Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, September 14, 1902, Page 14

1902 SURE SIGNS OF FALL STY Gowsip About Shirtwaists, Ba Skirtn, ¥ and Ve YORK 12.~Despite the fort to shelve them odd bodices are again in the field. They take the place of the ehirtwaist frocks which lately succeeded them for house ousting in turn their rivals, and even more triumphantly There are reasons for this re newed interest in the fancy walst, the chief one being that it is the embodiment of the attainable. Five yards of material will make one, and those who tremble at the of stuffs.can always find Inex pensive remnants in this length; just now radiant pieces of Shantung ,pongee—deep blues, #s and dull reds—fragments of volle, canvas, cheviot and laine, in all of which materials the new walsts appear Five charming designs give admirable hints to the home dressmaker, who knows the velue of fancy stitchery and:odd bits of trimming One of the newest models of all is a low- cut blouse checked brown and white linen canvas, such materials b very NEW Sept wear several cost gre much in evidence for autumn house wear. The liflen 18 of the heaviest quality, loosely woven and without stiffening. The chiof trimming of the blouse, which shows the usual Inverted mutton leg sleeve, is a bias of stout’ white linen, running around the meck and down the front, and worked with black. A narrow black wash brald outlines this, some leat applications made of the same showing at the front of the blouse. The neck is filled in with a light-weight black linen, the fincly tucked vest and stock in one plece. Stock finieh and cuffs are of the black and white embroidery. Another dashing waist, which has prac- tical suggestions, is built on the same model with the exception of a slight lap- ping of the fronts. This is of tucked cream wool volle, with a band trimming of black taffeta, crossed by a piping of the volle in lattice work. A third useful walst tin, with horizontal stitched with white. A shawl collar of Irish lace, applied to black mousseline, and turning back from a vest of tucked white silk and fagotting, embellishes the upper portion of this. At the bust a soft bow of the satin, cut bias, is placed All of these waists blouse slightly at the tront, and siow backs without seamins Many with back fastenings, however, are seen, though such styles are generally preferred for airy textiles, such as lace mousseline and net A Daszzling Confection, A very fetching walst, buttoned at back, 18 of asure silk muslin with broldered bands of deep yellow batiste. novelty with this is a transparent yok tashloned of vertical stripes of narrow black velvet The: connect a round band of ombroidery af the shoulders with the stock of batiste and muslin, suggesting dazzling possibilities for a pretty neck Everywhere trimmings of batiste are seen 1n all the tones of cream found so effect ve with color. Scattered medallions and ovals 1n theso tenderly tinted embroderies adorn is of black liberty groups of tucks the om A THE SIMPLE GOWN. many a mousseline walst, and on the silk | models splendid cape collars and cuff pleces Apropos they are more on the fanciful which seemed to require some sort The bobbed-off look in the back with contrasting skirts and bodices was never becoming. The postillion are used as well as postillion tail of these rear appendages. seen than ever, especially walsts of a tail #0 noticeable tabs therefore supply a graceful finish, aside from thelr ornamental they really make a walst garment I have told of the bodices In heavy Mnen, in volle, silk and mousseline; but there are more bewlildering fancies to come, waists of Unlined, and London sends the models of these charming little The walsts are especlally pop- tucked No other trim- but the tucking. which Itke- | stocks and cuft lace net and point d'esprit made with a surpassing simplicity. bodices, which are point d'esprit ular, in deep ecrus, the garment all over or only partially. ming s used wise forms bands. the rage there the straight Transparent Bodices. A chilly for this season, but then you know Eng- lish women don't suffer from the cold as Far into the autumn we are told transparent yokes and sleeves will be worn in London; the airy bodices under jackets, whose open fronts will reveal what may be denominated as rather bare glimpees. Not- withstanding the invitation to pneumonia transparent bodices will doubtless here also, for they are very charm- Then they may be worn over high loss of i style, and any woman with two ideas can we do. these “go ing. silk underbodices without a great make them herself. Two yards and a half of point d'esprit (seventy-two inches wide) will make one