Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, August 9, 1903, Page 26

EW YOMRK, Aug 1.--Some fine black and white effects are seen ameng the “hop” gowns worn at out-of-town resorts. The more splendid conceits are generally the privilege of matrons, but here and there a mailden frock will be found in this artistic and dashing combination. In such a case, especially if the wearer is in the flush of youth, the black touch Is of the most delicate description. ‘“Threadings’— chenille, velvet or ribbon strung through insertions—are used upon diaphanous tex- tiles with a piquantly youthful result, A Bwiss gown so treated had the whole top of the skirt barred with a fragile chemille cord put through lace beading. The edges of frills in airy textures are often outlined with this velvety thread, which will be often tied at intervals to form fAuffy loops or roseties. Any evening garniture which lends itself to a flower treatment is much admired, and some of the while ribbon roses seen are of a poetic loveliness. Folded and doubled in & way to bewilder the novice, these waxen ribbon roses hang ip sprays upon skirts, or are shaped in # odice bunches. Much foliage is used wi‘n them, and so perfectly do they simulate the real flower that only the perfume seems needed. In scatterad Instances bodice knots of the silk tape ribbons used on underwear are also seen, but, whereas on the undergar- ments the tying of these Is kept to the simplest arrangement, the tape-ribbon breast knot of a kodice will be a massed and complicated affair. If the wearer is a very young girl, an organdie or Swiss gown may display these ribtons tied in lingerie ways—that is to say, the massed knots are lightly achleved, and invariably show dangling ends tipped with single ones. Curiously enough, these novel and charming ornaments sometimes have the look of harnessed butterflies. The roses, which are very large, are made of satin ribbon in a heavy guality, and have an air at once bridal and gently sad. They are always flowers, wofully sweet flowers, such as we are accustomed (o assoclate with love and death. In this demand for floral ornamentation a very subtle use is made of a contrasting chiffon applied to chiffon, Roses with ralsed petals agd curled edges form part of an elaborate lace and embroidery trim- ming, and If the motive of such a gown is black and white it is all the more splen- dia. A superb French tollette in this com- hnation was recently worn by a youthful *“hop" chaperon, of a pale brunette type. With white chiffon as the background of the rich confection, the chiffon and lace flowers and embroldery were applied to black with a gorgeous result. The bottom of the skirt was very bouffant, the edge showing white under ruches of chiffon, first kilted and then doubled. Above this went a deep band of the black and white trim- ming, covering almost all the lower part of the skirt and separated from a hip yoke of the same by only the narrow expanse of white. A stralght bertha band of this magnificent trimming embellished the simply gathered bodice, which was of white chiffon. The slecves were in the shape of large puffs, shirred at the top and leav- ing the shoulders appliqued with black and white lace brailds of a fairy width, and above the square neck or the bodice cut shimmered a pearl necklace. . It is imcredible, considering the cost of them, how many genuine pearls are worn nowadays, and if they are not genuine they so perfectly simulate the real thing as to leave no room for criticism. Charm- Ing use Is also made of the trregular fresh- water pearls, which comrbined with shallow gems, provide delightful pendants for neck- laces. An evening fad at a well-known resort is to let the jewels match the coler scheme of the gown, and, as the imitation gems of the moment are so perfect, this is not difficult. Suppose a tall blond girl of in- definite coloring wears a gauze gown in old pinks, with pink sapphires for ornaments. Nine times out of ten they are only Montana stones, and the tenth time they may be glass, but the effect is neverthe- less good. The French are cleverer than our jewelers in their imitations of real gems, and some of the paste ornaments they send over for evening wear are marvelously beautiful. 8hould a deep-set stone become detached, you may discover that Scotch pebbles and pink sapphires are sometimes painted at the back. But remember the comparatively small price you have paid for your trinket and Kkeep quiet on the subject. The jewels of Golconda are not to be nud for 98 cents. But to return to chaperons, and, in- cidentally, to their “hop’ frocks, it is still evident that fashion loves the married woman better than the maid. The evening toilettes of the unweddea are charming, but a special license for originality seems to be Issued with the marriage ring. Even if the matronly gown is in virginal white, it may still be coquettish. Straight lines, almost Greek in their simplicity, dis- tinguished one charming whnite gown. This costume was made of white chiffon, em- broldered delicately with gilt tinsel, and suggested the box vobe pattern, improved by special touches given by the wearer. The majority of the box robe pattern gowns are too skimpily conceived, and even the more expensive of the models need to be added to as far as the hodice is concerned. Fortunately, many of the boxed materials can he easily matched, and if they cannot, the tastes of the hour are so liberal that any effective contrast is admissibie. Among the box robes, the ribbon trimmed nets lend themselves charmingly to even- ing uses. Some of them also show an effec- tive coarse lace pattern, In which case no ribbon trimming appears on the frock itself. With such sorts, thin {affeta linings and sashes and bodice knots of wide Louisine ribbon matching the color of the frock help