Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, August 30, 1903, Page 26

What is Going On in Woman’s World of Fashion EW YORK, Aug. 28 Perhaps it is because other fashions are not yet quite decided on that both tho shops and private makers are turning their attention to negli- ECor®. At any rate, numbers of them are everywhere shown, and since the house gown is not dependent upon mere novelly of cut, many delightful confections In quite anclent models are seen. The changes wrung on the kimona, in both long and short styles, are number- less, In silks of all sorts and plain, crin- kled and figured crepes, bordered with delicately flowered ribbons, these easy garments are disp'ayved on all sides, their prices recommending them to the nost modest purses and their elegancies captur- ing the heart. Bedroom kimonas are preferably in wash textures, Manila calicos, brilllantly figured and bordered with plain colors forming many. In these styles fair maidens of the smart set often submit their locks to the purifying processes of soap and water, “Jump-out-of-bed”' (saut de lit) is the title for one pretty wrapper of unusual daintiness, yet whose predominating point 18 one of extreme gimplicity, Fashioned In & sort of “angel robe"” shape—that Iis, something very loose and with wide, open sleeves—a band of hand embroidery, bor- dering the sleeves and open neck, is usually the principal decoration of this. One mode! in yellow Chinese silk was treated at these points to a simple herringbohe stitch, which with the hem formed a charming trimming. Any material which admits of hand stitchery is approved by the French for the more elegant house gowns, in which & one-color scheme s also a modish fad. Again, a touch of turquoise blue or coral will be used with dashing result, for the color combined with these is generally one of the many soft creams now in the mar- ket In this becoming shade are numerous qua’ities of embroidered batiste, some of which border on brown, they are so ten- derly hued, and all of which will be used for house gowns far into the autumn. A tea gown displayed by a first-class firm was of embroidered batiste in this warm cream. Cut in one, a band of deep turquoise and cream embroidery yet def- initely simulated an empire bodice effect and gracefully rounded bust. The neck was in a V-cut, which was accentuated by the bodice itself through a similar dispo- gitlon of three bands of the cream inser- tion. The lowest of these came well down on the shoulders, where the sleeves began flatly to end with the usual puff below. Three rows of fnsertion horizontally gave the front of the skirt a robe look; and a deep flounce, tucked at the top and em- broidered ut the bottom, finished it For the rest this delightful confection was openly and patently trained, as were almost all others of a similar elegance, Kimonas alone are cut floor length, which perhaps accounts for the fact that only small piquant types wear them gracefully. For the average American to look well in her house togs she must have something with soft, flowing lines, and if she can carry off a long train the more far-reaching it is the better. Pretty negligees to carry over to another summer, or to buy for immediate use, are the lace trimmed models in embroidered Swiss that the shops are now selling at re- duced rates. Floating fichus, wide sleeves and deep flounces give these the air of soft femininity striven for by all of the best house effects, and since the new Swisses arec made to wash many such gowns are decked with lingerie tape-ribbons. These, forming unnumbered species of rosettes, with pendant ends, are put on at points whenre bows would be used. With them no wider ribbons are ever employed, the gown belts in such cases being usually bands of the stitched Swiss. In the way of motive, cream lace is more rarely put with dead white now than form- erly, sueh contrasts being cousidered a 1t tle passe. Indeed, if the gown stuff and all its trimming match exactly in more distinguished it is considered. To prodece this result dressmakers (requently send & costume and its attendant frippecies to the dyer's before making. The gown texture is not dipped, unless it is to achleve just the right tint for the trimmings, which sometimes take a tinge not intended. In this way clever women are now mak- ing wse of squares of antique lace, which, after coloring, are inserted in house gowns of wool and silk with rich effect. And here a word on the subject of this same antique lace, for after worshiping at its shrine for a few breatliless weeks the world, which can afford incessant change, has wet it aside. Wherefore the thing of beauty is within the reach of all and ‘a 1Mt- tle knowledge of how to change its com- plexion, so to speak, will render it Invalua- ble. To begin, the dead white laces suggesting the coarse meshes of curtains and bad quilts, were always Inelegant and clumsy when made up alone, as many were in en- tire bodices and even gowns. But these game webs, tinted some other color and combined with ribbons, are charming for waists, which, when made well and in this way, will have a unique distinction. Saffron was the shade chosen for the wide tone the lace of one exquisite bodice, a flowered rib- bon in the same shade showing betwen the horigontal strips. A bodice in painted chif- fon displayed a single bund, tinted a deli- cate blue, running around the figure to simulate a bolero jackel. A solitary row also decked the huge puffs of the sleeves and a shaped stock of the lace finished the neck. Round lace and embroidered collars, fall- ing often as far as the eclbows, form the chief trimming of other bodices, some of which are of plain net fincly tucked. Polnt d’esprit aiso continues to be used for dressy odd waists, and a new KFrench web, defined by some of the manufactures as boule, con- tributes toward the black and white effects that are always approved, The foundation of boule is black silk net gossamer fine, which is embroidered with white In huge scattered balls. As to autumn rashions, rumors from Paris hint of checks and plalds, but then checks and plaids are always the recourse of the between-season period—and half the time they are realized only in talk. But certain it is that a wave is rolling toward the elevation of hats, which in many in- stances are nearly as flat as the proverbial dish. The narrow gored, ugly and confin- ing skirts are likewise to go, whiie an ia- creasing voluminousncss will distinguish all sleeves of a dressy nature. 