The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, July 21, 1895, Page 15

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, JULY 21, 1895. 15 d There is & woman in this City—perhaps | there are a score, but I only know of one— who, when attired in a gown which feels suits her and is of the latest style, is } condescending in her manner, if you are | similarly garbed, butif you are not she is | positively aggressive. However, if things | are reversed she is not un sant to meet, A pity, is it not, that she never really understood, if she has ever heard of, the | story about piggy’'s ear, 0 rwise she | wonld not, as the boys say, ‘‘give herself away,” for it is correctly supposed that when one places such dependence on cloth- | ing they have but little else in their fayor, and then comes the arrassing question, | “Who is she, any 1 admit that well and suit feeling of pl one of pleasnrabl ments be de | ciousness of being | conducive toa | which deepens into | e content when our gar-| ribed as beautiful and ghthere y such a | “Vanities,” of them, but | v because I have | seriously on this | you would probably | aving heard so 1stead I shall be Certain You Will Read and Criticize. One of ¢ y Californians, who has from Europe, after an ab- lately returr £ v dainty toilettes y complexion. aris is of a yellowish silk. immensely full, with no ng. The front is slightly aces of st oused and across it is draped some rare, amy Irish point lace, which is caught with t s so cunningly devised hali-opened Marechal | Each sleeve also has one of estling among the ample eight inches from the shoul- 1 the wrists are small ffs of the lace. A bias fold | ged with many wrinkles, | -rounded waist. dainty woman has nota | gowns, covered with | >, which I so love. It is hard | r she is prettiest in mus- | ffon, or mousseline de soie. | ut never has there been | hen ribbons were so uni- | and in consequence, every | 1 deser1ption of ribbon can this fashion is a most | as we can refresh our | judicious use, and | st summer which were | tin ribbon and belt, | e of white lace, are | cuous this season, for | longer new. To make them | e the black satin by a draped | and row belt of green and blue | leon taffeta ribbon. A large aigreite v or one with broad loops completes both belt and collar, and in place of the white collar a shallow yoke is added in front of black net wrought with iridescent | green and blue spangles, and a very | effective bow of the bright ribbon is| placed on each siae of the bust, close to | oles. The cuifs are of the ribbon | a draped appearance. i These chameleon taifeta ribbons are the | importations for dress trimming and | ery, and are from four to six inches | empire sashes have been, and are great favorites with our pretty girls, and go well with the profusion of light | gowns seen everywhere, and it should be | recorded that ungainly figures can be im- proved, short w. made longer and ab- waily long waists shorter by bands and | ort-waisted woman a broad | 3 ash ribbon, is most | ble, but with a narrow.belt and | bbon put in from belt to shoul- | 7 on the shoulders in a bow | d long line effect gained. | ed women should delight in the lows them to wrap yards n around their waists, have the advantage over sted sisters. nts, becoming to slender e stout alike, are in many Iness being gathered on stead of below the throat ed across the bust to fasten 1de under the belt. e waist is worn here by a pretty ron of black mousseline de soie, taffeta, and is' beautified with ellow Valenciennes lace. The are voluminous, with horizontal in- of the lace. The collar is a ruche creamy lace. With this is worn a plain skirt of black silk. The toilette is excellent, and I almost forgot toadd that at the back | of her neck she wears, with this gown, a bow of black satin, consisting of four or six loops, some of them extending out at the sides, and this is oneof the latest things which have reached us from Europe, and we are informed that in exaggerated cases the bow is setso high thatit appears to spring from the neck itself under the low coiffure, for the coming fashion is to dress the hair very low in the neck. Long cloaks cut a la domino for evening carriage wraps are very stylish; the fronts can be_ left oven or crossed over and fastened. The armholes are immense and the sleeves form very large puffs. These cloaks are to be the favorites of fashion, say our best modistes. I am glad of it, as they are easily slipped on and off. Such cloaks will, Jater in the season, be made up in lightweight cloths for evening trips across-the bay, etc. Most of us have seen the stylish matron, who dresses in the extreme of fashion, in a white alpaca skirt as early as April. 