The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, August 11, 1895, Page 15

, r g PR AR The seasor: of the remnant is now at its length and will continue until our stores have taken stock, and the temptation to purchase odd yards of fabrics of all sorts and kinds is difficult to resist. best-dressed ‘women in San ¥ and she has limited mean ops frequently, when goods reduced, and [ am indebted to her for sev- eral excellent bits of advice about buying, some of which will not be out of place here. For instance, unless you are iooking for short lengths of silk for petticoat ruf- fles, pass over any shorter than the six-yard as they w blouses now dem ng at least that num- ber of yards of silk, even if the sleeves are not exaggerated; of course, if you have | hations a waist may be rics; r instance, one re- the Baldwin had the bodice good ideas of comb made of two fa cently worn at portion of ¢ lavender , striped with white V ace, while the sleeves 1 the shoulders nd lavender taf- r ribbon encircled the ng as was this omen are absolutely should not attempt petticoats can be made of rem- xirt absorbing ten or g bride here has in al petticoat, the top \ees, being of watered shade of blue, a deep flounce, ated, cut into scallops of pale ing upon a deeper flounce, also d, of pale green. The effect of this of colors is delightfully pretty. A ack brocade, with pink roses, ymed with flounces of pink nd a gray brocade, with r it, 1s Frenchy when 1s of blue and green, and i ing wonderfully reasonable nt. e is no reason why many kirts should not figurein the ward- every moderately well-off woman, one sewing neatly can make up d be remembered that ou have e ones pieces of stuff more difficult to use advan- t those of silk, for they only to me morning dressing-gowns or Of all the purchases made at more useiul than odd pieces d embroidery, for even small 1 form yc d I know a three- embroidery ce vide black 3 upon grass lawr, with large grass eves, made a decidedly stylisn Another remnant of creamy batiste em- de w dark: wn linen has been 1 over a brown waist, and the re- narkably good. er of no small surprise to eic., when Harper's er to a correspondent, 0, M “It is too the (fall) fashions of mplest tailor gowns. Nothing is yet like to know if v 27 uld have arrived here. k about colors for and brown will be I Del Monte to be worn the end 1th are occupying many of our rou will ail fancy. ne ground of which with narrow zigzag h look like silver goes a bodice of mauve timmed with ecru lace. auve ribbon encircles the 1 in place by one of the ed silver buckles now so fash- hat of rough gray straw, d with mauve chiffon and shaded 1ids, completes a satisfactory costume. toilette recently worn at a fashion- ble garden party would certainly be very or the “shoot,” and I hope to see »duced here. The skirt was of em- d buff batiste, with a vest of the e, and a short coat of blue silk, made a little tail behind and girdled by A white hat, with pink shing touch of color. ides and their trousseaus are always 3, so an exceedingly pretty vorn by one will interest you. The bodice is of rose satin covered with white lace, worked all over with black and gold froillettes. It opens down the center, showing a narrow line of the pink satin bordered on eitherside witharouleau of black satin and roses at intervals. It is further adorned with jet, and long sashes | extend from the waist. The sleeves are composed of the satin, covered with black lisse. The plain satin skirt is relieved with three little ruffles of the lisse. The effect is excellent. At the garden party given two weeks ago by the Duke and Duchess of Saxe- Coburg Mrs. Mackay was warmly wel- comed by many friends, as her absence has been a long one. On this occasion her gown was of a pink mauve shot silk, so lovely that the leading English papers commented on its charms; but then Mac Irs. vy is noted for the beauly of her ng her stay in London this summer Patti has’ made herseli more un- popular than usuzl, her total lack of man- ners being simply remarkable, and it has further become known that she finds read- ing difficult and writing isa great exertion, her education being decidedly limited in most respects. : All Paris has united in mourning the death of Mme. Miolan Carvalho, who was the greatest French singer of her time, and always be remembpered as Marguer- ite in “Faust,” and as Rosine in the “Bar- ber de Seville.”” She was one of the singers of the old school, one of those who studied the art of producing and placing the voice. Not long ago Mme. Carvalho remarked, in ly 't6 muny questions concerning the city of prima donnas at the present , that ‘“the singers now are carried along n ruggle for life with the rest of buimanity. - Their desire to become rich and famous in an incredibly short time makes them disregard the fact that these great results can only be obtained by years of study.”” 