The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, May 26, 1895, Page 19

’ THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, MAY 26, 1895. 19 LATEST STYLES OF COIFFURE. One of the most newest fab: called named I like colore: coffee, ¢ popular and one of the | the seersuckers, especially those in dainty ummer wear is the so- | evening shades; some looking like rainbow " Why it has been so | cre{;e;re iascmafiti‘?gly pretty agddare :qr- et i ranted not to fade when washed, and in ot the least idea, as it 100KS | the same breath the purchaser is ‘warned in, and is to befound in | not to have them ironed, as ihat would 1 and yellow shades, being | spoil the crinkly effect. holes in raised patterns, and oc- | This summer the summer girl should be raced with jet. An effective | more fatal than ever, seeing that sheis to t is to make an entire bodice | D€ irresistibly attired, for about all the shot silk sleeves: and skirt, | ions, thereis to be a delightful soft- bodice frequently being cut in the pin- | ness, no evening costume being considered ‘[qui:e the thing which does not have a oke, but sometimes | front of lace, chiffon or muslin. All biue | serge dresses are supplied large lawn | t from neck to waist, and is seldom | collars, edged with mu: or lace. The most choice of these for s especial pose are made of Scotch handwork edg: with real Valenciennes; the design of this lace isa copy of old point. An attractive | collar is composed of muslin, striped with | butter-tinted insertion, with pendem scarfs similarly treated on either side. Nowadays we never pack our trunk for even a brief absence from home without tucking in a tea gown; even if of thesim- ummer silk, with its little muslin ruf- itisalwaysarealcomfort. A handsome | tea gown accompanies one of our most re- cent brides; itis of pale violet silk made | empire style. The sleeves.are works of art, being gracefully draped, showing just the right curves of a well-molded arm; they held in place by straps of shaded pas- sementerie, representing violets; the g | ered yoke is crossed by bands of this | ming, and the long ribbons of water: exactly match the violet tone wh pearsinthe i skirts causes us to be more extravagant than usual as far as silk petticoats are con- | cerned, as they are more freque: isi | ble than before, owing to the d ulty of managing our voluminous skirts. The petti- coats are very full also, but carefully cut on the hips to avoid any apparent increase in size. any of these garme; rectly be described as sumptuo silks, most elaborate laces, ruches and rib- gure in their composition. A halfmourning demi-toilet, and a most useful one, is of black crepon stri with openwork silk embroidery extending in carefully arranged lines from hem to bust, the crepon being cut away to show a | lining of white glace silk. Frills of the silk trim the hem, aud are veiled with { flounces of fine black lace, which again appears upoen the bodice. | { have spoken already of the Chine | flowered silks, but forgot to mention a per- fectly lovely new one with thick ribbed efféct flecked with tiny black and white lines. You can imagine what a dream of a gown can be designed from such a fabric. Trousseaux are always interesting sub- jects, and I want to tell you about the | ridal dress of a dear little child bride; she | e muslin over satin, itely charming, be- ur- 'm a box pleat. This is worthy for at present we have box k as well as the front, and our i sleeves show this adornment, cket now enjoying popular a box pleat from the center has box pleats on either ont. Batiste gowns, pale r-made gown is in a grayish shade lue cloth. The wrists and collars own by golden-brown velvet, while finely cut steel buttoms brighten the neat little %oat. cream in shade, beautifully embroidered, are much in vogue E. They have the | de over v reamy muslin. | ress-patterns cost othing can be daintier { (ol Hhm‘,“‘ Kifi Gown of string-colored canvas, with very full skirt. Bodice of pink-mauve silk, striped with desp mauve satin. V-shaped band of white satin, studded with gold sequins. Bretelles, collar and cufis of pale fawn chiffon; sash and ends in front of the same. Large black fancy straw hat, covered with chiffon, and trimmed with black plumes and paradise feathers. A band of passementeric round