Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, April 24, 1910, Page 37

\ —— THE_OM. \II\ QI 24, 1910, SV Simple and Crirlish. Ty pe Ascending JVote 1:l Coiffueres Is Showz an This Jloael : HE coiffures and millinery of this season are arranged on the ascending scale, and the new hairdressing describes a conical shape gradually rising from just above the brow. Always in agreement, the milliners and halrdressers are once more marching to- gether in their new designs. The crowns of the hats are necessarily rising above the chevelures they cover, though the hat must still be worn low over the head if fashion is to he satisfied. A decided revolution in halrdressing has occurred in~the last few weeks. The ubiquitous swirl, the hideous braids that fat women seemed piteously ad- dicted to, and the turban modes have now all departed into the limbo of fashions forgotten. It 45 one of the glaring sarcasms of dress how a woman with a fat, pudgy form and face is not con- tent until she has topped it all with a fat, pudgy, brald colffu But even the fat woman will have to drop the bralded colffure this spring. It has been unanimously voted against from the start. There are few, i any, faces that 100k well when framed in such a colffure. It is too snug. too upholstered. It had nothing artistic to recommend it. It did not suit the American face. It is the style of hair that goes with the passive, saintly type, and there is nothing of these qualities In the American face In any class of life, L Hair dressing, If rightly understood, is the art of face framing. The natural headcovering should pro- vide a proper setting for the face and its expression. As every face has its own peculiarities of shape and features, It stands>to reason that a suitable arrange- ment of the hair must take them into account. Every woman should be a law unto herself when adapting a colffure style to herself. Look at any group of fine portraits of beautiful women, how many conventional coiftures can you find among them? Hardly one, So much of beauty is fitness, and jt is the general har- mony of, these beauties' appearance, the tactful ad- justment of a fashion to their needs, that makes them instantly pleasing. - In the first place, before deciding on the style of hairdressing, one must conslder the shape of her face. Is your chin of the kind known as square, and the contour of your face in consequence inclined to be angular? If it Is an approximate square outline, seen full face, the arrangement of your front hair will mitigate the harshnegs of line. Whether you wear a pompadour or part your halr, you will be wise to keep it flat on top, and, while dllowing it to stand out on either side, do not. let it extend to the dimen- slons of a flare This arrangement should be freer and softer In proportion as the square face is long and thin, Exag- Kerated looseness emphasizes hollow cheeks, just as they are made prominent by too severe treatment. 18 the chin noticeably tapering, and do the cheek bones by comparison seem unduly broad? Then this defect must be corrected. A low, flaring pompadour or broadly waving coifture will, by contrast, appear to diminish the breadth in the upper part of the face and narrowing this space has the effect of lessening the sharp point of the chin, which consequently to the eye becomes more blunt and round, * % An exceedingly round face is best treated by a low pompadour, After studying the shape of her face, one should notice how her head is sot.on the shoulders. Is the meck ahort and the distance from shoulder to +) s Y L QIS V)SV;X V'l‘ngm@wi' Bawshits Somymend, BY WARY ETLEANOR @' DOWNELL in dapta:czon of the rptian Coifferrre A F’quy;y Fringe [SEVDM his Summer ' crown short also? ing the hair high. Is the neck loug and thin? Its awkwardness will be to a certain extent obviated by dressing the hair mod- erately low and by accentuating a horizontal line in the disposition of the hair, both in the front and at the sides. In any case, it i3 advisable to brush the hair at the side of the head horizontally, as it seems to keep the features In better relation to each other. If the hair seen In profile makes a sharp diagonal line from brow to neck, it is likely to thrust the chin forward, while @ perpendicular line, so common in connection with the pompadour, makes the nose prom- inent. Half the charm of the new graceful Psyche knot—graceful when properly handled—Is due to the long, wavy, horizontal line over the ears, Fashion today demands that the hair be dressed as high as possible and that the colffure be simple. The important thing to bear in mind is that the shape of the head must be emphasized. The styles are many, their adaptation almost infinite, and whether they are becoming depends upon judgment and taste, whether they are artistic depends upon fashion's requisites of grace, simplicity, and shapeliness. Among the new modes the Aureole is gaining ad- miration. The front halr is waved in great matural looking undulations and is turned straight back from the brow. In other cases it Is broken by a parting, but invariably there are the blg ondules which so wonder- tully soften the features and Improve the appearance. * % The short, thick curls that cluster in profusion on the nape of the neck are also shown and recall ths Eugénle curl of graceful mien worn by the empress of the French and copied everywhere by those who hold this beautiful woman to be the best critlc of dress and the most exquisitely garbed woman of the last Length must be gained by dress- S High Hair Dress inz CbIoznal Lines. & century. This style has great merits for evening wear and will be pofular indeed here has been much talk during the last year of the fringe returning. It is shown again this spring. There is nothing stiff and heavy and straight about it, nt o itrary, to a woman with a high forenead, tis be becoming fn its new gulse, which Is decide , wavy, and airy ® % The large pompadours are entirely out. But in puff- ng the hair at the sides rats are still used. This is a ensible idea, for it is far better to use a good rat than to rough the X Roughing the hair Is a thing that many women understand to their sorrow. They ~ take a strand of hair, turn it down over the face, run the comb backwards over it, and produce a rough arl. Then they toss it back and pin it in place. It makes the halr*ook fluffy, but at a rulnous expense, for it breaks the halr and makes it dry and snappy. 