Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, January 30, 1916, Page 19

By Lady Duff-Gordon (“LUCILE") ERE 1 show you & couple.of the H new coats with hoods. The largest figure is a roomy, com- fortable and ueeful garment, which, at the same time, has all the.charm of a walking dress. Notice the arrangement of ribbons in front. The hood can, if it 1s desired, be slipped entirely over the charming little “topper” and then these, ribbons tied in place around the face. The little picture shows a back view of this same coat and reveals how the hood falls when not in use. The last photograph is one of the hood coats with the hood in place. This s one’' whole combination coat, shaped somewhat llke a suit. In this climate it s true that only occasionally do m have use for hoods in walking, but when you do need them you need them badly. On the other hand, these garments are wonderfully adapted for motoring or for any outdoor sports in Wiates. As.in all of women's clothes, there s & determined effort toward individu- ality in the coats of the season. No longer is & coat simply a coat to be thrown on as necessity démands—look- ing like ten thousand other coats. It is & creation—something that, while useful, must also be beautiful, and, as 1 have said, individusl. One new coat of velour cloth, in that deep warm brown tinged with gold and just warmed, too, with a touch of red— Natare's triumph of tinting in wall- flower blossoms having been taken as « model by Art—has just a great collar A Charming Mid-Winter Coat That Com- bines the Charm of the Walking Dress . 'llfilhd-llau. nuuuo--dmucwmwu-hc.-n.su”dwmun ADY DUF'F-GORDON the Tamous “Lacile™ and - fore- most uulor of l-hl_ou in the writes each week the fashion dr- this. newspaper, presenting all that is mewest and best in - styles fdr well- dresed women. Lady Duff-Gordon's Paris establishment her into close touth with that centre of fashion, Lady Duff-Gordon’s American estab- lishments are at Nos. 37 and 39 West fil -seventh street, New York, and No. Lake Shore Drive, Chicago. and deep cuffs of beaver and' pompon buttons to match at the neck and on the. wide belt. Next, a bottle green velour -actually. dispenses with fur altogether, its high collar being kept in position, high about the wearer’s chin, by two big amber buttons, and the belt taking the quaintest one-sided curve in front, after haeving been carried in a high point al- most reaching to the collar at the back. To make up for this deprivation, how- ever, apother model of dahlia purple velour measures no less than four and a half yards at the hem, and s there bordered with a twelvednch band of seal musquash. “Some” trimming, this! And “some” bill to be pald by the woman who eventually owns and wears ft—or the husband who “owns” the wearer! ¥ A quaint scheme there is, too, in a coat of purple velour, which s deeply bordered at the hem with a band’ of seal musquash, though its eacircling career is divided and disgulsed at the sides by a wide, loosely hanging panel of plain cloth, beneath which the waist- band is also passed. Culfs and collar, too, there are of the same adaptable and satin-soft fur, which is put to final and effective use ‘for the making of pompon buttons. By the way, the same model looks well in soft green velour and mole fur. Another and quite pleasant possibility for the woman who wants—or is rather compelled—to be economical is the coat of ponyskin cloth, which is such a real- istic and, incidentally, raln-resisting substitute for the actual fur, skunk or opossum belng generally used for its trimming, and being its worthy match, alike in effectiveness and economy. ‘Then, as regards the fur coats, their very latest and most decorative devel- opment is a full length—and, of course, full skirted—affair of seal musquash, which shows the somewhat uncommen contrast of the gray squirrel in the high collar and the wide banding at the hem, a narrow belt of the soft gray fur being also introduced at the side seams nnd fastened in front. A broadtall model gives further proot of the new favor for this very sensible and smart length, which, in addition to belng more protective, {s also more be- coming to the average figure than the full three-quarter coats, which display a few inches of skirt, also full and short—and by this same “cutting” make the least, instead of the most, of the wearer's actual Inches. In this case and coat the contrast fur,for the trim- ming is a sflky, soft black fox, which forms a flounce above the hem, and also & curious and very pretty collar carried high up at the back and eides, and then curving sharply downward in front, where, however, the broadtail is but- toned closely up to the throat. Copyrisnt. U180y By Sady wuff =9@n°@@m A Back View of the Coat, Showing the Arrangement of the Hood Pusres . oy Buaka Arwee CHiIcago. e (One of the New Full-Length Fur-Trimmed "NCM" With the Old-Fashioned Fur-Trimmed Hood (“Lucile” Models) How You Can Tell When There's Something Wrong With Your Nerves By Dr. Leonard Hirshberg, A.B., M. A,, M. D. HEN a doctor is unable.to W put the blame upon the true Inwardness of a disease, he often tells you the patient is “only nervous,” ; has = ‘“neurasthenfa.” s “peurotic.” suffers with a “func- tional nervous malady,” is afflicted with “nerves” or “imagjnes” things. 