The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, May 12, 1895, Page 19

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, MAY 12, 1895. 19 '@‘@‘%\’Fw %omen . Now that so many are preparing to leave for seaside and mountain resorts, not a few are taking preparations to counteract the effects of sun and wina, but women cannot be too cautions in the use of face lotions and powders. Recent chemical analysis of hair dyes and cosmetics shows an appalling lack of conscience in their in- gredients. Out of many samples examined at official laboratories not one was free from lead. Of thirteen face lotions, ten were found to contain corrosive sublimate. ‘Women should use such harmless things as borax in the water to soften it, or a few drops of ammonia, and the best soaps to be had, returning if they must with freckles and sunburn, for these are cer- ly good indications, and in the end the complexions which have not been irritated with cosmetics will last the best; besides, if the general health is good there will not be much the matter with the skin. A famous beauty noted for her wonderful complexion confided to a friend that it was all due to the fact that she had always avoided rich and greasy food, had invari- ably had her full allowance of sleep, and had exercised regularly. There should be quite & boom in trunks this season, owing to the skirts and sleeves. One debutante told me she would certainly have to have two ex s this summer. However, 1 am hay v that the indications are that the skirts will not increase in size; that is, more yards of material may possi- bly be used, but there will be less stiffen- Again the fashion journal announces that immense quantities of material are consume but that absolutely no of any sort isused. Now this FRENCH EVENING TOILETTE. Brocade skirt, with tunic folds, balloon eleeves and blouse corselet in gold net. Belt in white satin ribbon, like the one which heads the blouse, and apparently describes vest JSronts round the guipure bodice. This is edged with a torsade in black silk gauze, to- gether with the accordion-pleated epaulettes. Buttons and crescent in strass. White satin necklet, with accordion-pleated bow at the back. is nonsense, for see the latest Paris papers—the sleeves are positively works of art, but simply huge, and if they have no stiffening must be blown up like balloons. Grasscloth is used for most of them. Fiber chamois has been trying to rival haircloth, but I prefer the latter, the fiber chamois being heavier and warmer, although much can be said in its favor; for instance, it is very wide and costs about 35 cents per yard, while haircloth is so narrow and comes to from 75 cents to $1 per yard. One modiste_ lately sent home a gown the back of which was quite a study, being extended with a number of little_ steels which were run in casings in the lining. It seems as though every one intends to have a pique gown, but if you want to have a gown in the very latest and most exclusive style, Tead the description in Harper’s Bazar of the exquisite costume ust designed by one of New York’s most famous dressmakers. You know she de- signs for the swellest of the Eastern modistes principally. Mada i special triumph ‘‘the colonial dress.” It is made of brown linen; not such as we have all seen figuring as dusters—not A A A A A A A AN AN A AN AN Black Satin Gown for middle-aged lady, with revers and panels of gray satin, edged with black silk fringe. inality and beauty of the gowns, and al- though two of the dressmakers have French names, one and all have been long enough in this country to have become thoronghly Americanized, and their de- signs are the result of the demands of the time and their customers’ taste. To be igi is to strike the keyrote of success ided that, of course, the originality’ springs from | refinement of taste, for that must be the basis. Why can Felix charge $125 for a simple little gowa of white crepon made fora young girl? Why, simply because his idea of applying a few yards of lace was original. No one had a gown conveying that same idea, so he could demand about $50 more than the usual excellent modiste. Take a gown lately planned by one of our clever- est dressmakers here for the seaside, it is of the finest white flannel over white glace silk, the gown is asmoael in its way, the fit and style being perfection, but the but- tons—well, no one else will have any like them, for they are copied