Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, January 9, 1910, Page 27

EVER has lingerle been so claborate never before has so much attention bee pald to cut, fit, and finish. Although the lingerie of the moment is more exqul sitely flimsy than ever before, much thought {s given to {ts endurance. Lace which gave place for a short time to delicate hand embroidery, i again in ogue, but Instead of the conventional narrow Valen clennes Inserting and edgings, huge medallions of baby Irish or Cluny lace are used on the finest hand embroidered handkerchief linen. The countless stitches that are required to make up the lingerie shown this season necessitates a vast amount of labor, and whers the garments are im- ported the prices asked are not within reach of the average woman. But If one is handy with the needle the expense of these garments is ridieulously small, s fact of which you can esslly convince yoirself by glancing at the imported lingeris models shown on the page. It one does not care for the hand sewing or her time 1s limited, good effects may be obtained by fine sewing machine stitches. In the embroideries shown for corset covers eyelst designs are good, but the English open effects are better. Much favor is also shown the Lorraine embroideries, which are a good Imitation of the hand embroldered goods so much used on corset covers and combination sets. The em- brojdery 18 especially good and often as effective and durable a fve hand em- broldery. TRhe English openwork embrolderies include insertings, medallions, flouncings, and beadings. L The newest lingerie designs show no Influence of the empire style. Even in night gowns they all indi- cate that the walst has moved down, for the belts that fn evidence encirele the figure just above the hips, not just below the bust. A greaf many of the newest models are shown in the barred dimities in practically the same size check as proved so popular in last season's lingerie. Shapeless, full gathered undergarments have been relegated to the past. The princess model in combi- natlon with drawers and corset covers and in petti- coats, long and short, that fit without a wrinkle, are the present day demands in lingerle. The combination skirt and corset cover or corset cover and drawers is now a necessity to one's wardrobe. It is usually made in the most elaborate fashion of the finest nain- sook and great quantities of Insertings. But for the fact that It is worn beneath, it has all the appear- ance of a charming gown, The fit of these garments is most important, for it must curve into the figure nicely and not a Bug tion of a seam or wrinkle be allowed to show. Some are even made with casings on the lower side, Into which whalebones are slipped, and with these the corset is frequently dispensed with. Another thing to take Into consideration in the making of these gowns is that as nearly all skirts and drawers are cut cir- cular, great care must be taken that the finished gar- ment does not sag. * *» The every day house frock receives important con- s{deration this season. We have advanced far from the day when any cloth skirt and shirt walst made up the costume for house wear. It took women a long while to dlacover the fallacy of this costume as a conventional one. The adjustment of s shirt walst with its many accessories, all fresh and all in the best of order, was never an easy matter. A belt could never he put on carelessly, & collar takes time to adjust properly, and & cravat often is clumey. Another temptation is the tendency that evem the best groomed woman {s oceasionally a vietim to— that of putting on the walst just once too often. Therefore the popularity of the one plece house frock now has been assured. As the frock stands today, it is made without a boned lining, is held in place by & three inch fitted girdle of b and there is a soft body lining. The skirt 18 extra short, the neck usually s finished with a wide Peter Pan collar of lace or lingerle. The blouse part of the frock is arranged in tucks or small plaits and the fastening usually 1s in the back. Sleeves are long and entirely of the material, or have a lower half sleeve of net or some contrasting m terial. The skirt is cut with a slightly high waist and joined to the blouse under a fitted band of the material The fabries for these comfortable frocks are many, it the most favored are the seft woelens, worsted: hepherd's plaids, and foulard: They ®re trimmed with bands of embroidery, bralding, pipings, or rib- bon. All the new petticoats that are not made in comb! natlon are eut circular, with, absolutely no fullne at the top. They are of the finest nainsook or linen lawn, and from the knees down there is a shaped flounce, These are elaborate, sometimes of English cyelet embroldery or of the still finer French work. A uovel fdea is the addition of an extra flounce of net below the one of embroidery and lace. This is tucked and finished with a narrow edge. It looks pretty and fluty, washea well, and s a change from the muslin one * * The tendency in silk petticoats is largely in favor )t plajn colors of the same shade as the gown itself. metimes a pretty combination of colors is chosen, fuch a8 a green underskirt with a gray gown or a rose with a tan. The matching shades, however, are by far the better taste. A number of most attractive wash models are nown In ginghams, seersuckers, chambrays, linens, and pongees. Some pretty stripes are also seen. A popular trimming in these petticoats 1s a flounce em- broidered to give the effect of handwork, This usually consists of a scallop with few dots or flowers above it. The ocorrect features of the corset of the moment wre long, slender lines, with slightly incurving walsts, flat effect preserved absolutely across the front, with & slight spring at the back and sides. Some of the newest spring models show a little more fullness At the hips, indicating a return to the more curying lines. While this ohange is Indicated In a degree, the change !s slight. The corset lines of the last couple of seasons are lines of health and eomfort. The pres- ent fashion of the hipless, stralght back figure is nearer than ever to that of a perfect woman. LI A corset to it properly snould not be too tight nor t0o loose; It should not be pulled down too far on the figure. (The garters should Le fastened In exactly the right place. The right corset is a big help to proper breathing end correct carria The first principle to remember in Atting a corset is that beauty lies In yropertion, not In size. The breadth of the diapiragm nust be ample, for a corset narrow in that partieular hiakes & most distressing appearance. A feature to be observed In the spring corsets is the lowering cut of the bust. In ope of the new models this is 80 exaggerated as to result in a girdle top. This, when 0o extreme, as can readily be seen, is not practical, and is only adapted for small pro- portioned figures. The medium bust lige is much 10 be preferred Among the speclalties shown this season in corsets s a4 model having & speclally constructed hip re. ducer. The hip confiner is patented and of speeial design, but may be attached to any corset. 