Subscribers enjoy higher page view limit, downloads, and exclusive features.
THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, AUGUST 18, 1895. 15 To the uninitiated it may not seem a difficult undertaking to -write about | fashions between seasons, but at present it | is not easy to make the simple little sum- mer gowns interesting. Fortunately, how- | ever, I have had more than a peep at a few truly charming toilets, which wil be | seen during the -latter part of this month at Del Monte, and somé good dresses were donned for the hop there last week. The tall, fair millionairess whose home is In the Western Addition loo unusually handsome, but then she is always radiant 10f lovely in'the evening, v toilets, for .unac be does not apy to me nor y one else I fancy excepting in the case of very-yc ng chil- compre- | ble and most dren ved ner becomin, One De y impr t is most su rier gown I greatly black and ieted, with ym extend- e lining is square-cut ed-with closely neck being fin- ) a beading of all pansies. The rdle-like effect ] age is arge bunch Cali- 0 appear to hold h-covers the large ite silk. This gown made by one of our best r,'of pale green satin, has skirt, with a bow of pale in front of the hem. is of the satin beautifully em- with- sequins, which change Jest. green to & light yellow, a_puft ed; the neck and the e fabric but of the \e double puff;” the ume that later we ces. Very beauti- istically” trained | of the waist to the left terminated in a small it shoulder were up- e-green satin. Halfa pleated-blac ed wit They will reach us next nnot readily believe that we o say farewellto our dear, huge, leeves. Still, if the rage for inette fashions continues we can make a waist and sleeves out r of our present ones. I hope for consider means a slight n of present styles; and oh, I pe the long shoulder seam will not be imperative, as only tall, slender women look well with their bodices so cut. ys ago I heard some young girls ting on white alpaca and mobair and deploring the fact that they soiled so rapidly around the bottom. Now let “me_enlighten you girls. Your skirts | shiould be ‘very wide, silk lined, much ed and only have a slightly stiff inter- lining. Now your skirts may meet all | ments and: yet they will be | e and-so will all skirts of | less they just escape the id_all ‘around -and- are of perfectly | n length, very lovely young maiden who lives out - on- Jackson street is taking a kful of- the sweetest confections in slin and. lace ever put together, and even those .much opposed to such’ sim- v,'would, if allowed to inspect these become converts to their unusual A word of advice to’ you girls. When you see at:the summer sales short lengths ndies, secure them if in becoming They will make just the sort of gowns you want for the evening at home ana a flowered skirt is very lovely with a atching the ground of the skirt. sufficient for skirt and sleeves when my woven by strong silk threads rather than when crinkled in the usual crepon fashion, | one advantage sbout them is that can be made over cotton taffeta with | effect a5 over silk. Young cially fond of these gowns t out, rounded slightly wes at tk 6 top in-what 13 called the Dutch k,“and-_finished ' there . with gathered Lhis waist is completed with white hon drawnsquarely across the bust and back-and passes - over ‘the shoulders with high knots of loops standing there. Recently when many roung people were | at Sania Cruz a slender branette of about 16 was conspicuous for-her dainty simple | gowns, twoof which I will'describe. One was of thé cotton stuff, known as “Vichy cloth,” in a pale shade of lavender barred with black lines. The skirt was full and plain with' a deep hem; the bodice slightly bloused in’ front-2nd -held in place by a black ribbon belt and “silver buckle. The stock was ~of white lawn and lawn was also inserted ‘as two sharp V’s back and front, giving just the.requisite “touch.” Worn with this was:a large white rice- straw hat: with' bows of lavender ribbon and two small choux of black satin. The second gown of a creamy white can- vas was absolutely plain, but evidently the work of one of -our best tailors, so exquisitely = delicate - did the little vest and jaunty jacket fit. The jacket had a -roll collar -which is remark- ably difficult to cut properly. Three lines of stitching ran around the well-hung skirt. A correct sailor hat and chamoise gloves completed this toilet, noticeable principally for its excellent cut. From Newport comes the news that Miss | Fair is now playing golf with much enthu- siasm, and 1s -considered one of the best players there.” She usually wears a white duck- costume, with- leggins of the same material, and a large