The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, June 23, 1895, Page 15

L : THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, J 5 | D ey : LTI \ T LI S ,M/ The items of information obtained for these | articles are the result of a close perusal of such London papers as Queen and the Gentlewoman. and of standard Parisian papers like Le Revue de la Mode and Le Moniteur de la Mode. The German fashions are not overlooked as Der Bazar is frequently consulted, so I can say positively that these articles may thoroughly be depended upon, as containing the very latest fashion news from the best sources. Itseems as though the luxurious fashions worn Guring the reign of Louis XVI would hold sway for some time to come, and in keeping with them are the many extrava- | rant little additions to the toilette. A while ago I mentioned the very beautiful [ handles which are sold for parasols, mak- | ing them very costly; now a jeweled | handle 1s quite commonplace uniess v,'nei parasol has its points jeweled. These are, | girls and as tea gowns for their mothers. One Tlikeis of light blue and has dainty sailor collar and cuffs of fine cream-colored washing cambric embroidered. The girdle is of cream-white silk, exactly matching the cambric. None of our last summer's skirts are wide enough to meet the demands of fashion now. However one of our most fashionable and -equally amiable dress- | makers lately altered two last year's| gowns for a friend of mine and the result is excellent. One of the gowns is a good black silk, covered with little green roses. Madame matched the green and introduced | it as panels, which were covered with etted net. The comparatively small sleeves were used to line the very bouffant one of green satin covered with the net. Huge bows of green satin ribbon trimmed the bottom of the skirt at intervals. A white India silk with pink morning glories creeping over it was treated with equal retty gnd young, wore atouch of color, ut the bridesmaids and little sisters were in pure white, the domestics being pro- vided with white India silk dresses. The most fashionable gowns have plain skirts, full sleeves, and bodices of either white satin or shot silk, covered with | has seen before. white or ecru lace, or the full bodices | of the same material as the gown are | fasten them in front give a nice finish. Leather belts on which are reproduced the tooling and ornamentation of old books, and soft prepared chamoise belts hand- painted in an odd fashion, are also nice, and quite different tfrom any other belt one MaRcELLA. e — hidden by a center box pleat and collar in | HYGIENIC OYOLING FOR WOMEN. contrast. A lovely gown just compieted has a skirt | When of pink satin embroidered in silk with | | leaves and stems, the flowers being appli- | The bodice is full, | | with an embroidery of upright leaves and | que artificial roses. stems, meeting a wreath of artificial roses, which border the neck and appear to form a portion of them. Charming waistcoats- are b g made in A pleasant relief is given by these vests to wple child’s frock for evening wear of ose-pink crepon. Bodice of credm white gui- pure, transparent, over the crepon. Belt of 70 tin. The skirc is laid in large godet vue de la Mode. pleat. Gown of fawn-colored face-cloth trimmed | with noss-green velvet. Hat of rough straw | trimmed with green sutin bows.—Revue de la Mode. pon. ! one shade darker than the dress simply @ deeper shade of the fleur de lilas. o | this s worn a_hat of rough green straw Dainty dress for child of pale lavender cre- Skirt is godeted, the trimmi; With adorned with ribbons and plumes shnding | save half the muscular e being of Wheeling Never Wear Close Stays, Never Garter Your Stockings at the Knee, and Always Wear a Gauze Undervest. No less a person than an observant phy- sician offers a world of well-meant counsel to feminine cyclists. “Every other woman one meets,” he | | cream satin, richly embroidered Indian | says,‘‘owns or is raving forthe purchase fashion in gold and colored silk threads. | of a safety, exercise on which there is none better to be found. The wheel takes its rider into the open-air, where Ameri- can women can scarcely spend foo much time, and any one will notice, to their honor, how erect these vetticoated cyclists sit in their saddles, a direct reproach to their hump-shouldered brethren. But there is another side to this picture. It is be- ginners particularly who are tempted to forget the virtue of taking things easily and in their excited interest make the first mistakes.” s “No woman, however strong or eager to learn, should take a cycle lesson overa half hour long, and she should