Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, August 10, 1902, Page 14

SOHOOL GOWNS FOR ALL AGES. Sweet Sixteen s the Tmportant Factor in Augnst Dressmaking. NEW YORK, Aug. S.—~Autumn is the wonth when the mother of daughters be- tins to brood over the serious problem of wutamn school clothes. Whatever age she s, mimma wants missy to look her best; svery sensible mother realizes that an un- becoming or inadequate wardrobe is the tause of much youthful suffering. Bspecially Is this the case with girls removed from Ihe resourceful infirences of home, maid- s pursuing their studies in diatant schools wid ocolleges, where the steady need to wppear well, not to speak of dress rivairies, Incessantly spurs the virgia mind to Ihoughts of clothes. As to the number of gowns required by the Yoarding school girl, it apparently ali de- pends upon the pretentions of the house » learning. At many places the dressing Is much too fine, too often changed and too suggestive in general of the frivolities of the grownups. But, happily, an effort is being made to change this, and following the lead of {he senaible French, the direct. several New York boarding a prestige now Uimit the school wardrobe. Two golng-out gowns are allowed, but they need not nec- essarily be biack, as the French usually fosist. Then four frocks for lessons, two evening tollettes and elght of every article of underwear. Hats are supposed to pumber three and ®o suitably simple In style, but there are no, restrictions on lesser accessories, which may bo as numerous and as elegant as the peuslon can afford Two “cla prons” are required by one Fifth avenue school. These must be black, the materials alpaca or silk and the wpron long enough to cover the entire front of the gown. The prettiest of the class aprons are gored and finished at the iucks. . Red Russian embroideries coarse lace insertions (black torchon pre- ferably) deck some of the silk ones, and the girl fond of sashes has her apron strings sufficlently long and. wide to tle in & big bow at the back. Tn such little ways may much coquetry be achleved and ® trylng emblem turned into an adorn- ‘ment.. ‘There have been few changes from the past seasom in fashions for school girls. The gowns now being made ali *how the influence of summer models, skirts run- aing to the side pleats found eo gragetul and becoming, with blouse bodices, sport- ing fancy sleeves and ornamental yokes, for the upper garment, 'Material for Froeks. Ia the way of material, @rst wear are of lighter weight stuffs than those for later use. ¥For long-skirt mald- ens the daintlest little dresses are ween in figured chatiies, trimmed with bands of plain color. These are delightful to wear, delicate stuffs contributing little and defying wrinkles. In . color effects the new challies surpass anything seen before, some of the Persian tern introducing many tints, and are of rimming, which en- circles the jupe at wsual flounce quar- . The blouse bodice, which fastens at the back, begins with a tucked yoke in plain blue, the upper portion of. sleeves the same. Below this is the spotted chal- lie, more bands forming a bust and shoul- der trimming and shaping an odd girdle effect just above the belt. This and the stock are of bright parrot green ribbon, the hat which will accompany this effective rig carrylng out the same blue and green scheme. It is of white felt braid in one of the summer's very flat crownless shapes. two blus and green parrot ‘wings, laid fiat at the top, with a soft bow of green panne between; an inch-wide blas i1 s 3 i ‘ : d [ 4 i i i i i E ; H !E!: i ol 1 erials, and taffets and plain end = fancy alds. Black will remain a fre- L for color, and on frocks in rrow watered ribbons will be ped rows. Bands of watered é : £ ] o i The ready-made street sults for girls above 14 are all bullt on the lines of maturer There the same Bton coats and skirts with shaped :.. mflmfid-um.' same vests, with o & shorten- ing of skirts and a modifical of trim~ ming to prove the costume for the younger A loose, shart Jacket, with an odd, satlor i g £ RO 3 5. & st - b e . THE OMAHA DAILY BEE: SUNDAY, AUGUST 10, 1902, collar, finishing at the front with stole ends, seems to have a youthful quality, and the wide flouncing sleeves of this are con- sidered very wofllsh. A newer meodel in short comts, for thess loose, wide-sleeved Jackets havi been worn all summer, s & od blouse with military neck