straw hat with a nar- row band of white satin ribbon. A white satin belt and large gold buckle completes her.costume, and in it :Miss Birdie is said to look exceedingly well. Miss Bands is usually seen, when golfing, in a suit of | vellow duck, with heavy golf stockings and a black belt and silver buckleand a large sailor hat. Others are to be seen only in tweed or cloth of gold suits, much diversity in taste prevailing. Some one in speaking of “Hen’’ dinners at Newport says they are a novelty. Not at all. More than two years ago when in Washington I was present at a most de- lightful one. "But what especially amused me was the wayin which several of the young women would now and then remark that they thought it sach an improvement | not having any men present, when all the time it ‘was so evident what they really did think. We have our lunch parties, and then all subjects dear to the feminine heart can be discussed, so I do not believe that “Hen” dinners will ever be much the Tage. g A Rhinestone buttons and those of beauti- vhite silk crepons I mentioned in | paper are preferred when loosely | much worn_that it is safe to predict that buttons will figure conspicuously next season. One of our belles wears, with excellent effect, at her throat a large curved silver buckle. Such, whether of steel, gold or silver, are very swell for long-throated women; but those with short necks look absolutely absurd with any such arrange- ment. Why ‘do people with the sallowest of complexions insist on tying or draping around their throats ribbons which em- hasize every yellow tinge? 1f you do not know what colors suit you it would pay to give a first-class dressmaker $25 for her opinion as to what colors you should in- dulge in, color being an all-important factor. It is consoling for most of us the in- formation that the simplest of ornaments are the most becoming when a low-cut waist is worn. A novelty in dress goodsisa lovely green crepon, which has a large design in black silk woven in. A gown composed of it i The full godeted skirt, the sleeves and basqued bodice are of the crepon, and the vest is of green silk, with shaded trim- ming. Yachts and yachting are still favorite topics, and a fetching blue serge gown worn by a sunny -slender blond is charm- ing. The usual skirt is of the serge and the round bloused bodice is beautified with a white vest of cloth, a small high collar and large flaring sailor oneof the cloth. Pretty pointed cuffs finish the sleeves and a white yachting cap and chamois gloves complete the costume. A useful dress is of fine black and white cloth, made up on the bias. It hasa neat little collar of black satin and what is called a girdle of the same, but in reality it is something unusual. being exactly like a corset in cut, excepting that it is short. However, it gives the unpretentious gown a certain air of chic. This idea carried out in a blue and white check would be good. Braid is beginning to appear on the bot- | tom of traveling frocks, frills of lace, silk or mbbon adorn many evening ones, but the deep lace flounce, caught up here and there with knots of ribbon or half a dozen flowers, is still popular. A white satin yoke embroidered in jet | gives a dressy appearance to the simplest waists of gauze or chiffon. Theyoke iscut in deep points, extending far out over the shoulder. The stock f the satin. Panels of accordion pleated silk, spangled or flowered gauze are very much in vogue for evening dresses, and a narrow | skirt can thus be utilized effectively. The in skirt lately worn on the Bald- | green sa win stage was a charming example of this new mode. Parisian women have been indulging in | rowing very generally of late, as their | leading physicians have commended it, | saving it would beautify their figures, so there is a ladies’ boat club at a convenient spot on the Seine where many novel cos- tumes are indulged in. Of two I shall quote the descriptions. They were worn by a girlof 18 and a woman of 25: “The first was full zouave knickerbockers of fine crimson serge, accordion pleated and gath- ered in below the knees, with a shirt of | the same shade of silk, a Bolero jacket of | white serge trimmed with narrow crimson silk braid, a Tam o’ Shanter hat of white wool with a crimson knob and pompons of the same, white silk hose and brown leather shoes. The second consisted of a short full box pleated skirt of white drill, a jacket of the same with dark green mos- quetaire cuffs opening over a vest of fine | green serge; the drawers, showing slighily below the dress, were of green serge made of medium fulliiess; moss green stockings, a white sailor bat with dark green band and brown morocco shoes.” At all our seaside