The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, May 5, 1895, Page 19

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, MAY 5, 1895. collar is adorned with rosettes of silk on either side. French batiste so fine as to resemble 1 in texture is printed in a number gns and is very popular. All women are interested in having the daintiest and prettiest household linen, so I will describe some very beautiful quilts, One, in cream linen, has a design of dahlias and grasses interspersed with ribbon and a large monogram in the center worked in pale rose flax and is effect | edged with a full frill of rose lawn. An- ow pattern in ms appear to have been The leather-tinted und in black open 'n@i!_h‘:')'! ood in every night to dinner,' jand th all or sitting-room table well | supplied = *h newspapers and the current ! magazines or weeklies, will fill every de- { mand o tie sober-sided mind. Where there are young people the case assumes more serious phases, but if the | country house boasts grounds of anything | like generous dimensions and the weather proves kind and clear, a great deal can be | | done in the way of entertainment with ont- | ! door sporis. | Garden golf, for example, a new game to | America this year and not very long played in England. "It was invented particularly for persons who had no grounds for the regulation links or no liking for the heavy work of driving over a long, rough course. Girls in the freshest of afternoon gowns, leghorn hats and French boots can make most charming picturs nd sport at gar- den golf. The course is laid out on the lawns and among the flower beds; the balls are light and the clubs scarcely more | than pretty lacquered canes, but the in- aspect of van- | lace, showing | called Ramags allowed to open a contrasting | - 3 h jet per-| requently re- | ded to as “‘peram- | * but as * New York st | es and carnations embroid- ades of goldem amber, s and greens on amber w-cases and sheets are ex- ne, much Mexican open work g them. For instance, sheets may eral inches of this work nd a tiny rufle. The pillow-cases . and when the open work extends cases the pillows should be her with silk or sateen, in a perfectly harmonizing with th ws in the bedroom. One it bed as being unusually pretty, had place of the open work an embroidered ¢ pBYE o e ack and biue shot glaces are one lace scarf, the ends for he shoulder. A naw nged with checked ribbon | ide, and there was a novel | Frock for Little Girl.—Faun ribbed fancy | cloth, trimmed with rows of marrow green | braiding upon the yoke, deep collar and hem | of the skirt. design of pond lilies with ribbons, another showed some white orchids, and the sheet was scalloped along the edge. I consider the all-white embroidery the m?stl:%g-r%pri?t_{ and effective. s n 1730 the following canons of weméaid down: e 31 bomty 1. Everything which alters or disfi; nature proceeds from false taste. e 2. Everything which forces nature be- yond its due bounds proceeds from bad | taste. 3. Everything which eclipses the beauties and exposes the defects of nature proceeds fmmEtnm ?1‘ t-ste.h 3 4. Everything which constrains natu: and hinders freedom of action pruceeéz from depraved taste. and make efective w. summer dresses, the colering bei illiant wn embroidered in the z back on shot old and floral e with well covering pat- tation of taste. . 6. Everything which is out of character is entirely out of tast: MarcELLA. S asgpe AMUSEMENTS FOR SUMMER. Every woman who is blessed with the natural sweet instincts of hospitality and ned a side flap from the waist, bordered | 3 c0untry house boasting one or two spare a ribbon. This i to be a becom- | Tooms probably has under consideration yle for a large fizgure. | just now a list of friends and relatives she very effective blouse is called the | wishes to entertain during certain weeks of sailor blouse,” of soft fizured satin or batiste, ornamented with & sailor coliar | gy oo gg.me,‘_cibm s ‘_.Ze:dennf; col “‘ | sl_;gis speculating a _Xime anxiously on Eitber black or white can be bad East, but | devices fof the eccupation and amusement of her guests. It is not sufficient to offer the black has not yet arrived here. The frill down the center is finished in asimilar | them merely good beds and food and the daily rounds of her own home life, says a manner, and thereis a full eollar of the | writer in the Boston Globe. material, in pdvkl'i'tiongoto the nil?rhon;,‘ hich is detacbable. Some shirts of hand- | " FES Tome French checked silks, in charmingly | W here the visitors are middle-aged and combined coiors, have the fashionable | quietin their tastes, this isno great task. Norfolk pleat of black velvet, studded with | An afternoon drive, a shady piazza,a pretty buttons. The cruch velvet | luncheon or two, some one nice from the e natural color of generally painted. n f d outlined e intended <and the galon b jewels of a A simple Twred Gown relieved with velvet | revers and cuff-. skirt, each breadth being so cut that it | . the Broderie | k, is apparent. | t tea colored at is called “the t I have not versal; thev are sprigged ton, while mus- ue on to net,and | is much raised, | very pretty ed tly for e arn s 3a. o 5. Everything that loads nature with | ture of mother-of- superfluous ornament proceeds from affec- put tennis out of favor. But the head of the~house with young ople under her roof does wisely to eave a great deal in the selection of amuse- ment to their own taste and copy the ex- ample of