Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, July 20, 1902, Page 12

P e e " THE OMAHA DAILY BEE: SUNDAY, = 0 IN THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN. MALF-HOLIDAY GOWNS. How to Be Up to Date Yet Not Ov reased. NEW YORK, July 15.—8o quntfi( are the fashions nowadays that bread-earning women complain of the impossibility of Gnding effects which combine ‘smartness with good taste. For the Saturday after- noon jaunt, not having time for a change ot costume, they put on in the morning gowns which the pleasuring in prospect, but which are entirely unsuited to the requirements of business life. Then, aside from the an- noying Attention which these too fixy tollettes involve, they are often in tex- tiles and colors which wiil not stand th wear and tear of half-boliday needs. Be fore the day is over they have taken on a wilted air, crisp ribbon bows are crumpled, thin laces tor 12, so to speak, the fine young woman of the morning returns to her abode Hke Cin- derella of the fairy tale. n this especial quarter, one of New York's most enterprising merchants is just vow offering for sale a vast number of e all right in themselves for | | laces will give them & very fetching alr. | The fullness is required by the fact th: the imitation linens have but little body, and In the scant shapes the skirts slink unbecomingly. The flounch: should all be ecut on the straight and heavily tucked. Another good material for practical sum- | mer underskirts is brown or black pongee. Cool as cool these are, washing llke han kerchlefs, and emerging from the tub as | good as new. Dashing and 8 Three half-holiday frocks of uncommon dash are among those shown. The simplest |and yet most stunning of the lot might be |worn ‘by & young woman who wants to | play st Maud Muller, for incredible as it | seem her finery might even go h | making and not be greatly damaged. Sage green and tan chambrays form the basis of her splendors—both warranted wash tints o this material. The model of the gown s especially charming. It is also the most novel thing ceen this season, and what is better still |1t is one of a small family. Only two other frocks were seen in the same design, | and they were in different colors. The gown proper & made of the tan SEASHORE WOOL GOWNS. simple yot effective costumes. They go under the alluring head of ‘“‘half-holiday suits,” and though many of the models are still a deal too elaborate for the purpo for which they are intended, a careful search will result in finding the right thing. For seashore jaunting all the gowns were in wool and in colors which the salt air would not be likely to affect. On the other band, country frocks were in wash ma- terials, linens, ducks, ginghams, cheviots and piq with a gratitylng absence of white everywhere. “White solls too easlly,” sald the oblig- 1ng a hsible saleswoman. And, ag auto- erat of the occasion, I will add that a white £9Wn of any sort is distinotly bad taste in & business office. Black is always effective, and soft, quiet tints, if properly made up, more stylish than any of the conspicuous effects which now enrapture the unsophisti- cated. y Made Frocks. ‘With this amiable sermon let us proceed to the we. suggestions of some of the most desirable of these ready-made frocks. In a frio of tallor-finished gowns one s in ©ld blue linen—one of those dim, soft blues— with - the bodice and ekirt in fine tuck These portions of the sult, to accommodate the tucking, are in a light weight linen, the ‘©oarse, loosely woven sort. The band trim- ming, which Is stitched with black, and the flounoe section of the jupe is in a closer and Beavier weave. Cut in V-shaped pleces this forms a stylish shoulder and hip yoke, with straight blases capping the eleeves. Wid polated banda outline the skirt flounce and & shaped belt of black patent leather neatly girdles the walst. The entire costume is unlined. Brown butcher's linen, the heaviest used for costumes, realizes the second tollette, | ;whieh displays a bodice trimming of black | snd brown embrotdery. The lower portion w©f the bodice of thi pleats, with a tucked round, the jupe flounce and yoke and sleeves of the suit betng of the plain linen. A neck ruffie of black silk | o musiin is an effective detatl with this cos- tume, which is also without lining Mercerized linen, in a dull, artistic green, 18 the texture of the third dress. The blouse bodice of this is entirely and the upper part of the skirt are bust decoration of diamond- shaped pleces, held down by small black bone buttons. The sides and back of the ekirt are box pleated; the apron gore Iy plain, and the scant flounce is headed with & Barrow line of black