Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, September 7, 1902, Page 14

—————————— A ———— 14 Ly FEATURES OF FALL FASHIONS, den NEW. YORK, Sept. 6.—Recently imported gowns for sutumn and winter wear show delightful eapé collar effects. The collars fall but a few inches below the shoulder line, and a drooping and softly feminine look denotes the best models. Sometimes these shoulder coverings are n two pleces, a short, plain collar over a longer trimmed one; the deckings of this stitehed applications, fancy braids or velvet or taffeta bands. The front edges of both the capes round gracefully up to the throat. There, a trimmed square collar turns over, bammered metal clasps or velvet sirings fastening the stylish detall with etreet stuffs. Very beautiful are the cape effects of some of the fancler gowns, frocks for aft- ernoon visiting, driving, theater wear, etc. These are most charming in a single piece, for here the cape collar is only & modish excuse for elaborate ornamentation. Braided box gowns of lady's cloth, of which there | are a number In the market, with the collar plece richly deccrated all over. The rest of the gown bralding may be In bands, whch' frequently completely bar the sleeves and front and back of the blouse hodire. T waist of a cloth gown In delft blue, wll‘\luk alik brajding, d'splayed th's novel trea®aent. The skirt was odtlined at fhe front, robe.fashion, by two of the bands and bordered at the sides and back by seven, Put on ag were those of the bodice. Collars of transparent guipures, with In- DRESS WITH TABS FOR A SCHOOL GIRL. eta of the gown cloth, are elegant features of some of the French costumes. Black may appear In the needlework of these splendd fxings—the cloth and silk insets (for there are silk In: too) are commonly put in by hand—but the latest madness of fashion 18 to have the smart tollette in one color. A modiste of reputation writes from Paris: “The most charming tollettes of the Bols are of cloth with trimmings of the same, strappings and stitchings always matching in tone. Costumes worn by ultra fashionables are of coral pink cloth, azure blue, mist gray and soft ‘September’ brown." Pa Vests of white mull or lace, declares this lady, at most relleve such one-color suits, which show hip outlinings in bands and bodices and skirts only The inverted mutton- leg sleeve, which puffs above the wrist band and fits closely at the shoulder, she pro- nounces the only one likely to surpass all others In popular favor. “Here, indeed, such sleeves are only too much the rage, but one rejoices to see that the best makers keep the drooping puff ‘within bounds. The least evidence of exag- geration suggests the shop made, and such @ atamp, you must understand, is fatal in Parle. You must always look as If your gown is & creation—made especially for you—whether it i or not.” Incidentally Americans visiting Paris are advised to seek out clever “little” dre: makers in preference to buying costumes ready made. “They are geniuses, some of them, which accounts for the fact that they are 8o soon snapped up by the wholesale peop] Thirty francs (36), we are told, is the price charged by these modest dressmakere for the making of the smartest gowns. Some novelty wool costums ow das- sling schemes of color. A Paris gown of September brown wool—a delicate, dead- leat shade—is combined with a thin glisten- ing silk in shaded orange. This is finely kilted and put on in bands between others of the wool, embroldered, braided and cut out a jour. A deep border of this trimming finishes the bottom of the slightly trained skirt. The blouse bodice . bas an encircling band of the embroldery At the bust and one of the round-fromt are supplied | "I'a tigrt cap at capes with a row of the kilting and a breast scarf of orange in the deeper shade. The scarf ties In a pretty bow Bigh on the chest, the ends fastening in & crueh . belt of the same mater! The sleeves of all these three gowns were the inverted mutton legs approved in Paris. Ho Gowns. Nothing could be more effective for house gowns than falls of lace on embroidery over the shoulders. Drooping fichus and capes give a look of grace where there s nonme, just s a train does; a look of femininity, 1f you will, which s always desirable. A