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A SQUAW OF THE HITTALAYAS (Copyright, 1910, by Frank G. Carpenter.) ARJEELING, 1910.—(Special respondence of The Bee.)—I am in the attic of Asia, under the very eaves of the roof of the world. All about me rise the highest of the Himalaya moun tains, thelr silvery crowns shining like dia- monds under the tropical sun. At the west 1 can look for miles over bare granite sum- mits against a ragged wall of perpetual snow. It is the same at the north. The mountains rise over this wall. | Iers they Xkiss the sky, there they plerce the opales- cent clouds, and farther on stand out ragged shafts of silver against the hlue That mighty mass at the north is Kunchin janga, over five miles in height, and this morning I stood on Tiger Hill and saw the sun gild the summit of Mount Everest, which is nearly six miles above the level of the sea. From Tiger Hill T could count & half dozen peaks, any one of which is higher than the topmost point of the North American continent, and several of which reach above the height of any other part of the globe. Mount Everest measures 2 feet, Kunchinjanga 2817, Janu Gabru 24015. And then there mountains in sight of over 23,000 feet. They are higher than any peak of the Andes, and in the same vicinity are a half dozen others of 22,000 and more. Cor- three Among the Mighty Himaluyas. It is impossible to comprehend the im mensity of the Himalaya mountains. They are so great that you could scatter the other mountains of the world through them and hardly affect the sizge of the chain. You could drop the Alps into their valleys, and a few miles away you could not notice the addition. Mount Everest is, of all land, the nearest point toward heaven. It s more than double the height of Fujiyama, the sacred mountain of Japan. You could put another Pike's Peak on tho top of our big mountain near Denver and it would not reach as high, and the snows crowning Mount Blanc are at least 10,000 feot lower. If you should ascend Mount Blano and by a fiying machine go straight upward for more than two miles you would not yet reach the altitude of Kunchin- Jangh. It is more than a mile and a half higher than Mount McKinley, the giant of Alaska, and Mount Kverest, 1,000 feet above 1t, caps the world. I have seen all of the greatest tains of the globe. As a boy 1 walked across the Alps trom Italy to Switzerland and climbed the glaciers of Mount Blanc Later I visited almost every part of our Rocky mountaln plateau, and during trips to Asia saw the mighty hills of IHawail and the Philippines. As & newspaper cor- Tespondent, I traveled through the Andes from Panama to Patagonla, and it was ouly & year or so ago that I was writing letters for you on the highlands of Africa under the shadows of Mount Kenia and Mount Killmanjaro. Of all the great heights, I find the Him- alayas the most difficult to describe. Their grandeur is oppressive and their immensity beyond human conception. And still, they are not the most beautiful. The finest of the world's mountains in point of form and symmetry are Fujlyama, in eastern Japan; Mount Cook, in northern New Zea- land; Mount Moyon, the chief volcano of southern Luzon, and our own Mount Ta- coma, on the shores of Puget Sound. As to glaciers, those of the Himalayas are greater than the ice rivers of tha Alps. They surpass in size the glaciers of New Zealand, and, I doubt not, those in Alaska as well. There are glaciers here which are from thirty to sixty miles long, and one in particular, which is thirty-three miles in length and flanked on either side by giant peaks, each more than five miles In height. These glaciers are mountains of ice, often as ragged and rugged as the snow-capped peaks hanging over them. — Above Clouds. e Himalayas might be called the father of India. They protect the country, and it 18 largely due to them that it is able to support one-fifth of the human race. They extend like & mighty wall across Hin- dustan, shutting it out from the rest of Asia. This wall is intensely cold, and against it come the warm winds loaded with the moisture of the Ihdian ocea As they strike it the molsture condenses and falls down in floods, watering the great plains below. There is no place on the globe which has such & rainfall parts of the Himalaya mountains. Here at Darjeeling it Is more than 60 Inches a year, and there are other regions where there are fifty feet of rain every twelve wmonths. These winds keep the greater part of the mountaines enveloped in clouds, and this adds to the beauties of the scenery. moun- The Himalayas ‘wave 1,000 clouds where the Alps have