band. Stitched belts fnish the waista of these, little postillion talls, heavily stitched or trimed with bralds like the rest of the garment, showing at the back. Gilt bralds deck some of the shorter coats, certaln gravity of t feots. However, there are trimmed long coats—trimmed to the top notch, marrow braids outlining wider omes, and fancy bone buttons and velvet collars and cuffs | smartening them up prodigiously. This' tendency even holds good with the but the long ones depend upon a ! tment for good ef- | rain coats, some of which are much too/stained, the coffee thick, the bread heavy, IN THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN. =——————t——— to fall out of practice in her musie never growa old, she never grows unlovely, She in his thought, serrows may come and trouble, and years will pass, but she fs to be always the beautifully developlog flower of the girl he loves. What_would he say to himself, then, if he could look Into futurity with anmy presclence and see her at the breakfast table, in her slatternly morning gowp and with her hair twisted up carelessly, while she could write her autograph in. the dust-on every plain eurface In the house and two of them on the plano, which she has long since ceased to open? What, when bhe wees the breakfast table itself with solled cloth awry, dishes cracked and nicked, napkins forgotten to be changed, salt cellars just as they were last dipped into, silverware dull, knives | artillery, to the reigning fad, snd the sum- | mer hotels present the interesting spectacle of eager groups of daintily dressed women buslly at work over rafia and rattain, fash- | lontng mome pretty and graceful basket. The work fs not dificult, though sometimes | triflo hard on the hands, but the results are altogether so delightful that all minor discomforts are countenanced for the sake | of the finished article. There is In New York state a woman to- | tally blind who has become an adept in the |art of basket weaving. She has produced | some ‘beautitul specimes of the art, the | fastgoning of which has brought an enjoy- ment rarely felt by those blessed with sight. Owing to the unusually keen sense of touch of a blind person the baskets, in point of workmanship and design, surpass the majority of those made by people Who | are able to watch the work as ft progresses | The idea has already appealed to the direc tors of institutions for the blind, and it is expected basketry will be included in the cpurse of study. One of the happiest results accrulng from basket weaving is shown fn its_adapta- bility to the needs of institutions for way- ward girls. It has proven a godsend in many cases, helping to develop the girls mentally and bringing as well a keen bit GOWNS FOR THE SHORT SKIRT SCHOOL GIRL. flae for their calling. A so-called rain coat seemed almost insolently fixy, with the advantage that it could shine glor- fously on dry occasions. Waterproof werge, in a deep, pleasing blue, Was the material of this. A double-breasted front hung loose from the figure; the sides and back of the coat were fitted with shallow stitched pleats, held down by a belt. Then & triple cape collar with much narrow black braid, and fancy slgeves with under » 4l aton isised e yulfs, alss bratdsd with dull silver rima. In the way of little elegancies never was the school girl more fortunate tham now. Ali of the department shops are con- sidering her needs, and from the crown of her head to the soles of her feet she may be admirably fitted out at these places. Her mew French handkerchiefs are ex- quisite—little squares of delicately tinted mull, with very narrow hems, and her monogram, a butterfly, or a daisy, worked in one corner. Pretty boxes to hold these and other trifies are made of cardboard, covered with flowered silks and delicately scented. | As a trimming for house jackets, wrap- pers, etc., swansdown Is a sweetly ‘youthful ornamentation seen at some of the shops. Edging the netk and wide sleeves of saut- de-Hits (Jump-out-of-thé-bed gowns) it is charming on the psle woolly flanmels of the same name. Bedroom slippers are algo bordered with swansdown, the mater- {al of the slippers matching the gown. A word on hats, though the subject is belated. The new headgear for feminine Juvenility is discreet or. exu gant, ac- cording to the age of the wearer. For sxample, girls under 12 may wear the most elaborate hats, huge things burdened with feathers, spreading