stop fre- quently in the course of it to rest and pull some long breaths,” says Millicent Arrow- point in the Louisville Courier. *““The girl who is not very strong and the least biu uncertain as to the cause of her weakness will be the happier and better for asking a physician’s IS “befors putting her foot to the peaal, In ninety-nine case out of a bundred he will send her to the cycle school. “It is the anemic, weak-lunged, narrow- chested, dyspeptic woman to whom the bizycle isa very tonic, but she, if having no directions from a doctor, must follow common - sense _in her vractice, and if the first lesson’of a half hour seems to have exhausted her strength, should cut it 1n half, taking fifteen minutes twice in one day and a cracker and a few spoonfuls of sherry when the exercise is over.” 1f possible, learn to ride in one of the ood cycle schools, where one learns in half the usual time and the instructor | shows the would-be wheelwoman how.to use her strength on the g},edmg 50 as to fort a poorly taught person puts forth. A great deal has been said as to what constitutes the dress graceful and con- venient for cycling, but little asto the dress healthful. Now, whether a woman chooses to wear trousers, a short skirt or a long one, let her be sure not to have her stays tight, and if she is slendet aad can afford the extra expenditure, use a but- toned corded waist or a pair of short rid- ing corsets in_place of the long, heavily boned stays of daily use. Thereis no gain of grace or beauly in a small waist for bicycling, but much danger to heart «nd digestion from a tightly-laced body when wheeling. A woman who rides much in summer ouzht to wear with**her loose stays a thin wool underve®t, which #bsorbs the moisture of the body, prevents one FASHIONS FOR CYCLISTS, Correct Garments to Be Worn by Women When on Their Wheels. BLOOMERS NOT IN FAVOR. The Beskirted Wheel~-Woman More to Be Considered Than the Breeched One. NEW YORK, N. Y., June 22.—The bi- cycle fever continues to spread and woman and fashion more than ever turn the wheel. Not a week passes but there is something new in bicycle toggery, and this time the new thing is in the shape of’a material called ‘“‘Russian:crash,’’ that has the loose tufted weave of Turkish toweling, and, in the shade most favored, the tint of earth. Indeed, “‘dirt color” is the name by which’| the most modish shade of the crash is known;. and it is warranted to stand water as well as’ dust. and when made up. cor- rectly, with the most careful tailor finish- ing, it is very effective. A divided skirt and Eton body is the model usnally chosen for the Russian crash, which is said by those who have given it a trial to be as | mild-eyed rabbits and grasshoppers to be she seemed as cool as a cucumber, though it was a broiling hot day, and all the other wheel-maidens,” even those in the skirts and shirt-waists most worn since the hot weather began, looked as warm as peonies on the sunny side of a garden wall. Of all the models offered, and they are many, bloomer cycle suits are least in fa- vor. Except as necessary adjuncts to the skirt costumes and the divided skirts, un- der which they-meed to be worn as well, bloomers have but little sale in.New York. In country lanes, where there are only offended, they are sometimes worn; but in town they are kept very dark, being confined to ladies who have theories on woman’s rights, and who find a bloomered way the easiest in which to express them- selves. The wherefore of their unpopularity is obvious. Bloomers are not only not co- quettish, but hideously ugly and unbeocm- | ing, and happily shé is a rare bird who, for the sake of a doubtful privilege, is will- ing to sacrifice her charm. The divided skirt, which astride the wheel can scarcely be distinguished from an ordinary skirt, seems to allow all the freedom necessary to even the most enthu- siastic cycler. Knickers are sometimes worn, however, early mornings in the park—before all the world is there to see— daring Frenchy little affairs, made much like 2 man’s riding breeches, and with the outside seams horsily lapped. A belted. Norfolk jacket, or a trim box coat, both with skirts that come modestl down over the hips, go with the knickers, which, of course, meet long gaiters at - the knee, and the blouse under the coat will | be either of thin linen or soft-tinished cot- | ing, gathered on the highways and byways of cycledom, are as follows: Before the world fat ladies are wearing skirts with tails; the gathered divided skirt model is better for wash materials than the pleated one; black canvas gaiters catch the dust and hold it; leather gaiters are hot, but those in