the crown. rection of several distinguished names. The invention meets a long-felt want. It is a device for opening and. adjusting um- brellas without requiring the use of both hands, as with the present method. The Habilis frame opens and adjusts itself au- | tomatically, leaving the other hand free. It neither aiters the appearance or adds to the weight of an ordinary umbrella, nor increases very considerably the cost. It consists of a simple light spring, so ingen- iously devised that on pressing the catch | or button the umbrella is released and | ogens and adjusts itself automatically. | The invention is attachable to any ordi- nary umbrella or shade at a small cost.— Satisfied. NEW TO-DAY. (ITYmPAR S E S ONE THING AND ANOTHER. Babes in the wocd—Dntch dolls. Itis said that good musicians execute their music, while bad ones murder it. Quills are things that are sometimes taken from the pinions of one goose to spread the opinions of another. AN EPITAPH ON AN ACTOR. “He played ‘Old Man’ with such rare excellence, Death was himself deceived, and took him hence,” The moralist says: *Every man is occa- | SPECIAL SALE | sionally what he ought to be perpetually.” Then again some men are perpetually what | they ought to be occasidnally. 1 ““Would you take me for twenty?" said a young lady who looked much younger. ““Bless you, my child*” said an_ admirin, 60008, GRAINS OF GOLD. At 20 years of age the will reigns, at 30 the wit, at 40 the judgment. Grand temples are built of small stones, and great lives are made up of trifling events. Of all conditions to which the heart is subject, suspense is the one that most gnaws and cankers in the frame. Complaisance rendersa superior amiable, an equal agreeable, and an inferior ac- ceptable; it levels distinction, sweetens | conversation, and makes every one in the company pleased with himse. e TO AN OLD GUITAR. 11-4 Marseilles Quilts (FORMER PKICE, §4 50.) -$3.50 EACH. -90° EACH. -$2.50 i c | Heavy Bleach(e}r_i Linen Damask. o (ER PRICE, $1.) 11-4 Honey-Comb Quilts (FORMER PRIC I take you up reverence, Although you're scarred and seamy, And nevermore will charm the sense With strains inspiriting or dreamy; Methinks if you w You can’t be, so fancy— I music made by you be & tender plaint for Nancy! Fine Comforters (FORMER PRIC Long, long you've lain in gloom and dust, But maby a memory rou 3 You once were 1ov o ' YARD. “n:! she pl hearts, | bosgi oy oinds e revonssmars, | 34 Damask Napkins__ §y 6 g was de . | (FORMER PRICE, $2 50.) e 5 T envied you a bit ., e You d sweet successes, er lap, I‘.lvs‘pv Dg to her $oft carcases; i ing (Extr $ e e, |08 DMaSK Bapkins %2, D150 c CVERDIER & 0, S. E Cor. Geary St and Grant Ave, S P, VILLEPAR (FORMER PRI | | | Heavy Linsn Huck Towels | | | [ Ten Reasons for Going to Church. “Some go there to take a walk, Some go there to laugh and talk; Some go t seek a lover, Some go there their faults to cover; Some gg there for observation, Some go there for speculation; S there to meet a friend, Some go th faults to mend; Some go there to doze and nod, But few go there to worship God.”'— Anon.—E. L. B., in Quee %y and the muslin looks had woven it. he rage, and the d for Mile. de | the most beau- remarked: *‘the district of Valenciennes must have been ravaged to supply the uantity.” Fouror five dozen of every- thing and_each dozen different. Some of the chemises have deep ruffles of lace; others formed of several rows of insertion, beaded with a narrower lace. Those for g women and pretty | ‘Valencienn trousseau latel 3 | rt for wear | blouses and s ve place to the ul a borate ms crepon for the season. | So much of B de in a number of the | her underclot such as will be g wear, as well as in | The texture is s one, ani the surface effect, espe- | ¥ at a short distance, that of a finished | w3 as skirt of black e figures on al a bright woman _th hing that lled or summer serges are | colorings, the blues rang- most subdued lavender to and powder shades. cellent, and there is wear it. ruffle of w g to any but sides a most | d, for i ses of a really cost a good deal and cannot be than s half dozen times, their ng in absolute perfection striped silks are sold in eno y s for summer gowns and bod: d even capes are made of them. There are several qual and the very thin taffeta are not