needlework. The bigh collar band is likewise embroidered In black and tucked at the upper portion the Blabop's sleeves puff into plain wrist bands. Apropos of mercerized linen, which you kaow s & mixture of linen and cotton, the amartest wash petticoats of the hour are being made of it. In the delicate colors this weave has almost the look of sllk, and if the skirts are made suf- elently full, tucking and cheap torchon Baby Mine in up and down box ' . chambray, with the top of the circular skirt fitted at sides and back with fine tucks, The dim soft green forms the trim- ming, which is outlined everywhere with black stitching. On the tucked blouse the contrasting color shapes a stole collar whose stockless finish 1s especially be- coming to round young throats. The pretty elbow sleeves have an inner-arm tucking, which bulges the putside in graceful puffs. Theysare finished With deep flounces, edged with the me scalloped band of green which borders the skirt. Green bone but- fons ornament the bodice, dotting the ecallops of the collar at the chest and bust. The epaulette shaping of this collar over the shoulders is a bewitching feature for slight figures. As to the hat to be worn by. this smart young woman, it should be as simple as The shape might be of sage the bulls eyes and crescents and balls seen are in many colors. Straw ornaments in black or white, however, are most in favor d it is not uncommon to see them com- bined with tulle and spangled nets. Sixty- five cents will buy spiky, prickly half-balls, in deep yellow, which put on a black bat aro convineingly stylish. Sometimes a fat brim will show & number of shallow ones, modest excrescences much admired. Straw buckl: with jet trimmings, are French novelties. Other Stylish Suits. Golng back to the gowns—sapphire blue etamine is the basis of a suit for the sea. shore girl, to be worn, perhaps, with a sallor hat. A bend trimming of string- colored lace—the grayish twine shade—is the stylish trimming, this forming on the bodice a stole-collar edged with a tucked border of the etamine. The front and back of the bodice is tucked and lace bands h the puffed elbow sleeves. The skirt flare is made by the cut, the band of lace and tucks below the kunees only suggesting the prevailing flounce. A Russian blouse costume, also of blue, for a small girl, is shown by the children's outfitters. Navy blue serge and black silk braid are the materials of it. Ope more suggestion for a seasho woman and more for a little miss com- | plete the week's gowns. A band etrapping of unusual effectiveness | distinguishes the grown up costume, & very | effective tollette In dark blue wo Th collar and undersieeves are made of & figured silk in black white and a suit- able detall would be a white silk parasol. For the children white is always good and just now the makers of small fry wear are turning out some very pretty frocks in snowy bustings. Some of these lttle suits lv"yd:.:th:'lr 4;-];.‘: great and danger attendant upon the most critical period of her life. Becomin, & mother should be a source of joy to all, but the sufferi er incident to the ordeal makes its anticipation one of misery and danger of maternity ; :vh-u! trial l’:::ot only mnz =nmm. the is the only remedy which relieves women of the grea this hour which is dreaded as woman't Pcinlel its use, Those who use this remedy are no y; nervousness, nausea and other distressing conditions are system is made ready for the coming event, and the but all the danger is avoided despondent or serlous accidents so common to the critical hour are obviated by the use of Mother's “It is worth its weight in gold, says many who have used it. $1.00 h’t:h at drug stores. Book eonuinr; Friend. Molher’s wvaluable information of interest to all women, w¥ be sent to any address free upon application ty GRADFIELD REQULAYOR 00., Atanta, Ga. are worn with new shapes in sallor hats. For those who prefer even plalner frocks than are here described, a jacket suit of black serge or broadeloth will provide endless peace for the half-holiday jaunt. The shirt waists which muet be worn with these are almost universally becoming and with a change of stock and a gay vell draped about the brim of a sallor hat one may be transformed from the busy bec into quite a butterfly. When you go for your stock ask for the “tauting Groat.” This horsey neckplece, which first worn by the sporting gentry of the English betting ring, is the very latest caper in neckwear. Made in many wash materials, this stock folds over Ascot tashion, with short wide ends. A coronation belt of black walrus leather stylishly accompanies the “tauting Groat.” The fire-gllt buckle of this suggests