Jersey cloth are hot- ter. Canvas is coolest. The best veils are the meshed grenadines; the best glovesare those in wash leather, that without open- ings draw loosely byer the hand; and they are only novices in the noble art of cycling, it is said, who wear high heels. A neat wheeling’ shoe, and one thatis comfort- able as well, is’ @ low affair in two pieces, being seamed only at the heel and down the toe. It is made in all shades of russet leather, has a flat heel, a pointed.toe and a sole as flexible asa glove. The latest,thing in ties'is a long, narrow four-in-kand in black satin that i1s much worn'with shirt waists; it reaches from neck to belt, where the end is loosely tucked in. A word in favor of ready-made bicycle suits. If one is neither too long or too shur& too fat or too lean, they can easily pe fitte at the best stores. All the big snops ko cycle suits now, the natty accessories as well, and besides being wonderfully cheap some of them are really charming. Their good looks are not always warranted to last as_long as those of a costume made to order, but things made to order cannot al- ways' be afforded, and cycling is not a sport to pass by for the simple want of a dress. Here are some of the best things to look out for: Divided skirt and Xnnggacken Materials, Scotch cheviot in mingled reds and browns, THE MOUNT AND START. ton, these, by virtue of their good washing qualities, being accepted as the best sum- mer materials for cycle waists. Butthe beskirted wheelwoman is more to be considered here than the breeched one. These mannish little knickers,. at- tractive though they are on the right fair, plump maid, have not yet found woman- kind at that point where they are willing to drop petticoats entirely. There are two sorts of bicycle right sort and the wrong sort. sort- is_either long enough to amase itself | tching on the pedals, or so short that breeches themselves would be decenter, too wide or too narrow; and this kind is usually fashioned at home or bought ready made. The right sort bears on its face all the marks of a_garment favored by heaven and a good tailor. It strikes a pair of inches and a fraction above the ankles, and is seant ut the top. One good model has the placket at the left of the front gore, be- | silk lining; price, $18. brown china silk lining; price, $30. Un- commonly cheap and handsome. Snit of short skirt and half-fitting short jacket. Materials, blue and white whip- cord (looks like denim) and silk linings; price, $25. Styiish and youthful. Suit_of divided skirt and Eton body. faterials, dust-colored alpaca and china Cool and cheap. Niva Frrcu. | From green to lavender.—Revue de la Mode. ~ | from taking cold, and is the conlest, Tight- | est garment for wear under a percale shirt | waist. *‘Never when wheeling garter your stock- ings with elastic bands above the knes,” ¥s an experienced cyc “Use long elastic hose supporters, fastened to the success in the same manmer, pink ol dia silk and white chiffon heing used. Materials can be so beautifully cleaned nowa that any fine garment when out of date can alw; be used advantageously as a rule, made of tortoiseshell, with a diamond or a ruby or a sapphire, or a combination of the three stones, alter- nately decorating the points. The handles the simplicity and severity of the coat and A Iodel Costume. skirt regime. A good little dress is made of light brown diagonal tweed, with a full bishop sleeve, gored skirt and short coat. The suitis cool as meat. It is sold in all the big shops by the yard, but as yet there are no ready- if brushed and i are made to match of tortoiseshell, with | jewels set in the top. As‘these may be | considered extravagant, let me add that crystal handles covered with a trelliswork of gold are to be seen, and.even Dresden ones are tolerated, as shey possess a rm of their own. Some of the new | ade of Chine silk, unlined mmed; others, again, show tiny pleatings of cLiffon on the 1inside. These are, perhaps, the most becoming when open. In truth, however, they are clumsy when closed and heavy. to carry, making them more fitted for carriage use than any other. When faving a Caine or_shot silk gown made purchase suflicient for a para- sol, as it is the thing to uave them match. Lovely frocks are being made of em- broidered lawn or open-work batiste, with the bodices cut in the pinafore fashion. | These all have a lining of shot silk when | the wearer can afford 1t. Do not have your new gowns made with long sleeves. The elbow-sleeves are cor- rect, with long gloves to meet them. : Evening gowns—the latest—are bein shown with sleeves which have diminishes in size, and many predict that after the enormous ones we will immediately adopt liest possible. Many of the newest scarcely the outside of the shoulder- int, leaving the skin bare beneath. This style, and one to be avoided. Every dress nowadays has its own cape of the same material, when such wraps are trimmed with great quantities of lace. A | useful little cape is one made of blue and n siiot-Chine silk lined witn a shaded silk, affording a pretty contrast, and em- broidered about the yoke with black and gold. This can be worn during the after- noon or evening, and harmonizes' with many colors. 