from the most exquisitely tinted. shells. In Paris the addition of those buttons would make the gown bring an extra $50. dainty ribbon which encircles the waist. The backs of such gowns have the Watteau fold. Muslin collar and cuffs add much to such a garment. One of the most elegant and fashionable women in Paris lately wore at the opera a gorgeous robe of black veivet covered with jet embroidery round black satin roses almost in relief; sleeves like large bat’s wings sparkling with jet, and jet diadem in the hair. No jewels. Another toilette worn on the same occa- sion, also somber in hue, excited much re- murk; it was a black brocade, with tablier and bodice trimmed with magnificent lace, which was studded with diamonds; these looked like dewdrops. This new way of be rather long over the hips, and the cuffs are pretty when composed of guipure and bands of pale blue satin ribbon and edged with a deep frill of lace. The yoke should be made like the cuffs, and revers of the lace give a pretty fin MARCELLA. When patches'were first worn in Eng- land, time of the first. Charles, they were cut to represent moons, suns, stars, comets and other heavenly bodies, so that a gentlewoman’s face became a lesson in astronomy which, no doubt, beaux were only foo glad to study. Like most other fashions this one meandered on into extremes very speedily until a lampoon described a modish dame in this wise: Her patches are of every cut, }’Qrplrlx:pl)f:sorforsrur!: Here’s all the wandering planets’ sig 3 And some of the fixmf!&n‘n, e Already gummed to make them stick— They need no other sky ! An old book called “England’s Vanity, or God’s Voice Against Pride in Apparel’’ said: “The women’s black patches re- mind me of plague spots and make me think that the mourning coach and horses Our_women are frequently accused of spending more than other women on their clothes. Now Ido not admit this in the least. We have a natural knack of mak- ing the most of everything. Among the Californian women good figures are the rule, not the exception, and that is half the battle, for a woman blessed with a shapely form can wear ordinary garments with a certain air that not the most beau- tiful clothes can impart to_her square an- gular sister. But tempus fugit, and I have told you nothing concerning the many lovely things appertaimng to women which I have seen or heard about. Now the most noticeable thing this summer will be the preyalence of white on our clothes. It will not alone be a case of white facings and white linings, but the newest of blouses are made of white mus- lin, lace and chiffon. Serge and tweed dresses have large muslin collars turned back upon them. Nothing is prettier than this touch of white on dark gowns. Odd, is it not, how the most extravagant styles are invariably the most becoming. A few days ago I saw a charming blue serge frock with a deep collar of cream-colored Cape in pale fawn box cloth, lined with cream Duchesse satin; stitched edges. Handsome tea gown, composed of a rich striped silk Duchess lace and chiffon. ribbons adorn the waist and sleeves. Velve wearing brilliants is effective and dazzling, but as it requires an_énormous quantity of them such gowns will be but rarely seen. A useful gown has a bodice of bright Chine Oriental silk, made with wide collar and cuffsand full revers of brown canvas. The front is gathered in front. The plain skirt haqu well and is taped across the in- side at the back. This skirtis of brown canvas, which readily parts with the dust. There is a cape to go with it, of the canvas fabric, trimmed with black ribbon chiffon. A blue serge yachting dress made by a good house has lapels embroidered in white, and a white cambric blouse is to be worn with it, showing a lining of pale-blue silk, which shows through the cambric. The blouse is trimmed with lace inser- Gown in prairie-green habit cloth. The skirt Zouave (back and front) and the cuffs are of the clgth, the large puffs and the bodice being of shot chine gros de Naples, showing colors in chameleon effect. It is trimmed with cut jet and satin ribbons. There are bows of the latter on the skirt, waistband, sleeves, wrist and neckband. atall. What she uses is the finest linen you can imagine. It is as fine as the most beautiful table-linen. Tke lining is of light or dark-blue taffeta silk, and the skirt very wide and godeted. The sleeves are said to be the great point in the gown, being quite unlike