The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, June 30, 1895, Page 15

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, JUNE 30, 1895. 1 < Some [NTERESTING Fastion Char, Thus far I have never written at any Jength about mourning gowns, concerning which Mme. Grundy has laid down some very positive rules governing the period during which such somber garments should be worn. For instance, a widow should wear mourning for eighteen , linage is worn during the first six s with crepe, during the next six I silk and lace, and during the last six balf mourning materials. At the be- ginning of mourning a long dress shquld be worn in the house. The English widow's cap is now in favor in America. At the sleeves and neck trimmings of batiste are used, being more agreeable than crepe trimmnings, which so frequently discolor the skin. Young widows frequently wear indoors a veil of crepe luxe in black or white. Such a veil falls just over the shoulders. Should a widow marry before the time her mourning expires she can wear either a very plain white dress without ornamen- tation of any kind, with a long black lace veil covering the face and falling over the train, ora gown of pearl gray silk and a bonnet of the same shade trimmed with lilac or mauve. Moarning for a parent, father or mother in-law shou.d be worn one year; six months wool and crepe, three months silk and three months half mourning. Mourn- ing for grandparents, brothers or sisters lasts six months, and no English crepe is used. Light mourning may be donned for three months for an aunt or uncle. Again, parents are wearing black for even their very young children. i Up to six years of age children wear as their mourning dead white; older ones wear either black or gray trimmed with white. Idonotthink I shall ever forget when a little child seeing twin babies ab- solutely covered with crepe because they had lost their father. Even the big baby carriage was upholstered in black. They were very jolly mites, and I used to wonder how under such circumstances they could ever shake a rattle or crow like other babies, but I do not consider this dressing of the twins so bad as to dress in deep mourning nervous and impressionable children who may be made miserable by such s constant reminder of a loss. Dead white has been worn by the Prin- cess of Wales as mourning when at home; indeed, it is considered in the best of taste A black dress mor for those who can afford it. is always presumably worn to funerals whether the wearer is In auy way or not connected with the mourners. Mourning is exceedingly expensive, as only the best materials can be used if the costume is to look like anything, and even then it will soon become shabby if worn in a dusty place where constant b! 1ings are necessary. severely simple dress of good cash- mere trimmed with English crepe will cost, even in Paris, about $60, and that is without silk linines. Huge veils reaching to the bottom of the dress and enveloping the figure are much worn in Europe, and are of the lightest, most_transparent texture. A new crepe been placed upon the English and it has a great advantage over anufactured heretofore, in that ymess does not affect it in the least; may be positively rained on »g spoiled. outfits are, of course, to be 'had, are the poorest investments pos- women and girls are_shown dresses for demi-mdurning t becoming. One of white hed with a ruche of black 1 t below the elbow was : satin ribbon. With zloves and a dainty lested black chiffon, h of white. Fer giris the of the same fabric, but in this case > scrap of black appearing whiteness. the subject, the Frénch all been rushed preparing for But to cha modists hav indoor wear gowns are cut to show the throat, if it isa pretty one, otherwise do cover it up, and the style is an agreeable one, especially for short-necked women. It is predicted thatat Ascot plaids will be much worn and they will measure about an inch and a half and theee colors are uspally combined. Plum, green and black is one favorite combination, and white, blue and purple is very much liked. All these plaids are direct from Paris and some very beautiful ones have found their way here and are to be found in a few of our own leading stores. These plaids not Coat and Skirt in gray alpaca. band are of white satin.