batch of pretty house growns dis- played In a leading department store re- | venled the new cape collar in its most | enchanting shapes. Everything was done to make the shoulders loeg and drooping, the widening of the sieeves at the bottom | adding to the down falling effect. A deliclous house, frock on the princess | order showed bunches of grapes worked at | The yoke and fromt of the dress, which was of fvory white cashmere, were fn all- over lace, bordered by a bias of white | taffeta, needle-worked. The same banding zigzagged over the narrow front, four scant | trills finishing the skirt at sides and back. A very dalnty dress of pastel gray volle | ding from a grap lace collar. The siceves held in shape by mere pressing. The back and sides of the skirt were kilted, the |apron gore being left plain and outlined | with bands of the lace. A charmingly graceful detall was a sash of black velvet. This was cut blas and tied in a round bow at the front with long ends, Among the new automn and winter colors many wonderful shades of blue are seen. There are also rich browns, dull reds ma nificently effective, and the blue and green combinations so much worn this summer. Contrary to expectation, it Is declared that this combination shall go triumphantly through the. autumn and winter, trough it will be seen mainly in gown textures. A beautiful Scotch wool in fnvisible plaids (something very indistinct) shows a line of black with the blue and green. Braids in Favor. Bralds. will not be used again, plain rows, the widths gradus in many novel ways. A street gown of blue French cloth re- cently worn by one of New York's smart set showed the braid fever in a form as wild as eftective. Huge targets had been made by sewing a narrow black hraid round and round. These bordered the skirt in a single row, the targets placed at inter- vals of six Inches. The tailed bodice showed only two, but they were as vast as those of the skirt. Placed over each bust, these had something of the look of the breast shislds wern by the A gons of anclent history. Nevertheles fuony as it was, the etriking arrangement called for the admiration of every eye. The gown was plainly executed, only for its present owner. Beyond a doubt it was the sole blossom of its kind in existence. The back of the jacket waist was re- lieved from plainness by a round collar trimmed with the brald in straight rows. The same bordered the basques and deep cuffs of the sleeves. These were. tucked in o top, which greatly in- creased the length of the shoulders. At the bottom of the sleeves there were, of course, the usual puffs. It is plain that overskirts are once more striving for recognition, many of the im- ported gowns showing tentative efforts in this direction. As yet the jupe draperies are Dbeautifying, the double skirts seen being mainly cut with flowing Greek lines. But there are basques suspiclously remin- iscent of the peplums of ye olden days, the upward slashings suggesting the former looping. Provided we don't return to “plnbacks” and bustles, however, we may endure the overskirt. One of the nmew ekirts has the back in three kilted flounces, headed by a wide band of trimming. The narrow apron gore —and apron gores are narrower than ever—is made entirely of the trimming, embroidery tucking or braiding. Graceful Skirts. But' the most graceful skirt is still the one severely simple in cut. The lines are long and flowing, a judicious shaping of the bottom producing the requisite foot flare. Sometimes the flare is made by the deep flounce seen this long while, but the mewer method achleves it with the skirt cut alone. A concession to novelty—for falr women must have some change—is to outline a hip yoke with several rows of stitching, which extend down the almost straight apron gore. With this decoration a grad- uated flounce is often simulated by the lfltchlnlv which, if it is in the color of ywn and well done, is very handsome. Conlr-th. stitchings are not now so pop- ular. Bodice models show many variations of the blouse walst, which for dressy ces- tumes will still be a prime favorite. Street gowns, especially those for ordinary wear, contioue to be made with jaunty Eton Jackets. - These neat little coats have been found too generally