bows and vast ornaments, Above that age headgear be- gins to modify its splendors, until it has a maiden simplicity trim. ~Maoy Tam o' Shanter shapes con- tinue to be seen, with the meat ribbon rosettes and long quills worn this long while. Other good schoal hats for misses In the teens are cértain wide brim satlors n h delt. Wide ribbons, tylng in a moderate 'bow at the fromt, or tartan scarfs, knotted at the side, trim these pretiily. MARY DEAN. THE SLOVENLY WOMAN. Slowchy Gowns and Ourl Papers Shatter & Man's Ieal. Bvery man, when he marries, be he ever Indulges himeelf {n some Fe B il AR e o ot R A K S B el At S Sl e i S S about fn & stormy world the struggle, so to say, and turmoil and when he opens his fancy It s te go lato the There 18 5o disorder anywhere in her reglon, no lond or sharp tome marks the sflver of Ber voloe, all the wheels of her house- keoplng move nolsslessly and smoothly, all 2.';: &l her paths low | basket, Rew song. the steak burned and nothing hot or in- viting? It may be bis own fault to some extenmt that the plano is unopened, but it is ot his fault that her hair is undressed. for in sheer self-respect she should have found the instant to arrange a neat toflette and to enatch some dainty neckgear from that upper drawer of hers, which is usually in no more confusion than her mind, and it is not his fanlt that the food he unfit to eat it in. Is there not ,a kind of dishonesty in such stewardship of the goods entrusted to her? Is there mot a trait of dishomor fn the appearance of this nntidy and un- lovely creature in the place of the charmer who once charmed him so wisely? There are countries inhabited by bar- barians and by the sewi-eiyilized where such conduct as that of this Indolent woman would give her husband the right to put her away forever. Here it acts In a ly opposite way, as it has the power to send him away to' scemes that are More to his mind. And the woman who then finds herself in a neglected home has no one to thank for it but herselt. There is an old Scotch song that portrays the joy a wife feels in the return of her husband from a long {liness: “Oh, hand me down my biggonet, My op's satin gown,’ she cris; and also that the whole house shall be festal, “Gie little Kate her cotton And Jock his Sunday shoon,” and the poor fish wife of the blithe song knew more of the effect of what' the boys call “glad rags” than the slovenly wife ever thinks best to put in practice, for as nothing but death excuses one from & din- ner engagement, nothing but sickness unto death excuses a womar from breaking her engagement to make, herself and her house pleasant and attractive to her husband. gown, ANOTHER SOCIETY FAD, Basket Weaving Takem Up as = Means of Relaxation. The latest fad of the soclety woman of today is the weaving of baskets from slen- de willow withes, much as the Indian muaids and matrons are accustomed to busy themselves. The work is partiqularly fas- cinating, ‘and every class of soclety is rep- resented among the devotees of the art. Pratt institute, the Teachers’ college and o large majority of the noted institutions of learning of the country, as well as the pub- He schools have introduced the art within the last three years. The summer schools for teachers Include courses In basket-mak- ing, and two years ago the experiment of placing the art in the summer and vaca- tion schoole for the poor in New York and other large cities was tried with splendid results. Soclety has gone over, foot, horse and of pleasure Into their forlorn and unfortu- nate lives. In one institution the product of the season's work was sold and the proceeds turi over to the bullding fund in the shape of a substantial sum. The cost of the material is a matter of small importance, the coloring being by far the most expensive and difficult part of the work, although as the industry pro- g s the colored rafia will be easily Wool dyes are used, as they _____ and whila an fmprevemant the aniline, are not nearly so beautiful as the natural dves of the native armen- tarinm. The native plgment is duller and does nmot run through such diverse and brilliant gamut ae the white man's, but the Indian dyes are permaneut and so softemedl BLUE SERGE RAIN COAT. by the touch of time that they become rich and mellow and gain tints that it is impossible to imitate, % To dye the material is not a diffcult matter, but takes time and patience. The raw weeds are made into bunches