The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, April 7, 1895, Page 23

\ THE SAN KFEKANCISCO CALL, S 1895 23 gk PRIM d, 1 found 1 this devotec 1ese worth y last sumn 1 trowels. in the they eft me, another word and 1 ever, for them g nearly du harm or sk wi ing_any one any ¥ good. seems to havea part for brakes and ferns. The ¢ ular p; A STUDY N TIVE VEGETATION < ————— {A(‘: to the air than does any other form of eaf. It is hardly necessary to explain that plants consume from the atmosphere that which animal life rejects — carbon di- oxide. This the primitive vegetation absorbed in enormous quantities. Its sub- stance was like a huge sponge. It became saturated with gases—with force. The ant ferns sank to earth, were covered beneath its accumulating soil and turned slowly to coal, still holding in their hearts the mysterious forces they had gathered from the primeval atmosphere. It is these forces, liberated to-d: n our furnaces and retorts, that give light, heat, power. The primitive tree now keeps tne ma- chinery of a world in motion. The ferns and brakes of to-day still keep up the old economic habit. There is other vegetation all around them, absorbing food nd lessening the supply, of which the Ins require an enormous amount. So v still go on, minutely sabdividing their s, expending no energy in the produc- 1 of flowers, reproducing their kind from spores, and the fern of to-day, like ts ancestors of thousands of years ago, is a storenouse of force that in’ centuries to come may still do the work of the world. It used to be supposed that the fern had no seed at all. Then people began to be- lieve that it had seeds, but that they were e. It was no far ery from this to elief that he who succeeded in finding se seeds acquired the power of becom- nvisible as well. Shakespeare makes Chamberlaine ‘We have the receit of fern-seed. We inyisible.” But the seeds, or more correctly, the of the fern are found upon the s of the fronds. The orders of Filices ounded upon differences in structure e Sporangium. Their positions, differ in different orders. In this enhair, for instance, the germ of the THE FERN TRAIL. ; because they know well that no ge wild an st- power on earth can make th row in city ga oaxed into a half in the heavy air of hothc ens. common delicate as the shy things are, dyi night in the fostering garaen % are the hardiest things known on native heath. You will find the d in the bare rock in some local 1 shing like the green bay trees. Oth- ers, like this maidenhair, grow where the soil is but.a tangle of mossy stems and leaves. They are only one degree the of being than the selves not chiidren of the sunlight. You will find them, usually, in dim, twi- light places and they belong to the twi- light age of earth. If I were to transplant low, bringing it down bere in tangle beside the maidenhair, it ‘0op and grow sickly pale. In the if I were to bring the fern out sere. is the primitive tree. Ere ever rth it was. Itisthe s desire to cover her ink of them as requiring iruit edness. . rank soil. They are to us partand }-ar('r‘l of the tropic landscape, with its | uxuriance of vegetation: but we must not m take their presence here for an indica- iness of Once, wandering ste of black lava-bed in the crater 1o, I found, a mile from any sort of soil, growing out of a crack in the sulphur-streaked floor, a great fern. The neer of all vegetation, it had begun the work of reclaiming this dark waste. A thousand years hence a potato patch may flourish where now but those delicate fronds wave in the breeze. These waving fronds which form their foliage are characteristic of the whole fern —Filices, the naturalists call the y have no flowers, but in no botanical order do we find such a variety of leafage. They may vary in s irom the tiny feather of the delicate Cy topteris to the giant twenty feet long, of the Cyatheacee or tree f the Hawaiian islands. The tech- escriptions of the many varieties gs to wonder over. One feels that is very little of Greek, Latin or Eng- sh left for ordinary use, so much are ¢ tongues used in their description. : bit of maidenhair, for instance—which isalso c m clinging to the fronds of the maidenhair)— is described as having “fronds pyramidal in outline, 24 pinnate at the base; main i inuous to the a]lvical pinnule; 0 "’ etc.—all having refer- to the forms assumed by the dainty foliage of the maidenhair. One can see with one’s own eyes how it grows, but why the fern should produce minutely subdivided fronds, no flowers and no seeds, as we understand the word. is an interest- ing study. It ecannot be understood in a moment. The ferns down in my. little canyon bear traces to-day of the battle they have waged in the struggle for existence. Growing in bdrren soil, mossy, bog%y filuces‘ down streams and in the dark forests, they get the food upon which they live, not from the earth, but from theair. In that early a en the atmosphere was but a mass of rs, the ferns alone could live. They drank in the gases of the earth’s sur- rounding envelope, and requiring large ~uEH]1e_s thereof, their foliage divided and subdivided, sending its growths out in the feather-like fronds’ that expose more sur- | wou lare of sunlight, it would turn | branches, often | 3 diantum, from a Greek word ing unwetted (the raindrops never future plant is concealed in the little brownish, excrescence-like growth on the back of the upper edge of the frond. In others the spores lie along the mid-rib of the frond. The growing fern pushes itself up from the ground like a single green finger, ointing heavenward. I came upon a bed of these fingers in a ravine some since and have been watching h. Tt is a slow process. Even et the tips of most of the fronds are still ed up in_tight little bundles, lookin, ke babies’ tightly closed fists. One that have for a fortnight been watching daily as it unfolded suddeniy straightened out the last kink as I stood beside it this morning and fairly shivered as the first drop of its first April shower struck it squarely on the head. It was a bracken, the most widely distributed of all ferns. _ Some people have a way of speaking of brakes as something different from ferns, but the bracken is as truly a fern as is the maiden In this part of the State it gTows six or seven feet high. I have kuown of the young fronds being boiled and eaten as “‘greens” in some parts of the Wo! and lye made from the ashes of the older fronds rootstocks makes the very | best sort of soap. I confess that it always gives me some- thing like & pang to see the loads of ferns going back to the city on holiday evenings in the arms of holiday excursionists. The | poor green things have so little in com- mon even with modern vegetation. They elong, as I have said, to a past and gone | age, and have no ;rln(:e whatever in our | busy civilization. Before cities were, be- fore fire before the first climbing | anthropoid chattered among its greeneries, | before ~ ax other sort of life hax | appeared on the earth, the kindly green | growth ‘hwm. its work of mantiing the globe. It prepared the way for its grace- | ful successor, the palm; it purified_the rank air and made it fit to sustain animal | life. Tt was the fi pioneer of life u | earth, and now, its work done, its lost descendants hidden away in secluded, twi- | light corners, droop and die when dragged out into the strong sunlight by the chil- | dren of our latter-day civilization. ApeLINE KNAPP. | e Seiener o] NDUSTR} R2rE DT, Tug Up-10-paTE ENG- 4" 11sH TRAMWAY CAR— -~ Although the horse- | car is still the only means of public travel | in many English cities, it has been greatly ; | improved within the last few years. In i | fact, the np-to-date English horsecar can give many points to our own latest electrie- | cars. A Bristol company has made an ad- dmongo its plant of rolling stock which embodies several innovations worthy of imitation. Spiral springs of special design are used, and the motion of the caris bardly felt. The car is filled with a white light, which enables the passengers to read newspapers with ease, = Although oil is used, its maximum efficiency is brought out by the use of a reflector of white enameled iron, which is found to be greatly superior for car lamps to glass reflectors. The car is fitted with life protectors made of spring steel, which are placed close to each wheel and within an inch of the rail. They have been in use more than a i’e"' during which sev- eral persons have iallen on the rails. Had the Trqmwn not been in use the accidents d in every case have resulted in death or serious injury; but in each instance the protector pushed the person off the rails or kept him rolling along until the car was | stopped. The car 1s perfectly ventilated by apertures at each end which allow free access of air without causing the slightest draught. The supply of air can be reduced by a shdin% partition. In the English car the roof is fitted up with seats, which are much used by women and children. A ScrooL DANGEr.—The old slate and pencil have been banished from many American public schools by the school committee. The three reasons furnished in the report of the committee on hygiene and physical training are as follows: (1) A slight gray mark upon a slightly darker gray surface is more or less indistinet and therefore trying to the eyesight; (2) the resistance of the hard pencil upon the hard slate is tiring to the muscles, and the re- sistance to which the muscles are trained by the use of slates and slatepencils must be overcome when beginning to write with pencil or pen upon paper; (3) and last, but not least, the use of slates, slatepencils and sponges is a very uncleanly custom and leads to and establishes vervy uncleanly habits. So in place of the old-style slate and pencil we now have the paper, lead- pencil and rubber for school use. WaaT A Sorprer CAN Carry.—In accord- ance with the instruction of the German Minister of War, Professor Zuntz and Stafl-Surgeon Schumberg have made a ser- ies of experiments with regard to the weight that can be carried by soldiers on the march. Five students of a public in- stitute volunteered as subjects for the two docters, and always undertook their marches in full marching order. The marches were all of the same length, viz.: 24.75 kilometres (15 miles 82 yards); the > weight carried was varied, viz.: 22, 27 and 31 kilogrammes (482-5 pounds 5925 pounds and 63 1-5 pounds. The tests resulted as follows: (1) It was found that with 48 pounds and moderate temperature the man could march the required distance, and even fur- ther, without any distress, or ill effects whatever. In very hot and close weather, slight inconveniences, such as very profuse perspiration, high pulse and hur- ried breathing,were experienced; but these soon disappeared when the march was over. No ill effects remained the next day, so that such marches could easily be undertaken several days in succession. 