—The Queen. Paris which are worth traveling miles to see. I must describe a few of them. The first is a dainty thing of sheerest muslin, dead white and embroidered, but the waist has the most exquisite yoke of dark yellow Valenciennes lace insertion with here and there a line of white embroidery; the lace is of the finest, and the sleeves especially novel. This gown is made over the same sheer white muslin, but not em- broidered, and only cost to import about $100; and then, lying close beside it, I saw a gown of creamy batiste, all embroldered, and not made over silk, but over the most ex%nisiuly fine orange colored muslin, under which came a third skirt of plain batiste. The neck of this lovely creation had a dainty ruche of yellow fieid flowers. Yet another frock was of batiste, but this one had its embroidery all done in a pale shade of grass green, most chic and sum- mery, the ribbons of satin exactly match- ing. %hese models should be seen to be ap- preciated, and that they are appreciated has manifested the good taste of our women. These gowns show a novelty in that they ~ The former is made with revers. The waistcoat and only are used for blouses, but for skirts also. Tiiese entire costumes of plaid I hoYe will not be indulged in except by ! tall and stylish women, who ean carry | them off properly. One costume, described as unusually pretty, had a green, white and black p!aitfalnn and a bodice of green shot silk, covered with a grass lawn, finely embroidered, with great sleeves of the | proved by having yokes of a plain color, | covered with heavy Irish point, and if the | waist is not small and is sharply outlined, Blouse of striped white glace silk, studded with pink flowers. Guipure revers and cuffs; green satin rosette bows.—The Queen. the Grand Prix, and every one of them has been racking her versatile brain for abso. lutely new conceptions, so. we may shortly expect not a few delightful novelties, and many model gowns will be shipped in our direction., This much I can tellyou in advancs that many of the bodices for the Grand Prix are to be fashioned of satin covered with Russian netand motives of guipure in con- ventional designs; the sleeves will princi- pally be a la balloon and reach the elbow only, but odd varieties of sleeves are now the rage, uhowinfi at a glance the style and chic' possessed by the contriver. Long white gloves will be almost universally seen. Painted linens will be the favorite ma- terials, and. delicately shaded poppies in the palest of mauves and rose pinks are the flowers most generally used for their decoration. One charming toilet is com- Fosed of linen and applications of Bruges ace, over mauve. taffetas; the lunshnSe, cape, dress are entirely covered with this beautiful lace. White chine silks with bouquets of golden marguerites, muslins of every pale shade, with alternate lace, pearl and silver insertions; light shot silk skirts and capes to match, trimmed with only a pinked ruching around the hood—with which all ‘the capes are made—are among the prin- cipal novelties of which I have randp.nd heard about. Some tailor gowns are also to be seen in pearl gray and white in the most beautiful satin-faced alpacasand iques, giving them a particular cachet_onll; found in Paris- made suits. The jackets are short and smart in cut and the full skirts fit tightly around the hips; the graceiul sleeves are works of art, having the fullness distrib- uted in exac{iy the right places. All these points being duly considered, make the tailor gown \a thing of beauty, but they will not be a joy forever, asin a month or 80 a new model will command our admir- * Pathion'Has decieed thi ‘aghion has decreed that the f shall hold its own for some time to cur::ulnd it is made in muslin or lace or silk and lace with equally good effect, but for my own part I prefer the muslin. Those made of eilk are usually passed beneath a belt at the back, the muslin ones do not reach the Wwaist, and are rounded in the back, falling in front with long ends to the knees. For 4 ol Black and white Chine silk blouse, with lace cape.—The Queen. bave a belt of black, either silk or satin ribbon. 5 Muslins, grass lawns, chambries, organ- dies, chiffons and batistes, in fact every light, cool, pretty, fresh and dainty fabric, are being sgfllful]y handled by our best modistes, not one of them scorning to use the most inexpensive of them asall of them can be made up into gowns for— what shall I say?—the preitiest woman in the world, a highbred American gentle- woman. One ofg our own modistes, that is she 15 a Frenchwoman, but has_been here for years, has some gowns direct from | plaid silk. Blouses of plaid silk are im- | appear to have no seams, being united with ‘tines of hemstitching. Now organdies are extremely pretty, as are many of the sum- mer goods, but they are sadly perishable, while the muslin gown and the batistes I have described are most serviceable, stand- ing any number of washings, but if oneis clever with the needle and scissors and wants inexpensive little gowns let me de- scribe one which will do asa model for many. It is of yellowish dotted muslin made up with black satin ribbons, and the frills are all edged with a pretty little black lace. Buch muslin can be found very good at 20 cents per yard and fifteen yards is sufficient. Now I” must leave this sub- ject of light and flimsy things and tell you about tennis and iofl gowns, as they are now thought to leok better when the skirt and corselet are cut in one piece, as this is said to insure the