of For the all- tucked models three yards will be needed, than $3, 98 | cents being the common price for cotton should button at the back and boast the sleeves, which | the partially tucked walsts. which means something less point d'esprit. The walst bulge Concluding course the s in 'pufts at the bottom. the odd bodice subject, suitable to the season. els running to a “fixy” work of all sorts. Judging from some of the gowns sent is torn between the | The imported | the very costumes bristling with braide, embroideries and applications, and the mod- over to us, Parls gorgeous and ultra simple. models partake of both genres, claborate est ones chiefly self-trimmed. Right Up to Date. Belg cent recaption gown, Qull green panne. between heavy ing sleeves. A sctte of tucked white Are Unequalled In Duleu~cni-un_ ormamentation, beauty of outline and armonious proportions. 'Ill.l‘—‘mt:film& of 5. ma castings, perfect fittings and nickeled pa °°uvllli¥°‘!—:m;.nlny laborsaving devioes o the ploasure. whieh BCONOM Y - Scientifio construction that secures best resuits with loast iucl possibilities seem more of & freak of fashion, you will say, of t walst of honored memory is with us, made in all the wools and silks | But to a great de gree it has lost its manishness, new mod- look, with con- trasting yokes and vests and rich needle- | cloth composed one very magnifi- with applications of These were scattered | embroideries of black, green and brown, the richer work trimming | the skirt from the knees down and border- | graceful shoulder cape and flowing vest trimming—over a chemi- mull—was made by soart of the great panne. at the bust in a flat bow, a smaller one forming a cravat at the throat A frock of the unpretentious family wa |even more fetching, affording as it did a | glimpse of things possible for the woman of restricted means. Brown was also the | color of this charming gown, the material |a beavy wool canvas as soft as fiannel. A | deep Kilted skirt flounce was matched by a bodice kilted all over, the heavily pressed | pleats hanging loose from the silk lining The top part of the skirt was stitched about the hips and knees in the way now #0 much seen and revers and cuffs of white cloth embroidered with coral—pink and | black—begayed the walst richly with these emroiderics was an edge of pale green cloth, for green, it seems, I8 to touch up everything. The one skirt of the coming season which 1s distinctly new has a habit back buttoned {from belt to hem. This does not show the lfioum‘e prevailing elsewhere, but is made with a ridiog skirt plainness and chiefly in walking lengtbs. Another, newish and ef- fectiye skirt is in shallow side pleats with one huge box pleat at the back, nar- rowing at the top. At the bottom the pleat flares tremendously and as it lies every- where very flatly, the effect is extremely 0dd, suggesting on too slim wearers that the skirt is put on “hind side before.” On graceful figures, however, such jupes are stunning Other skirts show many variations of the graduated flounce, and all gored skirts have the apron breadth extremely narrow 1t Is wonderful what an improvement these almost straight and narrow front gores are to large hips. They almost seem to de- crease weight, so slimming are they. And since they appear in the newest models a wide skirt front is a sure indication that you are not up to the subtleties of fashion In short it fs the detail which makes the elegant gown nowadays. New Things in Millinery. New hat shapes are displaying a flatners | which may in time be anything but beau- titylng. Already some very nearly re- semble the homely dinner plate, and the most modest models all show trimmings put on to emphasize low round broad effects. On the right head certain huge saflors are not without charm, if they are startling | 1o a degree; and some little three-cornered chapeaux, simply and compactly trimmed, appeal to fairly reasonable tastes. A cocky Ijttle French hat in three-cornered shape | is made of tucked felt, the lightest weight imaginable. Big side roscttes distinguish the best of these, the ribbons used being sometimes a brilliant blue on black. The big sailors have shallow rolled brims and wide crowns too low to be seen above. The trimmings of these are also mainly ribbons, with wings and breasts put on as if glued. Nothing is allowed to etand up on such headgear. Chapeaux which incline to more elaborate treatment are the scooping shapes—far over the face and short in the back—worn this long while. New models in these have the back brim rollcd up instead of down as formerly, with no sign of the old rear trim- ming over the halr. Nevertheless some splendid lace veils