The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, March 31, 1895, Page 17

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, MARCH 31, 1895. 17 OF INTRREST 10 L, WOy, [ One of the latest pieces of newsis that | the Godet s is to have a train. A model | is given in a Paris journal first of a car- riag tume, with a skirt having organ | pleats, and qui train. The next | n is of 2 king-gown, which | iescribed as a Godet skirt with | ee organ pleats, and it is semi-trained. thought we had seen the last of | \ed street dresses fora long time to but from the present indications we | expect, by. nex nter, to-see the | d Godet skirt in vogue. | Another use has been found for the | pretty, ve Japanese wash silks | (iro 5 yard). They make ¢ to wear in your bedroom d the warm weather. One | of these nts takes ten yards of and is pretty when made with a large roll- == for Young Lady. ing collar edged with a frill of lace, which should be cascaded down the front, and A rufile of colored India f ially when Ik. y finish, and a French do them up perfec wrappers will be Iy one of decided that stocking °t things to wea this paper states), a: ngs up so much bet dds, “That of co! uspenders T, 4 Now, I do not in the statement, for a tight a st agree w worn "sufi ss condition is positively certainly retards the lation, besides, r i the shape of the lin if properly adjnsted, will maintain will hold the stocki while do ne 2 ng up per- | | ders uphold the stockings without tearin; P! £ 2 | a change from what gauz | fectly, for people are not supposed to wear hose three or four times too large for the | limps, as in purchasing hosiery not only | the size of the foot must be considered, | but also the circumference of the leg. No- where have the women better developed limbs than in California, so I am quite cer- tain the cut *‘Jartelle Marquise’ will prove interesting, for these ornamental suspen- them. One model is of gathered ribbon and rosettes of satin and lace, equally pretty, whether in black or colored ribbon, Another | part is in silk elastic with moire brackets and will cost altogether $1 25, but you can make them as expensive as you pl T had no idea n; giving you a more sleeves to-day, but as these are such vou have had they | are worth contemplating, for we are con- | stantly told that the sieeves are simply | huge, quantities of material being used | 4 BATCH OF FASHIONABLE EVENING | SLEEVES. Fig. 1. Shoulder strap in piped satin, form- | ing a bow on the shoulder with a trail of | 1 flowers. Lace or figured silk, draped in two | in the semblance of a butterfly by means of a radiating bow of loops and ends in moire | ribbon. | XTIT elbow slecve—Bor- { francaise, set off with epau- | in white linen, edged with van- | dyked guipure. Ostrich tips on th I Fig. . The Triangle Sleeve—Striped chine | ribbon, secured on the shoulder with erect loops and bow, and carried along the armhole in_front to meet the bracelet in similar ribbon, ished off on either side with dainty bows. 5. 1830 Sleeve—Pearl and spangled caught up in the center with pearls or | rose pompons and connected to the shoulder, | with a double velvet ribbon, knotted to finish off with two ears. lettes and cuff shoulder and but little stiffening, the fabrics em- ployed being of the richest silk and velvet. The fact is everything new, chic and original is in stylé, one of the most suc- cessful toulets designed this season being a combination of a Louis XIV gown and a | caprice of the dress The result | an_evening gown h has been h commented on in fashion papers. A new fad is accordion-pleated_chiffon | for nightgowns and chemises. They are | made of a peculiar sort of chiffon, which is | said to be casily done up and_delightfully | r. The nightgowns are most at-| active when made of lawn with a Valen- ciennes lace edging the frill around the neck and that sewn on the bottom. The | sleeves are also accordion pleated with the frills of the lace at the wrists. Quite a lovely chemise is waisted, with a band of ribbon through an insertion, and at the to) over with revers herring-boned in | d edged with Teal Valenciennes. | Among the new materials is mentioned | one of silk crepon of violet and black | shot. This was to be worn as a skirt with | an open coat of plain violet vers and basque edged with s broidery. A new mouse-colored vigognes | will make up beautifully for spring wear, | and it is predicted that the new shade of | cornflower will be much worn. | Green is essentially