The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, March 10, 1895, Page 14

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, MARCH 10, 1895. SOME OF THE LATEST FASHIONS, Many of us have from last spring one of the pretty striped silks which were much in demand then and will wmore used than ever this De: lovely idea for such a which will shortly be donned by a pretty widow is of a black and white silk. ground is white, and the narrow black stripes are about ten inches apart. Between the st s is a vine-like design in black of a ve dainty, but unknown, oty of flow The skirt is very full, tripes on the ; the basque is a sort ee with a low cut vest of white lace be the of co: over black silk. jet and a jet girdle completes a toilette to;be Worn as a dinner dress when dining at | home. In sketch No. 2 isa girlish model for a hell pink peau de soie with tiny The ribbons are of the ne shade as the dots. Deep frills of lace complete a basque which will be reproduced i ions, and as remnants vely not a few will be season for seaside hops. ad in an evening toilette of .. The seams of the full skirt are outlined with bla velvet, the two front ones ace apparently turned back to show an underskirt of black net em- broidered with jet. The sleeves and belt n dots. can be used effec made up thi Figure 3is ¢ white moire si are of the velvet, and the whiteness of the | purse The | The collar is edged with | i ther aigrette, which is seen so much on importations. £ For a young woman nothing can be prettier to wear in the evening 2t a water- ing-place than a toilet of i 1k muslin, scattered with pompadour flowerets. Dress must be entirely accordion pleated. The [ skirt pleats widen as they descend. Belt | and collar of velvet in the shade called | rose-roi lace yok ive must be of ivory white glace silk. e first displays of spring and summer | millinery will'soon be made, and the mod- els will be eagerly scrutinized to see in what direction the wind of fashionable fancy set A Paris paper says that every model ap- pears to be az ers and bug in an apparently hetero- geneous collection. It takes some time and a little experience to separate the de- tails and find out exactly how each fear- net is concocted. cipal requirement, and a few of the most dashing chapeaux were surely designed for our bonny California girls. They will | | be able to carry them off admirably, and, to confess the truth, I have had a “private view” of several millinery triumphs which are enough to divert the attention | | | of the best of us ifrom strictly Lenten | | thoughts. | The sensible girl, with the moderate | allo nce, will purchase one chic hat from | a first-class mihim-r, and will then look | around and find one or two pretty fancy | straws, for which she will buy some in | pensive posies and ribbons. Then if she | can design, let her take the chapeaux to a | cheap milliner, and tell her exactly how to trim them, and they can be efully done for from 50 cents to 75 cents ay Last summer a pretty girl with a small ited several of the best shops, and The lining to be effec- | of bows, feathers, flow- | fully and wonderfully made hat and bon- | In some classes size seems to be the prin- | an entire gown of this somber fabric does not seem to be very taking; however, I will describe one which must have been very handsome. i The skirt was well hung and lined with horsehair and composed of the finest duchesse satin. The corsage was draped in old white Brussels lace, almost without fullness. A Smyrna velvet collar, slightly decollete, was cut in points and embroi- | dered with the finest cut jet beads, fitted to the shoulders. A velvet stock in folds, | with diamond and jet bayette. ) " The girdle was of Smyrna velvet ribbén, | | tied at the side in front with long loops and ends. Very wide sleeves with drapery | hanging below the elbow. With this ele- gant gown were worn a pair of the new “rench ties with red Louis Quinze heels. The bright red shininf out of the black satin is s: to have been very fetching, and the silk stockings were like gossamer; indeed, much attention has been given to | making stockings beautiful. The open work and embroidery are all on the front, both instep and ankle. Many have the entire front in real lace, either black or white. The colored silk stockings are al- worn to match as nearly as possible the kid or satin of the slipper. The last craze of