will continue the cascading over the hair. Fashion conceeding the rear fall too en- tracing to be utterly squelched. From Parie come the best of the new lace vells, which will be worn in loose- hanging curtains with loopcd scarf ends. All have elaborate borders, and even the made veils in fancy nets are edged in some way. In putting on such a vell remember that the border must come below the chin Otherwise you will look Ilke a warrior from the wars—bandaged, if you will know the word. MARY DEAN. d MAKING MONEY FOR CHARITY, Doing a Wholesa « Business Miniatare Scale. A clever plan by which church workers or members of any benevolent society may easily raise funds, and which incidentally affords much amusement, has been started by the young people’s soctety of a large church, and the profits are now pouring in Eack member Is given from the treasury a small sum to be invested in some profita- ble way for the bemefit of the work of the organization. The amount taken depends on how the member proposes to invest, $1 being sufficient capital for a junior mem- | ber. Most of the momey is invested in useful articles known to be in demand among thelr friends. Through business men of the church, or their own fathers or brothers, they are able to get goods at wholesale. For instance, one Investor goes to an acquaintance in a publishing house, gets & dozen or more coples of a popular book which everyo..s wants sooner or later, and retatls them to all who want coples. The profits being turned into the treasury, another fleld of investment may be sought. Another member buys at a reasonable price a dozen coples of a popular song or col- lection of music, through a musical friend. A special dress shield was bought in quan- tity by one girl, and found a ready sale, while still another obtains tooth brushes, a third makes a specialty of household magazines, etc. Younger societies of the | church take interest in the work, the boys and girls selling great numbers of penetls, erasers and other things to school friends and those who become interested in movement Bulletin boards in the rooms of societies taking up this idea may be made useful | Thia was tied Contrasting | | member the | | | ay of advertising the wares cach is selling, and cards bearing the same information and telling of the object of the work may be prepared at a meeting and distributed to acquaintances. Consid- erable business practice is acquired by the boys and young men, while these of the fair sex have not failed to show equal business activit in the TWO WOMEN AND MAN'S VALUE. Wide Difference in Their Estima Regarded as Encouragin The value of man to woman depends, It seems, altogether on the viewpoint of woman, reports the Chicago Inter Ocean. Mrs. Gillis of Chicago, for example, re- gards Mr. Gillis, her husband, as meraly “a necessary evil,” while Mrs. Edward Gary of Eaton Raplds, Mich., estimates the affection of her husband at $15,000. Mrs. Gillis does mot, it appears from testimony, care a straw about her husband or his affection, and she practically con- tesses that she has tolerated him simply | because of his ability to provide for her wants, which seem to have been numerous and somewhat expensive. Mrs. Gary, on the other hand, is a woman who in all prob- ability would love her husband even if she had to do the providing, and who considers the loss of his affection one of the greatest misfortunes that could possibly befall her. The perversity of human nature is such that Mrs. Gillis, who cares nothing about man, either in the abstract or the concrete, | and would not give up the pleasures of a woman's club for all the affection of all the men In Christendom, has been much }helm treated, it the legal allegations are true, by the man she regards as a neccs- sary evil, than Mrs. Gary, a wifely woman, has been treated by the man whose affec tions she values at $15,000 cash. How to account for this we do not know, nor is it worth while to try, but the fact remains, if the facts are as stated, tha! whereas Mrs. Gary deserved all the affec- tion of her husband and did not. get ft, Mrs. Gillis, who was entitled to only a very | small share of her husband's affections, | got a good deal of it, until quite recently. Mr. Gillls' interests in life took him to Danville, where he had established him- self in business. Her interests in life held her in Chicago, where she had formed some Indissoluble associations with a woman's club. He wanted her to live in Danville. She could not live, she sald, in such a small town. He finally became tired of paying for two homes, so he ceased to send her money. She sued him for separate maintenance. The testimony In the case