Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, November 1, 1903, Page 25

Sumptuous Evening Wraps for Woman of Fashion N EVENING wrap,” said a French modiste of a decade ago, “should be simplicity itself, so that the airy ball gown emerges from its wrappings, as a butterfly from its crystals.” Never have his tenets been so disregarded as by the modistes of the present season. Ornamentation upon ornamentation, ap- plique upon lace, over net, over chiffon, over silk and satin—thus runs the tale of the latest evening wraps. Yet they must have some adequate reason for existing. Unless interlined with chamois or wadding they are not particularly warm. Indeed, their general appearance is fimsy, for fur Jinings are entirely out of date, and where fur is used on a coat it is merely as a trim- ming. with no stress laid on its weight. If the wrap is not neceseary, it must rank as a luxury and rely on its beauty. And the winter's evening wraps are beautiful enough to satisfy the most fastidious. White is, of course, the reigning color. But it is a white which graduates from a frosty white to a creamy ivory, and it is relieved by touches of delicate color, either in the form of buttons, applique or em- broidery. Pale blue cloth and pearl gray are occasionally seen, however, and in the melange of white they have something of the charm of novelty. But it would be farcical to affirm that the white wraps are monotonous. Such ie the wealth of handwork expended upon them and their intricacy of detail that each is a unique creation. Where there is no limit to variety of foundation material, and trimmings can be obtained in bewildering array, it would be strange if any two wraps should be exactly alike. “Evening wraps are all to be loose,” one importer confidently declared. Yet his statement is not altogether grounded on fact. Most of the wraps are loose, but in their midst there is apt to be seen one of the tight-fitting Louis XIV basque coats which has an almost annual revival. This divergence of the modistes has a note of encouragement, in that it allows for the exerciee of individual taste. One of these Lounis XIV coats is particu- larly charming in a white velvet of a su- perh quality. It is trimmed around the neck, down the front and around the three- quarters length coat skirt by a band of white satin applique in an open-work flower pattern. Narrow silk braid border- ing the applique gives a particularly rich effect. The same trimming is used on the short hip volants, and the cuffs of the bouffant sleeves. A narrow white satin vest is inserted in the front, but this is almost entirely covered by a lace jabot which falls from the throat. The same lace is used for the wide ruffies which finish the bottom of the sleeves. The whole wrap has an indescribable air of elegance. and refinement. The loose coats are all shorter than of late years. Three-quarters, or an even shorter length, seems to be popular, though, as winter is more firmly estab'ished, there is little doubt but that the extremely long wraps of other years will have some vogue, particularly for opera wear. Panne velvet is one of the most sumptuous fabrics of the season. It fur- nishes so rich a background for lace or applique that there is small wonder that it is a favorite with both modiste and mil- liner. A pretty panne velvet wrap is in the old- fashioned pelerine effect. In reality it is nothing more than a loose coat whose full- ness falls from the shoulders from be- neath a tight-fitting cape. But the sleeves are so sweeping that their folds merge into these of the coat and give the pelerine ef- fect. This wrap is a length between the three-quarters and the hip. It is lined with salmon-colored satin and bordered by & rich white chenilla fringe, headed by square lace motives. These are in a heavy cream silk, hand-embroidered with stars of black silk. The same trimming is used not only on the edges of the sleeves, but runs up them in several paral'el lines, Other lines mark the center of the back and trim the front edges of the coat. The shoulder cape is of hand-made silk lace, shaped into odd points, and ornamented with insertions of the lace motifs. An oddly pointed bretelle extends down over the sleeve and is finished by a lace drapery edged with the fringe. A mink collarette gives the necessary touch of black to cor- respond with the black silk stars on the lace motifs, Another evening wrap on which fur gives effective color contrasfs is of black broad- c'oth. It is in a three-quarters length and is enriched by a princely guipure lace ap- plique for a third of the distance above the bottom hem. The V neck is outlined by double rows of Russian sable caught in the front by jeweled clasps and finished by short tails. Simlilar tails are used in pairs at intervals down