1 heard and_announced that such skirts, with Louis XVI coats of shot silk, would be one of the things for spring and sum- mer wear, and such has been the case, the swellest women having regarded the com- binations with much favor. And now we are to have a novel jacket called the Robespierre, which is cut with the short waist, and with it is worn the deep sash of that particular period, accompanied by a h she | & vest of dotted Swiss and frills, or a calling costume of light color, trimmed with vel- vet just the shade of greén to make her ves a trifle darker, and relieved witha little old lace here and there. However, I think she is at her best when in evening toilet, for her arms and neck are so well | molded that I advise the girls who have made four or five debuts to look to their laurels and make the most of this summer’s flirtations. An aristocratic blonde is now at Mon- terey, who looks exceedingly well in a pale blue crepon. It enhances her fair beauty. T believe every one is more or less weary hearing discussions about _bicycle cos- tumes, but I cannot resist describing one lately shown in Altman’s window in New York. Of course it was for an actress, as a | bicycle is a necessary part of variety per- formances nowadays. This particular | model was on a dummy figure mounted on a bicycle. The moderately full bloomers were of black satin, the shoes of patent leather. Now this sounds quite ordinary, but let me conclude: The coat was of crim- son satin with large buttons and moder- ately long tails, the waistcoat of black satin with buttons matching those on the coat, but of a smaller size. Above the waistcoat was a very cute little shirt of white muslin with frills, and a stock of muslin. On the head of Mme. Dummy | was perched a jaunty red hat which had a band of black ribbon around it. The gloves were of black kid broadly stitched with red. Quite a gay costume, was it not, but effective, for the stage? In Paris so great is the rage for the wheel that some one remarked that Paris- 1ans went to balls, marriages and even | funerals on their wheels, and I hear that the costumes worn_there are the greatest conceivable absurdities. However, why do we not have a swell bicycle club here? I have just heard of a grand reception, etc., given in Louisville by the crack club there, which was a notable success, invita- tions being widely sought for. Now, here we have so much time when such exercise can be enjoyed that I am at a Joss to un- derstand why some of our best set do not organize a club at once. I hear from New York that a Mr. Van Allen contemplates giving a bicycle party | by moonlight with Japanese lantern at- tachments. Of course, a supper will fol- low. I consider this a bright idea, worthy of imitation. The event at Ludbrook Park on July 4 was a novel tournament, in which the men were attired in costumes of bygone days and mounted on bicycles. They rode in the tournament, under arches and took rings, after which a Queen and her maids of honor were crowned. The late Ward McAllister used to give an annual picnicat Newport, and it was con- sidered a picnic of picnics to which each guest contributed some triumph of his or her chef’s art, to be eaten al fresco. The beautiful toilets worn on such occasions made it quite like a fete champetre at the Trianon when beautiful Marie Antionette laid aside her queenly state and laughed like an ordinary happy young woman, What an idea for some of the owners of lovely country places. They could make a success of such a fete now that costumes of that period are de riguenr. I wonder what Oakland's broad-minded, enerous leader thinks about the latest London sensation. Itisanart gallery which has been opened upon a new plan. The | proprietor is a woman, and she wishes to sell pictures, so she gives afternoon teas at which are present the artists whose ictures are for sale, and of course, they being lions, attract the public, and all London swarms to these functions, the artists smile, tea flows, and I understand that the pictures sell with marvelous rapidity. I wonderif such a tea would “go” here. I fear there are not enough lions to smile or roar around. The subject of table decoration is fre- quently under discussion, and nowadays sweet peas are great favorites, as they are to be had in every possible shade, and a great thing in their favor is their delicate, pure scent, some hostesses making great mistakes in having flowers with heavy per- fumes. Lately a novel design for a lunch table proved a success. The table was cov- ered with pale-green silk. and in the center was a little pond surrounded with soft green moss and ferns. In the pond were ever so many little green frogs, and as a souvenir each guest had a tiny green frog, with her name on his back, placed by her napkin. Theidearequireselaboration, but, as unique effects are desired, this one may be so classified. Fans are appropriate sub- jects at this season, and one of the latest haye a design adapted trom some famous painting by 8ir Joshua Reynolds, such as “The Ladies Waldegrave,” and the mate- rial for such a fan is chicken skin, artists declaring it to be ‘an admirable medium for showing the delicate painting. Irish lace is now the rage, and on the occasion of her wedding the Princess Helene received from the Lord-Lientenant of Ireland as his gift a most beautiful fan, mounted on light tortoise shell sticks of this fabric. That reminds me. I cannot forbear re- marking on the excellent taste of the young bride in having her bridal gown, which was of pure white satin, made with the utmost simplicity, as nothing could have better suited her tall graceial figure. The bodice was high to the neck and with long sleeves, had a deep folded belt of the satin and a collar en suite, fastened in front with a small spray of orange flowers and myrtle. A ruche of these outlined the skirt and train, the latter being very long and square in form. The Princess did not wear a single jewel. Her beautiful golden hair was a suitable frame for her fair face. long cravat of Mechlin lace, and fastened with bronze buttons. Thisis tremendously smart, and I wonder who will have the first one here. I understand several are ordered. 1 who saw the beautiful, stately girl recently at San Rafael, with eyes like brown veivet, will remember how charm- was her white Leghorn hat, trimmed Dresden ribbons and great crush roses, while smaller ones nestled underthe brim against her dusky hair. Many married women here, although 7, find that the bodices that end st are not at all becoming to ell-developed hips. A basque cut to have sufficient fullness to flare around the hips overcomes the difficulty, and aresses made entirely of one material are certzinly more appropriate than the bodices differing from tEe skirts. _Many do not know that the new shot linens will dry clean over and over again and look perfectly new and fresh after each visit to the cleaner’s. They are ex- fremely pretty and we have a large variety to select from. Next winter a real genuine blonde will make her debut, having recently gradu- ated from the private school on Butter street. She will be a success from the be- ginning, combining besu?’ with a bright, happy disposition. Besides, I have never seen her in an ugly gown: on the contrary, she thoroughly understands what suits her, and gu:de(?’b a mother whose taste is known to be excellent, every dress is a suc- cess, whether a sunple duck, with its little ing novelties for very expensive ones is to | e e ‘\\,—/‘f"// “ ‘;‘/ = | IR % Her veil is of the finest Chantilly lace, which was especially woven by the women of Bayeaux, at the right hand corner of which are represented the fleur de lys of France and the cross of S8avoy beaded with the crown. All lovers of lace have mani- fested interest in .this real work of art. The Maizon Worth must feel quite slighted, as not only did the Princess order her wedding dress from the Maison Fromert, but several others also. I have mentioned the long cloaks which will be greatly in vogue, so a description of one of the most beautiful lately ordered will be of interest, as it_also figured in the Princess’ trousseau. It is cut after the long princess redingote style, with full sleeves, medieval cuffsand wing epaulettes. Itis of rich white velvet, antf lined with duchess satin—Medici collar with stole ends in sable fur. The formation of the societies of Colonial Dames of America, and the Daughters of Cincinnati, has given quite an impetus to the engravers’ Eusmess,as crests and coats of arms now adorn not |, only the family silver, as in aays gone by, but also large quantities of letter paper are being stamped with heraldic devices. The fashion reached here some time ago, and as aresult nota few of our blue-blooded dames use their seals and point with ,;ride to pieces of silver that came from England more than 200 years ago. The most comfortable way to dress, as far as underwear is concerned, is_to have | union suits of silk; besides it is more healthy than any other;so at least most physicians declare, and stout women tind them indispensable, as they do away with bands and do not wrinkle uncomfortably around the waist. It has been a matter of no smal! surprise to me_to see how readily some women will spend on outside cloth- ing, and how they grudge money for ex- pensive underwear, although I do not admit that silk union suits come under the head of extravagances, as I consider that they save many a doctor’s bill. Wool and silk, or wool and lisle thread, are also ex- cellent. Lately one of our hostesses here, who is always striving after original and artistic effects for her table, decided to give a din- ner to some Eastern friends and use only California poppies for decoration. At 4 o’clock the table was a harmonious dream, but when at 6:30 madam tripped in to ive a last glance at everything, what was Ber consternation at finding her poppies looking like little yellow sticks, as they had all rolled up, or, as the children say, ‘‘gone to sleep.” e At present but few bonnets are being worn, even