1t you go to twenty doctors, and each in turn tells you that your ail- ment s something of this sort, then, say 1, go to a twentyfirst or even a fittieth ~until you, find_ a- physician who {s capable of telling you hon- estly what {s actually the matter with you, Socrates set the pace for such carelessness, when he said, “See one promontory, one mountain, oné sea, one river, and see all.” As a mat- ter of fact, there are no two things alike under the sun, and individuals, like diseases, all differ. There are, however, many real maladies of the nerves, brain. and spinal cord. Each, moreover, has a name far more exact than the words ‘nervous,” ‘“‘neurotic” or ‘“neuras thenje Many doctors are llke juries Thev ignore the foot-rules and yard- stieks, which are at hand to give a precise measurement of a brain or Nerve disease, and Instead, use some inaccurate standard, such as the length of your arm or the first joint of the thumb. In other words, it & man tells them he is sane or is nervous, they are keen to agree with him Instead of applying the meas urements . which _knowledge has given Recently a paranolac demanded to be taken fro man insane hospital and tried before a jury as to his sanity Psychiatrists who know the tests which reveal paranola pro- nounced him a paranolac. Para; nolacs are dangerous to those around, for they are very skilful in concealing their delusions i Ktar Company. Oreat Britain Rights Resersed ¥ (Johns Hopkinsg University). But the jury sald he was sane and set him free. Three days later the “sane” man killed a mother-and her three children. This is not unusual. The popular opinion ' is that a person must be either “peculiar,” “eccentrie. In & fine frenzy, maniacal or melancholic to be crazy. Strange as' it may seem, the most dangerously insane persons do not have their intelligence disturbed a bit. The hidden, unspoken dejusion of vengeance upon unknown or stfange persons is nursed, arranged and directed with the sxill and fore- thought of a great executive, David Graham Phillips and President Win fam MecKinley were shot by such maniacs. Real disorders of the nerves, how- ever, cannot be so successfully con- cealed as lunacy. The differénce between the doctor's guéss that you are a “neurasthenic” or “bundle of nerves” and the actual affection of nerve tissue is open and above board True injury to the nerves is shown by twitching of the muscles. There may be tremors when the muscles are in motion or when at rest. There are fiblllary waves over the tongue. There I8 a tendéncy of the eyes to be crossed or one eyelid to droop more than another. The eyes may be abnormally bright or dull. The handwriting exhibits vibrations and oscillations I.ight flashed into the puplls of the ayes falls to contract them. Dark- ness has no effect to make them dilate. If a crack across the front of the knee falls to make the leg jerk, it means serious changes in the sense nerves or ‘the back of the spinal cord. Locomotor ataxia, diabetes, lead poisoning, alcoholic poisoning and paresis are a few of the nerve degenerations which show these rymptoms. When the tongue is poked out and ®oes more to one side than ' the other: when you can laugh only on one side of the face; when one arm or leg is shorter, shrunken or slight- . Iy doubled up: .when the gait be- comes | changed-—real dfsorders of the nerves are present. A stamping gait: keeping the eyes always on the ground: rigidity and stiffn fn the musc faclal paralysie; telegraphers’, plano play- ors', writers' and typists' finger and hand palsies; ntrokes of paralys drop-foot—all these are due to nerve changes. But many of the alleged “nervous attacks,” neurasthenias. and the large host of so-called neurotic and Liaginary - or functional nervous disturbances have no meore to do with the nerves, brain' and spinal cord than they have to-do with the Lone or gristle, Such maladies are caused by chemical substances, one of which s called di-lodo-di-hydroxy-indol, just discovered by Professor Kei dall, the physiological chemist, as the source of activity of the magical thyroid gland. - When these chemi. cals from the thyroid,. thymus, ad- renal and other of the many human glands flow too freely or too abun. dantly, or, on the other hand, too slightly, odd feelings and surgings, overpowering .emotions rush like torrents upon the senses, and you are undone and not yourself untf)! they are corrected. This new discovery of Professor Kendall, who is the laboratory man at the great Mayo brothers’ clinics, is expected to lead very shortly to the invention .of chemistries that will not only cure doctors of wrong- ly blaming the nerves for so-called “neurasthenia.” but will also cure, the vietims of these emotional des rangements, [