a spring color, and this season it threatens to be more worn | than ever. sent out a blouse of green and black checked glace. It had the inevitable front boxpleat, fastened with ex- quisite little gold buttons, the sailor collar formed square revers in front, it was edged with real black Valenciennes lace (which is one of the novelties in lace), and it promises to be much worn. ~The drawn collar was trimmed with thelace and rosettes; the sleeves were full with black lace gauntlets. Chinasilks are much used for bodices and also for the | S The colors and designs | are pretty, delicate and ciear as paintings | newest parasols. on china. There are several new washing materials in all sorts of zephyr. One is called the “‘stylish,” and 1s in small checks in every considerabl with white, and the material is so wonder- fully fine that it looks like silk. Figured lace striped and fancy card zephyrs are also novel and pretty. Fancy delaines come in delicate shades of green mauve and pink, overlaid with a fine network of silk and dotted over with tiny sprigs. The white washing fabrics, in endless variety, from the finest embroidered mus- lin to the piques and something mentioned as a kind of oatmeal cloth. Some of the fine lawns have a crepon stripe. Large checks are not to be worn this season.” Ornamental buttons are in great demand. Some are of the best paste in the wheel or star patterns; jet and steel | of the memorable T e shade, mixed in every case | A very swell house has just | | is gay with cushions of every shape imagin- able, while the console with its fluted legs indi s the perfect taste of the furnish- i One gets a_glimpse, too, of the small ssing-room attached, hung with one of the Liberty crepon fabrics, where the actress changes her costumes when her loge happens to be invaded by visitors. To know Mme. Rejane en famille is the greatest privilege of all. For that one must be ‘asked_to her chalet d’Henneque- ville on the Normandy coast, between Hontfleur and Trouville, when tout Paris is at the seaside. With her pretty little daughter Germaine and her infant son Jacques, Rejane and her husband form the most delightful little family in the world. A very interesting account has been given 1t of March 31, 1872, and no one more vigorously than the little amine on the rail. Gabrielle’s father had een the comptroller of the Ambigu Theater, and during his lifetime had ire- quently taken her to pay visits to the act- Tesses in the foyer or in their loges. After her father’s ~death the child was kept at school. Mme. Rejus, hoping to fit her for the post of teacher, did everything in her power to with- draw her from theatrical temptation. It was useless. At last Mme. Rejos reluctantly consented and paid a visit with Gabriellé to present her to Regnior for the purpose of having her enter the Co; i She made a favorable impression on Regnier, though she wasa most unattractive girl, lank and thin, with very irregular features. She studied like a beaver, her energy knew no_bounds, and her master at last took her under his special care, ziving her lessons without charge. At the end of two years she was offered an engagement at the Vaudeville. She at- tracted the attention of the critics and won the favor of her audiences from the moment she stepped upon the boards. For six years she passed from one triumph to ‘another—from Fanny Lear to | Lili, Verglas, Dominos Roses, to her crown- | ing achievement as Baronmess Doria in | “Odette.” Deslandes, the director of the Vaudeville, wishcd to renew her engage- | ment, but taking the advice of friends who | were 'indignant at his miserly offer, she appeared at I' Ambigu, where her great hit was made in Jean Richepin's play, “La Glu.” From there she played at the Palais Royal with uninterrupted success, and in Meilhac’s “Ma Camarade’’ carried every- thing before her. j It is_difficult to put into exact words Mme, Rejane’s particular charm. It is an indefinable mixture of grace, of coguetry, of intellect and persunal seductiveness. | She impregnates every role she plays with her own uncommon personality. Her tall, slender figure and most expressive mobile face are enhanced by her wonderful eyes— roguish and sly or full of bitter irony—a nose that seems made to go with her wit, full senstous lips, and a clear, biting sar- castic voice. 