resorts this season women have shown a keen interest in boats and boating, not a few having learned to handle their sculls in a | masterly manner. and a limited number can sail a boat scientifically and run a Jaunch. Some of the best rowers are to be found in Belvedere, two young sisters being especially experts. Little girls living in warm places during the summer are made comfortable in yoke slips of gray or brown holland linen, made |a la Mother Hubbard, with a shallow | square yoke, to which all the material is | gatbered and hangs loose from the figure. | A little turned-down collar of the linen | can be either hemmed or stitched, but em- broidery is frequently used instead as a ruffie around the neck. The sleeves are mutton-leg shape, and have either cuff or | ruffles around the wrist. Dainty frocks in this same style are made of China blue or mignonette green linen, Narrow inser- tion usually trims them. Girls from 8 to 12 wear dresses of the | same fabrics, but the waists are usually box {;leated, with a small turned-down col- lar, but a broad collarette of the linen, | deeply hemmed, with a narrow white bead- | ing above the linen, 1s a pretty change. Others 2gain have a jacket and shirt, with which are worn colored shirt waists. Even very small girls are arrayed in | large flowered organdies. The trimming | is a cream-white lawn collarette of great size, pointed out on the sleeves, and lower still down the frontand back and edged with two narrow frills of butter lace. When ;:qrqpleted such frocks are fit for veritable airies. An eftort is being made to introduce dresses with short sleeves and low necks, for children’s wear in the evening. Pink is the favorite color for the little people’s best gowns, whether of dimity, lawn, pique or organdie, and with them are worn hats of Neapolitan or fancy braids, and the old familiar Leghorn hats are seen trimmed with large, many-looped bows of satin or taffeta ribbon and pink roses, arbutus, or any pretty pink blossom. Lace is more used for the children’s frocks than ever before. Many embroid- eries are seen also. India silks in pale shades are in favor for the children, and a new fabric is grena- dine in large Persian designs in very rich colorings on a white ground. Even the babies are having their hair | parted in the middle, and as soon as a fully painted Dresden ‘china have been so child _is old enough itis arranged in thick the property of a fashionable woman. | and three little | | or black lace of light texture. curls, not just curled at the ends, but all their length, as in the ringlets of yearsago. Black, white and tan shoes are worn, and the stockings, to be in the best taste, are absolutely plain and match the shoes in color. A The best way to keep straight hair in curl is to wet the hair first thoroughly with alcohol or cologne and curl while wet, leaving the curls uncombed until the hair dries thoroughly. A touch of powder on curls and forehead will remove any slight moisture, and we are assured that even the straightest hair when so treated will stay curled for hours. The touch of powder must be so slight as not to show. As I have announced, the pompadour style of dressing the hair is the latest in Paris, but the wise matron or maiden modifies all styles to suit her own particu- lar type, and so is always fascinatingly stylish, and this should be our chief aim. Nevertheless, two prominent women here who are noticeable for their ugly, unsuit- able gowns frequently inform _their modistes that they doc not care in the least whether a fabric or style is becoming or not, as they intend to have it anyway if it is said to be fashionable, and yet one would imagine -that these women would have better judgment. Not long ago I heard of an excellent way of making a model on which the home dressmaker can design her own waists. She must take one of her best- itting old bodices and, after buttoning or hooking it up the front, sew it together securely, then cut off any buttons and round the bottom sew a stout piece of canvas. Then let her sew the sleeves at the wrists and stuff the whole with saw- dust or bran. After putting in as much as possible she must shake dummy several times daily for abouta week, constantly adding more stuffing, as it will settle by degrees. When it is not possible to put in any more, s»w a piece of pasteboard around for the neck, and then stitch across that another piece of stout material, and if you are clever and understand cutting and fitting a Iittle you can make your own gowns with excellent effect provided your figure is moderately good. I read that others besides my little Frenchwoman use well-fitting corset cov- ers as foundations on which to drape deli- cate