becoming to be di carded. A pretty short coat model polats deeply at the front and hangs straight at the back. There it & very short, for the tendency of all the tailless coats now Is to show some portion If not all of the belt. Many of the loose coats are im kilts, the necks finished with low collars and the fronts with stole pleces widening at the bottom. These are sewed to the coat and generally show the trimming used else- where. Flowing eleeves are permitted with both long and short coats, but in the last in- stance they are made rather small. Even the long coats keep the flow of open sleeves within reasonable bounds. As to the neck finish, all wraps of any modish pretension are there low and flatly treated. Msay of the necks are even cut down in & modest V., Mmp collars of a dozen sorts falling —sEmEe— = N THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN. | the upper line of the lace shoulder frill. | showed a shoulder frill of the same, drop- | and bodice of this was all in bias folds | THR OMAHA DAILY BEE UNDAY, over the shoulders. At the bust soft, wide eravats are tled. MARY DEAN. MONEY IN THE POCKET. Knowing How to Spend One of the Ex- cellent Talents. There may be greater virtues in the pos- session of the married woman, but there are few greater and more excellent talents than that of knowing how to spend money, {mot to waste it, but to spend 1t and\be no- quainted with its management. The wife of one of our forelgn ambas |sadors, whose husband was about to leave {ber on a long journey, was given a check | | book, which unfortunately and unwise'y she | | had neved had before, with & sum of money in the bank. On her husband's return he asked her if she bad had money enough. “Oh, yes,” she replied. “And, indeed I have half & dozen checks left;” her idea being that each check stood for as much money as she chose to Indicate upon it, without | reterence to any specific deposit or anything apparently but the capacity of the vaults |of the bank; while the bank officlals, who had had her husband's greatly larger ac- | count, had suffered her to draw what she pleased. This little woman was no more unac- quainted with business processes than an- other, who, n seeing that when her hus- band wanted money, he drew a check, liberately signed his name to a check—ho being absent, and it being necessary to moet the subscription to a charity—and when other people were In no end of a scrape in consequence, she at once declared that | she had done it as she and her husband had always had thelr purse in common. A very Nttle instruction would have prevented any | such exhibition. Knowing these instances to be facts, it 1s hardly necessary to emphasize the state- ment that every girl should be taught the use of & check book, even If she has only a singe dollar in the bank. Where a woman can and does have funds to draw upon, it is inexcusable that so sim- ple a matter should be neglected, although it probably is neglected just because it s €0 simple. Still, one cannot help wonder- ing how a man, who is going to leave his daughter or his wife many thousands, does not have her fitted to take care of it by Instruction in the first principles of bank: ing, in primitive bookkeeping, and in thi SEPTEMBER 7, 1902. HOUSE COLLARS ARE BEWITCHINGLY FEMININB. life did not suit her energetic mind, what- ever her body had to say about it. This woman express manager inherited the businese from her husband. He had made some money. At least she might have sold her horses and wagons and lived the life of a sofa invalld. But she knew something about her husband’s affairs and felt that she could run the businesa quite as well as it 'had been run in the pi Instead of selling ehe bought. Her m: agement was strict and she watched details carefully. Her first thought was merely that she could keep the business at the same level as before, but she soon proved Herself a better manager than her husband. Her patronage increased and steadily her staft of workers Increased. Her wagons rumble through the street and are known of all men, but few suspect that the sur- drawing of wills and thelr codlcils. “Is that my husband’'s will?” sald & newly made name painted across their great sides be- longs to a frall little woman, who as to