and dipped into the prepared color. The firet consignment should be left long enough to obtain the darkest shade, the rest for a shorter and stfll shorter period until the graduations of color are obtalned. Terra Cotta, dark reds and browns are the golors mainly employed. MRS. WU WILL BE MISSED, Chinese Minister's Wife & Ploturesque Figure in Washington Life, The ‘wife of Wu Ting Fang will be greatly missed in Washington when she returns to China in consequence of her husband’'s re- oall. Many Orfefital women have resided there who are pleasantly remembered, re- ports the New York Sun, but mone of her sisters from the oast has succeeded in mak- ing o much of an Impression on society as Mrs, Wu. Small of figure, with the flat npse, broad cheeks and thin 1ips of the Mongollan, Mrs. Wu has luminous brown eyes that would grace any face. Her expression denotes decision and character. Since her husband was accredited here in May, 1807, she has been a central figure in official life. She 1s, Indeed, quite as remarkable M her way as her husband and is creditod with having ability and force of character not generally assoclated with women of her race. Mrs. Wu comes from onie of the most anclent families in Chiba and Is of pure Chinese blood, her origin rank being indicated by, her costume. The gorgeous engle embroidered upon her breast is one of the most important features about her dress, as it indicates that she is of equal rank with her husbind and privileged to enter and leave the room at his side, rather than behind him, as would be the case were she of lower caste. : The beads around her neck have also an especial eigrificance and are worn by dboth women and men of the celestial kingdom to show their station. These necklaces vary with the seasons, jade and coral being adapted for winter, sandal wood for sum- mer wear. Mrs. Wu's feet are tluy, as befits her rank, and clad in the marvelous little shoes which are rarely seen in this part of the world eave in the casps of thé musenm, Bhe dresses handsomely, In keeping with her station and wealth, for she 18 rich in her own right and brought her husband a generous share of this world's goods. Her clothes are made in the legation by & Chinese tallor, who is & member of the minister's suite, and are of magnificent sllk, richly ‘embroidered. Her dresses are all fashioned from the samie model, with scant skirt over tunic and jacket after & style set by royal decrse. The heavy black halr that crowhs ~her head is dressed mccording to the Canton mocde and her headdress consists of & single band of black velvet adorned with a handsome jewel, which 15 worn in the house as well as out of doors. Mrs. Wu Has been an Industrious stu- dent of English since she first came to this country, five years ago, and understands it well, though she rarely attempts to con- verse in any language save her own, de- pending upon her husband to translal since she did away with the custom adopted by her predecessor, Mrs. Yang, of having sn attache of the legation attend her as an interpreter. Mr. Sze, who has since been graduated from Cornell and has already made his Mark in the diplomatic rvice of his country, filled this office for Mrs. Yang and accompanied her every- where, to dinners, luncheons, balls, recep- tions and visiting, and by his tact, grace and suavity made many friends in the official ciroles. Mra. Wu's little feet preclude her from walking and her daily exercise is taken in an invalid’s chair, which is pushed by one of the servants belonging to the legation, or in an automobile, when the minister himself, who s devoted to the sport, and has become an Adept, acts as chauffeur. e s o has A iz Asna ISR G M e it MNP B SG4TSR RN T it . e A B Sy e 8- bwtiblocls e & k. AL b account of his recall, and in the hot evenings with Mrs. Wu and their son seeks an ‘asylum in Dupont eir- cle, which Is within'easy walk of the lega- for Atlantic City on tlon. There, seated in democratic style upon a bench, they watch the people stroll- ing by and the pairs of lovers who seek secluded nooks in which to carry on their courting. : The pérsonnel of the Chinese legation is larger than that of any other legation or embassy In town, not excepting. Great Britain, and numbers some fifty persons, in. cluding besides the gecretaries and at- taches a doctor, tailor, shoemaker, cooks, barbers, valets, and last, but not least, the ubiquitous laundryman. Mrs. Wu has the direction