fabrics for evening wear, as recently a young woman using a corset-cover as a foundation made one of the fancy waists now so much in vogue, of ivory-white satin, covered entirely with cream-white These cor- ages are trimmed with various colored ribbons and have sleeves with a balloon puff, shirred in at the elbow and finished with a frill of black lace and knots of bright ribbon, which are arranged in bands over the shoulders, where the sleeves are put in, and end in knots or rosettes at the bust line. The belt and collar match in velvet the ribbons. Such waists are most effective when worn with a black satin or moire skirt, and it looks well to define the seams of a moire skirt with narrow jet pas- sementerie. Many expert needlewomen have been amusing themselves lately embroidering their sash ends with artistic_designs in colored beads and spangles. Large bows are beautified in the same way. The work is said to be easy and quite fascinating. A simple but charming morning costume worn at one of our fashionable summer re- sorts is thus described: ‘‘lt consists of an entire skirt of white English needlework in a small wheel pattern, made over an underskirt of soldier-blue silk. A narrow accordion-pleated frill of the silk peeps be- low and_preserves the edge of iheaina skirt. The corsage is a Louis Quinze jacket of soldier-blue broadcloth, with full skirt. This jacket opens over a_ vest of soldier-blue silk, closely embroidered in scarlet and gold. The prettiest thing about the jacket is the shoulder cape of white needlework over a soldier-blue silk, with Medici collar of the same. The needlework isevery- where turned in or under and is finished by no edge whatever. The coatislined with scarlet silk, which rarely shows, however, and there are two pockets, one on each side, and large buttons of blue cloth, em- broidered in red and gold.” Concerning the costumes worn by the ladies of Vienna when spending the sum- mer in their mountains, among which they climb to the loftiest summits and whence they descend the most dangerous ice- slopes with the swiftness of practiced mountaineers, following the chamois on narrow ledges of rock which give ordinary mortals the shivers to even contemplate, Vogue’s correspondent writes: “No bloomers for them! No costumes or atti- tudes which make one hesitate as to the sex of the being before one’s astonished eyes. A pair of perfectly fitting knicker- bockers worn under a short tweed skirt, a waistcoat of chamois-leather, half con- cealed by a ‘Joppe’ or grarf' cloth, many- Eocketed. green-passpoiled jacket and a 'yrolese bhat adorned with a chamois beard; tall gaiters of untanned leather and stout boots, and they are ready for the mountain. ~ Equally compact are their riding-habits for summer or winter wear, without any frills, ribbons or. lace collars, and gauntlets such as I have seen occa- sionally fluttering about amateur sports- women who knew no better, poor things, but still who ought to have inquired from competent people in order to avoid these mistakes which stamped them at once for ignoramuses of the deepest dye.” With the Louis XVI modes, now so generally seen, the huge ties, cravats and chokers of the same period have made their appearance, and are by no meaus ugly, and this winter will prove a grace- ful substitute for the now all-too common- place boa. They consist of plentifully trimmed folds of muslin or_ gauze, but for really hot weather the deliciously cool Marie Antoinette fichu holds its own. From the fact that the Lamballe hats have found great favor and are adorned not only with tulle ribbon and flowers, but also with a white lisse scari coming from the turned up back and twisted ar- tistically around the neck and fastened in a great bow at the left side, it is predicted that street veils in scarf drapery will soon be seen. Louis XVI jackets will be much worn this winter, and they are to be made with great elegance. One thingem their fayor is that several jackets can be worn with one skirt. White satin Eton jackets are now seen, brocaded with gay flowersand beauti- fully lined. With these come broad Em- pire girdles, double faced, clasping the lwaist and bunched out with many small loops. A bonny English girl about to visit our country brings in one of her trunks next month a novelty worth noting. It is one of the new plaid and atrlpefuilks, which are to be had in such mixtures as red, blue and green, with velvet that exactly matches them, for coats. A social leader here has ordered from the East for this winter an elegant calling- gown. The skirt is to be of the richest black duchess satin, and the little coat is of black velvet, over which are apparently strewn beautiful pink roses. A