2) With the next weight (59 2-5 pounds), uring favorable weather no ill effects en- sued, but in hot weather fatigue was pro- duced, which was felt until the next day, so that the second dgy’'s march was begun under worse dlonditions than that of the first day. (3) With the third weight (631-5 pounds) the ill effects produced were decided. " The tests ave distinct and definite results. It was found that several days’ practice with the lightest burden (48 2-5 pounds) caused the carrying of it and the marching with it to become continually more easy and con- venient, whereas practice with the heaviest burden reduced - the inconvenience in hardly any degree. RECORDING ORDERS ON BoARD SHIP.—A new invention for use on shipboard isa patent recorder. This machine is attached to the indicator posts of steam vessels for recording indelibly and at once every order as it is given by the master from the bridge to the. engineer below. While in no way interfering with the action of the indicat- ors now in use, it acts as a silent and ac- curate witness and recorder of every action of the indicator. This device consists of a drum, which revolves once in twelve hours, the motive power being supplied by an eight-day clock. Around the drum is placed a chart, which is renewed at 8 A. M. for the day watch and 8 P. for the night watch. Printed wi hori- zontal lines, which run the whole length of the chart, is a column of all the words of command. The chart is divided and subdivided into hours, quarters and single minutes by vertical lines, and as the space allotted to each minute measures }4 inch, the eye can easily subdivide this into smaller frac- tions of time. Resting on the chart is a metallic pencil, which is connected by a simple mechanism with the existing in- dicators in such a way that it is moved up and down_ by the action of the indicator. The practical operation of the recotder on the chart is threefold: the precise moment at which the signal bell rang is shown; also the time at which each order was iven and what that order was; also how ong each order remained in force without alteration. A D1sTRIBUTING CART FOR ROAD CoNsTRUO- TION.—A most useful cart has been de- signed for distributing broken stone for building or repairing roads. The cart is mounted on four wheels and is so con- structed as to turn in a short space. The bottom of the cart slopes downward to the back, and the tailboard is hinged at its upper edge. The movement of the lower edge and consequent width of opening is controlled by two adjusting chains, and steel wings, which are attached to the sides of the cart at the tailboard, spread the stones full width between the wheels. The cart can be tilted at any desired angle by means of a rack and pinion and held there, and this is found to be a great con- venience in loading. As the stone rolls from the rear of the cart it is leveled by a scraper attached to the bottom of the tail- board, which can be specially adjusted ac- cording to the necessities of the road. This adjustment permits of the stone being spread thicker on one side than the other, or of an extra thickness of stone being laid at the middle, as is usuall; required. The discharge can be regulate s0 as to cover a strip only half as wide as the cart, if need be. A Prize ror A PracticAL FrLyINg-Ma- cHINE.—It is not generally known that a bill was introduced in the United States Senate at the last session authorizing the Secretary of the Treasury to pay the sum of $100,000 to any inventor from any part of the world who shall, prior to the year 1900, construct a vessel that will demon- strate the practicability of safely navigat- ing the air at a minimum speed of thirty miles an hour and capable of carrying freight and passengers. The bill was re- ported without recommendation. The resumed object of the report is to col- ect and define the information that has been gathered on the sub- ject of aerial navigation. The report says: "It may seem somewhat visionary— to seriously entertain the idea of naviga- ting the air safely, since efforts in this di- rection have been in most instances fail- ures’’; still the committee maintains that the solution of the problem will result in one of the greatest social, economical and industrial revolutions in the history of mankind, and will have the greatest pos- sible influence in the civilization of the world. Those who have followed and can appreciaie the work that is bemfi done in t.g)s direction in England by Hiram 8, Maxim realize that the problem of aerial navigation has not only passéd beyond the visionary stage, but has been successfully solved. in ot g England’s Foreign-Made Matches. “An Indignant Englishman’ writes: “Why do all or nearly all of our big cafes and restaurants in the city and West End use foreign-made matches? One takes a match to light a cigarette or cigar, and sees on the box, ‘these matches are manufac- tured in Sweden,® or sometimes it is Belgium? Can’t we manufacture them? There must be and there are plenty of Eng- lish manufacturers who can produce matches as cheaply and as well as foreign- ers; perbaps they can explain this ques- tion. One gets sick .of seeing that every- thing used in this country is made abroad, even to matches. If we can make them in England, why can’t they be used every- where, and not imported in such quanti- ties from abroad? t us help our own country people when we can, and I think we oughf to be able to in this case.’