the front on the shoulder cape and the sleeves. The fur has a charm- ing background in the oddly shaped shoul- der cape of the guipure. Its rounded tabs or panels are finished by a ten-inch fringe of heavy white silk cord, One of the fringes extends over the sleeve with graceful effect. The sleeves themselves are widely flaring and lace encrusted. ‘The undersleeve of accordion pleated white chiffon is finished by a perfect cascade of narrow, ribbon- edged, pleated ruffies of the chiffon. They extend fully three inches below the broad- cloth sleeve. The coat is also lined with the accordion pleated chiffon over white satin, the chiffon extending an inch or so below the coat. A coat which makes use of ermine for a trimming is decidedly of the pelerine order. It dips decidedly from front to back, and the same curve is followed by the widely flaring sleeves. The mauve broadcloth, which is the coat foundation, clings closely to the figure and combines simplicity with elegance. Tts only trim- ming is a succession of narrow folds of the material around the Dbottom, rather large lace medallions on the sleeves and the ermine stole. The stole is handsome enough to atone for the lack of other trimmiéng. It illus- trates the use of fur and other ornaments in combination, for it is finished by lace medallions and held in place at the breast by silk braid and fringe ornaments. The sleeves have the cloth folds running both vertically and around the hottom. They are also trimmed by bands of the ermine. The coat is lined without by ac- cordion pleated white chiffon over white taffeta. Fringe has an important role to play on almost all the evening wraps. Sometimes it edges the bottom with rich effect; some- times it gives greater depth to the aiready deep fitted cape collars; at the very least there are fringe ornaments sprinkied lavishly over the coat. A white velvet coat has these fringed ornaments, but they are lost sight of in the mass of trimming which adorns it The velvet is so encrusted with pancls of exquisite renaissance lace that one s tempted to call it a lace wrap Instead of a velvet one. Like many of the evening wraps, it has a V neck. The cape collar is rather nar- row on the shoulders, but it falls in a deep point in the front and back. It is pancled with lace and ornamented with fringed buttons, There is an under cape of pleated white chiffon, whose rufflings extend several inches below the upper one. The same method of procedure is observed as regards the rest of the coat, which is lined throughout with the pleated chiffon. The chiffon rufMings have a charming eoffect inside the flaring sleeves and al the bottom of the three-quarters length coat, HARRIET HAWLLY Fashionable Flowers and Favors for Tables HERE has been, in the matter of . decorations for the dining table, a sort of reaction from the elab- orate and heavy styles of floral adornment that have been su- preme in the world of fashion for so long. ‘“The roses of yesterday'’ are assuming a sentimental value that has not been at- tached to them in years. People are not only demanding something new in the way of a flower for decorative purposes, but they want something that reminds them of scenes and seasons that have for them a tender interest. The wealthy woman has no espeeial fond- ness for the fringe of nasturtiums that made a golden glory in the blue rim of the lake that lay at the doors or her mountain home, but she welcomes them with delight in the cold days when their blossoming sea- son has passed by because they remind her of days as golden as the petals of the flowers themselves. The nasturtium, there- fore, is being grown by fashionable florists for the decoration of autumnal tables. The most exclusive way of arranging it is to have a cut glass bowl in the center of the table, with nasturtiums trailing from it to the cloth, and radiating from the bowl -across the table graceful lines of aspara- gus fern with just a few flowers peeping from under the filmy foliage. The same treatment is observed with the single dahlias.. They, also, have found a place of affection in the hearts of women who remember how, in the days of their youth, swains were wont to send them dahlias with the sentiment attached—and an extremely warm sentiment it was. The fashion of the seasop is to combine these dahlias with autumn follage and the ef- fect, it is needless to say, i3 striking, Other modish floral table decorations are constructed of red and yellow maple leaves, with all their pleasant suggestions of autumnal days in bright-colored wdods. Another striking table combination is red with bronze oak leaves. These make a rich decoration. Yor a splendid effect of color, the sumach is mingled with autumn foliage. One fiery dinner decoration that is particularly happy on ,a gloomy