one, and as you ride through them you see clouds of all kinds and shapes chasing eac over the hills. They crawl up the of the valleys, they climb to your and wrap themselves around ten minutes the mist s 80 thick that you can hardly see the ears of the horse you are riding. Then all at once you burst out into the open. A cloud has gone by and it floats up toward the snows. other sides feet you. For In my ride to Tiger and below hill T had clouds above me, and I could see the ghostly masses of vapor resting in the hollows as though taking a siesta. As the sun came up tinged them with fire, spotting the mountains with gold. At the same time there were opalscent clouds at my right and my left, and clouds over- head, above which, at the breaks, the snowy peaks could be seen On the Moun coming n Raflway. In here from Calcutta I most of the way through the clouds. The sun was at its hottest when we passed out of the plains of the Ganges and came to the foot of the mountains. The way up was all lights and shadows. Now the sun shone, and now the rain came down In tor- rents. We soon had c.ouds above and be- low us, and farther up often lost sight of the engine in the vapor which enveloped the train 1 shall makes hood Bauge, length rode hever forge think of the track is a engine is the cars that railroad. It toys of his two-toot about ten feet in are plgmies in parison with our American coaches The way up,is a series of corkscrew curves, ziggags and Y's. The train goes about like a snake and the cars are so I that they look like links of a chain the ends of which now and then seem to touch re are a dozen horseshoe curves every mile and you make figure §'s several times in your drunken climb up the hill As you rise you can see the road cutting terraces on the mountains below. You shoot under a hill and come out into a loop, and then cross your own track by a bridge overhead. The Y system is frequently used, and there are double Y's whicl Vvate you from one level to another. The cars do not make more than six miles an hour. They are open and you can s6a out on all sides. You skirt precipices covered with green, down which you look for a thoufand feet, and climb along the sldes of the mountains above valleys which @re lost in the plains of Bengal. The rafl road was bullt upon a wagon road which led up from Darjeeling, and you can see as well as though you were in a carriage. There are villages here and there along the way, and the trains stop now and then so that the passengers may ferns. one The the and boy- narrow com- h ele- pick flowers and Through Jungle La In this raiiroad ride I came through the torrid and temperate zones and stepped out Into a land of snow. Calcutta is in the tropics. We rode over hot olains, through patches of rice and bananas, into @ jungle of bamboos, banyans and other tropical foliage. The foothills are clad with such trees, and the first ranges, reaching a4 mile and a half above the plain have magnificent forests bedded in mosses and ferns. The limbs of the trees are loaded with orchids, and here and there are tree ferns with trunks as thick as a telegraph vole and almost as tall. The fern leaves come out from the top like those of & palm As you rise the color of the moss on the trees canges from green to light gray; it hangs from the branches in clusters not unlike the moss of Georgia and Florida and the green appears to be dusted with silver Higher still there are hard woods much like those of our American mountains; the roses bloom and there are tea plantations clothing the hills. Tea grows to an eleva- tion of almost a mile. The trees and hardy &rains rise & mile higher and it is not until thres miles that the hardy shrubs disap- pear. 1 am told that & few flowers are stll found at almost four miles above the sea. BT Tigers of the Feothills. As we rode through the jungle I looked out for the tigers, which the trainmen tell me are frequently seen. There are many of them in the lowlands, and they hug the base of the mountalns. There is a region here covered with bamboo cane and grass which is Infested not only by tigers, also by buffalos, bears, deer and wild hogs. The cane grows to a helght of forty feet and the grass is so high that sitting on horseback you cannot reach the tops of the stalks. The tigers are hunted every- where, but they are still #0 numerous that, coag according to or 90 persons year. The men, but they are crazy the government o are killed by beasts do not usually attack it they once taste human blood for it thereafter 1s known to have Kkilled natives within twelve month 108 in a space of three yoars agents of the Indian