of this large household and is sald to be & modei Lovaekeeper. of Fashi in the Italian mosale. Elbow sleeves are pushing bracelets to the fore. The revival of satin dresses amounts to one of the season's novelties. Diaphanous white serges are favorite frocks at the summer resorts. A pretty little bonnet s of shirred black tulle, trimmed with two clusters of violets. A charming affair of flowered chiffon and ruchin is known as the Dolly Varden parasol. Plaid straw {8 a prominent note in the millinery chorus. Ten, slate, nayy and black are colors m;ut approved in the pongee traveling Wraps, The elbow sieeve-will be seen upon el ornu&m this winter and wonien mus! recon themselves to gloves. \Oltrll:h lumes will of the win| grace and fine white cravats -I-WWun the correct thing. o S e 2 Bk wo oval a amethyst. Ith the Sauste Somered buckle for the Back belt, set with small amethysts, Initial shoe buckles—they cam be worn for belt buckles if one likes—come in th un metal’ with the oval of the metal -J e initlal cut out and into the oval of sllver or like the body of the buckle, All sorts of pretty designs are to be found for the bead bags which are 80 popular. ‘The work will not be wasted if the grand- 1 of the prese g 2 & Y not keep this remedy in pour home instead waiting until sonte one of your family is sick nigh unto decth and then sendingr it in a great hurry, and perhaps in the night, while the patient must suffer antil it can be obtained. BUY IT NOW. NPT ALL ABOARD for Wind Cave' Jolly good times. b Healthful rides over the pine-clad hills. Through sleeper daily between Omaha and Hot Springs, 3. . Round trip passenger fare {$14.50 GHICAGO MUSIGAL COLLEGE Established 1867. Dr. F. Ziegfold, Pres. College Building, 202 Michigan Bivd., Chicago, iil. mllvfon and most complete Oollege of Music and Dramatio Art in The Chl l';‘e Bull Americs. 0 Musical Col 18 the finest structure in existence devoted exclu- sively to an nstitution of s kind. ©_gystem f instruction and arrangement of ‘courses represent the result years' rience. The faculty is the strongest ever any college of musical learning and numbers fifty-five members. School of Acting, BOARD OF MUSIOAL DINECTORS: Sohool of Opera, ELOCUTION, Modern Languages. Dr. F. Ziegfeld Dr. Louis Falk Hans Von Schiller William Castie Berohard Listemann 8. E. Jacobsohn Rudolph Ganz Herman Devries v *Edmond Vergnet Felix ki Hart Conway, Director School df Acting. + EDMOND VERGNET the Saens’ Samson and Delllah Rl who ereated the leading tenor roles in A B R BROWNELL HALL. jpped school for girls, Graduates of Vassar college, Radeift coll lhlA\\g;llltn“‘eoH'““ol Bl'(ll’ffil’!, the University of Nebraska, and the Unlv.m of Chicako, included in the corps ‘of instructors ' for 19038, , et Modern lafguages taught by women of exiended residence In Buropean capltuls under the instruction of the best masters. Gives good, general education and pre« ares for anmy college open to wom:n. Principal's certificate admits to college. Epec]ll attention to the development of individuality and also the development of a sense of social responsibility. Thuroughness insisted upon as essential ‘:‘X.‘:?lci ess Miss - orts and A large, new sunny gymnasium = squip) “.'..2?.';':““‘.;.3‘:.‘..‘."‘"5..‘,”.}“'. tralning daily under the direction of a professional instructor, Havpy home iife. Terms moderate, Send for ca Macrae, Priucipal, Omaha. o b 'DVORAK AMATIC SCHOOL EDWARD DVORAK, Direotor. Kimball Hall, 243 Wabash-av. ACTING ELOCUTION TERM BEGINS SEPT. 8 BALE T taiog Mailed Fres. DAN F. BRADLEY, President. 56th Year Opens September 17th, 148 FACULTY of thirtyciver well app LABORATORIES: MUSEUM: LIf of thirty thousand volumes; Men's Wi GYMNASIUMS; FIE MUBIC; special course in Organ and U Music. TIOWA. €O B ACADEM' preperes for any coliege, For information address, J. H. T. MAIN, Dean of the Faculty. 1901—“Chittendenilall,” Kearncy, Neb.—1902 tenden will open his new board- PRy fol'éfll'. to be known as “MAN. BTN SCHGOE " aept. 3. Hoys received under 14, For further information address Chittenden Hall, Kearney, Neb. REDUCED A SKIN OF BEAUTY IS A JOYFOREVER R. 7. FELIX GOURAUD'S ORIENTAL CREAM, OR MAGICAL BEAUTIFIER. Removes Tan, Fimpies, st Sekoe i ik Bayre sald to & ia ou Nave lost your narve lrwa Collage, Griell, lowa 0inted RAR " ATHCET 1WA COLLEGE 88} 2‘; SCHOCL BILLS & ace faa 1t mesiory, Wfe's pleasures waning, if have Insom: fo's p) 708 have insorinia, lest