1t ‘would be ridiculous topretend that fine voices have become scarce. One might as well sav that there is a lack of good- | looking girls nowadays. The misfortune is that singers apply for engagements long before completing their studies, and the : quence is that their voices, insuffi- y trained, are not proof against the heavy demands made upon them by the ‘Wagnerian school. They are heard for a year or two and-then coliapse. Melba and Miss Eames are both now in London. Melba is exceedingly annoyed because Miss Eames is to sing at the com- mand opera at Windsor instead of herself. Eames’ gowns are wonderfully beautiful, having ull been designed for her by the artist Story. One of the gowns, described as “quite superb,” is in plainest pink satin, embroidered with silver, with & Charles II overdress® of rich rose-colored brocade, held in at the waist with a belt of deep damask rose velvet, and a large, pic- turesque collar falls over the big slashed One of the | 1 be quite useless, our ( stores are now receiving | sleeves, which are a wonderful combina- | tion of rose brocade, pink satin anc damask | rose velvet. Indeed, it is not an economy | for actresses to dress poorly, and baving | spoken of this reminds me of the very ex- cellent and beautiful gowns worn by the actresses of the Lyceum company while | here. Not one of them looked as though it | had ever been worn before, and San Fran- cisco awdiences appreciated the compli- ment paid their taste. A pretty, brown-haired, blue-eyed wore a very tasteful waist last Mond: | Johnson.”” It was a fawn taffeta silk, through gyhich ran a thread of magenta. | The waist had a yoke of iridescent beads, | shading from brown to a pinkish violet. | From this yoke, fell the slightly bloused front. Tre sleeves were stylish, but not excessively large. The most fashionable of the theater bonnets worn are adorned with roses, most of which were either pink or yellow. | So much thought is now aevoted to the | bicycle that I consider my article quite woman who is a constant theater-goer | evening when she went to see ““Too Much | OV THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, OV N AUGUST 11, 1895. derclothing selected by most brides and the excellent linen ones displaying admir- able stitchery made by hand for our grand- mothers’ trosseau. They did not care whether an ample chemise did add to their waist measurement. All these things are now changed, for we adopt the minimum of underclothing as far as the several arti- cles go, and our garments are made of the thinnest material that it is possible to have, and undergarments now are of much the same cut as our dresses. For instance, a bride has some very lovely chemises cut with short empire waists, bands of lace in- the neck is caught up on the shoulders with ribbons, and were elbow sleeves added and a few inches to the length it would make a fetching little gown. A Paris correspondent states that the newest cut of evening sleeve is a full, large puff, drawn toward the center of the shoulder tip, allowing the arm to be seen. ‘White muslins with black dots over col- ored silk are among tne novelties much songht for by the fashionable. ¥ handsome dark-eyed, brown- haired ins who will probably ‘‘come out” this winter are always dressed in a most becoming and st h manner, so we may expect them to w some delightful confections during the coming season. There are a few genuine Indian muslins in this City, which have peen packed away among old laces and heirlooms for many years. Now they should be brought out, us every sort and kind of Indian embroid- ery is to be much worn this fall, and an sertion keeping in the fullness. The laceat | upper edge. These ti?s may be of patent leather, but are not always so, some fash- jonable tWomen preferring them made of the dull