our middle-aged matrons show an inclination to wear the large hat over which many ostrich feathers nod. One of the latest hats I have seen is a black chip, with eight black feathers on the crown, while on the back are rosettes of black and white silk-edgzed chiffon. The silk-edged chiffon in colors, as well as in black and white, is being used on many hats. Ro- settes of shot silk are also popular, the silk being first accordion-pleated, then gath- ered up into choux. White veils are far from becoming to some complexions, and although they look cool are just as warm as black ones, and it has at last been decided that the veil which has a white mesh and a black spot upon it is worthy of the best attention, for while it gives the air of coolness, it by no means exercises a bad influence upon- the com- plexion. To my mind the Teal lace veils have nothing to recommend them, bein hideously unbecoming, and the best of al among white veilings is one of Russian net, with a delightfully soft texture and a very fine design. I'have just heard a little secret about how to make white veils more becoming, so here it is: Line such veils with very diaphanous pink gauze, being careful to choose flesh and not a bluish or mauvish pink, and you will have the appearance of possessing, if you own it not already, a de- lightfully youthful complexion. How fre- quently I speak of well hung or perfectly hung skirts, but how seldom do we see, comparatively speaking, just such skirts. We]fi if you want to see a number of skirts which merit these adjectives go to the Baldwin during this week and you will see them, if you have not already. Iam in- formed positively that the gowns worn in the ‘‘Amazons” are quite as excellent as those to be seen in ‘“Rebellious Susan.” Isabel Irving understands her own style and coloring perfectly, for not once as Susan did she wear an unbecoming gown, in fact one and all were so charming that I will cescribe a few for the benefit of those who are out of town. In the first scene her skirt was of a soft grayish shade, absolutely plain, without a particle of ap- parent stiffness. The bodice was trimmed with an odd pinkish salmon silk covered with cut jet, which_made a chic bloused | | effect, and” her odd Frenchy collar of lace cut in deep points had the cutest sable tails at the ends. In the next act she wears a light silk skirt, such as we should all possess, as it is just the proper tint to harmonize with the mousseline de soie and silk waist so greatl in vogue. With it she combined the dainti- est of waists of the new shade of cerise pink, over which was fulled lace with a small figure, while velvet of the cerise shade encircled her waist and tied in just the right place in a sprightly bow. er sleeves were to the elbow. On her next apgennmoe I wish you all could have seen the gown; the skirt of rich, fawn-colored silk, the bodice had beautiful sleeves of a new bluish green velvet, while the slightly bloused front of velvet was adorned with perlectlfilovaly cut jewels of a bluish green tone, Her dinner dress was very fetching with its brocaded skirt and delicious waist, with just the right touch of pink. The little choux nestling at the armholes are like those which I have de- scribed. In the first act her cape of black lace, with the points of Irish lace jeweled, was awfully stylish, and the long cloak of brocaded rose-pink satin and the large ermine collar made every one of us almost feel the gan s of envy, Madame would have held up her hands and mur- mured, “It is a gem’’; and it is just one of the most lovely cloaks seen here for some AT THE SEASHORE. [Beproduced from an engraving in Life.) considerable space of time—and, oh, I want a dear little black lace fan and a ~vhite one, such as she has. Her hat and the toque were good. The young widow dressed well, but was at her handsomest in the exquisite dark shade of cerise. The cape and hat worn with this tcilette were artistic in the high- est degree; and oh, the sleeves! They were dreams—immense. But you never think of them as such. They aresimply in keep- ing with the ‘‘tout.” She is so_ fetching when arrayed for dinner that one feels cer- tain Sir Richard Kalo will again urge her to take charge of his household gods, Lady Darby, Susan’s aunt, 18 most suit- ably and appropriately garbed on every occasion, whether in her excellent calling costume of rich plum velvet, with its fash- ionable redingote and its skirt edged with ostrich plumes, or in the biscuit-colored toilette, which is slashed with satin of a lighter tone. I prefer the very handsome dinner gown ot rich g_rag brocade and chiffon. Her bonnets suit her perfectly. Elaine Shrimpton, who has “a message to deliver,” has stylish gowns. I have not decided quite which I like best. Taken as a whole the Lyceum Theater company would be well worth going to see if only on account of the gowns, but the acting is excellent as well. Mr. Frawley is