any we have seen, and 1 do hope 1 can obtzin a cut of the gown before long. It has been such a success that the most chic of bridesmaids’ dresses are being made like it. Vogue made an excellent remark a few weeks ago which I shall quote: ““Oneis wearied by continual ref- erences to the talents of Rouff, Randintz, Laferriere, Doucet, to the extinguishment of just recognition of the New York dress- maker. One is led to believe that New York depends slavishly on Paris for fash- ions, standing the fact, to those who are well informed, that the superior New York houses care very little for Paris, make their own models and have a clien- tele that is quite indifferent to Paris. Our leading dressmakers are their own designers. They and their customers de- termine our fashions and are wholly suffi- cient to themselves.”” Then Vogue giveson the middle page of this same number orig- * inal designs from such noted modistes as Madame Macheret, Madame Stauffer, Mrs. Donovan and Madame d’Antricourt, and no one can fail to be struck with the orig- lawn edged with lace, turned down round the neck; the front vestlike effect was simply lovely—all rufiles and tiny tucks of soft muslin. A black alpaca costume is very pretty when adorned with a large collar of white lawn turned down over the bodice. Indeed, everything is invested with a touch of white. Dressing-gowns have enormous lawn collars, edged with lace, and very large sleeves’ turned back with cuffs to match the collar. Effective dressing-gowns are made of pongee, which can be lined with a pretty colored nun’s veiling. These wear well and are easily cleaned. I should suggest trim- ming with strips of cream-colored lace down to the waist, the front being made with a pouch-like effect overhanging the THE PARIS COAT. Periwinkle blue cloth or Bengaline silk, ornamented with large steel buttons, and sailor’s collar in cream lace. The draped sleeves are finished off with a tab, which is stretched over the shoulder and secured close to the collar. New Nightgown. Front has pouch-like effect. tion and has a roll collar. With such cos- tumes goes a new_belt about four inches wide, made of different colored elastic, fastening in front with oxidized hooks and eyes. Bodices are almost all bloused or chemi- setted; they are made in printed taffetas, a kind of cashmere-shawl design is much in demand, but any soft, harmonious blending of colors is pretty. All are orna- mented with black or ecru lace, and velvet bretelles of black, green, cerise, any shade nflor‘dinE a pretty contrast or bflznding well with the silk. Yokes and insertions of fine gray linen, embroidered with white, are quite new and chic. As it is impossible to line thin materials with crin, a lining called gazeline has been manufactured for this especial purpose; it is a sort of open can- vas, pliable and yet capable of sustaining the godets in form. It is placed between the dress and silk lining and a hem of crin is generally added. Chines and glace silks are peculiarly the fashion of the moment. Sometimes these chine flowers in the red-flame tints are thrown on shepherd’s plaid in black and white. I consider them very hideous, but, then, they are among the novelties. étone color, with peach as a brocade, is artistic, the peach color being represented by hya- cinths. Rufiles for the throat are a necessity, if ou desire the latest. One made of lisse, intermixed with satin ribbon, closely pleated with roses at each side, was pretty, and another had a band of black-ribbon velvet for the throat, covered with choice violets. It had three pendent edges, !;inl%ed with violets—two long, the other short. A dainty morningh‘acket for the summer can be made of sky blue crepon. It should Latest Style of Coiffure. and all in black and plying on their fore- heads stands ready to whirl them to Acheron, thoufh I pity poor Charon for the darkness of the night, since the moon on the cheek is all in eclipse and the poor stars on the temples are clouded in sables and no comfort left for him but the lozenges on the chin, which, if he please, he may pick off for his cold.” Possibly Costume in blue royale; bodice braided with green and bronze galon and with sequins. B ted front in blue and green shot tri- cotrin silk, with which the cape is lined; it is edged with thick green and bronze cord. the man thought himself a pretty wit. Others would call him a silly fellow for his pains. . French women seem to have