the jump may Involve a wrong “take off;" the delay of a second in starting from the mark in a race means falling behind the other rumors. The schoolgirl who gains even so much regard for accuracy as this has scored a tremendous advantage over women in general. Frills of Fasl Exquisite hous: owns are made of flowered liberty Fatini The brims of the latest models in togies turn up straight all around. Velvet strappings are to be used on some of the less re tallor costumes. Buttons of all kinds are used garni- ture, particularly tiny gilt or silver but- tons. For volle and similar materials entre- geux of coarse net Is used with artistic et- Tassels continue in favor, and may be of gold, passementerie or the material of the gown. White soutache braid blended with black CAPE-COLLAR EFFECT FOR STREET WEAR. widow to the lawyer sitting beside her and reading the document. “I can’t think he ‘would make such a will as that! Let me look at it!"” And, taking it, she glanced it over, and tossed It into the fire, all un- aware that she had committed a felony. But whether or not one knows the details of the methods of getting money into the right hands, it is an important part of a wife’s virtues to know how to spend the money when once hers. Many a woman buys what she wants, if she has the means to do 80, without a thought if it be best or if she could do without it, or if she could get it at a better price elsewhere. But really, the more openbanded a husband is, the more it i1s the wife's duty to think twice when spending. For putting aside any question of her equities in the husband’s income, the fact remains that it is usually in his power, and is under the province of that law which declares that might makes right; and if he is openhanded that circumstance gives her & double obligation to spend it reasonably and wisely. 1t 1s not a consideration of economy that is involved, of sparing, of unselfishness, of doing without that another may have; it is the exercise of a suficient degree of care in expenditure and of seeing that nothing be wasted. And undoubtedly where this case becomes a habit, other habits of nice in- spection follow 1n its wake; and in the hour of the wise and careful purchaser, where the value of a dollar is known, but not prized above its value, for all that, there is noth- ing left at loose ends; the meats are used up, the fruits are not left to spoll; moth and rust do not corrupt. And the servants here, who see & trust thus administered, are quite perpared, when they have a home of their own to make the most of their own proper- ties, and to practice on the small scale that leads to larger, the sort of housekeeping in ‘whose lexicon there is no such word as “waste.” HARRIETT P. SPOFFORD. ODD OCCUPATIONS FOR WOMEN, an Inval Pro This is what one little woman, a sickly one at that, accomplished in an occupa- tion which was certainly an odd one for a woman, to undertake. She runs an express business and rume it uncommonly well. esses and could do %0 equally , but this particular pro- prietor of horses and wagons manages her affaire largely from her sick bed. Here is a curious case, indeed. So situated few ‘women would bave had courage enough to attempt more than the management of thelr medicine bottles, bul that sort of the very moment. Women are energetic and can attend to detall, but it is rare that one possesses the | eral seasons past. executive ability necessary to run a great business without being actually on the spot continually. Of course, this woman expressman has good subordinates, but it fs not with her a case of someone else doing the work while she remains & pic- turesque head. She knows well exactly what goes on in her stables. Besides Il health this woman has had to contend with organigations far larger than her own—with the great express com- panies of the country, four or five of which send wagons Into her territory, and even the street car company, which operates a trolley express almost past her door. Ouly scute management could enable her not only to hold her own, but to prosper in the face of this rivalry. She does mot expect ever to run an express busines large as those of some of her rivals, but so long as there is a comfortable annual in- crease in the amount of