to be congratulated on having such a talented company, the members of which have shown to great advantage in *‘One of Our Girls.” Helen Dauvray deserves great praise. Her per- sonation is finished, and in the second act her rippling, happy laughter is charming, for not one out of fifty women could laug as she does, so perfectly naturally, neta trace of affectation, and her gowns are good, but the one she first wears is nota becoming shade. The pink satin em- broidered with gold sequins is handsome and suits her to perfection, and the beauti- | fully embreidered fur-edged cape, trimmed with rose-pink satin, is pretty. Julie wears when we first see her one of the | sweetest little white frocks to be found anywhere, and ner evening gown of pale | blue shows a pair of lovely shoulders and is exceedingly becoming. Mme. Fon- blanque, accept my compliments. Your toilets are so picturesque, so absolutely correct, that I am delighted with them, but you are undoubtedly handsomest in your exquisitely embroidered gown worn in the second act when so horribly shocked by ‘““An International Kiss.” Speaking of theaters reminds me that to most quickly reach our vrincipal ones I have to depend on the Devisadero-street electric-car, which always starts before | allowing one to be seated. This is, to say the least, a slight inconvenience, so I in- quired the other day of one of the con- ductors the reason of this, and he replied that they were not allowed time enough to wait until the people were seated. I have seen several slip and narrowly escape being hurt lately and some day some one is gQinE to be seriously injured if this is not looked into, and then the owners of the road will realize that it would have been more profitable to have run a few extra cars. To conclude, those who are so soon to be brides will be interested in knowing that fashion has decreed that her flowers are to be arranged in a singularly pretty sheaf called “la gerbe Trianon.” TKe blossoms must be long stemmed and disposed in such a way that the flowers hang separately without any crush, like a perfumed cas- cade, and another novelty is to have the sheaf tied with pink velvet ribbon stream- ers, on the end of which have your future monogram or crest in rubies or diamonds. One bride has just carried such a bouquet, and it created a sensation. It is a delight- ful idea. MARCELLA. — s TASHIONS FOR MEN. Not very long ago I was considerably amused at hearing a certain young man announce that all_his clothes came from Poole, and his air and manner indicated that we should be duly imrressed. but his clothes—well, no one would want an Eng- lish outfit if his are correct over there. How- ever, perhaps his garments did come from Poole, for the great original and “‘only” Poole has been dead a considerable time and the establishment has gone to pieces, | none of tae swagger set ever going there now, as there are half a score of tailors far more fashionable; so, my young friend. when you cross the pond next time patron- ize some one else if you want to appear to have any shape or style to you. The principal fault of the New York tailor is his intense love of padding, and only quite lately has he begun to discard much of it, and the admission is generally made, even by Britishers, that our best tailors finish clothes better than theirs do— and they certainly should when the im- mense difference_in price is considered. But, again, the English tailor carefully studies the figures of his patrons, while ours are frequently careless. For instance, a rotund figure is not improved when attired in a rough coat, and a short man in a long-skirted coat cuts an absurd figure, .although many of them are evidently not aware of this fact. I have heard the remark that London clothes are all loose and baggy,and have huge checks. To be sure, many garments come to this country that are correctly so described, but where did they come from ? I mean who made them? Everytning de- ends on this. Many Americans return From the English capital with hideous garments because they went.to the wrong man. We scarcely ever see in our streets the patent-leather buttoned bouts so. generally worn in Piccadilly and in New York, The; {zok well, but wring sensitive feet terri- y. Speaking about London at this season of the year makes me think of the Thames, and that reminds me of a fashion, in vogue some ten years ago, of wearing, when boat- ing, white shirts, high collars, black and satin ties. Now this style has lately been revived in this country; indeed, it was only afew days ago, while visiting Belve- dere, that I saw one of our rising young electrical engineers so attired, and he looked very fit indeed. He is one of the numerous sons of a prominent banker and capitalist. who resides on First street in San Jose. g Our clothes this ‘season are all, as far as styles and colors are concerned, very con- servative, as a natural result after the many