disrlayqd more ingenuity in the disposition of their patches, so that in time one’s character Charming dinner gown of rich satin and guipure, rosettes of velvet of a deeper tone than the satin. could be read by the position of the spots. Near the corner of the eye meant '‘La passionee,” in the middle of the cheek “La galante,” on the nose ‘‘L’effrontee” and near the lips ‘“La coquette.” Although we find no mention of Frenchmen having adopted the fashion every dudish Eng- lishman had his patches. Glapthornesays: “Look you, signor, if it be a lover’s part vou are to act take a black patch or two. icnn furnish you. I will make your fuce more amorous and appear more gracious in your mistress’ eye.” Political women showed the party to which they belonged by the same means, the Whig ladies spot- ting their foreheads on the right hand and the Tories on the other.—New York Herald. *‘But the iniquity of oblivion blindly scattereth her poppy, and deals with the memory of men without distinction to merit of perpetuity,” says that quaint philosopher, Sir Thomas Browne. Yet the poppy of oblivion buries manners as well as men beneath its slumber-laden petals, and the customs of our fathers are forgot- ten by our children. From the desuetude into which they have been cast Mr. Wil- liam Andrews of Hull has gathered many old customs once prevalent in the church, and under the title of “Curious Church Customs” (William Andrews & Co., the Hull Press, Hull), publishes a book giving some account of the more peculiar. Every subject is dealt with by an authority, and it is needless to say that each paper is of engrossing interest. In her history of church bells Miss Florence Peacock tells us that it was once the custom to ring peals from church steeples on May 29 in memory of Charles IT’s escape at Boscobel ; another day of general bellringing being the 5th of November. But in the hurry of existence we forget these gracious memo- ries, as well as the announcement of Shrove Tuesday by joyful carillons. Nor are we sufficiently simple-minded to believe that the ringing of the church bels will allay the violence of storms as did our forefath- ers, as witness the entry quoted by Miss Peacock from the Sparding church wardens’ Skirt of reseda silk crepon, lined with shot trown and blue taffetas. Bodice of shot brown and blue poult de soie, the back and front in tiny full box pleats, trimmed with handsome guipure insertion. Balloon sleeves, with bands of guipure round the wristlets. The waistband, with rosette at the side, is also of guipure. accounts—*1519, It'm pd. for ryngng when the Tempest was iiid.’ From church bells to marriage customs is a natural sequence. Englana Howlett, the writer of this paper, suggests that the phrase, “Tying the knot,” is derived from the custom of the priest in the old days of entwining the ends of his stole round the joined hands of the bride and bridegroom, at the words, “Those whom God hath joined together’’; he also says that ‘‘the use of bridesmaids at weddings is of re- mote antiquity,’” the bride among the Anglo-Saxons being taken to church by a matror, called the bride’s woman, a com- any of young girls, called the bridesmaids, Fol]owing in ber train. At a later period it was the custom for the bridesmaids to lead the bridegroom to church, a similar office eing performed for the bride by the bridegroom’s men. In the days of Henry VIII Dame Fashion de- creed that brides_should be married with their hair hanging loose behind, Anne Boleyn wearing her hair in this fashion on her unfortunate wedding day. Mr. How- lett gives so much fascinating information about the/marriage customs of our ances- tresses that it is with difficulty that I can tear myself away from him. He hasmuch to say on the subject of poesy wedding rings; on the frankness concerning the bride and her dowry of the public prints a century ago, and on the times of year dur- ing which marriage was prohibited. He tnges the following from the register of St. Mary’s Church, Beverley; it was written in 1641: . When Advent comes do thou refraine Till Hilary sets thee free again; Next Septuagesima saith thee nay, But when Low Sunday comes thou may; Yet at Rogation thou must tarrie, Till Trinitie shall bid thee marry. With this frequent ‘“closed time” for marriages fair woman could not afford to be capricious when affairs had progressed as far as naming the day, and even when the month was selected popular