perfection of graceful lines to the figure and Prevem all annoy- ances which may arise from having to wear a belt. All sporting gowns have their cape or mantel matching or contrasting with the cloth, and silks only are tolerated for lin- ings and are harmonious in tone. Yacht- ing and boating costumes are, as I have before mentioned, adorned not only with cuffs and collars of white or ecrn lawn, but with frills as well, which are all made soas to be easily removed, giving the gown a pretty air of freshness. Pique, canvas and white duck also figure extensively for col- iars, cuffs and reveres, and are likewise e up 50 as to be easily laundried. The cloth always is made up so as to lie over these cotton duplicates, givin, perfect finish to them. Vogue remar] ‘Truly the coming season will have but few charms for wemen whose purses are scant- ily filled, for what with dresses devouring thirty yards of material in the making, Lonis ~ Seize hats, adorned by one or two dozen fine marabout feathers, besides flowers, lace, ospreys, }ewels etc., and sunshades made entirely of orchids or other expensive blossoms’ feminine ac- couterments will be simply ruinous if one wants to follow Madame Le Mode'a dictates ever 50 humbly.” Well, [ am thankful to say that the average California girl, even with restricted means, manages to find a charm in most seasons and usually looks as pretty and fetching under her simple white India parasol with its chiffon puffs as though costly blossoms were nodding over her—she certainly has as happy a time, even if her gown only cost $5, as anv maiden to be found anywhere, but then you see we have so much sunshine here that it is not surprising if a good deal of it gets into our hearts, and if we can keep it there a good time is assured under Two charming costumes for young women, designed to be worn at a floral fete.~Revue de la Mode. most circumstances. To conclude let me tell you that hats adorned with nastur- tiums and white wings are fashionable and colored tulles matcbing the flowers used are very much used on summer hats for country wear. MARCELLA. THE WOMAN'S ~ BIBLE. Interview With Mrs. Eliza- beth Cady Stan- ton. She Has Met With Chilling Indif- ference From the Sex She Is Striving to Help. From the numerous paragraphs afloat one is led to suppose that there is to be a new edition of the Bible arranged to suit the fancy of the nineteenth-century woman. That is all a nistake. There never was the slightest intention on the . part of the feminine revising committee of revising the entire Bible or even any part of it for the purpose of giv- ing the public a new edition of the grest volume. The women who conceived this idea of “The Woman’s Bible,” as they have named the book that is destined to bea subject of indignation, agitation, interest and probable profit, have only in view an interesting compi'ation of comments touching upon those portions of the Holy ‘Writ that especially relate to women. Such a book would have inestimabie value as a reflection of the mental attitude of the woman of to-day toward the Bible, provided it were mossible to have com- ments from intelli ;ont women who still believe the Bible to be inspired from cover to cover, as well as from those who look upon it as merely a history of the Jewish people and the events incident to the com- ing of Christ and perhaps as fallible as | other histories. But it appears this is not altogether feasible. !\(}:‘5. Elizabeth Cady Stanton, the head and front of t! ¢ possible offending, in a recent interview with the writer says of this—but, without dounbt the whole in- terview would be of irterest, being at any rate, an authenti¢ statement of what the women hope to do with ‘“The Woman'’s Bible.” ““Mrs. Stanton, will you tell me, for pub- lication, what is ‘The Woman’s Bible?’ " “‘The Woman’s Bible’is to consist of comments on those parts of the Bible that refer to women, which can all be found in aboutone-eleventh part of the Old and New Testaments.” “How long will it be before the book will be ready to be given to the public?"’ “We hope to get it out within a year, but may not.’ ‘“What was your idea as to your coadju- tors In the work?” “‘My idea was to have all sects and shade of thought represented, to get the opinion of the women of the nineteenth century as to what they thought of the Bible. But I fear I shall not succeed in that. Evangeli- cal women believe that it is the word of God, and it would be irreverent to pass any criticism on it. Liberal women reject it altogether as authority and think it a waste of time to read it, much less write about it.”” “What is your own opinion?”’ “l do not agree with either side. The book has a strong hold on multitudes of women, and is the chief block in the way of their emnnciFntion. The general ten- dency of the teaching is to degrade woman, to assign_her an inferior position, subject to man. It makes her the origin of evil, marriage a condition of slaverv, maternity a curse. The Pentateuch makes all fe- males unclean, a female Jamb too unclean for a burnt offeri Read the five books throuEh and decide for yourself.” . “What is gropoud as the mission of the woman’s Bible?” ‘I want to show women that the book is written by men for men, and that it is a blasphemy for the authors te claim that God thus degraded the mothers of the race. No man has ever seen or talked with God, and when those old Hebrews tell us God said so, we know it was a figment of their imagination.”” “What is to be your own share in the work ?” “I am commenting on the Pentateuch, and hope to get that out as part first dur- ing the summer.” The women who have worked long and faithfully for the emancipation of theirsex have long ago come teo realize the powerful weapon their enemies hold in these three words. “The Bible says.” While the great mass of women believe the Bible to be the actual word of God, its authority closes their ears to all allusions to the taking of any position on any subject whatever not in accordance with the teach~ ings of the testaments. Therefore it will be seen that the breakinfi down_of the au- thority of the Bible as the inspired word of God will give an added impetus to the women’s movement which has always found its strongest opponentsin the pulpit and its general teachings of the inferiority of women based always upon the word of God as revealed in the Bible. No one will gainsay, no matter what position he or she may take on the woman question, that the leaders who plan the campaigns of the Suffrage party have made Napoleonic efforts for the cause, and that this last movement of blunting the edge of the keenest sword that is wielded against them is a stratagem worthy of their already well-earned laurels as leaders of what has been so long looked upon asa lorlorKn. hope. A QUIOK BIOYOLE OOURTSHIP. Some of the Advantages of Lovemaking on a Wheel. “Talk about septiment and cycling,” said Charlie Van Anden. ‘‘There is noth- ing knocks the romance out of things so altogether as taking a girl out for a spin on her wheel, or joining a party off for a bicycling tour. = “It’s about the most ‘prosaic proceeding I know, to trundle a young woman’s ma- chine up hill for her; or to strike a rough bit of road and have to go single file along the side path, she yards ahead, you me- andering on behind. Or even on the level it is deuced slow. You couldn’t possibly ask agirl to Eo unless you were very fond of her, and then it would only be an ag- ravation, for you can’t get close enough a:squeeze her hand or tell her how nE:e she is.” “‘Now. see here, old feliow,” I remarked, “it is very evident that your experience with girls and wheels is limited. I hap- pened to have been best man last Tuesday upon a happy occasion, the climax of a quick courtship, where I was of it, but not not in it. “It was just a year ago this month when the Ramsdells arranged a tour through the Hoosatonic Vailey. Now, Mrs. Stewart Ramsdell is not in the least fitted for a chaperone, though she seems to take pleas- urein the role. This was the wa; Yz all happened. [ ““Well, it amused me more than a little to see the maneuvers of that week’s trip. Jim ranged himself next to Miss Mazy, who looked wonderful smart in her linen frock and shirt waist, and a nondescript, natty headgear with a peak back an nt. “Jim’s divinity insisted upon pushing her own machine up all the hills, and Jim would take the inside track, keeping his wheel abreast of hers, but on his left so that he could manage to get close to her. He was always doing something for her, or helping her with her wheel; and the way their hands did get tangled up was a caution. I kept my weather eye on them just to see the fun and help along in case of an emergency. ‘‘One day it began to rain toward even- ing and we stopped to rig up. It was touehing to see the “ii“m buttoned his lady love into her mackintosh and put on her rubbers. The operation took so long that we started on, much to Sister Rams- dell’s disgust, as Jim was the rich bachelor uncle in the family, and too precious to let slip. She had to hurry, for Stewart had her toggery in his carrier, and he had gone ahead to make arrangements at the Bear ““dhfox Inn, where we were to stop over night. “We arrived about 7 o’clock, but that blessed pair of spoons neyer gnt in an ap- ge-rance until after 9, with Bister Rams- ell nearly in a fit meanwhile. They turned it off by solemnly declaring they took the wrong road and got lost. fwont out with a lantern to help them unload, and my eye lit, first thin‘, on a long hair- pin sticking to one of Jim’s buttons on the front of his coat. I kept mum, but picked up the giveaway and restored it to its right- ful owner. It was jolly to hear.her cun- ning little laugh and see the color come up gnmt l];u cheeks. Jim looked pleased to leath. “‘The last day, on the home run, it was evident thin{s