—Lon- don Telegraph. Great finds of gold have been made in Korea and enterprising speculators are al- ready at work there showing the simple natives what real energylis. .| one from the divine pen of the poet, and UNDAY, APRIL T, Paris, March 19, 1895. The new academician, M. Jose Maria de Heredia, although Cuban by birth, is Pa- risian in the truest sense of the word. He is to be found in all the salons where is cultivated what, according to Taine, is “that grand art of conversation,” whicn must become a lost art unless a superior devotion is paid to it among scholars. Al- though elected in February, 1864, to fill the chair of the late historian and literary critic, Charles de Mazade, M. de Heredia will not be formally received among the Forty Inimortals until next May. Then he will be welcomed by M. Francois Cop- pee, the principal theme of whose speech, besides the analysis of M. de Heredia's works, will be a history of the Parnassian group, made successful at the Academy by himself, Tully-Prudhomme and De Here- dia. M. Coppee is now at Arcachon, put- ting the last touches to his speech on the author of “Trophees.” But if in the social world M. de Heredia be a Parisian, in poetry he is thorougnly foreign, and belongs not only to another country but another age. In “Trophees,” he has placed his whole soul, his whole life. He is enamored M, de Heredia. of Greek antiquit{, and he frames it in his | sonnets. There lives again the soul of Theocritus and Meleager. With garlands of epigrams he crowns the heroes of my- thology and the neck of the Centaurs. e has written much about the Centaurs, and | in one sonnet he shows the last of the race. | All his brothers are dead, and the lone | Centaur is ashamed of his solitude—his | singularity. At sunset only he gallops on | the beach, because there hesees his shadow | beside him, and can imagine there are two. In “Trophees” there are some son- | nets which prove M. de Heredia to be a | loving pupil of Dante and Petrarch. Again we find sonnets written in honor of a certain De Heredia who in 1532 founded the town of Carthagena, in the Indies. Among the ancestors illustrious in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries this is the one most revered. The Cubans regret that their poet chooses | the French laxrxfiuage for the expression of his thought. They believe he should write in Spanish and to him they apply the name afrancesado. The Cubans say that his talent comes from an ancestor, another Jose Maria de Heredia, known in every South American country by his eloquent verses on Niagara. But if M. de Heredia is no longer Cuban at heart, he is faithful to the mother coun- try, 8pain, and has translated De Castro’s “Romancers” in verse worthy of Cor- neille. M. de Heredia is alsoa collectionneur, placing in his Trophees the enamels of his allery, and a savant who has writtena ong study on the ‘‘Chroniques’” of Ber- nard Diaz. One of M. de Heredia’s most exquisite sonnets is “Biise Marine’’; in this we see the exotic poet standing on the coast, near- est his 6wn country, inhaling the natal air and listening to the poetry of the conquis- tadores. . M. de Heredia and Leconte de Lisle are the two tropical poets of France. They are often compared and both may feel hon- ored by the resemblance. I think it was |#Leconte de Lisle who gave the best defi- nition of this resemblance. To M. de He- redia he said, “Vousetes un coloriste; je suis un luministe.” The French critics find this definition absolutely true. The author of “Poemes Barbares” is dazzling in style, while one feels that the Cuban poet comes from a country where the rain sometimes gives shadow and where the earth is not con- tinually parched by a brilliant sun. de Heredia always calls_himself “the loving pupil” of Leconte de Lisle, and perhaps if the latter had never existed we should not have possessed the ‘‘Trophees.” But M. de Heredia is a distinct person- ality. He is endowed with qualities for which we seek vainly in the works of Leconte de Lisle. In the slightest move- ment he betrays his Spanish origin. A broad style of painting and vivid coloring are his ideas of poetic brilliancy. And as the past lends itself best to his dream there | is nothing modern in his work—nothing which might trouble the soul and alter the majestic style of his verse. To him emotion in poetry means lack of nobility. In this M. de Heredia belongs to the group of which Leconte de Lisle was the highest vriest. He has all the instincts of a Par- nassian, and it seems strange that ‘“Tro- phees’’ was not published between 