nouveaute for the table, both graceful and fragrant, is the 1dea of rolling up each dinner napkin in the fashion of days gone by and encircling them with a ring of bflassams mounted on a broad satin ribbon of gay color, which ties in an artistic wind- mifl bow. The art of writing graceful notes is fast becoming a lost art and the telephone is the reason of this, at least our literary writers say so. About our theaters; how impatient we all are to see Drew, and how critical we will be over the gowns. The Lyceum Company has quite spoiled us, so beautiful were the garments worn. This week the trusting litile wife at the Baldwin has been sweetly pretty in lace and muslin, and at the Columbia I liked the Countess’ gown of black velvet and jetted net, and the little maid was fetching in her red frock and white black-trimmed apron. MARCELLA. e FOR MEN. A clever writer recently said that “clothes are human,”’ and I understand the force of the remark, for, as some one else writes, “To wear good clothes, to be correct in one’s appearance, in one’s bearings and in one’s deportment are laudable ambitions and not the whims of a-silly fool who has nothing else to think about. It is only the great unwashed, the untidy in body and soul who scorn to respect themselves enough to put on decent raiment.” As every one has a_greater or less inter- est nowadays in Napoleon taken from a correspondent to Harper's Bazar concerning him show that he held very similar views about apparel asthe two authorities quoted above, and by glancing at the inventory attached to the catalogue of his personal effects for the campaign of 1806 we find that he carried with him eighteen culottes and eighteen vests of white cashmere, three culottes of white velvet, five pairs of trousers for traveling, two purple, two dark blue, one sky blue, two coats belonging to the cos- tume of a chasseur, two habits de grena- duer, two gray redingotes and six robes de chambre. His gray redingote was never put on from indifference to dress, but for comfort. The man who considers the subject of his apparel beneath his consideration and leaves all to his tailor usually looks like a perfect guy, no matter what outlay he makes. A swell Fifth-avenue tailor cuts and fits the golf suits worn at present in brown holland and brown linen. This style is perfection. In England blue serge is tremendously popular and the white is used for tennis and even yachting suits. Steel-gray with a narrow stripe is the prevailing color in trousers. ‘There is a rumor that another attempt will be made this winter to.revive colored cloths for frock coats, which “are to be made with three buttons, silk facing to match and edges singly stitched.” In Eng- land these are being at present worn at gar- denand afternoon parties. The cloths used are green mixture and browns, russet and chocol#te. With our present trousers the effect must be simply hideous. Black morning coats made in New York have not such sharp tails as the English ones and they are usually too much rounded in front. For a while Albert Ed- ward, during this last winter, maae a point of wearing his trousers without the usual crease and the fad was widely taken up, but the crease has returned and is more decided than ever before. Fancy linen waistcoats are much worn and the white ones are in high favor, but should never have black buttons, they making the garment *“‘bad form.” White duck trousers should have worn with them a blue or black serge coat. Shooting-breeches are full, not baggy, fitting quite snugly at the knee, with but- tons well to the front. A broad band of devon is sewn to the bottom, and this is also made to fit round the leg below the knee quite as closely, and over this the upper part falls in fullness; thus the free- dom of the legs is not interfered with. The shooting-coats have, if possible, more pockets than ever. Men who cannot leave the city during the remainder of the sea- son should wear a lounge suit, brown, blue or gray in_pattern, until dinner-time. A colored shirt, tan shoes and a straw hat go with such a suit. Yachtsmen wear either tan or white can- vas boots. The most correct overcoat for wear at present is the covert, fawn, tan or gray, cut reasonably long. When the Baldwin curtain rises on Mon- day evening we will have the pleasure of seeing John Drew, whom critics declare to be the best-dressed actor on the American stage. C. C. ICIENSE - o] NDUSTR W4 N A2 > 28 e N3 P &l MAXN ExDURANCE oF ° HiIGH ATR PRESSURES.