attempts to introduce outre dress. Iused to shudder when reading articles which positively informed us that we must at once decide as to whether we preferred pink, green, blue or red cloth, or velvet swallow-tails. Now, thank heavens, that danger has been averted, and we are not even to be forced into knee breeches, al- though T never regarded them with horror, as I would not have had to order a bale of padding. Men who desire to have appro- priate clothes for every occasion which may arise should always have a complete suit of semi-mourning, as funerals are among our small obligations, and stress is laid on our attendance. Speaking of our linen it is a matter of surprise to me that men who spend lav- ishly in other directions will wear revers- ible” cuffs. Such fearfully bad style, you know. Kast even a bank clerk would hesi- tate to'do such a thing, and in Europe such cuffs are almost unknown. It an- nounces so loudly that the laundry bill is a consideration. How well our military chief dresses. His clothes seem part of himself. Do you know his tailor? Herbert Kelcey patronizes a ood tailor. Did you notice his excellent ounie suit in the'second act. The men in the ceum are a well-groomed, well- turned-out set. An Eastern friend wanted to know the other day who isthe man owning a mail phaeton here who has his coachman drive it while he sits beside him. For outing the reefer is again the style, but is double-breasted and quite short, with a decided notch collar. Englishmen are wearing the absurd little bobtailed coat, cutaway in front and sack behind. It has scarcely any outside pockets, but this garment is worn by very young men. The cutaway, or morning, coat seems to be gaining in favor, and is much worn. Men’s clothes are so much alike when one attempts to describe them that we should remember “it is only the minute accent here and there which bring out the dis- tinct personalities,” and even the “only” Poole could not have imparted any stvle to some figures. C.C. B e BREAKFAST ON THE PIAZZA. The popular summer ‘home is the kitchenless cottage, whose inmates take their meals at an adjacent hotel. To be entirely delightful the freedom from | kitchen responsibilities must be happily combined with the possibilities of serving piazza breakfasts. For these have, to be- gin with, at one end of the piazza, away irom the wind, a place for the kerosene stove. To be quite at ease, have two stoves, on the smaller of which the coffee will be | making while the rest of the breakfast cooks. Oatmeal in any of 1its up-to-date formsis done in a jiffy. = Just stirit intoa | saucepan with milk, a little salt and some | butter. While it cooks beat up the exgs | with a little milk. Then off comes the oatmeal, to keep nice ard hot under cover | while the eggs are scrambled. These done, will keep hot also, covered and not dished. Now, on the vacated stove mount | the oven and pop in the rolls bought of the | baker. In a minute they are hot. Mean- while the coffee has boiled up the required | five times, is now *‘settling’’ on the turned- | down flame and breakfast is ready. The porridge and eggs, each in its sauce- pan, goes into the oven with the rolls. All this time—not so very long either—the | other folks have been eating their fruitand | shouting directions at the cook, and now | with the coffee-pot in one hand and the | oven in the other, you bring the rest of the | breakiast. Hot plates? Of course, noth- | ing easier. Thev were put in the oven for just the last minute, or they have been | balanced on top of the oven from ' the time | it went on the flame. | Here are some more dishes that may be served for a piazza meal. Shave off little | curls of breakfast bacon, fry them a golden brown and serve them heaped around the | dish of scrambled eggs, because dishes can be served whenever the wind is not so | fresh that it is wiser to keep the breakfast in the oven. Delicious toast is made by | laying slices of bread on an asbestos mat over the oiistove. Fritters of all kinds are easily prepared, and if one of the party is willing to be cook, can be served delight- fully fresh from the kitchen end of the piazza to the table end. With some cold boiled potatoes from the dining-room and a few slivers of fried onion a aelicious hash can be made -with canned corned beef and baked in the oven a few minutes. Canned boned chicken | shredded or cut into cubes, with some cubes of boiled potatoes and a cream of milk and butter and a little bit of flour for | thickening, is delicious all heated to- gether. This may le done in a chafing dish right on the table, or if done in the ‘‘kitchen” can be served in the chafing | dish to keep warm. There are man{ ways to make coffee, but they result in much that is hardly drinkable, so a method that never fails deserves attention. Take the very finest grade of coffee to start with. Break a raw egf and mix it, shell and all, with as much coffee