1t is constructed of twelyd inch bands of elastic which onform (o the figure and fasten around the thighs to form & sort of a pantaloon. This, with additionai supporters attached to the hose, makes & snug, tgure casing garment, showing no break &t the ends of the corset. THE_OMAHA_SU VDAY__BEE: For a number of years experts in corset manufac- ture have given thelr attention to corsets that lace in the fromt. That their efforts have been crowned with success is evident from the increasing demand for them. The back of these corsets s perfectly shaped, with sufficlent breadth beneath the shoulder easily to mold the figure, and as there 1s no decided restriction of the walst line there is no forcing upward of soft flesh. One advantage of such & eorset is that it is impossible for it to slip up on the body. * * More and more women are begifining to realize the importance and the necessity of laundering a corset The dry cleaning process is expensive and not alwaye satisfactory. A few words In regard to laundering may prove helpful. Manufacturers are becoming more and more ocon- vinced of the growing necessity for corsets that will launder, and advances are being made in this dirvec- tion all the time. The construction of the corset boning is the principal thing to take into consider- ation when buying a corset that you wish to laun- der. The stay must have an enduring quality and at the same time it must not stain the fabric of the corset. . To laupder a rust proof corset, lukewarm or cold water should be used and a good cold water soap The corset should be spread upon a board snd scrubbed with & stiff fiber brush. Rinse thoroughly in cold water and dry as quickly as possible, either in the sunshine or on the radiators, hot water pipes, or hot air registers Much of the succe the successful drying. ough and the corset of the operation depends upon This should be quick and thor- will retain its original beauty All cotton materials will launder, of course, better than those made of silk, because pilk is bound to become yellowed in spite of everything done to pre- vent it The work of the corsetidre today Is to {mpart un dulating lines to the figure—no decided curves, but soft, flowing lines from her head to her feet Ther« must be no sign of a corset visible to the casual ob server. A woman must be fitted as If she wer: melted and poured into a mold. There must not b a hint of flatness anywhere; rou and soft, flexible, she must look as natural as a flower on stem. Almost Invarlably a thin woman This i1s & decided advantage, are broad enough for lent posstbilities. The bottom of a sorset should never be tight, for ithe line from hip to thigh brgken. If there 1s a hollow just b line in the back it ix Always caused by pressurqg of & corset which ended in alfowed the flgyh to accumulate below has a long wals and if her shoulder her height her figure has exce laced toc musj not b ow the wa the continua that place an This 18 co vected In the long coreet bringing a pressure mucl Obe of the New French Retticoats Hanad Embroidered . lower down and gradually until the hollow fills up. It is not mlways wise to fill with padding, “as this tends to arrest natural deyelopment back wires of the corset ave rigid enough not to bend, and the long laces tied in the back and tucked in the hollows are often all that is necessary The top of every corset must be high reach the bust Lne and fit closely under the arms, the back fitting the shoulder blades snugly when the wearer i seated. The bust may then- be filled out with & pad, which should be selucted to suit the fig- ure. The desirable qualities of bust pads are light- ness of welght, * flexibility, and shapeliness. A pad that reaches well undor the arm gives a4 muech bet- ter line than one designed forethe front alone. A triple ruche of babbinet, three and & half 4nches in depth, basted In the bust of & corset, with about one and one-half inches showing above the top, !s one forcing the flesh upward enough to G ,"\\}.'p\ The Gombination Grsetlover and SKaret— That Is Such a Favorite Unager Close Fitting ANightgown With & table 31 E rg’a b%m:n l:’i'llfl;;a)f-’:c;fl rfe’y at is not enough she she knows for a surety that fu lier hest. Many of the negligés are épe de chine or from satin char onds itself beautitully to anything that long and trailing. 13 1o g om ise, which *® & dresses there ha Jackets fairly red with [ ar with night out th little oft tones. They sleeves, and are f and ribbon been brought in colored materials of short half fitting flufty billows of lace est are have Nightcaps o D caps are nating ered A with the shown in the most fascl trilled and ruched and puck- bewildering manner, and are finished coquettish little bows. On the head they 100k that is bewitching. The close garment to wear under the corset of all other lingerle. Of cour: ways given to silk, but there are mbinations shown in lisle: the lingerie this season They Include mysterious blue or pink silk halr curlers bags no bigger than a hazel nut to tuck in the hair, and in the negligé nightcaps ot white with blue or pink ribbons running through them around the face and (ying with & great bow on the left side. These caps uve worn as a frame for the face to hide the deficiency of hair. Often & bow at the back of the neck and a bow at the front are used instead of the streamers tied undes the chin. Usyally with these outfits are shown tiny heeiless satin slippers, with clinging ankles and fur tops. Then there are thin and exceedingly loose lace #00ks, and long, wrinkled lace sleeves, thin us gauze which are slipped on the night robe and give the wearer a drebsed feellng without Interfering wito sleep. most mokt has taken the place inating ¢ The most chic feature of are the quaint plece some fas goIng-to-bed light little sachet sets, of the simplest as The newest d shoulders, witl whe are quick wall as most effective ssing gowns fall straight from the funny no confining bend. American women, to appreclate and appropriate all that be: dress, have learned to know that a home gown or u negligee 18 not enly a pretty comfort hut an economy us well padding looking Besides the fact that & sireet gown Is not pretty or graceful for home wear, street’ gowns subjected to home wear soon take on & look that is distressing discouraging. ,This is particularly true where the skirt 1s scant.” To sit or lounge in one of them will soon make them bag Bt the knees N Something that can be slipped Ito without much trouble, that is free from tight bands and stifing bones, will be found the joy of any woman's life, and under