Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, October 13, 1895, Page 10

THE OMAHA DAILY $%E: SUNDAY, OCTOBER 13 STYLES IN SLEEVES, A Perfeet Sleeve the Keynote of n ers clalin that sleeves are growing smaller, it 1s only at change is as yet visible to the naked eye. Then the newest sleeves, those with an up- | per puft and a long cuff that reaches above the elbow, fit formerly, in exaggerated Instances, even enugly for comfort, but the tops of sleeves the stiffened materials for holding them out, o square look. will continue to be worn, modish look is given to these by fitting the forearm part as tightly as comfort will al- low, and to accomplish this an outside seam is often added, ably, and just above the elbow the surplus fullness of the top i which creates at the sides the distinct effect of a pulr. be the stars of the season, and a point re- marked with the most elegant models wa that whether simulated or not the puft was placed some inchies above the elbow. shoulder evenness, b be discrectly padded. the pufr or some other device for holding the sizeve down at for heavy wool textiles. Where this sleeve is silk or velyet 1t fs often shaped at the wrist into two deep points, which may be Il‘mple, fancy or else inclose a fall of rich arapon, serge or any of the boucle wools &0 much worn, have the wrists long and straight and are sometimes made 50 snug at this point that they need to be closed with buttons, the summer, is a prime favorite for the ever convenlent silk blouse, in many of the new French coats and ulsters, with the wide band cuff in some rich con- trasting velvet or fur, but though this is by far the more elegant model of the two, a more popular jacket sleeve Is a great ugly mutton leg, called a melon sleeve, because the upper side I8 in several lengthwise gores. sleeve enters the armhole without fullness, the big gigot bulge shaping out below. stitched or piped, with the same cloth as the coat, or else with satin or velvet. and ribbon s a feature of many of the new evening sleeves. faily for diaphanous textiles, small ones be- ing woven into garlands which may festoon the whole sleeve. Again, in tiny bunches, they may loop up the airy texture all over. an oval chiffon was caught up in little cascades and fastened by knots of fuchfas in shading reds. wi :fl.en the sleeve shape a large short puff that ts fitting Marle Antoinette model, that reaches puft admits of varled decorations. of exceeding effectiveness and distinction had a scarf of misty lace drawn at the outside shirring each side to form a frill, bulging from the opening there will be doub- led frills of chiffon that gradually widen until that Is a fair imitation of butterfly wings sometimes a great jeweled button catching novel one has only its curious shaping by way of ornament, tume. NEW YORK, Oct. 10.—Although dressmak- thelr lower portions that the than too the arm more snugly re s big as ever, and there is a return to flects of most of them inclining to a broad, The old drooping leg o' mutton in one plece however, and a The newest gigots have this seam invari- laid in heavy pleats, ENORMOUS PUFFS, Indeed, these puft sleeves may be sald to At the this droops becomingly, but the lower line encircles the arm with unbroken and where the arm is thin or badly modeled the forearm section needs to Cotton batting made thinner by splitting s used for this. To promote the droop at the shouiders is often ehirred at . the top one och or more below the armhole seam; this, this point, Is especially necessary 0. Others. of a like cut for street wear, of cut COAT AND JACKET SLEEVES. The old-fashloned bishop sleeve, revived in They are also seen These are s sloped at the top that the The lengthwise seams are either double- A profuse and faitastic decoration of lace Flowers are also sometimes used, espec- AN ELEGANT BACK EFFECT. An adorable model made in this way was puff three-quarter length of rose chiffon over white; from top to bottom the The bodlee that went with these sleeves white satin, and against this severity rosy bells looked like great bouquets. For ball wear the beautiful brocades that imitate those of the Louis XVI. period have th the arm squarely, though the closely to the elbow, Is likewise seen. This last has only a lace flounce at the elbow, but the One model from the bottom to the shoulder, where it tled in. a great butterfly bow. Another but- terfly offect was made by splitting the bro- cade puft lengthwise from top to bottom and BUTTONS AND BOWS. A contrasting tint may face these, and at the shoulder they are shaped into a bow Other puft sleeves of evening brocade have down the fullness at'a central point, and one This last fs also a wing GRACEFUL HOUSE GOWN. sleeve, and It Is & pult that reaches just above-the elbow. The wing look Is made hy baving all the fullness, top and bottem, at back of the arm and catching it up at two points half way down, which gives It a fiylog look Well may the poot now compare his lady to an angel! 1f of chiffon, her arm draperies beat the alr In movement, Any one It oplnes with the poet that perchance (here's another wing targled In that fluffy thing styled a sleeve, But to conclude the sleeve list. New ones from tea gowns incline toward ploture effects and the most graceful of these are loose and flowing, with floating under draperies of la At Uio back the buttons of these pries buying them seem to be In keeping with tho welghty subject. In the way of interlining, dressmakers all geem to uae only a pleated cap of crinoline or heavy linen sewed In the arm- | hole, to keep out the tops of all sleeves on the mutton leg order. Those with the puft and lower arm plece in distinet sections sesm to have the puff entircy interlined with some crisp textile; the square stand off set of the DUt needing this. For trimming, and especlally for house sleeves, the new chameleon ribbons may be recommended. The beauty and magnificence of these rib- bons baffle minute description, but in design they are so blurred that they suggest nothing 50 much as water reflections through leaves and gorgeous flowers. One wide pattern to be used for belts and stocks looks exactly A STREET