1t is rather diicult to describe in just what essen- tials the ultra new coiffure differs from the one we wore last year when a pyramid of puffs was in fashion. Possibly the only difference is the flattened top effect around the line where the halr grows. Last ear this rose in a huge mass to meet the puffs that wero placed In the middle of the head, but now it Is minus the roll or crépe, which Is used only at the sides % Another difference s the method of bullding the pyramid at the back. Last year flat, neat, regular puffs were used, and they were pinned to the head and surrounded by a pompadour. Today the puffs are open at one end, merely curled around the finger and left loose. They are mounted on a cushion of false hatr that carries them far out and up from the head. Young girls wear this cushion of finger puffs and curls to extend over the whole top of their heads, eaving merely line of their own hair to show ind the face and neck 1l the styles of this season the ears are well hid, seldom are pretty, and in all art galleries it will be found that ears are generally pretty well con- cealed on the_pictures. When the halr Is puffed out at the sides a few scallops of halr are pulled down carefully to cover the cars partially. Among the new hair ornaments are the silver gal- loon bandeau, fastened at the side with a gluster of silver grapes and loops of silver; lmwkn..x‘\q black sequins mounted on wired black net; filigred silver bandeau with spray of silver wheat at left front; slender wreath and algrette of briar roses; circles to A /ldaptarlon of the Grecian Style go around Psyche knot or around head, in gold, silver, or oxldized tissue; soft quills of gold blade grass with bows at side and bandeau of gold galloon. In combs only three kinds are used. The first is the plain and piped band style, worn singly or in sets consisting of a back comb and side combs. The sec- ond is the ball topped comb; this is worn in the back, either above or below the curls The third style is the scroll sawing effect in combs, and is light and graceful. Barrettes are extremely large and plain. LI No fashion that Is revived arrlves in exactly the guise of its former appearance, o that tne curls of tn- day are not the corkscrews of a century ago, nor do they cluster in loose profusion above the ears. But once more the modern novelist will be able to emulate those of mid-Victorian years and to describs his heroine as shaking “her ringlets roguishly.” and it may happen that the sentimental custom of cherishing a lock of hair will return, for it would seem that the appealing ringlet was responsible for the lover's delight in such treasure long years ago. But again let the warning be urged that fashion never repeats itself slavishly, and hence it is that the ringlets are introduced in a number of new ways, and usually upon one side of the face only. The tresses on the opposite side of the face are lifted In careless draperies up to the chignon, which is rolled or curled, as fancy wills it. It will be observed, too, that as a rule the side curls are particularly becoming to a brunette with a damask complexion and dark eyes, and that the chignon that s of masses of fluffy little curls suits the golden haired girl, who also will do well to try the effects of the forehead fringe. Coiffure ornaments are infinitely varled. Those et with pearls are particularly dainty and most suitable for the debutante. * W Hatpins are so numerous in style that it would bs almost Impossible to reproduce anything like the vast variety obtainable. In spite of the enormous number of novelties brought out the imitation pearl batpin, either white or gray, is the one in general use by smartly gowned women. Those of extravagant taste wear, of course, the real pear], but fashionable women generally wear the Imitation A new and attractive feature in hatplns Is the matehing of the same design in different sizes. A hatpin shown recently consisted of two medium sized pearl heads joined with a long pearl chaln, the latter caught in double festoons and caught in the hair with a small hairpin . Lines of hatpins now heing shown Indicate that the long stem pin s not to be worn this season. The uew pins range from nine to elev A Hatpins in medallion form, made which are attached metal tassels, ure quite the smart est novelties shown. They are usually jeweled slight Iy, the jewels being those that are used to simulate th es and mouth of the animal heads with which they are flatly decorated. Another type of this hatpin is one with portions of the head enameled to repre: sent Irish crochet. Its rim Is composed of a chaln link. This is particularly attractive for wear with the lingerie type of hat. Hatpins in Egyptian design are another expensive novelty that Is being sold in all the popular colors. One of these Is a triangular cut out Egyptian design finished In antique. The cen ter of the pin head bears a face carved in moon stone and surrounding the face is a number of small pearls In antique setting: * ® Many young girls wemr the head brald coronet with the natural hair pulled softly around the face The chiffon motor bonnet is finding & new use. The traveler dons It on the train on removing her own hat Hats of leather trimmed with ribbon are among the smart accessories worn this spring with tallored gowns * ® For outing days there 1s & stunning model of a sailo hat with a slightly rolled brim and trimmed with a plaited cord and two quills placed quite flat at the side Velllngs of marquisette, or silk volle will wash in- finitely better than those of chiffon and will be be coming. n inches long. ate In size and to L Most of the new wraps and hats show a hint of shin ing metal somewhere in clasps or buttons or buckles or beautiful metallic braids or bands. Lovely Is & new scarf of gold and sllver wrought tulle, entirely covered with sheerest black mousseline de sole. A softly plaited silk ruche trims all the edges Many of the bandeaux, whether of metal tissue or of velvet, are fastened with a jeweled buckle. In addition some such ornament a sheaf of wheat, a quill, o a dainty feather, is fastened with the buckle Some of the new parasols dre of a solld color, velled with a net embrojdered in a thread the same color of the silk or contrasting strongly with it, ¢ .