Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, September 6, 1903, Page 27

! September G 100& mer textures fall greatly in price, these, fn combination with Swiss, organdie or silk- spotted mousseline, will realize smart frocks at a comparatively trifling cost. A detached silk lining should accompany every frock of this fragile nature, as such materials require the background of silk for a good effect. Having the lining sep- arate gives opportunity for the constant pressing they need. Suitable and becoming accessories for these evening frocks must be included in the school wardrobe, and not the least of these is a neck chain of some sort. All the world of school girls loves jewelry, but it need not necessarily be of the expensive variety, The long turquoise and coral beads are strikingly effective when wound several times areund the throat in necklace fashion. The gold link chains of a thread-like fine- ness are also charming, and for these there are round and oval lockets in chased gold and blue enamel. Then a bracclet of some Fall U1, said the middle-aged Amer- fcan, with a dissalisfied air, as she glanced down the long room full of models, ‘‘these tallor suits require a perfect figure to look well."” “Madam,” the modist insinuated gently, “in these days every woman has a perfect figure."” His statement is a trifle overdrawn, but it is nevertheless true that in these days of physical culture, massage and correct corset making every woman should have a trim figure. The fall tailored suits will be trying to many women, however. That is to say, the strictly tailored ones. They are too straight and stiff, too mannish and un- compromiging to find favor with the woman who affects a drooping pose. But she who has an ercct ftigure and a regal carriage can rejoice, for every one of her good points will tell. The trim, s'ngle- breasted, tight-fitting, long-skirted coals will give her an effect of elegant simplicity, The sclection of the material for her tailored suit will be an easy task for mi- lady, for it must lie among a few weaves and fabrics. Broadcloth and other smooth finish silk and wool mixtures are but un- fashionable echoes of past seasons. In their place the ruling favorites are shot effeets in cheviots, heavy weight home- spuns and rough finish zibelines and shaggy camel's hair. Black, blue, brown, green ond gray shot with white are the favorite color combinations, but black and white has a long lead in popular favor. This is not the first season that the manufacturers and modists have endeav- ored to bring zibeline into favor. But it is safe to predict that this year will score another failure. Its wearing qualities are none of the best. As an experienccd sales- man in one of the largest importing houses cxplained: ‘*Zibeline is bound to rub up and down after a couple of wearings, and the more expensive the grade the more it rubs. The camel's hairs are not much better, so far as the long-haired varicties go.* If might be just as well to give heed to this word of warning, but there are many women who will doubtless prefer to try for themselves. As to the length of the long-skirted coats, there seems to be a pretty generally ac- cepted rule. A noted man tailor explained it when he said: “I'he coat should reach just to the end of the finger tips when the arm hangs loozely at the side. Of course this is only the rule for the skirt coat suits. When it comes to the dressy silk coats for reception or evening wear, the length corresponds to the wrist when the arm is held in the same position as before. And for these coats peaun de soie will be decidedly more smart than the shiny taffetas which have been f ishionable during the summer.” iin broadcloth will not be tabooed, however, as a trimming. Indeed, plain c.oths will be a feature of winter dress garnitures, and cut cloths, appligues and edgings will be largely used on the more e¢ivlorate reception dresses. Cuffs and collars of plain cloth do much to prevent monotony in a tailored suit. An «xiremely pretty one is of Blarney tweed i1 a pepper and salt mixture, and is made efter a Wooltex design. The skirt 1s walk- ing length and has strapped seams, while many rows of stitching give a finish at the foot. The three-quarter length coat has a two and a half inch belt of the material at the bip. It stops, however, at the front dart, thus accentuating the extreme siraight front effect. "he coat In single-breasted and s fast- ered by a single row of buttons covered with brown broadcloth, the last coming at 1he point where the belt, if continued, would have met in the front. A pointed yoke collar and flaring cavalier cuffs of the n broadcloth, heavily bralded in black, relirve the costume from the reproach of to great plainness. The yoke collar is