2 $ Caricule crepon is 2 new fabric which promises to have a creat success. A gown of this is described as being embroidered on the bodice with moonlight ‘beads and, what is quite new, Jight silk sleeves worked all over with broad black braid in a bold, open pattern. Braiding promises to be much in demand. One of the daintiest novelties is a certain “silky crepine.” It is a crimped cotton fabric with printed floral dmfi"s in colors, and makes the prettiest of blouses, being equal to silk in appearance. The crimped stripes are in _some_cases intersected with narrow insertions of the material, but the patterns are varied. For instance, we may choose a ground powdered with tiny single blossoms, with bouquets or with sprays of a larger flower—the palest green show- ered with brown and green violets, a cream ground with pink blossoms and a faintly tingea crepine strewn with mauve petals. J;fionus continue in such favor as to aimost exclude all other bodices. An ideal dinnerone is composed of while crepe with three bands of black velvet back and front, covered with an appliqueof white embroid- ery puifed, the sleeves full to the elbow, 4 biack velvet band round the waisf. The princess dress is, without a doubt, shortly to be in vogue. Mme. Bernhardt and Mile. Bartet are now wearing, in their respective roles, some wonderful gowns cutin:this fashion. Mlle. Bartet wore 2n evening costume in L'Ami des Femmes which.is worthy of description. It is en rincess of a rich amber silk with the oben princes 1 er silk w like Madeira work, so that the 3:3‘:’2:{51 beneath shows. The sleeves ber chiffon. A-bouquet of poppies :figg‘:an;ne tone is introduced at the side of the low square bodice. This gown met with approvai in Paris and_in"London. Theater-goers accustomed to Ellen Terry’s charming toilettes are enthusiastic over Bernhardt’s gowns, which are marvels of artistic beauty and offer additional ex- amples of the great actress’ conviction that the finest productions of the needle iuud cherries, | present. refully laid aside until the proper occasion arises for cleaning or dveing. Panama hats are very charming this season, trimmed with ribbons, wings cherries being popular at They are used in little bunches | each side of the coils of hair at the back. | Cherries are also to be found on white hats lined with a bright tartan plaid. Another I like evi coating of shot bine and gold. throughout with silk &nd handsome t it may be closed ina moment when sired. A smart little coat has just appeared. Tt better isofa fancy The skirt is full and gored, tne coat short and lined finished with buttons and buttonholes, so Skirt of white flannel.—Der Bazar. Tennis costume of striped gray and black flannel. = Collar and belt of lustrous black silk. set at intervals all around the brim, to- gether with masses of white daisies or guelder roses. Black wings and white wings are adopted with equal impartiality, sometimes combined with flowers, some- times with ribbons. A very pretty roseate straw hat composed of that soft straw which looks as though encased in chiffon can be effectively trimmed with brown speckled wings and a wreath of shaded pink roses tied with long green grass, the grass standing up erect on either side of the wings. is grass is much used and is usually pinned with paste pins or buckles, and frequently appears on Panama hats with black glace ribbon. The June weddings of '95: will long be re- membered East, so remarkably pretty have they been, and at several the bride’s mother and grandmother, as well as her bridesmaids, sisters and all the female do- mtstics in the house have worn pure white and vhe loom are not too good for the stage. 