supersti- tion found her in her choice of day, ac- cording to this thyme: i e r health, Wedncaday best day of alh Thaursday for losses, Friday for crosses, Saturday no luck at all. OHARACTER IN FINGERS. How a New York Saleswoman Foretells a Troublesome Customer. “Now I'm in for it; Ican tell by her fingers,” said a saleswoman in a glove store in the shopping district. The remark was made in an undertone to another saleswoman as a customer took a seat and removed her gloves preparatory to a fit- ting. The saleswoman turned to the cus- tomer and said pleasantly, “What can I show you, madam ?” ‘“‘Gloves, of course,” came the answer tartly. “You don’t keep anything else here, “Yes, I beg pardon, we do,” returned the saleswoman amiably. “We keep a lovely line of silk underwear for ladies, and also stockings.” . ““Well, I want gloves,’” said the customer in an irritated way; ‘“‘a‘pair of three-but- ton pique-stitched gloves.” “What size and shade, please?’’ “Butter, with back embroidered in black; number six and a half.” The gloves were produced and then came the tug of war. The shopgirl patted and coaxed, and finally pulled without making much progress. On those gloves wouldn’t 0. The customer got red in the face, and nally said impatiently: “New in the business, aren’t you?"’ “No, madam, I've been at this counter three years, and I think if you’ll let me try a seven on you—"" “Seven! Seven! Are you crazy? never wore a seven in my life. It'sim- pertinence in you to suggest to me what number of glove I shall wear, and if I did my duty I'd report you.” I beg your pardon,”’ said the girl. “T’ll get these on in time. I was merely going to suggest that every one nearly takesa half size larger in these gloves. There, now it is on. Shall I put on the other?” The other was put on after another great effort on the part of the saleswoman, and the customer sailed out. The saleswoman turned to a friend, who had dropped in to see her, and said: “That woman’s fingers bend inward and are hard and_stiff to the touch. I have found since I have been in this business that this is invariably an indication of ex- cessive selfishness. A woman with fingers of this description has no regard for the feelings of others. She is usually cau- tious, too, and examines well before pur- chasing, and then she is reserved. I size a woman up by her hands the minute she removes her gloves to be fitted, and when one shows up with fingers that bend in- ward, as this woman’s did, I make up my mind to be thoroughly polite and amiable, no matter how much }'am provoked. “What can I do for you, miss?”’ she con- tinued, addressing a plump young girl, who came in next, threw herself down on a seat, and jerked off a pair of well-worn gloves. - *“Me? Oh, I want a pair of gloves. Tan, |. undressed kid, please, and let them be mousquetaires. Don’t you think they’ll look best with a brown crepon? Oh, my gown is too sweet? Say, you just measure and see what number I take. What? Six and a quarter? I used to wear sixes.” \\'hi?e the saleswoman was slipping the gloves on the short, })lumlp fingers the girl chattered on about her clothes, where she was going, and her family history, and as she received her parcel from the sales- woman she asked : “What is your name? I'd like to ask for you the next time I come in here.” As the second customer left the store the saleswoman resumed : “Dear, little, impulsive’ thing! I knew it immediately. Those short-fingered peo- ple are usually quick and hasty. Some- times they get angry, but they always make it up before leaving the store, and as a rule are the easiest customers of all to wait on. They are very full of vitality, and are in marked contrast with my lady with long, tapering fingers. She is very careful about little things and possesses fine tastes. In fact, the long-fingered lady is commonly w®sthetic and matches or con- trasts gloves and gowns with the greatest nicety. Sheis eften over-sensitive about her appearance, and while we are not both- ered by having to make suggestions, she is as a rule pretty hard to please. A woman who works does not havé to tell it to us. The tips of her fingers and her nails give this fact away by spread- ing. Sheis a pleasant customer, though, and attends strictly to business when she comes in. Of course she hasn’t much money to spend, so generully has made up her mind beforehand what she wants and how much she wants to pay for it. She comes and goes in