BODICE. as if a peacock had dragged his tail over a palette of wet paints and then entertained himself by beating it at random over tne ribbon. Ribbons with “Perslan” effects are also seen in rare varlety of quality and design, patterns being closely massed paim leaves in soft nut browns and rich jewel tints. BFFECTIVE RIBBONS, These are made up into the tall stocks with the huge bow at the back now so much worn, and may form part of the most somber street gown. In that event there is often a folded belt of the same and a twist around the bottom of the sleeves. If the sleeve is three-quarters length a big rosette finishes the twist at the back, this graceful and becoming cuff arrangement being as much in form as ever. For other hints for sleeve decoration see the designs shown. They represent some of the fashion’s latest fancies, carefully selected and from the best places. NINA FITCH. VELS. SHIPLOADS OF J Possessions of Ameriean Women Valued at $30,000,000. “If the occasion ever arises for the new American women to show true public spirit from the sale of their jewels alone they could bulld and equip twenty of the biggest battle- ships that ever destroyed commerce on the high seas. You have heard how much a battleship costs? Well, multiply that by twenty and you will reach the nearest esti- mate I can make of the value of the precious stones owned In our states.” This from a member of the most prominent firm of jewelers in New York, and when the reporter stared and gasped at the result of the sum In multiplication he only laughed and said he had drawn it very mild. “For Americans the most lavish pur- chasers of diamonds and pearls alone of any women in the world. “The taste for diamonds grows with in: dulgence, the more a woman has the more she wants, until it becomes, as is the case of one of our customers, who will spend a morn- Ing over our counters, shopping for tlaras, as coolly as If she was matching ribbon. She has found, like pretty Mrs. Yerkes of Chi- cago, that the way to be famous for her Jewels is to buy only of a certain kind. ““It was Mrs. Yerkes who first bought yellow diamonds, as Mrs. Astor had the best that could be done in a collection of white stone: and the Chicago lady’'s easket is reckoned worth $300,000. ““Her necklace Is long enough to be worn as a band to outline the top of a decollete evening bodice, cut over the shoulder court fashion, and sometimes she does away en- tirely with the right sleeve of an evening waist, substituting an epaulette, made all of dia- | monds, with strings of the gems hanging | down to her elbow. “‘Mrs. Willlam Astor has really never cared for other jewels than dlamonds, and only wears portions of her corbeille on very stately occasions, even her hands at other times showing but her wedding ring and a little circlet, of not at all valuable pearls, given her long ago by her oldest son. “He has added from time to time to his mother’s collection, that some day will go to his lovely wife. It now consisis of twenty- two pieces made up of nearly 10,000 almost flawless white diamonds set variously in gold, siiver and platinum, appraised at a round $1,000,000. “There are three diadems and a perfect crown, modeled from a circlet Josephine wore. The five necklaces are all coples from an- tiques, one from a royal Russian ornament, showing twenty of iis big stones pierced through the center, the most difficult feat for a lapidary to successfully accomplish. At great balls in her earlier days Mrs. Astor often wore her dancing dress looped with sprays of these gems and covered, as with a cuirass, from throat to waist, so huge were her two stomachers, but as hostess she wears only a few rings and decorative brooches. “The daughter-in-law of Mrs. Astor, sr., clasps her white neck with a thoatlet of ru- bies, and wears a wonderful littly hair orna- ment of a siugle huge ruby In a circlet of diamonds, the big red stone £ald to be the largest and finest ever taken from the Bur- mah mines. “The jeweler, who at Intervals polishes its setting, would, he says, at any time give $25,- 000 for one half its size. It is cut en cabo- chon, but Mrs. Jack Astor spends a great deal more money and enthusiasny/ on antique gold ornaments, collecting them for their own beauty. “Mrs. Twomby has a s|ncere American love for turquolse, her set rivaling that of Mrs. Arthur M. Dodge, whose watch, with all its complete works, is set into the hol- low of a huge true blue, egg-shaped stone, surrounded by pearls. “Mrs. Langtry, years ago, made turquoise fashlonable, when a certain royal person gave her a single necklace of them valued at £10,000. She afterward broke up the orna- ment and sold it, to defray her first venture on the stage, and Mrs. Twomby bought all but four of ‘the stones from a Bond street Jeweler, paying nearly the original price. Her American jeweler then bought, at the sale of the royal French casket, a pair of bracelets, dating from the relgn of Francis I, took out the diamonds and topaz, with which it was spangled, and set of six great fur- quoises, costing from $600 to $800 each. “Mrs. Alva Vanderbilt has the best col- lection of piuk pearls in the states, in rings and necklaces. “* “They are as blg as billiard balls,’ quoted one admiring young man, who saw Mrs. Van- derbilt in her great pearl necklace; the long strings looped up in a fringe about the front of her bodice, and her fine shoulders carry- ing, at the lowest estimate, $60,000 worth of these products of the oyster. “‘Her largest pearls, contrary to the fashion, she wears as ear screws; they are circled with a cord and true lover's knot of dia- each pearl alone worth 4,000 round American dollars. “It Is Mrs. Corneitus Vanderbilt who wears rings, as her hands are exceptionally pretty, and her necklaces are all big dog collars. One in alternating strings of pearls, diamonds Ilke sleaves come sometimes almost to the hem of the gown, and ome unique model had tl .:.lnut of the gown and sleeves being all A 1litlo satin sleove for a low evening frock that maidens with dainty shoulders are tak- fng to {a @ short untrimmed purt our time it Is exactly like the sleeve orn by the ladies of