were coming to a climax. Jim never left his charmer’s side, and how he did make eyes at her! Itwas equally evident that Mrs. Ramsdell was bent on nipping the climax in the bud. She planted herself on Miss Mazy’s other side, and there she stayed. No amount of diversion on my part or persuasion on Jim's could budge her. But that little brown-eyed girl was equal to her. The day was a scorcher, and she knew her future connection-in-law’s too, too solid flesh would melt under pressure; so what did she do but nod to Jim and insist upon our all racing for home. Mrs. Ramsdell’s vociferous protestations were of no avail: we all saw the game and joined in the fun. Off we started, but in ten minutes’ time Mrs. R. was completely winded, Jim and Miss McBride out of sight. and the rest of us had dropped oat of the race. ‘“How they managed it I did not insist upon knowing, but Jim did confide in me, when the engagement was announced, so far as to say that thei settled it on that home run, probably when they stopped to rest from their exertions and cool off under some shady tree. “And last Tuesday evening I had the honor of lending my assistance when Miss Mazy, demurest possible little bride, was transtormed into Mrs. Jim. On that occa- sion Sister Ramsdell’s joy seemed a bit forced. “‘So, my man,” I concluded, knocking my pipe against the railing, “‘never again, because of your narrow personal experi- ence, declare that sentiment and cyeling are incompatible. When you are so tempted recall to mind that rapid court- ship to which I was a witnes.” Harorp HALSTED. FIRST PRINCIPLE OF A GRAOE- FUL OARRIAGE. To put the feot down prettily is to walk gracefully, to seem to have a pretty foot whether it is really pretty or not, to secure a stylish carriage, to make the skirt hang well and the waist seem long, to—well, to put the foot down well is to secure many of the blessings of life. Don’t believe it when you are told to put the toe down first. The foot should be so lightly poised on the ankle that when the lift from the hip is made in taking a step, the foot nat- urally swings, toe down, so that the for- ward part of the foot touches the ground first. That is very different in effect from stiffly Fointing the toe down and trying to walk that way. Put the feet down so that the heels would keep pretty closely on an imaginary chalk line, the toes always fall- ing a little outside of the line. The full weight of the body should be on the foot that is on the ground, and one ought to be able to balance prettily at any moment on the single foot that is supposed to be car- rying the walker’s weight. If thiscan be done it is proof thatthe body is well poised and well carried. It is, of course, nice to have a “‘springy’’ step, the giris in the book usually have 'em, and the nice young hero always has that sort; but no matter how springy the step is, if the foot is rfut down properly the head will be carried along a peé;ectly level line, and not go bnbbin‘z up and down like a ship in a high sea. If the heels follow aline and the toes fall inside thelinea little then the body will advance without any side-swinging of the shoualders. This turning of the body first to the right and then to the left is a general fault of Ameri- can women, and if the foot is put down properly this awkwardness will be avoided. The woman who wears a house gown of correct length that gracefully hangs about the feet and touches the tloor all areund should hardly lift her sole from the floor when she walks. The heel rises a little, but the toe pushes prettily forward, shov- ing the hem of the dress out of the way as the step is taken. To put the foot down well is to walk well, to stand well, to be well, and, besides, it has a moral side, for the girl who has the strength of mind to say ‘“No’’ in the right place is the girl who can ‘“‘put her foot down,” isn't she? 1f a woman could only be guaranteed that footing her bills would be included she would be converted to the proper way of walking at once, but that cannot be done, and graceful walkers are very scarce. S SO b HOW TO PACK SUMMER FINERY. To get the pufferies of summer gowns into the summer trunks without ruining them is a severe task. Sleeves must be stuffed out with crisp brown tissue paper, and each sleeve incased in a similar cover- ing. All loops of bows must be stuffed out, rosettes must be covered and sup- ported by paper, especially the soft little chiffon ones, and fronts of pleated chiffon must be cased in it. Then gevok a deep tray to all bodices that have big sleeves. Lay the bodices with their wrong sides flat on the bottom of the tray, the sleeves resting on their armholes ana standing stiffly up, supported by their tissue stuffing. You will be surprised how many bodices can be fitted in this way into a tray. -Often the bodice itself will take a sort of pleat so that the two sleeves rest close tozether, but not crushing each other. tray properly