cut oul in a slight V in the front, so as to give a glimpse of the smart shirt waist stock beneath. The odd shaped cuffs which appear on this suit are a feature of the fall costume. Many of the mest manish tailored suits THE ILLUSTRATED BER. #impl® description will make the heart of its youthful wearer still lighter and add to the chic of her toilette, while her dance card must hang in a gilt frame, for all the world like the border of a tiny slate. This may hang with her tiny, spangled fan by a ribbon from her belt, or it may emerge from a silk bag which matches the costume and is swung over the left arm by a wider ribbon. Not even children of the kindergarten age are exempt from the need of festive garments, as afternoon dances also fre- quently inaugurate the opening of their schools. So, even for the smallest fry, party frocks and gallant Jack Tar dance suits may be bought ready made at the out- fitters, at prices that astonish, so sweet are the little garments. Sometimes the prices astonish the other way, but it is usually imported dearness, and nine times out of ten the delightfulness of the get- up atones for its expense. For example, a party frock for a girl of Tailor Effects have them, and their shape is never twice alike. They are curved and pointed. Some are longer on the inner arm seam, some on the outer. They may taper to an inch in width, and then extend almost to the el- bow. Most of them flare slightly to re- ceive the fullness of the lower sleeve puff, and when they are extra long they flare at the wrist also. They are often cut into odd shapes, overlapping bands, and all manner of eccentricities. But the cuffs are about the only eccentric features of the new suits. The_collars, for Beauty Dont’s ON'T over-manicure the hands or they will become so tender as to be easily reddened and rough- ened. Don't wash the hands oftener than necessary, and dry them thoroughly after every washing. Don’t neglect the palms of the hands. They need attention as much as the backs of the hands. Rub an emollient—perfumed honey is good—into the palms with thumb and forefinger. Don't neglect massaging and kneading of the hands in order to secure good cir- culation, which helps to keep the hands white and to make the skin pliant. Don't forget to pinch the ends of the fingers now and then. This will do a good deal toward making the fingers taper. Don’t polish the nalls too highly or they will become so brittle that the slightest contact with anything hard breaks them down to the quick, thereby causing intense pain, Don't file or scrape the nalls; either pro- cess only helps to thicken them. They should be rubbed down with the very fine emery and cinnabar powder, which is used for polishing shell and ivory. Don't allow the nails to remain long soiled with anything that will stain them. Don't always use a nail polisher or buf- fer. Once in a while try polishing the nails on the paim of the hand. Frills of Fashion Silk is to have a return to popularity, soft silks being especlally in vogue. Ermine stoles are favored at French watering places for wearing with muslin and silk frocks. Velvet fruit such as almonds, blackber- ries, grapes, peaches, nuts, and apples, are all to be employed next season in millinery. The fashion for wearing earrings grows apace, and it is predicted that pear shaped drops will be in high favor the coming year, As a result of the vogue for moleskin last winter a very close imitation of the fur has been brought out in plush. It is called moleskin plush, and is quite expensive, Black enamel swallows with diamond tipped wings are used as ornaments for low bodices, and dragon fies, veined and ;J_lugllned with diamonds, are worn in the air, Pompadour gloves to draw on over the hand without fastening at the wrist are returning to favor., Some of them have one button at the wrist to draw them in more closely. The newest sleeve Is very nearly related to the pagode of last year, al'ied to a modernized bell Three shaped volants start midway between shoulder and elbow, the third and last coming just below the bend of the arm, A tan glace walking shoe is one of thae approved fancies of the hour. The high flap is usually adorned with square buckies of dull gilt, and one especially smart model bore an embossed kid buckle. The lL.ouis heel is invariable. Modish stockings have the initials em- broidered on the instep in intricate and elaborate designs. 