kid of the shoes, ornamented only with a single row of perforations across the straight top. Veils of chiffon or of silk gauze are chosen to wear securely tied around the hat. Black, white and gray are the colors most in demand. The hair should be twined about the head in a neat and com- pact manner, as ocean breezes soon render the woman quite a sight who does up her hair in a loose fluffy, puffy style. However carefully our beauties may veil | themselves many will both burn and freckle, so I will give a recipe of a lotion of home manufacture, said by many fashion- able women to be excellent: “Extract the uice from a large cucumber; you must ane three tablespoonfuls, so use as many cucumbers as may be necessary to obtain the requisite amount of juice. Then strain the juice through a fine cambric handkerchief and add two tablespoonfuls of the best cologne. Put this mixture ina hatf-pint bottle. Then almost fill a four- ounce bottle with elder-flower water, into wirich pour half an ounce of the tincture of benzoin. Let this stand for three hours and then strain into the larger bottle, and if there is any room left fill up with elder- flower water. The mixture must be shaken before being nsed. " An innovation lately introduced across the pond is meeting with much favorable | comment, as it will add greatly to the com- | fort of horsewomen. Itis,namely, that of | | | incomplete unless it includes the latest | news of the wheel, so I shall begin b; | quoting what Mrs. Crawford says in Trut! | on the subject: In Paris they lookon a gown-wearing woman on a cycle as a sprawling, caricature creature, with no of fitness. Cycling modesty lies in fu peded motion and lightning pace. | Mrs. “Crawford holds that the costume should follow the shape of the body as the plumage follows the shape of the bird, and admit of nothing that could catch the wind. Excef)b for park cycling, the only fit material is woolen. I must ad- | mit that some of the Parisian cycling { costumes I have seen are dainty in | the extreme and altogether void of offense | as weli as being thoroughly suitable for the | purpose for which they are designed. ver here, however, it is rare indeed to see | a knickerbocker suit that can be com- | mended on any ground whatever, save that of utility. If rational dress is ever to become popu- Jar it must also be pretty, a fact which the *‘rational” people Lave altogether failed to grasp. They seem to imagine that any cheap, ill-made thing will do, and then wonder why men look so much_better in knickerbockers than they do. Most men are exceedingly particular about the cut of their clothes, I hear that some of our most fashionable bicyclists East will soon appear in cos- tumes of snowy pique, or drln, these being considered ‘‘ultra-chic,” and are worn by both men and women with white stockings, white gloves, white ties and white glazed bats. The tout-ensemble is excellent, so I presume we shall shortly see many such in our park. I like the description of one of these suits, asit is sensible as well as | pretty. Itis of white sailcloth, strapped on the seams and stitched with white silk. | The skirt is livtle longer than a kilt, reach- ing only tothe knee, where it is met by long gaiters of untanned white leather, fastened all along the leg with silver clasps. ‘A man’s shirt under a smart little jacket of the same material as the shirt, and a white glazed sailor hat decorated with a wide gros-grain ribbon, secured by a silver buckle at the side. The knickerbockers fit tightly and are of white doeskin, and the shoes are something quite new, being of white glazed leather, exactly matching the hat. If such toilettes continug to be de- signed for the cyclist the most conservative will give them their consideration, but the skirt should be longer. < What a difference there is nowadays be- tween the dainty, delicate, short-lived un- Indian muslin over a silk slip will make a sweetly pretty gown for a debutante, for even if yellow with age the muslin is beautiful. One clever little woman, in looking at her muslin, found that the foundation Lad gone to pieces, so she has had the embroidery appliqued on the finest muslin. The result is all that can be de- sired, and will be beautiful over a skirt of pale green silk. Now nothing is quite so interesting a topic as the test yacht race for the Amer- ica cup, so