Napoleon's court—and t little larg: VALUABLE SUGGESTIONS. Here & fow hiuts on gemeral making and and opals, six rows in ail. each worth the income of three ordinarily prosperous busi- ness men. Mrs. Vanderblit, wherever ' she g9es, buys cpals in the rough or polished, and has them set o her fans, paper weights, In slze to that adorning the state crown of Sngland. Her Jewel box would probably fetch several hundred thousand, and Mrs. James Kernochan's emeralds alofle would bring as much. Only the empress of Russia has a finer collection, for Mrs. Kernochan made her pick from the Frech crown jewels. If you wish to gain some Idea of the passion women have for jewels, know that at the great French sale one American firm alone bid In $1,500,000 worth of ornaments. “Within two days they had sold off every article, of course at a resonable advance on the money invested. Numbers of the finest pleces went west, notably a necklace, sald to be the property of Maris de Medicl. That wag purchased for Miss Hanna Croker, now Mrs. Alexandre, at the snug sum of §35,000 “Mrs, Bradley Martin, who was there trying to rival Mrs. Astor's collection, bought a solid $100,000 worth of these jewels. and later, into the hands of Mrs. George gnuld. passed the unique green pearl, set for her in a ring. “One night at the opera she sat in her father-in-law’s box, and, after applauding Alvary in the forging song, looked down at her gloveless jeweled hand, to see that the pearl had popped from its setting. Now, even a Gould does not take the loss of a $6,000 pearl with equanimity, and the opera hous was literally examined with a microscope but the heirloom of the French queens was gone, and since then Mrs. Gould has been able to boast of having the only necklace of ash pearls In America. “So you see,” concluded the dealer in precious stones, “how large a portion of American wealth Bas been invested in this half barbaric love for brilliancy and color. Yet jewels will casily be turned into cash, as the French government discovered. Good diamonds alone always find a market, and the bigger they are the more they are coveted. As an example, there Is one firm in New York that possesses the biggest lump of pure carbon in the states. This is valued at $500,- 000, and nearly every day they have an offer for it. The wives of plutocrats are willing to lay down the money, all in cold cash, but the brilliant is not for sale.” AIR | DAUGHTER. KENTUCKY'S Something About Mary Anderson a Her Life Abroad. When Mary Anderson left the stage, says a London newspaper, Henry Abbey told her that if she succeeded in giving it up she would do something greater than she had yet achieved. Yet, though her career on the boards was a brilliant one, and though she retired from them when her fame was at its highest, the possibility that she may return rank, Minnie: Hawk s who has been Bonhced by the queen with'the Order of the (rown of India, and Mrs. Ron- 41ds, & well knows member of the Ameriean colony In Lon The duke of Saxe-Coburg- Gotha has confeered upon her the cross of the Order Pour erite, “for her kindness to struggling ymusiclans of all nationalities.” Outside of ,yorwen of imperial or royal perhaps the most ‘decorated woman of Europe. Hero 1s u lst of the orders or Bpnprs conferred upon her: Gold medal of Merit from the King of the Relgluns, 1879: Ladies’ Order of Benevolence from the king lof 8pain, 1831; gold medal with crown from Chel feigning duke of Saxe-Alten- berg, Germany,: 1882; Russian Red Cross for ladie from the emperor of Russia, 1884; Cross of Merit: foriArt and Sclence, from the relgning duke’ of ‘Saxe-Meiningen, Germany, 1886. She also possesses the decoration of grade of officer of the Grder of Bi Basto del Liber- tador, from the president of Ve ucla, 1887, Decoration of Officer d'Academic Fran- caise from the French government, 1858, Order of the Crown of Johore, from sultan of Johore, India, 1894, Several of these orders are set in brilllants and even without them they are handsome in the way of ornament. Ono reason of Mme. Hauk's great popu- larity is her versatility in that she sings with equal ease in all of her operatic roles in the Italian, German, French and English the languages. This, 1t is. gald, no other prima donna can do, BY WOMEN—FOR WOMEN. A Brin Which The only woman's golf club in America Is at Morristown, N. J. A woman's course has been attached to almost every golf link in the country, since the game became o popular, but at Mor- ristown the club was formed by women for women. it is officered and run exclusively by the gentler sex, who have proved liberal, discrect and sportsmanlike in all of the rul It 1s only when a woman cons:nts to “put him up” at the club that a man can enjoy any of the privileges. Then they are al- lowed to play when they please on a special course laid out for their benefit. All the smart set at Morristgwn, Madison Convent station and other fashionabie near-by rescrts are members of the club. Miss Howland ix president of the organiza- tion; Mrs. Twombly, who was the l:ading spirit in forming the club, is vice president; Miss Louise IMeld, secrotary; Mrs. Charles Bradley, treasurer; and Mrs. William Ship pen, recording secretary. The executive com- mittee is composed of such well known women as Miss F. L. Hopkins, Mrs. G. G. Frelinghuysen, Mrs. Louis Thebaud, Mrs. Luther Kountze and Miss Ballatine. Nothing less than fifty acres of land would satisfy these golf enthusiasts; the links, from start to finish, measure a mile and a quarter, over as difficult a bit of country as the most Inveterate golfer could wish. The ladics who SOME LATE EFFECTS IN SLEEVES. to the scene of her triumphs is very slight. Mary Anderson was educated in an Ursuline convent in Loulsville. Shd is a devout Cath- olic and all through her stage experience she practiced the duties of her religion very faithfully, At 17 she made her debut as Jullet in a local theater. Her fame speedily grew. Her extraordinary beauty has always had much to do with her successes, but she had talent, ambition and versatility. In the beginning she used to play in one week such wideiy different roles as Lady Macbeth, Jul- tea. In 