a hurry and has little to say. “The customers that are most easily managed in our business are the ones with Jastic, flexible fingers that bend far back. We find that their minds are as capable of being bent as their digits. They are apt to be adaptable in their natures, and, of course, are easily influenced. It would never do to let such a thing get out, but, do you know, such people are fine subjects for off styles and colors? and itmust be admitted” that the woman who under- stands human nature in this business takes advantage of this fact and gets off many a pair that would either have to be carried over or returned to the factories.” —New York Sun. LOVE AND I, Once I found love sleeping And caged him with a smile; “Now that I have eaught you, You must stay awhile.” But he pined and fretted, Sighing ceaselessly, As he beat against the bars: “Give me liberty.” Touched by bis lamenting 1 set wide the door— Out he flew and vanished Ana I was as before, By my lonely hearthstone Bitterly I wept, ‘When the twilight's shadows ‘hrough the door love crept. «Though I die when prisoned,” He whispered, “Yet when free— Woman, heed the lesson— I straight return to thee.” MABELT. J. Exciting but Harmless. “Help! Help! Police!” screamed Front- room, excitedly. *‘There’s a riot in the next room.” 3 “Qh, pshaw!” said the landlord, putting his head in the door. “That ain’t no riot. There’s two musicians in there discussing art.”’—Chicago Post. Instead of an engagement-ring, the Japanese lover gives his sweetheart a piece of beautiful silk for her sash. La Freckla Is Mme. Yale’s infallible cure for Freckles, Tan and Sunburn. Tt is the only remedy ever compounded that will remove freckles ogzrnpleu; y and surely. ‘he fairer and more delicate the skin, the more likely it is to freckle and the worse it will look after it is freckled. Thousands of women, otherwise beauti- ful, are disfigured by these unsightly, brown blotches. Nothing will hide them. They are a source of misery, but they can be cured. La Freckla isthe death-warrant to freckles. The preparation of La Freckla is one of Mme. Yale’s greatestachievements. There are many imitations, some of them very dangeroua and hurtful to the skin; none of them really effective. For safety and ce.nmng, insist alwsfis on getting the gen- uineand -original La Freckla. Price $1 at drugstores, or by mail. MME. M. YALE Health and Beauty Specialist, 146 State St., Chicago. Beauty Guide free. £y NEW TO-DAY. (TP burtain Department. 50 pairs of IRISH POINT CURTAINS, $7.50 Per Pair. In 4 and 6 pairs lots, former price $10, to close at 150.pairs of IRISH POINT CURTAINS. (Good value at $6350), to close S5 OO Per Pair. 250 pairs of NOTTINGHAM CURTAINS, Heavy Guipure effects, 3&/; yards long and 54 inches wide, great > bargain, to go at.............. 81-20 Per Pair. 300 pairs of NOTTINGHAN (URTAIN, SL.75 Per Pair, In Brussels and Guipure patterns (value $2 25), to close at...... Your Choice of Our Entire Stock of NEGUS TAPESTRY PORTIERES, $4.50 Per Pair. All new and nobby patterns (former price $5 50), at....... Handsome Lines of Satin Derhy Portieres, $6.00 Per Pair, G.VERDIER & GO, 5. E. Cor. Geary St and Gract Ave., S, P, TILLE*PAR BRANCH HOUSE, 223 SOUTH BROADWAY, LOS ANGELES. OLDENRy FBazit DON’'T ! ! BE SURPRISED WHEN YOU ABSOLUTELY PURE FRENCH MIXED CANDY FRESH DAILY 35c per lb. On Saturdays 30c per lb. Having secured the services of a SUPERIOR CANDY MAKER and using only the BEST MATERIAL in the manufacture of OUR CANDY, we can Jjustly claim it to be “AS GOOD AS THE BEST.” TRY A BOX. Duvis~ In latest colorings (good value at $7 50), to close at. WHALEBONE. PACIFIC STEAM WHALING CO.\!PANY‘& Genuine Shell Whalebone “Orea Brand. Specially Prepared and Selected for the DRESS G0ODS AND CORSET TRADE. All Sizes. Every Package Guaranteed. One trial will convince you of its merits and superiority over all other brands in the market. LADIE See that your dressmakers do not use inferior grades or substi utes. NONEEQUAL T0 OUR “ORCA BRAND.” Never breaks, most elastic, lasts longest, cheaps est and bes! For s:l:eb; all the leading dry-goods houses Office and Factory, 30 California Street, SAN FRANCISCO. NEW WESTERN HOTEL. EARNY AND WApHINGTON STS.—RE- modeled and renovated. KING, WARD & CO. European pian. Rooms 50c to $1 50 K:r day, $2 0 $8 per week, $8 to $30 per month; free baths; hot and cold water every room; fire grates in every room; elevator runs all night.