forestry tells me that about 2000 tigers every year and that the government a reward for every bast destroyed The tigers of India are magzuificent are not equal to those of Manchuria. a found in the inountaf high as two miles, but even that elevation does not cause the fur to grow as the cold winters of north China Mongolia, and the best skins the latter locality. The male (igers of the Himalayas welgh up to about 00 pounds ach, and the females to about 100 Hounc less, Many are caught and to the gardens of the recoras them cvery the and anot! One of ths department are killed but The. as so long and come from her shipped zoological world's MAY great they their the clties, will some of them jump at you if wounding th so I rce that come near cages, against selves rjecling. I am This is a summer of the Indian lowlands, hotels, ished well situated here In for nd i Darjeeling British has excellent fine residences and numerous furn- which are the are also hospitals and sana villas There let out for senson tariums. There «- whole is a little heart of the Himalayas., T ed with & arc many pretty There are seves and the ice of the are ther publie garden utsid, * bulld iron, but and b roc vanized cottages several churches, end military camp sity the town. Among the finc place is that of the lleutenant Bengal, who s here every also a ated homes in the governor of about four montis One of the sights of Darjeeling is the 8, 1910. LOOP OIN THE HIMALAYA NARROW CAUGE hazar by the is the tilled with natives for market day town s thronged Traders come here from are Nepalese, Lepchas There natives from slopes of Mount Bv as well from the 200 tea plantat nearby ¢ traders and patronized miles around. Sunday and at this time the with Himalayans. Thibet, and there and Bhotiyans, are Sikkim and the ekt as laborers Muscular Mountalin I find these Iispeciaily the women. You have heard of the strength of the girls of Tibet, where the wife bosses the household, even though four hus! judge tine Maidens. natives most interesting she has three or what 1 see here 1 true. These girls American nds. From statement fs coull handle the average husband and between I found a scor ot when my trunk ut 5 cents, rest at the dey 1 arrived and hired one to carry to the hotel. The to take it way was the steep. shie agreed up hill for - Curious and Romantic Capers of Cupid On the Installment Plan. ATTHEW BALTHIZ of Granite City, Mo., who saved for years In order to marr provide a home for Miss Mary Ivanchev, a Hungarian girl, suld her on the installment plan to another man in Kenosha, Wis. Miss Ivan chev © to this country week Balthiz says. to wed him, diated this agreement She left Granite City several days ago with George Shiroki, who pald Balthiz $3) down and signed an agreement to pay $ monthly until a total of 385 was paid. Balthiz, the disappointed, insisted for hours in demanding $150 for rights to the girl, but Shiroki g0 that h Balthiz based his demand upon the®fact he had gone to the expense of furnishing a house for the girl, and that use for the furniture While the two would-be-bridegrooms were haggling over the price, the girl was near by, waiting to know which she was to wed. Wher her purchase price was settled she walked meekly to a marriage license bu- reau, did her part toward getting the li- cense: and then followed the successful bidder to a priest, where they were ried. five ma six but ago, she repu- his would not he has no mar Wireless Proposa The wireless proposal is the lutest wrinkle in matters matrimonial. Tt has been tested and found not wanting by no less & person than Miss Louise Gaylord, daughter of Mrs. Charles Adams of Ken{lworth, reports the Chicago Record Herald That wireless telegraphy for a-tenderer purpose than summoning help to a disabled ship became known when the engagement of Miss Gaylord to Walter F. Dilingham of Honolulu was an- nounced. The bare announcement did mot include the great feature of the romance but friends of the young wdman added the detafls, which show that this engagement could not have taken place in any other century, for Mr. Dilingham proposed and was accepted in distant Honolulu, while Miss Gaylord was miles away in midocean They had known each other threc days only. Last September Mrs. Adams, who s the wife of Dr. Charles Adams and & sister of John J. Mitchell, president of the 1li- may be used tnois Trust and trip round th two children. lord, 1In Linn and he Dotothy Linn, The and bank, left for a nied by her and Hary also My [ sSaving glube Mi party were accompe Louise Guy ihe two and ached but Mr. Harvard graduate slonary, was Gaylord, They of