The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, March 24, 1895, Page 16

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, MARCH 24, 1895, N~ LATEST NOVELTIES FROM PARIS. OFIVERESTT0 AIL WOEN, The trousseaux of the Easter brides is one of the principal topics of conversation at present, so the modistes are designing some of the loveliest gowns imaginable for their benefit, and never have the brides- maids wo: rming toilettes. e just completed, is of tin, trimmed with point of the bridal flower. It| has a full court train of brocaded white | satin. Another wedding gown will be of | ivory-white satin adorned with very ex-| quisite pearl embroidery on the bodice, | while rich old Spanish lace will appear on the waist and skirt. At a swell wedding just before Lent the aids’ costumes were very much ad- They consisted of plain, rich white satin skirts and Louis XV coats of heavy white brocade, trimmed with antique rhine-stone buttons and pendants set in | in gold. The hats were of white velvet | trimmed with white ostrich feathers and | pink roses. The bouquets were of pink roses. The coats showed a lining of rose- pink silk. A bride who will be married very quletly intends to wear a gray crepon made in a strictly simple style, with a crush collar of violet velvet. The hat to be worn with this costume is a French creation in tones of gray and violet. The dress is lined | throughout with a very handsome taffeta sitk. o Violet is so becoming to this little woman that she has ordered a gown in a violet shade of face cloth. The yoke and waist will be trimmed with an appligue of jet passementerie, the overbodice being of velvet and edged with mink tail. The skirt is full and absolutely plain. She has a charming French cape of gray lvet with an applique of white satin, on h the velvet is laid ina design; the satin is covered all over with jet. There are large arm holes, and the arm is cov- ered with & new-fashioned sleeve, appar- ently a cape. Another bride has a pretty cape of black | satin lined with ermine, the ermine show- ing itself in a high collar as a lining. The | shoulders are outlined with very handsome jet passementerie. A very youthful bride has just received a little gown in green satin with pink rib- bons. The skirt is cut in the newest style, | and its ouly trimming is a great bow of the ribbon at the side of the front. The bodice is arranged with chiffon and the sleeves have a cape-liké epaulette of lace, She also has a bodice of white chiffon em- broidered in silver sequins. A crescent of | wild roses is arranged as an epaulette over cach shoulder, and the balloon sleeves | have, nestling in their snowy blllows, a | few roses with their foliage. The soft whiteness of the bodice vanishes into a sort of sheath of pink satin, cut in V form back and front and outlined with silver em- broidery. The skirt is of pink satin ex- actly ‘matching the shade of the roses. It is lined with white silk. Underwear trimmed with quantities of dainty lace are great temptations to the maiden in search of her trousseau, but take my advice, and unless you are zoing to have a very comfortat rly income avoid garments which will require alway to be sent to the best French laundries, lace requires delicate handling to look ell. A friend of mine who was married a few months ago suggested this remark of mine, for when she married she had sets of the daintiest underwear you can nceive of, for although she knew, when she se- lected her things, that her future h nd had only a salary it never occurred to her that such elaborately trimmed gar- e pink roses edged with a border of sky blue, is very pretty. Dark red roses on a white ground with a dark blue border is an odd ribbon. Brocaded ribbons ap{)ear in many colors, some in contrasting shades. Dres- den bouquets on grounds of pale biue or | white are very chic, and will be used with er gOWns. good effect on summ g 1 Ribbons in rich dark colors, striped, plaited and striped, are to be had in such great varieties that almost any of the ‘ by | Spring dress materials can easily ‘e | matched. Ribbons in plain colors will be | still used, especially moire ribbon. In | place of the much-used stock collar broad }our—inch ribbon with very narrow stripes, on a white or colored ground, can be sub- It is fastened on the under side in front, is passed around the throat and tied in 4 wide bow at the back, arranging itself maturally in folds by the process. This sort of coilar takes from one yard to a yard and a quarter. At the Comedy Theater, London, some beautiful gowns have lately been worn in “A Leader of Men.” Miss Marion Terry wore in the second acta gown of silyer- gray silk crepon, made en princesse, fas- tened on the ieit side with two large but- tons of rhine-stones. Empire scarf of am- ber silk. Fall of Tosca beads in the bodice. Targe ruched sleeves, draped and slashed with cream-embroidered chiffon. The sleeves are somewhat elaborate but very becoming to the wearer, who also appeared in the same play in a costume of rich white satin. The bodice with shoulder straps and sprays of jeweled steel embroidery, fastened with paste buttons over a soft full vest of white chiffon. The large satin sleeves were slashed with turned-back pieces of embroidery and chiffon flounces. A long fringe of steel and jewels adorned the left side. In the third act her cloak