1883 she went to England and.cap- tured the British public, winning a far greater success than in America. Then came the failure of her health, her farewell to the stage, and her marriage to Antonio de York family by that name. Nothing could have been more quiet and off hand than the simple wedding in a small Catholic church in_England, Mr. De Navarro took a place in Tunbridge there they go up to London frequently (it is only'an hour’s railroad journey), and they lead at home the most quiet, contented ex- istence imaginable. Nothing is needed to make life at their charming villa® on Fern- dale road an ideal of domestic bliss except the presence of children. There were rumors and separation, bascless as they were unkind. varro has said: could have taken me from my stage life ex- cept being so much in love with my husband. We had been in love for ten years, and I simply had to let the other things go and marry him.” Although they are very much Anglicized Americans now after their long stay In England, the De Navarros have by no means abandoned the idea of living In America again at some time in the future. ORDERS FOR WOMEN. Forelgn Powers Bestow Decorations L n th Falr Sex. Our government is far behind the Euro- pean powers in recognizing notable merit ln individual women. Abroad, for deeds of special heroism or devotion, they are rewarded with stars and crosses with which to decorate their frock fronts. Prussia has several decorations for women. The oldest Is the Order of the Swan, founded in 1440. Its object is the relief of Qistress generally. a swan engrayed upon it, and the motto is “God be with you.” The Order of Louise, named for Prussia’s most_beautiful queen, bestows its badges, of the first class, to women for meritorious ser- vice in nursing the wounded in war, of the second class, to women distinguished for phi- lanthropic work generally. The first woman who received the Iron Cross of Prussia was Miss Florence Lees, who was superintendent of the ambulance of the crown princess, now the Dowager Em- press Frederick. Miss Lees was an English- woman; she was with the Tenth Prussian corps before Metz. In France the Legion of Honor accords the reward of merit to men and women alike. It was founded by Napoleon I in 1804, Within a few years three women have been decorated with the button. A Maltese cross of white enamel, edged with gold and horn, on a scarf of violet rib- bon, Is the decoration presented by the Order of Sidonia, which was founded in 1871 by King John of Saxony in memory of his queen, It is designed especially for the re- ward of women's services in war. The shah of Persia haw conferred the Order of the Sun on several women, Mme. Mae- Mahon among the number. The sultan of Turkey has been very gen- erous in the bestowal of decorations, espe- cially honoring American women. Mrs. White- law Reid, for her generosity and benevolence to the sick in hospitaly when she was visit- ing in the cast, and Mrs. Charles Henrotin of Chicago, for the aid she rendered Turkey during the Columbian exposition.. For her ance to the Turkish representatives the sultan has made her a member of the Order smelllog bottles, her purse and card es, until nearly a hatful have been disposed of “Star sapplires are Mrs, Polter Palmer's favorite gems, along with some of the largest blue sapphires known to dealers. One that she wears as a pendant, oval shaped and swinging In & diamond circlet, is the seeend of Chéfakat. In sending the decoration the sultan couveyed through his mmister at Washington his sense of everlasting grati- tude. Other American women who count stars and crosses glittering with diamonds Among | thelr treasures are Lady Randolph Churchlll, iet, Meg Merrilies, Pauline, Igomar and Gala- { Navarro, a member of the well known New | Wells, for the sake of his wife's bealth. From | after their marriage of their disagreement | but such reports were as | Mrs. De Na- | “I don’t think anything The badge is of gold with | | scrutiny. had the laying out of the grounds Intended to make the course as difficult as possible and they have admirably succeeded. There is a deep hollow directly in front of the club house, where the first teeing ground 1s placed —this hollow goes by the name of the Devil's Punch Bowl, and to successfully brave its “‘hazards” 1s indesd a test of skill. The club house is one of the most charming In the country. It is modeled iu the old co- lonfal style, and has a great Dutch chimney rising up at the back of the building, which within has a huge fireplace with crane and andirons. These bright autumn afternoons the gatherings for afternoon tea are usually on the veranda, but a littie later, when the frosty days arrive, the Dutch fireplace, with its blazing logs, will be the attractive spot. The furniture is of mehogany and the hang- ings of blue and white. The walls are cov- ered with burlaps, while the beams are left | bare. Meibers write their notes on paper of a heavenly shade of blue, with “The Morris Jounty Golf Club” stamped in white at the head of each sheet. The star players of the club are M'ss Loulse V. Field, who has recently carried off a prize; Miss Whitney, who also took one with the net score of 53, Miss Wilic being second with a score of bS. Upon another occasion, Miss Annie Howland Lord won the ladies’ goif cup, Dresented by Mrs. Twombly, with a net score of 94. The prize 1s in the form of a loving cup which stands seven and cne-half inches high and measures five and one-fourth inches across the top. Upon the front of the cup is a well exe- cuted etching of a fleld scene, plcturing three golf players in the spirit of the game. Upon the back the name of the winner of the prize, with the date, is engraved. MOTHERS-IN-LAW, “Monatrous and Uncontradicted Libel” Upon the Affection of Woman, Judge Pryor of the common pleas court of New York gave utterance recently in a suit for divorce to the following remarkable state- ment: “During my observation, extending over many years, I have found that next to rum mischigvous mothers-in-law are the chief source of nearly all the matrimonial broils which come before the courts." This is the first tine, comments