7 ored ilks have been largely finc? _this qu' for dresses for young owns. The grandmothers were especially andsome, wearing rare black lace to re- lieve the whiteness, while the mothers, if can be made in silk, crepon, serge or any material desired. The front opens, show- ing the front of the bodice or blouse fully. It opens V-shaped in the back, showing the back also,and there are revers there as in front. It can worn with any kind of blouse’ and the new elastic belt is very necessary with it. As fashion demands, this jacket is short, and most of the ordinary jackets have muslin_ or flax sailor collars and cuffs, easily detachable, but the one I mentioned has not, as it is for especially dressy occa- sions. The demand for belts is on the increase. Among the prettiest and newest are those in tan suede, with unique clasps. Doeskin belts, with tne clasps also covered with white kid, are pretty with a white or light colored blouse, and "a broad webbing belt invented by Redfern is said to be a marvel of comfort and ingenuity, making an un- tidy effect between shirt and skirt an im- possibility. These webbing belts are made in all colors, and the large gilt hooks that bottom of the corset, and strap under your | saddle when setting out for anything likea {lengthy ride a little case, holding a vial of | brandy, a skein_of black sewing silk, a | needle, a wee pair of scissors, a square of | court plaster and a small bottle of am- monia.” “Never get on your wheel,” she adds, *“‘untila half hour after eating and never wheel steadily for more than thirty minutes at a time. Slacken speed and roll aleng slowly for a bit before resuming a smart pace. Two hours is the longest regular daily exercise even a-strong woman should take on her safety, and she who: cycles by a doctor’s orders may take an hour every other day, preferably in, the morning, and a half hour after breakfast for steady exercise, drinking a litile milk and eating a biscuit when the work is over. No woman,” she conciudes, “who respects her dignity, her health and the booh a bicycle is, will ever pretend to race or at- to try that for which a woman on a bicycle was not meant by any law of hygiene or good taste.” REVIVAL OF QLD FASHIONS. Styles of Female Dress That We Owe to the Year 1830. If there be nothing new under the sun the same axiom will certainly apply to fashion, as it will to an almost equal extent to cooking. There have been many illus- trious professors of the culinary art from the days of Vattel down to those of Fran- catelli and Jules Gouffe, but, with the ex- ception of the potato and the tomato, scarcely any fresh components have been added to the culinary arsenal during the past 200 years, and, although a multiplicity of new sauces have been from time to time devised, they are in general only combina- tions or adaptations of bygone sauces, and, apart from these, many of the very best are the very oldest. And so it is with the fashions; it is not only the coachwheel hat that weowe to 1830. The *leg of mutton” and the “‘gigot” sleeves belong precisely to the same era, although the mode of dressing the hair varies considerably from"that adopted at' the close of the reign of George IV and the beflnning of that of William IV. . dies at that period parted their hair down the middle, and wore it either in ringlets or in heavy curls, mounting their coiffures with strange ornaments, such as_‘‘toupees,” or very high cones of tor- toise shell, or else with towering bows of ribbon, or by arrays of tall pins, some-. what resembling the. silver skewers used to decorate certain made dishes. The sleeves, however, . are only - reproduc- tions of the 1830 “adornments. Closely copied also have been the wide-spreading pelerines, the gloves, cuffs and belts, but, 1n one important particular fashion in 1895 has refrained from imitating the modes of more than sixty years since; the “ieg of mutton” and the *‘gigot” sleeves were ac- companied by a skirt very highly embel- lished, which was worn short enough to make the wearer's feet and ankies dis- tinctly visible. At present the skirt is per- fectly” plain, but its lenfth entails on the wearer the negessity of holding up her dress as she walks—a fashion which came in, nobodg can tell exactly when or why, but v]vhic, may be fairly qualitied as uni- versal. In the matter of hair, also, the ladies of the existing era decline to_follow the pat- tern which we have already described. A lady’s hair is now scarcely ever parted, and a friz, which of old would have been de- risively spoken of asa “‘mop.”’ is considered as the only eligible form of hairdressing. Yet no one can tell, no one can as much as guess, when the claims of ringlets or even of plainly banded hair may not once more assert themselyes.