'l"his is Rejane, the actress, who still retains something of the long- I o i erdM 117 ! FRENCH THEATER AND SOIREE DRESSES, DESIGNED AND MADE BY WORTH, Long flowing opera cloak in nacre brocade, with two boz pleats at the back. Two wing-like flounces droop over the voluminous elbow sleeves. From under the fluted collar and muslin ruffle falls a mantilla in rare lace, forming at the back a pointed tippet with slight epaulettes, and in the front two stole ends, finished off at the foot with a double flounce in silk muslin. No 2. Dinner Gown—Low pointed bodice and train skirt in blue satin striped with red, and studded with carnations to match. Short revers rest on the Brusselslace berthe, while the ends of the epauleties form a drapery over the upper part of the lapels, and are kept in place with a large bow in satin ribbon, shot with red, opposite a smaller one. A fleunce of lace is also inserted between the double muslin puff of the short sleeves, which is headed with a huge godet of the Louis XV silk. A ladder of lace coquilles and rosette bous outline on either side the straight apron-panel, which contrasts with the lines running diagonally at the sides. In the coiffure sparkles a coronet, with Mercury wings an gold and rubies. ! No. 3. E beads. ning Dress—Low round bodice and trained godet skirt in pink brocade, elaborately trimmed with rows and scrolls of steel A white satin ribbon crosses the square top of the bodice, with clusters of loops on each side, over which are carelessly thrown lace | draperies, coming from the epaulettes, and adorned with bunches of hortensia. Another ribbon, draun through slits at the point of the stomacher, is carried at the back, to be knotted in two large ioops. The short sleeves are puckered with three outside godets. Diamond filets encircle and cross the Grecian knot; pink aigrette, small gauze rosette-bows with gold hortensia in the center. Elegant carringe costume for a young patron, made of mauvre crepon. The skirt, which is separate from the bodice, is trimmed with a vandyked flounce of cream-colored guipure, outlined at both edges with ruched silk muslin. Gwo bands of guipure jinished at both edges, like the flounce., Bodice slightly gathered in front at the waist. At the throat @ turned-down. collar of gui*ure and a large knot of black Higher up Gnd at equal intervals there are satin ribbon. Balloon trimmed, en suite with the skirt. Black' knots at the bend of the arm " 2 the wrist. Camot of shaded winlets with fine aigrette. are mingled in some effective buttons, the i forming a large wafer-like ce orcelain has been painted with the daint- iest faces, and some have a gray tint with steel mounts. Pierced gold and silver are also used effectively. You will, many of you, need a simple cape for morning wear, and I have described so many beau- tiful ones that I desire togive a word of advice about inexpensive ones. The mar- ket is overloaded with trash, for example, common imitations of the expensive per- forated work. If you only wish to spend between $8 and $10 purchase one of a good plain cloth with a tailor finish. There are several stylish ones to be found here at very reasonable figures, but they will sell quickly, so do not delay your spring shop- ping too late. Let me advise you not to indulge in hats which can correctly be spoken of as a per- ambulating flower garden, unless you can afford a great variety of chapeaux. A new bodice is described as bein, one piece, with epaulettes which fit over the shoulder. The front and back are slightly gathered to the waist and a folded bi:nd worn over it. Full sleeves of gigot shape. Artistic photographers now generally advise their female patrons to wear a gown which will not make the photograph as old fashioned two or three years afterit has been taken. One model called “a portrait dtess” is thus described: The gown is made in the softest satin, with a little bouillonne round the edge. The waist is short and is marked by a sash of pale light reen; the neck is trimmed witg a satin rill and old lace, which falls also from the full sleeves. It fastens invisibly at the back and here the skirt is gathered. It is made in ‘“Bengal satin.” A good style for making a wash dress for summer is to have a plain full skirt, the bodice with a Bolero iacket over a full front, the collar made of velvet to match the waistband, and both arranged to button on as required. Large frills of lace should form a front over the shoulders and then descend straight down the back, having a cross-cut narrow added basque. The sleeves must be large with deep cuffs of lace. MARCELLA, cut in Mme. Rejane. It is every one’s privilege to know and