the New York World, that th: paragrapher of the comic papers has been judicially corroho- rated, and the remarks of the learned judge are diszgreeably important. It may be that his experience ig exc:ptional. We trust that it Is, for the mdthd¥-in-law has carried fo years a pretty ‘héavy load of popular odium. But to be claséed With rum as a mischie maker Is really a sweeping indictment. LIt is very diffeult to get at whatever truth there may be’ in he popular superstition about mothers:tn-law; but we dare say that if they had the Olearamce of statistics it would be found that in a vast preponderance of cases the mother-ladaw has been a self-sac- rificing and upgomplaining nurse, a wise counsellor and,&n Huobirusive ioSuence for good. ; That all mothetsin-law are by nature mis- chief-makers frof ‘(he moment their offspring are married wifl' not'stand the test of close It 18'a 'fonstrous and uncontra- dicted libel ugon ‘tHe conservatism and af- fection of wemahi,“Which has been exagger- ated by hack humorats\ into a popular hallu- clnation. There is scarcelya family circle anywhere in which some)patient widow may not be found who has relegated all her affections to the new generation and taken upon herself with the maturity of suffering many of the irritating responsibilitles of a home that would otherwisa make domestic life a load of little. cares. She s unsung, but we can safely put her against the misch! mother-in-law. Fash te: Nets and allovers of all descriptions will prove some of the strongest features of the lace business for fall. Black velvet hats will be the thing, the brim perhaps faced with satin, and buckles of steel and Rhinestones. Chiffons are still in high favor, and the season’s products have certaluly much to ree- ommend them, both as regards weave and whade. A tiny velvet muff in envelope shape is lined with yellow satin and trimmed with cascades of lace and short yellow ostrich feathers arranged as rosettes. The booeclay ia elther silk or “«ool is a popular matertal for demi-season wraps. skotch shows & Jacket of green cloth, bralded in green and blue nacary silk. Collarottes for theater and calling wear are so gorgeous that they are consplovous To make one strictly up to date an extrava The gant amount of brocade, far talls, feathers Jeweled trimming and lacs is neessary, The arched Marle Stuart bonnet has been revived, and now fn Paris a long cloik much like the “Mothet Hubbard" model has taken rank among new fashions. The Fronch woman, whoss sartorial tastes are so well cuitivated, contrives to look well in anything 4he elects to don. athers come in extra long plumes and extra short ones to meet the demand for this winer. — There are little ones no bigger than o finger, used to make a rim for a tiny | velvet turban, or to edge the wide brim of | & hat. The varlety in size makes it possi- ble (o fairly load a hat with them, each feather being used to the best adyantage. Marle Antoinette, Josephine, and even a suggestion of Elizabethan styles are appear- fog among the very elegant gowns for lat autumn and winter wear—on clal ocea- sfons, however 1 th turesque costumes, historl is the very lafest ph. taking the place of the style of brides’ and bridesmai The autumn headgeer is less flauntingly rich and much more picturesque be- coming in form than that seon recently, Velvet and felt, of course, compose most of the hats, but some dainty Kranch creations are made of taffets. Thus shirred hats have a peculiar old-time appearance and trimmed with tufts of feathers, alg antlque lace and bu which give t ¥ appearance. ! vefy fascin The beautiful Cleopatra shades in br brown, chestnut, golden, olive | {avana—a rich russet brow d all the | decp rods and dahlia dyes, are in hi | favor this autumn season, and Fren ara adding to these favored colors aniline mauves a new ‘“‘Pers that is merely a m more genersfly becoming than the magenta | dyes of a year ago. | Flowers will be worn on hats all winter, | and strange freaks of nature they represent If wo believe the tale they tell. They are nnde of velvet in all the fashionable colors | and the most artificial combiaations—shape, tinting, fashioning are unlike any flower of fleld, garden or hothouse. They avowedly are intended only to glve masses of color and they serve that p 3 Beautiful dahlias, orang Persian favorites, The tendency toward the use of gimp and galloon effects in var! s {8 becoming more and inore preval e trimmings ange from two and one-half to ten inches in width and are finlshed in both ! Vandyked borders. Some of these rich olors suggestive of autumn are the sliow marquise or escurfal patterns in silk | tace and chiffon or revealg a heavy | raised cord on each design. The devi the maierial on which they jut (he patterns in bold in are applied throwln n effects, reitel, The fur have, rth the most eicgant and expensive s of their winter stock, alskin, otter, mink and Persian lamb wraps oceupy central positions in the display windows, and a study of forthesming 05 18 the The | r attr tions | rettos, fichu-shaped trimmings, or cap: also made of fur of either a mitel or contrasting kind; oftener they ave of a frarent color and sort. Narrow fur border- matching these accossories will bo 1 on the skirt edge, as it is the aim of ners to render tha costume rich and luxurious with as little complication as pos- | sible. ing the bonnet on the head in high autumn winter winds strings are superior to | all other of fastening wh er. | This women are beginning to discover, and adopt them, particularly since fashion has netioned their once again. Velvat | rings are the mos becoming, and these may be as wide or as narrow as one eas straight ribbons or cut bias and made up with a bow to be held with pretty jeweled | pins. Black velvet 1% the most used, but the milliners show toques and bonnets with 'dtrings made variously of green, brilliant clerry, magenta and many other colors, on medels made of black or dark green velvet. Fe nine Notes, Lady Habberton, the fnventor of the divided skirt, is advising female servants to wear knickerbockers, Sarah Bernhardt has turned philanthropist and presented the Jardin des Plantes