business done and the number of dollars on the falr side of she 15 content to re- main prosperously loéal. Her success, be it added as a last word, has not had any especially luck as an im- portant factor. She has found herself “‘up inst” misfortune more than once. A fire, an accident to her horses and other calamities have fallen to her share and made fnroads on her profits. She is so far from being a favorite of fortune that she might have posed as a ‘“‘poor this 1t she hadn't made up her mind that she was golng to be “master of her fate” and, in- cldentally, of a good-paying business. THE GIRL IN ATHLETICS, How She Lea [ and Accuraey in Small Things. The girl who goes into athletics with the haziest {dea as to figure to anything, says s writer in Outing, Is brought up with & round turn if she in- dulges in her propensity to get statements mixed. When an fuch or two, or even a fraction of an inch, makes or breaks a record 4n the breadth or helight of & jump, feet and inches take on an entirely fresh and large importance. She had not thought before that & little variation made such difference; but when she finds that the difference spells victory or defeat in tha coatest for which she and her companions have been training she looks at & measur- ing tape with & mew respect. She learns to know fn & practical way what inaccuracy may mean in the way of |Nkely as not is in the doctor's hands at :nlkcl an effective trimming for fall cos- in thelr relation |than was coming to them. fatlure. Carelessness about the point where she begins upon the run that leads women. i For dressy wear smooth cloth will be a leader next season, as it has been for sev- ‘The new designs in hair ornaments ere chll’mln’ Mtlcclbl thm of the light tor- foise shell Inlaid with god. n some of the new boas, the majo which are short and cape-like in effect, molre ribbon is used for ends. Taffeta and velvet ribbons are employed for a like pur- se. Braided silk and cloth coats are to be worn this autumn and tailors are making their frieze and homespun coats three- au;rm- length, double-breasted and tight- Yoo traveling or yachting felt hats are much worn, Fearl gray is & tavorite shads and many blac] s ane also in evidenc: Brigtiienca by the souch ot Sowr. prelossbls introduced by the quill or ng. A lovely afternoon gown is made of pale grsam volls, ambroldered with red Orisntal needlework 'alternating with bands of red taffeta. and ‘outlined with frilie ot fnely leated net. The scarf on t aseels of Fed and white balls and e ol lar turns down at the neck. At @ recent fashionable wedding in Eng- land the bridesmaids wore gowns of white glace silk draped with silver embroidered net and wreaths of jessamine _encircled their tulle vells. At ‘another fashionable bridal the litte maids who carried the bride’s traln wore Greenaway frocks of white gauze and long coats of point d'esprit fastened in front with clusters of pink On thelr curly heads rested wreaths of oak leaves and acorns. For and About Wom. Miss, Martha A Morsy has ust retired after fort. years' service as principal 0f the Forbes school in Gloucester, Mass. Miss Bthel Smyth, composer of the re- gently produced opera, “Der Wald," is firat composes of her sex fo have a work Produced at Govent Garden Princess Theresa of Bavaria elected by the Muich Geopraphical sociaty an honorary member for her achievements in, the line of exploration and travel. Miss Mary Brennan and other' woaen Bave oceanised sn ol Taise’ 5 10 offses the infiience of the Old Bachelars club. "It Migs Mary and her protty asso. clates will simply up and Ty ‘the oid bachelors the latter would get no more One hundred and fifty-one young lawye: were admitted in Boston recently to_pr tice in the Buffolk county courts. On them ls & lady, Miss Edith Ha uate of the Boston University Bhe Intends, it is 8ald. to engage in the ac- tive work of the profession. Miss Elizabeth Sllsby Archer, who died in Salem, Mass., last week aged nearly 10l years, witnessed the naval fight between the Chesapeake and Shannon off Balem Guring the war of 1812 She was born in Salem December 5, 1801, and old at the time of the fight Chesapeake and Shannon The late Mrs. Katherine Barron Aultman of Canton, O., & near nelghbor of Mrs. Wil- fam