—London Telegraph, tempt fancy figures on it, however tempted | made costumes seen in it. Suits made to order, however, and com- prising besides the divided skirt and Eton, the under bloomers or knickers indispen- sable to every bi le costume, can be had at a good tailor’s for $40. Other handsome bicycle suits are made of cheviot whipcord, covert cloth and Eng- ish serge. But the serge, together with the alpacas and mobairs offered in the shops fnodt wear, is not advised as a serviceable material—that is, the mohair is not good for rts, in which shape its 'y texture causes it to slip around and blow up ungracefully. The serge, which is gege erally in blue, is not a goed dust-hiding texture. Whipcord, in browns shading from dirt color to serge, is the favorite and most useful material for skirt suits, and the best of them, it is remarked, show a heroic dearth of trimming, plain stitching being invariably the sole ornamentation. Still there are trimmed bicycle suits, and avery cocky little costume of coarse, loosely woven brown linen, lately seen, was charmingly decorated with the same tex- ture in a cool, dim green. The body model was a shirt-waist with a wide sailor collar and deep turn-back cuffs Dressing for a Ride. of the green, and the skirt, which fell a little aboye the ankles and was made to fit like a riding habit about the back and hips, was plainly stitched. The tail of the shirt was worn outside, a neat belt of the green linen with a pointed end slipped through a slide of the same, holding it down trimly. This rig was most effective, but struck the speculative eve as best for country wear, when a little fixiness on the wheel seems less out of place than in the town. " A New York girl wore it in the park and | Sporting Sweater. ing finished there as well as at the right hip by a stitched flap six inches long. At the inside of the side gores two elastic loops fasten over a batton on the long gaiters, this Leing one of the devices to Keep the skirt down. Another is to fasten lead weights at intervals in the hem. Again, a skirt wiil be made heavy at the bottom, and so hang properly, ‘with a leather facing and row after row of close stitching, a silk lining doing away with that ungraceful catching on the knee com- mon to unlined or cotton lined skirts. The bloomers worn under these skirts, since they are at times almost as much in evidence as the skirts themselves, are usu- ally of the same material. Good summer ones for divided skirts are of thin ecru pongee, and a favorite model for both is one that gathers into a narrow yoke at the waist and fastens full at the knee, with an elastic garter slipped through a casing. A pongee chemise is also liked by many, and some wheel women are aiso wearing pongee corsets. One pongee corset that a slim, pretty girl modeled after a short shape, called the Bernbardt, was merely a bust supporter, straps holding it over the shoulder, the front being fastened with up- turned hooks over which the lacing was looped. A regulation corset shape, only much shorter and more lightly boned than is common, is advised for wheel ladies of plumper proportions. s As to outside accessories, gloves, hats, shoes and leggins must,of course,accord with the costume worn. ¥or example, under a dark skirt dight leggins shine out with a fatal bigness, and a trimmed sailor is distinctly out of place with knickers. The most stylish hat for a knicker suit is an Alpine shape,white or mingled straw, with a wide black band. = Sailors, if simply banded, may be worn, however, and they are, without doubt, more sensible for sum- mer, shading the eyes better. The handsome stuff suits have hats made of the same material, Alpine shapes or else a sort of yachting cap with double visors. 5 But these, together with jackets, have all been dmpi)e for the dogdays; a sailor hat with the lightest possible weight and a cotton shirt waist being the two things necessary to the wheel girl’s summer hap- piness. Food Removes wrinkles and all traces of age. It feeds through the pores and builds up the fatty mem- branes and wasted tissues, nour- ishestheshriveled and shrunken skin, tones and invigorates the nerves and muscles, enriches the impoverished blood vessels, and supplies youth and elasticity to theaction of the skin. It’s perfect. Vi 8kin Food, $1.50 and $3, at all drug- MME. M. YALE, Health and Beauty Specialist, 146 State street, Chicago. Beauty Guide mailed free. WE MUST VACATE OUR PREMISES, OUR LEASE EXPIRING, And we have concluded rather T6 SACRIFICE THAN'TO NOVE Our Large and Complete Stock of LADIES’ AND GENTLEME’S SHOES We ask you to give us a call at your earliest convenience to be convinced that we are disposing of our brilliant and well assorted stock at prices never before heard of in this community. DEASY BROS., 875 Market Street. &~ WATCH THE BLUE SIGNS. The most_certain and safe Pain Remedy. In More points on correct wheel furnish- water cures Summer Complaints, Diarrhces, Hearte - barn, Sour Stomach, Flatulence, Colic, Nausea.