naturally yachting gowns are greaflf' discussed, and the collection of fine boats last week in Belvedere Bay fully il- | lustrated the fact that many of our men spend lavishly -on their yachts, and na- turally numbers of our women are in- terested in them and wish ideas about the most chic of yachting costumes. Quite the best known about is of a navy blue serge of the best quality, with a plain, sensible skirt, not at all wide, like the ones now worn for walking. This has a round bodice, belted in with a white kid belt, fastened with a silver buckle of a nautical design. The gigot sleeves are moderate in size, the ornamentation on them being two narrow bands of white kid, pointed at one end and fastened down with white pearl buttons. Two similar straps run horizontally across the bodice about two inches below the collar band. A broad box pleat of the | serge extends down the front, giving a slight French effect. The neck band 1s of white satin ribbon tying in a bow at the back. A blue %flcket linked with heavy white watered silk is admirable in cut and fit. A black Cowes hat with black quill feathers completes the costume. More ornamental and beautiful gowns are numerous, but none of them are quite as satisfactory, unless the wearer is wealthy, as those of dark blue serge or tweed, for other styles are usually very perishable. Some yachtswomen are having straw sailor hats covered with alpaca, white, ecru or nuvi blue. ,The Cowes hats, how- ever, are the most stylish, although the simple straw hats and white yaghting caps are preferred by many. Sac {loven of white or ecru chamois are much liked at gea, being easily drawn on. Heavy dressed kid are occasionally worn. Low russet-colored shoes with stockings to match look well when yachting, but the woman with a large foot clings wisely to the black shoe, and the latest style in the low Oxford have sharply pointed toes with large tips that are cut straight across the ke i i LADY CYCLISTS IN BATTXRSIA PARK. | [From the Illustrated London News, showing that our British cousins are not up to date in wheels and costumes.] white riding habits for summer wear. They are made of plain twill or pique; the skirt is very short and narrow and worn with a man’s ordinary white shirt and a well-fitting jacket, fastening with a single button. The hat worn with this habit is of Tyrolese shape and of white felt, trimmed with an eagle’s snowy plume or a chamois’ beard. We are assured that this costume is delightfully comfortable and, besides, it can be washed as often as necessary. "The knickerbockers worn are of either pique or white doeskin and are met at the knees by white eaiters, which fit snugly on to white lacquered shoes. Speaking of white reminds me of a gown worn by a very stylish girl noted for her excellent taste in dress. It was of white alpaca, the folds of the wide skirt *‘stand- ing out like a half-opened umbrella.” The corsage was made with wide lapels of pale- green silk, covered with an embroidery of pearl and crystal beads and opened over a full blouse front of cream-white lace. The hat worn with this fiown was of white rice straw, trimmed with tufts of green foliage and a few roses. At one time mohair was thought to be an excellent fabric for yachting dresses, but it has proven most unsatisfactory. On the best authority it is stated that there is scarcely a well—np&)inted Louse in Paris, Vienng, or even London, that has not its smoking-room for the use of ladies, and these apartments are fitted up with the most comtortable . and luxurious of Oriental sofas, very wide, and xrovided with excellent springs and covered usually with Egvptian silk or Indian embroidery. I wonder “‘what’s next?"”’ Clam bake clubs are fashionable at New- port, one ‘bake” having been held a few weeks fio most ‘successfully at Eastons Point. The repast began with a remarkably fine chowder, then came the clams, and cbamplgno was served during the repast. ‘We ought to be able to have fashionable and enjoyable ‘‘bakes’ out here, but I have not heard, for .10[!5 time, of such an event that could be c?lle a success, One of the most delighttully novel ideas for a dinner table was carried out last month by a hostess noted for her wonder- ful dinners. In place of a table-cloth the beautiful oblong table of polished wood was covered with rose leaves, ana the gold, silver, china