packed will show a bewildering assortment of great soft puffs, and in between these, softly so as not to crush or be crushed, all sorts of little dainties may go, such as lace ruffs, fancy collars, knots and bows of ribbons. Finally, tissue paper roiled in soft balls and twisted into fi)eose TOpes secures any Blnce that seems inclined to wobble. odices will unpack from such a tray and show not a trace of travel. The stiffened organ-pipe skirt should have a trunk long enough fo obviate the necessity of folding the skirt, for to fold without great care is to crease, and if the folds be the rounded ergan-pipe kind each one must be built out with paper, though if you are pushed for room, underwear may be folded and laid in the pleats. Soft paper should be laid over each garment and between all portions of the garment that rub against each other. Sash ends and long streamers of ribbon may be rolled over with long strips of paper a little wider than the ribbon, the paper being pinned to keep the roll in place. The airy nothings known as theater and reception hats may be packed eight and ten deep, only each must be re-en- forced with tissue paper that while the combined conglomeration of gewgaws is 8o closely wedged that nothing can move a half inch, yet no tiny flare of feather or bit of lace is crushed. The fashionable round cape that falls in godets must be covered first with tissue paper, then with stiff brown paper. The cape, paper and all, is rolled into a tight cornucopia, like a magnified Christmas- tree ornament. The entirely plain cape packs perfectly this way. e fancy one must have more care, all jets and beadings being literally packed in tissue, all s and puffs having tissue re-enforcement, and ruches beig built up with paper tili, no matter how soft the material, crushing is impossible. The picture hat may be rendered secure not only with paper, but by packing about it all the little airy nothings of the toilet that are too dainty to go eisewhere. Hats too g:‘lllo:fe gsn o; su“ch mkin‘g. are ;\::- n n Xes , Cross e e:nfin swinging, ’au the bo::: are packed snugly 80 they will not be crushed. 1 pib 'E HoME EMERGENCY FOR THE TREATMENT FOuRTH OF JULY. iy WALV AR R RS All the ounces of prevention that wise men can weigh out will not stave off pain- ful accidents in this season of the glorious Fourth, so the far-sighted mother looks over her stock of home cures, knowing that they are the most effective agents of the'season, even if they are devreciated cnmnc{ in the adage. These should in- clude old linen or sheet lint, sweet oil, vaseline, bicarbonate of soda, witch hazel for bruises, lead and opium wash fer sprains, l_né a5 per cent solution of car- bolic acid to be diluted with two- thirds water and used to cleanse wounds and cuts. All aué)plieu are best kept in a clean basket lined with unbleached muslin or oiled muslin with a cover of unbleached muslin to keep the contents free from dust. A small roll of absorbent cotton should be added to the contents of the basket and a few muslin bandages. Then there should be a pair of scissors with dull points, well sharpened, needles, thread, common and safety pins, courtplaster and a small bottle gi flexible collodion for small cuts and urns. Collodion forms a coating that excludes the air, and should be applied with a camel’s-hair-brush after the cut is cleansed from sand and dirt by using either car- bolic or boracic acid solution or a solution made with borax and water. Use a bit of absorbent cotton for wash- ing cuts and bruises, putting several pieces into the basin_and throwing them into the fire after using. Sponges should not be used for open wounds unless first put through an elaborate cleansing process which requires time and labor. Cotton is quite as good except for a serious surgical operation, and then the surgeon supplies the sponges. ‘Witch hazel is excellent for bruises, and is more efficacious if made hot and applied afew inches from the discoloration, the heat relaxing the congested blood vessels, while cold applications cause them to contract still more. Arnica is unsafe to use for bruises if the skin is broken, as it is a powerful poison, and the absorption through the skin is sufficient to poison any one using it. The Fourth’s greatest danger to women lies in the possibility of clothing catching fire. If every woman would try to impress it strongly upon her own mind what she must do at such a time, not a few lives might be saved thereby. The process is simple, the difficult point being to remem- ber and act on it at the right moment. Don’t run about, but try to smother the flame by lying down and rolling in a rug, a shawl or blanket, or if that be not at hand itis better to roll upon the ground. Children should be made acquainted with this point as far as possible. Put a burned person quickly in bed and cover up with plenty of blankets. There is always more or less depression, known as ‘‘shock,” which is sometimes very dangeroys and which may occur with slight burns. The symptoms of shock are cold skin, feeble pulse and respiration, partial or complete unconsciousness and sometimes nausea, pallor and a pinched look aboutr the face. Hot water in rubber ban and bottles should be | glaced at the feet, under the armpits and etween the legs, and whisky and brandy be given. One teaspoonful of whisky in one tablespoonful of hot water is the dose, and it sheutd be given slowly and carefully to a semi-conscious patient. Repeat every fifteen minutes. Hot milk, tea or coffee may be substituted, and the physician should be sent for while these things are being done. Do not attempt to dress the burns without & doctor. For severe burns where the skin is blistered or destroyed, oil, vaseline or balsam of Peru are fre- quently used spread on sheet lint. The clothing should be cut off with scissors, and the physician will direct the after- treatment. A person suffering from burns should be kept in bed, as the exhaustion is great and there is danger of pneumonia, acute bronchial irritation and also even in slight burns frequent irritation of the small intestines. All of these should be vrepared for by keeping the patient in a recumbent position and using fluid orlight diet liberally supplied. ‘When the small boy comes in with powder blown into his face use a thickly sprinkled layer of bicarbonate of soda, unless the skin is destroyed, when oil or sheet lint or old linen cut into a mask is the best. If the soda is used make a mask o(dl‘men, moisten it and apply over the soda. Boracic acid is a mild disinfectant, which can be dissolved at home. Use half an ounce of the powder to a pint of boiled or sterilized water. Thisis a safe wash for the eyes, using a glass eye-cup which fits the socket of the eye. Use the cup half full of the solution, and, holding the face over it till the cup is in position, throw back the head and open and shut the eye several times, thus permitting the water to cleanse the eyeball and remove any for- eign substance. If bleeding occurs notice if the blood cemes in spurts and is bright red .or flows freely and is dark red. The bright red is from the arteries, and a pressure’' must be made between the cut and the heart. If dark red there is a hemorrhage from the veins, and pressure must be made below the cut and farthest from the heart, as the blood in the veins is returning to the heart while the blood in the arteries is direct from the heart. The arterial hemorrhage is more dangerous becanse the flow is more rapid in the arteries and the loss of blood greater in the same space of time. Make a compress of a towel and tie over the muscle in the arm or leg from which the hemorrhage occurs, making it tight with a bandage or silk handkerchief. For bleeding from the nose make a tight wad of paper or white lint and force it be- tween the outside of the gums and the up- ger lip, holding it with the fingers. Ice eld to the bridge of the noseand. to: the nape of the neck assists the forming of clots. A clot should not be removed for everal hours after the bleeding ceases. Ty to forget your own fear and think only of the necessary and important work to be done. Then you will not fainv and the doctor will praise you for your nerve. B THE OUP THAT OHEERS. It is not the Dresden china, solid silver and tiddle-marees that make tasting tea delightful, and a cup of that amber fluid may be part of the welcome of a most modest hostess. If necessary she can dispense entirely with the table, and the one maid with a clean apron and fresh cap can bring in on a napkined tray the Iittle blue J:gnneue teapot full of fresh tea, the two or three tiny blue cupsand sau- cers, the little blue 5-cent plate with the home wafers, the glass saucer with sliced lemon and the little open bowl of cube sugar. If vou have little solid silver spoons that is nice, but if you haven't cgeir place can be filled by plated ones so dainty that no one will criticize. The tea has been made in the kitchen by pouring boiling water into the teapot through a strainer containing the proper quantity of tea. Japanese pots have a porcelain straine; the top under the cover. This strainer should removed before - the cover is returned, that the tea may not grow strong frem dri&aings. S Such a tray may deposited on any table. at the hostesses’ elbow, and without lni effort or fuss the hostess may pour and serve; ora little bamboe table, per- haps one with the legs shortened by saw- ing off, may make part of the furnishing of the room, and the cups, saucers and sugar may be in place on a spread blue and white paper nl%?in. Then the tea and lemon are to be brought in by the maid. o’clock teakettle is part of the outfit, then everything may be in 5:!