proved that she cared nothing for her husband and everything for the allowances that he had the ability but not the disposition to make her. Her admission that she regarded him merely as a necessary evil settled the matter, and her proceeding was very prop- erly thrown out of court, the costs befng assessed against her. The case of Mre. Gary is entirely differ- ent. She is sulng a young woman bearing the romantic name of Pearl Darling for the alienation of her husband’s affections, and she has fixed the damages at $13,000. If the truth is told in the case $15,000 is altogether too high a price to place upon his affections, but that is not the point. The point is that Mrs. Gary thinks they are worth $15,000 and perhaps a great deal more. S0 man has no reason to feel discour- | aged, notwithstanding Mrs. Gillis' poor opinion of him. There is, thank heaven, a Mrs. Gary to every Mr. Gillls. Perhaps it would not be going too far to say that there are several Mrs. Garys to every Mrs. THE ELABORATE GOWN. Gillls. If this were not the case soclety would soon be shaken to its foundation s of hion. Painted sashes, it s predicted, will be a feature of the bridesmaid’s costume for fall weddings, Tiny gilt buttons are enjoying an excep- tlonal degree of popularity as ornaments for tailored costumes Some of the new short coats are finished with short shoulder cape pointed at the back; others have Capuchin hoods. The newest buckle is made of platinum and some of the more elaborate designs in this metal are tinted and studded with coral Matinees and tea jackets are made of Shantung pongees in the delicate new tints and embellished with trimming of yellow lace and black velvet ribbon. For trimming purposes lizard green, orange and old rose are the new colors and they dispute supremacy with the vivid blues and greens that have held sway for s0 long Pallettes of mother of pearl are utilized by Parisian designers for outlining the pat- terns of the guipure robes in cream, ecru and white now so much worn at the French capital Wall paper men, furniture dealers and all manner of Interior decorators say that there is to be a revival of the Duteh and Flemish influence in the arts devoted to household decoration, says The Uphols- terer. Big loving cups of cut glass and sflver are effective. The entire center is, of course, of the glass, the low standard of the silver, and a wreath of the silver ex- tends around the upper part. The wreath is in some open work design, usually of flowers, -and in a thistie design is charming. One of the most attractive boas to be seen Is of the green and blue iridescent cocque’s feathers. It is almost a collar around the throat and with long ends fall- ing below the waist. The feathers are | curled, each. feather seeming to be a tiny iridescent green fern. The old-fashloned hair trunk has come in for jewelry. It is coversd with cowhide, with the red and white hair left on it. The shape of the trunk is that of the round- topped old-fashioned trunk, a littie higher in'proportion, however, for there must be & tray to thes: jewel caskets A pretty stock and tle is of a tiny black- and-white checked silk. There are two turnovers at the top, the upper one of the check falling over the lower one of white, of which only a narrow edge shows. The tie i« of hemmed silk, not very wide, and forms a small bow. ¥or and About Women. Miss Mabel Greene, an_ accomplished young woman of Winstead, Conn., has been appointed a mail carrier in her section and will serve her route on horseback. Miss Marfon Raymond of Boston, ac- companied by two Swiss guldes, cidmbed to the summit of Mount 8ir Donald, B. C. on Tuesday, the second time the ascent has been made by a woman. A Boston girl has the honor of being the second woman to take the ascent of Mount 8ir Donald, British Columbla. She has thus demonstirated her right to being considered henceforth among the upper classes. Mrs. Charlemagne Tower is on her way to the United States to place her sons in an American institution to be educated, as the ambassador says that after thoroughly investigating foreign schools he has con- cluded that American schools are the best. The empress of Russia’s hobby Is sald to | be caricaturirg and collecting caricatures. She has the ready talent of catching a likeness and transmitting it to paper, %o that even those who are most caricatured cannot but laugh at the goodnatured way in which they are “‘taken off.” Several women in Texas are making a success of ranching. One of them Is Mrs. Pauline Whitman, who owns a ranch of 200,000 acres in the panhandie. There she raises 15000 cattle annually using only twenty cowboys for their handling, and successtully competing In the market with the kings of the cattle trade. Mrs. Mackay's KI(-(urc qus esting to_all bel rief 18 Inter- olders, says the New Yorker. 