and crystal were all genuinely antique. The decorations were in perfeet taste, and the table was also so arranged as to allow “the slender stems and feathery verdure of tall fern plants to pass and form a bower over the heads of the guests.” The decorations of the rest of the rooms was most appropriate, consist- ing of many plants and great garlands of roses. East the new blue and white Trenton ware has been warmly received, there be- ing %xite a rage for blue and white rooms, and blue and white sets of china. This artistic production comes in odd, quaint and beautiful shapes and designs. Some of it has found its way out here, and I quite lost my heart to a tall, artisti- cally shaped vase with a most picturesque little shepherdesson it. This ware isabout the same price as rookwood, and is an American production of which we have reason to ge proud. The productions of our potteries and porcelain factories have been causing much wonder and commen- dation in Europe. Hundreds of women are now employed to originate tasteful and lovely designs for this home industry. Large, round toques are in high favor. One from Paris which has been admired is trimmed with a large red rose on either side, mingled with small white lilies, and large. upstanding, fan-shaped aigrettes of white lace complete it. White veiling with small black dots is much worn by many of our belles. One of our fashion-leaders, who is tall and stately, lately wore in London, at the Coburg garden party, a zown which abounds in valuable sug%estiom for man; women. The skirt was of black satin, full, plain and gored, lined with alarge checked black and white silk, over which ran a little design in pale gink flowers. The exquisitely fitted bodice was entirely veiled in black tulie, closely pleated, but under a deep yoke collar of cut jet. The sleeves were of the big check flowered silk, large and graceful, and turned back at the wrist with a full pleated gauntlet cuff. Around the well-rounded waist was a §ir- dle and fringed basque of jet, which fell artistically almost to the bottom of the skirt, finished with deep points back and front, and forming a network of brilliant rays. The bonnet worn with this costume was of jet, trimmed with ospreys and shaded orchids. The new fashion for women to load themselves with jewelry during the day- time is not meeting with approval in the set, it being such horrid bad taste. For instance, in “*An Ideal Husband,” Mabel Chiltern was much criticized for wearing necklaces, pins and rings galore with her morning dress, which as a dress wascharm- ing, but absurd for that bour, being em- broidered with glittering sequins. Buckles, clasps, pendants, earrings, even collars of pearls and diamonds are worn by some while the sun still is shining, and the effect is far from good, especially when young married women and even girls so adorn themselves. Emeralds are quite the rage at present, and tbe much-loved Empress Elizabeth has the greatest fondness for them and possesses the most marvelous set in the world. Her love for these gems is so well known that twenty years ago, when the Shah of Persia visited Vienna, he pre- sented her with a watch made of a single emerald of perfect color and shape, which depended from a chatelain of diamonds and emeralds of fabulous value. Apropos of watches, one of our most cele- brated jewelers hasat last designed a watch which can anropriately be fastened to the shoulder or hip of a ball dress. Tt looks like a large daisy of diamonds, ‘‘the center of which, exquisitely honeycombed, is of dull gold, and represents the heart of the tlower. This center opens upon the pres- sure of a tiny spring and discloses a per- fect little timepiece.” Many other flowers will be_used, and_for those not able to ai- fora diamond daisies there are to be had flowers with enameled petals, and here and there a diamond dewdrop. The Iiatest news from Paris is cheering, for we are informed that all absurd exag- gerations of dress have vanished and that owns are becoming more and more taste- ul and thoroughly artistic, so we may ex- pect unusually beautiful costumes this winter. Almost by the same mail we hear that Mrs. Curzon (formerly Miss Leiter of Chi- cago) is acquiring a greater popularity even than her husband, and is credited with having won hislast political battle for him. Lady Naylor-Leyland (formerly Miss Jennie Chamberlin of Cleveland) and Mrs. Evans, who was Miss Marie de Grasse Stevens, an American, both took prominent arts in the late elections, greatly assisting heir husbands. So, aiter all, our women are not married merely because they have skin-deep beauty, nor because of papa’s ducats, The rage for Malmaison carnations con- tinues, and the growing plants as well as the cut blossoms figure at almost every fashionable function. Some novel hatpins lately shown con- sist of large pearls set in little baskets of diamonds. Ordinary crepons have become very com- mon owing to the large clearance sales of them during this season. However, the fine silky ones hold their own, and are seen used as skirts for many beautiful cos- tumes. Especially is the creamy white in demand at present for entire gowns. One beantiful with its full rose silk lined skirt bedice of the crepon, with a cascade of lace in fropt, divided by lace insertions, under which showed rose silk linings and pink chiffon sleeves. This creation wonlg be charming for a bridesmaid’s dress. I want to caution tue owners of valuable laces against attempting to mend it them- selves. Such intricate and delicate work should be confided to a specialist, as stitches cannot be ‘‘ripped’’ out without ruining the cobwebby fabric. MARCELLA. —_— / 2 FOR MEN. Among the most exclusive set in Europe the men no longer offer their arm to ladies when passing from the dining-room into the drawing-room, or vice versa, but, as used $6 be the custom in bygone years, they extend their hands to their fair part- ners and lightly grasping the tips of the latters’ gloved fingers they thus lead them to and from their places at the dinner- table. This new custam goes well with the beautiful costumes and head-dresses of the hour. Iam indebted to Vogue for this information. Cuff links in gold and enamel, costing $50 a set, known as _‘“‘ruination links,” are very fashionable. One pair has a- ballet- girl and a bottle of champagne enameled beautifully in colors, the other a hand of cards and a herse racing. The mildest, most proper young men take kindly to these links. Very popular also are cricketing subjects, likewise in gold and enamel for adorning our cuffs. Scarfpins are shown in many new de- signs, but those most in demand during the summer are golf and polo ones. -Thisis the season when many of us have invitations to pass Saturday and Sunday with friends in the country, and just what to take in the way of apparel is a vexing question frequently, no one wish- ing to take unnecessary clothing. To be- gin with the invited guest will reach his destination in a light-weight summer sait with a sack coat, which will be most use- ful if dark-blue in color, as it can then be worn with his white duck trousers. With this suit his hat will be of straw, his shoes tan and his shirt can be colored with a white standing collar; a madras tie, which will, of course, be tied in a bow, the four-in-hand not being fashionable this season. ‘The colored shirts are uausually attract- ive at present, and are shown in lavender, blue and pink shades with hair-line um%e: of white. The traveler will also take, be- sides his duck trousers, in his dressing-suit case, two negligee shirts, which nowadays are made with stiff cotlar and cuffs, the old-fashioned flannel and silk negligee shirts never being worn except when out hunting or fishing. Those now seen are made out of various materials, but are usually pink or blue in color, with a fine line, and on the collar and cuffs the stripes must run up and down; but this remark is scarcely necessary, as to look well such shirts must be made to order by a man, for they should fit snugly but not too tightly around the neck. Madras ties are worn with these shirts. Country residents frequently do not dress for dinner and mlucimen appear in their sack coats and duck trousers at country dances. However it is not safe to leave home without one’s tails, as evening dress may be expected, so do not leave it out. , Shoes take up s lot of room but a pair of tent leathers must goand if tennis is to be indulged in that means the regulation ten- R the. case has be 1y packed e case has been properl there will still be ample room fi;’i‘fnm. plete change of underwear, socks, handker- chiefs, coilars, cuffs, brushes, combs and razor. Besides a little