80 disguised ana «roaie, indeed, are these, that at a first glance they are hard to decipher amid their set- ting of leaves and scrolls. Skirts of painted muslin, made with flounces, or skirts with shaped flounces of lace coming up to the walst, are smart worn with silk coats drawn in at the back, the belt passing through the gide seam, leaving the fronts loose, opening over a white blouse, Something entirely new in bathrobes for men are in silk crepons In solid colors— deep greens, dark blues, rich browns wine reds. They are plain, and the girdle cords exactly match the crepe sk, They are lined with Indin silk of contrast- ing colors, corn colr lining the blu s, They look and are very soft ani warm, and at the same time are as light as the pro- verbial feather, therc heing =ome sort of thin, but very light weight, interlining. 6 was of white silk tulle garlanded with tiny pink flowers. The full gathered skirt, being mounted over several similar ones, had a ballet-doll look, while the tiny sleeve- less bodice was low and held on the shoul- ders only by a band of the flowers. A wreath of the same kind of flowers, with narrow ribbon streamers, wae provided for the head. A wrap for the costume was of pale pink gros grain trimmed with embrofdered frills of the same. » Effective and comfortable dancing shoes for these small malds are sutin ballet sandals, whose narrow ribbons are wound about the ankle in genuine ballet fashion, Dancing footgear for boys of all ages are patent leather pumps, which will be worn during the winter with white stockings and sailor suits of white cloth. Nautical em- biems in colored embroidery and silk ties will bedeck thoe suits, while the white socks will be clocked with color or black Of course, many children, and quite large girls as well, are unable to stand the the most part, are extremely moderate in size and design. These modest turnovers may be of velvet, or of cloth of the same or a contrasting shade. A brown cheviot flecked with dull red has a turnover collar and high cuffs of the latter shade. 'The effect is warm and bright. The sleeves are built mostly after one model. The effort to have them puff at the shoulders scems to have been abandoned for the present. The puffs come farther down, just above the flaring cuff. Above the elbow they are only comfortably loose. for the Hands Don’t trim the nails to sharp points. If there is anything that will set the teeth on edge it is to shake hands and feel a slight graze from such claws. It is feline. Don't always use scissors to trim the nails; a file i8 better to round off the edges. Nothing tends to injure the mails so much as persistent trimming with a palr of scis- sors. Don’t think that one rule applies to all finger nails. No two sets of nails can be treated quite alike, mot alone because of thelr texture, but of their formation. To trim some nails overmuch renders them thick and ugly. To leave others too long uncut increases their tendency to brittle- ness. Don't wear rings that are too small. The inevitable tendency is disfigurement from red and swollen hands and knuckles, Don’'t wear bracelets so tight that they affect the circulation and injure the ap- pearance of the hands. Don’'t wear gloves that are a size too small or that fasten too tightly, This pre- vents freo circulation and makes the hands red. Don't wear gloves stitched with colors, They make the hands look larger, Don’t think the appearance of the hands a trifling consideration. A beautiful hand may be even more fascinating than a beau- tiful face, and nothing more strongly marks the person of birth and breecding. For and About Women Miss Kate Augusta Carl, an American portrait painter, whose studio is in Parls, has been offered the task of painting the portrait of the dowager empress of China. Mrs. Alfred Peats, wife of the millionaire wall paper manufacturer, has established a frece kindergarten en her estate near (};‘o‘l-}nwlch, Conn., as a memorial to her child. ]xung Tung Back, daughter of Kong Yu ‘Wei, leader of the reform movement in China, has arrived at Tacoma, Wash., to organize the reform movement among the Puget Sound Chinese. She will later go to Portland, San Franecisco and New York, Miss Luella Miner, missionary and teacher, who has been spending a vacation in this country, is about returning to North China, where the greater part of her time during the coming year will be spent in the preparation of the Chinese text- book of geology, the manuscript of which was destroyed in the burning of the Tung- chau buildings by the boxers. Miss Ithel Bailey of Crystal Sprin, Miss., sister of Senator Bailey of [';‘--xg:’ has entered Mississippi politics as a . didate for state )il an. Miss Bailey has a wide acquaintan h men of influence and her fitness for the position to which she aspires is conceded on all honds. She is built in the same heroic mold as her stalwart Texas brother and Is tully h.s equal in oratorical ability and personal msgnetism, A party who has just returned from a delightful holiday spent in the Shakespeare country relates that the chief amusement of the natives of Stratford-on-Avon |3 wiatching the American pilgrim in his or her efforts to snapshot Miss Marie Corelli. Miss Corelll, since she tosk up residenca at Stratford, has been often seen ahout, but she invariably carries an umbrella or a parasol, which “goes up” the Instant the authoress spies a camera fdend muking to- ward her. The archbishop of Paris Is being sued for dama i to the complexion of ore of his female parishioners. The archbishop has installed a cheap bathing establishment in Puris at the rate of 6 ecents a bath. The woman patronized the place until on one occesion, somewhat unaceountably, the hot water tap was turned on while she was imme and nearly hofled her and “con- siderabl) damaged her complexion. The case came before the Paris court the other day, but it was adjourned until Octoher 24, the archbishop through his lawyer havin argued that he could only be iummonoz before the first chamber of the civil court rank. an- on accoust of his s f exposure of & cut-out bodice once the age tumn winds have begun to blow. But for the smaller mailds the effect of a low cut fs made by a white gamp, and the same stylish pretension may be obtained for larger girls with white tuckers of varying widths, As long as white is next the face the dressy look is preserved. But a collarless tucker or gamp will promote a more gala look than will one with a high stock In short, bare necks are the fashion, and because of this almost as many soft muf- ..ings are provided for the juvenile dance® as for the grownup. Pretty shawls are secen In ice wools in white and baby pinks and blueg, whose falrylike fineness ren- ders them especially suitable for young folk. Roman scarfs in silk and wool are also worr, and there are pretty sewing silk squares with fringed borders, all of which provide mufMings of the right weight for the overheated moment near an open window. MARY DEAN. to Suit Trim Figures A smart autumn street gown is In gun metal melange cloth. The three-quarter Jength coat has a yoke effect back and front, with collar, cuff and belt of black velvet, It has breast pockets and strap seams, and the front is garnished with a double row of buttons in the gun metal finish. The seams of the walking length skirt are strapped to mateh the coat. 'IThe pointed straps extend to within ten inches of the bottom, below which the skirt has a stylirh flare. A Wooltex tailored suit of brown has a dress length, nine-gored skirt, which de- pends for effect on the careful stitching of the seams., The simple three-quartered length coat is rather unigue this fall in that it is double-breasted. It Is gathered in at the waist by a belt of the material and has a shallow shoulder cape with stole attachment. The turnover collar and revers are of brown velvet with strappings of silk soutache, The same trimming edges the pointed flaring cuffs. A walking suit of pepper and salt mixed cheviot has a coat of a slightly greater length than that decreed by fashion. It was built to suit an individual fancy and will doubtless be copied by milady, if she has a craving for the extreme. The skirt is in the popular walking fength which just escapes the ground, Many rows of black silk stitching give a finish at the bottom. The seams aro strapped with pointed tabs of the ma- terial piped with black velvet, which ex- tend to the e¢dge of the hem. Or, rather, each geam is covered with triple straps, which overlap at regular intervals. The whole tapers slightly toward the walist line. The same plan is followed as regar’s the coat seams, with the exception that five tabs overlap on each seam, and at tho walst line is another garniture of cut pearl buttons. Simiiar buttons fasten the front of the coat and give a finish to the mod- erate sized cuffs, These cuffs, as well as the shallow, much pointed yoke collar are of black velvet, outlined by triple rows of silk braid. HARRIET HAWLLY, A skin of beauty is a joy forever. R. T. FELIX GOURAUD'S ORIENTAL CREAM, OR MAGICAL BEAUTIFIER Removes Tan, Pimples, Freckles, Moth Patches, Rash and Skin Dis- ease, and every ’hlemhh on beauly, ;) and defles detection. G/ 1t has stood the temt of fifty-five yeurs, and Is so harmices we taste It te be sure It s properly made. Accept no counterfeit of sim - lar pame. Dr. L. it No other cos- do Purifies as well a2 beautifies the skin. metic will will use them, I recoramend “‘GOURAUD'S CREAM' as the least barmfe! of all the vkin preparations.’’ For sale by a1 druggists and fancy goods dealers in the United Btates und Hurope. FERD. T. HOPKINS, Prop'r. 7. solutely snd Permanently / hoads, Frece kies, Pimples, Redness, Bun= spote end Tan., Used with rms-Roysle Bosap & Pere fect ekin is insi Sold by direet. \Portraits and mtim.‘:.k-ml on vegquest, One Bottle FREE to Agents THE DEENMA-ROYALE CO.. 'Y