a rich woman who owns a most popular country house outside Philadel hia. Every morning, on a big black- oard, that hung from a post on the wide veranda, she wrote out her plans for the day’s amusement. The hours for meals were given, then a scheme for morning diversion, the afternoon’s entertainment, and what she had on band for the evening. On a shelf by the board lay a chalk crayon and eraser. As the guests came down to breakfast the bulletin was ex- amined, the dpropuse«i occupations for the | day diseussed over the meal, and whatever | featur, some preceding day’s programme | they wished repeated they substituted, or added as amendments to the hostess’ sug- gestions. On this bulletin, also, those who wished to drive, or wheel, go boating on the i walk, run into the city, spend the orning in their rooms, go calling, or felt at leisure to join anybody in any scheme for fun, stated the fact in big chalked let- ters on the black face. | The bulletin board became the center of | amusement and attraction, and a carefully | kept record proved that the popularity of | forenoon dances neve waned. With | breakfast between 3:30 and 10 o'clock, | { dancing began at 11, lasted until 12, and with luncheon at 1, left the youngsters happily weary and willing for afternoon | drivesand boating and strawberry teas. | Lawn theatricals were improvised for special afternoons by this versatile hostess, and proved so successful that they will be DESIGNS FROM PARIS. terest mone the less for this miniature practice of a game that has so effectually good example of exactlythe kind of dress we are wanting now. The skirt is cut in the extra | full style, which i the mode that will withowt | doubt be adopted. It is composed of fine faced eloth of the mastic shade. The bodice is of the new chine silk, the ground mauve, with a multi-colored cashmerian design. The meck band, cufs and straps down the back are of violet veivet, edged with a gold cord, and a galon with a festoon of gold and jet. On the | Front, which is full, there is a bid of lace, the design in gold on a white foundation, beneath which is a large bow on the bust. The skirt Bas a wide boz-pleat in front, and there is an accompanying cape of the cloth lined with violet, showing through the almond-shaped holes cut in the cloth, and finished with an applique of the same trimming. It is admira- A seasonable gown of the latest fashion is a played often this summer in the gardens everywhere about country houses. Another feature of her list of summer entertainments was a charming statue erman. By secret arrangements, all the eminine guests were asked to come in the | classic draperies and filleted headdresses | of Greek and Roman women. The men | were not let into the secret or into the; drawing-room until the women slipped in | by a long back window and ranged them- | selves about the four sides of the room in | the poses of the heroines and goddesses | they pretended to represent. i The tablean was charming, the fayors | were imitation antigue bracelets, girdles, | fillet ribbons and gilt coins, and at inter-| vals during the dance the women grouped | themselves in graceful postures to the ap- | lause of the men and the chaperones. | The hostess who this summer will rent | or borrow a couple of women's safety cycies | jand let her guest experiment with thema | few mornings will confer a blessing on the | girls of the house party. S { CARELESS, Couldst thou but keep each noble thought Thou fin words astray, ! With quiet then thy night were franght, } With glory crowned thy But thoa too {dly and too long From bower 10 power hast ranged; And nature trified with, not loved, Wl be at last avenged. With pleasure oft, but ne'er with awe, Thou gazest at the ski And from thy lips all zephyTs draw Their amplest harmonies. H Beware! the hour is coming fast i When every warbled tone That brims our hearts with joy sheil yield No sweetness 1o thine own. | AvEBEY DE VERE A S Taking an Interest. Woman pays a higher price than man for publicity in any form. “Men can afford to be more indifferent to the world's | tongue,” says Middleton, in The Queen, | ‘‘and, besides, no one dreams of torment- | ing them with the impertinent questioning to which a woman in similar circum- stances is subjected.” One of the most formidable foes a public woman has to combat, and one against which her shield | of natural reserve is often an ineffectual weapon, is the ill-bred, though possibly well-meant, curiosity of the world at large into her private life. People call it “‘tak- ing an interest.” To take an interest in public women and their characteristics natural enough, but to wish to ory into the inner recesses of their private lives, to dig into their past, to ruthlessiy draw aside the curtain they would wish kept closed, is surely a cruel act, and is far too common in a world which teems with kindness. Directly a new feminine name comes to the fore in any public branch—say in liter- ature—the questions at once aris Who is she? What is she? Can you tell me anything about her? The one who can tell anything about her is listened to eagerly—so eagerly that the temptation | | lowed to escape. Girl's Frock in gray crepon, with tucked woke of gray surch. Blouse bodice, with straps and bows of velvet ribbon to match. Hat in gray fancy coarse straw, with insertion of cream guipure. Large upright bows and paste orname attachment is o Philadelphia Tim Aceording to East must be tea—no particle of aroma sh Every care taken to keep the pot closed d utes’ drawing, which e tea-maker allows. pe certainly do not col ute to that end. It may be possible, even fascinating, to dip, ears in a cup of hot water, but so doing will never produce ideal tea. The chain allows the ball to hang within the pot, and the chain en- ables it to be fastened to the spout that when the lid is closed no infinit rtion of the tea’s best gquality can pe. he shears and all other erous devices showing handle: of this end. The reproach of COSTUME FOR GROWING GIRL. Electric-blue cloth, with handsomely embroidered lace yoke and trimming. The folds round the throat are also of satin. . 