the erown of Goeat Britain, hence the title. MARY DEAN. FLOWER Of CIVILIZATION, Deference and Politeness Husband and Wife. The man who, after a rude remark to a lady, begged her pardon, saying he had thought It was his wife, was of the kind very apt to be agreeable when outdoors and disagreeable when at home, the man who not only h never profited by the old fable of the sun and the north wind, who has fafled to percelve that courtesy is the flower of civillzation and the es- sence of Christianity, but who has never learned that in tho long run it is a good paylng investment. No man can hope to retam his wite's affection, if she is much of a woman, who constantly offends her sense of propriety and outrages her feel- ings by his rudene: She looks with envy at the woman whose husband listens with the appearance of pleasant Interest when she speaks, sees always that she is well served, taps on her bedroom door befcre he enters, by his own deference obliges that of others; and in the absence of courtesy, and its visible evidence of appreciation, she ends by dethroning the demigod that every woman's husband Is to her in the beginning, holding in his place an ideal with small resemblance to himself the thing she would bave liked for the guardian of her home, always a little saddened by realization of the im- possibility of Its actual existence, and inevitably regarding her husband from a plane of personal superiority. A correspondfng disregard for her best happiness {s shown by the woman who allows herself to treat her husband with disrespect, who breaks in upon his re- marks, directs upon him her ridicule, points out his deficiencies, and complains of Bim to others. That woman's hus- band, after a while, must feel a deadening of sensibllity so far as she is concerned; she may have a partner, she no longer bas a lover. And, meanwhile, she has lowered her own standard; for, after all, it is ber hueband; and if it s not true that as the husband the wife is, never- theless the wife takes her rank from and through him; and if he is so poor a thing, moreover, it is supposedly the most in the way of husbands that she could attain. Man; sald Aristotle, are the lesser morals; and to one who searches there is a moral and a reason behind every princt- ple of their code. The offender against their code is considered a boor because be breaks down that which refines and sweetens life, and nowhere is this code s0 vital as in the intimite relations of the married, where It stands forever in the way of that rough familiarity which breeds contempt. There are individuals who bave the singu- lar notlon that attention to the minute matters of politeness in general is a con- fesslon of inferiority, and that, as between husband and wife, it is a silly superfluity. A man 1s afrald of belng thought uxorious; a wit atrald of seeming afrald; each thinks a certain carelessness, a certain roughness and brusquerie, the desirable method in public, leaving one to infer how much worse the want of courtesy may be in privi Why it should discredit a man to show, #0 far as a sufficiently gentle and differential manner does it, that his wife is of more importance to him than all the rest of the world ls, or why a woman should think her acquaintances would esteem her less on seelng that she looks up to her husband, regards him as the last and greatest work of creation should be regarded—as they, every one of them, elther regard their own or wish they did—will always be a mystery. For, in point of fact, the more either as- @ the other's dignity, gracefully and paturally and as without an effort, the greater the proportions that dignity as- sumes, while, really, each is honored In henoring the other, and each is happler. For the rest, the home where delicate Between 4alLOR FINISHED GOWNS IN ART LINES. manners between husband and wife are neglected is almost always a scene of strife and vulgar bickering with partisan feeling. This child resents the careless and flippant indifference on one side; that child resents tho bullying on the other, and union and Farmony become unknown quantities. But the home where a fine courtesy prevails, where the husband entrates the wife as he would the first lady in the land and com- passes her with sweet observances and sym- pathetic care, where the wife never fails with the gentle ‘word, the ans¥ering smile, ithe foreseeing thoughtfulness, the compell- ing respect, is a home where, if love did not exist beforehand, he would come and make his nest and abide continually. HARRIET P. SPOFFORD. For and About Women. A bronze medallion of Susan B. Anthony 18 to be presented to Rochester university and placed in the woman's room, as