of electric blue fancy satin cloth, finely pleated and trimmed with cut jet, was admired by some. We are dividing ‘our affections between the cape and the pelisse style. Unques- tionably, though, the former is the easiest to adjust. The latter carries more ele- gance in its train, and the sleeves of these atter cloaks are made so enormous that the difficulties of getting into them may | be minimized. The one I give a sketch of is of a light pearl tinted brocade, with a | desien of lilac and roses upon its surface. | It is lined with pale yellow satin, and trimmed down one side with sable, while | sable also edges the hem, and forms the uffs, conveniently cut in an open, gaunt- let shape, to the full sleeves. This is as simple to puton as any long cloak with sleeves can be, but yet I doubt the wearer will require considérable assistance to get into it with any degree of comfort. So after all I must acknowledge that the cape shapes should reign prime favorites for all occasions which demand a | wrap, but those for evening should, when | possible, be lined with fur, as it is unques- tionably desirable. A white satin or bro- caded lining may be permitted to take its place, being, of course, duly provided with an interlining of dornette. A black satin cloak, with colored flowers upon it, lined with pale pink silk, trimmed around the neck with a ruche of chiffon, which falls with long ends to the hem, and is decorated on either side of the throat | stituted. WEDDING, TRAVELING AND BRIDESMAIDS' COSTUMES. ments would be inappropriate; however you can imagine her consternation at re- ceiving a bill for over $20 for one month’s wash irom the French laundry for her husband and herself, but she isa most sensible woman, so she at once purchased some more useful articles. Fashions change so frequently that the wise_parents will simply give what they | consider right to their daughter for the bridal outfit, allowing her to either spend it all at once, or to purchase what is need- ful for immediate use, laying aside the remainder, as it is wiser to have four orfive very stylish gowns at once, and add to the wardrobe as the dress styles change. A'few days ago I saw for one of the sea- son’sdebutantes a striped white crepon with a full-blouse effect ho({’icc. The lining is of glace silk and a great sash of white moire, and a bunch of the palest pink roses com- plete a charming costume, and on irom inexpensive in spitejof its simplicity. Ribbons will be greatly used this yearif one can judge from the immense eties of new styles now shown. Chine ribbons with shadowy flowers, whieh appear to be gradually fading ihto the background and edged with a border of satin in a contrastin, shade, are among the newest seen. cream-white ribbon, with a pattern of pale with bunches of pink roses, is a very pleas- Hl% garment. { The late cool weather does not dispose ione to think much of the dainty gowns which so soon must be fashioned for the summer months. Our shops are exhibit- ing nainsooks, mulls, Irish linens, pique, duck, dimity and lawns, from which will be evolved most captivating dresses, which will be further beautified with laces and ribbons. The sleeves will, many of them, be made en gigot, with great ingenuity in letting in lace entre-deux, managing the | fullness in one great puff, or in two wings, or in odd draperies. The bodices all have the blouse effect, the same as the winter one, and the white laces and passemen- | teries come to replace those jetted and | spangled. The transparent materials are | marvels of loveliness. The white skirtsare | like sunset clouds and light as air, for the linings are separate, and " the silk petticoat over which they are to float is an elaborate affair of laces, flounces and choux of rib- bon built up into stiffness. The corsage and sleeves are specimens of the lace- { maker’s art. | There will be seen sashes of all widths, bows or rosettes. Tablier effects on sides of front breadth made by keys of ribbons in long scarf ends. Contrasts of color will One of the gowns worn at the last drawingsroom, ond was designed and made by ; i i i je : i i W a London house. Black satin petticoat, with a jeweled buunfi_:,. m_nbmdercd at the foot in rosc and copper sequins. The bodice has a similar butterfly, which reappears on the black mlin]akevea. The train is cut en princesse of Knglish brocade, Lining of £hot rose and copper. == Theater Dress. Theater Cloak. | gansthe Countess of Rossly | Portal's widow, irk ! many members by her persistent eulogiz- ing of the art of cycling. Lady Margaret Spicer, the Duchess of Westmoreland, and iss Musgrave always use the Rover. Bantam is also a great favorite with the ladies, who are adopting it very freelav; but perhaps the most popular “steel steed” with them is the Beeston Humber, which is ridden by most of our aristocratic cyclistes. The Duchess of Portland, the Duchess of Westmoreland, the Duchess of Sutherland, Lady de Grey, Lady Wolver- ton, Lady Ashburton, Lady Paget, Lady Edward gomerset. Lady de Trafford, Lady Young, Lady Mabel Howard, Lady Lam: son and the Baroness de Tuyll are all atronesses of this tricycle. Miss Mabel esant, the popular author’s sister, is an inveterate cyclist, thinking nothing of enjoying a thirty or even forty miles’ spin. Lady Jeune is a very practical wheel- woman, doing much of her shopping on her machine, and advising every one to become amateurs of this mode of loco- motion. 