2. Striped Biscuit Crepon, with yoke of green silk arranged in pipings, with bands of sash tied at the side. N Satin ribbon lace insertion and lace frill. Similar trimming on the cuffs and skirt. to draw on the imagination and lend a | who said “You make soup.. you Ameri-! little local color is irresistible. *“Whisper- | can ladies, not no tea,” is hardly deserved | ing tongues can poison truth,” and in this manner good names and reputations are gossiped away every day. Why should a | allow absurdities of all sorts to gain ground | woman, because she has, by her own in- | dustry and talent, made a name_for her- | gained. Their tea may not be soup, but it | self, be worried with useless and idle ques- | tions by people who only meet her for al few hours in society, and will probably never meet her again? People do not mean to be unkind, but they let their curiosity get the better of them. If they cannot glean the information they want in byways they go to the fountain- head "itself, and probe in a roundabout fashion until the public woman is plagued to death by their questions. She may not choose to tell much, and prob- ably makes up her mind beforehand to tell nothing at all; but to refuse to reply to certain questions gives rise to suspicion, and leaves the impression that there is something in the backzround. Therefore, the hapless victim (especially if there is something in the background) writhes be- neath the torture, and, if she is a nervous, sensitive woman, suffers untold agonies. A literary woman gives the world, in her books, as much of herself as she cares to give. She throws down | no challenge, invites no comment but literary criticism, and why -she should | be vivisected to satisfy the curiosity | of the world at large is an open question. | Why should the peculiarities of public women, their loye affairs, their places of abode, their dress, their domestic arrang ments, in short, every detail of their pri- | vate affairs, be trumpeted forth to the world? Kingsley says: “The past’s our own; no fiend can take that from us.” | Qur present and our future are ours, | too, and ours alone. One woman, hold- ing a public position, lately thought right to change her religion. This act/| which one would have thought a purely | personal affair, evoked so much criticism, and involved ber in so many disagreeable | interviews, that, although not actually led to the stake, she has practically zmflex-m‘lai m lom. It has been often said that all women | love notoriety. Thisis not so. Too often it is thrust upon them by the necessity to earn, and when such is the case surely it is | not an unreasonable request when the pub- | lic woman asks to be allowed to cherish | her one ewe-lamb—the sacrednessof ner private life. | The Last New Tea Ball. The very last design for a tea ball takes the shape of a pair of shears, with a per- forated ball or round box where the blades are usually found. By manipulating the | handle the ball can be opened and closed and the tea removed as often as one likes. The device is assuredly peculiar and is un- deniably new, but whether it is an im- Pprovement on the familiar ball with chain to-day. American ladies have [earned to use the infuser, and use it well, but if they | they will surely lose what they have will assuredly lack the delicacy that is true tea’s essential characteristic. Desire above all things to remain pretty. You remember the pleasant comment made at your weading, ‘“How young she looks.” But how time has turned the tables. The peachy softness has left your cheeks, but, worst of all, that soft, brown hair, of whic! you were so proud in your younger days, now fast becoming streaked with gray. It once seemed fine and silky. but now a pears coarse. It no longer has a gloss. Y; rsists in falling out. It cracks and reaks in a most provoking way. But Yale’s Hair Tonic, A scientific Erepantion. will restore to you the golden, brown or shining black tresses of your youth. It is perfectly harmless. It stood the test of time and will ac- complish just what is claimed forit. There is scarcely a city or hamlet in the civilized world which cannot supply undisputed evi- dences of what Yale’s Hair Tonic has done for ladies and fin_ue.men in restoring their y or faded hair to its natural color, ealth and glossiness. s, Price $1. Also Yale's : Yale's Com Powder, 50c: Yale's Skin $1: the Hindoo gentleman | NEW TO-DAY. (I ZPAR NEWJAUNTY SHOR' - ETS, the Latest Style, from.......... EXTRA SPECIAL! | WASH VESTS in Pique, wo each, to close at. 9 » " 50¢ WAISTS. Endless V VAISTS, from An of WAS ety (Silk Waists, Black and Colored ... 8400 { Prices Ranging from... { Upward SKIRTS. { A Beantiful i SKIRTS ors, from S. E Cor. Geary St and Graof Ave., S B, VILLEPARIS BRANCH HOUSE, 223 SOUTH BROADWAY, LOS ANGELES. 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