1868 and 1880, when the Parnassians reigned alone. But when (1n 1893) the work was published all felt that a poet of the first rank was born to France, . There is so much beauty in M. de Heredia’s poems that in spite of their heroic Alexandrines, in spite of their | solemnity, the mind of the reader is re- | posed and refreshed. He hasbeen accused of repetition; words, such as etincelant, rutilant, blanc, immortel, are continuall repeated, but )‘.iuz isthe fault of the Frenc! language, which is very goor in synonyms. ‘With M. de Heredia, the word precedes and gives birth to the thought. Northern poets write only under the pressure of inward inspirafion, while those of the South, and above all those of Spanish | birth, need the influence of word and image. In M. de Heredia’s writings, we see that he makes no exception to the rule. His sonnets evidently have fallen one by from a lyric river, & mejestic sonorous Rhone. The Rhone, here, .s not the river | which passes by Lyons and Provence; it crosses Castile and Leon. But here Ties | its originality. M. de Heredia occupies an | unigue position in the French poetical | world, because he is as little French as Eossible. and in his veins flows only the 0t blood of a Castilian. BARONESS ALTHEA SALVADOR. The Burglar’s Blunder. A curious story is told by our Vienna correspondent. A young man, the repre- sentative of a large firm, who carried a large sum of money with h)m,.recentlyl spent the night at a_hatel at Pressburg. As usual, he remained some time smoking in bed. Suddenly the burning cigar fell to the floor. He bent over to extinguish it, when he saw a hand projected from under ! The would-be robber was caught. He confessed he knew the occupant of the | room had money, which he hoped to get while he slept. He had been a fireman" formerly, and could not resist the impulse to extinguish the burning cigar.—London Daily News. S R S R PERFECTING THE LOCOMOTIVE. The Improvements Secured by the Specialization of Work. Twenty-five years ago it was generally assumed that no man could become a first- class locomotive engineer until he had passed years in the great repair shops of the country. A young man not only served a long probation as a fireman, but, under the rules of the great railroad sys- tems, he was also compelled to serve an apprenticeship in the shops. His first work here was generally as one of a squad of from six toa dozen men. Under the foremanship of the gang boss he was made acquainted with the structure of the loco- motive. An engine in the shop for a general overhauling offered a field of observation and study for the helper, as he is generally called. A general over- hauling usually meant several weeks of steady employment on one engine. The lo- comotive was first stripped of all her upper works, including the jacket,” when if new flues or a new crown sheet were required, the boiler shop was her first'destination. Here it received such repairs as the boiler- maker could give and was then put upon the transfer table and taken back to the ma- chine shop. There in due time it was prac- tically rebuilt, ’Painted and was thenready for the road. he apprentice during this period of probation saw the process of fas- tening to the boiler the heavy hammered frames. He assisted in attaching the cyl- inders, parallel rods and sidcgars, wit- nessed the difficult and intricate task of fitting the valves and eccentrics, and thus learned exactly what to do in an emer- gency when in charge of aroad engine. ‘rom the erecting floor, where he had seen the locomotive practically reconstructed, the apprentice was transferred to the vis floor, where the various parts of the en, were perfected. Here he made a study of the brasses and wedges and learned the ne- cessity of exactness. Working with men who were experts in their way he learned the mysteries of the piston-rod and the valve, and was made to understand how the wheelpress brought together the im- mense driving-wheels and axles. After serving two years in the shops the usual practice was to assign him as a fire- man, either on the road or a switch engine. Once in the cab under the personal super- vision of an old and experienced runner the apprentice reached ‘the last stage of probation. He began to look forward to the day when he should look out of the front window from the engineer’s seat. In many instances firemen passed many years of hara work before reachinF the goal. The final elevation depended largely upon ability, quickness and judgment, three characteristics always closely watched. There has been a great change in the manner of selecting engineers in the past twenty years. Itis no longer considered absolutely necessary that men should sub- ject themselves to the training of former days. William Buchanan, master mechanic of the New York Central and Hudson River Railroad, who has been connected with the company since 1844, ang continuously employed in the machinery department, says that the chief requisites are sobriety, coolness, good judgment and a thorough knowledge of the road. Few men mnot in the employ of the line are appointed as engineers. They are not required to serve an apprenticeship in the machine shops, principally because of late years men have become