as it will take up, which is a little more than a good-sized cupful. Putthe mixture in an ordinary coffee pot, with five cups of cold water. Put on the fire and stir every little while. It will soon | take spurts of boiling up, and after that it will boil steadily. This latter condition should come after about five “upboils”-or in from fifteen to twenty minutes from the beginning. While it boils turn in halfa cup of cold water, turn down the lamp and let the pot stand undisturbed for at least ten minutes. So managed coffee should be invariabiy perfect. e FOR MAIDS THAT ARE OR ONCE ' WERE SHY. Let no young woman be disturbed over the fact that she is shy, for to be shy, if one is shy prettily. is to be very charming. Having become satisfied of the truth of this, don’t at once be overcome by it and rush to the wrong extreme, for to be shy rettily one must be shy guardedly, o the ollowing hints will, no doubt, be " eagerly seized by many a girl who, having got over her shyness, wishes she hadn’t, al- though they are directed to the girl who is really shy—that is, the one who feels her cheeks become scarlet if she even thinks anybody 1s looking at her, whose heart beats fast when she is spoken to and whose limbs actually tremble so wnen she has to come into arToom where thers are stran- ers that she really is miserable instead of Enppy at the party or ‘‘good time” she tries to enjoy. The pretty pink that comes into the cheeks is very attractive. There is no big- ger compliment in the world than that same pink and a drooping of the eyes at his regard. Don’t try to face out such shyness—let it have its own way. If the eyelids just won’t keep up let ttem stay down till you are more at ease. Don’t feel that Kcu must force yourself to behave like the girls who are quite at ease. That will be to make yourself affected and hysterical and to take the pretty tremble out of the voice and putan ugly strained giggle there instead. “Yes” and ‘“No” wilF do very well if they are all you can say; but sura to say them as best you can without letting yourself be sulky be- cause you can do no_better. The person you are talking to will see that genuine shyness,is the matter and will like you all the better for it. It is a great mistake to try to cover shy- ness by a kind of crossness that makes the other ‘person think himself to blame for our silence. It is much better to look u onestly at him, even if your eyes are \H full of tears because you feel yourself so awkward and stupid and confess that you are fn'fhtened. ‘ou may depend upon it he will be at_once so_thoughtful, so kind and so well pleased with you that you will be at ease in_less than no time. The shy girl often finds herself left alone, and this, making her feel sheis not “a success,” causes her to suffer the more. Then her face takes on a look of sulky distress that makes her noticeable and not attractive, Don’t let yourself feel that way. You are fortunate to get a chance to be by yourself a little while, and if you take it it way it will probably be only for a little while. Just sit with your hands clasped in your lap; don’t let them flutter about; jump: shyness is not pretty. Look at the others having a good time, and think how nice it is to get a chance to see it all without being expected to do anything yourself. Thisis sure to make you forget your own lack of ease, and then half the battle is gained— gained very prettily, too. se b MOMENTS WITH MELONS. The woman who has a watermelon patch in her back yard, or even a single example of the seductive fruitin her refrigerator, need not. hesitate to embark upon a summer "entertainment requiring ‘‘refreshments.” Of all delicacies sgecially adapted to the re- quirements of the lawn lunch the water- melon is *supreme and the table upon whose proud’ center rests the noble fruit, its green and glossy side cleft to show the rosy pulp within, is already decorated. TUpon the cutting of the melon depends much of its success, and there are many ways. A favorite and decorative fashion isto divideit by cutting about the center in points, separating the fruit into two pieces with ‘‘vandyked' ediges. ‘What, could be more fashionable? If the fruit be firm and’ pink the choicest pieces may be cut into little cubes and these be piled on a_ platter spread with a napkin. Sucha platter must stn{ in the icéchest to the last moment, that the edges of the rosy cubes may not wilt. Folks there be who will in- sist on eating sugar with this fruit, and others, more sensible, demand salt; so, to please all, both may be at hand, but it would be an insult to the melon to say that either is essential. Jamaica ginger—well, that isn’t to be served, but it's well to know .what shelf the bottle’s on, for like other mediums of dissipation the melon sometimes brings blue moments. Every one knows that when the center of the halves have thus been cut away the hollow left may be filled with wine, the