worth | g, for they crease at once when | submitted to the least pressureand splitin | g mann | were never before so elab- g being too good to use for | rpose. For instance, I have jus heater closk made of pale gray the Lining of which i ne silk covered with white fleur Ik costing almost four times as as the cloth. The swellest theater re made of taffeta silk, with vari- | cate arrangements of chiffon and ng capes and hoods, tying with | Qthers are of brocaded silks, | he chintz pstterns on light | designed of black white-grounded Chiné | eted at the neck with a chiffon t shade and made 'gst , setting in full folds. be warmly inter- fer no protection e silks continue shot mulber: the same s ar e’ N ities shown on our counters here are very pretiy i and so are most of Evening gown of whitestriped glace. A fichx a la Marie Antoinette of :fi[:-fiedga!rfl.i e fril, and iong ends eve caught i the bodicewith a bunch of Malmaison carnalions. Bell of while satin orna- nented with painted butions. | ordinary use were most beautifully em-| broidered. | Her nightgowns are lovely, some having a square or sailor collar of insertion and lace, consequently rather open in the neck; others have a yoke of rich lace. The lace used is said to be at least2X inches | wide for all these tnmmings. The only narrow lace ed; the handkerchi | In this troussesu are several matinees in | whife and blue surah all adorned with the same lace. A white moire petticcat has a deep flounce of cream lace, and a shot | blue and pink moire had an equally hand- | some rufile of black lace. { I spoke in a recent article about bed- | spreads, but this bride has two so different | from any I have mentioned that I shall | give a description of them. One isof the ! finest cambric and muslin with Valenci- | | ennesinsertion let in rows forming a square. | | The center is daintily embroidered and the | spread is lined with pale blue silk, a dee; frill of linen edged with lace falling afi round, and blue sstin bows are at each corner. The other is of alternate rows of white satin ribbon sbout three inches wide and | rich guipure lace, rather wider, the scal- lops of the guipure falling on the ribbon, the whole edged with a deep fall of the same lace, lined with white satin and large bows of satin ribbon, ornamenting | each corner. This fair bride wore a veil of valuabie old English poin was arranged in a com ad given six weeks' labor to thirty-six cemakers. You can imagine the result. Fans are considered the most chic of s from tke bridgroom to the brides- ids. In Europe the older or rarer the ians the more highly they are prized. 1 Panama bats are again the fashion for | unceremonious occasions, trimmed with dainty ribbons and quills, The sailors| | hold their own, the new style beingin | at favor, two bunches of flowersora | ] unch of clover relieving any stiffness. \ an heirloom. icated way and MARCELIA. ! —_— | Attractive Novelties in Fans. { { Every woman admires a truly nrfisfic’ | fan. We believe that, at heart, the most | | advanced of the modern type of women— | the footballers snd the cyelists—have a | | tancy for this mest feminine appendage. | | whilst others readily allow that beautiful | fans are counted among their most treas- | ured possessions. To collect antigue fans | | we need to make quite a study of the gold and silver smiths’ work, as well as the fan | ! painters’. The carv 00, of the sticks bas to be judged, an ve all, the ge eral style of decorati | ness to the purpose and its elegance. In the best new examples, as in the an- ue, the subject on the fanleaf is ce- | ally treated and delicately tinted. Pearly | shadows tone down the colors of the cos | At Mr. Duveileroy’s, Regeut street, we had | lately a good opportunity of comparing | fine old examples with the charming mod- ern ones. and, although the dyresem-dni fancy calls for a different kind of sobject | from that fashionable in old time. yet the | result is as pl z in its way, and | the women of today carry as dainty { weapons as those With which" their gresi- | grandmotbers did_suoch siznal damage | among the beaux of their time. H Tortoiseshell sticks! are most popular, as | they are stronger than mother-o’-pearl | When decorated with fine gilding they | bave a very rich appearance, not = by the pearl; the