the Parisiennes is to make their garters works of art, and now ribbons, lace, velvet, flowers and jewelry are all combined in forming one pair of garters. : A brid, garters are thus described: One pair is in liberty satin puffed over an elastic, with ruffled edges on either side and a deep flounce of exqu e lace falling over the knee. A juunty bow of yellow satin ribbon with long ‘ends trims one side. Another of mauve satin puffed over the elastic, with_ribbon ruche on each edge, a choux of ribbon on one side and two ragettes swinging on the ends of ribbon SOME OF THE LATEST VALKING, DINNER AND EVE VING COSTUMES. neck is enhanced by the band of black velvet, beautifully embroidercd which heads the’ full ruffle of old lace. Little tufts of white ostrich plumes adorn the belt and the front seams. An aigrette of black and white is very chic worn in the hair. The next costume was worn by Mme. Bonnet in “La Femme a Papa.” The French journals describe it as a charmin, gown of black surah with cut out (refofi battern forming transparency over pink. Bodice adorned with artistic lace. Collar and sash of Nile green satinribbon. Velvet toque with flowers and aigrette. Another dress worn in the same play by Mme. Bon- net was of pink velontine. Bodice of cream- colored lace, confined by a belt having for fastening three bows of pink ribbon held by three paste buckles. Fluted skirt form- ing ripples at the bottom. i Mme. Judic was much admired when she appeared in ““La Femme a Papa” wear- ing a long wrap made of beige cloth trimmed with gold galoon, embroidered with beads, gray fur border and collar, Fluted shoulder cape, trimmed with galoon, For such a wrap I would suggest a lining of green silk, covered with bunches of vio- lets. No. 5 gives some idea of a gown from Paris which will be worn at an Easter ball. The skirt of buttercup yellow satin shows panels of the same shade of tulle, embroid- ered in greenish gold sequins, Thus tulle covers the satin waist and forms the balloon part of the sleeves. Quan- tities of buttercups finish the bodice and two great bunches adorn the skirt. The two Jarge buttons are of buttercup yellow enamel, with flecks of greenish gold.” They ar? very handsome and are mounted in old. g For the last cut I had to read about the costumes worn by the leading actresses in *‘Les_Ricochets de I’Atour,” and found that Mlle. Marie Magnier wore the one 1 give, in the second act. It is a rich toilette of opal moire. The bodicei covered with a sort of coatof artistic I+ and jabot of mauve silk muslin; velvet sash of dark green. The buttons were very large and exquisite. The hat will be frequently seen here in many combinations. In the same act Mme. Magnier appeared n a gown with a slight train of flower scat- tered moire. Bodice veiled by roseate- mauve silk muslin, with inseris of lace, voluminous sleeves, sash tastefully knotted on the left side. Mlle. Depoix’s toilet was much com- mented on.” It is of red and ecru glace silk, belt and collar of black satin, capelet !orminr' stole by Venetian point. Behind, the belt is fastened with a very artistic bow. Six large jetted buttons on one of the folds of the ‘train at the bottom were much noticed, but whether they will re- fl) ar On many gowns remains to be seen. le. Depoix wore a flower toque with the 4 in_jet, | | gether, and decided which hat was most | Becoming, could find nothing that would suit her under $16, so we went out shopping to- and_before the morning had sed she had found almost exactly the e she so admired in an untrimmed | shape, and the ribbon and flowers did not | take long to find. The result wasa hat which was greatly admired, and she spent exactly $6 85 for the hat and material, and $1 for trimming. Positively I preferred the hat so selected to the imported one. I have selected a number of pretty sleeves for the new dresses, and as long as the skirts remain severely plain great at- tention will concentrate ‘on_the bodices, which are really very lovely, many of them. Black satin has never been more used than during the past season and it will continue in vogue, espeially for skirts, as Smart little jacket in chenille cloth; double square sailor” collar; the upper one, of ivory cloth, is richly braided in Oriental colors, Toque of black-jetted fancy straw, vith ivory paradise aigrette rising from a rosette of black roses; roses at the back. Ruff of white accordion