— high pressure of compressed air have long been recognized by engineers and physi- to the workman, who may suffer even more seriously from the change from high through which he passes 1a transition. Only voung men ot sound constitution under pressure should be short; the pres- sure should be reduced very gradually in coming out, and a hospital air-lock should be&;rovided, in which men may be placed an chilled, afflicted by the ‘‘bends” or “cais- son disease,” or otherwise injured by a too the latest and most approved maxims of engineering authorities. A series of inter- Yo Tae Lowar or Hu- The dangers attendant on working under cians. The pressure itself is most trying to normal pressure on leaving the air-lock should be employed; the hours of labor the air-lock; the men should rest after treated with heated compressed air if sudden reduction of pressure. These are esting experiments as to human endur- ance of higher pressures than are usually | employed in compressed-air work has re- cently been made in the new harbor works at Bordeaux, France, where the quay foundations are being constructed by the compressed-air system. It is well known that sponge-divers descend from 150 to 200 feet without injury, and the engineer in charge of the harbor works therefore ar- ued that workmen should be able to en- ure corresponding pressure under the more favorable conditions of an air cham- per. He formed a commission of doctors to work with him in ascertaining if men could safely sustain a pressure of some facts | seventy pounds per square inch. The test chamber was_fitted with windows, a tele- phone, electric light and a steam coil, by which any desired temperature could be maintained. Three men volunteered for the tests, one being a regular compressed- air workman, the second an occasional workman and the third a man who had entered the working-chamber only a few times. These men were subjected to pres- sures for a specified length of time, usually about one hour. The tests were com- menced with a pressure of about 28.4 pounds per square inch, and increased gradually by ahout 4.27 pounds per day to 76.8 pounds per square inch, while the time for the pressure reduction was in- creased about ten minutes for each 1.42 pounds increase in pressure. Forty-six pounds pressure was maintained without difficulty; but at 58.3 pounds one of the men was sligntly inconvenienced, and at 65.4 pounds his companion, who was not accustomed to compressed-air work, had to be withdrawn, as he suffered from pains in the side. The man who alone under- went the pressure of 76.8 pounds suffered no inconvenience excepting a tingling sen- sation, which soon passed away. It is now considered that if proper precautions are taken men in good health can stand a ressure of 76.8 pounds square inch; ut means should be provided for. heating the chamber at will, and there should be constantand perfect ventilation. Elevators should be provided to bring the workmen to the surface, as it is found imperative that they should.rest after leaving the air- lock. These experiments show that men can work under compressed air at greater depths than have yet been attempted or considered safe. SraTe CARe oOF ScHOOL CHILDREN'S Teera.—The degeneration of the teeth of the children of to-day has become alarm- ing, and Canada is about to introduce regular dental inspection of the teeth of the children in her publio schcols with a view of remedying the results of neglect on the part of parents. A movement is on foot to make similar inspection compulsory in the public schools of this country. Dr. Richard C, Newton has appealed to the dental profession for suggestions as to how the poor can be induced to preserve their teeth. He has found that the teeth of the very poor are almost universally bad, and in ‘most cases practicall{ the only atten- tion the teeth ever getis when they are pulled out. Bad and insufficient diet lowers the vital forces, dental caries sets in, and with it a tendency to eschew proper foods and seek for softer and more highly seasoned nutriment. This makes the mat- ter worse, for working people should eat food that- requires considerable mastica- tion—so-called strong food, like the black bread and beans upon which German peas- ants thrive so well. Dr. Newton has found that poor people will not go to a dentist, even when urged to do so by their medical adviser, becausé of the expense. He be- lieves that in a few years such facilities will be provided that the poor wiil be able to have their teeth looked to gratuitously, and he proposes that the New Jersey State Dental Society, of which he is a member, should inaugurate the movement by set- ting about the establishment of free dental clinics for the poor. THE REsuLT oF SHORT WoRKING HOURS.