halves returned to the icechest, reappear- ing with the rounded ends cut a little so tne fruit will stand firm. A dainty dipper and a scoop are used to serve this water- melon punch, and the delicious, almost frappe liquid, with little scooped-up pieces of the fruit afloat ir it, is served in cut glass, or just as well in the tall, thin glasses that can be bought so cheaply and are so presty. A little slice of lemon, one of orange and perhaps a tiny tuft of mint will decorate tge top of the glass and coax the vanquished participator to take g great deal more than he should and so prove the punch a success. hile no fruit is more decorative, every care must be taken that the dishes upon which it is served must not become sloppy, nor the fruit saturated with a mess of floating juice and seeds. Either the juice and fruit, cut or scooped, must be regarded as a dish in itself and be served as from the hollow of the fruit itself, or else the meat separated from the rinds must be kept dry and be freed from seeds. The rind of the melon cut in little new moons, the pink pulp all smoothly removed, may be boiled tillit is a clear pulp, green and all, but not long enough to let it begin to fall to pieces. This allowed to cool in a punch of spiced sherry and the whole brought to an almost icy temperature will then separate, the new moons, now delicious, quivering, half- transparent segments, to be eaten with cake like anice; the-punch, so delicately flavored that only a connoisseur will recog- nize the cause, to appear in cups. —_— THE MAN WHO PRESUMES. Did he? Well, don’t be so indignant aboutit. A man,as a rule, is not aware that he is presuming, he thinks he is merely taking advantage of an opportunity given him, and, remember, how angry girls are when a man does not take ad- vantage of an opportunity. Of course a ‘“nice girl” is not purposely giving men opportunities to be impertinent or disre- ufiectfixl, but if he is that, it is more prob- able that he thought you gave such an opportunity than that He did it with reck- less disregard of your disapproval. When a man makes such a ‘‘mistake,’”’ he usually feels as bad about it as you, if he realizes it is a mistake, or else, serene in the belief that you gave him the chance and gave it ta. him purposeiy, he wonders what you are making such a fuss about. That’s the truth of the matter. and now about the opportunities girls give. The only wonder is that men behave as well as they do. Girls seem to depend en- tirely upon men’s good taste and self-con- trol and very little upon their own be- havior to insure them respectful treatment. That's more truth of the matter. If a voung woman crosses her feet and tucks one prettily shod toe high in the round of the chair in front of her she must be clever enough to do it with a faultless air of un- consciousness or the man is quite justified in taking the move as a challenge to his attention to the pretty ankle. He may feel justified in letting the offender see that he takes advantage of the opportunity given him, and he might, not knowing her very well, or thinking the challenge war- ranted it, be unpleasant. Then she must et out of it as best she can and afterward eave such tricks alone. If she was really just thoughtless she may be as distressed as she likes. If he sees the distress is genuine he will be very sorry, but all the same he is not really to blame. It is the same way when girls are alone, traveling, perhaps, or through their own carelessness or bravado do without escort in a public place. They imagine that men must know by instinct thatthey are ladies. Well, maybe” if the girls are really be- having very carefully the men may Kn by instinct, or the men may take the situa- tion as a challenge, and it really is, yon know. If vou get ‘“‘spoken to,” better take it asif you are sure the intent was respect- ful. Be gentle, grave and. quiet about it. Ten to one the man will be jolly.glad you supposed he was behaving the gentleman instead of the experimenter, and get out of it promptly, with every effort to support the mistake you seem to have made. As for you, don’t set. him down as a ‘‘cad,” but remember that you were taking chances, and remember not to lead an- other man to join you in your mistake at any another occasion. Food Removes wrinkles and all traces of age. It feeds through the pores and builds up the fatty mem- branes and wasted tissues, nour- ishestheshriveled and shrunken skin, tones and invigorates the nerves and muscles, enriches the impoverished blood vessels, and supplies youth and elasticity to theaction of the skin. It’s perfect. Food, $1.50 and $3, at all drug- iy m“‘l'n M. "A LE, Hal’l’lh and Beauty stores. 146 State street, Ohicago. Beauty ik malied tren- 1 NEW TO'DAY. A R M RS s e b OO SR YRPARIS ~ SEMI-ANNUAL Clearance Sale BEFORE STOCK-TAKING. Curtain Dep't BALANCE OF OUR IRISH POINT CURTAINS. 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