chiffon striped jet cabochons, and Jastened with roses. Muff of ivory cloth and cornflower velvet, with roses to match, hanging below. A black chantilly face butterfly surmounts the large choux. This particular bride had several more pairs, but any number of dainty garters can be devised and buckles for them form uite an item, but of course one can un- erstand that when it is known that many New York women find not the least dif culty in spending every year $20,000 on their clothing, and I am not alluding to the Goulds or Astors either. It does seem very extravagant, but it does good to "t the money in circulation. MARCELL 4 - WOMEN FARMERS AND RANCHERS, A Number of Them Doing Business Suc- cessfully in Kansas. The management of Kansas farms and ranches is not confined entirely to men, for, according to the Topeka Capital, there are some very shrewd and capable man- agers among the ladies. One of these is Miss Kittie D. la Master of Gardner, John- son County. Miss Master goes to the Live- stock Exchange and attends to the finan- cial part of the business. 1 have been engaged in farming,”’ says the lady, “for the past six years, on ac- count of ill health of my father, who is in- capacitated for work on account of rheuma- tism, which goes hard with him at his age, which is 73 years. When my mother and myself took charge of the farm of over 800 acres every one predicted we would be failures, but we are very well satisfied with the results.”” Of the other Kansas women who are Entrons of the Kansas Cfiy livestock mar- et may be mentioned Mrs. I. D, Harkle- road, Silverdale, Cowley County; Mrs. B. D. Freeman, Madison, Greenwood County ; Mrs. Mary A. Dowling, Chapman, Dickin- son County; Mrs, )fiu Nurgessen, La Cygne, Linn County, and Mrs. John Stack, Roseville, Shawnee County. There are some ladies who mana, large cattle ranches. Mrs. Lucien Scott, widow of Judge Lucien Scott of Leavenworth, Kans., manages her ranch in the Panhan- dle of Texas, which consists of 260,000 acres, all fenced, and on which there are between 6000 and 7000 cattle. To Sweeten the Ereath. A woman who adores onions and says she would eat them anyhow because of their salutary effect on her complexion avers that the scent can be entirely re- moved, no maiter how they have been served, if you drink a cup of black coffee immediately after eating them. She says, also, that a clove or wintergreen cream will.remove the smell of wine from the breath, and that she uses a gargle of cam- Bhor and myrrh if she gets the idea that er breath is the least bit tainted, Dinner dress of ruby-colored velvet and white satin, trimmed with | fur and embroidery. Bellshaped skirt of ruby velvet, open at the | side over embroidered white satin simulating an underskirt, a border | white cloth adorned with j of which all around below the velvet. the skirt, the fur continuing to the waist. This and the white satin are | 9; Full skirt forming outlined with sable. A knot of black velvet is set above the opening of | cloth parel. fullness of the front s similarly Vet 22 s, e - o) IBNE Lo Visiting toilette composed of cloth in two tones of blue and jet- embroidered white cloth. The front, describing a princess robe, is of etted embroidery, the shoulder-cape match- utings all round. The back of the bodice is full, confined by closely set runnings and a belt of black velvet. The J gathered at either side of the white Sleeves cut on the cross with plenty of fuliness atthe top. OF INTERES? 10 411, WOMEN The fashions of picturesque hats and clothes generally are very fleeting and should not be indulged in by those of | moderate means, as nothing is more de- pressing than to put all one’s money into an article which is so conspicnous that one is known by it for the months one is doomed to wear Ready-made suits in shops often include great bargains, but they must be very carefully chosen, and a little more money expended in having a gown made to order is, as a rule, much more satisfactory. Shirt-waists are a boon to most women. They can be bought ready-made if once the right size is secured, and they are a great addition to a woman’s comfort in hot weather, but do not look well worn without any coat unless the thermometer has climbed up unusually high; then cos- tumes are not severely criticized A tea-gown nowadays is not only a luxury, but a necessity as well, as one can slip such a gown on and off with