1 At one of the schools where ladies are taught tne professor has instituted a musical bicycle ride, which includes some very charming movements, such as cir- cling, crossing and fancy figuring. - At another establishment the pupils are al- lowed to use up-to-date pneumatic-tired machines, each being so adjusted as to suit the characteristics of the individual rider. On the whole, ladies are very quick in learning the exercise, oftentimes mastering it in six lessons. In a school it is easier to acquire the knack of balancing and of turning quickly than out in the open. | Among the most recent recruitsto the fas- cinating and fashionable pastime are Lady Mills, Lady Colin Campbell, the Duchess of Manchester, Lady Norreys, Lady Lur- sslyn, Sir Gerald Lady Florence Bourke, burn, Lady George Hamilton, Lady Fa | Lady Emily Kingscote, Hon. Mrs. Ellis | and many others. The Duchess of Portland rides very well and takes great pleasure in the exercise. be the rule, and combinations of three and four colors the rage, but these ventures need a true eye for colors, and no small amount of taste must be exercised, other- wise the effect will be some ful for words. Paris what is spoken of & “a_delightful of the day, a firelike effect resembling flame, produced by a combination of red and tawney yellow. This mohair wears well, was worn some thirty vears ago, and looks so silky that it is difficult to believe it to be composed entirely of goat's hair. | It will make up, if placed in the hands of a skillful modiste, into beautiful dresses. Anexqusite new trimming for evening cloaks and gowns sort of lace lappeting with both sides alike; it is compuseé of a lace insertion with straight edges, an ap- vlique ot beautiful embroidery in the form of corn flowers on either side to be sewn lightly down on any material; the effect is exqusite. Another lovely trimming consists of lace leaflets, like those employed for Honiton, starting from SR peach-colored metal paillettes. This particular design was_used on a green striped silk, which shaded into peach color. ‘We hear that the fashion of the imme- diate future is beetle-wing effect, which we shall see in millinery embroideries of all | kinds and dress trimming For skirts there are also some narrow Esnels prepared of jet and various colored eads, iridescent or otherwise. The design of many of these is of some trailing flower with its foliage. For a white satin evening dress there is a stole of gold and crystal beads, intermixed with large pearl drops and small groupings of tiny amethyst cabochons, Chains of crystal, held in | place by medallions of pearl and gold, simulate epaulettes. Another of pearls means of a narrow cresent. mourning this device is most effectively carried out in jet and steel. The blouse effects so much used to-day give ample opportunity to the skillful dressmaker for artistic designs. Cycling Among Society Women. Only to read the chronicles of the daily press one gathers how much the pastime of cycling has drifted into vogue during the last twelve months. There is con- stantly an allusion to some well-known dame du monde having made such a jour- ney on the steel which neither nor | sleeps, or some remark anent the purchase | of a bicycle de luxe by Lady —. was when wheeling fell under the con- | aemning finger of Mrs. Grundy. When hing too dread- | There has just arrived from | stuff,” a mohair with a slight white figure | interwoven all over like watering, but shot | in what without doubt is the newest color | and steel fits around the armholes by | For half | Time | tandem tri who herself is an enthusiastic wheel woman, indulging often in the pastime | and giving it in every way so much of her regal patronage that the ecycling club Veloce of Milan recently presented her with a golden bicycle, which is said to be the first in existence. The Duchess d’Aosta should rank as a pioneer among women bicyclists, as she was one of the first to persuade the Italian nobility to adopt this | i One of the latest bridal costumes designed by a famous house. Her preference is for a Rayleigh. ! In France we found the wife and the | children of the late President Carnot cy- | cling with much ease and grace, and many of the foremost society women in Parisare noted cyclists. In the Bois de Boulogne daily there are dozens of fair exponents of the art of wheeling to be n; and in Brussels the scene of the same exercise is the Bois de la Cambre, where we find Mme, Lambert de Rothschild frequen riding. At Biarritz several English lad! ving cycling, among them being Ipole, Matilda Daniell and cNaugton. The Comtesse de Lun- g is another wheelwoman at this favor- ite Tesort. Mrs. Asquith and the Hon. Mrs. Leslie (Lady Randolph Churchill's sister) are other lady cyclist of note. Mrs. Jay and Mrs. Vanderbilt are members of the Michaux Cycling Club in New York, which is one of the smartest in existence. —The Queen. el s They Watch Royalty. Empress Eugene is, of all the royal and distinguished personages now assembled in the south of France for the purpose of escaping the rigors of a northern winter, the only one whom the Government does not deem it necessary to have waiched both by day and by night by detectives. It affects to see in her nothing more than a lady of pank, and recognizes in her no other title or dignity than that which she has assumed—that of Comtesse de Pierrefonds. | means of locomotion. The young Queen | | of Holland finds_pleasure and !