specialists. The company in the first years of its existence had eight repair shops, whereas now, with its in- creased traffic_and larfier equipment, two are amply sufficient. In centralizing the work the company has saved money and time, and now has in its employ a com- pany of tried men. Years ago, in” case of an accident to any particular part of the machinery of a locomotive, it was practi- cally impossible to locate the responsibil- ity. nder the present system such aceci- dents, if due to defects, are easily traced to the workman responsible. For in- stance, if an enfiine slips an eccentric, the machinist who does nothing else the year round but attend to this particular part of the machinery is at once located, and is reprimanded if at all at fault. Men are employed whose exclusive duty is setting | out the packing for the valves. Others de- vote their entire time to setting valves. Another man does nothing but file journal |brasses for axle bearings. Another pays his attention exclusively to perfecting and polishing piston rods. To illustrate the nicety to which the system has been brought may be cited the exactness ob- serve%n fitting the boxes or journals of the ving-wheels. Two men are re- quired in this work. One works on the right-hand journal, the other on the left- hand side and at the other end of the axle, and they are never permitted to reverse their positions.—New York Sun. e S How He Wrote ** Chimmie.”” Edward W. Townsend has been telling a New York Tribune reporter something about “Chimmie Fadden.” Nearly eves one of the short stories of “Chimmie,” which are read in fifteen minutes, repre- sented three or four mornings spent, not over his desk, butin the Bowery or the Fourth Ward, studying the character of the people about whom he wanted to write. “There was_one little fellow,” said Mr. Townsend, ‘“‘down at one of the slips. He was the most gerfect Bowery Boy I have ever seen, and I used to go down and pre- tend to sit reading a paper, or to be wait- ing for somebody, just to be near him and hear him talk. I studied hard on three things in particular—the idiom, the slang and the dialect. The last is the least im- portant and the easiest to get. Anybody can get it. It rather hurtsthan helps the stories in my opinion. What I care most for is the slang and idiom. They were modified as I went along and learned more about them. It was hard to get them well, for the people will not talk the same way with a stranger as among themselves. Their most charac- teristic expressions are put off for more words. “No. Ididn’t start out to write a series at all. One story led to another. It began with an_attempt to write a ‘Sunday spe- cial.” Iwas put on the track by a little incident I had seen a few days before. I went up to a mission where some ladies were giving a dinner to tenement-house children and I was to report it. One little fellow near me I notices _fl}lpi down a }aiece of pie in about two bites. The young ady in charge, who seemed to on very good terms with the boys and assumed a pretty air of comradeship, was standing by and saw the pie disap- pear. She leaned over and said with a bit of the boys’ manner for good-fellowship ‘Would you like another piece if I can sneak it?” His eyes brightened. She brought the pie and placed it before him with™ a little confidential whilmr as though it were a fipm favor, of w ich he was not to tell. she did so the boy leaned over and kissed her hand. It must have been the innate gentleman. No one could have taught him. Maybe he had seen a courtier do it on some Bowery stage; but I think it was just his own natural tribute. ; “That was my first insight into the Bowery character, and when I wanted write a ‘special’ I used the people I b: the bed put the cigar out. It made him very uncomfortable. He lay a while, and then, saying aloud, “How very cold; I shall get my fur coat,” he jum out of bed, flew to the door and cried for help. . seen there, making up my own story. The incidents are all ficfitguu!." 1" Brussels will become a seaport, LATEST FASHION WRINKLES Very High Collars and Very Bright Shirts Are the Style. LONG NECKS HAVE THE CALL Men May Wear Fancy Colors to Vie With Ladies of Fashion. The fashionable young San Franciscan | is now as happy as a boy with a pair of | red-top boots, for he is receiving haber- dashery of the latest styles from London and New York. These latest styles will be most satisfying to the dude and the Anglo- maniac, for they have about reached the extreme. A few weeks ago Charles Meyer, the representative of a New York men’s fur- nishing house, arrived in this city and took rooms at the Palace Hotel. It was his fifth annual visit, and when he opened his sample-cases the rich and fashionable young men of this city rushed to his apart- | ments, as he was known to have the very latest styles from London. The haber- dashery ordered there is now arriving from London and New York and the fash- jonables will soon be parading in high col- lars and preparing to don the gaudiest of summer shirts. The latest fashions from Paris and Lon- don are well outlined by Mr. Meyer. The proper thing in a dress shirt is a plain linen or immaculate white bosom, | though some have gone to ordering a fine pique