in Paris with two orangoutangs. The incomparable Sarah christened them Paul and Virg Mrs. H. C. Cosgrove of Joplin, Mo., hao or- gan'zed a lead mining company. All the offi- cers and stockhoiders are women. The labor is done by men. One of the mines being op- erated by the company is called “The New J. Maycock prepared a paper for opathiv Medical society of the state York, which recently convened in New York City. The evil influences on the narvous system of the bustling life of busin men and women wWas condemined. The bic 11 doing great good for nervous, overwork people. = d Mme. Marchesi recently celebrated at Pari the forticth anniversary of her carer as toacher. Her first activities began with® a Vienna conservatory. On the death of her daughter she left for Parls, which she has made her home. Mme. Marchesi his turned oat a lzige pumber of finished singers, among whom were many Americans. Miss Alice Baifour, the sister of Mr. Arthur J. Balfour, is to give us a book on the tour which she made in South Africa. It will be named “Twelve Hundred Miles in an Ox Wagon 1 will bave illustrations from Misn Balfour's own drawings. Miss Balfour and her party journeyed from Cape Town to Salis bury, thence to the coast at Beira, and home by Zanzibar. It will be news to most people that Mme. Calve was first considered a contralts. This fact is disclosed in an interview which the distinguished prima donna recently had with Marc Blumenburg, in the course of which she also stated that her father was French and her mother Spanish, and that, despite the biogravhers, she never was at the Paris con- servatolr Interesting stories are being told of the mother of the minister to France, Whitelaw Reid. Just previous (o her death, at the ad- vanced age of 91 years, she took a lively in- terest in national affairs. A pretty incident is related that at an entertainment given in her honor a few years ago she was led up to 2 sofa draped with the American flag, but de- clined to sit upon it, declaring the flag was made for nobler purposes. The very next debutante of importance at the Grand opera at Paris is a Hosion woman, Frances Wood, a pupil of Charles R. Adams, who, if there is any truth in report, has come back to America for the arrangement of that last inevitable detail necessary for a debut on the Paris stage, where so many American girls have already made successes, and where it is a tradition that Jhe debutante pays in one way or another for her first appearance, Princess Holenlohe, wife of the chancellor, has at last received permission from the Rus- sian government to hold for life the estates in Russia that came to her from her brother, Prinee Peter of Sayn-Wittgenstein. The Rus- sian law insists that all aliens shall either live upon the land they own in Russia or sell it. Alexander III would make no concessions {0 the Hohenlohes, and a part of the estales was sold at a sacrifice, but Nicholas 11 has proved more tractable. Lillian Russell's bicycle, a dainty machine with gold crossbar and sky-blue tires, has been on exhibition in the window of a bicyele store in Boston, likewise the fair rider, when she ‘takes her constitutional on the 'wheel It must be admitted by her most enthusi- astic admirers that the short skirt with leggings, which is her riding costume, does not diminish—au coutraire!—the effect of embonpoint which has caused so much happiness to the prima donna and her dress makers, and whieh she has striven so hero- ically to reduce. Miss Zellia Citti Is the musical name of a pretty woman itn New York who, from a very small and single handed start in lite, has built up an extensive business. She employs & number of experlenced needle- women in the manufacture of eusigns, jacks, burgees and signal flags for yachts. Some five years ago, In & manner purely accidental, she made a fsg for a yacht, the neatuess of which attracted attention and led to other orders. Her fame as a flug maker spread widely and rapidly, and she opened a little shop on South street with a small asslstant, which has grown into a blg one, and she has score of bands engaged the whole year around. DRESSES OF A DUCHESS Bridal Tinery of an American Heiress About to Wed a Duke. MISS VANDERBILT'S TROUSSEAU A MARVEL A Do en Natlons Magrnifcent ana Carte Contributing to lanche Orders. NEW YORK, Oct. 10.—Only one week be- fore the public announcen suelo Vanderbilt's betrothal to the duke of Marlborough was announced, plans were on foot at Marble house for the what undoubtedly will be the most magnifi- cent trosseau any woman, duchess not ex- capted, ever recelved from her mother. At least it is Mrs. Vanderbilt's ambition to pro- vide her davghter with a wardrobe so superb that every article will become an heirloom. Just as war ship builders keep on file the power and dimensions of all the record breakers owned by other nations, so Mrs Vand:rbilt po s exact lists and deserip- tlons of all the famous modern bridal outfits. She knows just what the respective daughters of Mrs. Astor, the duchess of Coburg, Mrs. . Mrs. Bradley-Martin, Mrs. Jay Gould nd even the Lady Grosvenor, daughter of the duke of Westminster, received in the way of clothes at their weddings, and her effart will ba to surp: e, and instructions by it out iberia, Venezuela and Alaska the furs will ba supplied. Paris and Vienna con- tribute the gowns and hats, while Brussels, New York, London, Venice, Dublin and even Yokohama are all going to be the richer for this new Anglo-American alliance. QUICK WORK IN PARIS, As there would be no time for a shopping expedition fo Parls, Mrs. Vanderbilt has viven (he majority of orders by cable, and a week after the engagement was public property a skillful, trusty French woman caume over, bearing a big box full of samples and drawings. These were sent by the Paris houses of the Rue de la Paix, Rue,Castilogne and Boulevards Malesherbs and des Capucines, where Mrs. Vanderbilt is a valued and reg ular patron. These are all little shops, each dealing in a speciality. At one only corsets silk petticoats are made; another supplies eilk and linen shirt waists, and there are anctums where bridal underwear alone Is made by