soft cap which will be convenient,.I have found my case when so stocked to contain everything necessary for a brief stay. . At a noon wedding the bridegroom must wear a black vicuna frock coat and waist- coat, an Ascot four-in-hand white silk tie, and gloves of pearl gray kid with black stitching. C..C. Fashions Behind the Footlights. To see Mrs, Patrick Campbell as Fedora is an all-sufficient attraction at the Hay- market just now. At the same time it is impossible for any woman not to take an additional pleasure in the wonderfully sumptuous gowns that are exhibited in this piece, although she may go home sighing that she was not born a Mrs. Pat- rick Campbell and a Russian Princess. In the great scene of the first act—the scene, you remember, where the lover, Vladimir, is dying in a-room at the back of the stage—Fedora_wears 4 marvelous mantle of cloth of silver, which is lined with frills as soft as down of rainbow- colored gauze, says Fedora in the Queen. A great hood of heliotrope and amber gauze, wired at the edge, can be drawn over the face like an aureole, or thrown back at pleasure. Of course, Russian sable trims this exquisite garment, and what gives an extremely artistic finish is a couple of flut- tering scarfs of black gauze that fasten the cloak at the neck. But the mantle does not outshine the dress it covers, a beautiful evening gown of white satin bro- caded with a design of lilies of the valley and with chains of diamondsto serve for sieeves. The dress worn for the evening reception is more splendid, perhaps a trifle too splen- did. Itis made of a very rich deep yellow brocade, the design upon which suggests crepe folds. Down one side falls a thick rope of roses—damask and pink and white, nestling in their leaves—while quantities of jeweled passementerie and gold- sequined lace are disposed upon the low b‘gdice. and as further trimmings to the skirt. short sleeve and makes a bracelet just above the elbow where the long glove ter- minates. Inthe hair are set great dia- mond ornaments, a diamond butterfly rests its flashing wings llé)on the bodice, and innumerable jeweled chains are sus- pended around the throat. To this costume the lovely evening negligee of the third act affords a soft con- trast. Itis a long empire gown, rather Bernhardtesque in style, of white crepe over pink satin. Upon the crepe Russian eagles and flowers are worked in bullion thread. The bust is encircled with a broad band of gold galon encrusted with rubies and emeralds, and a girdle in the same style is fastened loosely about the figure. This is one of the most beautiful garments Mrs. Campbell has ever worn; which,it will be acknowledged, is the high- est praise. The fourth, or death-scene dress, is very simple and graceful. Itis made wholly of creamy lace, draped over a own of ivory esatin, with the aid ofa jeweled girdle.” A Greek cross of gold and uncut emeralds is worn as a necklet, and serves in the end a tragic purpose. Mrs. Bancroft, as the engaging Countess Olga, dresses with her unfailing good taste. Her reception gown in the second act is of emerald-green velvet, cut Princess fashion, and trimmed both upon the bodice and train with the finest Brussels lace—real Brussels it goes without saying. The dress opens over a front of white satin, over which gold paillettes and coral beads are profusely scattered. Mrs. Bancroft's ornaments are chains of diamonds and earls (likewise real), and the delightful Jountess Olga assists her flirtation with the faithless Boleslas by means of a genuine Empire fan. But. Mrs. Bancroft plays her principal scene in an afternoon costume of black satin brocade, the bodice of which has a deep lace collar, and boasts also a smart little vest of old-rose velvet, adjusted with diamond buttons. An ex- tremely dressy hat crowned with red roses and ostrich plumes, and furnished with a plisse of black chiffon to shade the brim, completes the becoming attire. Furthermore to be noticed are two pretty evening dresses, worn respectively by Miss Hilda Hanbury and Miss Routh. 