ease and comfort. A pleasing variety from the prevailing plain skirt is given by having the accordion-pleated net, over fall panels of the striped faille. This plan commends itself for remodeling narrow skirts. A silk lining of stylish fullness is provided and covered with accordion pleating on the front and sides. This pleating may be of any plain fabric—China silk, taffeta, net, chiffon or embroidery—in keeping with the silk of the skirt. The old skirt will then be entirely used for full E] back breadths, which should hang in godet pleats, and form the two panels near the front. Silver combs have strong rivals in those of shell and amber. Grenadines will be worn this summer, but crepons will be more fashionable. A skirt of heavy black gros grain is suitable with various waists, for one in light mourning. The light, tan and beige colors, and the serviceable black and navy serges will be worn again in skirts with ‘shirt-waists dur- inE the coming season. k lawn, striped black and white dimity, also black anM white ginghams, are to be worn by young Jadies in mourning this summe For their pure white dresses nahsook and Victoria lawns are used, also the silk ginghams and cotton crepons. ows of satin ribbon with erectloops The Latest Sleeves. stand high on the shouldersof most girlish gowns. ) A revival of the old-style transparent silk, known long ago as “‘silk tissue,” is noted. Tt is a charming fabric and is not only used for making waists, but the whole gown as well. Tt is softer and more ser- viceable than mousseline de soie and is ex- ceedingly pretty in glossy black grounds strewn with wild roses, green leaves or violets. The flowers are small, prim and regularly set and are in old-fashioned bright colérs. The fabric is three-quarters of a yard wide. Bareges are also recalled in_ semi-trans- Ea_rent woolen stuffs smoothly woven in right colors crossed with threads of black and striped to represent narrow insertions in an_ingenions way by the use of a few fine silk threads. The bolero jacket is to be a thing of the past. Inits place we are to have what is called the “tight-fitting smoking-jacket,” a tightfitting basque coming a Hitcle below the waist. This will be worn with the lingerie blouses, that have been so pretty, with open waists this winter—blouses or chimesettes trimmed with many length- wise rows of dainty lace. z If there is any change in skirts it will be an increase in the fullness. A novelty for spring is what is called “the collarette Va- front of | | | | [ | Spring costume of a new shade of brown, with check formed of fine red lines. The skirt is fastened on the hips in front. Cutaway coat with the mew short full skirt; brown velvet collar. Dainty front of accordion-kilted lace chiffon and Oriental galon. Rose velvet toque, with jet stars and front coronet; black para- dize aigrette. lois"—a collarette that has something of the effect of the fur-like collars with stole-like ends that have been so fashionable this winter. One charmingly pretty one was in gray satin embroidered in_ silver gray and FOld) Fallins it Tonic ents, also Grabroids ered, to the bottom of the skirt. Black crepon_will be the leading fabric for the Lenten days. Bayadere stripes of silk on wool crepon were sudpul.u.!ar last season that they are repeated. omespun and boucle cloth come in most exquisite colorings. They are loosely and roughly woven, but are pleasantly soft to the touch. Novel French knickknacks. — Double photograph screens in gilt bronze; tiny figures in imitation of old silver, holding velvet pincushions (Le Petite Marchande, Le Vanneur, Bebe avec bouquet, etc.); silver sugar-sifters and sugar-tongs of Rus- sian design; bouillie spoons with ivory bowls; Louis XV shell salt-cellars; Limoges vases with Dresden flowers: spill- pots and candlesticks in Sevres blue china, with Croix de Lorraine decoration ; a bronze lamp, the base a graceful representation of a Japanese lily; an exquisite spark guard of gilt bronze, Louis design; a lovely basket in gilt wicker, filled with Nice roses and maidenhair fern, and another crowded with most natural-looking cyclamens; bonbon bags in painted and embroidered satin, new designs; Empire. lamp and candle shades; anew Louis XVI design in silver pocket combs, brushes, glasses, powder - boxes, etc.; a new an charming Japanese candle-shade; em- broidered Japanese silk envelopes, to contain six or a dozen