order, or where gloves, wedding s or neck decorations are treated in per- fection of detail. At all thy places Miss Consuelo Van- derbilt has shopped, and in wax are kept exact reproductions of her head, figure, feet he s well as a decription of her oloring, ht, carrifage, ete., g0 that every article of dress can be prepared without a singie try on, yet guaranteed to fit. Miss Vanderbilt is a joy to the French artiste. Ste is a tall, typical Amerlean girl, with a greyhound waist, supple, rounded and long-throated, as a Leley portrait. Her head is small and weighted with masses of wavy her shoulders slop graciously, her e oval, and 'uer taste and sweet temper so compelling that even Rouff, that independently autocratic, sharp- tongued genfus of head gear, before whom even princesses tremble, but obey, is unquali- fie r admiration and civility to the American heiress. MAGIC CABLES. For a week Mrs. Vanderbilt, her daughter (hat agent, with the samples, were clos- cted in profound conc'ave, and every day by cablo an order reached some one of thase Paris shops, bearing that magic word carte- | blancne, The firs* order went to a dealer in hand- kerchlefs. Two dozen perfectly plain white ones were sent »t once to a famous convent far out on the Rue St. Honore, of cloistercd nuns, noted for their incomparable embroid- ery. ' In this convent the nandkerchiefs for tho young empress of Russia’s trossean were decorated. Ivery handkerchief has a special design for its ornamentation. Some of them will have rich, ol bits of Valenciennes lace worked into the Itaen, amid wreaths of lilies- cl-the-valley, Miss Vanderbilt's favorite ower. In some instances the borders and in- itials will be done in drawn work, and em- broidered over. Occasionally will appear a great C, lily twined, Consuelo, written out in Miss Vanderbiit’s own graceful chirography, but over name and initial always is em- broidered the duchess coronet, large or small, and frequently the Marlborough coat of arms. AN HEIRLOOM. The wedding handkerchief is a gift of the duke, a wonderful historical picce of Vemice point, given Sarah, the famous duchess, by no less person than Queen Anne herself, and sed by the bride of every Marlborough duke ever since. The precious plece is to be mounted anew on a tiny heart-shaped center of the finest linen lawn ome of the lesser moucholrs are white, broched over with wes rose buds, or bits of pink linen, with big medallions of bla lace let into them. A few are diamond- aped, white, sprinkled with Infinitesimal blue stars, or round with a white lace C embroidered down in the center, and a wide frill of lace on the edge. In all, there are ten dozen, not one over nine and a half inches square. Of the seventy-five gowns Included in the trosceau, not one will be sent out with two pairs of its own particular stockings. The majority of this foot gear are of silk, running through every known varlation of ‘tint and de. One pair is powdered with silver and iridescent paiettes, sewed on in escent forms, or figured over with finely cut steel beads. There are lovely cnes in flesh tinted sitk, =0 embroidered in gold threads and imi- tation jewels as to represent the gorgeous anklets of easfern wom:n. Black ones in spun sllk are open worked nearly to the knee, with lacings of gold and colored siik threads. Somelimes in black and white (he open work 15 nothing less than finest lace. Such are the white wedding stockings, having Brussels lace let in over the instep, the lace showing a coronst in its meshes. Nothing could be more charming than a set of stockings ¢n ) bluette blue silk, showing elaborate delft blue clecks, and another pair in blue, with a flight of gray and ashite swallows over the instep, are for wear with an elaborate blue dressing gown of thick creped silk, lined with gray satin and dear little heelless, pointed buskin slippers made of blue silk and blue leather, laced and tled with silk cords, TOILING NUNS. Tha orders for under linen, corsets and silk petticoats are sufficient (o almost enrich the makers for life. Nearly every piece of linen ses, on its completion, to’ the aforemen- tioned convent to recelve the coronet and in- itials, keeping twenty nuns laboring far into the nights. Everywhere full frillings of Valenciennes are used on the lawn and nain- s00k, as soft as chiffon. For years and years Mrs. Vanderbilt has been collecting this lace for her daughter's trousseau, buying none but the oldest and richest products of the town of Valenclennes. For much of it a guinea a square inch was paid at London lace auctions, and it even overflows into the beautiful corsets of bro- caded silk, every pair of which Is made to harmonize with the p:tticoats, sixty in number and fairly stiff with damasked splen- etors, All' the corsets ara short and very pliable. So svelt a figure as their future wearer needs no cruel clasps of steel. Indeed, thoy are scarcely more than gorgeous little belts.” The bridal stays of white peau de sole, em- bossed in wredths of lilies of the valley, are caught in froat by four gold jewel-s:t clasps in the shape of double C's, liced behind with gold-tipped ribbons. The list Includes stays for every occasion, from court balls to the hunting ficlds; bicycle corsets, tco. And then petticoats, one of cardinal silk, overlaid with a whole peon of black Chan- il lace, caught down at Intervals by em- broldered =prays of popples; another is of white brocade, wreathed in Mecklin lace flounces. THE GREAT SECRET. Not unt!l she moves up the alsle on her way to the altar will anyone but Mrs, Van- derbilt, hor daughter and the designer of the wedding gown have the smallest inkling of what it is to be. Rumors fly thick as migrating swallows, but po one can absolutely speak with authority. It was eho both the design and fabric, from samples and drawings submitted Mrs. Vanderbllt at Marble House, and this much the lady admits, that it required the combined genlus of two great French Louses to produce what she wanted. Mrs. Vanderblit's friends say that it is undoubted!y to be a splendid affair in white nt of Miss Con- | collection of | lace, knowing her great love of this fabrio, and that for the