judge of an actress by buying a ticket and seeing her play, but it isonly the privi- leged few who may have the pleasure of chatting with her in her loge between the acts. And this reminds me of Rejane’s beautiful Louis-Seize loge at the Vaude- ville. The walls are hung with draperies of white, striped with pale blue, and the windows are masked with small cross- barred mirrors. Her secretary is lacquered in green and gold, and the cane-seated sofa shortly after the close of the late French war, when Regnier, the great actor of the Comedie Francaise, made a_ farewell ap- pearance, haying determined to leave the stage, to retire permanently. As may be imagined there was a tremendous crowd | waiting outside to catch a glimpse of the great man, as he stepped out of the actor's door, where his carriage was drawn up in front, laden with wreaths of floral offerings from friends and admirers. Gabrielle Rejus, accompanied by her mother, was in the throng. At that time she was a little girl of twelve or thirteen and to get a better look than her elders had sprung upon a rail and sat eagerly watch- ing. Suddenly an old man, about the sioulders, appeared. Regnier! The crowd burst into applause— uite bent | It was | ago gamine, and with it all great clever- ness and craftiness. She seizes instan- taneously the comic and ridiculous sides of persons she meets, and is most gifted in her imitative capacity. No matter to what lengths her high spirits may carry, her great tact and good taste never desert her. proper moment. Meilhac, the play-writer, }ms been able to draw out her finest quali- ties and to him she owes her best creations, notably Adrienne in “Ma Camarade,’ Henriette in ‘“Decore’” and_Riquette in “Ma Cousine.” In Henriette Mme. Rejane was thought to have reached her highest point of art, but later on, at the Odeon, in *Fantasio”; at the Varieties, “Brevet Su- erior”; at the Grand Theatre, “‘Sapho et Lysistrata,” in which character she ap- | muslin over equally pale-blue glace silk; | [ Jarge bat's-wing bows She never fails to draw the line at the | eared 100 nights, besides Madame Sans- ! sene and Vara in “The Doll's House,” | she has shown that her limitations cannot | be measured and that her talent has not reached any boundaries whatever.—Vogue. | O | Paris Fashions. | Flowers reign supreme over the female toilet; not only are they lavished upon hats and bonnets, and even upon fur col- ‘ lars and boas, as mentioned last week, but | they also frequently form the whole trim- mingof an evening dress. Now they bloom upon the bodice in clusters arranged with consummate art; now they outline in graceful wreaths the top of the decollete | bodice, and sometimes the waistband. | We have been shown a ball dress for a | young lady of almost invisible blue silk | Costume for Afternoon Receptions—Gown of mawve crepon trimmed with ecru lace or | applique_embroidery. The skirt is made in | two parts, the upper one jitting round the hips. The lower portion forms a deep fluted flounce | headed with guipure. Blouse bodice with guipure basque confined by a belt of ribbon | matching the collar. Fpaulettes of guipure united back and front by a strap of the same. Similar trimming on the balloon sleeve; fore | sleeve to match. Hat to suit the toilette. the sleeves a short wavy drapery, the low bodice edged round the top with a wreath of delicately tinted China asters with blac. cent a belt of violet circles the w and is fastened in front with a cluster of the same flowers. A dress of white gauze is prettily looped up with bunches of white jessamine; the { round low bodice is outlined with several rows of the sameand a drooping cluster on | the left shoulder. Married women, however, prefer jewels | to flowers. Small yokes, stomachers or | peaked plastrons entirely formed of pre- | cious stones are applied to low bodices of silk or velvet. These are sometimes disposed of in the shape of a butterfly star or palm leaf. Draperies of lace or chiifon are fastened upon silk bodices, with a pro- fusion of loops of pearl, and diamond brooches gleam within folds of satins and | guipure. | As a rule dinner and evening dresses are | of rich and splendid_style, the skirt full and_trained, falling in ample folds; the bodice very ric trimmed, especially about the shoulders and waist. Sleeves full pufts or short draperies, fastened with loops of pearls or ribbons, or merely with chou rosettes of satin placed here and there. A very_handsome evening dress is of mauve