the party remained there Honolulu In October three days. While Dillingham, who is a and the son of a noticeably attentive to they were mis Mis were much together, but suspected that there the no; any attitude After Linn, Japan cleared party purpose in serlous young man's three days with their ¢ and the east the harbor b the operator, who was engaged in recelving wircless ages from the shore, down the most surprising telegram it ever been his lot to transmit This message was addressed 1o Miss ( lord and signed by Mr It read “Will you my wife?" Miss Gaylord thought is over the shock had subsided one word “Yes." Mr. Dillingham Mrs, for not when Adams and afl had hours set ship many mes took had ay- was DIllingham. be a bit after and then sent the explained contritely enough afterward that he hadn't himselt krown how hard he was hit until the ship had welghed anchor, and he couldn't wait for the post Mrs. Adams, with her two children, now 15 in Paris. On May 2 the wedding will take place at Villa Pletra, Florence, Ita the home of Mr. and Mrs. Arthur Acton, the latter being a sister of Mrs, Adams. Married Forty: Ludwig Lewisohn of Newark, N. J., a German professor and writer, born in Ber- lin thirty years ago, claims the unique distinction of being ried to his wite in every state in the union except New York He has just added New Jersey to the list, the nuptial knot being tied for the forty-fourth time. This raises the question: Can & man legally marry his own wife? Lewisohn, with his wife walked into the county clerk's office and asked for a mar- riage license. Lewisohn said that he was eager to get & certificate which would add ‘our Times. this sfate to the list. When h official that he was stopping tempovarily in the Washington hotel, the clerk direcied him to the office of a ju tice of the peace, and the German ated the of his marriages “The laws of New York liar and I shall some d ed there,” said Lewisohn am not violating there in 12" The bride said her malden nam Mary Arnold Crocker that was (64 West One Hundred First street. New York Cit Lewisohn removed the band the bride’s finger and, while tk performing the ceremony. (he and appeared as happy first venture, told the again 1oy story are very pe have the Knot “1 feel that [ any law; what harm is and Seventy- her ring from justice was smiled their coupie as If it was a Divore Announcement comes from Northampton, Mass., that Mrs. Helen M. Cook Walters of Chicago and Theodore Addis Rycrson were married there on April 1 by Rev. Dr John Breaker, thus adding another chapte to a romance exploited at legnth r cently In the New York courts, where Mrs. Walters obtained a judgment of $3,000 in her suit for $50,000 for alleged br of promise against Mr. Ryerson The trlal of the sult, beginning last March 7, brought forth many love lette from Mr. Ryerson, who Is & young broker But they did fease him. He sald he meant every word of them, and was will ing any time to marry,the plaintiff. He sald that the reason he had not done so was because he decided that on his in come he could not properly support her The fair plaintiff was equally as candid and sald she still loved the defendant. All during the trial it was expected that th trial would suddenly terminate in a wed- ding, but the young woman refused to wed at that time. March 9 a verdiet was returned in favor for $3,000. Ryerson had thirty in which to pay, but a few days later, ac- cording to Mirabeau Townes, the plaintiff's lawyer, Ryerson's father pald the judg- ment in full. Mr. Ryerson's parents sald at their home In New Brunswick today that the broker was in New York and expressed surprise when told that he had married Mrf Walters. ihe some ach not her days MALAYAS HAVE GLACIERS THIRTY-THREE MILES LONG i [ .. and toted it there on her back. The women are the drays of Darjeeling, and the road carts well. They carry the dirt for re- pairing the streets, digging It out of the hiils with pickaxes and shoveling it into great baskets fastened by a strap over the forehead to the backs of human drays. ch basket holds two three hels, and, well filled, will weight more than 10 pounds. The girl stands with the basket on her back while loading, and she may, perhaps, have @ baby in her arms These great weights, and I that one has been known to tak x cottage plano on her back twelve mile the mountain. 