McKinley, bequeathed by her will 000 of her estat ritable 4nd venévelent pur ues. 100,000 to the Aultman hospital in Anton aid $100,000 for the eatablisnment |nl i same towu of & home for aged, indigent Many “dark days” from “Dark Days” kidney ills. Backache, headache, nervous, tired, Urinary troubles—makes you gloomy. The aches of kidney ills depress, discourage; No rest at night. Hard to “keep up and doing.” Doan’s Kidney Pills Brighten every household where they're known, Bring relief to aching backs, Bring cure to sick kidneys, Omaha people testify to this. Mr. E. G. Glenn, school teacher of No. 624 North 20th street, sayst “I procured Doan's Kidney Pills at Kuhn & Co.'s drug stores, cor- ner of 16th and Douglas streets, for my wife. trom attacks of kidney complaints for years. aching severely and although she us She suffered terribly At the time her back many preparations said to be sure cures for kidney complaint, the benefits recelved from Doan's Kidney Pills were so pronounced that we have no hesitation in indorsing the representations made for them." At All Drug Stores, 80 cents, Foster-Milburn Co., Buffalo, N. Y. #QEEGGEGEEEEEGGEGEGGE(-(-E(> y Cramer’s The first name which CURE OR MONEY extra charge. ALL NIGHT. a’ and Liver Cure find out they have kidney trouble. its kind which is ABSOLUTELY GUARANTEED TO BACK. We are WESTERN AGENTS for this great medi- cine and have only genuine, fresh stock on hand. $1.00 SIZE 60 CENTS. All goods delivered, day or night, in Omaha without Telephone in your drug wants. Schaefer’s 16th and Chicago Streets, Omaha, Neb. MBI I3 Kidney occurs to anyone when they The only remedy of OPEN Cut Price Drug Store '*a All the Parts The Living Animals of the World NOW READY Complete in Twenty-Four Parts At The Bee Office Price 10c each—By mail 15¢ SCHOOLS. BROWNELL HALL. A_well equipped school for girls. Graduates of Va the Women's college of Baltimore, the Unive ity of Chicago, included in the corps of Instructors for ges taught by women of extended rel!dencq under the ln.lrucunn of the best masters. Gives ,ood eneral ‘education and Pr Principalls cért] modern langu res for any college o ecial attention to the of 0c‘l)ll responaibilit n to wom:n, ar college, Radcllff coliege, ehnl \d nd the University yslc, art“and the “in European H of ficate admits to college, levelopment of Indlvlduxllly -nd also the development of uroughness i ted upon essentlal to charac- T Sport nd a large, new suan, ‘mnasium oqul, with h training i1y under the ‘Sirectioh ot o roessionl Terms moderate. Send for catalogue. Address Miis SGIIBDL BILLS REDUCED S .:n"‘?-:?nrn.. o &'fl".... of merican Educational Com 18 Donrbora 8t.. n-u-. lIl. lowa cfllm. Grinnell, lowa DAN F. BRADLEY, President. B6th Year O September :"'e‘n hirty-five; wel MUSEUM; of thirty thousand volumes; Women's GYMNA! 8 FIELD. JOWA COLLEX H MURIC; apeclal course T Organ ang Chucsh Music. COLLEGE ACADEM Drepares forany collese. For information address, J. H. T. MAIN, Dean of the Faculty. lm—“cmlem-n.n " Kearney, Neb.—| Grammar G Chittenden w! in "sehool for to be lmown N SCHOOL,”" Sept. 23 d under 1 For turther ln(ormnl on address Chittenden Hall, Kearney, Neb. 02 open his new board- The Froshel School 267 Farnam Street. Reopens SEPTEMBER 15, 1902, Kindergarten (limited) ~ Primary X Tel. ¥ 3. HARll ET HELLER, Prin, NEW PUBLICATION A SKIN OF BEAUTY IS A JOY FOREVER Dl T. FELIX GOURAUD'S ORIENTAL REAM, OR MAGICAL BEAUTIFIER, Removes Tan, Plmples, Freckles, Moth Faiebes, Rash and Skin dis- C“A*m' I ncom- kin pre, smuou" l‘w aend HOURALD'S rmtul of all the B HOPRING, Frop's, R Great Jonge BL. N, X, and & ol he Yeshiow Fancy Goods Lake Forest College REV. RICHARD D. HARLAN, M. A. President. -ol( b-ullul lulufitmju on lun nmm.mnn' i RP"“ llhloua fllllll. Box 60. LAKE FOREST, ILL. "CURED BY WNITE RIBBON YW hite “Ribbon Remedy win stroy the diseased o stimulants, whether ‘the. patiens "‘°°h°"° frmed luhrl t - * e ai er a ‘'t pler. Mlvo an -Fpeuuh:: nlcohcllo Ilnlwrl after White Ribboy [ ¢ drunkards, and the cupes Buve’ cratly: T checrtully recnmmer White Ribbon Rem: = edy. Meml ‘l;nlmn delighted 0 And an economica) nt to ald us In our temperance ggists or by matl, g1 m. b' writing L TD'W%: Rl et T SOHAEF!R'Q SRS e .’hflll. 1&'1 8 W Goods r& m