handkerchiefs; and a gold serpent with a sapphire set in the head, forming a watch brooch, are among t\he novelties offered as etreenes this New Y ear. Double-breasted blouse waists novelty shown by London tailors, Green Is forsaken, And yellow’s forlorn, But blue is the lovellest Color that's worn. 3 ~From an old rhyme. At the last Assembly ballin New York Miss Mary Howland’s gown consisted of a very full skirt of pale en moire; bodice of green moire, covere: th white chiffon and trimmed with small pink roses; white satin belt and bow. Mrs. George de Forest wore a gown of pale blue satin, trimmed with point lace; insertions and flounces of white chiffon. Clusters of roses are worn on manf evening dresses, appearing on the shoul- ders and on the front of the corsage. They a;fe used on the skirts also with excellent effect. Kissing a woman’s lips is a great insult in Finland. Drunkenness is very rare among Japan- ese women. The broad-spreading effect so favored of late for hats will continue in_popularity, and the velvet ribbon bows and wide wings are in constant demand. Jeweled effects are a are very popular, and the pins, buckles and | clasps “appear in endless variety of pat- terns, brilliants being specially prominent. _Hats are very gay in coloring, and are either of two colors, or with the brim and crown of differing materials. Many of the large picture hats are finished with' a_deli- cate straw lace edge, fastened with hand- some gimp. Some of the rough straw hats | in two colors are gay to an extreme. Jet and gold are seen in trimming com- | binations,” and also Oriental iridescent beads with gold and jet. Fur trimmings are headed with jet bands, and the fancy for fur is carried so far as to show seal, sable and mink bretelles on white chiffon bodices. | Wiggins—My boy, if you live beyond your income you are bound to come to | grief. S, ditt—My dear fellow, if I had to live within it T would be miserable even now. THE LATEST STATIONERY. Scarlet Leather, White Enamel and Moxno- grammed Paper the Rage. The very latest stationery is plain, rich, eream or white, gloss paper. In one cor- ner at the top are placed the street and number or name of your house and your | crest. In linen paper the same tints of white and cream are the most smart, and the crest in blue, black, bronze, red or duil green is used. On small note size the sim- pleaddress in fine gold or silver seript is pretty. Most truly elegant women whodo not allow “folly to lead to art'’ or caprice of fashion to violate the laws of good taste use only white paper, and indulge the humor or fancy with the use of gay tinted wax, though gold, violet, black or blue is only allowable with white paper. Many people use tinted papers. To women SV HBivi et bt crHiaR i bvinalven byt | use of one color, such as gray, violet or | even tinted papers, the dignified dull blues, stone grays and pale lavender are | th t popular. The gray paper has a | style of its own, and is quite as elegant as white. An ideal writing-desk is a small one of white enamel with many small drawers, | several large ones, and pigeon-holes of every size. All its furnishings are of scar- let leather. There is a pen-rack of leather, with a paper-weight, and inkwell and a jolly bron({)s(‘mtcfi-pad. A big flat biotter has™ corners of leather and a bookleaf cover. A small roller blotter isof bright black. Invariably use tinted papersor a lavish display of wax on white paper. In leather, and even the paper-cutter and stamp-box, etc., are of scarlet. A funn | pen-wiper is made of scarlet flannel, | pinked to shape of a rose or a many-leaved | daisy. From the heart of this gay flower a | scarlet sprite emerges, being firmly glued, and serving to make the pen-wiper stiff | | | | | Double cape in heavy, rich, moire silk, lined | with " currant-red shot silk; chiffon collarette, with bunches af red roses. and solid as well, besides giving it a comi- cal touch. Square envelopes and large sheets of aper, almost square, are used. A curious ancy which one mother had in writing to her daughter at a far-off convent school where all home letters were read was to place a G in the corner of the envelope, as if purely by acci- dent. This meant “Do you want goodies?”’ The girl in turn would scatter through her carefully written gages little scragéy C’s,L’s,V’s and similar hieroglyph- ics. C meant “We want some candy”; L, “We are awfully lonely”; V, “We need a vacation; even a few nia’ fun; do call us home,” and L, “Queer how clothes wear out; we’d Iike a new gown each.” In Paris at one time a language of stamps was quite in vogue. The stamp placed on perfectly straight was a bad sign to the would-be lover, and so on. ile the language of stamf»s may not be a sensible or useful accomplishment, a good deal of character can be read by the paper one uses as well as the handwriting. 'he well-bred woman of society—for she is usually a criterion in such matters, note and letter writing being more of a business than a social form of amusement—uses white or_tinted paper, but alwaysof fine quality, linen or smooth, of the correct shape and unruled. It must also be used with infinite discretion. A mnote must not be written on a sheet of letter paper and no letter should be compressed into the narrow limits of a note, because anote is a few words at most and should nat nearly fill the sheet. 1f it does it ceasesto bea note, and letter paper should be usd. The correct note should always kave the address of the sender either engrossed or written in the right-hand upper corner of the first page. The date should niver be omitted, and Thursday, Wednesday or Tuesday is not enough; the date of the month and the year should be clearly writ- ten. Asall social obligations are debts to society or to ourselves, it is well to be ex- plicit and businesslike in all matters per- taining to engagements and answering or refusing invitations. Aprons. Aprons for nurses are made of two widths of the material used, and are cut from thirty-eight to forty inches long. When finished they usually reach to the bottom of the dress. They have long wide strings, and are trimmed at the bottom with lace, a wide hemstitched hem or em- broidery. Aprons for waitresses are not more than thirty-four to thirty-six imches long, and require only a breadth and a halt of the material. They are finished with a wide hem, or hem and tucks.—Baltimore American. YALE’S Almond Blossom Complexion Cream What is more beautiful than the soft, dimpled, rose-leaf cheeks of aprecious little baby ? Every woman will gladly admit—noth- ing. What would you give to have just such a complexion ? I can distinctly hear the echo of every woman’s answer—every- thing I possess. Now, my dear friend, let me tell you a little secret that is not generally known. Mme. Yale’s Complex- ion Cream will give you just such a complexion as babies have. Clear pink and white, fine-grained and beautiful—just such complexions as inspire the divine feeling of love and make sweethearts and husbands yearn for the tempting kiss. Mme. Yale attributes the beauty of her complexion to the constant use of this delicious cream. Her fame has been’ heralded from ocean to ocean by all the lead- ing newspapers of the world, who publicly declare her to be the most beautiful woman on earth. Yale’s Almond Blossom Cream IS PURE. It is cleansing, heal- ing and refreshing. Try a jar and be convinced and beautified at the same time. Price $1. For sale by druggists and deal. ers everywhere, or MME. M.YALE, Temple of Beauty, 146 State st., Chicago. REDINGTON & CO., Wholesale Drug= gists, San Francisco, are supplying the dealers of the Pacific Coast with all of my remedies. OPENING, MONDAY AND TUESDAY, MARCH 11 AND 12, I WILL MAKE A SPECIAL EXHIBIT OF FRENCH PATTERN BONNETS AND HATS S AN LATEST NOVELTIES IN MILLINERY. P. F. BUTLER, 808 MARKET STREET, PHELAN BulLbING. A Skin of Beauty Is a Joy Forever, R. T. FELIX GOURAUD’S ORTEN D CREAM,or MAGICAL BEADT’;‘:]TEA!{: 9 Removes Tan, Pimples, Freck. fhles, Moth Paiches, Rash and Skin diseases, and Yev blemish on beauty, and defieg detection. On g virtues it hag 8t00d the test of 44 years, no other hes, and s s Larmless we tast it 10 be sure 1t ia properly made, fccept 1o coun: eit. of - similar 51 ', < Beautifies the Ski; No other cosmet will do it. A. Sayre said 1o ey 124Y 01 the hauz. o3 will wse the as the least nm»,':v'}u‘( One bottle will last six 180 Foudre Subtile hout injury to the 37 Great Jonesst. . nd Fancy Goods Dias: Wik (a patient): “As you lad recommend *Gowraud's Crecim’ of alt Skin preparation: months, using it every day, A; femoves superfiuous” hair wit n, FERDT.HOPKINS, Prop! For sale by all Druggists thi 4 ers throughout the U ‘anadas and l':urul;:c Bewarc of Base mitatios fOr arrest and proof of any one seliing pnic 8 ! P