silk, brocaded with silver-white; A pretty morning dress, composed of a brown tweed with a thread of crimson through it. Revers of crimson silk. il AN RO N\ \ WY I I \ Bodice for dressy occasions, of lavender velvet, made with a close-fitting back, side picces and full front, adorned with artistic guipure over white satin, the same repeated in the balloon sleeves. The lining fits closely back and front, Jastening is on the left side. Collar-band and velvet Skiré of lavender velveb, as is the case with cther bodices. The invisible of white satin and double turned over collar of satin | of the ele; the skirt is cut Princess fashion in one piece, with a tiny bodice scarcely higher than a belt, opening in front over another low bodice of mauve satin, draped with mauve coiffon and point lace. A peaked stomacher of large pearls gleams in the center of the chest, and loops of pearls forming epaulettes droop over the bare shoulders and arms. dies who have diamonds wear them on their bodices and in their hair. Daisies, stars, butterflies and dragdén-flies are favor- ite devices. Elegant_brooches are worn with the im- mense collars of point lace, Irish guipure or Venetian point which are so fashion- able and form Efl.r(‘. of the generality of dressy high-neck toilets. hese collars, which are almost of the size of capes, are quite as much_in vogue as they were last summer, only instead of being ‘laid upon the bodice, they are generally lined with velvet, moire or peau-de-soie of some dark or bright color. > Thus over a dress of almond-green moire we have mnoticed a large square collar of ochre guipure d’art laid over black velvet and embroidered with jet beads and bugles. and apropos of this we may mention that beading guipure collars, which makes them Jook far more rich and_handsome, is easy and pleasant work for ladies who wish to combine eIanm:e with economy. Not only collars, but lace insertion and borders for trimming vests and plastrons, are beaded all over in black, white or colors. There is no style which demands moe skill and a more practiced hand than that f nt deshabille. It requires a lighter and more fanciful touch than any other kind of dress, for being less strictly correct it should be more graceful and coguettish. n some of the trousseaux lately ex- hibited we have taken note of some very })retty ideas in that style. One of the most ovely, destined to a very Eoung bride, is of very pale rose-colored China crape, lined with satin to match and trimmed round the foot with a deep border of Venetian point. The shape that of an Embpire | full hollow, ple: | What though no | Surely the Virot | ‘Thoughts of a young m: | What angel am I p | known. | at the same time. dress, falling loose in front from a square voke of rose-colored satin, covered with Jenetian point, but at the back the bodice is fitted to the waist by a belt which stops on each side under the arms under the long lapels of enormous bows of ‘cream- colored satin, fastened on each side of the chest. These lapels come down to the foot of the dress. At the back the skirt falls in A drapery of Venetian point is arranged over the front, between the two bows, and in epaulettes over the shoulders. Balloon sleeves finished with many looped bows of cream satin ribbons. Arnother elezant tea-gown very becoming to a brunette 1s a loose empire dress of soft amber-colored liberty velvet, put ontoa ow, round yoke of amber satin, covered with black lace and outlined with black velvet. A high chemisette of cream-col- ored cashmere, with a neckband of black velvet over amber satin, is worn in: Balloon slee ht from the elbow; two of black velvet complete the trimming, both are placed on the left side, one on the shoulder, the othera little below the waist. The skirt is_edged with black velvet round the foot. No less stylish is the following model of deadleaf-colored silk, a prett; russet color. The skirtand sleev usual balloon h and trimming are gracefu The front is covered with lace, and a narrower band of the same trims the back and left side of the bodice. A large collar of cornflower-blue velvet, edged with fur, commences upon the left shoulder, goes round the back, forms a drapery on the right side and crosses over to the left, where it is fastened at the waistunder a nd un ique. rich old white AT ST. THOMAS. LENT. She enters; bows her d in prayer, are there Are not more sw nor fair Than she with he ldlike air And words that falter. 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