— An English manufacturer has communi- cated to a daily paper an interesting re- port of the result of five years’ experience of the eight-hour rule in his works. He says that at first the wnfie»cost per ton went up, then dropped, and is now as low as it was in 1889, when the twelve-hour law was in force. In other words the men get as much work done in eight hours as they used to get done in twelve. Thisis not attributed to a coincidental improve- ment in machinery or the methods of manufacture. The managers of the work who have considered the point are con- vinced that although the men work less hours the aggregate efficiency of their work is not diminished. This view is sup- ported by the showing of the factory books, which rewrd;reatar regularity of attendance, increased application and im- proved health of the workmen. Many of them used to be irregular and drunken, but such cases are now rare. In the long double shift at the end of each week the men often used to be found asleep. Under the new conditions this did not happen. The men look fresher and healthier, and the change in them is markedly shown in the comparatively nimble and lively gait with which they leave the works at the end of the shift. Tuae Voice.—Manv vocal authorities maintain that the voice is greatly affected by diet, and Dr. Pegg, who was once an as- sociate of Liszt, expresses a strong con- firmation of tLis view. Where fish is the chief article of food, fine vocalists are scarce, and the voice in ordinary speech lacks delicacy of timbre and dignity. Dr. Pegg maintains that the most desirable food for singers is of a graminivorous kind, with occasional indulgence in a moderate quantity of meat. He discountenances the idea that malt liquors give strength to the voice, although they may stimulate it for ashort time. Singers who would keep their tones fresh, rich and long should be chary of alcohol in any form. Smoking is not looked upon as injurious to the voice, though if the habit is not kent well in sub- jection it may affect the strength of the vocal organs. MME. M. YALE’S Beauty Secrets. Mme. Yale’s Hair Tonic Stops hair falling in from 24 hours to one week. It is the only discovery known to the medical fraternity to bring back the natural color to gray or faded hair—it makes the hair grow more rapidly than anything else possibly can. Price $1.00 per bottle, 6 for $5.00. Mme. Yale’s Face Powder, Three tints, 50c. Mme. Yale’s Beauty Soap, 25c. Mme. M. Yale’s Complexion Bleach Removes all blemishes from the skin, leaving it clear pink and white; price $2.00 per bottle. Mme. M. Yale’s Skin Food Removes wrinkles and the traces of age—makes the face full and plump; price $1.50. Mme. Yale’s Complexion Cream Softens the skin and makes it fine grained; it will keep & good skin good and improve a bad one. A delicious toilet article. Price $1.00 a jar. % Mme. Yale’s La Freckla Is the only sure cure for Freckles. Price $1.00. Mme. Yale may be consulted by mail free of charge. Mme. Yale’s Bust Food For developing the bust and making the neck phump, $L.50. 25 Mme. Yale’s Guide to Beauty. A valuable book of instructions on “Culti- vating Beauty,” written by Mme. Yale, con- tains seven pictures of the famous beauty. rVfl;tl‘Je mailed FREE TO ALL who will Wfl{l or Mmc. Yale’s Remedies can be had of gists or sent for by mail to Mme. Yale. TEMPLE OF BEAUTY, CHICAGO. NEW TO-DAY. FRATINGER'S Ul St s, The elegant stock of the late Mr. A. M. Fratinger, 105 Kearny street, will be closed out, regard- less of cost, commencing Wednesday, August 14th, at 9 A. M., and continuing daily until disposed of. : FITS CURED (From U. S. Journal of Medicine.) Prof. W. H.Peeke,whomakes aspecialty of Epflepey, Baswithout doubt treated and cured more cases than anyliving Physician ; his successisastonishing. We Baveheard of cases of 20 years’standing cured by him. ‘Hepublighesa valuatle work on this disease which he sends with a large bottle of his absolute cure, free to any sufferer who may send their P.O. and Expressad= dress. We advise anyone wishing a cure to address, ‘Prof. W, H. PEEKE, F. D., 4 Cedar St., New York. OBDONTUNDER DENTAL PARLORS 815 Geary, bet. Larkin and Hyde. R L. WALSH, D. D. S, Prop’r, directly opp. Sar- atoga Hall. Price list: Extraction (painless)25¢ Bone filling 50c: Amal- am filling 50c: gold fill- ing $1: Brmfework 85: Crowns $5: Plates $5 and $7: Cleaning $1. Every operation guaranteed. 3~ On entering our parlors be sure you see DR- WALSH, personally. NOTARY PUBLIC. HARLES H. PHILLIPS, ATTORNEY-AT lawand Notary Public, 658 Market st., oppo- site P alace Hotel, Residence 1620 Fellst. Tele- phone 570. SPECIAL SALE MER' ADBOYS! HATS 30 Per Cent Discount OFF REGULAR PRICE. Boys’ Ydcht Caps, were 25¢, IOW.... Boys’ Yacht Caps, trimmed, were 50, DOW.. Boys’ Sailor Hats, were 50¢, now Bovs’ Leather Caps, were 50¢, nos Boys’ Leather Caps or Sailor’s, were $1, now...70c Boys' Fine Cloth Sailor’s, with fancy orna- ment, weré-$1 50, now.. Men’s Stift Hats, were $1, no Men’s Soft Hats, were §$1, now Men’s Derby Hats, were $1 50, now. Men’s Fedora Hats, were $2, now Men's Soft or Stiff Hats, were $2 50, no ALL HATS AND CAPS SOLD WITH THE SAME DISCOUNT. Al Goods Marked With Plain Figures. Electrical Construction and Repalring of All Kinds. Estimates Given. attention ‘given to Shears and Edged Prices NOTE.