'The former is of petunia satin made witha pouch front, and displaying thereon three diamond studs. The shoulders are covered with a bertha of fine gnipure. Miss Routh is apparelled in a skirt of old-green satin that harmonizes well with a draped bodice of rose-flowered Chine on a white ground. The sleeves consist of a flounce of coffee lace over green satin. Dress is well under- stood at the Haymarket. MME. M. YALE’S Beauty Secrets. Mme. Yale’s Hair Tonic sto];: hair falling in from 24 hours to one week., It is the only discovery known to the medical fraternity to bring back the natural color to gray or faded hair—it makes the hair grow more rapidly than anything else possibly can. Price $1.00 per bottle, 6 for §5.00. Mme. Yale’s Face Powder, Three tints, 50c. Mme. Yale’s Beauty Soap, 25c. Mme. M. Yale’s Complexion Bleach Removes ail blemishes from the skin, leaving it clear pink and white; price $2.00 per bottle. Mme. M. Yale’s Skin Food Removes wrinkles and the traces of age—makes the face full and plump; price $1.50. Mme. Yale’s Complexion Cream Softens the skin and makes it fine grained; it ‘will keep a good skin good and improve & bad one. A delicious toilet article. Price $1.00 a jar. Mme. Yale’s La Freckia Is the only sure cure for Freckles. Price $1.00. Mme. Yale may be consulted by mail free of charge. Mme. Yale’s Bust Food For developing the bust and making the neck plump. gfw‘ 2 . Mme. Yale’s Guide to Beauty. A valuable book of instructions on ‘Cultl- vating Beauty,” written by Mme. Yale, con- tains seven gictuns of the famous beauty. gu}éx mailed FREE TO ALL who will write 3 Mme. Yale’s Remedies can be had of Drug- gists or sent for by mail to Mme. Yale. TEMPLE OF BEAUTY, CHICAGO. ¢ Wl ol e e i SO The most certain snd safe Pain Remedy. In cures Summer Compiaints, Diarrhcea, Hears. burn, Seur Stomach, Flatulence, Colic, Nausea. A film of black tulle drapeseach | WE HAVE The Largest Retall Glove Department In San Francisco, : : A1 Our Gloves Fitted . To the Hand and & Perfect Fit Guaranteed. We Are Now Showing a Complete NEW ASSORTMENT QOur Well-Known Brands of High- Grade Kid and Suede And In Addition Are Offering LADIES' 4-BUTTON 'REAL KID GLO VES, with Jarge Pearl Buttons, in 0 . PAIR Slates and Blacks, at.... REGULAR VALUE, $1.35. LADIES DOGSKIN GAUNT- suitable for bicyele rid- ing and driving, in Tans X PAIR and Browns, 8t.......... LADIES’ 2-CLASP MOCHA or CASTOR GLOVES, especially adaptei for and streetewear, in Tans . PATR and Browns,at.’........ b One of the Best Values Ever Offored. LADIEY L BUTTON “FON- ¥ LISH WALKING GLOVES, with large but- tons, in Tans, Modes, Browns, Reds, Navy Pearl, White and Blac 1, 50 PAIR at.. Comment on the Value, Fit and Wear of this Glove is unnecessa ‘hey are well known. This Week Tans, Modes, Browns, LETS, with large cuffs, REGULAR VALUE, $1.50. bicycle riding, driving TAINE” PIQUE Blue, Darlk Green, Slates, I 3K T R A-This Week We Oftfer a Special Purchase of NECKTIES! In Four-in-Hanas, Tecks and Bows. Latest Patterns in Dark, Medium and Light Shades at 25C macm= REGULAR 50c GOODS. NEWMAN & LEVINSON, 125, 127, 129 and 131 Kearny Street, and 209 Sutter Street. LADIES! We Call Your Special Attention to the Wonderfully LOWPRICES WE ARE SELLING Fancy Belts, Shirt Waist Sefs, Belt Pins and Back Combs. NEW 600DS! LATEST STILES! Silver-plated Belt Pin: = ;loo 25° 25° . 50° Silk Belts, with hand-engraved silver- 2"0 plated buckles... ) 20 different styles of Silk Belts, with extra £,()0 heavy buckles. All-silk Belts, sterling silver belt buckles... 950 25° 10° 200 Sterling Silver Belt Pins. Siiver-plated Ladies’ Shirt Waist Sets, com= plete, studs, cuff and collar buttons. . Sterling Silver Shirt Waist Sets complet TImitation Shell-back Combs, fancy design.. SPECIAL. / JUST RECEIVED—100 more of those re- liable, wood-enameled, 8-day, strike hour 'and half-hour, Cathedral Gong 1x15 inches, clnuing$6.'lu Mail Orders Receive Prompt Attention. Electrlc Construction and Repairing of All Kinds. Estimates Given. NOTE.—Special attention paid to 2 Grinding Razors, Shears and Edged Tools by skilled mechanics. Prices moderate. 818-820 Market Street Phelan Building. Factory—30 First Street. WHALEBONE. PACIFIC STEAM WHALING COMPANY'S Gennine Shell Whalehone *“Orca Brand.” Prepared and Selected for the DRESK 600DS AND. CORSET TRADE. All Sizes. Every Package Guaranteed. One trial will convince you of its merits and superiority over all other brarlds in the market. E#}DIE o LT, S NOSEEQUAL T0 OUR “ORCA BRAND.” ul::;:rh:?:n' most elastic, lasts longest, cheap~ For sale by all the leading dry-goods houses Offico and Futerg, 30 California Street, SAN FR. ANCISCO.