trosseau have been ordered two surpassingly glorious white lace ball gowns, Indeed the bride to be has a marked love of white, and the tint next in her favor is a peculiar tone of golden pink. Chiet among the wardrobe glorics s a dinner dress ot creamy Bengal satin and a remarkable dancing dress made of many thick masses of illusion, one tint under another, so placed | that the general result s of an opalescent summer's sky at dawn. It would be hard to divide impartially one's enthustasm be- tween the tollets proposed and the morning, bedroom, lounging an® tea gowns of lace. A great many are of quilted brocaded Jap- anese crepes, of silk crepons, striped in lines of satin, showing slecves to reach the floor, *Mry cataracts of lace falling from the shoulder, and amid all these draperies the | sleeves proper appeer, fitting the arm close and wrinkling down to the elbow, to be | caugat by little gold linked studs. GORGEOUS FURS Already some of the furs have arrived, in three huge cedar-lined chests of thelf own, containing the most, elaborate sot of sables ever prepared for one woman. The sleighing set includes a cloak so long that the feet ean bo wrapped in its skirts, and lined with mole skins, - Then there is a barrel muft, a cap and glgantic collar, in which the whole head can be hidden. Be- sides, there Is a carrlage cape of gable, A boa, reaching to the knees, of sable talls, a ealling cape, a skating jacket and a carriage robe lined with rich corn flower blue. In addition to the sables are sots of seal skin and most costly of all the fur garments, chinchilla opera_cape, falling from neck to heels and lined with rosy satin. Among these fur things was sent a curiously bes tiftul divan robe, made of cider down, un- plucked from the duck’s skin and pierced artfully together like any pelt. It is bor- ered with feathers from the duck’s throat, in the dried skin and the whole of it weigha but a few ounces. Of the twelve tailor dresses ordered from London and Viennese firms, a suit of rich russet damson cloth will probably be worn for the going away gown. This Is lined with rosy purple satin. Its coat opens over a bag front of cream lace and the hat, rather small, of braided autumn gren felt and velvet, i3 trimmed with tufts of black, gold and purple pansies Among all theso suits, not one of black will b: found. Tt is Miss Vanderbilt's super- stitition that black gowns fn a trosseau bring one fll-luck. Never in her short, bright young life has sho worn a black dress, and to begin her new and brilliant career with one such frock in her wardrobe would, she fecls sure, bring her unexpected misery. Not even ona of her three bicyele suits are black. In green, brown and a curios shade of what the Loadon taflors call donkey gray, these pretty cose tumes are_dane. NEW YORK SHOES. Two New York makers received the orders for forty-five pairs of shoes, ranging all the way from doubly-dressed moose hide fishing boites sauvage, reaching neatly to the hips, water tight and meant for use in the Scotch and Norway salmon streams, to the remark- able wedding slippers. These exquisite pan- toufles are of white satin, with ivory heels; showing great erowned C's in brilliants on cither toe and a tiny edging of white lace, crimped and stiffened with minute brilliants frilling their tops. The generous mother of this future duchess not only supplies all these things, but the wedding fan as well, its white lace alone cost- ing $1,000, and mounted on pearl, the guai stick showing the name “Consuelo” in dia- mon Also has she given her daughter a full cscritoiro set, in clephant skin and gold mountings, ono item of which is a case, hold- ing five books, bearing in gold script the daughter's name, Blenheim Castle. The books are for engagements, visiting lists, charities, accounts and checks. Inside this last the checks are beautifally engraved with the crowned initials C. M. As box by box the wonderful trousseau arrives, the contents are laid forth in two rooms, devoted to this almost royal ward- robe, and, the day before a corps of expert packers come to prepare it for shipment again over the sea, Miss Vanderbilt whll give a little morning reception to girl friends and exhibit her toilets. Then it is she will break up her lovely sefs of silver tollet table things, her collection of desk fixtures, books, pic- tures and even girlish jewels, to bestow a keepsake on every friend. HUMPHREYS’ Dr. Humphreys' system dlffers from all other schioots and kinds of medigines, belng ONE SPECIFIC FOR ONE DISEASE. Dr. Humphreys' Manua) (mafled free) tells abon all the Speeifics and Diseases they cure, We ean dwell upon but one or two ata time— they are all good. RHEUMATISM Js caused by Urle Aeid in the blood. The zcute atwack 18 preeipitated by Cold, Dampness, Rich Foods, or Liguors. Dr. Humpliroys® Speettic No. 15 acts direetly on the Kfineys, opening the clogged ducts: the pent up secretions pass off, the blood fs cleansed, and the cure is made auickly and a From the first “twinge" the worst cimwe of gout No. 15 curexs. “77” FOR COLDS. 1t you will use care in dress, avold u exposure, and susplefon of a Col “77" eurcs Colds, Palny and Sore Throa nting Po cossary slightest ral Prostration. Gen n cold that fons and all A Tudize 6t Stomach and billousness are cured by Dr. Hum- phreys Speettic No. 10, SKIN DIS ma. Ervsipelas, Hives, 8alt Rhenm, ail yleld qulekly'to Specific No. 14. Small botties of pleasant pellets fit your vest poeket; sold by druggists, or seat on recelpt of e five for $1.00. Humphreys' Medieing 113 William st., New York. . % Air- on all socinl occosions., You cannol go To the opera, jgwithout gaining 2 whiff of IAL RDLE AZALEA 5.' delicu’fg flowery, refreshin: and lastin For sale by druggists only. IMPERIAL CROWN PERFUMERY (0, SAINT LOUIS, MEYER BROTHERS DRUG CO.,AGENTS Two new odors, IMPERIAL cROWn ALSOTRY (wzoomc BEL! PEACH BLOW. OPIUM :: MORPHINE WABIT DR. 8. 8. COLLIN PAINLESS OPIUM ANTIDOTE ORIGINAL AND ONLY GENUINE REMEDY, “THERIAKI" Book Free. Discovered in 1868. “To all sullerers of Brrors v”l'l;‘ v o 4 v.'ml“ Bicnl mullstriotly fdeatlal. Ci EUATAD- Teed CRIfor wiite. Be,LOB 1878 N. 16t St FLlia \