—Special Grinding Kazors, Tools by skilled mechanics. moderate. 818-820 Market Street Phelan Building. Factory—30 First Street. ester’s English Diamond Brand. ENNYROYAL PILLS nal and Only Genuine. LADIES ask English Dia- gare, aiways relisble, ruggi ester's mond Brand. stamps for particulars, testimenials snd \Iielior fox Ladien.” i leie, by return Mail, "10,000 Tainonizls, Name Poper. n Rquare, ChichesterC 2 o SUMMER HIGHLAND SPRINGS ON THE BORDER OF CLEAR LAKE, Inalkxe County, Cal. DO, YOU ENIOY A SUPERB CLIMATE, dancing, lawn tennis, croquet, billiards? Do Jou ltke fine bathing, boating, hunting and fishing? you need recuperation and rest afforded by over thifty kinds of mineral springs? Shortest stage Toute into Lake County. ¢ All this and more can be had at Highland Springs. New hotel. Finest dining-room north of San From San Francisco it costs only 8 for the round trip, and the hotel rates are 8150 to 32 50 ake the S. F. perday or$10 1o §16 per week. and N.P. Railway via Pieta, thénce by a short, delightful stage ride. o J. CRAIG, Manager. San Francisco office, 316 Montgomery st. FISHERMEN! 'HE HEADQUARTERS FOR ANGLERS AND their families is at the BOCA HOTEL, BOCA, CAL. ‘The best part of the Truckee River close at hand. An excellent table and newly fitted rooms. A daily stage leaves the hotel for LAKE INDEPENDENCE, The queen of mountain lakes. Now Is the time to fly-fish this grand lake. Average catch, 200 trout per day. For Information and rates address JAS. McDONALD, Boca, Cal. DUNCAN'’S SPRINGS Hopland, Mendocino County. EW HOTEL AND COTTAGES, PICTUR- uely situated in the mountains, 2 miles from Hopland; 1000 feet above sea leve, and 250 feet above the valley: effervescent mineral baths, hot or cold; magnesia, seltzer, soda, iron, borax and sulphut springs; sure curo for kidney and liver troubles and liquor or morphine habit; lano, billlards, tennis, croquet, basenall; free bus m Hopland Station, 8. F. & N. P. R. R.; $10 to #12 per weeke: take 7:40 4. . train, severe cages of sickness attended by the resl- dent physician, Dr. J. Herbert Reeve, 0. HOWELL, Proprietor. MADRONE MINERAL SPRINGS, Santa Clara County. TAGE CONNECTS MONDAY. WEDNESDAY and Saturday. Send for descriptive pamphlet. H. T. DYER, Manager. BALDWIN'S TALLAC HOUSE, LAERKE TAIXOX=E. HE SUMMER RESORT OF CALIFORNIA: 20 hours from San Francisco; more than 6000 feet above sea level; accommodations class and attractions p LAWRENCE & CO., Lessees and Managers, Tallac, Cal. LAUREL DELL HOTEL, LAUREL DELL LAKE RMERLY Lower Blue Lake). A new hotel—the most artistic in the county. The rush is over. Rooms can now be had and you will be treated well. Boat- s s S . WAMBOLD, Beritia ¥. 0 Lake Gouaty. GILROY HOT SPRINGS A Place Where the Invalid Can Surely Regain Health—Where the Tourist May Regale Himself Upon Magnificent and Plcturesque Scenery, ‘Where the Summer Pilgrim May Find Rest, Kefreshment and Relaxation. A llvecca for the Annual Seeker After Repose and Recuperation. A Rural Retreat, Where the Ad.!nunt Hills are Clothed in Garments of Matchless Glory. Where the Ogre Malaria Never Lifts His Ghastly Head and Where the Waters of Healing Pour Freely From Nature’s Own Fountain. AKE 2:20 P. M. TRAIN FROM FOURTH and Townsend streets, arriving at Springs at 6:80 p. M. Fare $7 15 for round trip. from Third and 8~ Stage connects with train ‘Townsend streets. ROOP & SON, Proprietors. "S31vd 0390034 Board $8 to $10 Per Week. $8—ROUND TRIP TICKET—$§8 ANDERSON SPRINGS. J. ANDERSON, PROPRIETOR, Lake County. MARK WEST SPRINGS, KAR SANTA ROSA—THE MOST BEAUTI- ful spot in Sonoma county: fine fishing and hunting; round trip, $3 75; table first class. Ad- dress FRESE & JURGENSEN. HOWARD SPRINGS, LAKE COUNTY, CAL. OT AND COLD MINERAL SPRINGS OF great healing power. Will cure constipation, aid digestion and purify the blood. Terms $8 per week. Water doctor onthe premises. Write for circular and further information. IVY LODGE, 117 !ogue) Avenue, Santa Cruz, Cal., SELECT PRIVATE BOARDING. i ts ; central; Large grounds, B LAKESIDE HOUSE, LAKE TAHOE. PLEASANT FAMILY RESORT WITH bome comforts; boating and drives. For terms address E. B. SMITH, Bijou, Cal. | THE PIXLEY, Sty Locatedand MRS. E. B. PIXLEY, Prop. Hotaling Building, SANTA CRUZ, CAL. HOTEL DEL MAR.