or stormy night consists of spikes or red salvia ~known also as scarlet sage—with red and bronze oak leaves. For both dinners and luncheons the new- est method of table decorating is to follow nature as closely as possible—even to get- ting the out-door flowers of summer grown in winter season. Decorations are invari- ably flat, except where a housewife has a tall cut glass or silver pitcher of quaint shape and great beauty—presumably an heirloom—in which case tall stemmed roses, or some other very long stemmed flowers, are placed in the centerpiece, and the floral decorations-are carried out in an overhead effect. The fad of the season is for green grow- ing centerpieces of several delicately con- trasted foliage plants of dwarf varieties. Upon one side of this central decoration are placed several rare orchids, six or eight being usually selected. Camelias are becoming more fashionable than they have been in thirty years, and make handsome and effective decorations. The fad was started by a leading fashion- able florist in New.York, who adorned the table at the dinner given to Prince Henry of Prussia with red and red and white camelias, whose beauty made a sensation Ferns, roses mn mass and what expert decorators term orations,” and people who lead the fash- fons like to keep away from this mode of adornment until midwinter. For general house decoration the latest thing for the coming season will be cro- tons, in white and gold, with other bright foliaged plants, mingled with ferns. In dwarf form the combination is as striking as it is new, and the same deeorations that do duty for a dinner can serve next day for a luncheon. Cut-glass, silver and fine china candle- sticks and candelabra rivat one another in beauty of design for use upon up-to-date tables, and in the new styles of old beaten silver they are particularly popular. The lights are shaded with red, pink or light green shades in pereference to any other tints. The dainty flower or frilled shades must have bead fringes. One uty_lo has V-shaped panpels of strings of glass camelias are “heavy dec- beads divided by quillings of baby ribbon, with loops at the top of the gause bell, which forms the foundation of the dainty shade. Other popular table shades are empire designs painted on a stiff paper, and pan- eled satin shades painted in rich colors and with gold applied over the edges of the design and on the borders. In dinner cards reigning favorites are charmingly cut out. Hand painted sets of ballet girls and other figure cards follow in point of popularity. For stag dinners the most popular cards bear painted groups of steins, bottles and all manner of sug- gestions for good things to drink or smoke. There are hunting scenes, yachting scenes and college flag cards appropriate to spe- cial dinners. Cut out shamrocks, tinted in natural shades, or four-leaved clovers, with little silver horseshoes attached with white baby ribbon, convey a sentiment of good luck at a farewell dinner. In the manner of favors, however, the range is a wide one and includes some dainty little affair costing $1 or less to the fashionable favors of the well-to-do dinner giver. These include fans of lace and pearl; French screens, In fans and panels, bound in old gold, representing anclent tapestries, which are much in vogue; trin- ket fans of ivory, hand painted and spangled, as well as fans of wide, tinted mother of pearl sticks, carved and inlaid with gold and surmounted by superd Wat- teau paintings upon parchment. A novel dinner tavor consists of little folding opera glasses In rich leather cases, white moire or enamel, with gilt chains, Another novelty is a gun metal book, with a pencil acting as a clasp and compart- ments inside for powder puff, paint, ivory writing tablets and cards. The case for cards has a spring to hold them in place. Popular favors are small leather cases containing a tiny silver knife and forle, which are turned upside down inte their handles when not in use. Elegant French handbags of silk and satin, spangled and Jewelled, are prized as dinner favors among those to whom lovely things naturally gravitate, R Tender SKins are cleansed without the slightest irritation by the mild, soothing lather of Woodbury’s Facial Soap Delightfully purifying and refreshing. Clears and beautifies the complexion—gives it the fresh, smooth look of perfect health, A skin soap. Your dealer has it. a3 cents a cake. Special offer and samples of Dental Cream, Our booklet, trial size package tork of Soap .ndfF“l:‘O‘l Crell:.m sent or b cts, to pa 3 or for 10 cts. the same I M\n‘ry‘s Facial Powder and Address Dept. 47 Trade- mark facc om each package THE ANDREW JERGENS CO., Sole Owners, AAANEINI A skin of beauty is a joy forever. R. 1. 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