. But the fact exists, and was known long before the days of Rory O'More. Certainly I in- du]ge\f this simian instinct that day to the meanest of lengths. Standing beside one of the big guns on the hill back of Fort Winfield Scott— i “Bess,” said I, “'hereis a fine treat for you. You would fit snugly in the bore of this gun. If Ishould put some powder in first, and then gush you in feet foremost, and then fire the gun, what a wonderful sail through the air you would haye! Away out to sea you would go, outflying the birds, splitting the wind like a_rocket and settling down gently on the deck of that ship which is heading for the Gate.” Then I caught her up to load the gun with her, and of course she screamed and resisted in desperate earnestness, and then iggled merrily when I had set her down. Fhe beginning of a certain sort of tragedy which shadows the memory of that aay was the prompting of my evil genius to make a sand-man on the beach of the Pre- s1alio. By theexercise of such cunning as an evil instinct can conjure into activity, I had maliciously fixed my little old friend’s at- tention upon arranging in the damp sand some fantastic mosaic which I had de- signed for her beguiling and which she was industriously constructing with some shin- ing pebbles which we had garnered on the sands. Thus occupied, she did not observe me constructing the sand-man behind her back; but when I had finished the work (with an art in which I take a considerable pride) T drew her aftention first to the channel, intending to bring her notice thus deviously to my wretched creation lying stark on the beach. had been rammed and sunk in the dark and told her of the struggles of the people in the water; where the City of New York had gone upon-the rocks nns lay miserably drownin%fordlys, with her nose pushed upward through the billows; where Blos- 1 showed her where the City of Chester | som Rock had been blown up with a thun- dering commotion thst strewed the tide with gend fish; where the fishermen draw their nets, beaching five tons of small fry at a haul and sending them to be canned back of Harbor View and graced with the pretty labels which ordinarily Bordeaux canners affix to the boxes containing the sardine catches of Concarneau; where the Sleeping Beauty or.the Old Woman of Tamalpais (the designation being a matter of sentiment rather than .of vision) stretches her ugly length along the western ridge of the mountain, living on fog and the idle chatter of Sausalito; where the gentle antelope came down the slopes of the Marin hills sixty-two years BEO to gaze in wonder at the ship that bore the author of “Two Years Before the Mast’” through the Golden Gate; where I had once seen a beautiful sight—the weird shimmer of the soft blaze in the lighthouse of Alcatraz steal over the dnnciflz waves of the chan- nel toward Fort Mason, contrasting its gentle amber light on the water with the glowing orange of the western sky, and suddenly and unaccountably disappearing from the water when the booming of the sunset gun announced the close of day; where— But at that moment the sand-man, lying stark on the beach, sprang forth liv- ing and formidable to the observation of my little old friend; for my easterly reach of arm toward Aleatraz had brought the sand-man into the corner of her eye, and my eloquence was drowned in her ery of consternation. I was conscious of two lithe arms clutching my body, and a dimpled little face buried in my waistcoat and a stifled supplication: “Qh, dearest, take me away! Take me away! Something has been washed up on the beach!” g One side of my face was aching to laugh and the other was suppressing a sob.If I ha had two hearts one would have expanded and the other cracked. But the sand-man lay stark and rigid, the empty sockets of his sand-skull staring idly at the sky, and his wide, toothless mouth gasping for a breath of the soft wind which had come all the way from Nippon for that sorry spectacle. And his legs, so straight and rigid, ended in : upturned toes that, could they have moved, might have wriggled an insult to the Bleeving Beauty of Tamal- Enis; and his sand-arms, bearing in the and of one of them a vagrant wisp of straw for a floral offering to the dead, pressed close upon his chest, lest the heart within should burst. It is sweet for a big man to have a wee mite of a little old woman cling iu terror to him like that, and the evil in him con- soles him with the. reflection that the end justifies the means. And so, with one side of his face gleeful and the other tear- stained, be may lift his little ola friend in his arms and kiss a dimple in either fear- stricken cheek and u* with all the solemn villainy that inspires him: “That is nothing, sweet. He—he will never suffer any more, dearie. He has been—been that way so long that he doesn’t mind it now. Really, sweet, he is bappier that way, don’t you know, and when the tide comes in again it will take him and—" “Oh, I can’t bear it! Take me away, take me away!"’ A tighter clutch of my neck, a deeper burying of the r pallid little face, dimples and all, in my shoulder, and a little heart thumping against m{ breast. “But, honey,” I urged, holding m. ground, ‘‘one ought to accustom one’s self 1o such sights as this. Even little girls should learn to be brave. Sup , sweet- heart, that you should be walking on these sands some day, and—well, you know that Icome here very often to see the fisher- men haul their nets, to watch the scream- ing gulls that clamor for their share, to see the lights from Alcatraz and Lime Point come dancing over the water and converg- ing at my feet. Suppose that you shouid find me dving here as this poor creature lies, would you not stop and—" “Oh, dearest, Fm are killing me, you are killl’in; me! Take me away, take me away The close amwhlléfil a D, and the dimples of ging in mortal ter- little old woman Tor to your neck may not prove sufficient to soften the heart of the evil spirit within you, but when it comes to downright sobs of agony, and the quivering of every nerve in a fragile frame, then the merry side of I:ur face is likely to make itself as ridicu- us as the other. ] As dyet she had caught but a glimpse of the dreadful thin, yini so stark and si- lent on the beach. What conscience T could muster to the aid of my conduct I now called into service, and aimed to prove to her by the evidence of her own eyes that | it was only a sand-man that had stealthily made with my own bands while her back was turned, and not a poor u; east of the sea. She must have divined, by the exercise of a fine instinet that be- longs to her sex, that I was contemplating a violent movement in order to make her face the dreadful thing on the sands, for after a short little gasping scream my sweet friend lay limp and senseless in my arms. L S R S Y She had gone to bed hours after that scene in a room adjoining mine, and I had tucked the covers about her and kissed each of the dimples that now were nestling among the returned roses of her cheeks. for she was very tired and sleepy. We had been to the theater that evening and had done everything under the sun to banish the memory of the thing lying stark and silent on the beach, a calm and somewhat stern explanation of it having done much to achieve the victory of quietude. Then I closed the communicating door and went to bed. I don’tknow how long I had been asleep, but I o now that I was awakened by two soft lithe arms stealing round my neck and a gentle little voice pleading in my ear: “Dearest, you don’t mind, do you, if [ keep the door open? For don’t you know I can’t sleep when it’s closed,and I do love to hear you snore!” OPPOSED BY SOCIALISTS, Battle of Sedan Divides the German Colony Into Factions. American and French Soclalists Join the Germans in the Opposition. The twenty-fifth annual celebration of the battle of Sedan during the KFranco- German war of 1870 will be held to-day in Eintracht Hall on Twelith street, near Folsom, under the auspices of the German Krieger Verein of San Francisco and the veterans of the German army who fought in this and other memorable battles dur- ing that war. In the evening there will be afestival in B’nai B'rith Hall. Great prep- arations are being made by the German- American colony for the event, which will be attended by nearly all of the German colony and their families. In the after- noon the opening address will be deliv- ered by R. Weineke, the president of the Krieger Verein. The German Consul will be present and Vice-Consul O. Lohan will make a few remarks. The oration will be delivered by Charles Bundschu. Several others will speak. The evening festival will be preceded by a parade of the Krieger Verein and the veteran warriors from the armory to the hall. They will all wear the iron Maltese cross, that medal for bravery so dear to the German soldier’s heart. More than this they will parade in fuil uniform and bearing arms. Permission to bear rifles and side arms has been granted by Ad- jutant-General Barrett of the Governor’s staff, as they could not do so without this | permission. On arriving at the hall the warriors and their friends will be enter- tained by literary exercises and a concert. Interspersed in the programme will be living ]fi:mreu and tableaux illustrative of the battle scenes and camp life of the