a memorial of the service done by her in gpening the university to women. ary 1. Garrett of Baltimore, ha 8100 for the purpose. A tablet to resentcd to Rochester has been placed in Bryn Mawr, Miss A. B. Bennett of London has at- tained the honor of “equal to the thirteenth wrangler’ at Cambridge tnis year. Miss Bennett 1s a Girton studegt. The signifi- ce of the success that has been at- taned by Miss Bennett in mathematical study will be appreciated if it’is borne in mind that there are only about hundreds of women students as t! thousands of men at’ the university. Baron Oppenhelm, a German who has been traveling and obserying @ this coun- try for several months, was asked what he thought of American women. “Fhat is a delicate subject, especially as I am not leaving the country and might get into trouble by discussing it. I can only regret that your American girls refuse to emi- rate to my country. The dmerican woman s truly a prodact of your climate, all Vigor and freshness and a gentle agEr siveness that makes her a delightful con trast to the monotonous sameness and less vivacious sister across the sea.” There is an ancient and more or less sub- stantially founded tradition that no woman can write a letter without adding a post: script of more importance than all the rest of the missive. A witty Frenchman con- tributes the latest story on this fruitful topic. One morning he received a long and charmingly written letter from a woman whose handwriting he failed to recognize. She was evidently acquainted with him, for she wrote of persons and things in which he was Interested. At the end of some dozen pages of feminine prattle came this postscript: “You will see by my new signature that I am married.” The wife of the next British ambassador, who was Miss Wilson of New York City, is not the only American woman now o consplouously placed in diplomatlc life at Washington. The. Baroness Hengelmuller is an American by bir:h, as one of the uests learned somewhat to her surprise. he had been llstening to the, conversation of the baroness, which is sald to be un- usually vivacious and interesting. "But what remarkably good English you Speak. the woman sald, leaning forward. “How remarkable for a forelgner.” “But it is not remarkable for me, Mme, Hengel- muller answered, “In view of the fact that I am a Milwaukee girl.” The wifé of the Spanish ambassador is also an_American. A woman who signs herself “Fat, Forty JULY 20,. 1902. A CHAMBRAY “MAUD MULLER" GOWN. and Fortunate” writes to the New York sad women who worry and wait all hours of the night to see their Inebriated sons or husbands stagger i at them for simply devoting themselves to those poor crea- tures, making the rest of thelr night comfortable as possible for them, I pat m: self, and {t is then single blessedness comes to the fore. I thank for what he has glven me—money enough and the blessed privilege of being my own boss. Nothing more trying than my lttle yellow dog; no worry ahout a clean dress for her; no music lessons; no school days to worry through; no little tamtrums, no plercing shrieks or screams when things go wrong and, best of all, no back tal e people Who have never had the companionship of a dog, be it mongrel or blooded, have lost half of their lives.” Nevertheless, it must not be forgoiten that there is a difference in dogs and that husbands are not all allke, whatever may have been saild to the contrary. Frills of Fashion. Novelty ‘dress fabrics include shot eta- mines and crenadines. The handsomest of the new combs of tor- tolse shell and amber are embellished with emall pearls and dlamonds. Linen gowns in the pretty new shades of reen, biue, pink and gray are made with ibson walsts stitched with white. For trimming linen lawn dresses Parisian modistes and tailors are effectively employ- ing linen passementerie in soft ecru shades. In some of the watch fobs there is a disk of leather at the lower end and the initials are mounted upon it {nstéad of belug sep- arate. One of the newest of the flower trimmed pelerines is of brown tulle, with green moss edgings finished with green satin bow and long ends. Belts for men and for wWomen come in pigskin, seal and in other leathers, with the plain harness buckle, or the swivel bit, for a clasp. Silks in black and white and blue and white checked effects are expected to be very fashionable in the fall for gowns and te waists. green hat trimmings, veils, bod ice, nd collar accessories and par sols are everywhere seen an pet! coats and gloves of the same color have recently appeared. Mercerized simmer cheviots are among the popular fabrics for general wear on the beach or in the mountains. They are to be found In pure white and & number of delicate colors. On some of the latest pisture and garden party hats are seen garlands of tea roses, pink geraniums or carnations combined with pure white guills, wings, or with an entire blackbird of §00d sise nes very top of the flat crown amon; and draperies of white mal chiffon. 