bosom with up and down ribs. In some instances collars are attached to the shirt, but owing to the trouble in laundry- ing some wear a detachable collar. The cuff, however, should be attached to the shirt, that is, it should form a part of the shirt and not be detachable. There should be either two or three stud holes in the bosom of the shirt, according to the height of the man and the length of the bosom of the shirt he wears. The one stud hole bosom is a thing of the past. The collar is now the highest ever worn. The very latest style is known as the Kent. It isa straight high collar 23 inches high in front and a little less in the back. collar laps justa trifle. It is of square form, and gives the appearance of a per- son wearing a cuff for a collar. Of course only giraffe-necked persons can wear the collar. The short, fat-necked man is com- lled to take another style. Even as igh as the style goes one prominent young San Frarciscan, well known in society on the tennis ground and in_the ballroom, has ordered a collar specially made to order that is 2% inches high. Buthehasa neck. There isalso a demand gfor the ‘‘East- wick,” a straight collar two_and a half inches high in front with a slig:t oke at the tip. fi'he ultra will bave to take the consequence of a risk of choking to death by wearing these high collars, so for that reason collars of medium height, witl ‘“dog ears’ on the points, remain the mosi popular, especially with short-necked peo- ple as they are the most comfortable. The “Tavistock,”’ the “Oolah” and the *‘Prince- ton” are the favored of these styles, and just suit a prominent society leader who would suffocate insuch a collar asthe noted tennis-player ordered. The “Polo’ is the queerest collar yet de- signed, but it is coming into great popu- larity in San Francisco. It is really a stand-up, turn-down collar, and looks like The | a cuff doubled and worn as a collar. To be more explicit, the *“Polo” is an extra high standing collar bent over to become a turn-down, and therefore has the appear- | ances of both of the two opposite styles, | When buttoned up it has a very slight V- | opening in front. The “‘Polo’’ is 214 inches 1 deep in front. Itis used for morning wear or for promenade, but never for evening dress. It is modeled from the old Shake- | spearean collar, but is higher. It has been | adopted by the ladies as well as by young men. | The proper thing in cuffs is the plain, | square-cornered or round-cornered links, | the first named being the most popular. | The ultras wear a plain square attached !cuff. In detachable cuffs the latest link | style is the ‘‘Stafford,” which, when but- | toned on the wristband, has very much the appearance of an attached or stationary cuif. The “Stafford” is a simple square- | cornered cuff, with a pointed tab on it to button it to the wristband. The tab came out only this year and is a very clever de- vice. . From all appearances the young man at the seashore or at the springs will be a ayer sight than ever. Colored shirts will Five At freatrin: They will iotGEiSba used at summer resorts, but also on prom- enade. . The nltras will wear a soft finished cheviot with starched cuff and a 114 center pleat in the bosom, white collar, but fancy cuff, the same as the shirt. Plain white pearl buttons wiil be sewed on the bosom. Cheviot shirts with turn-down collar will | be the proper thing for negligee use, with | either a center pleat or four pleats on each side of the center pleat 1} inches wide." The latest materials for colored shirts are the very finest French percales, Madras nd woven linen, the last named being the finest shirting made. The colorings in use are blues of different shades. helio- tropes, pinks and blas Two _colored striped effects are comipg into style again. Some very odd effects are in French per- cales thut have the appearance of watered silk, with polka dot, check and polka dot | and dark red shirting. Spots and neat figured effects in French percales are as opular as ever. pop! Ve In French India. As the evening falls, the lights shine through the little casements of pearl shells and the sound of the guitar or violin is borne upon the breeze; the bell of the cathedral tolls for vespers, and the veiled figures of the women can be seen on the shore flocking to the sacred edifice. It was here that St. Francis Xavier preached; his memory is yet fragrant through the land, | and most of the people still are Catholic. | Presently the moon rises over the Ghats and lights up the distant ruins of the robber fortress, on a lofty and seemingly inaccessible buttress, and throws an ever- widening beam of silver upon the silent tide of the river. Soon the town is in repose and free from all sound, save the challenge of the sentineis each hour, or the bark of the wretched dogs that turn over the refuse heaps for bones and fish offal. The friendship of the French Governor for the agent rose out of an adventure with a panther which haunted the purlieus of | the old monastery on the headland which | served as a country residence for the | former. The brute was the terror of the | household, and destroyed all their pet ani- | mals, but no one was found brave enough | to encounter it until the agent undertook | to “sit up”’ near the carcass of the last | “kill,” and, with the moon in his favor, | gave the quietus to the panther with an | express bullet, | The Governor could never be too grateful, nd his pretty little brunette daughter, in the white muslin dress and broad straw | hat, who had lost her pet rabbits through the depredations, smiled sweetly and ad- | miringly upon the Englishman. Thereafter | he was always a persona grata and a hero {in the small social circle of Selambique; | welcomed to the exclusive “‘at homes” of | the wife of the colonel of infantry, and in- | vited to participate in the arrangement of | the ceremonials and sports of the annual ‘ fete.