Franco-German war, - The celebration will not be held without opposition. The German socialists of this City disapprove of celebrating this or any other battle. They contend that it is a celebration of murder and slaughter of the masses, which 1s contrary to their belief of the treatment that man should bestow upon his fellow man. So determined are they to put their stamp of disapproval upon ay’s celebration that they set to work to get up a counter movement and hold a meeting of condemnation in the Turk-street temple. The counter-movement is led by Dr. Leiss of the German Free Religions con- gregation, who will deliver a spirited ad- dress. Not satisfied with simply express- ing their own disapproval of the celebra- tion of battles in general and the battle of Sedan in particular, the German socialists bave invited the French and American socialists to join in the opposition meet- ing. The invitation has been accepted by both dorders. and a large attendance is ex- pected. Mr. Bundschu, who will deliver the ora- tion for the Krieger Verein celebration, stated that he believes that great victories should be remembered in a proper man- ner, and above all the battle of Sedan should not be forgotten. While he has agreed to deliver the oration, he does not wish to be placed ina false position as opposing the socialists o1 their beliefs re- gurdin peace and warfare. He will clearly efine his position in his speech. CALIFORNIA LOST IT. The Waitekaurl Mine in New Zealand Proves a Valuable Prop- erty. California capital lost a handsome in- vestment when the Waitekauri gold mine in New Zealand slipped through the finan- cial fingers of Alvinza Hayward and Charles Lane, who were negotiating for it at the time of its purchase by a London company. Thoma3s H. Russell, who has been for eight years manager of the Waihi gold mine in New Zealand, owned by the same company, was in the City yesterday direct from the mines en route to London, via New York, and his_report of the property was referred to by Hugh Craig as evidence of the judgment of the California capital- ists. r. Craig said: Dr. Scheidel, who wrote the State reporton the cyanide process of reducing refractory ores and who erected a plant for the Utica mine, was authorized by Messrs. Hayward and Lane to cable to New Zealand, when it was learned that the Waitekauri gold mine was for sale, and offer £5000 for the property. This offer leaked out, and Mr. Russell secured two- thirds of the mine for £1100. The fact that the ield of gold and the development of the mine Tave been such as to raise the price of the shares, of which there are 150,000, to £4 each, is :uflicien: evidence of the value of the prop- erty. We hear occasionally that California capital is not enterprising and does not reach out. ‘Well, here is an instance of the effort to reach out as far as New Zealand, and which failed because somebody let the fact of the negotia- tion leak out. There is & £3,000,000 property that California money was reaching for. In speaking of the mine, Mr. Russell said : The Waihi mine under the cyanide process has developed into a big pay mine with an average production of 3000 tons per month, worth £3 5s. per ton. The Waitekauri is a simi- lar mine, in which the ores are refractory and would yield toe no other treatment than the cglnide process. The whole mine cost us less than £3000. My father, Thomas Russell, is the chairman of both companies, with head offices in London, but I have given up the position of mir;e superintendent and am going home to Test. —————— ‘Shot Through the Floor. The report of a pistol shot coming from the direction of the License Collector’s office short- 1y after 10 o’clock yesterday morning caused a wild rush in that direction. People expected to hear of a suicide or murder, but it turned out that one of the deputy collectors had been examining his revolver when it accidentally exploded and the bullet went through the floor. OVERWORKED STUDENTS, BRAIN FATIGUE IS MUCH UNDERESTI- MATED AS A RULE. Work Should Be Supplemented by Something Which Will Tend to Sustain Strained Nerves—Safe and Certain Methods. There is nothing which so quickly affects the brain as lack of sleep, and that is the principal reason that when it is first ob- served steps should immediately be taken for its cure. Neither the insane asylum nor private home very dangerous. Delay is where idiots are confined are pleasant to think of; but still, knowing all this, the brain-worker goes on and on, working pos- sibly his nineteen hours a day, and spending a sleepless night thinking that his constitution is not being impaired. ‘' Nothing could be more fallacious. The “eight hours a day” State laborer will be in a year less fatigued—that is to say, his system will be less impaired by his work—than the brain-worker will be in a single month, provid- ing he keeps up the rate of work indicated above. Possibly this is never seen so clearly as it is in young men and even boys. Take, for instance, the youth who goes to his State University, full of energy, ambition and not uncommonly assurance of success. He works day in and day out, and tries to make his days longer by borrowing a few hours from the night. The result is not perceptible at once, and he goes on under the happy illusion that he is doing his constitution no harm. But the day of reckoning will come. It has come to hundreds. Take, for-instance, the case of Mr. James S. Stuyveant. He is just 24 years old. Providence has given his father quite a for- tune and endowed the young man with a sincere desire to shine in the world of astronomy. He has devoted eight years, he says, to its study. He has spent much midnight oil, and to-day he is not only a mental but a physical wreck. (The word “wreck” is used here in a comparative sense.) If he had taken any care of himself it is indubitable but that Mr. Stuyveant would have been heard of among men like Barnard, Burnham and others, but the study was more than the frame could stand. However, all is not lost yet. He has been taking Henley’s Celery. , Beef and Iron for three months, and the certainties seem to be that before the beginning of 1896 this grand remedy—this only real sustenant—will place the young astronomer on his physical feet again. He is already working, and is willing to admit that but for Dr. Henley’s wonderful combination of these three grand tonics and system-builders the probabilities are that he would have to-day been a paralytic. - He says: “I had to give up my post-graduate studies”” With the help of Celery, Beef an his $ure is a permanent one. saved. Iron he has resumed them. It is a LIFE as well as a mind And NEW TO-DAY. 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All this and more can be had at Highland prings. New hotel. Finest dining-room north of San Francisco. : From San Francisco 1t costs only 88 for the round_trip, and the hotel rates are $1 50 to §3 50 per day or $10 to $18 per week. Take the S. F, and N. P. Railway via Pleta, thence by a short, delighttul stage ride. J. CRAIG, Manager. San Francisco office, 316 Montgomery st. DUNCAN'’S SPRINGS Hopland, Mendocino County. 'EW HOTEL AND COTTAGES, PICTUR- uely situated in the mountains, 2 miles from Hopland; 1000 feet above sea level, and 250 feet above the Valley: effervescent mineral baths, hot or _cold; magnesia, seltzer, soda, iron, borax and sulphur springs; sure cure for’ kidney and liver troubles and liquor or morphine habit; pisno billiards, tennis, croguet, baseball; free bus m Hopland 'Station, S. F. & N. P. R. R.; 810 to $12 per week: take 7:40 A. M. train. All severe cases of sickness attended by the resi- dent physician, Dr. J. Herbert Reeve, il 51 0. HOWELL, Proprietor. 'SIIYY 030003 Board $8 to_g.fl) Per Week. $8—ROUND TRIP TICKET—$8 ANDERSON SPRINGS. J. ANDERSON, PROPRIETOR, Lake County. BALDWIN'S TALLAC HOUSE, LARKE TAXEORE. HE SUMMER RESORT OF CALIFORNIA: 20 hours from San Francisco: more than 6000 feet above sea level; accommodations first class and attractions unsurpassed. gL LAWRENCE & CO., Lessees and Managers, Tallac, Cal. MARK WEST SPRINGS, AR SANTA ROSA—THE MOST BEAUTI- ful spot in Sonoma county: fine fishing and hunting: round trip, 48 75; table first Class. Ade dress FRESE & J' N IVY LODGE, Soguel Avenu, Santa Cruz, Cal., SELECT PRIVATE BOARDING. grounds, frulis and flowers; central; firat- class accommodations. LAUREL DELL HOTEL, ON LAUREL DELL LAKE (FORMERLY Lower Blue Lake). A new hotel—the most artistic in the county. ‘The rush is over. Rooms can now be had and you will be treated well. Boat- ing, batbing, fishiog, etc., are among the many amusements. Rates, $8 to $12 per week. Address H. WAMBOLD, Bertha P. 0., County. REDUCED RATES,» At Saratoga Springs, Lake County, Cal., ACHELOR P. 0.—FOR FALLAND WINTER. Large, airy, hard-finished rooms. en suite. Ac- commodations ' firsi-class. Hot mineral baths. ‘Write for particulars to J. CONNER. Proprietor. OARD ON A RANCH 2000 FEET ELEVA- tion: zood board accommodations; excel- lent hunting: terms moderate. Address Grove, Occidental, Sonoma County, Cal. /E_DESIRE TO CORRESPOND WITH N lovers ofcountry life or invaiids wishing fur- Py month or yeer; very Seat Froit Hanch, Teanion, Somsms Comais: HEAPEST AND BEST IN AMERICA-THE WEEKLY CALL, sent to any address in the Canada one year for $1 50, post~ 117 Large