to give a smart cffect. Unless patterned in some rare way, few sash vibbons fall In straight lengths, it being the fad to knot up everythinz that can be knotted. The soft riblons, which are very wide, arc crushe@l together and tied half way down the sash length in dra- gon-fly bows or knots. The tying at the ends of the sash match the device us2d elsewhere, and a fragment of the same ribbon, twisted in the same way, may be worn in the hair. In truth, the new summer girl is a knotty problem in more ways than one, Not only are her ribbons everywhere tled, but the fronts of her bodice may meet with this device for closing, and the chiffon te fork skirt edges, bodice berthas and entire slceves, is knotted, crumpled and manipu- lated in unnumbered ways. A chiffon gown in pinks shading to deep reds looked as if it were hung with garlands of fuch'as. Kilted flounce, waved at the edges, ani there massed with the pinched-up s‘uff--no other words seem adequate to de-cr.be this —achieved the flower look. A single flounce made in the same way formed the short sleeves, with the flower look sfill more pro- nounced. A very effective *‘hop” frock recently seen was of metallic blue chiffon, spingled with sequins in the same shade. This hung over shaded violets, with the result that as the proud wearer of it cro sed the moon- 1it lawn she was like the light and shadrw of the night. White chiffon spangled and gilt-embroid- ered suggested firefly gleams, and oane frock so treated owned a gilit-embroldered flounce which might have graced a queen. The weight of the gilt on these airy textiles causes them to hang in a limp and ciinging fashion. Foot ruches attached to the drop skirt promote the necessary voluminous- ness at the bottom, but the gilt-trimmel frock itself rarely a frilly, fussy thing. Indeed, the most effective note in sum- mer dress is struck by an exaggerated sim- plicity. Many bodice cuts take to a girlish rcundness, and may there be edged with the most childish little frill, put on flatly, and often with a beading of itself. As many plain skirts as trimmed ones are seen, and however modest the gauzy textures may be, it is considered appropriate for any summer evening wear, if properly handled. Embroidered Swiss, lace and ribbon trimmed achleve very pretty hop frocks for young girls, who alone are privileged to wear colored sashes. White and tinted or- gandies are also much in favor, and as tiny frills trim these charmingly, only rib- bons are needed besides. French organdies in pale colors over white are dainty concelts, and if the costume iy al! in one color, pompadour ribbons provide charming contrasts, Fans for evening use are very minute affairs, and show the Influences of long dead roya'ty. Some Louls XV designs are scarcely six inches long. With straight or curved tops, pearl sticks, spangles, paint- ings, and what not, they are the darlings DAINTY HOP TOILETTES FOR MAIDS. i is Going On in Woman’s World of Fashion of the hour. As much as $25 i= paid for quite a simple one. Like a portrait with a pearl necklace, it is almost o certificate of gentility; and think of the possibilities for coquetry in such a rare and radiant weapon! The new evening shoes are quite as co- quettish as these dainty little fans. Some of them are in gros grain silk, exquisitely embroidered by hand. Lace rosettes em- bellish them, and silk stockings are worn matching the gown. Delightful petticoats are made of French lawn, with deep-shaped flounces fashioned entirely of narrow rows of valenciennes in- sertion. A cunning gathering, increasing with every row, gives an effective flare to these delicate flounces, which have a proper ball airiness. Nevertheless, as compared with other dressy skirts, these valenclennes trimmed petticoats are very cheap. Excel- lent ones are sold for $7, and good models may be fcund for less. MARY DEAN, Frills of Fashion With cream-toned dresses carved fvory ormaments are being worn. Shirt waists of white Madras are decor- ated with spider-like designs in black. Reproductions of the styles of 1830 are ex- pected to be much in evidence during the next few months, Summer veils include those of a thin diaphanous stuff resembling chiffon, with a very lustrous sheen. Combination gold and silver galloon is used as trimming on some recent produc- tions in hats and wraps from leading Paris- ian designers. Plaited slecves, cape effects, cords, balls, ndants, fringes, buttons and embroidered ands are features of the new styles in separate coats. A veiling novelty is on the order of thin crepe de chine furnished with a border in fancy cat-stitch forming diamonds. This velling comes in all colors, Li s are among the fashionable flowers decoration. White, blue and purple blossoms are combined in large wreaths and placed around the brim of straw hats. Embroidered tussore makes a lovely sum- mer gown and one seen recently in this fabric was set off with deep shoulder cape in self m rial and bLelt of taffeta to match., A t of burnt straw trimmed with green foilage and white tulle caught at the back with two steel ornaments was worn with this costume. ¢ A skin of beauty is u fuy forever. R. T. FELIX GOURAUD'S ORIENTAL CREAM, OR MAGICAL BEAUTIFIER ESeu "3§ y Removes Tan, Pimyles, by Freck.es, Moth Patches, .gz‘ ~ Rash and Bkin Dis- €= )y ease, and every $e3 Cy'blemish oa beauty, 23z N7 and defies detection. b g 4 1t bas stood the test E :i ¢ of fifty-five years, 2% ] and is 0 harmless we Laste It to Le sure it ls properiy wade. Accept o counterfelt of simi- lar name. Dr. L. A. Sayre sald to a lady of the haut- ton (a patient): TAs you ladies them, I recommend ‘“‘GOURAUD'S CREAM'' as ths least barmiul of all the skin preparstions.’’ Fur sale by all druggists and fioey goods dealers in the United States and Europe. FERD. T HOPKINS, Prop’s, H OQreat Jones 8. N X,