1 doubted this for a but not Thelr mighty s ild hodies and great calves and such that T verily believe they these women earry am told up time now ers, strong hodies ankles ar could move mountains, 1 saw one plodding ip the hills this morning, carrying a bas- two of which would have a mule. ket of cordwood been a good load fd of th Rirls like our Tn the copper high check bones, semi strafght black hair mind the prettiest nave seer may have df the native belle of Darjec add two pounds of ounce of flesh and make brighter and her These mountain jewel The poorest d anklets of siiver, trunk to the Squnws These Himala dians. They plexions, the flat and It you will keep in look have same com- ame noses loni you vou 1y You must to each the inte ever a fair Ing. about jewelry the eyes of 100k squaw more gent girls loaded with of them has earrings ¢ and the beauty hotel was so loaded with chains that jingled as Bl T e ns as big as that many bracelets are who took my coins and she who 0-cent they other ornaments she the have strings of silver cc thelr ne and there anklets and leglets, They dlso wear of glass and turquolse. The one of the cheapest of the semi-precions stones of the Himalayas. It s found in Tibet and brought over the mountains for sale. of the earrings are four or five Inches long and so heavy that the pull down the lobes. They also circlets of coral, amber or fade about their heads and have belts with gold or clasps. The the savings of the family, when a made it is in the shape of a gold or ornament for her tramped up women hung to ks 80 the bust pieces over who wear and earrings ornaments furquolso 13 Some wea silver woman s bank and new deposit s silver Like the Mongol The men of the Himalayas are like our Indians, only not sq tall. They of the Mongols and other natives borders of Siberia, leadiug to the that the American aborigines came the Himalayas and went northward America across Bering stralt. Among tribes near here are the Lepchas and Bhotiyans, both considerably shorter than our western Indlan. The Leychia women wear their hair braided In talls which hang down their backs, and the Bhotiyans paint their taces with brown varnish and remind one along the bellef from into the EVEREST CAPS THE WORLD" and turquoise As round their head look fierce. Thev wear balls of coral as marbles on string The men of both tribes curved knives in their belts, d when drunk carve up or another v are sald to be bullies and wife beaters, and the woman has to fight for her rights. She often marrles four brothers and sometimes has them all to support Business in the H alayas. I wigh I could take you Into their ba and show you how business is done in ’ midst of the Himalaya mountains. Yoj can hear the pcople bargaining long befora you get to the place. Every trade draws & crowd and the people shout out their views hig carry as to the goods and the prices. The market covers scveral acres. It tilled with the grou with their wares piled about them. He the women are selling smearcase, as we call it out in Obio, They have great crocks of snow white curds, which they serve out to their customers in boxes or leaves. Fur- ther on are men with chickens and pigs, and at the right is the open-air butcher, who will kill & sheep upon order and give you a chop hot from the loin, There are Tibetans with prayer wheels, with which you can make something like ten prayers a minute. Th of a pint cup or smaller and about twice as deep. They of copper and have Tibetan stamped In the Inside roll of the prayers most efficlent in the Buddhist re ligion. The box is piefced by a wire stuck through the and this s fastened to long. By a twist round the wire and at within supposed to g0 up to Buddha and to wipe away the There are many ¥ the market, some of them lamas who have come down from Tibet. They are beggars who bellow for alms. 1 under India and the Himalayas | into traders seated on wheels are hoxes the size are or brass, characters metal each box 18 a center a handle about a foot of the handle the box roll the rolls are eve prayers the sins of owner adhist priests in mostly the the reasing he et tand that trade betwoer the tribes on side of recen have expeditions opened markets, apd a considerable busine done at Darjeeling The Tibetans skins, tea, salt and woak dried fruits cotton gouds and also ivory indigo iquors. Much of the trade is carricd on by Mohammedan far now end down musk as well as ponies, take back sugar of all kind madder and So there I8 no wagon road between Darjeeling o The ried over the mountaing on the backs of Wome 1d Lhassa s are aks o1 and me the Jelap than three miles in b and Is open all the year round. 1 most of them come by which s less here to the seen. beling it 0, about five ¢ays' march from pass and once through it Tibet can be I am told that.a wagon road is planned to go over that routJglnd Tibet will become open to al FRANK G. CARPENTER . ’