-cFaxmion in rides on her tricycle in the grounds of | the palace at Het-Loo, while our own Prin- | es of Wales frequently ride theirs at | Sandringham. When the Princess and her | daughters Were last in Denmark they rode { les in the Y:\rks of Bernstoff | and Charlottenberg, and they evince as| much pleasure in the exercise as they do in | Bodice of chiffon in green, worn above skirt of pale pink striped with green. men first rode velocipedes women would attempted to mount them. Then came the bicycle for the male sex, and a concession to the ladies in the form of the tricycle. Perhaps the next step toward feminine in- dependence in the wheeling world was the “bicycle made for two,” and apres cela woman took the reins, or, rather, the braki into her own hands, and rode an individ ual machine. Ladies’ cycling clubs and schools of instruction have sprung up in various parts of the kingdom, and at the latter, in some af the smart quarters of the metropolis, over 150 members of the aris- tocracy take lessons weekly; and now, in addition to the many papers devoted to sport, and to cycling in particular, there is to be one entirely for the wheeling mem- hlgrs of the fair sex, entitled The Lady Cy- clist. Of royal ladies we have some notabie examples in Queen Margherita of Italy This cape is of a soft shade of gray velvet, with a capelet of white cloth richly embroid- ered ingray, black and silver threads. It is edged with cut jet, and eachvandyke is tipped with a jet tassel. The high collar has an edge of jet. Rose or green silk for lining. have been thought outrageous had they | fnnalfip, skating and boating, for all of which they have much enthusiasm. Many of our society women have pro- vided themselves with tricycles de luxe, some being made of ivory, with polished — Theater Cape. Black satin, lined with ermine. steel, others of silver plate and oxidized metal. Lady Dudley’s is particularly beautiful, being enameled with white and lined with blue and gold, the handles being of | real ivory. Asa rule, Lady Dudley uses a Raglan ladies’ safety. Queen Margherita, 0 her husband and son, exercises on an English-made machine, the Quinton being the one thus favored by the Italian roy- alties. Almost every county, and a great number of towns, have now their estab- lished ladies’ cycling club; one of the best of these is the Coventry, captained by Miss E. H. Thomas, the daughter of Captain Thomas, J. P. This lady brings both ex- perience and .enthusiasm to bear on her riding; she was one of the founders and chief organizers of her club, and has gained | of the illust She is left free to come and go as she liges, and no_police in and out of uniform are assigned to the duty of keeping watch over her villa at Cap Martin. But she is the sole visitor of royal rank who enjoys this immunity; and with her exception eve: scion of a reigning house, from the ve movement of setting foot on French soil, shadowed by a perfect crowd.of members of the secret police, who exercise a surveil- lance that only ceases with the departure THE LAST SITTING. Deep in the portrait’s oaken frame Is carven, “Amourette,’ The artist’s fanciful, swect For this high-born coque As fragile, pink and white a dame As Dresden statuette. me, The m arch of a gilded court She swayed from vouth to age; *Tis said, her witty, last retort Has place in Congreve’s page. Her favor was of vast import To soldier, priest and sage. “This, my last sitting, fond upstart,” (His check knows her caress,) 43V hat shapes do there the arras part?” Love of a king, they press ‘The steel home to thy painter’s heart. Quail, proud queen’of finesse ! The tale of old; but mark awhile, The prophecy of pain Writ on & face born to beguile, Seductive, cold and vain, But deep eyes mock her rose-leat smile And hint a sad disdain. ENYOL AR apple-blossom Amourette, The records of thy fame, ~ Love of u king, high-born coquette, Live throngh an artist’s name. ‘rom Vogue. Notes About Women. The late Lady Charlotte Schreiber of London, of fan and porcelain collecting fame, was besides a great patroness of the London cabmen. They were indebted to her many years ago as the donor of the cabman's shelters, outside the Langham Hotel, of which there are forty. Her con- stant solicitude for the welfare of the cab- men who used that shelter took a practical form in the knitting of and presenting to hundreds of other ‘‘cabbies’’ a thick, sub- stantial woolen muffler, a ‘most comfort- able addition to their outfit. Once a year she invited about 200 to a substantial tea and entertainment. According to Mr. Cross, in his memoir of his wife, the reason she took the name of George Eliot was, as she explains it, “because George was Mr. Lewes’ Christian name, and Eliot was agoud, mouth-filling, easily pronounced word.” Tea jacket of dahlia-colored velvet, with the revers twrned back with pale blue satin, a drapery of lace forming plaits at either cor- ner, while the ‘lace is also joined together—to make a shirt front. The sleeves are trans- f;m“ Jrom elbow to wrist, and made of the ce. Dinner dress for young matron. This gown is composed of black velvet, with trimmings of rich jet. 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