'The hats are otherwise severe in effect, the edges bound in black velvet, a simple band of twisted lawn being laid under the roses. A stylish gown worn at a fashionable summer resort is made of dotted silk-warp Volle with Irish lace medailions introduced vertically on the very deep graduated skirt flounce. The high yoke is of the lace laid over pink chiffon, with matehing under- sleeves. A full blouse front Is shirred to this yoke and corresponding with it is a narrow hip yoke of lace to which the skirt is deftly shirred. This yoke extends up on the walst just enough form a small girdlé pointed at the top. » il Help the Auditorium. The Way to Do It is to Take Stock in It. The way to get stock—without paying anything for it—is to bring 50 Diamond “C” Soap Wrappers to the Diamond “C” premium store, 304 South 16th St., and ex- change them for a certificate which entitles you to a share of stock in the Auditorium Company. It also gives you a chance to win a prize in the Voting Contest, capital prize in which is $5,000 in gold. Certificates are IN ADDITION to the premiums regularly given with Diamond C <@ Soap YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PAR This famous National Park offers to the tourist and sightseer more novelties and curlosities ihan perhaps any other spot on earth. The stage ride from Monida |is the the through scenery hardly inferior to Park itself, and this ride is one of many enjoyments of the trip. The New Route to the Yellowstons is via the Union Pacific and Oregan Short Line Railroads to Monida, Montana, thence dally by palatial Concord Coaches of the Monida & Yellowstone Stage Company to all points in the Yellowstone National Park. Full information cheerfully furnished on application to City Ticket Office, 1324 Farpam Street. 'Phone 316, SCHOOLS. CHICAGO MUSICAL GOLLEGE Established 1867. College Bullding, 202 Michigan Blvd., Chisago, Nl Thalnf-lln most complete College of Music and Dramatic Art in The Ohicago Musical Bullding ls the Anest str sively to an Institution of 1ts Kin he system of instruction and courses represent the result of thirty-six years"ex; The faculty Is the stirongest ever assembled ‘numbers fifty-ive members. Sohool of Opera, Modern Languages. BOARD OF MUSICAL DIREOTORS: id Dr. Louls Falk F. Ziegfel Hans Yon Schitier William Castle Bernhard Listemann S, E. Jacobsohn Rudolph Ganz Herman Devries *Edmond Vergnet Felix weki Hart Conway, Director Schiool of Acting, . V. the world- te ho ereated the leading tenor roles e Barmson 404 Delliah &g Massenses Herodtads, or ‘;.n'i‘#‘. o Toloe o thie National Conservagory of Paria by appolatment of the has been added to the college faculty. 37th SEASON BEGINS SEPTEMBER 8. Now Hiustrated Catalogus Malled Free. CBRUUTEEANAS ) SRS ¢ (IRTINDW @ (ST AIOT & GRS I NOTE—Applications for ghe free and 160 partial Scholarships will be recetved until Aug. 18 BROWNELL HALL duates of five of the best known colleges of America included In eorp et Inatromee R Oaio, ALt and Modern Languages taught by women of extended resl: dence in Buropean' capitals, under the [nstruction of the best masters. T g P Outacor Sporis, SPIEHTIA Ky ImAAsTOm ‘hder Glreckion of Dro- dmits to college. ~Out-door spoi plen: y nnde: o fesaional iRstructor. MISS MACKAE. Principal, Omaba. lowa College, Grinnell, lm" DAN F. BRADLEY, President. B6th Year Opens September 17th, 10:2. FACULTY of thirty-five; well appointed LABORATORIES: MUSEUM; LIBRARY of thirty thousand volumes; Men's and Women's | GYMNASIUMS: ~ATHLEFIC FIELD. IOWA COLLEGE 8CHOOL OF MUSIC; special course in Organ and Churc) Music. IOWA COLLEGE ACADEM prepares for any college. For information address, J. H. T. MAIN, Dean of the Faculty. Kbl Hl, 2 3 Americanzi Conservat.ory e 1902—““Chittendep Hall,” Kearney, Neb.~1902 Dr. Chittenden will open his new board- ing school for girls, A BION BCHOOL, " Bept. 2 under 14, For turther inform Chittenden Hall, Kearney, Ne Fitegomitone Lackawanna' Railroad | A SKIN OF BEAUTY IS A JOY FOREVER Dl T, FELIX GOURAUD'S ORIENTAL CREAM, OR MAGICAL BEAUTIFIER 4 SOHICAGO NEW YORK ‘Three Trains Daily Rl e o QGEO. A. CULLEN Gen't Wastorn Puss'r Agent - 103 Adams Street, Chicago iame. " Dr. L. A Sayre vaid to & iae &y of the haut-tew i, yoe Lo T roso them. m. a3 the least I Hone: Por Druggists an . 8. and Euro B, HOPKING, #1 Great Jones B¢, N. Buy The Sunday Bee