latter, however, are nfl-¥ silk, | i mired for the most dressy occasions. uze, and net-fan leaves are 21l used; and §i0s i the Empire style are decidedly the | { rage. Atthe same time, handsome ostrich- | | feather fans hoid own smong all | { rivals. ; : i | Quaint decorations promise to be popalar this season. Among these we noticed a fan leat bearing various scenes descriptive f the joysand sorrows of apple stealing. ‘We watch tre delight of the ‘{nys at the outset of the ramble in the orchard, see them enjoying the luscious, rosy-cheeked fruit. On the panache is shown the sequel. | Through the gilded bars of the prison window peers forth the woebegone visage | of the culprit. ebony ground. We have two special novelties to record. | One is the mandolin fan; the panaches being shaped as the musical instrument, and decorated in imitation of it,formsa case for the leaf, which protects it from in- jury. In the same class comes the fan with convex panaches, which inclose en- Costume of light gray alpaca, full godet skirt and Eaton jacket. Fine cream cambric n—its sppropriate- | shirt waist with Valenciennes insertion. Bow | and ceinture of purple and yellow ribbom | complete an unusually clever morning dress. tirely the folded leaf. These sticks are of tames and the brilliance of fower-petals. | ebony, with carved and gilt ivy sprays | clambering about them. 5 No dlimiemresents for weddings and birthdays could be possibly found.—Queen. The greatest novelty in these is the brown glace kid, which is used zlone. and also with patent lesther. Buttoned boots are made with a straight galosh, and there is a great effort made at present to intro- duce toes so pointed that they bave to filled in with cork at the tips. Brides adopting high flaps and-buckles rich white materials for bridal shoes. good aeal of beading and embroidery is introduced on indoor shoes. o The Self-Opening Umbrella. A company bas recentiy been formed with the name of the Habilis Patent Self- opening Umbrella Company under the di- | Julius Cesar. | manded all wid i =% = This is cleverly carved in | ivory, in high relief, and shows well on the The widow’s cap is as old An edict of ows to wear the cap under | penalty of a heavy fine and imprisonment. BRANCH HOUSE, 223 SOUTH BROADWAY, LOS ANGELES. All the London world has flocked to see the late Duchess of Montrose’s pear! neck- | lace, which is being sold for the benefit of the London poor. i 1 | The Sweet 'Odor of Almonds { Clean, pure and pungent, pleases the nos- | trils as the cork comes from a jar of Mme. ‘ Yale’s celebrated Almond Blossom Com- | | plexion Cream. Foryears and ages women | have sought a safe and certain preservative | of the complexion. The sun in summer | d the heat of stoves and steam in winter | make Nature’s work too hard for her. The dust that is always in the air grinds itself | into the sensitive skin. Soap and water | are not enough to get it out and to soothe | and soften the dry, chapped skin. Yale’'s | Complexion } Cream the heat of chapping and fever blisters and | st night and rub it briskly into the skin them. Accept nothing but the real. | ! TONGUE SCRAPER Beacsy Guide maiied free. | ltte or by Bard work. and who would {§| 3, trical Construction and Eepairing Derves and purifies the bicod. Try i | Willdo it. It cleanses the skin and its| gives a satin surface to the suffering skin. | Who Would Be Without a and you will be pleasantly astonished in ¢ your droggist will Dot supply you send the Included, Without Personal ! i s s mon emo |} or Al Kinds. Estimates Given. pores, sofiens the foreizn matter within 1t is good for burns and for any sbrasion. mishes Tooth Brush the morning. There have been imitatious . $1. 0 MMEZ M YALE, Heainasd Extra Charge? in the rear, Paine’s Celery Com- 3 | | i | | Speeial attention given to Sporting Goods and Barber Supplies. REazers, Shears and Enives ground and repaired. 818-820 Market Street Factory—30 First Street. , are the e ariians. 2:’»'.._._..-%: and without, soothes all irritation, cools A single application is effective. Putiton of this wonderfal besutifier. Look ontfor, When You Can Have a plexion Specialis’, 146 Siate 5., Chicago. 1 PRICE - -25c. For those who are ran down by too much | | pound is the wrue ionic. It sirengibens the | | | R S S P, Diacma