—The Gentleman’s Magazine. NEW TO-DAY. MR. EDWARD LTI 1f one would ask the neighbors of 205 O'Farrel street, who is the jolly, big-hearted painter living at that number, the answer would be: He is Mr. Edward N. Peterson, whom the children call “Ed” for short, for although he weighs 240 pounds and is sald to be ome of San Francisco’s most foremost peinters, the little children love to romp with the big fat man, because they like him— because he is honest and truthful with them. Many are the tales afloat of Mr. Peterson’s quiet charities and sincere generousness, but the best of men are liable to fall sick, and it was the misfor- tune of Mr. Peterson to be sick. His friends are now congratulating him, and he is congratulating the Hudson Medical Institute. Here is his con- gratulatory letter: “Sax FRANCISco, January 12, 1895. “In view of the fact that what I write may be of extreme value to some fellow-sufferer, such as I myself was four months ago, before applying to the competent physiclans of the Hudson Medical Insti- tute, I wish to state my case in brief: “I have been for yearsa sufferer from nervous prostration, complicated with a chronic inflamma- tion of the neck of the bladder, which made my life one of misery. I tried one physician atter another, and one remedy upon another, but could find no benefit whatever from any of them. “Four months #go, having heard of the good work being done by the physicians of the Hudson Institute, I consulted them and was told that I could be cured. I was satisfled that from the examination given me and the information given me in reference to my case they thoroughly under- stood 1t, and immediately pluced myself in their hands. I have been treating only four months and can safely say that I am entirely well. “1 am satisfied that they will effect a permanent cure in & very short time, for 1km feeling better every day as I go on with their treatment. I feel stouter, sleep better, am free of all distressing feel- ings caused my debilitated nervous condition a8 well as the distress occasioned by the inflamma- tion of the bladder. “I most cheerfuily recommend the physicians of the Hudson Medical Institute to any suiferige as I have. Wil gladly answer any communications ad- dressed to me from any one suffering from a chronic mervous disorder and ng'umuou" EDWARD N. PETERSON, 205 O'Farrell street. N. PETERSON. AT THE INSTITUTE. ‘What the Specialists Are Doing Daily to Restore Health and Strength to Sufferers. Itisan established ruleof the Institute that no incurable diseases are taken. If an applicant is found to be suffering from true cancer or tubercu- lar consumption he Is frankly toid that he cannot | be cured, thongh much may be done to allay his sufferings, but_as medical science has vet failed to discover any cure for these two dreadful maladies, all the physicians at the Institute say freely and frankly that it is beyond human power to remove these évils. Nevertheless it should not be forgot- ten that there are many ices where es have been made in diagnosing these diseases, 5o it is well for all sufferers to apply for help at the In- stitute. ~ All the following cases are curable: Catarrh of the head, ach or bladder; all bronchial diseases: all functional nervous dis- eases; St. Vitus’ dance: hysteria: shaking palsy: epilepsy; all venereal diseases: all kinds of bl troubles: ulcers; wastes of vital forces: rheuma- tism; gout; eczema: all skin diseases, from what- ever cause arising; psoriasis; all blood-poisoning: ‘varieoeele: poison oak ; lost or impaired manhood; spinal troubles; nervous exhaustion and prostra- tion; Incipient paresis; all kidney diseases: lum- ; sciatica: all bladder troubles; dmd-; indigestion; constipation; all visceral ers, which are treated by the depurating department. Special instruments for bladder troubles. There are a few of the special diseases in which exceptionally remarkable cures have been made by the specialists, and it may frankly be stated that a helping hand is extended to every patient. Circulars and Testimonlals of the Great Hudyan sent HUDSON MEDICAL INSTITUTE, Stockton, Market and Ellis Sts. Send for PROF. J. H. HUDSON'S celebrated lecture on *“The Errors of Youth and on Lost Man- * "It will cost you nothing. “'Visit the Institute when you can. AIl patients seen in private consulting-rooms. Out-of-lown patients can learn all about thelr cases if they send 1« om blani letters are strictly con doernt nl‘pti‘wo thousand’ testimonials In the writing of the individuals cured. Oftice Hours—9 A. M. to 8 p. M. Sundays, 9to 12, ({