@.. The simplest little nickel kettle, with a long handle and mounted en & cast-iron stand- over its nickel lamp, serves as well as solid silver, elaborated copper or brass, and keeps clean much more easily. The Japanese pot may be used, or an aluminum teaball, which is as efficient, nearly as pretty and much less expensive than silver. A prett; hospitality, a fine grade of tea and unaf- fected grace of manner will complete the welcome. Nobody will miss embroidered tea cloths and all the other expensive no- tions. @00D SKIN POSSIBLE WITHOUT O0SMETIOS. So much advice is given to women about the use of cosmetics that one might think a fine complexion something in the nature of a luxury, attainable only by people with plenty of money and time, but it isn’t so. Witness the peasant girls that come over to do housework, with complexions like satin and rose leaves. Cesmetics are for sking that need concealment, and any woman who will take natural care of her skin can make her richest neighbor green with envy, no matter how much time and how many bottles of wonderful stuff the latter has for her skin. Lots of outdoor life, plain, homely food and plenty of exercise are necessities. Bathing? Well, of course, it is iomi to be clean, but the lovely bloom- ing skins of those women who come out of hovels and never saw a bathtub are proofs that bathing or even decent cleanliness isn’t essential to a lovely skin. You see, when veople take no exercise, eat all sor of horrid stuffs and are in the house al day, bathing s the only hygienic resort left, but if a woman lives out of doors as much as she can manage, and subsists chiefly on brown bread, fruit, milk and oatmeal, her skin will at least begin to surprise her for its smoothness and freshness. Since one cannot hope in a month or two to attain the texture of the peasant satin complexion, here are a few of the aids to use. If che skin be exposed to the dus smoke or grime of the city, then it mu: have careful attention to keep it clean. Wash at night with hot soapsuds, rinse with hot water and again with cold, using the cotd water till the skin is chilled. Dry carefully, not rubbing too hard, and dust the face with a little cotton bag stuffed with oatmeal. The powder that comes out insures absolute dryness, and there is an oil in it that is beneficial with- out being greasy. This should do for the ordinary skin, but if the complexion is dreadfully dry use cold cream, vaseline or olive oil for a few nights, rubbing a little in theroughly. In the morning just dash cold water on the face as a freshener and dust with the oatmeal bag after drying. Don't use water on the face during the day. A soft cloth wrung out of milk, or made slightly oily may be rubbed over the face if it seems to be soiled, and you may splash a little water after’ drying and using the meal. But in_the country where the | meadows permit no grime the face ought not to get dirty. Freckles and sunburn? | Nonsense! let them alone. Of course, you must not by sudden and violent exposure to the sun bake and blister yourself, but the tan that comes slowly can only be a beceming addition to the smoothness and color that goes with a healthy skin. Cos- metics are not needed. Be sure your soap | is harmless, avoid all fancy kinds, and use olive oil or a home-made cold cream and a bag of oatmeal. Nething else is necessary, except outdoor life and plain food, with exercise and good temper to aid digestion. TE e Telling Age by the Coiffure. The common objection among woman- kind to letting their age be known is not shared by the ladies of Japan, who actually display their cycle of years in the arrange- ment of their hair. Girls from 9 to 13 wear their hair interlaced with red crape in a semicircle around the head, the fore- head being free, with a curl at each side. From the agesof 15 to 30 the hair is dressed very high on the forehead and gathered up at the back in the shape of a butterfly or fan, with twistings of silver cord and per- haps a decoration of colored balls. Beyond the mulestone of 30 a woman twists her hair around a shell pin placed horizontally at the back of the head. Quite differently again a widow arranges her coiffure. and the initiated are able to tell at a glance whether she desires to marry again or not. Nurse—Come, into the water? Neddie—I don't think mamma wants me to get my new bathing suit wet.—Harper’'s Young People. , why don’t you go Food Removes wrinkles and all traces of age. It feeds through the pores and builds up the fatty mem- branes and wasted tissues, nour- ishestheshriveled and shrunken skin, tones and invigorates the nerves and muscles, enriches the impoverished blood vessels, and supplies youth and elasticity to theaction of the skin. It’s perfect. Yales Skin Food, $1.50 and §3. at all drus- stores. MME. M. Y ALE, Health and Beauty Bpecialist, 146 State street, Chicago. Beauty Guide mailed free. STHEVERY BESTONETO EXAMINT YOUR Iesna s unn:' o Spectacles or E_nzu-u his ewn inventi hoss ot been cauaied. M7 sacoeds has rits of Houn-15 0 r e "o wit en’cflnflza has been di the ue