80 much may be gathered from the mod- els already offered, but the rest time alone can decide. However, as all things are in- dicated in some way or other, the reaction agalnst the coarse laces may be taken as a sign that those that are cobweb fine will be the next sort in favor. The blonde va- rieties shown during the summer were of exceeding beauty, and being less calculated to attract the popular taste they have for- tunately not palled upon woman kind as have the coarser ones. Transparent stocks will likewise doubt- less remain, as well as all bodices on the blouse order. These have proved them- selves 100 becoming to Le shelved; and it stands to reason that no other charming styles will be utterly lost FOR CONFIDENTIAL MOMENTS. Changed in some way, modified or ex- aggerated, they will go on, merging them- selves at last into something forgotten by all except the historian. Like everything else, fashions are recurring, and the time comes when the most ancient garret yields up its faded treasures to set patierns for the world. But to return to the requirements and possibilities of the present. Practical and becoming effects for immediate use are suggested by all the shops, and if none of these bear the stamp of extraordinary nov- elty, they possess the merit of fitting the moment. For no matter how much one would choose to think otberwise when the 15th of September comes, the summer gown has a belated flower look. The alr of being left to bloom alone both the stores and private makers are now correcting with the simple use of black ribbon velvet, which, in many widths, lends autumn stamp to the airiest frocks. Rosettes of the same give tone to pale hats, upon which the substitution of autumn berries for the blooms of summer is likewise bene- ficial. In the way of colors for a new and needed gown, any tint which suggests the changing foliage of the season is a good one to choose, and no matter how old they scem the splendid reds and browns of the American forest continue to appear. From Paris a girl writes that the pret- tiest street costumes there are all au- tumnal in coloring. ‘‘But brown, you must understand, is the only autumn tint here. In a single night, as it would seem, the leaves turn & soft chocolate, which neutral shade has been secized upon by the Parisienne as the right one for her walk- ing frock. “Some of the gowns are all Iin the same tone, with gloves and hats to match; but a dash of orange is considered an effective contrast with these brown dresses and the flowers of hats, and cravats and sleeve ruffies are often in this rich tint. These last are either of raw silk or Canten crepe.” MARY DEAN, For and About Women Miss Maude Brown, an 18-year-old girl of Washington, Ind., has the distinction of being the only woraen mail carrier in the United States. 8he will net wear a uniform unless required 1o do so by the Postoffice department, Miss He'en Gould, who has liberally en- dowed the Young Memnds Christian associa- tions in a number of cities in Indiana, along the line of the Wabash railroad, has now arranged to place a number of libraries in :Jhe"dhulldlnxu which she has helped to uild, A. Connecticut girl, Miss Florence Mar Fitch, has received a doctor’'s degree wit honors from Berlin university, a thing which has nnli' been done by women nine times before in the history of the uni- versity. And three out of the nine were also Americans. Mrs. Ellen Spencer Mussey, dean of the Washington College of Law at Washington, is one of the ablest lawyers in the United States. She is the daughter of Platt R. Srencpr. author of the Spencerian system of penmanship, and was associated with her father in law practice. Mre. Mussey was instrumental in securing from congress the bill giving mothers in the District of Columbia the same right to their children as the fathers; also giving married women the right to do business and to control their own earrings. Miss Margaret Chandos-Pole, known as “‘the hbest sportswoman in England,” alse noted as a bachelor girl, globe trotter and brilliant conversationalist, is a celebrity at Newport, where she is the guest of Lls May Van Alen. She is a very handsome girl and therefore can afford to indulge ia open contempt for fashionably made gowns, which she never wears. She dances divinely, knows horses thoroughly, can command and sail almost any rig of yacht and can tell more about such craft than most of the men who never miss a race. Her apartments in London and Paris are immensely popular, chll‘ar;ger(y iR;)m-rg l"'IIQ x:rl whnfhad the oice o ving up the stage or forfeitin a 500,000 gequea(_ has chosen the nu: Jacob ers, the millionaire locomotive builder, 0 gave over $7,000000 to the Metropolitan Museum of Art, made a stipu- lation that his grandniece should forsake the stage hefore n-celvlnr a cent of his money. This was done before his death and the girl told him that she would not give up her profession for all his money. S0 she was cut off, She is only 16 and hasn‘t even yet got an enmgrmon{. vet she I'a;. s:\rnml:.-vlhflnd Shr:'z)es for a career hefore e footlights is a favorite Thomas Lipton. with s