1t eally asfonishing what at- tractive: things In the way of mourning the modistes can get up these days. The prettiest woman need not be disturbed about putting on black. Black silk hose, with applications of thread lace on the in- step, are the latest way of showing your grief in your stockings. These, In addition to u sweeping vell and sheer black silk bodice, are enough to make woc quite as beautiful as mirth. No trie womi ring with the echo of childis fails so thrill an’s heart is happy which does not laughter, which at the touch of a soft dimpled hand which is flesh of her {esh. To those who crave motherhood, and through terror at the t themselves of here.” hought of so much suffering, deprive it. wesay ** Be of good cheer—help is MOTHER'S FRIEND has made child bearing easy for thousands of women in the last forty years, and receives their hearty endorsement, not only on account of its efficacy but also because it is & pleasant balm for external application only, and not a bitter dose of drugs to be swallowed. By its use you may esc-r morninfi swelling breasts and ma the usual d of pregnancy. sickness, y iscomforts MOTHER'S FRIEND eases the nerves, relaxes the muscles, and softens the abdominal tissues, so that they give with the pressure from the ex; Al drug Write us for nding sta keep it organ. Tt costs $1.00 per bottle. our FREE treatise on * Mothethood THE BRADFIELD REGULATOR CO., ATLANTA. GA. SCHOOLS, BROWNELL HALL. A_well equipped school for girls. the Women's college of Baltimore, the of Chicago, included in the corps 'of modern res for any college open to wom.n. pecial attention to the development of & sense of social responsibility. Swedish apraratus. Physical instructor. Haopy home life. Macrae, Principal, Omaha. Graduates of V \ instructors - for guages taught by women of extended restdence under the Instruction of the best masters. 1 sar_college, University of Nebraska, 1902 08, Radclift_coliegs, and the University Music, art and the European capita education and pre- admits to collage. he development of in Gives good, general Principal's certificate individuality and also Thoroughness insisted upon as essential to charac- ter building. Out-door sports and a laige, new training daily Terms moderate. sunny gymnastum oquipped with nder the direction of a professional Send for catalogue. Address Miss A SKIN OF BEAUTY IS A JOY FOREVER R. T. FELIX GOURAUD'S ORIENTAL CREAM, OR MAGICAL BEAUTIFIER. v, tion. years, snd s T is properly mads Accept no countes me. Dr. Beautifies Skin. No other cos- metle will doit Purifies and (= _patient): ‘As you ladies will use them, I recom. pend ‘GOURAUD'S CREAM as the least ncy Goods harmful of ail the Skin prepara lons." gale by. il Druggists and P Dealers in the U. 8. and Europe FERD. T. HOPKINS, Prop’ 4 Great Jones St N. Y. PEREMPTORY AUCTION SALE AT CHICAGO On Wednesday and Thursday, September at 108 m., we will sell at public count Fire Underwriters at our rooms and 2 uction for a ditional STEWART BROS. & CoO, Wholesale Shoes. Pittsburg, Pa., Consisting of $300,000.00 Worth of BOOTS, SHOES & RUBBER COODS Embracing 10,000 Cases Men Shoes, 8,500 Cases Hood and Old Colony Rubbers. 1.000 Cases Felt Boots, Etc. Full and complete lines perfect condition and in original cases. exhibition - twg . days before aale. a SAMUEL GANS, Mana, Western "y LOW RATES TO Pacific_Coast ROCK ISLAND SYSTEM LOS ANGELES. FRANCISCO. TLAND. Tickets O Sale Ev OCTOBER City Ticket OMece 1328 FARNAM STREET. and every and defies detec- it _has stood 54 similar L. A Sayre said to a ia- dy of the haut-ton 111 and 113 Lake Bt Chicago, the saivage of Women's and Children's 95 per cent in practically Stoeks on lvaga Wrecking Agency The Froebel School %67 Farnam Street. Reopens SEPTEMBER 15, 1902, Kindergarten (limited) = Primary Grammar Grades. HARRIET HELLER, Tel. F 4 SCHOOL BILLS REDUCED Special fnformation and rebates on school feey secured for limitad_number of students in each savaral hundred schools of the higheat stapding, Located in all parts of the country :Colieges, You Ladies' Boarding Schools; Military Sého of Law, Modicine, Deniistry, Pharmacy, Business Mosic,'Art. W (nvie corraspond ance from parsons who wish 10 attand any school, or who bave children to educate. Catalogue of any school free. American Lducational Company, 815 Dearborn St.. © o, o and -4 Prin o we taste ‘t o. i~ “lowa College, Grinnell, lowa DAN F. BRADLEY, President, Bth Year Opens September 17th, 1902 FACULTY of thirty-five: well appointed LABORATORIES: MUSEUM: LIBRARY of thirty thousand volumes; Men's and Women's GYMNASIUMS; ' ATHLETIC FIELD I0WA COLLEGE S8CHOOL OF MUSIC; special course in Organ and Churc Musle IOWA COLLEGE ACADEM prepares for any college For information address J.H. T. MAIN, Dean of the Facuity. CURED BY WHITE RIBBuN REMEDY No taste, No odor. Can be given in glast of Water, tea, or.coffee without patlent's knowledge. v White Ribbon Remedy will cure or. de- wtroy the diseased appetite for alcoholic stimulafits, whether the patient {8 a_con- firmed (nebriate 4 “tippler,” soclal drinker or drunkard.. Impossible for anyone to have an appetite for alcoholic liquors after using White Ribbon Remedy. Indorsed by Members of W. C. T. Mrs. Moore, press superintendent of Wo- man’s, Christian. Temperanca Union, Ven: ura, Callfornia, writes: “I have tested White Ribbon Kemedy on very obstinate drunkards, and the cures have been many. In many cases the Remedy was given se- cretly. 1 cheerfully recommend and indorse White Ribbon Remedy. Members of our Union are delighted to find an economical treatment to ald us in our temperance waork." Drugglsts or by mall, §L free by writing Mrs. A. M. Townsend (for years secretary of @ Woman's Christian Temperance Unfon), 218 Tremont St., Bos- ton, Mass. Sold in' Omaha by CUT PRICE SCHA :FER,S DKUG STORE Phone 7.7, 8. W. Cor. 16th and Chicago. Goods deliverel FREE to any part of olty. Trial package EW PUBLICATIONS, Tour Fortune Toll Free Eoi o Uil i et MAGAZINE OF MTOTEEIRS, 32 . Willian S, .7 City. Move Your Office. While hete are only about ten vacant rooms in the whole Bee Huhding there are among them, some of the very choicest offices in the building and also some, which, while not so desirable, can be rented at a very low price. The rental price you must remember, includes light, water, heat and jan- {tor service. as well as immunity from fire insurance because the building 1s absolutely fire-proof. List of vacant rooms in The Bee Building First Floor. SUITE 101: There is no ea just on the right hand indows looking upon on Farnam street. a burglar-proof vault, marb will be frescoed to suit tenant ROOM 107 some one who needs a north light. 4 including the floors. and is a barg throughout in hardwood, Thi ROOM 338: of ihe cholcest rooms in the bullding suit the temant if a private office office, having entrance facl Seventeenth street. It has a very floors and is just the kind of an office that ix ROOM 431: This room ls 15xM4 feet and room, and has a burglar-proof vaulf er office gulte in Omaha T han of the great marble stairway, and bas un- the court FourthFloor. Rerital Per Month thap this one. It ia io- the front entrance way of the build One room s 17x19 and the other Sx1J lo mantel plece, hardwood floors. and 3 rice $75.00 Here Is & room that will be particularly adapted for an architect uare; finished Price. $20.00 The room is 20 teet rd Floor. This is the only room on the second or third floor vacant, and is one It is 17x82, and can be’ divided to is desired. It Is a decidedly handsome and windows looking out on bur proof vault, hardwood atd to obtain ordinarily. large aces the court, is & light, pleasant Pri Fifth Floor. SUITE 814: This 1s and well ventllated. The Bee Building. s large number of clerks, or requ ewcler, or manulacturer's agent. ny %0: This is o light, attr and while It faces the west, beiag RooM very large room. 11x4s feet. It is very seldom that It could be used to advantage by some firm emp or it will be divided to suit the tenant tive room. It faces west. but is very light pace of this size is offered in ying lurge floor space—a Wholesale like 1o be in a fireproof bul Price $60.00 wash stand, is ilgnt, and for iring Who woul 1t Has ‘a stationary on the fifth floor it DURATILITY—Lastiug quality renderiag fow repairs necessary. Every “GARLAND" Sold with Written Guaranty Leading Merchants Throughout the Country. w Prices rauge tram 85 1o $80. Sebd by Progreasive Stove Merchasts Everywhars. Made oply by The Michigan Stove Company, Largest Makers of Stoves and Rangesio the World, some one not in need of large floor space, would mak ne office.. Price $10,00 ROOM 6311 This room faces the court and ls 18x14 feet. It nas a burglar-proof vault, and as it is near the telegraph office and on the same floor with's numbes of grain firms, it would be & particular good room for & grain firm desiring first-cliss accommodation . Price $20.08 Sixth Floor. rooms. both Wexilly kach of them hus a large rglar-proef vault, b been newly decorated and are rooms where s Dr profeasianal man may be comfortable. Price for the two R. C. PETERS & CO., Ground Floor, Restal Ageuts. Bee Building SUTYE €10: This consists of tws L) 4